October 2014 Surf Sessions:
10-31-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Maybe paddling out yesterday while feeling sick was a bad Idea. I thought if I took it easy for the rest of the day I would be on the mend. That was till I woke up today feeling worse and even a tad on the feverish side. The surf looked clean and fun and I thought I would just go surf it then power through my work day. When I got out of bed to feed my cats I got really dizzy and needed lay back back down. I woke up at 11:30 and decided to call in sick to work. I had being sick. Booooo.
10-30-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
I woke up feeling sick as all fuck this morning upon the commencement of my 6:20 am alarm clock. My throat, just as it has felt the past five days or so felt like I swallowed a hung off broken glass, my chest and nose was all congested and I was weak as all fuck even though I took it easy and went to bed fairly early. Not to mention the poison oak I picked up from my Big Surf trip is by far the worst case I have ever gotten. At 6 in the morning when one has to be at work at seven, its cold and dark outside and all these extenuating circumstances arise the only logical thing to do is call in sick. This Thursday happened to be the first day in like two weeks where my presence was not imperative to the survival of the kitchen. I don’t even understand why then need to bring me in that early except for out of spite. I am the night and weekend sous thus my being there in the morning is redundant when they have Geoffrey, the day sous. Whatever, I called the sick line and was still awoken once again by Geoffrey to see if I was coming in since no one bothered to check the sick line. I told him I would come if he thought it integral for me to be there. He didn’t so I prepared to go to sleep again for the rest of the day. While I was up I decided to check the buoys just to see what the new swell was doing. Of course it was coming in at 295, 6ft @ 12 sec. What does that mean? Perfectly fun Rincon and though not a big swell I had a feeling it could be fun and thanks to a down played Surfline report (for a change) it went under the crowd’s radar. I dragged myself out of bed and drove to Rincon. I was not going to paddle unless it worth my pain and effort. The Cove was as clean and perfect as it gets with light off shore winds except for the fact that it was barely waist high. I had a look up top and was greeted with three solid three to four wave sets in a matter of 15 minutes of watching which peeled from Indicator all the way to lower River Mouth. At that point I had to surf. I made my way back to my car, suited up and paddled. From the moment I got in the water to when I got out I never saw one wave like what I had witnessed from the beach. I did get three chest high ones from mid Indy all the way to mid River Mouth knocking no less then eight turns on each and stuck a cool little gap air over a foam ball caused by some kook trying to paddle on me. By my twelfth wave I was exhausted and made the slow crawl back to my car to spend the rest of the day prone on my couch. One thing that did come into my mind as I played hooky today is that there has to be a better way then having to work 40 plus hours a week on a set schedule for the “the man”. I know for the fact some guys have the answers cause there a a few cats in the water who are always out when I am regardless of the time of day. I feel it would be a really large coincidence that they are on the same schedule as I am. Don’t let this photo fool you, not one fucking wave like this came in the entire time I was out there!
10-29-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
I was hoping for some Ventura Harbor action this morning. Too bad when I got there New Jetty looked like a kiddie pool mush burger. There may have been a wave at River Mouth but there was a faint gust of onshore wind in my face. Being the fact that it was already almost ten I knew my time window there was short. There is nothing worse then paddling out a clean River Mouth only to have it blow out after your first wave. I rolled to Emma where although on the small side had some nice clean little south lefts rolling in with a light crowd of kooks on it. I paddled since I was there and you know what it was pretty fun for the meager offerings. Fuck it was a clear, clean, sunny day. Who could ask for much more.
10-28-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
I probably should have surfed Rincon today looked very kill-able when I drove by. I had got a text from my old friend Brook-o last night that he wanted to grab a surf with me. When I first moved out here full time him and I surfed together nearly everyday for over a year. Since then life has gotten in the way as usual causing people to drift apart. Me I ended up going the semi-responsible route by buckling down at my job at Westmont. Meanwhile he bailed to Hawaii and had a go at that for a bit. Given the opportunity to catch up with an old friend I decided to cruise to Strand to meet him up. Plus Ryan had confirmed it was fun there. Sure enough there were plenty of peaks coming in up and down the beach. The Bowl looked the best, but I a pretty solid and scrappy looking crowd. We found a peak near the Jetty by the Ship to ourselves. I was still feeling a bit under the weather and the water finally took a plunge leaving me rather frigid in my 3/2. The incoming tide and waning swell left the beach a bit on the lully side. My session was a handful of mediocre rides. Like I said I was there to catch up with a friend making it all worth it. My last wave was my best a solid left wedge I got off the jetty, pulled into a little top tube came out and smashed it three times to the beach. Cold and feeling I had pushed my good health to its limit I decided to put my greed aside and call it a day.
