Surfing Ruined My Life

April 2025 Surf Sessions

4-30-25 No Surfing: 2-4+ ft
I had to work a charity lunch in Santa Barbara this morning with Bizarro.  The event ended around 1:30 and we headed south in search of surf.  Everything including Ventura Harbor was far from desirable.  I was feeling pretty under the weather and couldn’t get motivated.  Rather than force a surf and get more sick I decided to run a bunch of errands that I needed to handle followed by coming home to rest a bit.  I also began working on the new Clarks Surfboards YouTube edit. Photo from New Jetty.

4-29-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15m
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 14
The south swell was peaking and a very good angle for Oxnard’s beach breaks.  I got to the Shores and it was solid head high plus and super peaky.  I could tell that I had already missed the tide window by an hour.  As good as it looked my local knowledge told me that by the time I suited and paddled it would have been over.  The rising tide did allow for a chance to score the Hueneme window.  Rockside was solid chest plus with some roping barrels.  Biz showed up and I got on a froth.  Tubes, turns, airs and beatings, plus the odd ball close out bomb set to dodge.  I had a blast but also exhausted what little energy I had.  In the afternoon I met my wife in Santa Barbara where we got a tour of the historic Masonic Temple in the downtown area. I have always been in awe of the Masons for me it was a dream come true.  I’m not allowed to say too much but there may be more visits for me there in the future. 

4-28-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 22
After yesterday’s inadvertent score I headed back to the Ship. Though smaller than yesterday it still had good shape.  Hoping to score the combo swell I drove home to look at Hueneme.  It was way more stretched than I would have liked and shape very much to be desired.  I high tailed it back to the Ship and paddled. I knew I was pushing my luck with the tide window but hoped for the best.  The first half of my surf was fun enough.  There was even an odd ball head high set that got me fired up.  Of course right after that the tide completely shut the place down and I borderline had to paddle in.  The water was bone chilling cold, which did not help with my current ailing state.  I had glassing to do but considering I could barely breathe fresh air I was not about to put on a respirator on and pour poisonous, noxious chemicals.  I actually had a grip of office work to handle that has been piling up for weeks.  I made myself comfortable with a nice cup of lemon green tea and got it all finished. Hopefully I can shake this cold soon. 

4-27-25 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 10
I was feeling like absolute hell this morning  when I got up for my cats 7:30am feeding.  As soon as they were finished I shined surfing and crawled back under the covers.  My wife and I slept in till 11. She was exhausted from her baby shower festivities.  The rest did me a bit of good and I felt well enough go out to brunch.  Around 1pm I got a call from Salar that the Ship was chest plus with good lines.  I have this superstition that if I don’t surf when I’m sick my illness gets worse.  I drove over and there were really decent lines running from the Ship past Tower 5.  I didn’t hesitate to paddle.  Despite being ill I tore the crap out of every left runner that came my way.  It ended up being a super fun surf till the drained out tide and rise in NW wind killed it.  I got home and my wife was buried up to here ears in gift bags from the shower.  The rest of my afternoon was spent helping her go through the haul. Thank you to everyone who attended and all who sent baby gifts through our registry. Having all this baby stuff really takes a load off our shoulders both financially and mentally.

4-26-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 20
Upon waking up I was feeling a bit under the weather. Bizarro had been sick all week with a cold that had been going around and I guess I must have picked it up.  My window this morning was short having a wedding to work in SB at 3pm.  It was also my wife’s baby shower in SB as well at the Stowe House.  My first check was Hueneme but it was small and junky shape.  The bars at the moment are a little too straight.  With time steadily running out I went to the Harbor.  There was a chest plus wave coming in down by the River Mouth that looked fun enough.  I ran down there and had a peak to myself.  The first three waves I caught were super rip-able.  Then the wind began to come up out of the south west and the incoming tide made it very inconsistent.  There were still a few to be had but they were harder to track down.  As the session wore on conditions got borderline not surf-able.  I almost had to paddle in.  As far as the wedding goes it was a rather unique group.  The theme was 70’s style of which all the guests complied.  The music was mostly disco.  For the cocktail hour the bride surprised the groom with a performance by his favorite band, whose style was a whimsical Lord of Rings motif with interpretive dancing.  I work so many cookie cutter weddings it’s fun to experience something out of the box. 

