Surfing Ruined My Life

December 2014 Surf Sessions

12-31-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara Rivermouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
“Up in the club on a Tuesday” and man did that night get out of hand.  We were suppose to step out for a mellow night out and as usual that went south really fast thanks to shots and more shots.  Next thing I remember was walking up in my bed in my full suit still.  From what I heard I brought a group of French people over and Bizarro has a video of me drunkenly playing my sax at 3 am.  How the cops didn’t show up is beyond me.  Bizarro dragged my ass out of bed around 11 to go shoot.  I was too drunk to drive so he got us down to Ventura Harbor.  It wasn’t epic but there were some lefts and rights.  I was pretty fucked up out there and surfed like shit.  I hate surfing when I’m drunk and rarely do it.  Still we managed to get some keepers.  Now time to celebrate the New Year in style.  Those of you who are not being lame and staying in tonight, which appears to be he majority of the female population of Santa Barbara Happy New year and have a great time tonight.

12-30-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
After yesterday’s session Ryan and I were pumped to get more Santa Clara action at our sand bank.   Unfortunately the new swell decided to be in the form of wind swell leaving the channel all churned up. Ryan got a call that The Ship over at the Strand was chest to head high but a little junky.  It may have been, but there were some solid ones coming off the Jetty and in the bowl.  Ryan was over it.  I paddled and Bizarro and I shot.  It was a bit all over the place and washy.   I found some real gems off the jetty.  I got some real fucking beatings too.  We got some sick photos.  Dane was out, the Mc Cabe Bros were on it and so was Killian.  Look for the pics on my facebook page in the next few days.

12-29-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Another shocker of a surf session came about today courtesy of the River Mouth.  After yesterday I knew River Mouth was going to be the place today.  I wanted to get an early start, but of course the one night I decide to stay home from the bar with a lady friend (yeah it was my ex, so sue me.  Man, someone needs to come over here and hit me upside the head with a 2×4 before I get myself back where I started. Uggg!! What the fuck is wrong with me!) my idiot roommates decided to come with some dumb ass Austrian chick and keep me up all night long.   Now I know how JP used to feel.  Whatever…I ended up getting to the beach around 11 am and met Ryan up on the Dunes.   There were a few more guys on the peak I surfed yesterday.  Ryan and I would have made it a crowd of seven on a peck that could barely handle 3.  We ran down the beach a few ticks and found our own chill little bank.   Right now there are so many banks to choose from there is no point in crowding one.  We ended up trading fun lefts and rights for three hours.  I even managed to find a few tubes.  What can I say another super session on a day that should have been flat.

12-28-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 53
Wow I guess El Nino is on a break this week.  No bother I still managed to get mine today.  I had an intense morning debate on whether to go to Jalama again or just take my chances at Ventura Harbor.  The latter presided as a result of a bit more wind then I would have wanted and my sheer laziness.  I had a look and New Jetty had an alright wave, but was crowded with a few too many groms.  I had a look toward River Mouth and saw a mysto sand bar with a few guys out down by the reeds.  I decided to just suit up and go for it.  I was glad I did.  What was in front of me was this perfect little A-Frame with two guys on it.  The was a perfect bowl rolling into deep water and the right was a fast wall that ran down the sand bar.  When I paddled the two guys that were out there left and one other guy paddled with me.  He turned out to be a chill dude and we shared this perfect little bank all to ourselves for three hours.  They weren’t the best waves I have surfed, but I had a fucking blast.

