Surfing Ruined My Life

July 2015 Surfing Sessions

7-31-15 No Surfing: 2-4 + ft
As usual the precedent that if I leave California there will be waves held true once again.  While I groveled for five days in New Jersey my boys in California took advantage of some solid south swell.  Of course when I left Jersey they enjoyed two fun days of chest high off shore winds.  Go figure.  I had a full day of traveling ahead of me and the waves in the morning were a bit too fat with the tide to surf.  Thus I bagged it.

7-30-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, South End Surfers, Spring Lake, NJ
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 53
The wind had blow last night and into the day.  I forgot that it takes weather to have waves in New Jersey.  Sure enough a cloudy day with hard south east winds will do the trick.  Nick met me and we cruised to Spring Lake in search of a session.  It was side shore with some solid chest high peaks coming in up and down the beach with no one out.  We paddled and started dismantling peaks.  I forgot how much stoke it is to surf with Nick.  He is the only person I have ever met that can keep up with me and then some.  Usually it is I who gets tired in his stead.  We ripped the shit out of the meager offerings, which turned out to be quite fun.  So much so that another ten guys decided to paddled.  We out lasted them with the current on the peak over an hour.  Good times. 
7-29-15 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Kooks Bay, Spring Lake, NJ
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Damn I got fucked up last night. As it turns out I arrived back in town just in time for our annual fair.  A few friends of mine were rolling to the beer tent they set up there and I joined.  Lets just say a few beers, a rumplemeins shot and two rum and cokes later I was good and blacked out.  I was bit behind the eight ball in the water this morning and the very weak tiny waves didn’t help my case.  Over it and not really feeling it I sort of floated around and just hung out out the back taking the odd ball waist high junk.  Meanwhile California has been enjoying a rather solid south.  Can’t wait to get back home.  Jersey has been fun but I’m over it.
7-28-15 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Kooks Bay, Spring Lake, NJ
Time in Water: 1.5
Waves Surfed: 45
Oh lord talk about a full on grovel fest of a froth.  I forgot how much easier it is to catch waves on the east coast then in California. There were just waves every where.  Nothing notable of course but lots and lots of little kill-able background swell.  Thanks to my old buddy Nick who picked me, sorted out a board and suit and took me surfing.  I guess he had a lesson over there.  It was far from good and I had to learn a different board, but it was fun just to be a grom at home again.

7-27-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
I woke up bright and early this morning and headed south with the intention of getting a few waves before my flight.  I always believe in getting a surf in before any type of travel.  It just puts one in a better state of mind and if you happen to die some unforeseen tragedy at least you got a few waves before hand.  With that in mind I paddled New Jetty where there appeared to be a fun looking chest plus wave coming in clean with a few guys out.  When I got out there I found it to be rather inconsistent and much weaker then it looked.  The few guys that were out were all regulars and all pretty scrappy making getting waves tough.  After twenty minutes the crowd doubled and kept growing till I left.  I had a few, but ultimately I never got anything worth while.  Ryan and Gordo were about to paddle and I steered them toward River Mouth and from what I heard they had a good time.

7-26-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Hoping for more fun south swell action since today was suppose to be the peak I woke up bright and early to beat the crowds.  The wind decided to wake up bright and early out of the south destroying everything.  I wanted to get wet and headed toward Emma Wood.  When I got there there were some fun bowls on the north peak.  It was a bit crowded mostly with groms and there were plenty of peaks to be had.  South is semi side shore off shore there.  The surf was way weaker then it looked and the wind turned more west destroying what little was on offer.  Emma always offers something to rip.  Still once again better then not surfing.
7-25-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Ryan and I went to a little shin dig his chiropractor was throwing in Ventura.  Afterward we had another look at the waves.  The wind had got on it but the crowd left and the sets were still solid.  We paddled.  Unfortunately the wind continued to get harder and conditions worse.  I did manage a few good ones but overall I mostly just got battered by the sun.  It beat not surfing though.
7-25-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
The swell was suppose to be bit more up today.  From the looks of things there was mostly wind swell with the occasional long period south set.  Ryan and I paddled at New Jetty where there were some nice left lines coming in with clean conditions and a light crowd.  We knew neither of these were going last especially on a Saturday.  Sure enough before we even got changed another ten guys paddled and once such precedent was set it just kept up till the line up was so crowded there had to be 50 guys spread between New Jetty and South Jetty.  Despite the crowd I still managed a few good ones and even found a tube or two. It was so packed I accidentally slapped some kid in the face while turning around for a last minute right.  Why is surfing so popular?
7-24-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33

