6/30/11 No Surfing: 1-3ft
There was a minor bump up in NW wind swell that sort of sparked my interest this morning. I probably could have found some waves at either Emma Wood or harbor. They would have been average at best and since I’m still hurting a bit I decided to let more time pass. I would rather be healed up for when things start to cook then keep hurting attempting to grovel.
6/29/11 No Surfing: 1-2ft
With very meager conditions and finding myself back on the injury list I decided it best to take a day off.
6/28/11 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time In Water: 15mins
Waves Surfed: 3
Although on the small side Emma Wood was fun as fuck today. So why you ask did I only surf for 15 minutes? Sunday night I pulled or strained a muscle in my upper right thigh. I’m not a physician so I can’t tell you the exact muscle. All I know is that it was kind of sore that night. Monday while surfing River Mouth it was bothering me a bit thus hindering my total performance out put. This morning from the first wave I was hurting. By the time I took off on my third and last wave of the session I was unhappy with the level of pain I was feeling. Now I probably could have pushed it for a complete session, but I was not about to do myself a serious injury out of a minor inconvenience for waist to chest high average Emma Wood. The last time I pushed an injury too far in the water it was my back, this past fall and that ruined my entire early NW swell season. Looks like conditions are going to be small the next few days which will allow me to sit out and heal up a bit.
6/27/11 AM Session: 2-3ft, River Mouth
Time In Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Lindsay woke me up bright and early and we rolled down to a less then stellar looking Ventura Harbor. No one was out at River Mouth and it looked as though there were a few barrels to be had. Conditions were a bit shifty and the good ones were few and far between. None the less I managed to snag some really fun tubes.
6/26/11 PM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time In Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Thanks to a short day handing out FRS, God bless the summer solstice festival, and a very frothy Lindsay I was able to snag an evening session. After car surfing every where we settled on semi blown out bowly chest high Emma Wood that was far from fun. But I guess its always good to get in the water. Lindsay was super pumped cause she had not surfed in a while. I got a few junky ones, somehow I managed a decent left barrel, but other then that I have to write the session off as exercise.
6/25/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, River Mouth
Time In Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Chunky, dumpy, lumpy, washy, throw in a little back wash, some adverse NW wind and NW swell and it lead to a closed mess of moving water. I drove down and if I drive I surf. That’s the rule, besides I saw a few good ones and even a barrel or two. Turns out the barrels although super hallow were impossible to get into and with all the backwash and lump riding the open face was as challenge as well. Still I managed to get a few good nuggets, but overall I could have easily spent the morning in bed.
6/24/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr, 20min
Waves Surfed: 24
Another morning of super fun surf courtesy of minor combo swell action. New Jetty had some rather fun glassy chest to head left and right bowls with a very light crowd. I snagged a ton of great waves although a bit sluggish from a shit show of a night at the Wild Cat. Hey it was Thursday night, the best night of the week to party in Santa Barbara and everyone was out. I pounded two FRS cans and it got me through the session. I had one really fun barrel and a couple of big airs. Good times.
6/23/11 Am Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time In Water: 1hr 15min
Waves Surfed: 18
Lindsay had called the night before saying she wanted to surf in the am. Truth be told I was not planning on a surf this morning due to a lack of swell. I left it to her, if she called me I was down and if not then I was going to sleep all day till I had to go sling drink. The girl woke me up at 7am from a rather strange dream actually and I checked the buoys. Sure enough there was a tad bit more swell. When we pulled up to the harbor there were definitely fun looking lefts and rights all over the place although a bit on the smaller side. I was not super pumped but after getting a few waves began to froth. It was like Newport and the conditions were perfect not even a drop of water out of place. I was totally glad I woke up for it. Thank you Lindsay.
6/22/11 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Nothing on the buoys, isn’t being a surfer in the 805 during the summertime grand? Well at this point its only about two months and two weeks till Rincon breaks again.
6/21/11 No Surfing: 1-2ft
More nonexistent conditions left me going on a late evening hike up in the hills above Montecito rather then wasting the gas to go grovel 1ft windy miserable Cstreet.
6/20/11 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Severe lack of swell and a bout of getting black out drunk at the Wild Cat kept me out of the water today. Instead I went up to the valley did a little wine tasting, stopped by Ostrich land and Nojoqui falls. I basically relived the One Perfect Day Blog but by myself this time.
6/19/11 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I had church in the morning then work the rest of the day. From the looks of things on the cam I did not miss much anyway.
