June 2017 Surf Sessions
6-30-17 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 64
There was a bit more combo in the water today leading me to believe that I might luck into a fun low tide session at Ventura Harbor. I was met with enough onshore wind to ruin River Mouth and shitty sand with not enough swell for New Jetty to be fun. I considered risking a run for Strand since there was a fair amount of NW wind swell lacking a quality report from any of my contacts I found myself staring at top of C Street. I must have pulled up to a set cause I was greet with a four wave waist plus set of runners up at Pipe. Stoked I snagged a spot in the lower lot and made my way up the point. As it turned out decent sets were few and far between. I did manage a few long runners that only my fish could have afforded, but over all I should have taken my chances at Strand.
6-29-17 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 56
The initial plan was to wake up early and try and see if the drained tide would allow for the wave at New Jetty to connect all the way through. Thanks to having a bit too much to drink at my dinner party I woke up a tad later then I had wanted to. Ryan actually got to the beach first for a change, being that he only lives five minutes from it and let me know it was terrible. With that information I chilled in and waited for the mid day high tide. The buoys had a tad bit more south on them and a little more wind swell. Nothing was of any real consequence. I had a look at Indicator and it was surf-able, but there was more wind swell then south swell coming in. I figured Emma was still my best bet. Once again it was more south crumblers. Dane was out groveling it with a few other Emma regulars. I paddled the fish with a tri fin configuration. Just like the first generation Pop Fizz I found it to be a little sticky and some what slower. When I got it going the performance was adequate. The fins I am using are a little bit and I think I still need a few more days on it. Luckily there are plenty of small waves to be had in the forecast.
6-28-17 PM session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
Miles Driven: 64
Its getting to be like Ground Hog Day ever since I lost my job. Everyday I wake up make my lady lunch head to the Harbor to be let down by another lie of a south swell and eventually end up at Emma Wood for a high tide grovel. I hung out on the beach with Ryan for a bit, while his kids played in the surf and the tide came up. After about an hour it was deep enough to allow for the sets to get through the outside feather uninterrupted. Of course everyone who was looking to surf in the area were all waiting for the same thing and about ten of of mobbed this barely ride-able line up. There were lots of shitty shifty peaks and I had no trouble getting my share of the garbage. The fish is still working decent enough and probably the only thing helping me through this flat spell. I was going to quit after my usual twenty, but then Ryan and Kevin paddled out so I stayed a bit longer. Later that night Bizarro and I cooked up some stuffed shells and this cannoli cream puff pastry dessert we created for a very long overdue Wednesday dinner party.
6-27-17 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Miles Driven: 64
Waves Surfed: 23
The swell was really down today. I think Lowers was probably the only place in Southern California where finding a decent wave was possible. I needed a surf. As it turned out through some bull shit that I still have no understanding of I got fired yesterday evening. I had to surf out all the rage and hostility I had inside me. Of course the waves were absolutely terrible. The tide was too low for Emma and it was too windy for the Harbor. I had a few errands to run in Ventura any way and waited out the tide. When I got to Emma it was terrible and some what crowded for what was out there. Dane and Matt Mc Cabe were out with a host of other groms. I grabbed the fish and hit it. Though crazy small there were some fun little south bowls that offered some kill-able turn and air sections. The board still felt really good.
6-26-17 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 64
I knew there wasn’t too much on the buoys. I really wanted to surf being it was my day off. I drove to The Harbor hoping New Jetty would have a wave. It was small and pathetic. I saw when I passed Emma thus I went back to have a look. It was complete trash out there. Minimal south and some left over wind swell from the previous night. I have this fish Gabe made that he lent me to try out and give him some feed back. Since he left it with me two weeks ago the surf has been fun and short board-able. Today was perfect for a fish. The board went very well and much better then the Pop-fizz in the beach break. I think if it had a little more overall rocker in it and was an inch bigger for my size it could be a winner. I may just have to make me one.
6-25-17 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 64
I had to work the early shift thanks to about 50 box lunches that needed to be out by 10:45. After I got out late afternoon my chick met me in Carpinteria and we cruised. The wind was super hard and I couldn’t find any parking at Rincon. As a result we decided to get some dinner at Ventura Harbor and have a look at last light Emma in hopes of some cleaner conditions. Though not cleaner local wind swell had filled in allowing for some solid chest to head plus sets. No one was out and the North Peak looked rather fun. I paddled and there was lots of current and water moving around out there making finding a good one tough. I was also rather tired from my work day. Still I got a few and was stoked I paddled.