I was pleasantly surprised by the waves this morning not expecting too much more then some scrubby wind swell and some background south.  Sure enough there were waves coming in up and down the beach at the Jetty.  There was a light south west wind that is never really a problem out there and a light crowd.  Ryan, Kevin and I paddled and were joined by Phil and the four of us kept the Jetty peak under raps, while Killian and a few other pros held down the middle peak.  I was having a great time till I broke put my center fin on a massive air.  Luckily I had a replacement set in the car except that I steadily realized that I have the FCS 2 system on my board and the fins I had were old school fcs.  this is not a problem if you have screws, which I did not.  I threw a brief parking lot tantrum till I remember that Ryan was riding his Merrick “5” model as a thruster meaning he had two empty fin boxes with screws. I ran back up the beach, borrowed his screws and was back out there.  I must say it was a rather fun surf.

7-23-15 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves surfed: 40
This morning was yet another morning where I was pleasantly surprised.  The buoys had little more on them then a slight background south.  Conditions were clean again thanks to a healthy marine layer and I saw a few waist high ones come through on the cam.  With nothing to really do except cook an Italian meal for my girlfriend’s friends.  I cruised with low expectations ready to grovel.  When I got to the Harbor sure enough there were some waist to stomach high lines coming in off the Jetty and in the middle of the beach.  The crowd was minimal for that wave.  I paddled, Ryan met me up and our friend Kevin was out getting a few.  I don’t know if it was just a gas to surf with two of my friends in little conditions and feel like groms again or what but I had blast out there.  I even threw down a couple massive airs.  My stick ratio was low cause I was riding one of my older boards since my current one needs some ding repair.  Ultimately the session was ended by some onshore wind and the rising tide, but by then we had all had our fill. 
7-22-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 45
I wasn’t expecting much more then a grovel this morning. The buoys had nothing but a very minor background south on them and the cams looked rather pathetic.  I wanted to get wet and figured I would head down south for the tide push and grovel for an hour.  When I got to the Harbor I was pleasantly surprised with some fun looked waist to chest high bowls rolling through with glass conditions and a very light crowd at both River Mouth and New Jetty.  New Jetty looked a slight bit better, but I am sure if I paddled and began making it look fun it would have taken long for others to follow.  I paddled River Mouth where there was no shortage of empty waves.  My boy Robbie and two of his friends were the only other guys out and we made the most of what was on offer.  I ended up having one of the better surfs of the week.

7-21-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 31
After yesterday you can bet your ass that I was not going back to Jalama. The sand needs to move around a bit or there needs to be a solid swell.  The place is definitely set up for a macker.  Instead there was still some left overs coming through at Ventura Harbor and I cruised down that way for incoming.  I should have showed up about an hour earlier cause as the tide filled in thinks got super slow.  It appears River Mouth is finally looking like a glimpse of it’s former self.  Still I managed a few fun ones.  Boosted a couple of airs.  Fuck it was 100 times more fun then what I surfed yesterday.  Ryan said Ventura was good all day.  Jalama was a bad call yesterday.  I may have saved ten bucks in gas, but I lost a solid day of surfing. I hate “Sofie’s Choice” situations.
7-20-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
More heart ache led to a forced paddled after the dropping tide only allowed conditions to improve marginally from the morning.  Daniel and I made the most of the mushy, windy, gutless conditions.  We were joined by two other desperate souls or partners in misery as I like to think of them.  I had a few but ultimately I never got that one wave that made it all worth while.  The highlight of the whole day for me was the Jalama burger on the way out and that my girl decided to come over and stay the night.  Fuck surfing its a terrible waste of time.
7-20-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Talk about a royal skunking courtesy of both Tropical Storm Dolores and Surfline.com.  What a let the entire swell was for me.  I did get a few average session but nothing that really got me excited.  Daniel called me and said he was going up to the “J” and since he was driving I decided to save my gas and jump in with him.  Jalama is never that bad on a swell anyhow.  I was wrong.  Instead of the light variable wind as Surfline was calling for it was hard side shore out the the south and when the wind is like that the kelp doesn’t do shit. Next the sand bar at Cracks is set up super shitty at the moment.  As a result of the swell being so short period and steep the waves that were coming in were totally mush burgers, weak as fuck and all of the lefts were going out to sea, while the rights were being blown to pieces by the wind.  Add on a mid day high tide and you had a real boner killer.  I attempted a few before the tide go so high it made it nearly un-ride-able.  Rather then exult myself to any further frustration I opted to go into the beach and have a sit down till conditions improved.
7-19-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 32
Fuck weekends and surfing and fuck when surfline blows up a sorry excuse for a tropical swell and gives an inflated report.  Everything was crowded and small.  South of C Street was all blown out and north was clean and tiny.  On a last ditch effort my boy Daniel and I decided to paddled the south end of Gold Coast right at the mouth of Emma Wood.  Though on the small side there were some solid lefts coming through that despite there size had some spunk.  The crowd was a bit annoying but I definitely got mine.  Shit I even nailed a few sick little boosts and a few head dips.  I had a good time.  Ryan said River Mouth was fun in the afternoon.  I had promised my lady that the afternoon was going to be for us to spend together.  I have been getting plenty of waves anyhow.
7-18-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 47
The best River Mouth of the summer and it was far from what I would call epic River Mouth.  I think we are finally seeing some decent sand out there since early spring.  When I first showed up it was glassy but drained.  Still there were plenty of kill-able peaks and the crowd was rather spread out.  The current was a bit annoying so rather then fight it I just drifted down along all the different peaks till I got to no mans land, got out and ran down the beach to do it again.  I ended up finding a few sickies though most were a bit too racy to offer much more then a mad dash down the line.  I did score two or three sick barrels worth mentioning and overall felt I had a solid command over the session. I saw another shark fin come zooming by me.  Once again it was small and I didn’t allow myself to be alarmed. Eventually the party was ended by the wind.  I heard from Ryan later that Oxnard Shores went off just before dark.  Unfortunately for me I was busy cooking beef sliders for some bullshit wedding in the Valley.