4-25-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 36
Today was definitely a micro score.  Hueneme wasn’t happening and with the south and small NW combo I had a feeling that County Line was going to be fun.  Sure enough the reef was solid chest high and glassy with only one other guy out.  Stoked I jumped in and immediately started tearing apart waves.  I was in the zone surfing rather well.  Salar showed up in the middle of my session and we traded off fun rights.  As the tide dropped the waves began to get a little more stretched and inconsistent.  Somehow I tweaked my knee a little bit on a backside air reverse that as of press time still is feeling a tad suspect.  My afternoon was spent working a wedding in Santa Barbara.

4-24-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 70
Nothing in Ventura was appealing to me and the onshore wind was already up.  After yesterday’s River Mouth debacle I was dead set on going to LA.  All the spots west of Dume had a garbage onshore wind chopping up everything except Leo which was way too crowded for what was on offer.  The Malibu cams looked clean and not too crowded thus I paddled.  Overall it was pretty stretched and inconsistent.  I managed a few combos but the majority of my waves were one and done.  In the afternoon I played 18 holes with Ben on the Vineyard Course at River Ridge.  I played a terrible game shooting a whopping 143! 

4-23-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 20
I hate when I don’t trust my instincts.  Everything told me to go south down the PCH.  I was feeling lazy and instead let Jeffrey talk me into paddling the River Mouth with him. There was an occasional south set that looked rip-able.  Before we paddled we decided to walk into Fruit Stands to see what the sand looked like there.  The way the bars are set up we will need either a really low tide or a size able swell to make it surf-able there.  We suited up and ran down to the River Mouth.  Actually, right off the bat we both scored a few really fun waves.  As the tide dropped and the wind came up more onshore the surf deteriorated quickly till it was borderline not surf-able.  Sometimes when you gamble you lose.  I spent the afternoon painting an abstract pattern on Kevin Angers’ new Time Machine Fish so we can absolutely rip the gutless knee high waves of Florida this summer.  

4-22-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Point Mugu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 20
There was a touch more south swell and decent enough conditions to give the Base a look.  Jeffery had time and took me along.  We got there and it was small, waist to chest with the odd ball larger Base set (if you know, you know).  We paddled.  Jeffery sat at the northern most edge of the lineup, while I sat almost on the border between Pointside and Beachside.   I actually have never sat that deep before.  Considering the size there were some decent side winder south sets to be had.  Overall it was still pretty dumpy and stretched, classic  Base.  I made one really decent back door wedge tube and a few hits.  Considering how small it was I think we probably did the best we could for our window.  Base is always an adventure.  Following the surf I had to get my car smogged since it’s now at that ten year mark.  Luckily I passed, now if only I could afford my registration fee.  Come on people order some custom surfboards.  I’m literally broke.  $625 is a deal for a personally tailored hand made surfboard.  The rest of my afternoon was spent sanding surf boards to fill the few orders that I do have.  Yours could be next!

4-21-25 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 18
My dire financial situation due to lack of surfboard sales that I hope is directly related to the volatile economy forced me to peddle a job as a surf instructor from Surf Happens in Carpinteria.  I hate doing the surf lesson grind but desperate times call for desperate measures.  I’ve known the owner Chris for years and am comfortable with his program and vision.  It’s funny how my life always seems to come full circle.  After the meeting I headed back south.  Jeffery was out at  New Jetty where it was just barely surf-able.  The crowd was light so I paddled.  It was as meager as yesterday, maybe a touch bigger.  The surf was a real grovel.  Rather than committing too much of my time I did a quick hour.  I had surfboard sanding to do and a bit of painting.  All my projects came out great.  If you have some money and are in need of a new surfboard please consider buying one from me.  Customs are $625 and with the way the current economic situation is I’m not sure how long I can continue to keep my pricing that low.  Take advantage now.   I also have a garage full of used boards starting as low as $95.  If you’re interested please, please hit me up. 