10-27-14 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Well we can chalk me blowing this entire swell thanks to my ever losing bout with alcoholism. Bizarro and I went on another bender of a weekend for no good reason besides stupidity. I was actually looking forward to a mellow evening in last night. Maybe do a little writing for a change, a little reading. Spend quality time with Alfie. Instead at around 5pm I got a message from my friend, old boss at FRS and former couch guy Steve that he was coming up for the night from San Diego en route to SF. The last line of his text: “Should be there by 10:30 and then we can go to the Wild Cat”. FML. In Santa Barbara you can never escape the party. It is always something. If its not holiday, then its a birthday, or a friend visiting or moving, or just a plain old relapse Wednesday. The SB downtown relentless cycle. I think the only way out is to either die or move away. It was actually a pretty fun night out that ended with Bizarro chugging more then 3/4’s of a fifth of Bacardi Oakhurst at 3am in literally on gulp. It might as well have been a bottle of Gatorade with the way he took it down. That memory will literally be burned into my brain until alcohol erases it. Forget about next week, HALLOWEEN BITCHES….
10-26-14 No Surfing: 4-6 ft
At what point in life do I have to obtain before I am absolved from the duty of cleaning up vomit as part of my job? You would think the title of sous chef would do that for me. Today I found that to not be the case. After a rediculous night in fancytown with Bizarro that ended up with us at the Spearmint Rhino looking for his Wild Cat stripper hook up girl till about 3 am. From there we found ourselves hunting for a cheap $5 flask of terrible whisky we stashed in a bush near the joint so that the bouncers wouldn’t confiscate it from us. Alcoholism…Lets just say I woke up feeling less then stellar this morning. I checked the surf cams and between the crowds, odd morning sickness and fat high tide I decided to spoil myself and sleep in. Fuck I got plenty of amazing waves this week. Back to my work day. I had been in for less then twenty minutes when one of my employees comes to me and asked who is responsible for cleaning the vomit up in the men’s bathroom. FUCK! Good question! It was Sunday and I don’t have any maintenance guys or janitorial staff. What did I do? I roled up my mother fucking sleeves grabbed a mob and slop bucket and cleaned that shit up. I figured by the time I figured out who’s actual job it was to clean it I could have it handled myself. Before enlightenment chop wood carry water, after enlightenment chop wood carry water. Such is my life I suppose.
10-25-14 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
Today marks the third straight Saturday I have woken up to some form of feline excrement and subsequently had to clean it up. WTF!!!! I got up and forced myself to go for a surf full knowing it was going to be both small, shitty and crowded. Thanks to my night out I woke up later then I would have liked and only had enough time for Emma Wood. There were not too many guys though way too many considering the horrid conditions. As I was checking it some couple made me take a picture of them with the ocean in the background. I have taken so many of these similar tourist photos while angrily kicking sand in the Emma Wood parking lot over looking the meager surf conditions I am always about to endure. For now on I am making them take one with me too. I have used the word “too” too many times in this little nearly non-sequitor paragraph of Lisanti bull shit. I paddled and actually had a surprisingly good time. There was a nice little south swell running allowing kill-able bowls off the south peak and I happened to be surfing very well TOO! Sorry I couldn’t help myself at that point. Its WILD CAT time. Also let me extend a very happy birthday going out to my boy and SurfingRuinedMyLife.net all star John Mauriello. I wanted West and I to come up and surprise your ass, but West was being a bloody vagina as always.
10-24-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
What an average crowded day I had to put up with at Emma. It was as crowd of randoms too. I didn’t recognize more then a handful of guys. Luckily there were plenty of clean little combo swell peaks working up and down the beach. The problem was there were so many surfers that at one point even though catching a wave was not an issue not hitting into someone was. I got my share and couldn’t complain. Work was hectic as fuck thanks to a day full of founder’s events plus my usual day’s work. We got through it. I wanted to leave early because I had a little thing going on after work. As I was walking out the door my fucking boss forced me to stay late to make a fruit platter. Then I got home and there was some more bs drama to deal with ultimately making me crazy late for my rendezvous and most likely came off less then stellar then I would have liked. I really need to take some stake in my life and make the warranted corrections. I did have a good time despite all for what it was worth. Things will sort themselves out very soon.
