Surfing Ruined My Life

September 2014 Surf Sessions:

9-30-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Another sub par day in California.  That’s not a shock there.  California has waves just about everyday though 90% of the time one has to endure shit conditions.  It is almost a quantity vs. quality conundrum.  Beats not surfing I suppose.  I actually was not expecting much anyhow.  The buoys weren’t reading shit. On the way down SB had some local wind swell.  I stopped and had a look at Rincon I probably should have paddled out there for it may have been although small the best waves I came across this morning.  Observing the small rise in the wind swell I assumed Emma Wood to be the call, but it sucked there.  Ultimately I was at the Harbor with my friend Matt, out of options and over looking around thus we paddled small, backwashy crowded New Jetty for lack of a better spot.  There actually a few gems out there except I could not get a good one if my life depended on it.  Frustrated I bailed an cruised up to J7 to take to Jason about my next 5’10.  We decided to shave 1 liter off the total volume of the board, add 1/8 inch of tail rocker, tweaked the concave and added 1/16 inch of nose rocker.  We will see if these changes pick up things a bit.  Well thats all for now.  Tonight is the first installment of a new season of family dinners here at the Palace.  Jalama is the plan tomorrow and looks like it will be a score.

9-29-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 25
After yesterdays morning fiasco I vowed to not sleep in anymore if I can find waves to surf, unless of course circumstances from the party the previous night keep me in.  If you have read here for a bit then you know what that can entail.  Pretty much anything and everything one can imagine from a night of drunkenness and debauchery.  When I woke up and saw that there was not too much on the buoy I figured I might as well go have a look.  I started at Ventura Harbor, and I bet River Mouth could have been fun if I had got there about an hour ago.  New Jetty looked average at best and too crowded for the crap coming in there.  For whatever reason Ryan wanted to join me for a grovel.  I checked Emma, but it really wasn’t all that inspiring even for a grovel.  I checked Gold Coast right at the entrance to Emma and there was a tiny left running that although small looked like it could be do-able.  Fuck it I paddled and it turned out to be perfect GI Joe surf.  I even found two mini tubes.  Now if only my new board worked I would have been in business.  Ryan came out and blew it up on his softie.  Work was hectic as usual.  Chef was on the war path leaving me behind to smooth everything out.  I have never in my life had to be the good cop.

9-28-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I woke up and checked the buoys, although the wind was crazy last night no real swell was showing.  Actually they looked worse then they had Saturday.  Over the weekend bullshit I decided to sleep in.  Saturday night was once again an average night at the Kitty.  I thought I might enjoy a peaceful morning for my thoughts in my garden.  That was until my girl’s cat Rudy decided to take a piss on the bed followed by Alfie taking a retaliatory shit in Rudy’s bowl.  Plus someone also threw up there breakfast.  Ahh the joys of pets.  Lets just say I didn’t mind going to work today.  I guess I should have just went surfing.  Serves me right.

9-27-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I was once again reminded why I am never all that motivated to surf in the morning on a Saturday.  For whatever reason I decided to not get shit housed at the Kitty last night so that I could surf this morning.  I was hoping for some NW ground swell, NW wind swell, south west combo action this morning.  Unfortunately all that was really showing was the wind swell. Given the high tide Emma was the call.  I got there and no parking was to be found.  I ended up down by cobbles.  Fuck I might as well have parked at Cstreet and walked from there I was so far away.  Then there were easily forty heads on it and the surf was weak as fuck and god awful.  You know its bad when a in a line up full of very proficient surfers no one is getting a good ride.   I forced out a session where I must say not one redeemable wave was found.  I had one back side tube that could have been sick had I not gotten dropped in on while coming out.  Kooks!  Then I got stuck in dumb weekend traffic on the back up to the Barb for work.   Whooot! who loves the weekend?

