Surfing Ruined My Life

November 2015 Surf Sessions

11-30-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 11
Rincon was the call with the solid ground swell of course about 150 other surfers decided to make that call as well.  I found myself rather frustrated and over it.  On a last ditch effort I went to Hammonds since it was directly down the hill from work.  There was a chest to head high wave with a light enough crowd.  It was far from epic Hammonds, but fun enough.  For whatever reason I was vibing with  the conditions and managed to get all the best waves for the duration of my surf.

11-29-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 11
There was new swell in the water.  I had a limited amount of time and the tide was rather high.  Not wanting to fight a crowd I ended up surfing sub par Emma Wood.  It was a bit walled and inconsistent.  I did manage a left or two, but overall it was a pretty less then stellar surf.

11-28-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More flatness and more lack of motivation kept me over it this morning.  It was cold, windy and rainy.  I decided to sit on the couch and watch tv all day.

11-27-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Not much out there today or this month for that matter. Fuck you El Nino why have you not produced for us.  At least everything is going very well with my new girlfriend and I.

11-26-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Sliver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Trevor was calling offshore winds down south thus Bizarro and I headed to the beachies with the intent to get some photos.  Of course when we got there the wind was more south then east and quickly turned south west.  New Jetty looked like shit. We had seen some waves at Emma from the freeway and were going to go back there when I called Ryan who said that Strand had an alright wave.  We ended up paddling the Ship which was way more crowded and way less consistent then I would have liked.  I managed a few choice rights and left.  I think we got a few photos, but once again it was just another average surf at best.

11-25-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
The wind was super hard and swell rather small.  I was hoping for some possible local windswell either in town or at Rincon.   Both were small, Rincon was obnoxiously crowded for the lack of waves.  Over it I decided to get a jump on my Turkey Day preparations.  

11-24-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Another small day left me less then eager to get on it early.  I enjoyed a leisurely morning with my girl down in Ventura.  The wind was up and the tide low so I ruled out the beach breaks. Emma looked like shit.  I noticed a few at Rincon and pulled over for a closer look.  I figured at the very least I would go on a sea glass hunt.  There were a few inconsistent WNW chest high sets coming in.  The Cove was longboardered out but no one was up top.  I got a few waves and found some sea glass. Couldn’t ask for much more.

11-23-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It was my first morning waking up with my new lady since she got back from a week long trip.  The surfed looked small at best.  Why trade the time with her for a grovel?

11-22-15 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
I cruised south in search of something to ride despite the poor conditions.  My hope was for a little something at Emma though it was terrible.  I noticed the wind was off shore in Ventura thus ended up at the Harbor.  It was small there two.  There were few corners at the River Mouth and it may have been the better option if I had more time I decided to paddle New Jetty.  It was crowded though I managed a few waves in the bowl off the Jetty.  Nothing notable but was nice to surf.

11-21-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Trevor woke me up wanting to surf.  The reports were far from enthusiastic and I really wanted to bag it and sleep in.  I had not surfed or chilled with Trevor in a while so I decided to cruise to Emma and meet him.  Sure enough it was pretty fun looking and although the crowd was on it they seemed like just a bunch of weekend warriors rather then the assortment of rippers I had to deal with the previous day.  Right out of the gates the session was banging.  Then in the last fifteen the tide got too low and the wind turned strange.  Next thing I knew it was borderline unsurfable.  I once again managed to end on a pretty sweet little left hand barrel.

11-20-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
Last night got out of hand at around 2:30 am at the late night pizza joint.  After hours is always a bad idea.  Anyhow I got to bed late and couldn’t really sleep.  I got up around 9 and cruised to Emma for a few waves.  There was more NW in the water then the last few days and waves were everywhere.  Emma Looked decent though rather crowded.  I paddled thinking there was more then the amount of surfers coming in and it may have been during the tide change.  As low tide set in things really began to slow down.  Also the line up was shifty as all fuck, plus the crowd it was a shit fight out there.  Somehow I managed to snag a decent left hand barrel on my last one that made it all worth it.

11-19-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
The surf was down this morning and my motivation very low.  I was about to turn over in my bed when somehow I dug deep down inside myself remember what the Chris of years past would do.  I got out of bed grabbed my board and headed south with low expectations.  Yes it was small, but Emma had a few nuggets coming in with a very light crowd.  I paddle for an hour.  Unfortunately like yesterday it was still a bit weak and very inconsistent.  I managed a few three banger rights I was happy with though besides that marginal at best it was.

