March 2020 Surf Sessions
3-30-20 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Flatness reigns supreme here in the 805. I wanted to quickly bring up a topic that I am sure to write a blog on soon. Surfers have to stop shaming surfers everywhere for surfing. Whether or not we are going to survive this or not will not be because local authorities stopped people from going surfing. When the government shuts down all outside activity except for essentials then I will no longer be angry about the ban on surfing. All I see is droves of people out hiking, biking and doing all other activities where they are definitely coming in contact with others who are not in their quarantine groups. That is all I have to say right now. I am composing a solid blog in my head and will have it out soon enough on all of this.
3-29-20 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
The buoys were small and the cams were small. I can’t remember a time when we have had a flat spell this long. To get some much needed exercsise and escape from the house my lady and walked the beach from Haskells up to Naples. One thing nice about that stretch of sand once you get north of the pier social distancing isn’t a problem cause there are no people around. We had fun watching the shore birds, hawks and vultures doing there thing. Besides getting a bit blasted by the hard yet non-swell building wind it was a rather nice day in the sun.
3-28-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
South East swell my ass. Another day of sub par tiny waves. Looks like they finally shut down all of the LA county beaches since I didn’t see anyone out on any of the cams down there except County Line cause its under Ventura county jurisdiction. As a matter of fact there and Ventura Point had way too many surfers on it for my comfort level. SURFERS IF WE KEEP MOBBING IT IN PACKS THEY ARE GOING TO SHUT DOWN THE BEACHES HERE TOO. Fuck there are miles of beaches in Ventura county all with shitty waves today please spread out or we won’t be able to surf anymore.
3-27-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
I was ready to grovel again. As I was loading my car the wind came up hard like a light switch. The only thing worse then small waves is small windy torn up waves. Instead I got an early start on my ding load and got two boards done and am in the home stretch on that 9’6 long board disaster I wrote about a few days ago.
3-26-20 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 56
I really wanted to surf something and to that avail I got in my car and drove full knowing it was going to be a grovel at best. I started at Rincon, but it was way too small. I got word that all the Ventura and Oxnard beaches were small. To save some gas I resolved on paddling Emma. It looked bowly and fun. When I got down to the beach level I realized that the two guys out that made it look fun were tiny groms maybe four feet tall and def under 100 lbs. I took my Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz, my ultimate groveler and it was a struggle at that to make any rides possible. I did wrangle a few thigh high double ups that I worked hard to make a hit on. with a very grim forecast and the worry for beach closures I was glad to make an effort. Rest of my day was spent grinding through dings.
3-25-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 44
The morning was tiny and hardly worth the effort or gas. I had some ding work to to handle and spent the better part of the day sanding away. If anything being out of work and stuck at home has got me cruising through my pile of personal dings and beaters I have gathered over the past few years. The wind blew rather hard all day and in the hopes of finding some local wind swell I had a look south. Rincon was tiny in the Cove. The three guys out on soft tops were struggling to make it happen. It was maybe waist plus, but all torn up and shitty. Same went for Little ‘Con and Pitas. There was some torn up beach break around chest high. Considering how cold it was out, my leaky wet suit (thanks Boby Glove for ignoring my warranty claim, ten years of surfing for those guys and that is thanks I get) I decided to bag as I wasn’t all that frothy.
3-24-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
I would have went back to Jalama, but the wind was up by nine and I didn’t feel like waking up in the dark for chest plus average at best surf. Meanwhile Ventura was basically knee to waist at best. Its been a terrible month for surfing. I began fixing dings. I have this one 9’6 POS Mc Tavish from the 80’s some dude brought over with easily two hundred dings in it. If I had the proper work space I would have sanded the entire thing down and then reglassed it all. Unfortunately I can’t do ding repair at my shaping facility cause its only for fresh clean boards. I have been going on a ding by ding basis. I only took the the job cause the guy was a friend of a friend and the story he gave me is that it belonged to a life long core Hermosa Beach surfer who recently died and his friends want to ride that board to remember him. From what I was told no one wanted to touch the job cause of the obvious annoyance involved. He offered me two hundred bucks cash and needing money I took it and signed my own bill of frustration. Then I had two epoxy boards of my own to fix. Both are Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy models, my go to small wave board. One I ripped all three fin boxes out of after hitting a rock at Mesa Lane back in December. The other I creased after landing a big ally-oop in the flats at Moonstone Beach in Cambria back in November. Actually both boards are coming along nicely, especially the crease. I think it may be one of the best ones I ever did. After that I was hoping maybe some wind swell came up in town, but there was just enough to log and I wasn’t that frothy. Instead my lady and I went for a walk on Lead Better then made a trip to the grocery store to buy some provisions. Yeah you got me we were running out of booze. Actually the shelves are slowly getting more and more food on them everyday. Still no toilet paper though. I got about seven rolls left….