4-20-25 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Miles Driven: 18
I should have surfed today.  Sometimes I forget that I’d rather surf bad waves than not surf at all.  This morning I found myself on the dunes looking at New Jetty completely unmotivated.  It was maybe waist high at best and weak.  There were about fifteen guys out and for the life of me I couldn’t get into it.  Instead I decided to go home and spend the morning with my pregnant wife, who at 32 weeks is not in the condition to come along on the majority of my surf outings anymore.  Any man who has or had a pregnant wife knows you never know exactly whom you’re coming home to.  Due to all the hormones her mood changes by the hour if not by the minute.  I stupidly walked into an irritable, angry wife to the avail that no matter what I did or said it aggravated her ultimately making me wish I surfed. A lesson was learned. From here on out I’m surfing no matter what.  She calmed down around 11ish and we went to brunch and somehow we weren’t unaudited with Easter brunch crowds.  After breakfast I needed to return some LED lights I bought at Lowe’s for the shop that the sales person said would work with my florescent light fixtures but they did not.  Of course when we got there they were closed for the holiday.  Home Depot was open and I wanted to buy some gardening supplies for this cactus garden I have been dreaming of in my yard.  They had everything I wanted and more.  My afternoon was spent creating the cactus garden I have been dreaming of for over three years now.  Maybe I’ll share some pictures of it on my Instagram.  Photo from New Jetty.

4-19-25 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 12
It was as small as small could be this morning.  With a little wind swell on the buoys I decided to check strand with the hope that the Ship might have a small wave to ride.  That was not the case as the waves were just big enough to tease.  Considering the conditions I decided to head back to Hueneme despite the low tide.  The Pier had a small close out with a hit-able corner.  I got busy making the most of the micro surf.  It was exercise at the very least. My evening was spent working a wedding at the Lavender Inn, downtown Ojai. 

4-18-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 18
The surf was the smallest in the last couple of days.  I had a thing in Hueneme at 11 so I had to surf early or after.  I decided to have a look at Ventura Harbor.  New Jetty had a junky waist to chest high wave coming in with a light crowd for that spot.  The only reason I paddled was because the wind was somewhat offshore.  I ended up getting on a froth and ripped the crap out of every wave that came to me.  My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards. 

4-17-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 18
I guess two days in a row at the Mouth may have been a little too much to ask for.  I should have went down south and surfed Zeros with Zach.  Once I’m at the Harbor it’s hard for me to justify driving back south to LA.  There were some chest plus sets coming through down at the Mouth.  The wind was light WSW adding a bit of bump but the faces were clean enough to rip.  I paddled and managed a few but as the session wore on the wind got harder and waves got steadily worse.  The air stunk with the pungent smell of all the decaying Vellela jelly fish, which had washed up in the millions over the past few days.  It was definitely the largest group I have ever seen.  The only thing I was clinging to was that I had a sand bar all to myself.  That didn’t last as a three pack of college kids came and crowded me on a bar that barely was producing enough for one.  I caught a few more then headed home.  My afternoon was spent shaping a super high performance old school twin fin fish for Kevin Angers to rip.  It was my five year wedding anniversary thus I quit early to take my wife to a fancy dinner at Nonna’s Italian restaurant in West Lake.  We had a splendid time.  The food was decent and I really like the atmosphere there.  The place is totally worth your patronage if you’re in the area. 

4-16-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 18
There is no better feeling than when you’re completely stoked by borderline all time conditions on a day where you expected to just be average.  I pulled up at Ventura Harbor and couldn’t believe my eyes as there were peaky chest to head high waves breaking up and down the beach as far as the eye could see with the occasional spitting tube.   I think it’s been years since I have seen such decent shape at the place.  There were about forty guys spread out with only a handful of guys on each peak.  Salar showed up and we ran down to the River Mouth where I saw a few empty peaks.  As soon as we paddled out we both got proper waves.  I managed one really deep tube and a couple of in and outs.  Even as the tide got higher and the wind came up it still held shape.  What a fun surf.  Hopefully this sets the tone out there for the entirety of the south swell season.  It’s been a number of years since we had a good summer at River Mouth.  After the surf I went home and got some shaping done.