6/18/11 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time In Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Minimal NW wind swell and just some background south left things a bit on the slow side this morning. New Jetty served up some weak waist to chest high peaks with one random overhead bomb south set that I luckily was able to finagle the third on of. It was far from epic but Lindsay and I made the most of it. I was surfing rather well and on my last wave stuck an air off the take off then comboed three big turns and a end section gaff to finish it off. I don’ t think I was going to see any better than that this morning so I called it a day.
6/17/11 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Stanley’s
Time In Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 14
One should always go with his initial instincts. When it comes to surfing I have no idea why I always second guess them. Today was another case of false hope in an attempt to ride a point break. I had very little gas in my car and ate up all my time running between Rincon, Little ‘Con and Pitas. Finally I settled on less then stellar Stanley’s when I should have just trucked it to New Jetty. I did managed one proper backside barrel and on frontside larrel. Still at least I am getting wet.
6/16/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Stanley’s
Time In Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Ok, I blew this morning I should have been at River mouth which from what I gather was pretty much all time. I was not even really planning on surfing this morning. For the past two days I have had this group of Jersey girls staying at my apartment (Thank You Cory!) and of course they had a Chris Lisanti mini adventure tour. Every tour includes a night at the Wild Cat. That was last night and although I did not get sloppy I still had a few. At 8:30 both my boy Ryan and Bobby B were calling me claiming I had to get down for a surf. My time was limited leaving me only able to go as far as Emma Wood. Luckily there was still plenty of NW wind swell and Stanley’s was doing its back wash wedgy closed out thing I love. It was a bit too high to surf the right off the break wall but the reef was going off. I had a sick left barrel that more then made my morning. I love Stanley’s even if they don’t let you park in front of it anymore forcing the bullshit walk from Hobsons.
6/15/11 AM Session: 4-6+ft, New Jetty
Time In Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
A stronger pulse in a steep nw wind swell combined with a rising south swell turned New Jetty into a mess of boost-able close outs, gnarly wedges, walled out eight wave close out bomb sets, and even a few south sets that you could slam three to five turns on. It was a fucking free for all, but with side shore/offshore winds I was not about to complain. I first got out and there were about four guys on it. With in a half hour there were forty with not too many worthwhile waves coming in. Unfortunately I was playing hurt stupidly injuring my hand the previous night on city college campus in a weak attempt to smith grind this ledge on my skate board a bit intoxicated. I always have been a good decision maker. Still I got my share of super fun ones and even landed a huge BS air revers and a big FS air reverse as well. Imagine if I did not hurt my hand?
6/14/11 AM Session: 3-5ft, New Jetty
Time In Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
A serious lack of motivation had me slacking this morning. A small jump up on the buoys had me give it a shot. Next thing I know Im standing on the dunes looking a super fun combo swell peaks at New Jetty, glassy, head high and only a few guys out. Well it did not take me much time to throw on my suit and jump in the water. I was joined by my friends Bobby B and Gordo, both happily married with kids, thus helping to restore my faith in relationships. All I can say is I had a ball and surfed amazing as well. What a session. Everyone was just going off and super stoked to be out there. As depressed as I was on both Sunday and Monday that is how stoked I was today. A good surf always puts things in perspective.
6/13/11 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I was hoping to get some water time in today but the meager surf conditions did not warrant the gas expenditure.
6/12/11 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I had church in the morning and FRS the rest of the day. It was small anyway.
6/11/11 No Surfing: 1-3ft
Promoting energy drinks is a lot more work then I ever expected. Today was a 12 hour day, 8am-8pm.
6/10/11 AM Session: 1-3+ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Day three of the FRS Santa Barbara Tour had us not starting till noon thus allowing me to go for a morning surf. Of course the surf had gone small leaving me very few options. After much debate about even paddling out I managed to find a few terrible waves at C Street and I think we all know how I feel about C Street.
6/9/11 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Another ten hour day courtesy of FRS meant now surfing.
6/8/11 No Surfing: 3-4ft
Started the FRS gig today and it took up the majority of my daylight hours.
6/7/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Zuma Beach
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
I love Zuma. Its one of my favorite waves in LA. Sure its nothing more then heavy closed out glorified shore break, but I think by now everyone should know that is right up my ally. Did I mention the backwash is sometimes bigger then the wave your paddling for? The place can amplify just about any south swell in the water. I checked Ventura Harbor early and it was looking doable but rather meager for my personal taste. I knew my buddy Kevin was going down there and gave him a call to hitch a ride. We cruised to Zuma and it was chest to head high and super punchy. The wind was a bit onshore but it looked boostable to me. As usual when I am at Zuma my froth meter goes berserk. I tore on my suit and was out there for a boost and barrel fest. Then after an hour it glassed off, but got super lully. Still there were some choice nugs to sink your teeth into. I was having a ball till some local decided to sit right on top of me even though there were plenty of peaks for everyone. I tried to paddle away but the dude kept following me. Finally I was just plain over it, stuck a backside air reverse and called it a day. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it angry local with all your super cool fly aways.
