Surfing Ruined My Life

March 2013 Surf Sessions

3-31-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I have been fighting off this cold for the past few days now.  Buoys were beat before I went to sleep and when I woke up it was raining.  Fucking over it.  Trevor went down to River Mouth and said there were some decent sets, but by the time he got there the wind was on it.  What ever surfing is gay anyway.

3-30-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Last night we raged it at the Cat.  Myself, Timo “The Wonder Bread”, his girl Amelia, my new girl, and of course Bizarro.   It was a fun night out of drinking, socializing and dancing.  Bizarro and I decided to host an after party since JP was in LA.  It was not one of the wild ones but I think everyone who came enjoyed themselves.  As usual no one got hurt, died, vomited on, broke or stole anything making it a success in my book.  Oh and no cops.

3-29-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 60
Oh the froth,  I had not surfed a really fun surf in almost two weeks.  The buoys and reports were all reading shit. Harvest had about 5 feet on it meaning Harbor would have something to ride.  Trevor and I cruised with very low expectations.  Things were glassy and there were plenty of corners coming in down at River Mouth with only a few guys spread out along lots of peaks.  We got in front of it and it was way bigger then we though and more powerful.  There were not realy a ton of tubes but some really kilable left and right corners.   Initially I thought we might have blown it as many of the sets were completely walled.  After the first twenty minutes things started to pick up and I started getting some really fun lefts and rights.  New board felt a little better although still a bit on the thick side.

3-28-13 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I woke up and the weather was horrid with onshore winds here in the Barb.   This usually means south wind of some kind and possibly offshore wind in Ventura.  I had a nasty head cold and just didn’t see enough to make me drag myself out of my warm bed.  I rolled back over and went to sleep.  Last night my Easter dinner party was a success.  16 people showed up, everyone I invited.  I did a four course meal starting with a Tomato Beef Navy bean soup that I was less then impressed by.  The second was a shrimp baked pasted dish that was phenomenal.  Third was tri tip, fingerling potatoes, and asparagus   Fourth was my family’s traditional Easter Cake that never comes out that beautiful to look at but tastes sensational.  

3-27-13 PM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 32
I love wind, high tide and small waves.  Oh Yeah!  I woke up and heard conditions were fat and small over at the Harbor.  My boy Ryan didn’t seem that enthusiastic thus I decided to stay in bed and wait for the other side of the tide in the hopes that New Jetty would be fun again.  I got down the Harbor right as the wind went from calm to SW completely destroying the some what decent looking sandbar at River Mouth.  New Jetty was clean, but no low enough and also not getting any swell.  I saw some waves at Emma from the freeway and figured to give that a go.  Worse case scenario it would kill time and allow the tide to drop a bit more.  I pulled up to Emma and there were three guys out and small but fun looking lefts coming in.  I got out there and sure enough the first twenty minutes were sick, lots of kill-able chest high bowls.  I had three lefts in a row that were easily 4 to 6 hitters.  The board felt a little better, but still its definitely too thick. Then after that flurry the tide got too low and the place completely turned off.  I managed a really clean fs reverse at  the end of the session and decided to back it on that.  All in all despite the conditions the water was crystal clear, sun shinning and just an all around good day to be on the beach.   I will take it.

3-26-13 AM Session: 2-4 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 33
There was a time where a morning surf meant 5:30am back when I was 15 till I was about 23.  Then it was anywhere from 6am to 7:30am any later than that and I hated myself.  After that I moved to California, Santa Barbara to be exact.  Here my morning went from 7:30 to anywhere form 8am to 10am.  These days I am lucky on a day off to get my lazy ass out of  bed on a day with shit surf before ten.  I mean shit waves are shit waves after all what does it matter what time you get up.  When the waves are good its crowded.  The California dream is a lie.  I think surfing we really good here back in the 50’s, but its been all down hill since.  Whatever I still surf really bad crowded waves most of the time and like it.  It certainly could be a lot worse.  I was not really expecting anything considering it was my day off and the surf always sucks on my days off.  I figured I would just roll to Emma and grovel for an hour to get some exercise and feel like I did something.  I got down there and the wind was light WSW and Emma looked weak at best with still bad sand.  I decided to check New Jetty figuring worse case scenario I would just go back to Emma.  Turns out New Jetty was pretty fun with a nice left bowl rolling in off the Jetty and a light crowd.  My new  board felt a little better but I still think its too thick.  

3-25-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
Trevor was claiming the Goldie and I being lazy and not caring about where to surf as long as I could sleep a bit longer and not have to scout out a spot showed up.  At first check it looked terrible, but with limited time and a boy out there I had to paddle.  As I put on my wettie I realized it was a bit better then I had thought.  There were some decent looking south sets showing.  I got out there and a flurry of good sets came in.  I got a sick deep as fuck FS tube I came out of only to turn around and watch Trevor get spit out of a sick one right behind it.  After that the wind came up, the tide got too low and it started closing out.  At least there was one wave worth something.  The water was really blue again.  I got hit by my board in the hip trying to stick a full rotation FS double grab air reverse that hurts like a bitch right now and I broke my leash.  This new board hates me.

3-24-13 AM Session: 1-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 45
I have no idea why I surfed the Lane.  I know why, its because when ever you are looking down on waves they look twice as good.  The crowd was light, conditions clean and it appeared there were fun little bowls up and down the reef.  Trevor and I paddled only to realize it was way smaller then we had thought and then a crew of annoying grommies showed up.  Some how I managed to get a ridiculous frontside tube that had the kids screaming and stuck a bs air reverse.  Besides that it was laughable.  Hey the water was clear blue and the sun shining so who really gives a fuck.  Beat not surfing.  

3-23-13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I heard conditions were average at best.  As for me I was pretty much incapacitated in the morning thanks to a very hard nigh out.  Its funny too cause I thought we were going to keep things mellow.  Then again that phrase is the last thing I remember of the night.  

3-22-13 AM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
Another bust that’s what I thought when I got to my apartment this morning and noticed the wind was already south.  I heard Santa Clause Lane and pretty much every short period spot in town fired last night.  Of course that did not do me shit since I was working.  Trevor woke me up and said if I didn’t come paddle he was going to have an intervention for me since I have not surfed in over a week.  I got to the Lane and I saw a few lefts and rights with a light crowd and semi clean conditions, side shore/offshore.  I had the new board and was pumped to get wet.  Turns out things were way trickier and shiftier then I would have liked and the tide borderline too low for the reef.  I had one good right and overall was just frustrated trying to learn a new stick in bad conditions.  Surfing fucking sucks and so do new boards,  Uggggg!

3-21-13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
It was windy and reports looks rather lack luster for the high tide morning.  I could have went to Emma for some marginal side shore grovel, but I had reason to stay warm and happy under the covers.  Tomorrow I will surf no matter what though.  

3-20-13 No Surfing: 1-2ft
This is getting ridiculous   I knew as soon as I picked up my new stick it would go absolutely flat.  Go figure.  With this shitty winter what should I have expected.  NOTHING!!!! Im so over it.  Looks like some south and NW wind swell to fill in over the next few days.  Another fucking weekend swell.  Surfing sucks don’t bother.  Went thrifting today, scored an Italian cashmere trench coat for 14 bucks, two really sick shirts for six bucks a piece, some good books and vinyl.  It was quite the score.

3-19-13 No Surfing: 1-2ft
I woke up, it was foggy, windy and cold out.  Trevor hit me up and told me checked everything to New Jetty and not to bother.  I pulled my covers over my head and went back to sleep.  When I woke up it was 2 pm.  Looks like the day comply got away from me.  Bizarro and I rolled to the farmers market for some blood oranges and 2 for sliders.  As it turns out they canceled the 2 for 1 sliders last week.  What a fucking bust that was.  I had to settle for two shitty frozen bean and cheese burritos.  Fucking sliders…boooooooooo hoooooooooo!

3-18-13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Sunday night was St. Patrick’s Day and I promised Bizarro I would go out despite feeling rather torn up from the weekend. I wore a grey suit with a green plaid tie and he wore a black suit with a bright lime green tie.  We looked dapper as all fuck.  Next morning I had to help a friend get her car out of impound leaving me no time to get in the water. 

3-17-13 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
Saturday night was pretty fun indeed. Took a out a new friend of mine and Bizarro rolled as usual.  On the way out of the bar we ran into the Colombian girls from a few weeks ago and some other friends of theirs.  Its not like Bizarro and I to ever turn down hosting an after party especially one that featured topless salsa dancing for all!!! After another night not getting to bed till late surfing was completely out of the question along with ending up being over and hour and half late to work.  WhoooooooooooooTTTT!!!!!!!!

3-16-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Talk about another crazy Friday night on the scene.  Bizarro and I both suited up and rendezvoused with Chantelle, Ashley, and Brianne at the Wild Cat.  What started as a usual night out became a shit show as usual with late night belt beatings and other insanity.  Last thing I remember was passing out watching Jurassic Park on VHS.  I heard there were some alright ones at New Jetty, but over all doubt I missed anything earth shattering.

3-15-13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
It was cold, foggy and buoys still looked small.  I had work at 11 am and was completely over surfing bad waves.  Instead I hunkered down under the covers with Alfie and enjoyed a morning off.  Plus I had to shave this crazy beard I had been growing for the past two weeks.  It almost ate my face.

3-14-13 AM Session: 1-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Talk about great moments in desperation   I was over it. Trevor wanted to paddle as we stood there at the waters edge looking into the tiny, windy, cold, foggy line up. The rule is if your boy is paddling your paddling too.  Thus that is what went down.  It was cold, terrible and miserable yet still felt good to get in the water.  Pizza and calzone night was a success.  I invited this cool chick I met Saturday night over and she showed up and meshed with the group rather nicely. Today marks the end of my spring break.  Back to the grid tomorrow.  Well it was a nice week while it lasted.  I feel very relaxed.  I talked to my mother the other day.  She informed me that Florida has been really good since Saturday, which is very ironic cause I was suppose to go visit my folks there this week, but opted to stay here instead.  Minus a really sick Rincon session the rest of the week has been nothing to throw a party for.  Oh well.

3-13-13 No Surfing: 1-2+ft
A very high tide, lack of swell and poor sand at all my small wave high tide spots left me completely over it this morning. It was a car surf for Trevor and I all the way to New Jetty and back.  I even made a last ditch effort to check Mesa Lane, which was also terrible and had bad sand cause with the right sand bar it might have been ride-able.  Instead I came home and made dough for Pizza and Calzone night at the Palace for Wednesday night dinner.  Did some laundry with this cheap ass detergent I got for 99 cents called Mountain Stream.  I am pretty sure I would never try and wash my close in some dirty ass, parasite filled mountain stream, but I really did like the picture on the side of the bottle.  For fucking 99 cents who gives a fuck.  I would buy a bottle called dirty Santa Barbara Harbor water for that fucking price

3-12-13 AM Session: 2-4 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
A Lisanti 20, that was all that session was worth.  Dramatic drop in the swell coupled with bad winds and a deep high tide left conditions far from desirable   Trevor and I saw a few nuggets roll in at the Jetty.  We drove so we paddled.  I had a few rights and my last left that were worth something.  Overall it was cold, foggy and generally miserable out there.  Still beats not surfing.  

3-11-13 PM Session 2: 1-2+ft, The Pit
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
I got some frustrating and confusing news on two different fronts of my life.  Not knowing how to handle it I decided to go for a surf  so that I can judge things more clearly.  I hit up Trevor who was down for another surf.  A three surf day! I can’t remember that last time something like that went down.  Mesa Lane was too low, The Coral Casino too small, Pit was the call.  It was very small and closed out.  I went into savage mode just frothing all over the place tearing apart whatever came my way.  I managed to get a wave or two.  When I got out of the water my head was clear and my problems well thought on.  I just realized that I can really be a selfish prick sometimes and my very sparse grasp on reality can cause me to not make the smartest decisions sometimes.  I am going to have to go with my heart on this one and see what happens.  Thus far that has for the most part been followed with adverse consequences.  After the surf Trevor and I cooked up a feast of Brisket, Mash potatoes and a small past and vegetable side for Bizarro, JP, Him and I. I am so tired now I feel like a grom again.

3-11-13 PM Session: 3-5 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
On the to Emma we noticed that there was still a fair amount of swell coming it at Rincon though it was fat and wobbly. On the way back it looked unreal. ‘Con would def be the after lunch choice.  Trevor and I hung out on the rocks digesting our food and resting just watching perfect Cove roll in with very little crowd.  My boy Trey rolled over and told us to get on it.  I was sold.  We jumped in at the same time as Bobby and Mike McCabe was already out.  I got out there and had my game face and battle armor on.  For whatever reason I went in to super aggression mode and caught more then my share of good ones, my best actually given to me when Bobby kicked out.  I would have to say 12 of my waves were more then 10 turns.  Trevor on the other hand was over the crowd and just drifted down the point. 

3-11-13 AM Session: 2-4 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 30
From the beach it looked like things had all the makings for a seriously fun Emma session.  Upon getting out there the cold water, strange bump on the face of the wave, back wash, shifty line up and bad sand all made for a less then stellar session. Trevor and I paddled and Ryan met us.  I ended up sticking a huge ally oop and had some really good rights.  It was Trevor’s favorite session of the day.  I could have taken it or left it.  After which we ran up to Westmont where a fellow cook was nice enough to smuggle us some of the food they were about to throw away from lunch.

3-10-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Woke up feeling refreshed from a mellow night out.  I thought I had woken up all early as hell till I texted Trevor and realized that we changed the clocks last night.  That’s cool, now we will be able to surf an hour longer in the evenings.  Swell and conditions were looking average, but we wanted to surf so we rolled down to the Harbor.  There was a trashy, wind blown left and right off New Jetty and a cool looking wedge at South Jetty.  We started on the wedge but that was very inconsistent and hard to line up.  It was not long before we were back a New Jetty.  You know what for as bad as the waves were it was somewhat fun.

3-9-13 PM Session: 2-3 ft, The Pit
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
I hate the fucking Pit, hands down has to be the worst wave in the entire world.  Its wonky, its weak, its dumpy, its closed out, its mushy, its shallow, there are random rocks all over the place, it is one of the dirtiest beaches water quality wise in all of California and there is random kelp patches all over the line up.  Sounds like a surfer’s paradise, oh and I forgot its usually always crowded too.  This is one of the closest waves to where I live.  Hooray for Santa Barbara surfing.  I woke all fucked up and very little recollection of what had happened the previous night.   I can tell how it happened, girls and the fucking bullshit mind games they like to play with men.  Whatever, so did I do?  I went to the liquor store and bought a handle of Bacardi and took a trip to fancy town.  I barely even remember leaving my apartment.  I must have threw an after party and a half judging from the number of glasses, severity of the mess and angry tantrum my bitch ass roommate threw deciding he does not want to live here anymore.  I am fine with it, he was a little cunt rag anyway.  I woke up on my little couch but it was pulled all the way back to the wall.  This other dude that has been frequenting my parties was passed out on my other couch.  From his recollection it was a pretty solid party.  Every drop of booze in the house was gone.  I got a call from Trevor and he was thinking El Cap since there was some wind swell on the buoy.  We got there and it looked pretty good from up high thus we hiked in.  Total skunking, upon coming out of the trail head onto the cobbles it was clear that there was no swell to be had.  “If only it had one more foot” we both mumbled.  Trevor only had a limited time and I had the shakes too bad to drive so we made a break for The Pit where of course there was a terrible wave to ride.  I got a few, but it definitely reminded me why I have not surfed that place in over a year.  

3-8-13 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
Thursday night became a party night at the Wild Cat that had me on a one way trip to fancy town.  Bizarro, Axcel, Alex and I rolled out to Savoy of all places to show support for our friend Ramon who is the new promoter over there.  Plus he was getting a bottle and free booze is free booze regardless of the club its at.  We hung till the bottled was killed then rolled over to the cat.  Way too many drinks later I woke up on my couch at 11 just in time to go to work.  From what I heard the swell completely dropped and the wind was bad.

3-7-13 AM Session: 5-7+ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
This morning marked the best session I have had this entire winter and it may have been the best swell we have seen here.  I knew from the way things were shaping up yesterday.  I got a text from Trevor early that Grave Yards was breaking and I have not seen that place break in years.  I ran down to Rincon but the lot was already full.  Knowing the sand has been really good at Pitas this season I decided to make it or break it there.  I pulled up the same time as my boys Ryan and Gordo showed.  Sure enough it was flawless head high to over head to nearly double overhead on the bombs.  I was a bit under gunned on my 5’10 but it was so perfect it did no really matter at first.  First 45 minutes was as good as it gets.  I was surfing the Faria section and just getting 300-500 yard runners. I am talking pure leg burners, so many turns I could not even keep track and then a sick little barrel section on the inside.  I jumped in at the top of the point and got out there just in time to scratch into a macker of a 10 foot wave.  I barely made it to the bottom before getting completely ensconced in the tube just barely making it out.  2nd wave I stuck a full rotation air reverse on the first section then kept killing it to the bottom of the point. What a fucking day.  Then the wind came up and it started to get a bit challenging and I took a few beatings.   So stoked.  If the wind didn’t come up I would have called out sick to work.  It was that good. I bet El Cap and Sand Bar broke.

3-6-13 PM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
I stepped out into m back yard to use the guest bathroom here at the palace and heard the roaring of waves down at Lead Better.  There was about an hour left of light and the winds seemed like they would be side shore/off shore.  I ran up to the Lane where sure enough there was a few little peaks running.  The crowd was a bit heavy for that spot and I was about to leave it alone when I saw another set that was just too good to drive away from.  I suited up and jumped in for a quickie.  I stuck one really good bs air and right at dark almost pulled an fs full rotation air reverse but boosted it into the dark and could not spot my landing thus coming down in the flats so hard I felt the vibration all through my body.  Its always refreshing to surf in town.  

3-6-13 AM Session: 4-6ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Oxnard Shores was the call, clean glassy overhead barrels claimed Pat.  I grabbed my shit and started cruising.  As I was passing Rincon I did the look back of death and could not believe my eyes.  A solid over head set marched through the cove with very few people on it.  I kept seeing more sets rolling in.  Excited I opted to use the illegal construction u-turn set up to allow the workers to get around the area faster.  No one was there and I did not see any cops.  I hit the turn at 40 mph and drifted it.  My tires bit on the bald side at the moment and they almost didn’t catch.  My heart was in my mouth hoping for the best as I side slid into on coming traffic.  Luckily my wheels caught right when I entered the left lane and I took off.  Looking back that most likely was not the best course of action, but it was firing.  I suited up frantically and got out there with enough time to grab two bombs through River Mouth before the wind came up from the south ruining it.  It was cloudy out and I thought maybe it would switch so rather then bagging it I moved into the Cove where although all torn up the right ones were still do-able.  Then after an hour it happened, the wind died and there was only about 15 guys out in the Cove.  I began to froth and managed to snag three really good 10+ turn rides.  Thanks to the angle of the swell from the bad wind it was definitely a goofy foot handicap out there.  Then the wind got bad again, then it got good again, then everyone including Bobby Martinez paddled, then the it got bad again and finally I was over it.  Not the best Rincon ever but fairly adequate to say the least.  

3-5-13 PM Session: 2-4ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 19
“Lets just go” said Brady.  Since we were still in our suits I complied, plus I really wanted to surf some more anyway.  We parked at the Bowl but it was kind of small, trashy and had some guys on it.  It looked marginally better on the North End so we ran up that way.  There were a few guys, Nick Rosza busted a huge fs air reverse he quit on and we joined the party. It was a bit softer then Shores but more make-able.  I managed two really good rights and somehow tweaked my knee a bit on a small fs air reverse gone wrong.  Overall though it was pretty shitty and probably should have cut my loses at The Shores.  Yeah…Surfing…Whoooo hoooo!