9-26-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 30
Some shit East wind decided to tear up the weak as NW ground swell that we barely saw this morning.  It’s official, Rincon is open for business.  All I saw in the lot was camper vans and the like.  Tourists everywhere.  I suppose that is one of the downsides to having one of the great waves of the world as your local spot.  It was terrible so I went to Emma where although on the crowded side there were some solid peaks coming in with a tad bit of side shore wind.  I paddled and had a really good left barrel right off the bat. Then the crowd doubled and the waves got softer, the current got worse and I just wasn’t making much happen.  Ryan paddled and he confirmed my frustration.  I managed another left barrel, but that was about it for me.  My new board and I although felt good yesterday was a bit of a dog today.  I definitely need a thinner board next time around.

9-25-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
I called in sick to work this morning because I didn’t feel good.  I am not sure though if the reason I didn’t feel good was because of work or the cold I have been fighting off.  The problem with working in a school is that there are germs everywhere.  I always pick something up right around this time of year.  Then again around February and usual around April.  It is just how it goes.  Shit a few years back I got the fucking flu and that sucked monkey cock, think I even missed a good day at El Cap because of it.  Will have to look at some old surflog entries for that.  Anyhow but I am also sick of my job.  Being the unofficial sous chef sucks, I use the term unofficial mind you because although I am doing the job and have all the entailed responsibility I have yet to be named it by my superiors.  Instead it is merely implied.  To be honest I am over all of the stress, frustration and exhaustion involved with the whole thing.  When I woke up at 6:30 and felt like shit I didn’t hesitate to call out.  My laments with work could be an entire blog though one I will have to wait to write in the worry that I may lose my job as a result of it.  Of course that may be a good thing cause then I can have my free time and peace of mind back.  I slept in till around 11ish or so then kind of kicked it around the house waiting for the tide the drop.  Unless I was bed ridden nothing was going to keep me from Rincon this afternoon.  I got there and it was way smaller and way more torn up then I had expected.  The Buoys were solid, 11 ft at 14 seconds, 300 degrees.  The ‘Con should have been sick.  The lines were all broken up and it was packed.  Over it I decided to have a look at some of my other NW swell go to spots, Little Rincon, Hobsons and Pitas.  All sucked thus back to Rincon I went.  Bizarro came along to shoot roll.  Rincon was average at best and extra crowded since it technically was the first predicted ground swell of the season.  I spent my time between River Mouth and High Cove where it was in my opinion the cleanest with the best walls.  I was glad to get a few but after 17 waves I was done.  I was over it before I even paddled.  Today’s condition photo is courtesy of Bizarro.

9-24-14 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 39
Might have been the worst Jalama I have ever surfed, definitely the smallest.  I sort of missed the boat by about an hour or so.  The initial plan was to get up super early and hit before the high tide set in with the off shore winds.  My lazy ass slept in until ten instead.  At that point I needed to wait till the tide started to drop.  I should have split right at ten.  Instead I meandered around my pad for awhile not making it the “J” till about 12:30 or so.  Two heads were out pretty much groveling the wind blown peaks.  Part of me wanted to bail on the whole thing.  Then again I drove and it would be a real waste to just turn around and leave.  I wanted to surf anyway.  I paddled and although terrible I found a few choice lefts.  I really do think this board is a dud.  I am fighting it on everything.  I am still waiting to see it in good waves, hopefully at one of the points tomorrow after work, but I have low expectations for that thing.  I need something thinner, with more rocker and more narrow.  The label on the board says whatever though it should have been a Mad Max and that is basically how I can describe its performance, whatever.

9-23-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Bizarro and I shoved off bright and early in the hopes of finding something to shoot up north.  There was hardly any swell any place, but if we had any chance north was our best bet.  We gave Jalama a look and although tiny there were still some chest high waves coming through with semi-clean conditions.  Cracks had six guys on it milking the place for all it was worth.  The tide was a bit on the high side thus I hung out on the beach for a bit waiting out both it and the crowd.  Three guys got out and I saw a solid set.  With the wind threatening to come up I did not want to waste anymore time.  I paddled and it was far from good but I did find a few and as far as the shoot went I think we may have gotten some solid ones.  My new board on the other hand feels still a bit on the fat side, unresponsive and sluggish.  It feels like a board for an average surfer to play around on.  I need more rocker and a thinner outline.  May be going back to the drawing board with this one.  After the surf we grabbed lunch up at Jalama Beach Cafe followed by a stop up at Beckman Vineyard for a little tasting and my monthly club pick up.  I also scored an entire case of very nice 2010 granache for 144 bucks.  Thats 12 dollars a bottle!!! What a deal.
 9-22-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft

That is what cstreet was calling it.  I looked at the cam and it looked weak to me.  Add in a 5 ft high tide at 9am with minimal conditions and deplorable sand everywhere and sleeping in seemed like the call.  No sense burning ten bucks in gas to grovel.  Looks like another run of NW swell for the end of the week meaning more point action!  I told you I had a good feeling about this year. Bizarro and I are going to try and shoot some footie at Jalama tomorrow as part of our new weekly “Tuesday Sessions”, which I think may become a regular segment here at SurfingRuinedMyLife.net.

9-21-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I was woken up to sounds of my neighbor banging out some bar slut for about twenty minutes or so.  I can assume it was a bar pick up by the sounds I heard.  Good on him.  Nothing better then a good ole bar whore. Bizarro, Kirby, Griffen and I charged Kitty yet again for yet another average night.  It was like big group night out.  There were wedding groups, bachelorette groups, bachelor parties, birthdays, etc.  Nothing makes the club less social then large independent groups.  Whatever we were all styling, got drunk and made the best of it.  Whoot.  Who fucking cares since I woke up to near flat conditions anyway.  I think I am going to make the Jalama run Tuesday.

9-20-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
With a significant drop in the swell I saw no logical reason for not going out and getting Fancy with my boys at the Wild Cat.  Unfortunately it was a rather average night for the club.  Nothing really significant happened.  Whatever it still beat sitting home on the couch.  Next morning I as feeling rather tired and a check on the cam and it looked far from epic.  There was a five foot high coming up at nine.  Over it I went back to sleep.  I just came off a dream run the past few days and had no problem missing a day.

9-19-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
After some brief car surfing which proved not fruitful I found myself desperation paddling Indicator where I saw a few lefts coming in.  What I thought was going to be an average surf turned into a froth.  There were lefts, rights, and straights to be had by all.  I mainly stuck to the left, but managed to rights that ran all the way to Mid River Mouth.  Of course there was a straight or two. I rode my new board.  So far its def not a magic one though it rides.  The waves were average so it was not the best test.  Time will tell.  I burned some poor guy on my last one but I did have to go to work and if it made him feel better at least I ripped the shit out of it.  I am sure he will try to drown me there five years from now for the incident.  Ok its Wild Cat time now.

9-18-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
Fucking A’!!! Three session at El Cap and now a Rincon session, A REAL RINCON SESSION.  WTF!  I know I shouldn’t jinx it but I think we are in for a hell of a season this year.  Fuck why not after all we have suffered through three years of shitty fucking seasons and not just one season, no SEASONS.  We are owed this. I for one am primed.  It only took two days of Santa Barbara points to remind why I put up with all of the bullshit I do to live and surf here.  I fucking love Rincon.  At this point the place really does feel like my home break.  I am not claiming it as if I was born here so please no angry comments.  What I mean is that I finally feel comfortable at the point.  I can competently surf it at any section, any tide, any wind, any swell.  I feel good out there most of the time. When I first moved here I always felt kooky out there and that I was blowing it.  These days I feel right at home.  I know almost everyone who regularly surfs it as well.  I don’t know the exact numbers of hours I have spent surfing there in my life time though I actually have the data for the last four or so I would estimate that I have spent half a year of my life devoted to just surfing Rincon in collective hours.  I got out of work at 3:30 and I must say it was a decent day.  Chef and I held the first of what I  hope to become a weekly cooks meeting every Thursday.  I think the kitchen has really taken to me taking the reigns as second in command.  I assumed I was most likely going to have to endure really bad windy Emma Wood or Solimar or even New Jetty as a last ditch effort.  As I was heading south I noticed solid waves at Santa Claus Lane and even the out shoals in Carp had feathers.  If the outer shoals are going then it is a give that Rincon will be at least chest high if not better.  I pulled off and there were enough cars in the bottom lot and people pulling boards to indicate there were waves.  I walked down and was greeted with a solid four wave chest to head high set that sent me running up the trail to the lot to get out there.  What ensued was a Rincon froth.  I surfed from River Mouth all the way to mid Cove through out the entire session and had a few I cleared that distance on.  My boy Robbie was out and a few other characters I always enjoy surfing with.  I was claiming opening day till a buddy of mine who has lived here way longer then me said no cause it was just wind swell, though I like wind swell better then ground swell anyway, plus it was solid chest to head with nice long lines. Whatever, it is opening day to me.

9-17-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
I wasn’t expecting to get a second surf in today.  When I got out of the water at noon it was still pumping.  I was starving and needed some nourishment.  I ran and grabbed a bite to eat then came back.  Once again when I got to the point it was deplorable looking with onshore wind and a hefty crowd on it.  I watched it for about 45 minutes then just decided to paddle out anyway since I was there.  With the incoming tide there had to be a few sets.  I got out there and all of a sudden sets began to flow in again.   I had a few gems. Lindsay and Johnny were out getting their share as well.  The biggest set of the day came through and I got one out of it that was sick.  I got out around 4pm and just chilled for a bit on the rocks.  El Cap is such a wonderful scene.  It reminds you why you surf in the first place.

9-17-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
After last night I decided I would dawn patrol it at El Cap this morning and I actually did.  It is so very rare that I actually get my ass out of bed before 8am these days.  When I first showed up it was super slow so I watched it for a bit and in that duration I saw enough to motivate a paddle.  Glad I did too cause man the sets were on.  Sure you had to wait twenty minutes or so for a set. When one came it was pure harmony down the point, 12 waves or more per set.  Everyone was taking turns and getting sweet rides.   I had a take off air reverse combo that was sick.  By my 20th wave I felt like a gluten cause I caught so many keepers.  Fuck man what a surf.  El Cap is incredible.

9-16-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 35 minutes
Waves surfed: 6
This surf kind of happened by accident, but also as a testament to my absolute pig headed commitment to scoring good surf.  I stopped by the J7 shop to pick up my new stick, which looks sick although still feels a tad bit too thick.  While I was there I was complaining about how bad Malibu was when Tom mentioned that Jason and some of the boys had ran up to El Cap cause it was decent. It was already almost 6pm with a setting sun at 7pm.   My window was very small.  I knew I was going to spend way more time driving then surfing and the skunk potential was 50/50.  Bizarro and I went for it and sure enough it was on!  Perfect south swell El Capitan Cove with only about eight guys out.  Keep in mind this is crowd for a south swell where very limited sets get in and time between them can be up to thirty minutes.  I got in the water right at 7 just missing a set.  I got stuck sitting through a 15 minute lull before I caught two small insiders that were way to close to the rocks offering little then a squeamish drop to board saving kick out the back.  Then I lucked into a chest high set wave I hit six times solid to the beach.  After that I got a head high one I snagged eight turns on.  In the same set I raced back out and caught one mid way up the cove thanks to the margin of error of a fellow surfer and got a few turns on that too.  I was stoked.  El Cap is just such a perfect wave that it allows you to actually surf to the best of your ability with out having to consider the wonky weirdness of the wave.  It is just your surfing against the wave out there.  When you catch a sick one out there it is as if a tuning fork rings out in your lines.  My last wave was a bomb, but it was so dark I could barely see it and ended up blowing the last section.  Still for the three good ones I got it made the whole thing worth while, even if I drove over two hundred miles today to find the best waves no more then twenty from my home.  I love El Capitan.

9-16-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Zero’s, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
Talk about a bad call even if it was the most logical call?  Go figure.  2014 has just been one of those years for me: right place wrong time, right time, wrong place.  I just can’t seem to get in sync with surfing in general this year. If I score it is by pure fucking luck.  Maybe it is just because I have been so busy with life and work in general.  I am just not left with the amount of time it takes to really score anymore.  All signs looked as if Malibu would be epic today.  It seems more wind swell showed up then was initially intended adding an odd surface chop to some of the north county Malibu/south county Ventura spots, which I usually frequent.  Some of the more south facing waves were super inconsistent and stupid crowded.  Bizarro and I had a look, while Mike, who got an early start unsuccessfully slugged it out at Leo.  Leo was way too crowded by the time I got to it.  Zero’s was way too crowded and average.  I should have paddled at Point Dume, but it was a bit on the crowded side and a little low for the Bay and not breaking by the cliff.  The tide was getting higher and I think I could have gotten some real keepers there.  I let the crowd, though probably kooky get in my head thus settled on Zero’s.  It may have been a fun session there had the wind not came up by the time I got my third wave.  Between the rising tide, increasing wind and long lulls, throw in some unusually cold water(I was fucking freezing in my 2mm) and a healthy crowd and there was far from stellar surfing conditions.  Definately not worth the drive.  I ran into my friend Garrett again since he has Tuesdays off also and we both were over it and wished we had just stayed home where there was sure to be plenty of bad waves with out the $20 wasted in gas.  Bizarro claims he got some photos,.  Time will tell if the proof is in the pudding.  From there we decided to salvage the day with a Ventura thrift shop run, which was rather fruitful for both of us.  Although the highlight of  the day was at the first shop we came to where there was this lady bum passed out spread eagle on the side walk directly in front of the store.  We literally had to step over her to get inside. Then the cops came and took her way.  There is nothing like the California vagrant.

9-15-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Solimar
Time in the Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Today left me with no regrets about not surfing the weekend for it was yet another day of absolutely sub par conditions.  I saw some fresh wind swell on the buoy (the main reason there has not been a good Jalama session in a while) and thought with incoming tide there might be some fun ones at Emma Wood.  I was wrong Emma was super tiny.  Then I decided to burn five bucks in case and check Ventura Harbor, which was windy, small, weak and crowded. I went back to Emma, but after a twenty minute surf check deemed it unsurfable.  On a last ditch effort I checked Solimar and it was although still rather pathetic the best of the worst for the day.  I jumped in and found a few.  I some how managed a backside barrel that was kind of cool though I got jacked trying to come out doggy door.  I suppose it was better then not surfing.

9-14-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
More bad conditions thus another night at the Wild Cat.  Ashley and a friend of hers was out so we had a bit of a group for a change.  What was suppose to be light drinking night steadily found its way to Fancytown.  We threw a little shin dig back at Bizarro’s house.  I grabbed my sax and jammed out with his roommate Will on base till we got shut down by disgruntled neighbors.  I suppose blaring jazz saxophone at 3 am would piss anyone off.  Good times.  Think I will surf tomorrow.

9-13-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
What can I say after three days of surfing absolute crap I was over it.  Instead I got hammered at the Wild Cat, woke up still drunk in the morning and had a very very hard tiring day at work.  Like to have some crazy story from the party, but it was a pretty standard night.

9-12-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
How bad can waves get, well I hope not much worse then it has been the past few days.  The Marie fall out has really left a rift in things.  The Cstreet report was 3-5 ft, but I think that guy was on crack cause it was small everywhere.  I checked The Harbor, it was mushy and small.  I desperation paddled Emma Wood, which was windy, shore breaky and trash.  I found a few corners.  Beat not surfer I guess.

9-11-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 45
First off let me take a minute of remembrance for all those who lost their lives on this day thirteen years ago.  I am sure there were more then a few surfers who’s reign in the ocean was cut short due to a cultural misunderstanding.  For those lost souls I try and make a point to paddle out if I can help it and dedicate the waves I rode to all those surfers that died that day thinking after work that they might grab some waves.  It was fucking firing on 9-11-01 on the east coast.  One of the best hurricane swells of the season actually.  I know cause I broke my ankle that day doing a bs air reverse gone bad.  Those poor fuckers never to to surf.  Instead they were, burned, crushed, suffocated, or buried alive.   For you my extra terrestrial friends those 45 waves in terrible windy, disorganized, drained, closed out New Jetty were for you.  You know what I made the most of it and had a good time cause if a tragedy like can teach us anything its that every moment of every day of this life is precious and we should not squander a second of it.  Work was nuts, but I nailed my first two days running the kitchen all by myself.  It was definitely a lot of work, headache and stress.

9-10-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 25
I don’t know how the Cstreet pm report was calling 3-4 ft when all I saw on my way south was barely over waist high.  The tide was super drained, but still some pretty shitty reporting if you ask me.   Any how it is not like that was what got me south.  After another very hectic and exhausting (both mentally and physically) I really just wanted to surf regardless.  Let’s face it I live in California so most likely there will be something to grovel.  Being the boss sucks.  I wanted to be sous for a very long time, but now I think I finally understand why so many have come and gone at Westmont.  I am getting through it and earning great experience in the process.  Heading south all I saw was a ton of drained out spots with minimal swell at best.  Once I got past Emma it was small and windy.  On a last ditch effort I decided to check Ventura Harbor.  I went right to New Jetty not to waste any time on River Mouth were I knew it would be blown to shit.  New Jetty was pretty terrible.  It looked like Florida on a ride-able day.  I saw some decent reform on the inside.  If I drive I surf.  I suited up and ran up the beach.  There were four guys making the most of the trash.  I joined them and actually found a few fun little nuggets.  It totally was blown out Florida, though fun none the less.  It reminded me of days gone by when I was a grom and would surf anything after school with my buddies.  I wonder how many of the guys I grew up surfing with still paddled when its absolute shit or as frequent as I do.  Why am I such a hopeless addict, I wondered.  Then the sun began to set and lit up the sky in a kaleidoscope of yellows, reds, purples and oranges.  That water took on this dark green color.   The hills of Ventura went black and shone all the lights of the town back down on me.  It was in that moment that my own question was answered.  Surfing is more then just the waves we surf and their quality.  It is the environment it allows us to be in.  I could not have thought of a better way to end my day and I got ride a few waves to boot.

9-9-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo, Malibu
Time in Water: 45 minutes
Waves Surfed: 7
After lunch we cruised to Zeros, where the water was dog shit brown. Apparently a sewer main had broken there a few days ago making the water quality rather deplorable.  Conditions were rather small windy and pathetic anyway.  At that point to me it was a quick hail Mary check at Leo and then home.  Leo looked not as good as earlier, though there were some sets still pushing through the point with a very light crowd.  There were actually waves going unridden.  The tide was going down to a .3 and Leo hates low tide.  It looked as though I might be able to sneak in a solid hour thus I paddled.  I mean what the fuck I drove right?  I jumped in and lucked into a nice chest high set wave that I worked all the way to the beach.  Pumped I paddled back out right as the tide had gotten too low and all the bad rocks were exposed.  The peak began to close out making on the inside and wide peak do-able, which is far from great Leo Carrillo.  I snagged a few average ones.  Then the crowd doubled as work and school folk got off.  My ribs were bothering me and I was over it.  My last wave was solid and I got about seven turns on it.  I thought why not quit while I was ahead.  Plus if I left then I would just beat traffic back home.  It was not the best Malibu run I have made, but I am glad I went.  It was fun to hang out with Bizarro in a non alcohol situation for a change.

9-9-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Point Dume, Malibu
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Today was my only day off and I really wanted to surf something good.  I feel like there has been good surf all over the place, but my locked in schedule has me only available to surf a bunch of sub par conditions.  It also has not helped that the Marie swell completely destroyed every surf spot in Ventura by ripping all the sand out.  All we have is a very average sand bar at the very south end of Gold Coast.  I guess for one big swell we will now pay with a terrible fall.  Who knows, maybe it will rain…  Bizarro wanted to shoot a roll and with no so great Jalama conditions I decided to go to Malibu.  Mike was being lame and over it.  Trevor had to work leaving me with out a crew.  No bother, I have no problem going super low pro.  Although I guess when I guy with two cameras is following you around taking pictures it really isn’t low pro.  We cruised and just missed Leo.  I ran into my boy Garrett on the bluff.  He said about an hour ago it was solid with himself and only four other guys out.  He recommended I check Point Dume, a spot I have over looked in the past two years.  I used to surf there all the time, but had a few bad sessions in a row leaving a bad taste in my mouth.  I was sort of hoping Zuma would have some heaving shore break barrels.  Instead it was more like weak shore break mush and crowded.  We looked at Dume and it was a bit fat, but there were a few waves peeling through the bay.  The tide was high enough to keep the reef covered for most of the ride and no one was out.  I figured it was the best option for my first surf.  With the low tide I was hoping the wind would stay down and I could get a Zeros sess in.  Three other guys paddle with me, two novices and a long boarder.  Everyone was chill and there were plenty of waves to go around.  I can’t remember the last time I surfed Malibu with such a fun crowd.  It was far from epic and my board being pretty much destroyed held me back a bit.  I managed a few really good ones.  On top of that two bikini girls showed up and put on a little social media modeling show for us that was possibly more entertaining then the waves.  I forgot what a cool and beautiful Cove Dume is.  The water is so clear blue that you can see the entire bottom.  There were dolphins and fish everywhere.  It was just a really relaxing surfing experience and one I really needed.

9-8-14 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
I was determined to go surfing today.  After I had missed the weekend I was definitely feeling a little bit guilty.  Early on I got word that another fatal accident happened near Rincon making the 101 north a parking lot.  I figured I would just go tr and get a few at Indicator.  Of course it was tiny as fuck.  I was going to back the surf when I saw how bad the traffic was.  Then the thought hit me: “What is life all about then the ability to make poor decisions”.  Thus south I went full on knowing there was no way I was going to get back to Santa Barbara to make it to work on time.  I had a look about and the best I saw was the south end of Gold Coast right before the entrance to Emma.  I suppose this has become the new Emma Wood since the sand currently sucks at the real Emma Wood.  It had a nice little pack on it, but I was out of options and it really was the best I saw.  There were a few going by unridden making me feel as though there were room for one more.  I got out there and found a few.  My fucking ribs were still giving me a hard time hindering the complete enjoyment of my surf.  Then Virs paddled out and was being a dick as usual.  He yelled at me for supposedly getting in his way while he was attempting to high pump a flat section, when I though he should have been bottom turning into the steep section farther down the line.  Either way I still did not think I was really in his way or messed him up.  He made a bad call and blew it.  If blaming me made him feel better then whatever.  It still bummed me out and put a damper on the enjoyment of the remainder of my session.  I fucking get one hour to surf most days a week. I don’t need some ass ruining what little time I have with negative vibes.  Then I got to sit in an hour and a half of traffic for what should have been no more then a thirty minute drive.   It was better then I though cause I was only half hour late to work rather then the hour I thought I was going to be.  I had going in late cause then I am playing catch up all day.  Not to mention the fact that I had three new people starting making my already hectic Monday (my Friday) a fucking shit show.  I think I am going to go to Malibu tomorrow and really get myself all pissed off. Whooot!

9-7-14 No Surfing: 2-4 ft
After Friday night I was definitely staying in.  Yeah, how many times have I said that to myself.  Actually as I was driving home from work I thought about it.  Since both Thursday and Friday night sucked out then Saturday had to be good.  It is Santa Barbara after all, a town full of drunks and incessant party people.  Everyone has to get their freak on sometime and if it wasn’t the latter nights than Saturday had to be it.  Sure enough I was right.  Wild Cat was all time.  I can’t remember the last time I had that much fun at the club.  All my friends showed up, the usual regulars were out and about and over all spirits were high.  The drunken walk home I had to make with my co-worker and fellow Jerseyite Sean attempting to keep him from throwing down with every guy he  passed was exhausting though rather entertaining at the same time.  How we both didn’t end up in jail is beyond me.  I woke up and the surf looked like ass again.  I had a lack of motivation and rolled back  over and went to sleep.  Why not give  my body one more day of rest.  Starting tomorrow I am going back on a surf orgy and not going to miss any more days if I can help it.