6-24-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
There was definitely some residual south swell in the water and I wanted to surf. I had to work a wedding in the Valley at 1 pm and it was the Santa Barbara Solstice celebration weekend. This causes very shitty traffic getting into town. I couldn’t go to Jalama before because I was stuck driving the car pool. All of this forced me to make the responsible choice not to surf. Pat was taking his boat out to the islands and I am actually glad I didn’t have the day off since he got all the way out there and realized it was too gnarly to get the the actual surf spots.
6-23-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 30
Finally a south angle and period that was favorable for the 805 complemented by light winds. Unfortunately for me this happened to fall on a work day leaving me a short window to surf. I knew River Mouth was going to be fun, but also knew if I went down there I would have very little time to surf. I stopped off at Indicator and sure enough there was a solid chest plus left coming in with three to four peaks. There was a crowd with my time constraints I decided to take my chances. As it turned out it was everyone who is anyone at Rincon left making catching waves a bit tough. I am scrappy and have had enough time on that wave to know where to sit and how to pick some off the pack. As luck would have it I managed one really good tube. By far it was the best day I have seen or surfed out there since last summer
6-22-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 64
The wind was finally lighter then it has been today. I though maybe with the south that River Mouth was going to on. The tide was a bit high, sets inconsistent and still way too much combo swell. There were a few good ones, but they were few and far between. Strand could have been good, but I didn’t feel like driving that far on a hunch. Then the wind picked up out of the south leaving New Jetty the only in town option. I really didn’t want to drive to Malibu again. There were a few lefts coming in at the Jetty and I paddled. No one was out and I had it to myself. Good waves were few and far between. The ones that did come in were shifty, back wash riddled and hard to read. I did manage a couple, but overall it was more frustrating then fun.
6-21-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros, Malibu
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 118
My new car needed to go into the dealer so that they could add on the accessories package I had paid for. Bizarro came down with me so that we could head out for a surf/shoot session after. The wind was once again shitty. We made a quick look at Strand, which did have a wave though junky with the wind before heading south to Malibu. Pat was ahead of us and we met him at average, crowded Leo. The wind was trashing Zeros leaving me only one more option, Point Dume. The tide was a bit too low and swell too small to make Dume worth anything. The call was to just go back to Leo and see what I could scrap on the inside. As I was attempting to get my line up photo Ryan called and said he heard the wind had let up at Strand and was on his way. Rather then be hasty I decided to wait for his call. Biz had to use the restroom so we drove over to Zero while we awaited the call. The wind had clocked in a bit more north and for what ever reason was hitting the spot side shore/off shore and was looked rather fun. Ryan called and confirmed Strand was not worth bailing back to. A bird in the had after all. I was not the only one who took notice of the change in conditions. Fifteen other heads paddled at about the same time clogging the line-up. Half of those came out on soft tops and long boards kooking out the place and making getting a set wave hard. The insiders were actually doubling up and very rip-able. I was getting two to three turns out of most and there was a decent air ramp as well. Some kook on a fish burned me while I was coming down the line at mach speed. I thought he was going to cut high giving me the low route to pass him. Instead he kooked it, went straight, hitting me and putting a nice size dent in the bottom of my board. Besides that, an incident one must come to expect out of surfing in North LA I must say it was a good surf and we got some decent shots too. Later that night I made a nice meat Lasagna for dinner.
6-20-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 67
There was all sorts of combo swell in the water making surfing seem like a good idea. The cam indicated some funky wind, but I was intent of surfing. I cruised to the Harbor, but it was way to windy for there. Hoping for some peaks at Emma I headed that way. All that was showing was the south and between the dropping tide and the shitty swell angle there wasn’t much on offer. I drove back to c-street where I was just going to desperation fish it. After watching the horrible mush burgers that were rolling in for fifteen minutes I just couldn’t bring myself to paddle. On a last resort I headed to Rincon for a look backside. With any luck I could kill an hour there. Once again though an occasional wave the dropping tide just didn’t have me sold. I was going to just go to work, but my chef texted me not to come in till 1:30. Of course if I had that information earlier when I was at Ventura I could have ran down to Malibu for a session. I gave my chef a piece of mind for it.
