What can I say about the month of April for surfing other then it was yet another month full of let down and frustration. After a terrible winter I still had a shred of hope that it might be a good wind swell season. Sometimes I get my best waves in the hard gail force north westerlies. Wind swell with its shorter period allows certain mysto or novelty spots to come alive for a brief moment. There are literally dozens of spots up here that only break once or twice a year if at all. When they do break it is always a treat to surf them. Of course this year with the exception of one very weak ass surf at Summerland Beach there were none of the above mentioned sessions.
I did my best to stay wet sandwiching in surf time between my work and hectic party schedule. Here is the month of April by the numbers. Enjoy my very sick OCD. As always visit the Surf Log daily for the full scoop on my surfing, party and life in general.
Surf Sessions: 17
Days Surfed: 16
Total Time Spent in Water: 27.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 474
Average Waves Caught Per Hour: 17
Santa Clara River Mouth: 4
New Jetty: 3
Emma Wood: 3
Top 3 Surf Sessions:
3) 4-18-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
River Mouth fucking delivered! What a barrel fest. I got the call from my boy Ryan at around 7:30 that the wind was off shore down south. With some small south and fading NW in the water the combo action was just screaming beach breaks. Throw in a lower tide and things were finally looking up. I got to River Mouth and it looked a little smaller then I was hoping. The sand bars were as I had expected a bit torn up from all the wind the past week. Still there were some solid chest to head high pits to be had. There were plenty of guys out, but plenty of peaks spread up and down the beach. I suited up and was stoked for some fun waves. I started at the north end of the reeds where I found a sick little left sand bar that was hallow as hell. I picked off three really fun ones there before running further down the beach where conditions seemed a bit larger and more heavy. My boy Ryan was sitting on a suck up little A-frame all to himself and I joined. We traded some good ones although the current was a bit tricky with strange rips and it was a bit lully. None the less I went to work super pumped that morning.
2) 4-12-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
I don’t know what came over me that got me out of bed before 9am but somehow I was up and ready to surf. I had checked the buoys the night before and noticed a real jump in the swell. As I was cruising down south I saw that Santa Claus had some waves indicating a possible wave at Rincon. I pulled off and sure enough the Cove was going off with a very light crowd. I ran back up to the lot, texted Trevor that he was blowing it and paddled. What a session. I can’t remember the last time I had that much fun. There were at least a handful that went to the high way. My legs were killing me by the end of the session.
3) 4-30-13 AM Session: 4-6+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 53
What a fucking session. Man I am so glad it is finally south swell season and I have a feeling the summer may just make up for the dismal winter we got stuck with. I slept in a little bit being still a tired from the weekend festivities. Trevor and I met up in Carp and rolled south with the intentions of checking the River Mouth and if that was sub par possibly running to Malibu. On first inspection although plenty of size things looked a bit walled with the occasional scattered corner. We gave The Shores a look over at Fifth St, that was looking more organized but a bit on the weak side. The debate was then River Mouth or the ‘Bu. I hate driving away from potential thus we suited and charged the Mouth. As it turned out it was a very good decision with tons of really good left and right corners. I had some cherry ones and I stuck the biggest full rotation ally oop of my life. What a session.