Surfing Ruined My Life

November 2014 Surf Sessions

11-30-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I woke up feeling a bit torn up from a night of very heavy drinking.  The wind was still south and I was rather unmotivated.  Instead I used the morning to arrange my room.  I heard Strand was alright and New Jetty had a few.

11-29-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
West, Isaiah and I got an earlier start considering they had to leave for San Diego in the afternoon and I needed to finish painting my room.  Unfortunately the south wind that very often couples good west swells was up.  We cruised south to find something to surf.  As usual when all else fails I end up at shitty Emma Wood.  The waves were scalloped out and a bit drained, but I saw a few boostable corners and maybe the occasional barrel.  It was definitely PGCB worthy.  We paddled and I managed a few airs and a tube or two.  As the tide got higher and wind died down instead of getting better the waves got less consistent, harder to ride and way more crowded.  Over it we bailed, got burritos at Lalo’s and called it a day.  I finished painting my room the result of which I was rather happy with then as always another night at the Kitty ensued.  West and Isaiah made it home safe.

11-28-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
There are certain surf spots that just manage to captivate a surfer’s heart and soul.  Waves that allow your imagination and creativity to flourish.  Waves that remind you just wonderful it is to be alive.  For Naples is one of those places.  Honestly I thought it was a long shot to even catch waves there on this day.  Besides scoring I was also able to share this humbling experience with my two buds West and Isaiah.  I am not going to lie West must have a leprechaun up his ass cause every time this guy and I meet up we score fun to amazing surf.  We actually scored Naples last time he was in town (check out the March ’14 Surflog 3/8/14 for more on that one) and although it was not nearly as good as it was  that time it was still one of those classic days at Naples.  I saw a good set at Seals when I first walked down the path and paddled there.  I was soon to find out that as a result of the high tide Seals was barely surf-able.  I paddled all the way up to the Crack Peak which was going off. Chest to head high plus running an average of a 100 yards some up to 200 with only five guy on it.  West and Isaiah joined me and a super session ensued.  I literally was putting on a fucking clinic out there.  My best wave was about a foot over head.  I nailed ten sick turns, two huge section floaters, stuck a big air reverse then banged out two more big hits and a close out hack.  What a fucking day of surfing.  Then we came home and I cooked up a chicken parm feast.  Night ended where else but the Wild Cat.

11-27-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
I had no intentions on even surfing today.  The swell was down, I was hung over as fuck from the previous night’s festivities, had some painting to do, and had to cook Thanksgiving dinner for a bunch of my idiot friends.  West and his boy Isaiah showed up at 11am and wanted to surf.  South looked pretty small and I heard it was crowded leaving us with North as the best option for waves and light crowd.  About half way through the Jalama road Isaiah mentions that we probably don’t have enough gas to get us back.  We had enough to get to the beach and at the moment that was all that mattered.  Cracks was small and fat, but for whatever reason Tarantellas was looking really fun.  It was about chest high with bigger sets, oil glass and both the left and the right were working.  We had a full on surf onslaught.  I had a fucking ball and so did the boys.   We managed to finagle some gas from some dude in the campground, who by the way had a wife with huge fucking tits.  Then we came home and ate a kings feast for Thanksgiving followed by a drunken night at the Wild Cat.