12-27-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 34
Given the significant drop in swell for the first time in over a month I knew Jalama was my best bet especially when my boy Trevor said New Jetty was flat, where there is just about always a shit wave to surf.  I was about to leave for my surf when there was a knock at the door.  I opened it and this dude Sean I used to work with and chill with from time to time was standing looking rather grim.  He had burned me at work a few months ago so I was not enthralled to see him.  Turns out he had a bad go of things and had hit dire straights.  Why these people always come to me is yet to be seen.  Maybe I am a push over.  What was I going to do turn him away in his darkest hour?  That’s not my style so I did all ever know how to do, gave him the couch.  This time it comes with stipulations.  Dude has two weeks to get a job starting Jan 1 or he’s out.  Time will tell if I shall be wrong about yet another couch guy.  There have been failures, successes and pushes.  I left later then I wanted and had to run a few errands as well.  I got up there around noon and the wind was SSE, the tide super fat and waves less then I would have liked.  I made the walk to Cracks and passed Lindsay leaving on the way in.  She said there were sets not that it matter cause I already made the drive so I was surfing no matter what.  There were eight guys on it and not even enough waves for them.  I figured if I waited the tide out it could only get better. I remembered my book today after yesterdays skunking and got some reading done.  Finally around 2ish I was over waiting and got ready.  Curren’s older son and a friend were giving Tarantella’s a go to very little reward.  I paddled Cracks and although small and inconsistent I managed a few.  Stuck a little fs air reverse.  I suppose it beat not surfing.

12-26-14 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Talk about blowing my entire day for over an hour of surf time. What the fuck happened.  I left my house around 10ish hoping to get a fun high tide Emma Wood session followed by a burrito scarf down at Lalo’s then a super session at offshore Hollywood.  What ended up happening was me killing time in the parking lot of Emma watching absolute trash roll in.  Then I drove to Hollywood where I sat on the life guard tower at La Brea waiting for the tide to drop as I watched both the drop and the wind come up out of the North East.  On a last ditch effort I headed to Strand, which although windy had some bombers coming in by the Ship and in the Bowl.  Crowd was  on it, but there were plenty of waves.  I paddled at the Ship where the crowd was the lightest and began dropping into bomb after bomb.  I was for sure just a tad under gunned on my 5’10.  I actually managed some sick ones.  Was handed my share of beating too.

12-25-14 PM Session: 3-5 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Merry Christmas everyone I trust all of you found yourselves some bit of enjoyment today no matter how small it may have been.  As for me I chose to spend Christmas with my ex-girlfriend.  I know beware of the relapse, but she had no one this Holiday, her cat just died and I was all alone too.  Rather then getting black out drunk by myself at the Wild Cat I invited her over to spend the Holiday.  At the moment she is still one of the closest things to family I have out here.  Fuck she piratically became family.  We enjoyed a leisurely morning with a nice home cooked Lisanti Breakfast. Those of you who know what a Lisanti Breakfast entails knows it quite the treat.  After which I wanted to go for a surf and she decided to tag along.  We cruised south and Santa Claus Lane was going off, chest high and off shore and I should have just stopped there.  I had my eye on the prize of either scoring off shore Hollywood or Strand.  As always the wind changed right when I got there leaving me stuck surfing windy sub par Strand at the Ship.   There were plenty of weird death bowls to be had.  Some dude recognized me from this blog and when that happens I am never sure if it is going to go positive or negative.  I get everything from threats, to people spitting at me, one guy tried to drown, to other who are stoked.  This was a positive experience. Strand was definitely the best of the worst.  Now time to enjoy a Christmas dinner of filet mignon, bone in lamb chops over a mushroom risotto and asparagus.  Yummmmy!

12-24-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Cobbles
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
Somehow I let today get away from me.  I actually got up and was heading through Carp this morning when I got a call from Ryan telling me not to bother.  The tide was too high swamping most places.  I had plenty of random shit to take care of around my house and a small little private Christmas Eve dinner to prepare.  Around 2:30 I set out to look for some surf.  Traffic was shit and it took me an hour to get to Rincon which was packed as to be expected for a holiday.  I was just not in the mood to deal with a crowd.  Hobsons looked ok, but also packe, Kook’s peak was insanely crowded and did not look good at all.  Pitas had a good deal of cars parked around it and I thought things probably too small for the Faria section and the top is a pain in the ass if it’s busy.  I should have stopped and looked at Tanks.  Instead I wound up at Cobbles.  There around five guys out or so and although fast there were multiple sections of that controlled close out peeling.  I paddled.  The sets were totally more walled then I would have liked though I found a few corners.  It was far from the best session I have had, but it served it’s purpose for the mood I was in.  Later on I revisited my cioppino from Festivus and coupled it with herb roasted salmon over a bed of roasted sauteed spaghetti squash, tomatoes and a light balsamic glaze.  I must say it was a splendid dish and washed it down with a nice Sanoma Meritage.

12-23-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 27
Tide was an obnoxious 6+ft at around 9:30 making things rather annoying.  I had to be home from 1:30-3:30 to await the final shipment of my bedroom furniture set.  Relegated to a morning of high tide I had a look about.  Rincon was flooded but had an alright wave in the lower River Mouth section with not too many guys out I figured I would just paddle reap the benefits as the tide dropped.  As I was coming up the trail I sure Killian with Surf Happens Surf Camp and 30 groms in tow.  I didn’t know he gave up professional surfing to be a bus driver.  I was not about to deal with a pediatric froth fest.  I headed south to Emma Wood.  The crowd was average, but no one was really getting much even though there were bombs coming in everywhere.  It didn’t take long after paddling out to realize it was way tougher out there then I had anticipated.  There was lots of backwash and side wash riddling the line-up, a slight south current and sets shifting all over the place.  Finding a good one was a stretch and if you picked a bad one you got your ass handed to you.  I did manage three sick left pits that totally made it all worth it.  Then it was home to meet my new furniture. I was hoping they would come at 1:30 so I could surf again, but of course they came at 4pm.  After that I had to get ready to hose Festivus dinner at my pad for small but eager group.

12-22-14 PM Session 2: 4-6+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 11
The top of the point was solid, glassy, though a bit walled and a few too many guys on it.  I had a feeling the Faria section was going to be on.  I jumped in and the top was definitely too fast to deal with for my liking.  Brady was out going for Hail Marys all over the place.  I surfed my way down the point till I found the section I wanted to be on.  There is this white house with a pointed roof that I usually try to line up with down at Faria.  The point is so vast and shifty that if you don’t have a take off spot to shoot for it is very easy to spend your entire session frustrated and constantly out of position.  When the Faria section is just right it does a perfect impression of Kirra and today my friends that was exactly what was going down.  I was almost kicking myself that I burned up my arms and legs at C Street earlier.  I had a few real gems before the sun went down.  My timing was off all day today in the water as far as performance was concerned.  Can’t win em all.

12-22-14 PM Session 1: 5-7+ ft, C Street
time in Water: 1 hr 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 9
Holy shit I don’t know how many more amazing days of surfing I can handle.  Yeah, that’s a lie.  If anything I am almost half way square for all the garbage I had to endure the past two years out here.  I was going to get up for an morning session today, but of course my usual late night extracurricular activities kept me up until nearly 4 am.  Bizarro and I were invited to an after party up near Mission St.  We decided to hoof it trying to save on the cab.  By the time we got there I guess the party was near popped off.  Right off the bat Bizarro knew two of the four chicks that were among the dude fest. As a result of that we were quickly ushered out of the gathering.  I looked at all of them and said “you just fucked up and threw the wrong guys out of your party”.  They tried to back pedal when the girls tried to explain who we were.  At that point we were over it and kept walking.  I think we must have walked a good 8 miles all together last night.  When we got home I drunk cooked us a vegetable ragu over orzo.  I decided to sleep in.  Bizarro had to bail to San Diego leaving me the apartment to myself for the next week or so.  I was suppose to meet my new friend Mary Ashley at C Street for an afternoon session before she had to go to work.  I got there and to my surprise it was solid with nice long lines and very clean too considering the wind was on it a bit.  We paddled up at Stables figuring the shitty low tide current would have us down to the Cove before we got to the line up anyway.  I ended up picking off three that I connected all the way from Stables to the Pier.  I found one sick left going against the grain and a few other leg burners through the Cove.  My legs and arms were spent and I was starving thus it was time for a quick Lalo’s stop and then a Pitas run, which I was sure would be decent considering how C Street was.