6-19-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 64
I guess I should have woken up earlier this morning. I really didn’t think I was going to end up at the River Mouth. The buoys were still showing more NW then South swell in the water. I figured I would either surf Emma or Rincon. When I was driving down all my NW indicators came up short. At Emma Wood there was nothing but south showing and it was rather small and shitty. I was out of time, but my chef had the day off today which gives me a small window of flexibility. With that in mind I headed to the Harbor. Sure enough there were some pretty fun peaks up and down the beach over at the River Mouth with only a handful of guys out. Stoked I jumped in and right off the bat lucked into a draining left tube. Right after that the wind started to pick up and it wasn’t long before the shape went to shit. That was fine cause I had to go to work and my tail pad began ripping off mid session. Hey, I got my barrel so no complaints here.
6-18-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
When I got off from work last night something compelled me to drive up to the the store and buy a bottle of Veuve Clicquot. When that emptied it was off to the Wild Cat where I decided to be a baller and buy another two bottle of champagne. Needless to say I woke up a bit on the hung over side of things. Around noon I dragged myself out of bed to three missed calls from separate friends claiming Strand was head plus and solid. Strand in June? There was some solid NW wind swell on the buoys and all of these guys are reliable sources. My girl and I headed straight to Strand. Thanks to it being both Fathers Day and Sunday every line up was packed from Rincon to C Street. Some how the south end of the Strand was empty, clean and solid. Stoked I tore on my suit and jumped in. It was definitely over head on the sets. The tide was a bit high for the Ship causing me to surf the bowl. At first I was picking either close outs or die outs. By the half way point of my session I began to get in the groove and heated up. I must say it was super fun and my new board kills it. This is by far the best short board I have had under my feet in quite some time.
6-17-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
This morning I felt worlds better and really wanted to surf. The buoys and cams looked smaller then the past few days and with prep and an event I thought it would be best to sit it out. The event was at a private residence just down the street from me and went down with out a hitch.
6-16-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I woke up feeling even worse then the night before and even considered calling in sick. Instead I decided I would go in and feel out the day and if it was not too hectic hope that chef would let me go home. It was a good thing I did go in cause Chef had went home sick and so did Martha leaving me to prep and put out a pack out event in the evening and a mid day tasting. As the day wore on I began to feel a lot better. After work I came home, grabbed my girl and we took my car up to Gaviota for a drive and a little sunset action.
6-15-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 56
I was feeling a tad bit under the weather all week and it finally began to take a toll on me. I had to work from 7am to 5 pm. I had a look at Emma and it was far from epic with way to many guys on it and more showing up. I couldn’t get into it. I had to stop by the mall to pick up a gift my chick. She been feeling a little neglected with the purchase of my new car and everything else that went with it. I thought it would be nice to get her a little something. I figured I would just get a few on my fish at Rincon on the way home. As I was shopping I began to feel really sick and by the time I got home I was flat on my back. I suppose I had lost the fight against the cold that had been trying to take me down all week.
6-14-17 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 30
The NW swell was still running and I should have gotten up and just surfed Rincon again. Instead I slept in banking on getting out of work on time and getting an evening session at Emma, which has been the out performer on high tide for this entire wind swell run. My work day was going exactly as planned. So much so that in fact I called my girl and told her to meet me at the beach. Right as I began cleaning up I get a text from Chef informing me that I had to back 375 cookies and platter them for tomorrow’s UCSB graduation breakfast. All of a sudden my time table went right out the window and I got stuck there till after seven. By the time I got to Emma Wood and paddled it was nearly 8 pm. I frothed a quick heat. As far as filming went we lost the light super fast and were left with nothing but a few low shutter speed blurs.
6-13-17 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 30
Considering all the NW that was on the buoys and last night’s Emma session I didn’t hesitate to have a look at Rincon. Though tiny in the Cove, the Indicator and River Mouth both had some decent lines coming through. There was a slight shitty south wind bump and crumble on it, nothing my fish couldn’t handle. I had to work at ten leaving little time for debate. It had been nearly a month since I have surfed Rincon proper and it felt great to draw some long lines again. As usual my fish performance turned the heads of everyone out there. I must say Gabe really out did himself with the design of the Pop Fizz. This board has totally changed the way I look at small wave surfing.