7-17-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr 10 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
My day was super busy with chores that needed to get done with my girl friend.  There was a lot to do with some significance to a few of the tasks that needed completion. I was not even sure I was going to be able sneak in a surf at all.  I heard River Mouth was peaky and fun in the morning.  Luckily some of our ordeal was down in Ventura and with about two hours to spare I was able to sneak in a surf at New Jetty.  Despite the onshore wind there were some solid chest plus sets coming in off the Jetty. A rip fest ensued.  There were these two baby great white sharks about four to five feet long launching out of the water about a few 100 yards outside of the line up. I don’t know if they were trying to get seagulls or what but it was pretty nuts.  I was going to paddle in when one of the guys out said that it has been happening all summer and not to worry.  I figured they were too small to want to fuck with me any way.

7-16-15 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
I blew it this morning.  Last night was not the best night for me personally.  A lot of bull shit arose out of nothing keeping me awake and then in the morning it was a continuation of the same.  I almost bagged surfing altogether.  For whatever reason I was hopping the tropical swell would show at Rincon.  Indicator was tiny.  With little time I cruised to Emma. but it was too low.  Ultimately I found some waves off of the break wall entrance to Emma Wood at the most southern end of Gold Coast, which does like tropical swells.  It wasn’t big but there were perfect little left wedges coming through.  If it were four feet bigger it would have been all time.  It beat not surfing.  The water was a little colder then I would have liked also. Later I heard from Ryan that Santa Clara River Mouth was head high and super fun.

7-15-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
I think I surf River Mouth once a week just to remind me how terrible the sand bar is there right now and that I should surf anywhere else at all costs if I want to actually have fun.  New Jetty looked super fun, but also really crowded.  Two different surf trainers had their subsequent groups of groms out totaling around 12, plus about another ten randoms spread out.  There were only a few peaks, the best off the Jetty and every good wave had at least four guys paddling for it.  I was not in the mood for a surf competition especially at a marginal wave like New Jetty.  There were a few bowls at River Mouth in front of the sand cliff.  I knew it wasn’t going to be great though more then a few times I have went to River Mouth with low expectations and had a ball.  Worst case scenario whatever did come in would be all mine.  It was absolute crap.  Too much wind swell was over powering the south making for closed out racy lines.  The light SW wind add a bit of annoying bump making it even harder to get a good turn off on the crumbly face.  Finally the wind swung completely around NW with the advent of the sun burning off the marine layer and that was that.  I didn’t get one wave worth spit.  A complete waste of a surf.  I guess I should have fought the crowd or went to Emma like yesterday.  Looks like some new tropical swell is suppose make its presence over the next few days.  Stay tuned for how that pans out.