12-21-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
I got this morning and with the early high tide I was in no rush.  Sunday afternoons are always more manageable with the crowds anyhow.  I hit up Ryan to see how the beaches were, but he was surfing C-street on his long board leaving me to believe it was not all that good down that way.  Lindsay wanted to surf and Bizarro wanted to shoot.  We all met up at Rincon, where we also ran into Trevor and his new girl friend.  It was far from good, but over looking around I decided to just paddle.  Unfortunately last nights wind really broke up the swell and it was all wonky, bumpy, dumpy, lumpy and sectiony.  I spent the bulk of my session around the River Mouth hunting for bull shit.  I got a few but it was very hard to read.  Somehow I managed to come out of little tube in the Cove ending things on a high note.

12-20-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Before I get into today’s surf I thought I might tell a tale of what goes occasionally on my walk home from the club.  Most nights its just a sloppy drunken stumble, but other nights a bit more adventure happens.  Last night feeling in a rather jovial mood on the walk home I decided to attempt to climb the old fig tree by the train station.  When I got up into it there were three girls and a bottle of vodka already up there.  Bizarro joined and a little tree party ensued.  Needless to say we got home later then usual.  God bless crazy Santa Barbara nights.  We got a late start, did a bit of thrifting before cruising to Naples.  The wind was on it, but I could see waves from the check hill.  Being it was Saturday and I was already north I decided why not just go for it.  I paddled Seals cause it was the cleanest with three other guys.  There were a few bombs, but with the wind and the very low tide things were a bit racy and walled over the reef.  Still I found a few despite the trash.  Funny thing actually one of the other guys out was one of the people from the SLO Land Conservation Corps who gave us a ride out of Point Sal back in the spring.  You can read about that adventure in the “Point Sat Idiot Mission” blog.

12-19-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 11
After a fun little night of drinking I some how managed to get up for an 8 am surf.  The buoys still looked good for the points so I checked Rincon.  I saw tons of decent ones up and down the point with a small crowd of all locals.  Stoked I ran back to my car and suited up.  I saw some solid sets in the Cove and started there.  That quickly became a lie as I milked a few gutless wonders to the freeway.  Over it I paddled to the lower River Mouth impossible section where I always find a little more juice on the small days.  It was pretty sour there too.  Then I went for River Mouth where although a tad better was super inconsistent.  Finally I settled for the inside Indicator hook over the rocks that really only breaks when its small.  I found a few there.  Overall though I should have just surfed Emma Wood.  Ryan scored Strand later while I had to go do some catering work for Trevor.

12-18-14 PM Session: 5-7+ ft, Hollywood by Sea
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
What fucking surf session I had this afternoon courtesy of not having to work and getting shit faced at the Wild Cat Christmas party last night.  I was feeling in the holiday spirit thus it was Rumple Minze shots for all.  I guess I blacked out around 12:30 am woke up in my tuxedo on the couch at around 8 am with my boy Cult passed out on the other one.  I had about a dozen missed calls and texts from Ryan that Hollywood was on.  Bizarro and I got our act together around 2 and headed to Oxnard to shoot.  What ensued was a fucking barrel fest.  I got some fucking bombs and found myself under gunned but killing it anyway.  It was a super session for sure.  Look for pictures soon.

12-17-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
First I want to thank a reader for their not so kind comments the other day. “Scrampy Bontonny” called me out on the fuck I have been the past few weeks choosing boozing of surfing.  You know what my friend you are absolutely right, I am being a kook.  I am going to try and turn things around cause I have been blowing, shit maybe for the last 4 years now.  Thanks again my friend for pointing it out.  As to the “life responsibilities” thing we choose the surroundings we place ourselves in.  I decided to pick surfing over a family.  I can’t say which is more rewarding cause I don’t know the other side of the coin.  To each their own.  I woke up this morning feeling very sore.  The wet, damp, cold weather often does that to me and helps remind me of injuries from the past.  My shoulder was feeling a bit strange, though I recently acquired a new suit from Mike since he left on another Australia/Bali run and did not need a new suit.  I have not broken it in yet and the past two days though I had not caught lots of wave ended up doing lots of paddling.  The buoys looked average and after looking at the meager offerings at Lead Better out my kitchen window I decided I would have to go south for some waves.  Rincon was my first stop and although pretty wonky, windy and sectiony the crowd was light and Ryan confirmed further south was not any better thus I paddled.  The cove was the cleanest although a tad bigger up top.  I blew my first four fucking waves.  Maybe I had gotten used to riding my 6’1 and not my 5’10.  Then my 5th was a gem through to the freeway.  Unfortunately the crowd began to increase exponentially till I found myself in a pack of fifty or so and fighting for scraps.  It was far too inconsistent for that kind of crowd.  The only thing we had going for us was that it was pretty sectiony and a fair amount of bump creating a higher then usually margin of error.  I had a few sick ones, but ultimately I let the crowd get the best of me, got frustrated and went home.