3-23-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 126
After days, well make that a month of sub par surf. I think I can count on one hand the number of days worth anything in March. Desperate for some waves and some footage I decided to take my lady with me up to Jalama. The cam looked somewhat clean and there was enough swell for me to believe it would be at least chest high. Considering the beaches could be closed indefinitely at any moment now this could be the last session I get on film for and indefinite amount of time. We got up there as the wind began to come up. I had not been there for quite some time and had hoped there would be some kelp. Every line up down here is riddled with it. Of course there was none and the line up a bit torn up and disorganized. The crowd was a bit heavy too and not with individuals. People still came in four packs plus. It is very sad that we are going to lose our right to surf because of idiots like this. Sure I brought my girl, but we live together making her my quarantine partner, I set her up away from any other beach goers and I kept my distance from other surfers in the line up as well. Unfortunately, though there was plenty of size the shape was trash as was the quality. Between all the chop and lump on the face, average at best sand and plenty of rips I had my work cut out for me. On top of that most waves started off mushy on the outside and then just flat out dumped on the inside with out even an air or hit section. I managed a few, but over all it was a struggle. After the surf my girl wanted a Jalama burger to which I replied I think the store will be closed. All the camping has been suspended up there and besides a few surfers and beach goers the place was a ghost town. I conceded to go by and just see if it was open. Sure enough it was. We had a talk with the owner, who has had the place for years and he was saying he lived through two wars and never saw times this tough. We were happy to get two burgers and fries and help out. I have not gotten a Jalama burger that fast since 2007. We sat down to eat our burgers near the Chumash tree and got mobbed by birds of every species imaginable. You forget how many animals actually need humans and our waste to survive.
3-22-20 No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 72
I really wanted to get a surf in today. With restrictions getting heavier everyday in this once free zone we call the United States now bordering on a totalitarian state one can never know when he will wake up and find that he is no longer able to even legally leave his home. The buoys were still small with just a touch more south in the water. The Lower’s cam looked solid and usually if that is the case there will be something at Ventura Harbor. All it contained was crowded close outs up and down the beach with the exception of the one River Bar, which was packed and barely offered one wave every fifteen minutes. All the New Jetty peaks were tiny and over crowded also. I had a hail Mary look at Shores, which was too high just as I suspected and the wind came up stiff south. At that point I started the trail of tears home checking every out post form Emma to Johns all just a tad too small and whatever would have been worth a grovel was blown to smithereens by the south wind. Still wanted to get a bit of exercise my lady and I decided to walk the beach from Father Johns to Hobsons at a steady pace. This was close to a four mile round trip. I found a few pieces of sea glass and we saw some cool shore birds. The rest of the day, like the rest of you was spent home. And the beat goes on. Don’t worry I didn’t interact with anyone but my fiance, whom I live with. Any one we saw we stayed the regulatory six feet from. Please don’t shame me.
3-21-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
Tiny, tiny, tiny was the call today. With the exception of Lowers and a few other spots I think you were hard pressed to find a wave over waist high yesterday. I knew I wouldn’t be able to in the 100 mile radius of coast I take in. Instead my lady and I went down to collect some shells for our wedding party favors. Sure the likely hood of us getting to have the wedding we had hoped and dreamed of on April 17th is rather unlikely. We like to hope for the impossible. Once you give up hope there is nothing to live for. We are just trying to take it day by day and tell ourselves that we will persevere through whatever is to befall us in the coming weeks, months and years. This is all any of us can do in such times. I have come to realize I may be in one of the more susceptible groups of people to contract the Corona Virus considering I am male and 100% Italian.
3-20-20 No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
Things were looking very small on the Cams and buoys, which was good because I had to attend a sort of illegal funeral for my lady’s cousin who died. I know there is a quarantine out there, but people do have to bury their dead and console their families. It was a very sad scene. Parents shouldn’t out live their children and it is a shame to see a young life wasted. Shame me if you like, but I did what I felt right.