10-23-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 minutes
Waves Surfed: 31
After work Bizarro and I met up and did the usual hunt for the best possible photographic and surf-able conditions. This search led us to Silver Strand where despite the onshore wind there were some solid sets coming through with just a little bit of texture on them. I surfed down by the ship and found a decent peak all to myself. Of course as always I suck at surfing the Strand, the sun glare was tough and Bizarro was less then attentive, not to mention his lack of a fully functional camera left us with what he assumes were less then desirable results, though we have yet to look at them off the camera. I had a few good ones and even snagged a barrel or two. It was definitely the best of the worst for the time. Tomorrow Bizarro comes to start working for me. This should be interesting.
10-22-14 PM Session2: 2-4+ft, Mill Creek, Big Sur
Time in Water: 4o minutes
Waves Surfed: 12
What great surf adventure no matter how short would be worth spit if there was not a sunset session to end on. Look to a blog soon on this as well…
10-22-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Andrew Molera State Park, Big Sur
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
All I am going to say is that sometimes I get these stupid Ideas in my head and they actually work out. Wait for the blog on this one coming soon…
10-21-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hazards
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Mike and I went back to my apartment after a quick grub down out Lalos this chill ass little Mexican joint in the middle of Mexico Ventura we frequent. We packed up and began our trek north. The plan was to head north and if we happened to stumble upon something worth surfing before it got dark we were on it. El Cap was our first check. Although the wind was offshore the waves appeared to be all torn up out from a south gale. Baffled we kept on. As we padded Hazards it was straight offshore and very fun. I flipped a bitch over at Refugio and sure enough the left looked fun as all hell with only two guys on it. Unfortunately there were three other guys checking it and definitely not enough waves to go around for the whole group. One of the guys decided to surf the right hand reef to the west and one of the guys in the water was getting out. I figured it would be alright to paddle since it looked to me like enough waves for five people. Surfing in Gaviota is a little different then surfing down south. People here respect both locals and the break. If a wave is already maxed out it is rude to paddle. You either wait till a few guys leave or go someplace else. If your not a local then you give way to the locals. That was the game plane. We paddled and sat on the inside making due with the scraps that were afforded to us. The guys we were surfing with were chill and there was enough to go around. I had some pretty fun ones. I am pretty sure both Mike and I were in agreeance that the surf was way more fun the our morning session at Strand.
10-21-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
With crowds and less then predicted surf conditions I found myself scrounging around looking for the best of the worse I suppose. Rincon was fat, section, average and crowded for what it was. Hammonds was weak with bad winds and too many people. Little ‘Con was too high and so was Pitas, despite that they too were crowded. Hobsons looked like shit, Emma was terrible. Finally Ryan said Strand was fun thus Mike and I found ourselves there. It was far from epic Ship, but there were some short bowls. I swapped fins from the AM2’s to the Accelerators and what a noticeable difference. The Accelerators totally out performed the AM2’s. Besides that I would say the session was forgettable. Mike was killing it on his quad. The endeavor was enough for me to pack my boards and run up to Big Sur for a 30 hour retard mission.
10-20-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
I finally got my lazy ass out of bed this morning and to the waves. Not that it was worth my effort. The wind was south all the up to Pitas and then the waves were small every place else. I could check Ventura Harbor cause I was short on time. Rincon looked like there was a little wave up top, but with the cross winds and small size I was not about to make that mistake. There I stood in the parking lot at Emma kicking dirt around wishing it was twice as good. If the sand was actually decent there I think it could have at the very least been palatable. I caught a few and it beat not surfing.
10-19-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I can’t remember (literally) the last time I had a weekend of party like this one. I don’t really know what got into me. I guess I just went fucking ham. My motivation to surf was sub par and so was the surf so fuck it why not just go out and blasted three nights in a row. I probably got more exercise on the dance floor at the Kitty then I would have gotten surfing anyway. Considering weekend crowds most likely had more fun too.