12-16-14 AM Session: Rincon, 6-8 ft, Occ. 10+ ft
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 3
The number might be small but all three of those waves were serious keepers.  Rincon was solid with double over head bomb sets.  I paddled my 6’1 again out at the Cove.  Unfortunately the crowd was super heavy and sets a bit on the inconsistent side.  It was one of those frustrating surfs where no matter how deep you were there was always someone deeper and it was perfect enough that everyone was making their waves thus there was no margin of error. I was stoked for the few I got.  Unfortunately I had a small window to surf thanks to a furniture delivery of my new bedroom set.  About time I got some real furniture.  Of course my mattress was back ordered so I am still sleeping on my old roommate’s dilapidated full size.  Man two days on my big board, I must say this season is shaping up to be all time after all.

12-15-14 AM Session: 6-8 ft occ. 10 + ft, Cstreet
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 5
Amazing how C Street and everything south was off the charts and everything north was tiny.  I woke up and had a look at the cam and I thought maybe I was hallucinating cause the buoy definitely wasn’t indicating what was happening.  As much as I am not a fan of that spot, when its big and on it is very hard to pass up.  Sure enough when I got there it was about as good as the cam.  I ran into my boy Garrett in the parking lot and he advised I take out my step up.  Considering the sets I was not opposed to having more foam under me, plus I wanted to try out the board any how having not gotten it wet yet since I bought it back in July.  I got out there and lucked into a bomb that was just a little wide for the pack.  I got in super late but my board let me in with ease.  Unfortunately I mistimed a hit not knowing my board yet and got swallowed on the re-entry.  Luckily I got sucked down and out the back and dragged down the point.  Next wave I got was another sicky bomb that I manged to hit around ten times before it closed out way down near Stables.  After that the wind sort of went more south and the sets became way less consistent with the dropping tide.  The crowded tripled as well.  I floated around not getting shit for the bulk of the surf.  Hey the ones I did get were pretty sick.  I almost wish I had taken my regular board out so I could have scrapped the inside rather then fighting for set waves.

12-14-14 No Surfing: 4-5 +ft
Another stupid night of party had me blacked out and Bizarro literally carrying me home the last 100 yards.  Alright I had my post ex drinking moment.  From this weekend on I am going to try and calm down a bit.  Definitely surfing tomorrow.

12-13-14 No Surfing: 4-7+ ft
The water was still pretty shitty looking, browner then ever.  Plus on top of that I found myself feeling the effects of partying with a street pull of three bomb shell blondes from San Diego.  All I can say is a decent time was had by all thus I didn’t make it to bed till 4am. Work was work.  Hopefully the ocean will clean up a bit more tomorrow so I can get a surf in.

2-12-14 No Surfing: 5-7+ ft
Talk about brown town out there.  I am not going to lie I definitely went a little to hard at the Wild Cat as well the night before.  What can I say, they had a special on Rumbleman shots.  Good fucking times.

2-11-14 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Hosbsons
Time in Water: 1 hr 
Waves Surfed: 13
I know I hate posting the number 13 ever.   My twelfth wave was a right hand bomb that ran down the reef perfectly.  I was going to quit on that, but I was a little out of the safe area to climb up the sea wall so I snagged a left to get back to where I wanted to be thus the 13th wave.   What a crazy surf.  I woke up and the wind was all south and bull shit in front of my house.  I was going to bag it when Ryan called and said Ventura was offshore.  I cruised and sure enough Hobsons was firing.  It was well over head on the sets with good lefts and rights.  There only about seven takers or so.  I should have taken my bigger board, but like an idiot I surfed way way under gunned on my 5’10.  Whatever I made the most of it.