4-15-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 70
I really didn’t want to find myself back at Malibu today but it seemed like the best option as Hueneme still had junky shape and everything else on the way was not appealing.  I met Zach at Third and CC showed up just behind us.  Though small and inconsistent there were a few runners to be had.  More than anything we were stoked to have the entire line up to ourselves.   CC as usual got the wave of the session.  To my credit I had a few decent airs and combos.  My afternoon was spent in the service of fixing dings.

4-14-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 70
There was a new south swelling filling in along with the fading south from the weekend and a minor WNW.  Hueneme was looking pretty dumpy still.  I opted to head south.  County Line was a bit  stretched and crowded for what it was. Zach was paddling Zeros.  I watched the place for a bit but couldn’t get into it. I saw some sets on the Malibu cam with a rather light crowd and paddled.  There were some pretty fun chest plus runners to be had at both second and Third.  The larger sets were pretty stretched.  As the tide began to drop it got very lully and the wind came up.  The surf was far from a score but I did get a few turns and airs in.  It was nice to get a break from the intense crowds of the weekend.  Apparently there was a 6.1 Earthquake outside of San Diego that from what I gather from folks I know who live there was pretty intense.  One day this earth is just going to shake us all off like ants.  The rest of my afternoon was spent glassing. 

4-13-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 70
I had a look at both Strand and Hueneme. Neither were my cup of tea.  CC called and said he was headed to Malibu and I jumped in with him.  We paddled out at the same time as everyone else.  The line up was packed and inconsistent.  When a set came it was head high but with only three waves in it there wasn’t much to go around and out of those most were really stretched.  In my frustration I floated down to the Kiddie Bowl and just started boosting stupid big airs into the rocks.  What a waste, maybe I should have just taken my chances at Hueneme again.  I got home and grabbed a quick lunch with my wife.  The rest of my afternoon was spent playing 9 holes at Soule Park in Ojai with my brother in law.  I shot a 65 which isn’t bad considering how hard that course to play.  

4-12-25 AM Session: 5-7+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
I had a wedding to work in Malibu today and I should have just surfed down that way and then went to work.  Instead I thought I saw some corners off the south side of the Pier.  It was solid overhead and bombing.  In the words of one of my friends from Strand who chargers “it looked like you could really hurt yourself out there”.  I don’t what got into me but I paddled.  Right off the bat I realized the error in my judgment as I got hammered by ten wave set of close out bombs.  When I finally got to the out side the place was riddled with rips and currents.  There were a few other guys out and a few on the beach who didn’t make the paddle.  Most guys paddled out took one and left.  If you were patient and savy there were some waves to be had out there.  I managed one huge right tube that I was literally standing tall in.  Luckily I snuck out the front before it closed out.  Mostly it was survival surfing.  Meanwhile I heard Malibu was solid and on all day.  Every now and then it’s fun to get your heart racing in a session.  The wedding was a bear of a gig, four courses plated for 225 people.  We pulled it off but I was very exhausted by the time I got back home to Hueneme.  Maybe I’m getting too old for this line of work.

4-11-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 2
Today was the start of the first real south swell of the season and it was a very hyped up swell at that.  I did what I usually do when such an event happens on the weekend.  I surf out front at Hueneme.  For a change the north side of the Pier was pretty fun.  There was a boost-able left wedge off the pilings, a right wedge going back towards the pier and then another left in between those peaks and still yet another A-frame between those.  The place was a skate park and I reveled in it.  I can’t remember the last time I saw that side of the pier break like that.   I boosted some airs, got a a few tubes and turns.  All the boxes were checked.  In the evening I had to work a fundraiser in Carpinteria. 