10-18-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Another night at the Cat had me up a little later then I wanted. I could have squeezed an hour in some place, but the buoys looked small, I was lazy, I hate weekend crowds and I hate weekend traffic even more. Fuck it I stayed in bed. I may be motivated to surf tomorrow.
10-17-14 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
Holy fuck!!! I got on the train the Fancytown last night and didn’t look back. Like my bartender Sharon likes to say to me on the day after such an occasion “Chris, be proud, you had a plan and you stuck with it”. I don’t know if proud is the word to use. I got fucked up, made an ass of myself as usual and when I came out of my black out I was all the way up on Mission St., a good three miles away from my apartment. It was a shitty fucking walk to say the least and an even shitty next day at work. I heard the waves were alright at the beachies from Ryan. Whatever I was so drunk I was lucky I could even get out of bed to make my noon work day.
10-16-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
I suppose I really shouldn’t complain about back to back WNW swells in fucking October, but it is me after all. Weak and lully was what I was confronted with while checking Rincon this afternoon. The crowd was a bit heavy for what was coming in as well. My rule of thumb is that if I don’t see any waves go by not taken then there most likely is not room for me. The evening high tide was not helping either. I ended up down at Little ‘Con. Bizarro was with me and Little Rincon is a very photograph friendly spot. I paddled and although tidey and inconsistent I found a few good ones. Then some fucking Bro decided to burn me on one and I just surfed behind him actually throwing up some solid turns thanks to him creating a lip to hit. When I paddled back out he proceeded to yell at me for “paddling around him”. An argument ensued that was only ended by me calling him out to the beach of which he declined. It didn’t kill my vibe I still found some fun ones. He on the other hand drifted angrily out of the line up. It was an average session with a spectacular sunset.
10-15-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Maybe I should have surfed the top of Rincon? I don’t really know. C Street was probably the call to be honest. I had Bizarro with me and we wanted to shoot photos. I felt like crowded ass windy Point was not the place to try and get some shots, although neither was empty, windy, dumpy Emma either. It was basically as bad as Emma gets with out being super small. I thought I saw some boost-able close outs. They turned out to just be shitty close outs instead. Then some 12 year old kid came out and owned me. Whatever. Bizz says he got a few good ones of me. The proof will be in the pudding when we review them later.
10-14-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Rincon was on my brain for the afternoon surf. I met Bizarro down at Mira Mar so that we could shoot. While we were getting ready to car pool I noticed a few waves lapping up on the rocks. We had a check at Hammonds real fast and sure enough there was a little wave coming in with only three people out. The wind was onshore and tide high. I sort of felt like if we went south all I was going to do was drive around wasting gas and time to just get frustrated. Fuck it I surfed Hammonds and you know what although far from epic it wasn’t all that bad. I found a few connectors down the reef that I was more then pleased with. We got a few shots too. Then the last hour the waves went completely flat. Classic town.
10-13-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
I had hopes for surfing Rincon this morning till I was unable to get a spot in either lot. My rule of thumb with ‘Con is that if I absolutely can’t get a spot in the lot then it is by far way way way too crowded. I had a look at Lil’Con and although not the best I have ever seen the place and still a bit more crowded then I would have liked my friend Sean was in the lot and talked me into paddling. I had a limited amount of time and I am sure being that fact that it was the first solid NW swell of the season and a holiday there was to be crowds everywhere. Rather then waste anymore time I just paddled and hoped for the best. At first the majority of the sets were close outs and the smaller ones back washy. I blew like my first four in a row. Then as the tide filled in I got in the zone and started to pick off some decent rides. I had one I got three solid turns and stuck an air right in front of the hotel. I got to enjoy my yearly surf with my old surf buddy Devin. This cat and I used to surf together and party at the Cat on occasion as well something like six years ago. These days he is doing big things in LA working at some hedge fund and surfing sparingly. As for me nothing had changed in my life surf wise except for the season. It was good to see the chap and with any luck maybe we will get some waves in a more timely manner together than a year. The only bummer was that I got glass in my foot when I was coming up the trail by Mussel Shoals. Luckily for me I am always prepared and had a pair of tweezers in my car. I picked all that shit out, but my foot still hurt at work all day and hurts now as I type this. Man I hate when I complain like a bloody vagina.