6/6/11 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 24
I woke up later then I would have liked this morning thanks to hanging out with my roommate watching “Joe vs the Volcano” till 3am, great movie by the way and in my opinion one of Meg Ryan’s best performances. I got up around 9am and checked the report and noticed it was offshore on the Cstreet cam. It did not take long for me to spring out of bed and cruise down south. I got to the Harbor where it was waist to chest high and offshore with clean little peaks scattered up and down the beach. River Mouth looked a bit shiftier then I would have liked for the size, while New Jetty was a bit more conform. It was a bit weak, but very playful allowing for a much needed good time in the waves. Too bad the water got cold again and the crowd a bit thicker then I would have liked. It is summertime after all. Regardless I still got my share. there were plenty of peaks so all I did was move in the opposite direction of the crowd.
6/5/11 PM Session: 3-5ft, Dredge
Time in the Water: 2.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
I got out of church and had four missed calls from all my Ventura friends. I knew there was going to be some minor bump up in wind swell but I just figured I would nonchalantly cruise down to Emma Wood on high tide. I called back my boy Ryan and he was frothing on Dredge. Ryan rarely is stoked on anything so if he was pumped I knew I had to get down there. Sure enough it was solid chest to head high with the occasional bigger set with very nice long right hand lines. Some were easily peeling for 75 to 100 yards, an anomaly for Dredge. There were about six guys on it and some slight cross chop from the SW wind. I got out there and for the first hour it was a bit bumpy and just when I was about to bag it the wind died out and things glassed off. For the next hour and a half it was a playground. I had at least four that I nailed no less then nine turns on. I would have surfed longer but I was exhausted between all the paddling, surfing and walking back up the beach. What a great day of surfing.
6/4/11 PM Session: 1-3+ft, River Mouth
Time in the Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
I was not going to surf today. The swell was way down and the weather was miserable. It was raining. It does not rain in Santa Barbara this time of year. Fog yes, rain no. At about 5pm I got stir crazy, checked the buoys and noticed a small spike in the swell. I ran down to the harbor and found some inconsistent waist to chest high lefts. It was pretty slow out there but all I can say is that the sand is set up perfect right now for a good south swell.
6/3/11 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Thursday night out downtown was epic and I ended up not getting to sleep till 4am courtesy of a new compendious friend. By the time I woke up in the am it was 11 and all the reports pointed to it being windy and small. I had work to do over at J7 and decided to pass on the surf.
6/2/11 Pm Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time In Water: 1hr 40min
Waves Surfed: 21
I was on my way back from Ventura after the Leo session and I noticed there was a solid amount of wind swell filtering through. Sure enough Rincon had a fun waist to chest high wave coming through the cove with no more then ten guys on it and plenty of waves. The water had miraculously warmed up as well. Its funny I surfed Rincon with John on Sunday and I was all angry the whole time, blaming it for my problems. This day I actually had a really good time. I’m not going to blame surfing for my failed relationship anymore. Surfing is what I do and what I love to do and I am really sorry that I let some lying, cheating whore make me believe that it was the root of all evil. All I can say is good riddance to bad rubbish. I’m putting my efforts back where they belong, surfing waves and having a good time.
6/2/11 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Leo Carrillo
Time In Water: 1hr 20min
Waves Surfed: 10
I went down south with the idea of surfing New Jetty, but I was highly unmotivated. Then my boy Kevin called me up and said he was going down to Leo and he would drive. I was instantly sold. Turns out there was still some solid south swell rolling in with some NW wind swell mixing in also. The crowd was a thick 35 guys and with only one real take off zone that gets hectic. For whatever reason no one was pressing the peak and Kevin and I had our pick of any wave we felt like taking. Unfortunately the water was 50 degrees and after just over an hour I was border line close to getting hypothermia.
6/1/11 Am Session: 2-4+ft, Gold Coast
Time In Water: 1hr 10min
Waves Surfed: 18
Ironically I got up early today to get the best conditions possible. As it turned out I just ended up car surfing all morning not getting in the water till right before 9am. Truth of the matter was I was about to bag surfing all together, but as I was cruising by the Goldie I saw this set of three lefts double up and go square. It was borderline shore break, which happens to be some of my favorite surfing conditions. My first wave I almost stuck a full rotation frontside air reverse. On my second I got shacked off my ass and came out and on my third I got a double barrel. After those three something happened and the spot slowly began to turn off to the point where I almost had to paddle in at the end. Whatever I still got properly barreled.