11-26-14 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Once again I found myself on the bluff at Emma staring at small meager offerings.  New Jetty was a tad bigger though fatter and wonkier looking. Oh and it was crowded with about 25 heads most of which were frothy groms.  I saw a few at Rincon and even did the 101 loop around.  The lot was crowded and so was the line up and given the steadily rising tide and dropping swell I thought it a bad option and didn’t even stop.  Lets face it Rincon is a destination wave and its a holiday.  That means every jerk off in California who wants to check the “I surfed Rincon” notch off their belt shows up.  Emma despite its poor showing was also crowded because thanks to Dane it too is on the map as a “good surf spot”.  Except Emma Wood really isn’t a good surf spot.  All it is really is consistent and most days kill-able.  A world class wave it is not and one does need a bit of local knowledge to succeed in getting the gems.  I always find it rather entertaining to watch visitors show up to Emma thinking it is going to be this great wave only to realize it’s not and Dane only makes it look that way because of his own personal freakish surfing ability.  As for myself I love that stupid shitty wave as much as Dane.  She always does me well.  Emma is like the average looking girl at the bar you go home with more times then not because she is there and accessible.  If that is they case then Rincon is the hot town slut and El Capitan is the Prom Queen.  Sand Spit is a fucking high end porn star cause she only puts out in videos a few times a year, but steals the show.  Chew on that stupid analogy for a while.  Yep that’s right folks Chris Lisanti is single again.  That is because my ex was like surfing Cobbles, a good wave at times, though it always looks pretty in pictures is usually a closed out pain in the ass to surf.  I think I am going to write a blog where I compare all of the breaks in the 805 to women.  Then every single female subscriber I have will unsubscribe.

11-25-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
I had not even the slightest thoughts of surfing Rincon this morning.  The buoys looked small, the tide was super fat at 10am and the reports were bad.  Well the Rincon report is always bad on Surfline.com right now cause whoever is writing it must be retarded or a kook or both.  Whatever, I will let it slide cause if the guy actually made good reports it would be that much more crowded. I was driving by on my way to meet Mike at Emma.  Let me take a minute to talk about that fucking guy.  Dude did an easy month stint in Bali with a little time in Oz for pretty much nothing.  I did the look back of death and sure enough I saw a solid set up top.  It was decent enough for me to do the Sea Cliff loop around.  On the way back up I saw another set.  I walked down to make sure I was was not tripping and sure enough I saw yet again another set.  It was good.  Nice clean lines, glassy conditions, light crowd and waves going by not ridden.  Stoked I ran back to the lot rerouted Mike and paddled.  What a fun surf it was too.  My new board is incredible.  I still have not found the sweet spot every time yet, but it is still a force to be reckoned with.  I had at least 15 waves that I did no less then eight turns on.  I was so stoked that I looked at it after lunch and it was still fun though more crowded.  Rather then kill my buzz I decided to go home and work on turning my pink room back into a MAN’S room again.

11-24-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Last night was actually a pretty decent Sunday out.  Two lesbian porn stars came up from LA and were all over each other for the entire night so at least the people watching was at an all time high.  I decided to go to Fancytown for absolutely no good reason.  In order to punish myself for being a moron I forced a surf despite the horrible headache I had.  Emma looked surprisingly fun though a bit fat.  I sat the Life Guard Tower and had few good ones.  The wave putting up a decent punt section and I stuck an array of airs I was happy with.  Towards the end of my surf I stuck more on the reef, which was a complete mush burger.

11-23-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
Fuck, I was hurting after another night of way too much hard party.  I over slept a little and could have ran for a quick Emma session.  I even probably could have grabbed a fast surf at Mesa Lane too.  I was exhausted, hung over and highly unmotivated.  Work sucked courtesy of the hangover.  I had a few different little employee drama to handle most of which was complete bull shit.  That is the problem with being the boss, everything is your problem.  Oh and I was short two dish washers thus I got to stay an hour and half late washing pots and pans.