3-19-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 64
The south was down a bit from the previous day and there was a very tiny bit of local wind swell. I started at Emma Wood where I saw a few good ones from the freeway and decided to go back. It was a flash in the pan. Though crossed up, bowly and perfect conditions it was only about knee high at best. From there I went to the Harbor which was I trying to still avoid to keep out of the dirty water. It was still pretty small there, but every now and then it appeared there were some chest high sets. There was a new bar that looked alright in front of where the mouth opened. The crowd was rather thick for the lack of quality waves coming through. Robbie was out half way between there and Knoll thus I paddled out with him. Maybe I missed the tide window cause the majority of waves were either walled and dumpy or just completely weak. I did manage one decent barrel on a left and Robbie somehow lucked into a head high three turn right out of no where that was by far the wave of the surf. Besides that it was a rather forgettable session. Glad I put in the hours when it was fun yesterday. The rest of my day was spent fighting the crowds at the grocery store to at least get a few essentials. There wasn’t much on the shelves and rather then take what was left I only bought what I needed. If those fools didn’t all panic buy and hoard food we wouldn’t be in this situation. The place looked like a grocery store from the Soviet Union. I did lucky get a sack of flour, some semolina flour, a bit of cheese, some cured meats, a bit of pasta and spicy Italian sausage. Hopefully the shelves will slowly begin the replenish soon now that they are putting limits on the amount of one item that can be purchased by one household.
3-18-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 49
Miles Driven: 72
I fielded a call from Angers that Shores was fun thus headed straight there. Though a bit tidy there were some solid chest to head south sets rolling through. As it turned out I had just seen the every twenty minutes set while checking it. It was a waiting game out there and if the set missed your particular sand bar then you had to keep on waiting. As the tide got lower more options presented themselves. By this time the wind began to slowly rise out of the south then south west before turning full on north west. That being said there was still easily an hour and half of rip time before it got completely trashed. I mistakenly rode my short board thinking the large sets were the norm. Still I would have to say it was the most fun I have had surfing in awhile. After that I met a customer for a new custom board pick. The rest of my afternoon was spent re-upping my managerial serve safe certification. I passed giving me another six years on my certification. Now all we need is all this Corona shit to blow over so I can get a job. This too will pass.
3-17-20 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 72
Brown town was the state of the ocean this morning. Once again as the precedent this year has been whenever we have nice conditions we also have no waves. I found myself staring at a very drained out and very dirty Ventura Harbor. Robby had paddled the Point, which was equally brown. I decided to just have a look at Shores. It was tiny maybe waist plus, every like twenty minutes a rouge chest high south wave, not set would roll through. The water was blue and looked rather clean all rain considered. I saw a enough to warrant a paddle. I grabbed my fish and hit it. I have never seen social distancing in the water like I did today. The bars were easily fifty yards apart and crowd minimal thus we had one surfer per bank. When the tide bottomed out it just about killed what meager south was getting through. I was left out the back struggling to even find a wave in. I suppose I was stoked to get what I got. I heard in Florida they actually closed the beaches as a result of the Corona scare and are not letting people surf. That shit is fucked up. You can take away my work, take away my toilet paper but when you mess with my ability to surf there is a problem. Luckily California has not imposed such rules. Happy St. Patrick’s Day. I guess there will be no green beer, big leprechaun hats and me in my green suit this year. Maybe I’ll wear it at home tonight just to be in the spirit of things.
3-16-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
The morning started off windy and rainy. Conditions up and down the coast were all torn up with minimal swell. I had hoped maybe some solid SE wind swell would build, but I guess the wind hadn’t gotten strong enough for that. Santa Barbara was bout knee high at best with brown water. Towards the evening it appeared that Ventura had began to clean up with a tad more swell. Nothing seemed large enough for me to consider a bout with the dirty water. My sinuses are already pretty clogged from my past few sessions. Maybe tomorrow.
3-15-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
Conditions were clean as can be and I was walking out the door to go for a surf when I got a call from Robby that he had just gotten out of the water at River Mouth and it was waist high at best and all walled. I played that game yesterday. At least it was chest plus then. I decided to save my gas and chill with my chick. We met up with her mother and sisters at Sambos for brunch. After a sub-par meal, which is usually the case there my lady and I decided to head to Rincon and take advantage of the low tide to look for shells and sea glass for a special wedding project. I took my gear just in case there might have been a change in the surf. As soon as we got to the beach in the Cove I noticed an adult western grebe laboring down by the waters edge. There was a trail of about four feet where the bird attempted to drag itself back to the water after being marooned there on the morning high tide. We placed a call to the Wild Life Care Network in Goleta. The nearest person couldn’t get there for sometime. Being that we had nothing of any real importance to do we decided to scope up the bird and take to Goleta ourselves. My lady tossed a towel over it’s body and swiftly swaddled it. From there we rushed up to Goleta to get the bird some help. In the process it manages to get a chunk out of my girl’s fingers. Its good when they have some fight in them. It shows they are not totally gone. When we got there the sea bird was quickly attended to. Currently they had seven other grebes in custody. Hope our little guy gets a speedy recovery and be back in the ocean soon.