2-10-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I didn’t really know what to do this morning nor was I all that motivated.  I have been in a strange mood this week.  I think the whole breaking up with my girl friend situation has finally set in and me being single is now actually a reality and I am not quite sure how I feel about.  At the moment I am just sort of in a confused emotional fall out.  I was about to leave when I remembered that I had to proof read JP’s paper for him thus losing about an hour.  I decided to look at Hammonds and figure out my day from there.  A large part of me was still hoping to just go back to Naples.  Hammonds was a little bigger then yesterday and twice as crowded.  Over it I decided in my recluse state that Naples it was.  Ryan was down and we met up and went for the hike.  Sure enough upon looking at Seals from the bluff our efforts were rewarded with some fun looking lines.  We surfed up at the Crack Peak with a few other guys except today there were plenty of waves for all of us.  I was on sticking all sorts of turns.  I had a left that I did a sick round house rebound right into the barrel.  I had a draining bs tube over dry reef that was nuts.  My last wave was an over head bomb I got into super late, air dropped to the flats, recovered with a rail grab bottom turn, found myself going vertical on my next three turns, then a big section floater, then another four sick turns.  Then I hit the close out foam ball and noticed the wave reformed going left thus I hit it another few times going left before ending up on dry reef.  What a day of surfing.  Whooooot!!!!!

2-9-14 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
The swell was coming in rather west this morning.  I had my eyes set on Naples from yesterday.  I got up drove to Hammonds, which although a little fat with the tide had some solid lines rolling through.  I was about to paddle it when Ryan called me and said he was on his way to Naples.  I met him and we made the hike in.  Of course when we got there the wind had turned south.  Between that and the tide it was basically not surf-able. I had faith in things picking up thus we hung around.  Around 2pm things picked up and we paddled the Crack Peak.  Although not as good as I had hoped there were still some nuggets.  The crowd was a bit heavy for what was coming in and it was on the inconsistent side.  The sun glare was terrible.  It was so bright I felt like someone blew up a flash grenade.  By the end of the surf I thought my eyes had been burned out of my sockets.  Not the best Naples day ever, but still a good day none the less.

2-8-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Wow I guess I blacked out last night.  Oh well it was fine cause the surf sucked anyway. Looks like some real swell for the rest of the week so I am going to have to take it easy this coming weekend thought partying has become like a second job again. I did absolutely nothing at work today.  Whatevers…

2-7-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
How Bizarro and I managed to rally to get to the bar after the previous night is beyond me.  All I can say kids is that we are professionals and I would not recommend trying it at home.  Anyhow I decided to give my body some well deserved and need rest and gave the morning surf to the weekend warriors.  Plus I have scored so much good surf in the past six weeks that I far from jones’n.

2-6-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Well what can I say for myself besides the fact that what was suppose to be a mellow night went from about 25% of the party scale to about 80% in a matter of thirty minutes.  A certain friend of mine recently came into some money and was out celebrating.  A promise of a snowy after party was made.  Tis the season after all, plus I was particularly feeling in the holiday spirit when such festivities are on the table.  Of course it never materialized and all were we left with was a 24 pack of bud light and some stale wine.  The result of which had me not getting to sleep till 9 am.  There was no way I was surfing and my work day was absolute shit.

2-5-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Don’t ask me how I managed to get up and surf this morning after how fucked up I got last night.  Maybe that extra shot of brandy before going out was a bad idea.  All I know is that I as fucked up by the time I got to the Wild Cat I was in full fledged fancytown so much so that I was no good to myself or anyone else for that matter.  Bizarro blacked out I have no idea why I didn’t other then the fact that I didn’t drink too much at the club cause I was already so fucked up.  I got up this morning and my kitchen was trashed.  Apparently Bizarro tried to cook himself some eggs in my cast iron pan.  We are lucky he didn’t burn the palace down.  I went to Emma for a quick smash and grab.  Turns out it was solid with some pretty killer barrels.  Multiple peaks were working.  I had a blast and surfed pretty well hang over considered.