7-14-15 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 59
I guess I will always have an affinity for 2 foot absolute garbage Emma Wood.  Maybe it reminds me of all the crap I have had to endure growing up in the north east or all of the shitty venues I have been forced to paddle out at in search of points.  Or maybe it is just that when I surf tiny bull shit it reminds me of being a grom again.  Also I happen to surf my best in the worst conditions possible.  What ever the case today just felt like a splendid summer day back home in New Jersey.  It was hot, muggy, cloudy and small.  For whatever reason I decided to surf the fuck out of the meager offerings of minimal wind swell and fading south swell.  Emma was the best of the worst for me.  The Harbor may have been slightly better, but it had lots of wind on it and New Jetty looked weak as shit with a dumb crowd.  Oh man and we thought last summer was shitty.
7-13-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Why I hung around for a second session is beyond me other then the fact that it was a nice day at the beach and I had small hope that it would glass off before dark.  That hope steadily ran out and I was about to bail till my boy Saxon showed up and paddled.  Since my suit was dry and I was there any how I decided to join him.  The higher tide had actually given the waves a bit more lip then in the morning and I was just more on point.  Maybe I adjusted to the shit finally.  I was starting to get in a real ryhthm when Saxon claimed he spotted a shark and a large one at that.  That dude lives up there and surfs it way more then I do so if something spooks him enough to bail I am right behind.  The surf was definitely not good enough to risk getting eaten for.  I probably should have just went to Lowers a plan I was mulling over while laying in bed this morning.
7-13-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Ventura had minimal surf on the cam meanwhile Jalama still looked solid and the wind on the semi light side.  Up north I cruised only to find that it was blown to shit when I arrived.  Adding injury to insult a Santa Barbara surf camp decided to show up with a van full of about 15 kids who had just about clogged all of Cracks.  Tarantellas was shit.  I decided to read a bit and wait out the crowd.  After about two chapters the kiddies had left leaving me an empty line up.  I paddled and one other dude joined me, a recent transplant from Hawaii.  Despite the shit conditions we made the most of the side chop set waves.  I was not really feeling it and never really put a good ride together. Then two Kite boarders showed up and were tearing through the line up taking every set that came out way and pissing me off.
7-12-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
What can I say for myself except for the fact that I got hammered at the Wild Cat and then ended up drinking with my roommate and a couple randoms we met a 7-11 on the walk home till the sun came up.  Bizarro and I killed half a handle of rum in a game of shot for shot in which we tied, but lets face it when you do shit like that there are no winners especially the next day.  My girl showed up at around noon and I was still a fucking mess.  Somehow I managed to cook us a brunch fruitta.  Trevor hit me up that Emma looked fun.  My chick wanted to go down to the Camarillo outlets so I thought I would bring my gear just in case.  As usual Trevor’s stoke level made for a skewed report and all of Ventura looked like shit thus we continued on for a day of shoe shopping.  I actually do love to shop so I was alright with it.  Whoooot!!!! Whooot!! Whoot Whoot Whoot.

7-11-15 AM Session: 2-3 + ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
There was still some south getting in and Ventura Harbor was found to be the best of the worst, a constant summertime theme.  I was far from motivated to paddle except for the fact that I drove.  Ryan was going for a run at New Jetty and after watching it for another twenty minutes or so I saw some guy get a sick little tube making the decision to paddle evident.  The current was absolute shit.  I basically got one and did the walk around every time.  My second wave was a sick draining barrel and was my best ride.  Utimately the surf was not worth the effort.  Only six more weeks of summer torture left.

7-10-15 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
Somehow in my drunkenness getting home from the Wild Cat last night I managed to turn my phone onto silent and missed my morning wake up call.  It was chill since I heard from Ryan I didn’t miss all that much anyhow.  I had hoped to get some Jalama after work, but I procrastinated a bit too long before leaving the house and became rather unmotivated.  Ventura was windy and traffic shit thus I got lazy and just bagged it.
7-9-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
I was really counting on getting some fun waves this morning.  The buoys had plenty of south swell on them and conditions seemed clean enough.  When I got to Ventura Harbor it was all drained out and small at New Jetty.  River Mouth was slightly bigger but all drained and dumpy.  I cruised to Emma Wood where there was a very mushy wave coming in on the reef.  There were two long boarders on it and they were barely getting into the meager offerings.  I had a look at the Gold Coast but that sucked too.  Over it I was heading home when I saw a few possibly ride-able ones at Solimar.  It was far from good but the best of the worst for the morning.  I managed a few fun ones and wished I had checked there first and not eaten up all of my time driving around.  I hate summer time south swells.

7-8-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
After work the C Street report was claiming good conditions and slight rise in the south swell.  Bizarro and I cruised hoping to find something fun to shoot.  As it turned out it was rather blown out and still small.  I paddled Emma as a last ditch resort even though it looked all sorts of horrible and was pretty much just glorified shore break.  On top of that there was annoying crowd of kooks, tourists, swimmers and donkeys out.  I was stoked to have paddled but it was definitely not worth the gas money.  We did manage to get one really sick air shot.