11-22-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
Holy mother fucker did I get drunk last night and what an exciting night it was.  I almost got into two fights and then got jumped out side of the club on the walk home.  The first fight was between myself and this douche bag boy friend of a good friend of mine.  I have never liked the guy, but used to tolerate him for her sake.  Then he started treating her poorly, hit her and ultimately cheated on her.  At that point she left him and I lost all respect for the dude.  Once you hit a woman in my book its over man.  A gentleman never hits a lady.  Anyway the dumb bitch took him back recently. I decided I would be cordial to him for the sake of saving face but that is it.  The other night he criticized my out fit.  Now I take very much pride in how I dress. If you dont believe me read “Clothes Make the Man” and its actually a pretty funny read if you missed it when I posted it a few years ago.   Being I’m not down with the guy anyway I got a bit defensive and lost my cool.  Luckily I was smart enough to walk away then do something I would have regretted.  Last night he came out in order to fuck with me and throw some dirt about me around the Wild Cat.   Then he proceeded to get in my face.  I said “I don’t have time for your crap” and walked off.  He left after that.  Later on in the night these three guys were looking oddly at My boys Mark, Aron and Myself.  They began talking shit about Mark being a Pedophile, which he is not.  One of them lunged at Mark.  Mark used to work as bar security and restrained the guy, while I called for the actually Kitty security to remove the group.  When I left the club the three idiots were waiting for us in the ally way next to the club.  I was alone and someone grabbed my right arm and pulled me in.  I took a swing and caught the dude in the face with my left allowing him to release me.  Then another one of them came at me and I dodged his punch by dropping to the ground and rolling. I got up and ran away.  What the fuck, all I wanted to do was go out have fun and maybe meet a girl.  Shit maybe it was safer to have stayed with my girl…NAAHHHH.  I got up pretty torn up around 9am and cruised to Emma figuring it was the best bet with the tide and combo swell.  It looked fun though it turned out to be nothing but a mush burger.  I did manage a few alright lefts.  Beat not surfing.

11-21-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
I was hoping to get more Rincon action in this morning but a vast drop in swell and a fat tide had me searching.  It didn’t help either that the wind couldn’t make up it’s mind literally changing in every possible direction more then ten times while I was checking it  and another handful while surfing.  I had look around and every where looked like shit. Dane was checking Emma which was terrible.  Ultimately I ended up at Solimar cause there was not place else to go.  Best of the worst as I like to say.  It turns out the beach break was kill-able enough and I had an alright time.  Beat not surfing.  Whooot!

11-20-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 13
Oh man another good session at Rincon.  What can I say except that I had a few screamers through River Mouth and a few epic ones in the Cove.  The Crowd was a bit Heavy and the wind a bit south, but it was still some solid swell and nice long lines coming through.  When you get a good one at Rincon, a really good one and you start drawing that first bottom turn and gaining speed down the line a tuning fork just rings in your lions.  Ten turns later your legs are burning, but there is still another 75 yards to go.  So you man up and do another ten.  Then the close out section comes your way and you have to end strong so you use all the strength you can muster up for one last finish hit cause you know everyone on the beach has followed your wave all the way in and are waiting to see what kind of chops you have.  I love Rincon.

11-19-14 PM Session: 4-6+ Rincon
Time in Water: 3 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
Do you know what it feels like to pick off a set wave from a crowd of over 200?  Its stressful as hell.  First you have to battle the masses to get the wave and then you have to defend that wave cause there are goons around every corner looking to burn in a section that they know if they go you will not be able to catch them.  Such is the life when you live at world class wave in one of the most densely populated areas in the world, participating in one of the fastest growing sports in the world.  It had been a solid half hour before I caught my last wave and the one previous I dropped in on some Japanese kid hoping he would blow it only to see him right on my heels after I brought down m first turn.  That left me out the back doing the usual crowded Rincon shuffle from take off zone to take off zone hoping for the margin of error or a wide swinger.  On every wave there was always someone deeper. Finally in the midst of my frustration A bomb came through and closed out high Indicator leaving me the deepest.  The lip was coming over and I just got up with it and air dropped eight feet to the bottom.  I hit, my fins caught and I was locked into the tube.  Came out and then just hit the gas all the way through the River Mouth, then high Cove some dick tried to burn me and I bumped his rail with mine and he pulled out.  From there it was another countless turns, another little tube, more turns and a floater to end it at the Free way and where the old second call box used to be.  My legs hurt so fucking bad I knew it was time to call it quits.  That was the second one I got all the way through from Indy to Free Way.  What a fucking day.  I may have only caught 17 waves but 14 of those were certainly better then the waves most people ride all year or their entire life.  Bobby was out, Dane was out.  It was as good as Rincon gets.  As for myself I definitely need to get in better shape for this season.  My legs were shot after my first seven waves.  My arms are good, but I have for sure been surfing way too much beach break this year.  I need to man up, deal with the crowds and surf more point.  I was suppose to have a date tonight, but of course the bitch bailed on me.  Some bs excuse about how she had to write a 5 page paper for school.  Fuck I wrote a 5 page paper for JP yesterday in about two hours.  Just be honest.  “hey sorry I thought I was down with you but changed my mind”.  Her fucking loss I was going to cook a superb dinner.  Instead Trevor came by and we cooked a sick little Chicken over pork belly wild rice in a citrus burr blanc.  What a day of surfing!