3-14-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
It goes with out saying that after last night I was going to be getting a late start today. The wind was still rather calm down in Ventura and my lady and I wanted to get out of the house. We got to River Mouth and it was pretty walled and shitty. There was some steep NW on the buoy thus I ran to strand hoping there would be even a waist high wave. It was not even surf-able. With no options left I hiked down to the Mouth. It was as I said pretty walled and somewhat back washy. The flat light was terrible making it neatly impossible to judge waves coming in and even harder to see the lip when surfing. I made the most of the conditions. The bars do currently suck out there. There were steel head the size of my arm jumping out of the water all over the place. I wish I had brought a net. On the bright side the River Mouth is filled to the brim and should open with just a tad more rain. Luckily there is plenty more of that in the forecast.
3-13-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 72
With mostly south in the water and just a touch of NW I knew it was going to be a straight beach break morning. I had high hopes for River Mouth. Upon checking it all the sand bars looked pretty straight and all I could see was lefts freight training down the beach leaving ever taker behind. It didn’t help that the tide as pretty drained as well. I had a look at Shores and there were some really decent sand bars up and down the entire beach. Angers and I paddled near Fifth. Unfortunately the tide turned rather quickly and in just about forty five minutes the bars got rather fat. There were still a few barrels to be had, but they were harder to track down and few and far between. By the end of my session I just about had to paddle in because the tide had completely shut it down. It was almost fun while it lasted. Maybe if my lazy ass had gotten out of bed an hour earlier I would have scored. After the surf I had to go to Winco to pick up some kitty litter, cat food and bird seed. The place was mobbed with doomsday crazed shopper and it was flat out scary. I got there just in time to watch two dudes slog it out over the last pack of toilet paper. Others were just clearing out the can goods and other non-perishables like it was going out of style. People are fucking nuts over this Corona Virus thing. Then I got word that the office of the county clerk was going to stop performing marriages as of today. I snatched my girl up and we ran down to get our marriage license since it had to obtained in person and just in case they decided to shut down the entire office we will have it for our wedding on April 17th. Finally I got home to a bunch of calls, texts and emails about if my wedding was still on. Which as of right now we are still going to have it. If anyone is too afraid of getting sick and cannot attend we fully understand. Come the end of the month if things get more gnarly then maybe we will have to postpone. After all of the stress and head ache of our day my girl and I decided to say fuck the hysteria and went out to the Wild Cat. The club had banned dancing for the evening. Of course by the end of the night the dance floor was packed and everyone partying. I must say it was one of the most fun nights I have had out in a while. Anyone out during an endemic is sure to be a serious party person and there fore things were super fun. Good times.
3-12-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Father Johns
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 41
South swell and south wind didn’t leave too many options this afternoon. I wanted to surf this morning but I had an unemployment interview at ten and a job interview at one. I got word at seven that the wind was already on it down south. After my interviews I headed for a surf. I checked Indicator it looked like it was fun right before I got there. The wind had turned harder south and the tide had already begun to get too low. AJ looked at Emma and it was junk. We met at Johns and saw a few wedgey lefts that was fun enough to get us in the water. Unfortunately the wind got harder and as the tide dropped it got a bit walled. Still in classic Father Johns fashion there were kill-able corners everywhere that we made the most of.
3-11-20 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 64
I got an earlier start today to stay ahead of the wind. That never happens. Any morning I decided to get on it earlier you can be sure that the wind will turn that much earlier. Knoll to Rivermouth were pretty beat up with the SW wind. New Jetty was cleaner, but very fat with the incoming tide. I watched two tiny groms struggle which was enough to send me packing. I saw some waves at Emma when passing on the 101. It always takes south wind better then most places there. It was definitely cleaner, smaller too. The current weather system was still cycling around and on days like that the winds are always a crap shoot. I saw a few bowly wedges that looked fun enough and paddled. Actually the sun came out , it got nice and every now and then a solid three wave south set would come through. The good ones were worth a few turns. While out there conditions cleaned up to just about glass. I am sure it got way better at the Harbor. Timing is everything and today and yesterday I was about an hour out of sync.