3-5-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves surfed: 16
I was up at 6:30 cause I had to take a piss.  Then again at 7:30 cause Trevor texted me, again at 8, 8:30.  Yet I did not get my lazy ass out of bed till fucking 9:30.  What do you want it was cold and cloudy out and I was far from motivated.  Finally I got a text from Ryan claiming Hollywood.  I hit Pat up and he was calling bull since there was not sand there at the moment.  I headed for the Oxnard beachies considering the size and tide.  A brief stop at Ventura Harbor proved that to be less then stellar and after yesterday’s slaughter I was not super eager for a sess there.  Then I pulled up to the Shores and sure enough there were some alright glassy corners rolling in. Stoked I hit up Pat and began putting my suit on.  In classic Oxnard fashion as soon a I got my zipper up so was the wind, WSW!  I was dressed and going no matter what.  Although textured there were still some lines.  By the time our friend Brady met us it was total trash.  Pat decided we should go to Silver Strand and see if it was better. 

3-4-13 AM Session: 4-6+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 3
I should have just payed the bum that was digging through the dumpster next to my building ten bucks to smack me in the face a few times with a 2×4 containing some rusty nails in it, cause that was pretty much the slaughtering I took out there today.  I woke up motivated for a surf after a relatively sober night at the Cat.  Unfortunately the wind was south tearing up all the points and the tide too low for some of the spots that could handle the wind.  I ended up at New Jetty where things looked very ride-able with some corners to be had.  Once I got out there I realized it was way bigger, way gnarlier and way less make-able then I thought.  Throw in some heavy rips and cold water and I basically got my ass kicked.  Out of the three waves I did catch two were straights and the last died out as soon as I got around the first section only to turn around and get cleaned up by a 15 wave clean up set.  When I came up from the beating I was on the beach and completely over it.  I did manage to find some sea glass on the walk back to my car with my tail between my legs.  Wait or was that just my over sized penis?  I guess the fortune cookie I woke up and found stuck to my back this morning (its a long story how my bed got full of fortune cookies) lied when it said “Today will be lucky and memorable for you”.  News flash today was not lucky cause when I showed up to work we were super short handed forcing me to not get a real break.  I missed a phone call I really wanted to take and I am still on the brink of financial ruin.  Fortune cookie you can suck my big fat hairy cock!

3-3-13 No Surfing: 3-4ft
Oh man another Saturday after party.  Take the usual suspects and throw in some Colombian girls and you have a fucking shit show.  There was drinking, there was dancing.  From what I heard things got really gnarly after I passed out around 4:30 since there was no more alcohol left.  I woke up at 11:30 still all fucked up and found my way into work,  Here is a reader challenge: Think you party hard, I want you to come out here and see if you can survive a week on the party scene with me. So far I am undefeated, although I do fore see a diet in my repertoire soon to come.  

3-2-13 No Surfing: 3-4+ft
Fuck I got hammered last night.  I must have drank a fifth and a half of rum last night.  Some how I did not black out but man was I sick as all fuck when I woke up this morning.  Can you say I have problem cause I sure can.  Nahhhh…if partying is a problem then I don’t want to know the solution.  The Rincon classic was on for the weekend meaning way more crowds and hoopla then I ever want to deal with.  Trevor said Emma was alright.  I don’t really feel like I missed anything.  

3-1-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Kooks Peak
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 27
There was some solid combo in the water and a mid tide with perfectly clean conditions this morning.  I was thinking about going to Rincon when Trevor came back with a report of too crowded and inconsistent and upon driving by I would have to agree.  We went to Emma but that was too low and all messed up.  I am afraid it is going to take some time for that sand bar to come back there.  I saw some good lefts at Kooks when I drove by so we headed back there.  Sure enough there were some glassy little bowls with only two guys out.   I lent Trevor my 6’3 step up after he got the last board I lent him stolen.  I really hope I don’t get burned twice.  Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.  I could not just let the guy go with out surfing.  That board is one of my baby’s I would really be bummed if he ruins it.  I had some really fun ones and god you could not ask for a more gorgeous day out.  Too bad I had to work the majority of it.  Hey at least I got some time in the waves and sun.