6-12-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 56
Last night we all raged a bit too hard at the Wild Cat. My chick had been sick all weekend and after an evening of beach side boosing with Gabe and Biz everyone was ready to take the party downtown when I got home from work. We got a slightly later start as a result. My new car finally came in so Gabe and I headed down for a surf and then we were going to drive my car back. Emma was shockingly solid chest to head plus with no one out and some what clean conditions. We jumped in and it was super fun. Between the lack of sleep from last night and feeling a tad under the weather myself I was dragging out there putting a somewhat of a damper on my surf. We kept the session short cause we had to get to the dealer by five to get my SI. Of course when we got there my car had yet to arrive leaving us an extra 2 hours to kill. We were already in Oxnard thus went for a quick thrift. Finally my new whip showed up around seven and it was just a sick as I had hoped. Thanks to Gabe’s great tutelage I had no problem driving it all the way.
6-11-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 64
Today was supposed to be my day off. In classic Omni fashion there were few last minute corporate lunches added to the coming weeks’s docket forcing me to have to come in at some point to get a jump on some of the prep. Since it was my off I was at liberty to come in whenever I wanted. My lady and I headed down to the beach as per usual on a Sunday. The harbor was all blown out leaving us staring at a some what torn up, crowded and terrible looking Emma Wood. I really wanted to get wet and there was some little wind swell lines getting in on the North Peak. I paddled into a line up that was completely inundated with groms. Summer vacation is upon us in about a week. I knew I needed to show what the pecking order was going to be. A precedent that if not set right away can make for a very annoying summer. I finagled whatever waves I wanted and when necessary threw in a few burns as well. Hopefully those kids will know there place for the rest of the summer.
6-10-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 64
After being banished from Lisanti Land as a result of some foul conduct I finally allowed Gabe to come back to the Palace. With the purchase of my new car I needed him to teach me how to drive stick. The last time I drove a stick was the work truck in New Zealand and that was only a four speed and I was shifting with my left hand. We went out for a brief driving lesson followed by a surf down south. Sure enough there were still some fun ones at New Jetty. I grabbed my short board this time not about to make the mistake I made yesterday. It was a tad on the mushy and wind swelly side, but there was almost no crowd and despite a slight onshore wind the faces were clean. We were both pleasantly surprised with a super fun session. I am really liking the way my new J7 feels. I think it is my best board in a year. The rest of my day was spent working a wedding at The Historical Society Museum where it felt like the entire even we were stuck in the weeds. Still in the end the kitchen pulled through victorious.
6-9-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 77
After last nights surprising residual south left overs at Emma I didn’t hesitate to head to the Harbor in search of more waves. Of course the wind was on it and conditions smaller and weaker then I would have liked. The cold dampness of the morning marine layer had me not stoked. Ryan hit me up and I told him we might as well go check Emma cause it looked better from the freeway. Emma although clean was small weak and rather crowded for the shitty waves on offer. Based on that we cruised back to New Jetty and paddled. I grabbed my fish expecting nothing but mush burgers. As it turned out the wind began to die and conditions steadily cleaned up. With the incoming tide push some real sets began to role in leaving me rather under gunned on my fish. I caught a few, but was not able to truly utilize the conditions on my fish.
6-8-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Stair Case(pictured)/Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 60
This morning I had to work a lunch on the Channel Cat. I don’t mind working on this ship cause the galley is very nice and spacious. It also has a sick little port hole that opens up and looks out onto the sea. As it turned out the wind sucked in the morning anyway. After work I headed to Emma for an evening session. The wind was still up out of the NW tearing through the south lines. I had a look at Staircase where the wind is always better being it’s more protected. I thought I saw a few good lefts and paddled my fish. I don’t know if the steadily dropping tide killed it or what, but it became close out city. After five waves I cut my losses and headed back to Emma. As it turned out the south was pushing way stronger then I had expected and I found myself way under gunned on my fish out there.
6-7-17 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 17 Miles
Driven: 64
It’s amazing how important having adequate sand at a surf spot is. After two years of shitty sand I think New Jetty is finally coming back into its own. It’s still has a long way to go but at least it’s surf-able. Ryan And I were having a hard time deciding between River Mouth or NJ ultimately the Jetty won out due to lack of crowd and ease of wave selection. I thought it was going to be super soft, but was pleasantly surprised with the amount of fun rip-able walls. Ryan and I had it all to ourselves the entire surf.