11-18-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Sliver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
I wanted to surf this morning and my initial plan was to Jalama it.  The cam looked small and I had a bunch to do today.  I figured I would just go to Ventura Harbor, surf a quick twenty and call it a day.  I got to New Jetty and it was a bit crowded, small and walled.  I could have paddled there, but with the off shores I thought I might just have a gander at Oxnard Shores.  It was still a little fat and stretched there.  Shores had size and to me that indicated that Strand might be fun.  At that point I had already gone that far, what was a little more?  The ship was flat, but the bowl had a solid chest high wave coming in with nice groomed lefts and rights and only five guys spread out.  I paddled and of course as soon as I put my suit on the wind went south.  Luckily it was light and on and off the entire session making for a slight chop, but mostly clean faces.  I had a few sick little tubes and tons of good ones.  Definately worth the surf.  Stopped a Lalos for a burrito as always.  By the time I got home it was past 3.  Then I picked up my new board which is pretty sick looking.  I faith in this one.  After doing the usual surf shop cock and bull I finally got home around 5.  Then I had to help JP with his history paper and now I’m writing this.  So much for all of that stuff I had to do.

11-17-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 10
Talk about going to Fancytown last night.  Bizarro and I got obliterated at the Wild Cat.  Needless to say I had a late start.  Trevor said New Jetty and Emma were terrible.  As I was passing Rincon I did the look back of death which actually has gotten even more dangerous now that they put that new stupid railing up for the bike lane.  That damn thing is so fucking hard to see over I nearly die every time I pass Rincon going north or south.  I did the loop and decided to paddle.  Trevor met me.  It was pretty small, but I was surfing well despite being still a bit drunk and manged a few eight turn rides.  My best one I did a huge reo then comboed it with a section air.  Good times.  Even tiny Rincon is still way better then most other waves.

11-16-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
I got a later start then I would have liked, but I had some serious personal business to attend to which I will discuss at a later date.  I only had a limited amount of time and with that in mind Emma is always my best bet for a smash and grab session.  I got there and the wind was side shore/ offshore with a light crowd.  Not nearly as big as I would have liked and a bit more drained then I wanted I paddled left with no other real option.  I ended up having a really fun session with a sick little bs tube on my first one then hit three bs air reverses.  It was definitely a little froth.

11-15-14 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
So much for not partying too hard last night.  I woke up feeling sick to my stomach.  I am not sure it I should blame the Fire Ball Shots or the 7-11 pizza I housed with Bizarro at 2am or both.  Either way I was in no condition to surf. Fuck it I hate surfing on Saturdays anyhow.  Ryan surfed Hollywood and said it was fun.

11-14-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Cobbles
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
I should have probably manned up and surfed Rincon for it was pretty damn flawless out there.  Of course the crowd was already at 200 plus around 8 am.  I had a look around.  Every place was small up to C-street which was also packed.  Ryan paddled there and said it was soft.  Brook-o paddled Strand and said it was solid but packed.  I settled for Cobbles an average wave at best, but thanks to gnarly boulders, shallow rocks and random re-bar, plus a bit of back wash with racy, shifty peaks it keeps the crowds down.  I was out of time, frustrated and over the chase.  Actually I did manage to find a few fun ones. Beat not surfing I suppose.