7-7-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
The wind kept on blowing up north this morning and rather then deal with that mess again, literally, I decided to head down south for the tide push.  The buoys had all sorts of minor south on them and a touch of wind swell.  I was really hoping for some boost-able bowls at Emma Wood.  Ryan burst my bubble giving the intel that it was super small there and a drive by on the way to Ventura harbor confirmed as much.  River Mouth had some clean fun A-frames up and down the beach and we paddled.  As usual when I lag the wind had decided to follow me down from Santa Barbara and it didn’t take too long for things to get absolutely terrible.  Hey at least I got a few and summer wouldn’t be summer with out all the trash.
7-6-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Oh wind why?  I hate when I miss read the cam and decide to throw caution to the wind and nay say the forecast.  As a result I found Bizarro and myself up at Jalama on the beach being sand blasted by 20 plus knot gale force winds.  With limited options we struck out for Pyramids hoping the kelp being both closer and in the line up would keep the faces clean and for the most part this was true.  The wind was so strong it made surfing almost impossible and pulling anything off worth filming useless.  I gave it the old college try anyhow and it still beat a day working.  Shit it was a mini adventure and a work out walking back against all that wind.  I think I am still picking sand out of my ears.

7-5-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
I have to say this was probably one of the worst fourth of July’s  I can remember.  I was unwillingly dragged down to the water front to partake in the festivities which pretty much consisted of a bunch of LA and Valley people wandering around the street and beach with no shirts and/or wife beaters while paying too much for food at barely sanitary food stands.  Don’t forget the mariachi band and the demographic that sort of thing brings out.  I almost had a freak out.  We couldn’t find any place to eat that wasn’t booked up forcing a meal at The Sand Bar of all places.  I hate eating where I drink.  Finally the great Santa Barbara fire work display was completely lost in a cloud of smoke that not enough wind would blow away.  Next morning I made some breakfast and then cruised up the “J” in search of waves and some peace of mind.  The wind was up a bit, but there was some south getting through and the faces were though jumbled surf-able.  I paddled out at Tarantella’s since the mid summer sand has all but buried the nice sand bars were had going at Cracks making it fast and mostly walled especially when it is windy.  T’s was solid and there were more then a few lefts going all the way through.  It was palatable for a hour or so.  After the surf my lady and I enjoyed a sunset and star filled picnic.   She claimed “I will remember this forever”, whatever the fuck that means.

7-4-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
This morning I had to work a BBQ in Montecito for the town.  It basically consisted of Bizarro and I grilling 300 burgers in a matter of two hours and burning all of the hairs off of our arms in the process.  It was a cool bit of cash in an other wise financial drought.  I wanted to maybe go up north in search of some waves, but I promised the lady that I would go do fourth of July type festivities by the harbor with her and then watch the fire works.  Its all good cause I love holidays and even more then that love to participate in holiday activities with other holiday enthusiasts.  Fire works are my favorite thing in the whole wide world to watch.  I hope we all can sense the sarcasm in this…

7-3-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Once again it looked like shit on the cam. Jalama looked fun but I had to work once again. Over it I decided to just kick it in bed this morning with the hope of getting some after work.  Unfortunately work went later then I had thought thus leaving me with no time to surf up north and I was not in the mood to fight Holiday Friday rush hour traffic.

7-2-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Things looked pretty bad on the cam this morning, small, chunky and windy.  After yesterday’s grovel I was not about to go put up with that crap in the morning when I was tired.  Plus I was hoping to get out of work around 3 pm and head north to Jalama.  Then I a text from my boss that he was having some semi-serious health issues and was not going to be able to work the entire weekend forcing a longer day and few extra hours in general this week.  Its fine I could use to money and am more then happy to help my boy out and wish him a speedy recovery.  My plans of going north were dashed with an elongated work day and the wind was up south making it totally not worth the effort of fighting the traffic.  May try and surf tomorrow morning before work.

7-1-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
My work day ended a few hours earlier then I had initially expected.  With a few free hours before an evening engagement I decided to run down south for a grovel.  There wasn’t much on the cam or buoys making Ventura Harbor my best bet.  I cruised straight there. There was some wind, but New Jetty had an occasional south set with only two guys on it so I paddled.  Soon after I got in the the line up cleared and I had some fun little jetty bowls all to myself.  I guess I must have made it look too much fun cause it was not long before another ten guys paddled as well.  It didn’t matter since my surf was just about done anyway.  It was far from good, but as always stoke to get in the water.