3-10-20 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Dredge
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 64
Stormy was the weather. I woke up to heavy rain and south east winds here in SB. Ventura was off shore, but there was minimal swell early. I ran some errands including picking up my wedding tux from the tailor. Now my skinny ass will look good. After that I headed south through a gnarly torrential down pour. My car with it’s sport tires was not made for such conditions. Anything over fifty I found myself hydroplaning all over the road. It took me over an hour to get to Ventura Harbor. I got there just in time to watch the wind switch from straight offshore to SSE. The south wind swell had really filled in with solid chest to head high plus sets. New Jetty was a little cleaner, but very drifty. AJ and I watched it for a while before determining it was more work then reward out at the Harbor. I was going to drive to Little Sunset when I remembered that maybe some of the jetty’s just north of Dredge could be good with the current wind. Just on the north side of the Dredge jetty there was a left coming in and peeling down the beach. It kind of reminded me of a side shore day back in New Jersey, especially since it was all wind swell. There were a handful of guys out, but lots of waves to go around. I was on a new board that I may have made a bit thin for, though it did work alright. Makena Burke was out absolutely ripping. It is rare that I am truly impressed with a female surfer, but this young lady absolutely put me to shame out there. The future of Ventura surfing looks bright with this girl. I managed a few fun ones despite my back bothering me the majority of the surf. That weather if very disagreeable on an injury. Oh to be in my twenties again. I got home only to find out that my fiance’s cousin died suddenly in the afternoon. She was only 29. It was a rather drama filled evening to say to least. Death is never easy.
3-9-20 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Not much was in the water today. My back, knees, ankles, and shoulders were completely worked after going ham with Angers during yesterday’s surf. The tide was a 6.3 ft high at ten, it was cloudy and cold out, and all of the cams and buoys were tiny. If signs were ever pointing to a rest day today was it. I am sure I could have found something somewhere if I really was eager. Even I need a break on occasion. Looks like conditions are going to be tough for the first half of the week, but look to some south swell and some NW combo towards the end of the week.
3-8-20 PM Session: 2-3+, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 78
I wrestled with another morning of to go to Jalama or not to. Once again my motivation was lacking despite it being the best option. Instead I met Angers down at Strand where it was waist to chest, inconsistent and weak. There was a small local crowd on it, but plenty of peaks for everyone. When we first paddled out it was too high and the window before it got too low was going to be very short. It was slow at first and I found myself very uninspired to get crazy. I hung out the back a bullshitted with a few guys I knew, while just waiting for set waves. Angers in his gnarly frothy fashion was all over the place groveling like a champ. Finally that magic moment came when the tide was just right it began to push. At this point Angers wanted to get all competitive and it was on. We frothed super hard for easily an hour and I must say I had a few really decent ones in that span. Then the tide got too low causing the line up to be riddled with rips and most of the waves became walled. Angers bailed. I stayed out a bit longer to catch up with my friend Dave since I had not seen him for a few weeks. After the surf my chick got home from her bachelorette weekend and we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening catching up.
3-7-20 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 78
I fucking blew it this morning and there is no excuse for it either. The wind was on it early down south. Jalama had potential with a steep NW and some minor SW combo. While looking at the cam it looked like there was a fair amount of SW wind chop on it coupled with the fact that it was freezing out and cloudy my motivation was really lacking. To honest I had shinned surfing off for the day. Around ten I had a look at the Ventura Point cam and it looked like the wind had lightened and I saw a few lines. Taking in to account the steep swell I had an inkling that Strand might have a wave. By the time I got down there the wind had gotten rather hard out of the WSW and all of the Strand was trash. The North End was mushy and weak with fifteen guys on it. Meanwhile the Ship was empty and I saw a few waist plus bowls that looked do-able. Fuck, I drove, my girl is out of town for her bachelorette weekend and I have no job thus I was surfing no matter what. For the most part it reminded me of a shitty day in Florida in front of my parents house except I would have been in board shorts there. Every now and then a solid set of stomach high plus lefts would roll through and if one could line up the second or third one with the rip tide the face would be a little cleaner and the rip would force some shape. I managed one cool little barrel and an air. On a day where it was absolute garbage I will take that to the bank. If only we could take waves to the bank I would be fucking rich. Alas even when I did get paid to surf it was barely enough to feed myself. I am going to go suck some dick for crack and then sell that crack to children. Cheers….(sarcasm intended in that last statement, please no hate mail). Oh I’d also like to wish a Happy Birthday to my younger sister Val.