11-18-15 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
I was really hoping to get up to Jalama today.  There was a drop in the swell and the tide was sort of stagnant to high all day.  I had a certain right hander in mind and at the very least figured Cracks could be palatable.  Of course the wind was wailing out of the north up there tearing it to pieces.  Over it I cruised to Rincon, which was way too small and broken up for me to even consider.  Ryan said Strand was decent, but the wind was already turning as I checked Emma Wood causing me to believe it was only going to get harder thus I took the bird in the hand and paddled Emma.  I saw a few bowls come in off the Toll Booth Peak double up and barrel that had me amping.  Once out there it was way less consistent and weaker then I had originally thought.  I did grab the only really hallow right off the peak that came in during the session, pulled in, but just got clipped by the lip coming out.  Besides that I really never got anything worth mentioning.  Of course the wind completely died while I was out there meaning I could have went to Strand.  By the time I bailed the tide was too high and only getting higher.  I decided to bag hanging around Ventura for the next few hours in the hopes of a better tide and went home to the Barb.  I guess November has been the month of the never ending high tide.

11-17-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
After a quick look around the only real option I was left with the tide and wind was Rincon, the first spot I checked.  I figured it was my best bet, but I had to just rule out Emma.  My friend Daniel rolled with me and mixed it up at the top between low Indicator and River Mouth.  It was a bit slow, inconsistent and windswelly, but then again when is Santa Barbara not?  Still managed a few decent ones and even got a few lefts back toward the rocks one of which I got barreled on and another I stuck an fs air reverse literally on the rocks.  Somehow myself and my new board escaped unscathed.  Once again it was yet another marginal at best point session and not helping my lack of motivation.  I think I got spoiled with all the epic Oxnard sessions in the early season and since then everything else has just felt bla.  I am sure once I get a solid session in at Rincon my attitude will change.

11-16-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Work was a bitch last night.  I was short four guys and feeling less then on my game considering the previous night.  Partying is a tough racket.  Luckily with the direction my life is beginning to take I may be actually in a position to retire from the scene and move on with the rest of my life.  I man can dream…

11-15-15 No Surfing: 2-4 + ft
Last night got out of hand really fast.  It was suppose to be an entourage night at the Wild Cat. In the end it boiled down to myself Bizarro and Cody.  None the less we all dress fly and drink like fish. A few rum and cokes and a surprise double Rumplemeins shot later I was in full Fancytown.  On the way home Biz and I ran into a colleague of ours leading to a sun up after party at our place. Needless to say that when you go to bed at 5:30 am and have to work at noon there is not much time for surfing or sobering up before handling knives and hot items. Awesome!!!!

11-14-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I had a interesting evening and a rather splendid morning.  The surf was average at best and once again my motivation in bad conditions or even in general has been waning.  I’m not going to lie my time was spent better then getting angry and frustrated at crowded Emma Wood.

11-13-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
After a cameo at the Wild Cat, surviving a near death experience in the mosh pit at Velvet Jones and then a bout late night cooking I was not about to leave the comfort of my warm bed or its company for more less then stellar small tidey conditions.  Ryan got the Strand small but fun midday of course by then I had to be at work.  Fuck surfing its a gay sport anyway.

11-12-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
It was small and the tide was stupid high.  Biz and I made a rare Wednesday appearance at the Kitty.  I didn’t get drunk, but I also didn’t get to sleep till after three.  I just had no motivation to surf small shitty Emma Wood.  I guess El Nino is on a break.

11-11-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I may have blown a tad this morning thanks to lagging.  I was having a good morning chilling with some very wonderful company and time and wind got away from me.  I heard Strand was fun early, but I didn’t trust the steadily increasing onshores.  I decided to cruise to the points in search of cleaner conditions.  Emma was too drained.  I had a look at Pitas and there was a cleanish wave coming in up top and looked like there was even the occasional set through Faria.  I paddled and actually got a few fun ones up top and even snagged a couple of runners through Faria.  It wasn’t the biggest or the best, but no one was out.  I couldn’t complain.