10- 12-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
I got home and finished with my expedition later then I was told, though expected as much from the company. With only about an hour of light left and some very solid NW swell coming in I was left with Mesa Lane as my only option. Between the sun setting earlier everyday and Sunday traffic out of town anything south would have been impossible. I had a look at Leadbetter in front of my apartment and saw a wave then drove over to the Lane. It was far from epic though there were some fun looking peaks with only three guys out, a rarity at that spot theses days or any spot for that matter. I jumped in and forgot just how many rocks there are to contend with out there on a steadily dropping tide. I found a few lefts and one really fun right on my last wave. Found my ass slammed into a few rocks as well. Ultimately it was just nice to get wet and wash off the grim of three stupid long days, two which contained no surfing.
10-11-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
A very long day found me completely exhausted. Two bottles of wine later I was sound asleep like a gangsta. Maybe someday I will explain all that went down the past few days, but at the moment it must remain cryptic.
10-10-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I have a little thing going down for the next two days that is going to have me outside of surfing range and internet capabilities. Thats all I am going to say about that you can use your imagination on what it is I actually may be doing. Knowing me that could be anything. Look for an update Sunday night. BYE…BYE…
10-9-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
With the negative low tide and dwindling swell I was not left with too many options this afternoon. The wind was pretty light thus I cruised to Ventura Harbor to have a look. New Jetty had a few coming in, but that place is still very fucked up from Marie. I looked toward River Mouth and saw a bunch of peaks coming in. It was a little torn up but it appeared as though the faces were clean. I took a walk down and and definitely saw a few kill-able ones. I figured with any luck the wind would lighten up as the sun set and it might actually get sick. Of course instead the wind picked up harder onshore instead leaving me with torn up scalloped out dumpy lefts. Luckily for me I have surfed plenty of shit just like that in my life having a very solid foundation for it. Needless to say even I struggled to find keepers. I did manage two barrels and stuck a huge ally-oop on my last wave. Found some sea glass on the walk back to my cat and perved out some chick in a thong while checking it till her dog ran up an tried to nip at my ankles. I stared intently at it for a moment and it cowered then ran away in fear. Whooooooot!!!!
10-8-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
These days I try and get a Jalama day in just about once a week if I can help it. Basically I am constantly checking the reports for Tuesday and Wednesday and if they are good I am there. This is of course unless Rincon or one of my favorite points around here are going to be good. Today had a favorable report thus I gathered the up Mike and Bizarro (no I did not break my “rule of two”. Bizarro came to shoot, not surf.) and cruised. Unfortunately the early morning fat six foot high tide had things at cracks to be very average and backwashy. Throw in about ten guys with a few sets and I was not about to jump in right away. The off shore fog bank was solid enough that it would hold down the wind long enough for us to wait out both the tide and the crowd a little. Sure enough by 11am both had happened. We paddled and right off the bat I had a few good ones. The water was fucking warm as hell. I had to get out and shed my boots and still I was sweating in my 4/3 almost to the point of exhaustion. Then all of a sudden we got stuck in one of those 40 minute Jalama lulls. I got frustrated and threw a tantrum flipping off waves, cursing and at one point I even punched the lip of a bull shit mush burger with my fist in anger. After that as if catering to my dismay the conditions picked up and we had about two hours of solid enough surf though still a bit on the soft and mushy side. I surfed alright and think Bizarro got a few shots. We kicked around the beach a little longer to see what the wind and dropping tide would do. Both were a disappointment so we bailed to Lompoc for our usual post surf debriefing at the Jalama Beach Cafe. There we enjoyed calamari steak sandwiches and a nice bottle of an Australian Shiraz-Malbec blend that was spectacular for an Aussie wine. Day like this make me want to get a job cooking at Vandenburg so I can move to Lompoc live cheap and once again enjoy some of the finer things in life. Then I get back into Santa Barbara and realize how shallow I am and that I still have a long way to go before I can shed the Southern California narcissist shallow prick I have become. Fuck it…whatever.