4-10-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 10
With a 4.5 foot high tide at 9am and less swell then there has been the past few days I was not rushing out the door.  I had a surfboard to hot coat before cruising to surf.  For a change I took the luxury of getting reports from my friends instead of giving them.  Salar was claiming the Ship had a chest high wave.  Since I got word all the north points were small and the Harbor bad I drove over.  Though the tide was a little fat still, the Ship had some real potential.  Enough for us to paddle as well as Guy and Jeffery.  As the tide dropped the waves actually got weaker and less consistent.  The wind picked up making matters worse.  There is nothing more frustrating than when there are waves but it’s completely terrible.  My best wave was three turn right.  A right at the Ship!  If that doesn’t put the session in perspective I don’t know what will.  I borderline had to paddled in the surf got so bad.  County Line was the call, but I really wanted to surf at home today.  This has been a week of driving thus far.  The rest of my afternoon was consumed by surfboard manufacturing.  I fined a board, painted a board and sanded a board.  Just another day in the life of a surfboard builder. 

4-9-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 40
I got word that the north points were on the smaller side and Hueneme was tiny.  I had a feeling with the combo that County Line was going to be fun and headed that way.  I checked everything to Zeros before settling on paddling the reef at County.  There was a chest high rip-able very glassy right hander that tickled my fancy.  I gladly went to work smashing sections and racing runners.  I got on a real tear and the crowd was very light.  I’d say it was a score.  My afternoon was spent shaping.

4-8-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 54
There was some SW in the water mixing in with yesterday’s NW swell. It was enough to get me to check out front.  Hueneme wasn’t doing its thing.  I decided to meet up with Salar at Rincon where I heard it was head high.   By the time I got there it was maybe chest high and super weak looking and crowded too.  Little Rincon was also crowded and terrible.  We settled on Pitas just because I was tired of driving around.  The line up steadily got packed and the top was so dumpy it was borderline not surf-able.  I floated down the point where it was a little more lined up but very small and inconsistent.  Eventually I headed back up top in utter frustration as it was still crowded and still terrible.  I was going to bail but guys were leaving and it was a rather nice day.  I had a feeling conditions were going to get better.  At this point it was just Salar, myself and two other guys and with the low tide it began to peel.  For whatever reason I was in peak form today and began dismantling every wave that came my way.  I’m talking a full on froth.  The weather was warm, water clear and dolphins were jumping in and out of the waves.  One couldn’t ask for a better sliver lining to what began as a nightmare of a surf.  My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards. 

4-7-25 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Ventura Point
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 52
There’s nothing I love more than the day of a hyped up swell.  It’s usually extra crowded and an under performer.  This swell pretty much followed suit.  bizarro and I set out with grandiose ideas of scoring one of the north points.  Rincon was packed and under whelming.  Little Rincon was packed and dumpy.  Pitas was crowded with less than desirable shape.  On the drive up I saw solid sets coming through at Ventura Point and decided to make my rare once a year appearance.  Actually, I was pleasantly surprised by how fun the Point was.  As Bizzaro was setting up his camera.  Mini showed up with his rig and a handful of Ventura pros in addition to a portion of the Vans team including Holly Wawn.  Despite the pro-show I got plenty of waves thanks to how consistent it was.  Every few minutes a set of overhead bombs steam rolled through leaving me borderline under gunned on my 5’7.  Ryan and Evan paddled towards the end of my surf right as the wind began to come up.  There were still some decent ones to be had but it felt like the sets were coming in way more stretched.  I had more than gotten my fill.   When I got out Biz said it would have been cool to see me surf in my twenties when I was at my peak.   Watching those young pros at the height of their game made me a tad envious.  For being 44 years old I still managed to at the very least hold my own.  What a session to say the least.  Look for this footage soon on the Clarks Surfboards YouTube channel. 