2-4-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
I hit up Ryan who was in Santa Barbara anyway for a work thing and told him to meet me at Naples.  He checked it from the hill and confirmed there were lines.  We made the 2.5 mile trek down the train tracks.  When we got there Seals was tiny and The Crack Peak was a bit smaller then I had hoped.  The tide was pretty drained and about to come back in so we were hopeful for it to turn around.  As soon as we got out there sets started to show.  The two of us traded perfect 50-150 yard rights till dark.  It was an onslaught of killer backside surfing.  I had a few crazy tubes there too.  The sun was setting, the full moon was rising and the waves were still pumping and Ryan and I were the only two humans in sight.  I felt like I was back in New Zealand again.  God bless Naples.  The walk back in the dark sucked.  After Naples I stopped by Costco for the $1.50 hot dog soda deal.  Cant be that shit.  Then I went to Ross and bought myself some boss ass ties and finalized my New Years out fit.  Fuck that stupid bitch who stood me up yesterday.  It was her fucking loss cause while she is sitting at home being a basic bitch I am out living life to its fullest.

12-4-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
“Oh man my favorite number is 23…I got my J’s on!”  Twenty three mother fucking leg burners at Rincon and some sick ass fucking barrels.  I mean everyone was getting barreled.  Every so often Rincon has these days where the tide is just right, and the swell is too.  Then every section becomes a draining barrel.  The funny thing is when I first checked it I almost bailed for the beachies down south.  Then Ryan kind of gave an average report and rather then burn up gas for only marginally better waves plus an inkling that the Cove might get all time with less tide I paddled.  Did I mention the crowd was light and 90% locals.  That never happens.  Later I heard pretty much everywhere in Southern California was going off keeping the crowds spread out.  I started up at Low Indicator/High River Mouth and found some sick ones. Whatever weird windswelly wonkiness that was turning me off while checking it had totally dissipated meanwhile perfect long, clean, groomed lines were rolling in with BARRELS!  I did some serious damage up top with one bs reo that was so gnarly I rode it out fakie before nailing another three turns after it.  My best wave was in the Cove.  This solid set wave came it me and stood up nicely.  I did three big hits. On the fourth I got hung up in the lip and was about to loose the barrel section of the day.  Determined not to be defeated I ollied off the lip six feel down into the pit.  I landed really flat, but luckily all the tail rocker in my new J7 Mad Max Model (shameless plug) allowed me to high pump into the tube where I managed to ride the foam ball for 100 yards.  I was about to come out near the freeway when some idiot burned me.  Whatever It was still one of the best barrels I have ever gotten at Rincon.  I had a feeling that some of my favorite Gaviota waves might be fun so I bailed around 1 pm.  I felt like a gluten by then anyhow I had caught so many good waves.

12-3-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
I woke up to a text from my boy Angers, who I had not heard from in a while that Strand looked fun.  I was heading there when I saw a solid set break at Rincon and despite the south wind it was clean.  Hoping it was one of those days where it just keeps getting better and the crowd in the dark about it I turned around.  Mike met me as well.  The wind fluctuated from South to dead, but the chop never really subsided.  I had a few good ones but over all it was tough and I wished I was at Strand.  I would have ran down there for the afternoon surf, but I was suppose to have a date back in SB.  Of course I was once again stood up. I just don’t get the rudeness of people today.  If you don’t want to go out then don’t make the date.  Otherwise at least have the common courtesy to show up.  Whatever.  This is why I never have resorted to internet dating and as of today I am back to meeting people the old fashioned way, in person.

12-2-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Pouring rain and small conditions were certainly not worth getting Hepatitis over it.  Today was the President’s dinner at the DC.  That means prime rib and salmon for everyone and a big mother fucking headache for me.  Chef and I got in a fight over my fruit platter ability.  Ultimately the night went off with out a hitch. I should not have lost my cool like I did.

12-1-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Small surf and other things to do around the apartment left me bagging the surf.  I got home and the power was off in my apartment.  Turns out my ex scheduled the shut off by accident.  One finally screwing?  With no power Bizarro and I did the only logical thing: we put on our suits and went to the Wild Cat.