11-13-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 6
Rincon was a bad choice.  I need to seriously consider moving.  I can’t believe how crowded it was for how terrible the conditions.  Inconsistent, small, windy, mushy and fat, plus over 100 heads in the water the majority being frothy groms and longboard kooks and you  have a very annoying session.  I should have just ran to Emma Wood, but I ate up all of my time while checking it.  I figured I would get a few as it got dark.  Right off the bat I snagged a good one at River Mouth.  Then I did not get another till past dark.  In absolutely pitch black I managed to pick of and ride five more waves from Indicator all the way to low River Mouth. Did I mention there were still ten guys out when I got out and it was way too dark to even see.  Fuck Crowdifornia…

11-12-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Buoys were average, wind was bad and all reports from my friends pointed to not worth getting out of bed.  Thus I slept in followed by actually cooking myself a chill little breakfast.  Then I got some much needed work done in the garden.  Isn’t my non-surfing and partying life so exciting?  Round 3ish I decided to go find some waves since C-street looked to have a few on the cam.  Everything to Emma Wood was pretty much flat.  On a last ditch effort I had a look at the Harbor.  I was going to surf anything to get some exercise.  Surf enough there was a terrible wind blown mess of close outs coming in  New Jetty with about 15 guys out.  That number is rather absurd given how bad it was.  A few years ago you were lucky to surf with three guys on a fun day.  I guess New Jetty is just like ever other spot.  I paddled and could not find a good one to save my life for the first half of the surf.  Then I drifted more towards South Jetty and began finding some fun corners.  Far from epic, but better then nothing.

11-11-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma  Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 32
I was exhausted when I woke up this morning thus slept in till after nine.  All reports were average and my only motivation to get up early was to get Strand before the tide got too high.  Turns out Strand was small along with everything else.  Jalama was solid, but I had other things to handle today not allowing me to make that trek.  Trevor surfed Emma and claimed it was alright.  I checked Rincon and although there was a surf-able wave up top it was far from the grovel I was interested in.  I went to Emma and it was fun enough looking with an ok crowd.  I paddled and had a good time.  I was feeling pretty good out there today.  Stuck a huge ally-oop and brought down but came unglued on a host of other airs.  I was going to see about surfing Rincon on the out going, but lacked motivation so I bagged it.

11-10-14 AM Session: 1-2ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Today’s surf was owed entirely to Trevor who upon hearing my bleak predictions about finding anything to surf considering the cams and buoys texted me “fuck it, I’m going for it”.  My response “you ass I’m on my way”.  Of course I was right when we got there and it was barely double over ankle.  There were a couple mini-groms on it and it may have been stomach high on them.  We did our usual Monday morning Emma Wood parking lot bitch about how life sucks and that we should have never tried to get ahead in it.  Life was better when we worked dead end jobs with no responsibility.  Instead now we work dead end jobs with lots of responsibility and very little extra compensation for that headache.  Fuck America and fuck California for that matter.  I just want to go surfing is that too much to ask?  Fuck, while I am at it, Fuck Alcohol, Drugs, the Wild Cat, Women, Rent, Money and adulthood.  Ok, now that the rant portion of this paragraph is over lets move on to the surf.  It was light off shore and heck if it was Jersey I would have paddled, plus I tear the shit out of GI Joe surf.  As bad as it was I ended up getting a few fun ones, and even had a couple of larrles.  Work sucked as my boss proceeded to tear apart me and everyone under me right as our 5 pm dinner hit came on.  I lost it, went into the freezer and started punching everything in sight.  Four very swollen knuckles later and a sprained wrist I got back my composure.  I FUCKING HATE MY JOB!!!!

11-9-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Holy shit did I fucking have a serious black out last night.  Last thing I remember was getting a drink at the Wild Cat back bar round midnight.  From what I heard and can decipher I didn’t get home till 4am, said I was walking the streets of Santa Barbara all night.  At some point I went over to Bizarro’s house and tried to wrestle him out of his bed.  Oh did I mention the hangover was so fucking terrible, for starters I was still drunk till 3pm and then hung over the rest of the evening.  Whooooot!