11-10-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Figures the one morning I wake up in Ventura I have to drive back up to Rincon to get a surf in.  The wind was wailing all day.  This fall has been a windy one in general.   Weather wise it feels more like spring.  Everything was blown out making Rincon Cove the best option.  Although on the small side there were a couple of nice lines coming through and only three guys out when I checked it.  I paddled since I had not surfed in a few days and figured I might be pleasantly surprised.  It was a bit smaller. weaker and less consistent then I had hoped.  At around 3pm all the after school specials mobbed the line up with their trainers 30 strong making what was a poor to average session to begin with terrible.  I went up top, but it was all broken up there and not really any good.  I found myself back in the Cove battling it out with a bunch of prepubescent hyperactive gtoms before deciding to throw in the towel.  Still I managed to get a few off the pack.
11-9-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Last night sort of got out of hand courtesy of a fun night out.  I decided bring the new girl I have been seeing out with me to the Wild Cat, sort of for a debut.  We looked great and had a blast.  Afterwards we decided to go back to her house in Ventura since my apartment was a bit crowded with both Bizarro and my house guest Rochelle, who consequently used to live here at the Palace ten years ago.  I didn’t get to sleep till 5 and only really got about two hours collectively.  I didn’t have my car and literally showed up at Westmont in my suit from the night before.  It was a Chris Lisanti is a hot mess kind of morning.

11-8-15 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
After driving through the night, seeing a UFO (or a military missile test as “they” are calling it), almost plowing though ultimately drifting around a coyote and enjoying one of the best meals in a restaurant ever (Madelines, Cambria, CA) I was not about to wake up and go for a grovel.  Especially on a Sunday to boot.  Instead I slept in. Also I am still fighting off this bullshit cold I have not been able to shake for the past two weeks or so.

11-7-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Mill Creek, Big Sur
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I was really hoping to catch Big Sur River Mouth, but the rising NW swell decided to hold off and with the meager offerings I decided to save myself the mile and change hike in and just go to my usual Big Sur favorite, Mill Creek.  It was still rather small there as well, but I saw a few boost-able nugs and decided to paddle.  It was slower and smaller then I had surfed it in the past.  Still I found a few good ones and even managed a barrel or two.

11-6-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Moss Landing, Monterey
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 26
I had a thing going on up north I had to take care of.  While I was there I figured why not stop at one of my favorite beach  breaks in California for a quick session.  It was smaller then I would have liked but the wind was off shore and no one was out thus I decided why not paddle.  I got out there and found a few lefts and rights.  It was pretty fun till the wind turned more NW and then went completely shit.  Probably should have got on it earlier.  Oh well, such is life. Beat not surfing.

11-5-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
I decided to take the day off today and enjoy the beautiful weather.  I leisurely went about my morning checking the surf.  The wind swell from the previous day had completely dropped out and the NW ground swell was steadily fading as well.  On a whim I cruised to Silver Strand where it was also small.  I was thinking about driving away and checking Ventura Harbor. The wind was beginning to come up, the crowd was super light and it certainly looked fun enough.  I paddled the bowl for a little cause there were a few to many at the ship.  After about a half hour the crowd died and I was trading bowls at the ship with one other guy.  The tide push was really fun for an hour and then it completely turned off.  I had some fun ones.  Unfortunately I blew out my center fin box on an air attempt gone wrong. Luckily I had a brand new one waiting for me at J7. I will be up in the Monterey/Big Sur area for the next few days.
11-4-15 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
I had a date last night that I had been looking forward to for a little while.  Things went exceptionally well and I decided to bail on surfing for the day and revel in the bliss that was.

11-3-15 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Sand Spit
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 9
I really wanted to get in the water on my day off.  The wind was blowing crazy hard down the coast.  Ryan called and said the points were small and average.  I noticed some waves were breaking in front of my apartment big enough to make me think that Sand Bar may have a wave.  I checked it and sure enough though small it was clean and looking worth it.  I was lazy and didn’t really want to drive around for a lost cause so I paddled.  There were a few more heads on it then I would have liked and it was a tad smaller.  The trick to small Sand Bar is to wait for the occasional good ones and not waist time on the shit.  I only got nine waves but they were all nice little runners. Even small Sand Bar is still super fun.

11-2-15 No Surfing: 2-4+ ft
I ran into a new friend at the Wild Cat by random chance last night. As a result it ended up being a way later night then I had expected.  Needless to say I was a wreck in the morning and need to sleep a bit.

11-1-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Halloween insanity kept me up late and leaving me with a serious lack of motivation.  I heard it was pretty average anyway.