4-6-25 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
Today was another day of very small surf.  With a morning high tide and ever so slight a touch of south swell I decided to have a look out front.  I was up and didn’t want to go back to bed.  If the surf was flat I figured I would just go for a beach walk.  It was a nice morning at the very least.  Sure enough Hueneme had a knee to thigh high wave off the south side of the Pier that looked surf-able.  There were two guys out.  I jumped in next to the pier and sat outside of one of the guys out there who was sitting too far inside.  He was some random kook on a soft top.  First wave that came in l positioned myself and caught it.  Kooky guy on the inside decided he was going to paddle too.  By the time he even got to paddling I had already blew right past him.  When I paddled back out dude threw his hands up and had a fit about how I rudely back paddled him and I didn’t even say hi when I came out.  Dumbfounded I stared at him for a moment.  I couldn’t comprehend why a guy of his surfing level and status would even have the gumption to open is mouth to talk to a surfer of my esteem let alone yell at me.  I basically let him know where he stood in the hierarchy of the lineup.  He wasn’t having it, grumbled a bit then paddled down the beach where he belonged.  We really are living in the era of the kook.  I surfed out the rest of my session then went home and got brunch with my wife.  My afternoon was spent working on surfboards.

4-5-25 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Today was just about as small as it gets around here.  Nothing with in a fifty mile radius of my home was bigger than knee high.  Rather than spin my wheels for a pathetic grovel I treated myself to a morning of sleeping in.  This is a luxury I’m never afforded.   Around 11am my wife and I went to brunch after which we went dress shopping for a dress for my wife to wear at her baby shower. As usual we found a stunning ensemble.  I got home and glassed a board in my garage.  It’s the first board since moving my entire operation home.  I must say it was a success.  Now I need to figure out a better ventilation system.  Photo from Ventura Harbor.

4-4-25 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 10
Where did all the swell go?  That’s the thing about wind swell, it doesn’t last.  Salar and I decided to paddle the minuscule left overs at the ship which were maybe waist high and weak.  The water was freezing and the wind turned onshore right as I paddled.  I forced out a very unenthusiastic hour though did manage one air that got the mail man excited.  My afternoon was committed to fixing dings.  My wife and I went for a sunset beach walk at Hueneme. 

4-3-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 10
Finally the culmination of all that wind lead to a half way decent day at the Ship.  The shape wasn’t the best and it was all over the place but there were solid head high plus sets with an ok crowd.  I paddled and Biz came to film and Zach paddled. I was pleasantly surprised with how good the waves coming off the ship were.  The bowl was almost working.  I did my thing and found plenty of fun waves.  I would have surfed another hour but the water was so cold after two hours I began getting dizzy and seeing blurry.  Full on hypothermia symptoms.  I took the hint and caught my next wave in.  For the rest of the day I was freezing, never really getting my core body temp back up. The rest of my afternoon was spent fixing dings.

4-2-25 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 92
Every once in a while I have to go on an idiot mission to remind myself that some days are better left not surfed or challenged.  The gale was still blowing super hard on the coast.  The swell unfortunately was a tad smaller being that we were in the fetch and not the gain.  Surfline claimed more swell was supposed to fill in for the afternoon.  I spent the morning fixing dings.  Around two I decided to drive to Leo hoping between the south swell and wind swell I could at the very least ride a fish. When I got there it was super small and freezing out.  I couldn’t motivate to grovel really shitty knee high Leo.  Throwing in the towel I went home.  As soon as I got to my house Salar called and said he was going to go check Rincon and I was welcome to come.  Since I had finished up my work for the day I decided to roll with him.  Of course by stroke of luck we got a flat tire by Emma Wood.  After a brief tire change we got back at it only to pull up to a barely waist high weak Rincon.  I was freezing and was completely unmotivated. Salar wasn’t into either.  Talk about an afternoon of car surfing.  Photo from Leo.

4-1-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 70
 Today was the start of yet another coastal gale, one of many we have grown so fond of this year.  All the beaches were trash and I got word Rincon was small.  There was still south in the water and the wind didn’t look too bad on the Malibu cam.  I rolled the dice and headed south.  I paddled Second and though a tad smaller than I hoped right off the bat I caught a string of waves all the way through First.  I can’t remember the last time that happened. I walked back up and paddle just above Second.  At that point the wind and low tide had begun to take its toll on the surf.  The wind broke up the lines and the tide made it very inconsistent.  Between the wind and cold water I became frozen fast and threw in the towel.  I surfed chest high Malibu with less then ten people on the whole point.  That’s special.  The rest of my afternoon was spent fixing dings.