10-7-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 35
Bizarro and I met up with Ryan just north of the Emma Wood entrance, which has been the spot for all of the past few tropical swells as of late. The sight of perfect left hand glassy drainers had us drooling. Did I mention that no one was out? Ryan and I paddled just in front of the break wall and Bizarro set up for the shoot. Right off the bat we were getting sick ones. I had some barrels that were fucking screamers. I found a few beatings too. Unfortunately it didn’t take long for the crowd to grow. By the end of the first hour it was twenty strong in a small take off area with everyone being proficient surfers and paddlers. At the moment my bruised ribs restrict my paddling ability enough to make it hard for me to fight a pack to stay in position. I am also nursing an ankle injury as well slowing down my pop up. If this is a glimpse of old age I hope I die long before my body really starts to deteriorate. I had an alright session though if I were healthy and the crowd stayed light I might have been all time. I need to heal up soon. Looks like I am going for a Jalama run tomorrow.
10-6-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Lead Better
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves surfed: 10
Last night was Wild Cat’s annual gay prom, which has basically been widely adopted by all the regular club goers gay or straight as a grand event for regulars. Its a formal attire party and I love dressing up and always do anyway, but when the entire club looks classy it just makes the night that much more magical. Bizarro and I rolled up with a solid group of Tim-o, Amelia, Ashley, Her friend Janette, Brittany and Chantelle, and we met up with Mark at the club. Although we showed up as a gang I somehow ended up the last man of the crew standing come last call. I guess in the end Lisanti is always the guy who can hang. Maybe I should have left early with everyone cause I woke up in some pretty bad shape. Between waking up late and still a little drunk I figured I would have to bag the surf even though a crazy south east tropical swell had filled in over night. I looked out my kitchen window while I was feeding my cats and saw some solid ones coming in and dumping on the beach at Lead Better. I ran down the trail and sure enough there were chest to head high waves coming in at the point. It was a bit high and wobbly, but with three guys out and my only real option for surfing I went for it. I found a few. I was steadily reminded by I never surf Lead Better even though it literally is in front of my door. Actually on my last wave I managed to connect it all the way from the outside to beach with a few alright turns and then a close out shore break barrel at the end that I almost broke my neck on. Whoooooooot!!!! Working hung over as fuck was a nightmare. Not to mention it was a Monday with a very labor intensive Mexican menu. By the time I got home I was so exhausted I passed out on my bed with my chef clothes still on.
10-5-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 26
After another night at the Wild Cat that was for the most part uneventful besides connected with an old friend from a somewhat past life I found myself hard pressed to get out of bed for an early surf. Having a late start and a deep morning tide I was left with little options besides Rincon Left. I looked at it and saw a few waves coming through and a rather light crowd. I got out there and for what ever reason it was a bit faster then the previous day and I was hard pressed to get tons of good ones. It was also more inconsistent as well. I did manage to get a few tubes on which must have been alright for Killian to comment on. Let’s face it, the water and air were warm, the sun was shinning, the water was as clear blue as it gets and I had few fun ones. I would have to be a real whinny bitch to complain about that.
10-4-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
I used to hate Indy left and now I ride that wave strong as fuck. I suppose I owe it all to my boy Trevor for making me surf it so much this season. I must say that I am beginning to like that wave more and more. Thanks to a night at the Wild Cat where a gnarly fight broke out on the dance floor and shut down the place early I got a late start. This guy got knocked the fuck out. The other guy tried to then fight the security before getting his ass kicked and arrested. Bizarro and I were given complimentary shots for our trouble. I woke up and it was hot as fuck not allowing me to sleep anymore thus I figured why not go surfing. I checked Indicator and it was average and a bit crowded for what was coming in. Then I figured it was going to be crowded everywhere so instead of blowing more money on gas I just paddled. I was glad I did cause I ended up getting a bunch of fun ass waves. The water as crazy clear. I though I was surfing in the Caribbean or something. I could see the entire reef. Good surf, whoot.
10-3-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Fucking Cstreet! Are you kidding me? Is that what this season has come to? I was really hoping to grab a Santa Anna session at Santa Clara River Mouth, but of course today when I had a chance to surf in the morning there were no Santa Anna’s and it was crowded. I guess word got out. No fucking surprise there. Ryan said I would be dumb if I didn’t come surf with him at The Point even though it was Friday and all of my better judgement told me not to. I did anyway. Sure it looked fun, but there were also over 100 people spread along the point and counting. I jumped in at Pipes and found a few. I stuck one money ally oop I was happy with and had a few good multi turn backside waves. Even stuck a strange tweaked out bs air. I guess those fins are alright after all.