3-6-20 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 78
Small surf and wind was pretty on tap from when I woke up this morning. I wanted to surf and had to get Angers his board back. I figured worse case scenario I could take my new Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz to Ventura Point for a spin. Angers and I met at the North End and though small there were a few lefts by tower one that looked rip-able. Of course the wind picked up as soon as we paddled out adding a bunch of bump an crumble to it. We made the most of the slop and for most part always enjoy a surf together. Looks like some swell along with some questionable wind conditions for the weekend. Either way I will be on it.
3-5-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
Miles Driven 78
I almost didn’t even bother driving this morning. The buoys and reports were all lacking as was the weather. Considering I am currently not employed at the moment it was not like I had anything else to do. There was some steep wind swell that did peak my interest enough to warrant a trip to the Strand. When I first got there it looked about waist high with occasional chest high set, clean with a little wind on it and only three guys out. It looked fun enough for me to paddle it. Once out there I was more solid and more powerful then I had initially thought. The shape was really peaky too. The only downside was it was a bit inconsistent, the current to the south was a fight and with the draining tide there were plenty of tough rips. That being said I had a blast and even squeezed into a couple of micro tubes. Ryan paddled and got a few as well. Angers missed out cause he had to take his cat to the vet. Rest of my day was spent coordinating the rentals for my wedding, immediately followed by ding repair. By the way I am currently taking on ding work to supplement my lack of income. So if you got something you need done now is the time. Help a brother out.
3-4-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 78
The south wind has been out of hand the past few weeks. Toady was no exception. It was howling up the coast. The cam looked lighter in Ventura so I made the drive. New Jetty was the cleanest wave around, but packed and a bit lack luster as well. I drove to Strand just to rule it out. The Ship had a chest high wave coming in off it. It was a bit chopped up with the south wind. The faces were clean enough to surf and there was even the odd barrel, not that I found my way into any. There were actually some decent punt sections and some runners. I had fun for what it was. Rest of my day was spent doing ding repair. My lady in LA for the rest of the week for a museum conference then in San Diego for the weekend to attend her bachelorette party. I guess I am sort of a pseudo bachelor myself this week. How quickly life comes full circle. I currently find myself unemployed, broke and alone. FML…
3-3-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 78
There was some steep wind swell on the buoys and with the wind looking to stay down till late morning I headed to Strand. Of course the wind decided to come up before I even got there. Luckily the North End had some sets coming through and was getting a little protection from the wind by the Jetty. Angers, Ryan and I jumped in near tower one and frothed on the open left and right corners coming through. Some of the rights were good for three to four turns. I let Angers demo my Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz and he was in love. That board is a dynamo in the slop and sub par conditions after all. My back felt a little bit better too allowing me to actual do some damage out there rather than kook it like yesterday. I filed unemployment today considering I am at the moment out of a job. Anyone out there have some gainful decent paying employment out there I will do anything and am capable of doing anything. Feel free to reach out.
3-2-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hobsons
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 41
Another day where I was yet again fucked by the wind. By nine it had switched from Off shore everywhere to west south west. I found myself driving around looking at waves that just minutes earlier were very fun, but now trash. When the wind is south there aren’t many places to go hide. Hobson’s left is one of them. I saw enough waves to warrant a paddle. My back was really hurting me today limiting what I was able to do on the choppy, warbly faces. I made the most of it and got a few long ones. It was a lot of work and I was constantly fighting through the resistance and pain of the injury. Angers got North Strand solid and fun early, while Ryan found a few at Ventura Point where the wind was not as hard. I spent the rest of my afternoon installing a garbage disposal in my kitchen cause my landlord is a an ass and charges me way too much for anything I need done.
3-1-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 30
Talk about a wash out of a weekend with wind. I woke up to whipping WNW winds basically trashing all the south beaches, while not enough swell for the protected points. My fiance had to do some last minute shopping for her bachelorette party this coming weekend in San Diego. After we had a look at Rincon. It was still very small maybe waist plus at best and a bit crowed for what was on offer. The shape was all broken up as well. I had no interest in that kind of grovel and called it a day.