11-8-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
After Halloween I was looking for a nice mellow weekend with limited party and some surf.  Of course we had to experience the first flat spell we have seen here in the 805 since August.  With no waves what the fuck else was I going to do but get drunk?  Fancytown it was.

11-7-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Not much swell out there this morning and with a deep am high tide what little could have been found was lost in the flood.  I am sure Jalama was fun.  Maybe Strand will be good this afternoon again on the low.  Supposedly a small NW push is to fill in through out the day into tomorrow.  Fat lot of good any of this does for me since I have to work.  Yesterday I got a near perfect evaluation and a $.58 raise.   Awesome, think those cheap fucks could have sprung for a whole dollar, but whatever money is money.  FUCK MONEY!

11-6-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
“Strand is super fun, I surfed for 4 hours”  was the text I read as I was decided whether or not to leave work early to try and surf.  I bailed at 3 pm and made the mad rush south to Oxnard.  Awesome, in the last 3 days I have put on 410 miles on my car chasing surf.  I got down to Strand, well actually I almost got killed by some most likely meth addict who almost took the front of my car off making a crazy pass on Harbor Blvd.  Funny thing about that was he was trying to get around my boy Robbie who was all making the dash south from Carp for Strand.  We ran into each other prior to paddling out and confirmed the story.  Anyhow I must say it was far from going off, but it was ride-able and since everything else was flat coming down I guess it beat not surfing.  When I first got out there it was sort of shitty, closed out and windy.  Then a seagull took a shit on my head, which I hear is good luck, either that or it is just bull people tell you to make you feel better about being shit on.  Actually in this case, like ten minutes after the shitting the wind died and the bowl started firing.  The best part was everyone got out and it was just myself and three other guys trading fun lefts.  I had one sick left barrel towards dark.  The sunset was spectacular and the full moon was rising over the land.  I ended up surfing way past dark just to bask in the splendor of the moment.

11-5-14 PM Session: 5-7+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
I wasn’t even planning on surfing another session.  When I got out of the water I noticed things were still very clean and the swell appeared to be picking up. I decided to read my book a bit and see what was going to happen.  I steadily fell asleep and when I awoke all I saw were big clean lines coming into Cracks.  It was a little fast but I thought it totally looked make-able.  I soloed it and when I got out there it was way bigger then I thought.   The waves were a bit more walled then I thought too.  I always forget how much faster my eyes surf then I do.  I ended up finding a few sick lefts and rights.  It was a stoke bonus surf for sure.

11-5-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
I checked the buoys and they looked average at best.  I could have hung around for the possibility of an afternoon at Strand.  Strand and Jalama are pretty much the same distance driving wise, though Jalama takes an extra 25 minutes cause of the road.  Give me the beauty and tranquility of north any day.  Today was especially lovely with no wind and the sun reflecting on the water making it so clear I thought I was in the tropics.  The surf was fun too.  I was briefly detained thanks to some Hollywood shoot going down on the Jalama road luckily not long enough to piss me off.  When I got to the lot and began getting geared up I noticed my back pack, car seat and sweat shirt were soaking wet.  Turns out my larger water bottle opened up and spilled on everything.  Bummed because all my shit was wet and all I had left now was 28 oz of water for an entire day on the beach.  I guess I was going to have to rough it.  I got to Cracks and it was a bit fast and walled.  Tarantella’s had a solid right again and the occasional left too.  It was a tad bit bigger then yesterday and way way cleaner.  Stoked I paddled to the right and snagged a sick one right off the bat.  There were three other guys out but plenty of waves for all of us.  Then two more came out and it began to get a little competitive.  A bomb came in and I was the deepest.  I thought I was a little too deep and under gunned but this old guy I surf with there a lot called me into it so I went.  When it slabbed out I was still in the lip, but decided to air drop to the pit.  When I landed I hit my chin to my knee and bit the tip of my tongue off.  So much for tasting food for a little while.  I tried to drink a glass of wine tonight and had to pour it out I was in so much pain.  I surfed the remainder of the session spitting blood, but getting some sick ones.  My last wave was easily 8 foot off the drop and I ran it all the way into the bay.  Stoke!