9-6-14 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Of course I went out and partied on the night before a peaking swell.  It was a fucking south swell, which suck anyway.  Not to mention it was a Saturday and the weekends always suck for crowds.  It was an average at best night at the Kitty.  I woke up the next morning at around 8 am to very sour reports.  Over it I opted to sleep in and let both my ears and ribs have a break.  As for my liver he was working in high gear as usual.

9-5-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
After last night  I high hopes that Ventura Harbor with the new south.  Mike got there first and said it was not very good.  When I got there it was thoroughly confirmed that it was not worth a paddle.  Back to Sea Cliffs we went.  Emma was small and terrible.  The big swell fucked up all the sand there.  Gold Coast didn’t look so good either.  We ended up at Solimar for lack of a better spot.  There were plenty of fun peaky bowls to be had though a bit closed out.  They were boost-able close outs and you can’t shake a stick at that.  Unfortunately I must have done something to my right ribs cause it hurt every time I paddle.  Man, I am fucking falling apart in my old age. Oh well, fuck it, I am going to get drunk at the Wild Cat.
 9-4-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Gold Coast

Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 49
Originally I was toying with the idea of running up to Jalama for an evening session coupled with the rising south swell.  The tide was going to be a little high and I would have made close to a 3 hr effort for only an hour and half of surfing at best now that it gets dark around 8ish.  Mike was in Ventura to pick up a surf board box and met me at the Gold Coast, which after some serious reconnaissance we deemed the best of the worst.  What I thought was going to be a Lisanti 20 became a wave catching shit show affair in some of the more deplorable conditions one should ever be forced to endure.  The water was warm.  It was a very nice September evening and I was in the company of a good bud so why not surf till the sun set.  shit, it sure beat the hell out of working.

9-3-14 AM Session: 2-3 + ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 51
It was suppose to be another early Jalama morning, then Mike bailed thus allowing me to sleep in a bit longer.  At 9am I cruised to the “J” with the hopes of finding some fun surf.  I was not expecting much knowing that we were between swells at the moment.  I pulled up to the bluff and there were more waves coming in then I had thought with a light crowd.  It was only about chest high with the occasional Jalama bomb, but very rip-able.  There seemed to be more wind swell sets then south swell sets though the buoy had more south on it.  I guess there were four different minor short period swells in play making for a consistent surf.  Unfortunately most waves were on the weak side.  The bottom is set up perfect for sizable surf with some power behind it, but tad deep for minor swells.  Still it was kill-able enough and I was on a froth.  I think my third wave was my best, though I had plenty of great ones.  I met a few cool guys that I have been surfing with all summer.  I am always pumped to befriend the fellow devote.

9-2-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Ah, nothing recharges the batteries like a good old Jalama day.  I would like to say it was the perfect way to spend my day off, but thanks to short staffing I had to go to work at 4pm.  it still left me enough time to squeeze in a surf so fuck it.  Mike and I got up to the J and it was clean conditions and long lines with only a handful of guys out.  One thing nice about summer being over (by idiot standards at least) is that the place is no empty.  No more stupid campers annoying the piss out of us hard core guys.  The surf was a tad bit smaller then I had hoped.   That being said it was still in the head high range and fun.  At first I was hard pressed to find my momentum picking off bad waves left and right.  Then I figured out the new configuration of the sand post Marie and began systematically nabbing set wave after set wave.  I even found a barrel or two.  All I could have asked for was a tad bit more consistency, but I am not about to get greedy.

9-1-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Well what can I say for myself.  First I would like to thank to Wild Cat for getting me good and drunk as usual.  Then I would like to thank Bizarro Chris for taking our walk home to a very dark place while he was in a black out thus scaring the shit out of me.  I would also like to thank all the mother fuckers who made derogatory comments about the fact that I enjoy wearing suits out.  By the time I got home at 2 am I was in such a state of depression that I couldn’t sleep and stared off into space till the sun came up.  I checked the buoys and it was average wind swell.  I hate Labor day, any holiday in general that renders people off from work thus crowded everything and every where. I slept in.  I heard Emma was alright from Ryan.  Work sucked because I am still short handed as fuck and I got a talking to about why some idiot decided to walk off the job yesterday with out my permission.  INSANITY!!! I need to make some life changes really soon.