10-2-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
I must state first off that I sort of thing every single person on the face of the earth who owns a Wavestorm should be fucking stoned to death. I see those fucking things everywhere. Shit my friends Ryan and Lindsay both own one. If you ride a hard surf board then you should always ride a hard surf board. If you want to learn how to surf you should suck it up like the rest of us did back in the day with a hard surf board. If you stick it out after the first round of bruises and lacerations then you truly deserve to surf. Who am I kidding? Lets face it my friends we are in the “Era of the Kook”. The days of the elite surfer ruling have long since passed. Money talks and the truth is most elite need to be in the water as much as possible to both get and stay that good thus have not a pot to piss in. Now that I got that off my chest I can write about today’s surf. I have to say that I hoped more south would have filled in before I got off from work. Hoping for Santa Anna’s I headed south to Ventura where the wind although light was north. I should have bailed on work at 2 and just bolted up to Jalama. The cam looked pretty good up there. I drove back and forth on Sea Cliffs from Emma to Stair Case twice, before finally just desperation paddling the Gold Coast, which was far from incredible. There were a few scattered corners and boost-able close outs to be had and I pretty much had a peak all the myself till briefly challenged by some groms, whom steadily realized that they were too slow for what I was surfing and paddled up the beach. It was far from a good surf, but the new fins still felt good in the sub par conditions where I managed to stick a few decent airs and a money ally-oop.
10-1-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
I had to be back in the Barb by 2pm for a hair appointment and although a bit on the short side I must say my hair dresser did a great job as usual. Mike sent me some pics from Rincon and there was a wave there though a bit on the fatter and slow side for me. I was not in the mood to drive all the way to Rincon for that. I had a look at the Lane and sure enough there were some lines coming in a with a solid little crowd on it. I always get my share at the Lane so I went home, did a few house hold chores, cleaned up the garden then cruised back for a paddle. Of course by this time there had to be pushing 40 surfers on it. Mesa Lane is a terrible wave. The fact that so many people were on it was absurd. I got a few off the pack on the main peak before drifting over to Dorky’s Left down the beach where I found a gnarly shore breaky close out to have fun with. Truthfully I only paddled out cause I am trying to feel out these fins Mike lent me in varying conditions. The board totally felt better even at bad Mesa Lane. Its definitely not a magic stick, but these fins may just salvage what I though was a total loss.
10-1-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 34
Barrels, PGCB’s, Bare Euro Titties, and Big Butts is all I have to say for this mornings Jalama mission. Mike and I cruised super early now that the kelp bed is beginning to get torn out with the winter swell. One can’t be too early once again to beat the wind. Today winds were on the lighter side. I had hoped to get one of my crazy reefs, but the swell was way to short period wind swell for that. We actually walked all the way to Pyramids only to end up back at Cracks. The crowd was also a bit on the disturbing side for a Wednesday in the fall with more then thirty cats on Cracks. We found a gnarly sand bar in between Tarantellas and Cracks that was producing a crazy double to triple up close out left barrel. Fuck I only made one or two, but man talk about a view. I pulled into some backless drainers that had my heart in my mouth as the barrel got wide enough to drive my Honda through. It was one of those shitty close out sessions on I could love. I changed the fins on my board on Jason’s suggestion to the AM II’s which Mike was nice enough to lend me and I must say it made a sure fire difference. When we got out of the water I looked down the beach toward T’s and saw this chick walking towards us in a wetsuit peeled down to the waist with no top on. She had to be Euro cause no one does that shit down there. Yeah I have caught the occasional couple fucking, but who could blame them. I myself had to change buck naked a few times when I forgot my towel. This chick was walking around topless like it was nothing. God bless the Euro’s. When we left to head back to the car park she was still wandering around topless. WOW! Good on her.
Dear Chris, yesterday I got an email from my dad saying that for the first time in his life he was physically unable to go ride perfect waves. Eventually it will happen to all of us, at which point you will probably want to kill yourself, cut back on the boozing and surf. Do it for me, think of me sitting in my house dealing with bats shitting all over and not surfing. PS come to mozambique next february/ march and surf here
http://www.surfline.com/video/premium-partner-video/jordy-smith-the-getaway_119586
Mozambique hmmm. I be down. Thanks for the advice. I have been struggling with then party:surf ratio my entire life kooky. Thanks for looking out
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