11-4-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Some surf spots really change with the seasons and Jalama is one of them.  We have definitely moved into winter time Jalama.  With little swell in the water and Ryan informing me that Ventura Harbor was flat  I was left with no choice but to make the trek up north.  Normally this would have been fine except for the fact that I am still trying to kick this cold and was hoping to just have a smash and grab surf followed by a nice afternoon of R&R.  Alas to Jalama it was.  I made sure to get all of my morning errands out of the way before cruising.  My plan was to get as the tide was at mid since the last time I was there that was the best for Cracks.  It has been nearly a month since my last visit and of course between the rain and the past few swells the bottom is completely different.  I can only assume that now the higher tide if any at will will be the better tide.  Tarantella’s had a wave on the right.  The swell was too mixed up for the left and I think there is still too much sand in the channel as well.  One guy was on it and he was getting some thus I joined him.  It was a bit fast, but on the right wave I was able to manage around five or six turns.  I got a slab barrel on one mutant as well.  I almost died on my third wave.  I went for a deep left that swung very wide on the take off zone of the right.  Normally no one in their sound state of mind would go for a left at this point of the reef cause it would meet with a terrible close out from the actual T’s Left and dry reef.  On smaller days on little to no consequence I have gotten a few good lefts out here.  Although small I guess it was still big enough and strong enough to make this left a bit gnarly.  Still I committed and pulled into the tube. When I came out I was just inside of the T’s left take off zone and was dead on course with a boulder and the subsequent dry reef.  Luckily I still had enough momentum to get up the face enough to allow me to ollie the boulder then ditch my board and flounder for mercy over the reef.  Some how both myself and board came out unscathed.  It was far from epic Jalama, but beat not surfing.

11-3-14 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins 
Waves Surfed: 29
I know I write this at least once a month, but this morning really may have been the worst Emma Wood I have ever surfed.  Sadly it looked like it was going to be small but fun from the beach so I hit Trevor up and told him to bail on New Jetty.  Once I paddled out I realized it was way weaker, and way smaller then I had thought.  Not to mention the waves were traveling at such an odd angle it made then very difficult to catch and even harder to surf.  It was nice to get back in the ocean since I have been sick.  Trevor and I have not had a surf together in nearly a month.  So it was good to see him and bitch about how both our lives are beat at the moment.  Work sucked because I was sort of worn out from the surf and just not really into.  I supposedly ruined the beef pot pie, though it tasted and looked fine to me.  It was just one of those days where I should have just stayed in bed. Oh I heard Strand was fun….

11-2-14 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Damn let me just reiterate how much I hate turning back the clocks.  So much for evening sessions for the next four months.  I really wanted to surf this morning and the waves were with out a doubt fun as fuck.  That dirty water and my current condition had me taking one more day to the bench.  Better safe then sorry.  Last night Kirby, Bizarro and I went out as the main Characters from No Country for Old Men.  Our out fits were spot on, but being that it was an obscure movie most missed the reference.  Those who did get it were stoked.

11-1-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Well after all of the rain, Halloween festivities and still trying get over being sick I decided it best to sleep in and not surf.  Under normal circumstances I have no problem surfing during and after a rain but with my weakened immune system I felt it would be a very bad idea to subject my body to so much extraneous bacteria.  I am sure there were a few fun spots about.  Last night Tim-o, Amelia, Bizarro and I won the costume contest at Wild Cat.  We went as characters from the Princess Bride.  I was the Spainard, Bizarro was Andre the Giant, Tim-o was The Pirate Dread Scott and Amelia was butter cup.  I have wanted to win the contest there for years.  Good times.