6-6-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros, Malibu
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 118
I got intel early that the Harbor had bad shape and crap wind. With that knowledge I headed to Emma. There were some peaks coming in up and down the beach. The North Peak looking the best since there was more NW swell then south swell in the water. The wind was also up rather strong out of the NW as well. The buoys were still showing ample south left overs and better winds down in LA. I was given the day off to day due to lack of work in the kitchen. Not something I was stoked to hear considering I just spent a bundle on a new car yesterday. Unfortunately everything in Malibu was super insonsistent and it was evident that the south was dwindling fast and now rather weak with the shorter period. Zeros looked the best between, Leo and County. It is easy as a goofy foot to be lured into paddling there. First off you are checking it from up on a cliff, its a psuedo left reef/point and it always looks way more rip-able then it actually is. Today was no exception to that rule. Most waves were weak and frustrating. There was a pack of ten Brazilians out filming from drones, the water and the land even though all of them were mediocre surfers at best. Why do Brazilians like that shitty wave. I swear everytime I surf Zeros I feel like I am in Rio. They left shortly after I paddled along with the decent sets. I lingered for another hour and half. When the tide bottomed out the shape was a lot better. By that point the sets had gotten so inconsistent and spotty that fatigue and cold set in thanks to good old June gloom. I am really starting to loose my patience with summer and it has barely begun. Overall I think I should have saved my gas and just got a few at Emma, though it was nice to surf some clean waves for a change.
6-5-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 64
The south swell was still brewing thus I headed back to River Mouth. Ryan said it had size still and was paddling. I got there and there was a bit of eddy wind texture on it and most sets were pretty walled or just shutting down. After watching it for almost twenty minutes I had not seen anyone get a worth while ride. New Jetty was all closed out as well. One the way down I saw a few waves at Emma Wood and headed back. Sure enough the combo swell was making it very peaky and bowly. There were ramps every where and even a few barrels. Stoked I tore on my suit and ran down the trail. Right off the bat I snagged three good lefts. After that I think the window had ended and it was a struggle to get anything. I had few close out barrels and a couple of terrible rights. As the tide got lower a decent right began to come in on the North Peak. Phil was out getting fun ones and I paddled over. The last half hour I lucked into some of my better waves of the session, until it completely shut down. Following the surf session I drove over to the Ventura Honda dealership to see about buying a 2017 Honda Civic SI. After an hour or so of negotiating and two hours of dealings I am the proud owner of one of the cars of my dreams. Of course it won’t be here for another week or two. According to the salesman I will be the only one in the 805 to own a 2017 two door SI in the color I got it. I am pretty excited to say the least. Hard work does pay off sometimes.
6-4-17 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
Miles Driven: 64
The calls that south swell was hear became flooding in around nine. Hoping for an amazing day I waxed up my new J7 and headed for Ventura Harbor with my chick. Upon checking it the waves were solid though the shape and consistency could have been better. To me it looked like a real hit or miss day. River Mouth is one of those places where often I see good waves all around me, but just for the life of me can’t get on them. This was exactly the case today. Pat and I went down the beach and found a peak all to ourselves. Neither one of us could ever get in sync with what was on offer. I found a few fun ones though the barrels I saw and was searching for never happened. Towards the end of the surf it appeared a little more WNW had filled in walling out the majority of the sets. At least there was some size. As far as my new board goes it was very fast and at times I felt a bit out of control. I guess it will just take some getting used to.
6-3-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
What can I say last night my girl, Bizarro and I went a bit too hard at the Wild Cat. End result I was way too hung over to entertain a surf. From What I heard it was pretty average. I had to work a very high ticket wedding in the Valley at 1:30 where I had to shuck over a 100 oysters and didn’t get home till 1 am. Dollar Bills baby.
6-2-17 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 64
It figures the morning I finally drag my lazy ass out of bed to try and get a few waves before work the conditions absolutely sucked. First there was a bit too much WNW in the water for River Mouth. As I was assessing New Jetty the wind decided to come up out of NW enough to dissuade me. Driving down I noticed a few at Emma and decided to head back. Emma looked small, weak and terrible and the couple of guys out were not selling it. I debated just going into work early. I had an event to work in the valley thus this was my only shot at getting wet. I grabbed my fish and made the most of the poor conditions.
6-1-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Once again the morning conditions were far from appealing. I knew I had some afternoon staff coming in to help relieve me in the kitchen. With that I decided to wait and hope to get better waves and wind in the afternoon like yesterday. I don’t really understand what happened, but somehow I got into the weeds at work and found myself stuck making a batch of falafels instead of getting some waves. I heard from Ryan that C-Street was fun.