Surfing Ruined My Life

June 2026 Surf Sessions

6-1-26 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 10
This morning was Angers’ last session with us.  Him and his family were heading down to San Diego for a few days then back home to Florida.  Bizarro was stoked because without Kevin he did not have to film tomorrow.  All that was left in the water was the south swells and just enough NW to add a bit of cross up. The long period south swell had really ramped up and there were some screamers to be had out there.  My right knee was feeling very tender from going so hard with the boys out there for so many days.  I’m the eldest of the group by at least five years and the only one in his forties.  Not to mention the 18 holes of gold we played walking mind you may have allowed me to over extended myself a little bit.  Nonetheless I still went out there and gave it my all.  Angers got hit with his board and cut his face in the first fifteen minutes of being out there.  Luckily it was just a flesh wound though he was really lucky cause the nose caught him just under his eye.  Between both of us being laid up Gabe took the performance win. We got back to my house with just enough time to say our goodbyes.  It was cool to hang with all the “O.G.” Clarks Surfboards guys but with three little kids among us I was very happy to not have another day hanging around a house full of screaming children.  Gabe is still around for one more day before his truck would be ready.   It’s certainly been a full house the past week.  I’m definitely looking foward to life getting back to normal.  My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards.