Surfing Ruined My Life

June 2014 Surf Sessions 

6-30-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 39
A point session at the end of fucking June on a sort of WNW ground swell in near 70 degree water?  What is the world coming to?  Climate change is happening folks.  Lindsay and I met up with Trevor at Pitas where although a bit on the fast side had the best wave I had seen of all the points.  Of course as soon as we paddled the wind came up out of the NW adding a much annoying side chop turning what could have been a super session into a something marginal at best.   After giving it my all up top with no real reward I drifted my way down to the Faria section, where although a tad smaller and mushier I managed to find some sick ones.  I got a solid handful that went over 250 yards.  They were mostly racers filled with section floaters and mad pumping, but it was fun to get to ride waves that long again after nearly two months of beach break.  The walk back with the higher tide and no boots sucked. Luckily I managed it with out any foot or leg lacerations.

6-29-14 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
The winds finally subsided up north to allow for some more fun Jalama sessions.  Trevor and I headed up for the after work surf.  Traffic and crowds south suck anyway on Sundays making a north mission more then worth the effort.  We got up there and there were tons of swell.  I have not seen so much surf at Jalama since the winter.  Tarantellas and Cracks were just about maxed out with a few guys on bigger boards making the most out of the chunky waves on offer.  I had a look toward Redemption but there was not too much coming there.  I saw the surrounding reefs had waves and went for it.  As it turns out we found a very adequate little left hand reef pass that offered a decent enough ride.  I managed a barrel and few good turns.  Chalk another one up to the bank for me courtesy of Jalama.

6-28-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Last night I decided to go super hard at the Wild Cat and found myself in a black out as usual.  No matter how many times I say I am not going to shit house hammered out I always do.  Too many people always want to buy me drinks.  It doesn’t matter if I spend $150 or $20 I end up the same level of drunk.  It was a fun night, but man was I in bad shape all day today.  Damn hang overs.  Why must we always pay to play.  Had a catering job at 3 just in time for me to get the shakes.  Whooooot!!! The reality behind the party life folks…

6-27-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, The Stair Case
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 53
Lingering wsw swell and minor south swell with south winds yet again had me right back at Tanks and Stair Case.  Being it was a Friday afternoon every place was packed. Emma had no spaces in the lot and neither did Solimar.  I went back to Stair Case where the crowd was a bit more mellow and there were some really decent looking waves rolling in anyhow.  It was a bit on the fast and closed out side, but when a good one did come it was good.  Basically the place was a skate park for me as I unloaded air after air.  I also got my fair share of PGCBs, which we all know I love.  I think few people like close outs as much as I do.  Right near dark I snagged this decent left and stuck a fs rodeo air reverse.  I have not landed one of those in like five years.  I was super pumped.  Too bad brown David was not there to get it on film.

6-26-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Tanks
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 51
And Tanks delivers yet again in another unexpected double up barrel fest.  Holy shit I had so many thick chunky tubes I felt like a gluten.  Ironically I was riding the same board I creased there the last time I surfed Tanks.  I had just finished fixing it yesterday too.  I had better luck this time, but at tanks your board surviving is always luck.  Many takers came out and gave the place a try, but few had what it took to persevere.  Tanks is a real Jersey wave.  It always reminds me a lot of the very top section in front of the rocks at The Cove in Sandy Hook.  Lots of backwash barrels with a heavy current that forces the would be close outs to stay open long enough to serve up some real real keggers.   I got my share of beatings as well.  Don’t think I didn’t.  Tanks works best on short period wind NW wind swell making time between sets nill. Like I said as Jersey as it gets.  What a surf.  If the wind had not come up hard out of the south I would have surfed till dark.  Pre-surf I work at SBB Catering with Calvin and Trevor.  We had to prep for this Saturday’s wedding. Its so nice to work in a relaxed positive environment instead of the shit show I have to deal with up on the hill.

6-25-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
With solid combo swell in the water today and great reports from the am at the Harbor my surf destination was a no brainer.   River Mouth had a wave but it looked walled, bumpy and all over the place and no barrels.  I was not about to go nuts trying to fish around for shifty River Mouth peaks with no barrel potential.  New Jetty had peaks up and down the beach with a light crowd that looked rip-able enough for me.  I got out there and somehow once again just like last night managed to stroke into what everyone called the left of the morning.  I don’t know how I get lucky like that, shit just comes to me sometimes.  The first half of my surf was really fun as I dismantled a handful of chunky, bowly lefts.  Then the wind came more up out of the wsw and the tide got full.  With that condition change the  good ones started to close out and the shoulders were soft.  I forced out another hour or so hoping it would get better before cashing in my chips.  I can’t wait for the wind to subside up at Jalama.  South does not even compare these days for me.

6-24-14 PM Session 2: 2-3+ ft, The Stair Case
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
After the Emma Wood session went to shit I decided to have a look at the Stair Case.   Sure enough there was a wave there and it wasn’t bad.  I saw a left even spit down by the houses.  Lets just say it didn’t take long for me to tear back on my suit even though it was soaking wet.  As soon as I got out there this left came right to me, doubled up and barreled down the line.  From what I heard from the guys out there it was the best wave of the day and held up for the entire session.  It was super kill-able with only five mellow heads out.  Trevor showed up and we enjoyed a splendid little evening glass off and sunset.  I am glad I didn’t end my day with the Emma sess.  I needed a little redemption.

6-24-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Once again I decided to burn up more gas on a fruitless check of the Harbor.  It was windy once again there thus I retreated to Emma.  Although small there were plenty of south sets coming through with a few groms and kooks on it. I paddled with about five other guys.  I found a few really fun ones as the crowd kept doubling in size every ten minutes and the waves becoming less and less consistent.  Soon there was easily fifty guys out with meager sets to choose from. Over it I scrapped a shit one in and bailed with the intent to find something else.

6-23-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 47
I heard Harbor had waves from Ryan and struck out for there as soon as I bailed from Westmont.  Unfortunately the wind decided to wait right until that happened and came up with a vengeance.  New Jetty was blown to shit and getting fatter by the minute.  Trevor was at Emma and claimed it was fun enough.  I got there and there were waves and it looked bowly and kill-able.  As it turned out it was very hard to surf and the line up was shifty as hell.  Getting a decent ride was nearly impossible and I was riding my spare board which I had to get used to and was bare foot.  All and all it was a more then forgettable session.

6-22-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Talk about having everything go wrong in a session that could possibly happen.  Mike and I cruised to Jalama early hoping to score some dropping tide Cracks and when we pulled up it looked pretty fun.  By the time we put on our suits the wind began to get on it.  Then the tide dropped out with in the hour making it basically a close out due to the over abundance of wind swell.  I found a couple at Tarantellas on the inside, though other then that the session was laughable at best and I got crazy frustrated.  In the midst of my utter tantrum on the terrible conditions I did a huge ally oop and broke the nose off my board on the landing.  Pissed I went in, kicked some sand, threw some rocks then buried my head in the sand till I got it out of my ass and relaxed.  After all it was a really nice day on the beach and a day at the beach, especially at Jalama is still a way better day then at most places.  From there Mike and I cruised back to the Barb where he bought himself a new stick.  Looks like I have to do the same for myself now, though my board is fixable.

6-21-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Trevor ended up getting a job as executive chef at a catering company in town and basically has brought me on as the sous chef.  Looks like every Saturday I will be a bit busy with work, which isn’t a bad thing.  I could have squeezed in a surf had I thought it had been worth it.  Reports and buoys looked bad so I was over it and decided to go in early and help out my boy.  I recruited Calvin for the gig as well.  We ended up working a 15 hour day that was as chaotic as it gets and Calvin almost lost his hand to a stack of 150 plates that fell on him.  Luckily he came out of it all ok.

6-20-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 46
Mike finally made it back into town after being stuck in Arkansas or something for like two weeks.   The plan was to surf something after I got off from work.  I checked the cam and sure enough conditions were glassy.  It looked a bit on the small side, but from what I heard Ventura was crap. Jalama was a go.  Sure enough better then glassy the wind was slightly off shore out of the south east and one guy out.  It was a bit small, but fun enough.  The inside of Tarantellas had a nice bowl coming off the rocks and I managed some really good ones.  Then a gnarly long lull came in forcing us to abandon T’s for Cracks.  At that point the session got really slow till very end where I managed three sick little tubes on my last three waves.  Far from epic, but totally worth the drive.
6-19-14 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water:1 hr
Waves surfed: 26
Today I decided was going to be errand day. I had much to do after all that had been put off for all of the surfing I have been participating in. Those of you who surf know exactly what I am talking about. The lay day chore day. Not wanting to deal with rush hour I left SB at 6:30 hoping for smooth sailing. That was a lie. I guess things have got so crowded it is impossible to beat traffic in and out of the ‘Barb ever. I finally got there and it was all sorts of terrible, windy, small, and closed out. It was shaping up to be a nice sunset and there are a lot of worse things I could have been doing at that hour. I paddled and as usual got a few.

6-18-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 44
If there is such a thing as too glassy then that is exactly what I experienced in my second session today.   After my dreadful morning surf I ended up taking a power nap on the beach.  When I woke up everyone was gone and I was all by myself at Cracks.  The surf was solid chest to occasional head  and oil glass.  There was one guy out inbetween T Crack and Crack. I thought I had only slept for an hour turns out it was more like three.  I guess I needed it.  My fucking suit was dry that is how long I was out.  Luckily I feel asleep with all my clothes on minimizing the sunburn.  I paddled and right off the bat was getting some fun ones.  I even found a few smaller tubes.  Not the biggest Jalama, but most likely the best I was going to find today.

6-18-14 AM Session: 2-3 + ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 46
Lately I have not been sleeping all that great for whatever reason.  As a result my fatigue and wild dream level has been off the charts.  I woke up a tad later then I wanted and headed up north with the hopes of escaping the grovel.   Unfortunately when I pulled up on the cliff above Cracks the tide was super drained, the surf a bit on the smaller side and there were at least 35 guys on it.  I took my time getting down there and even hung out on the beach for a little while waiting for the tide to start coming up.  Once I started to notice a solid increase in ride-ability I suited up.  The crowd was also dwindling.  The majority of people believe Jalama must only be surfed early in the morning.  Fact of the matter is if you know how to call it up there then you know that this is not always the case.  I was surfing like shit and could not put together a good ride to save my life.  The water was freezing as well.  When it got to the point that couldn’t feel my feet any more I called it quits, but resolved to hang around for another go at it.

6-17-14 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 63
I realized today that I am already over summer and it has not even yet to begin.  I am tired of seeing people everywhere on vacation, enjoying the beach, RV’s, groms, kooks, and all the other garbage that goes along with it.  Can’t winter come back.   Work was hectic as hell with 150 for lunch and 250 for dinner.  I somehow managed to bang out 42 pizzas in just over one hour.  I decided to reward such a great feat by groveling knee to waist high Emma Wood with my boy Matt.  Robbie was bailing from his grovel as I was checking it.  Glad to see that I am not the only one willing to surf just about anything.  I ended up finding some sweet ones and the water was super warm.  It was the first day I surfed with out boots this season and wore my 3/2.  I think that is why I surfed so long the free feeling of less neoprene with no less warmth was too amazing to let pass lightly.  Who am I kidding no one loves the absolute shit more then I do.

6-16-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
After another hectic as usual day at work where my coworker decided to show up two hours late leaving me alone to cook breakfast for 60 very hungry baseball players, lucky me, I found myself staring very discontented at yet another day of sub par windy Emma Wood.  The tide was just coming off high and things looked pretty slow.  I hung around the lot doing my usual bad wave sulking routine of kicking around dust, throwing rocks at the train tracks, checking the surf report and buoys on my phone (which I have already checked 1oo times earlier and has not changed).  I will make a phone call I have been procrastinating, pace back and forth around my car a few laps, do the usual bull shitting with anyone else milling around the lot willing to listen.  I can usual eat up an hour with this routine before paddling out.  As the tide began to change some half rid-able messy sets came in.  Over all it was average shitty Florida at best. According to Surfline.com Florida is way more consistent and fun the living in Southern California…fucking idiots.

6-15-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
I wanted to go back to Jalama again, but I had to meet up with a new business associate forcing me to surf local.  Emma Wood was my best bet even though it was small, windy, mushy and crowded.  Hmm…must be summer time.  I paddled and found a few on the toll booth peak.  I surfed well bad conditions considered. Just another day of monotony.  Work, surf, chill.  One would have to be crazy to complain about that.

6-14-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time  in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Turns out we all went a tad bit hard last night at the Kitty.  Trevor so much so he was deemed “white girl wasted”.  Thus we literally carried him back to my apartment where he proceeded to throw up all over the place.  Next morning post clean up and a crepe breakfast courtesy of Kooky Kyle’s wonderful recipe I decided the best chance of scoring was to go back to Jalama.  I feel it important to mention that at this point it was around 5 pm.  As far as I am concerned the first meal of the day is always breakfast no matter what time it is fucking eaten.  My girl decided to join me and we headed out a bit on the late side.  Despite some wind it was still very clean at Cracks and there was plenty of size with the NW wind swell and south groundswell.  Some of the sets were well overhead and I got more then my share of beatings finding my way back out to the line up.  I suppose the fact that I had easily drank two fifths of rum the previous night had something to do with that as well.  The sun began to set and conditions got glassier as well as more beautiful.  It was peak feeding hour and I began to get very bugged out.  When ever I am in a shark situation and I sense insecurity I trust those instincts and get out of the water.  He who surfs and runs away lives to surf another day.

6-13-14 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 51
Another flawless lunch was served up courtesy of me.  I knew there was not going to much but decided to go anyway. Wind was up for Jalama and I was not really in the mood for that mission anyway.  I got to Emma and it was rather deplorable.  After having an interesting conversation with some tourist from Seattle who got off at the wrong exit by accident on her way to Santa Barbara I had decided there was enough for me to paddle rather then spending more gas and time by checking the Harbor.  The crowd was light and it was ride-able at the very least.  When I first got out there I was totally not in small wave grovel mode and blew just about anything I went for.  After about the first thirty minutes I got in the zone stuck to the Life Gaurd Tower peak rather then chasing every wave I saw all over the place.  Although the worst surf I have seen in a week I still found a few.  Now its time to celebrate Trevor’s well deserved new job as executive chef at SBB Catering.   We are going to celebrate at the Wild Cat, of course.

6-12-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Last night what should have been a splendid little dinner party at the Palace quickly deteriorated into an urban version of “Deliverance” with a touch of “Fatal Attraction” courtesy of yet another psycho out break from my girl.  Long story short I found myself held up with the door locked in JP’s room before making a mad dash to the Wild Cat.  When I have to go to the Wild Cat to find safety you know shit is fucked up.  With all that chaos that is my convoluted stupid life I was pretty sure surfing was out of the question.  I was pleasantly (ok that is sort of a stretch) woken up by my boy Ryan saying he was on his way up to join me in yet another Jalama mission.  I dragged myself off the couch and loaded up.  Sure enough it was another flawless morning conditions wise although the sets were a bit more inconsistent with the receding swell.  We went back to the sand bar just south of Cracks that I have been scoring pretty much all spring.  The crowd was light, but the frequency of waves less making it a pain at times.  I found where ever I paddled and got a good wave four guys would paddle over and sit on me.  Then I would paddle over to their former spot get a few and all of a sudden a new clump of guys would find their way over.  Basically I stayed on the run from the crowd the entire session managing to score lots of good waves between very long lulls.  Looks like it will be the last Jalama day for a few days at least with the return of the some stiffs north westerly’s.

6-11-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
Just another near epic day of surfing for Trevor and I this morning.  After last night we were resolved to get an early start, plus Trevor had to be back in the Barb by 1.  With the exception of a heavy marine layer that could be likened to a drizzle it was near flawless conditions.  The sets were a bit more inconsistent, but way cleaner and more make-able.  I ended up getting one of the best barrels frontside I have experienced all year.  My first ten waves were ten out of ten great barrels.  Then I started grabbing some rip-able ones. On my best wave I thought it was going to be a slow lined up one so I stalled super hard on the drop.  Then it met up with another south set and went nuts.  I found myself riding the foam ball so deep I couldn’t see out.  I started on the gas and some how found my way out of the curtain way down the line.  When I came out I hit a huge air reverse and stuck it clean.  Oh what a day!

6-10-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
When a large amount of time passes between surfing good waves I begin to forget just how much fun it is to surf really good waves.  Fuck the past 10-15 surfs I have had have all been in sub par conditions.  I looked at the forecast and Jalama looked like it should be fun again.  Trevor and I  cruised up after I got off from work expecting to get some textured rip-able waves.  What we got turned out to be a head to over head oil glass barrel fest.  It was so glassy it was hard to even see the waves due to the flat light factor.  I missed a few gems cause I literally could not make out the wave coming in on the horizon.  Trevor and I both agreed it was some of the best surfing we had done in a long time.  I had so many deep good barrels I could have quit after the first hour.  The crowd was heavy, easliy 30-50 guys spread among all the various sand bars.  Despite the crowd Trevor and I found our own little bank just south of cracks that we ended up sharing with two to four other guys at any given time.  After two hours I was done, completely surfed out and Trevor was cold in his Swiss cheese wet suit. It was agreed by the smiles on every single person out there that it was a good day.

6-9-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Well that’s what Surfline was calling it, but from everything I got from my people was pretty terrible and not worth the effort.  I had to work form 11-7:30 and the morning definitely didn’t look good.  Thought I would squeeze in an evening session at Emma till Trevor said it was terrible and since him and I surf anything and everything together I was down to take his word for it and take the first day off I have in 39 days.  I will just go to Jalama tomorrow after work and make up for the whole thing.

6-8-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
With my parents finally gone and my girl working on some project all day I decided to grab Trevor and head to Jalama for an avro surf.  Conditions looked good and the buoys had enough swell for it to be fun.  We got there and it was still clean though a little surface texture.  On the walk we passed Pat and his crew leaving after putting in a full day.  This gave us the entire run of the place.  I started on the left at Tarantellas then made my way over to the right.  Both were a little too shifty and inconsistent with the rising tide and backing off swell for my liking.  I tried the inside reef at T’s, but that was a bit on the fast side and also inconsistent.  Finally Trevor and I paddled over to Cracks where we found some choice nuggets as the evening glass off set in.  It was far from the best Jalama ever, but way better then anything I have surfed since the last time I was there a few days ago.

6-8-14 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Another early morning with very little surf found Trevor and I staring into meager offerings with glum faces at the Harbor.  There were a few coming in at River Mouth and if I drive I surf so we paddled.  Trevor said it was one of the worst sessions he has ever had in his life.  I found a few though a good one was very sporadic.   My last one was my best so maybe that is why I felt good about the surf since I ended it on a high note.  Later I made a fair well breakfast for my folks before seeing them off to Las Vegas.

6-7-14 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins 
Waves Surfed: 30
I got an earlier start then usual and just as usual that means the waves will always tend to suck worse then they were supposed to.  Had I gone out drinking and slept in I am sure it would have been fun.  There was some annoying running race going on off of Sea Cliffs which made going slow and getting a spot at Emma for a check a bitch.  I don’t for the life of me understand why over weight out of shape people would enter a running race.  Obviously your not even close to being in the odds of winning.  Whats the freaking point. Lose 100 lbs, get fit then give it a go.  You don’t see me entering contests of sports I suck at.  Although I was a pro surfer for a while and competed in surfing and I suck at that so maybe I should not talk.  Emma was small and terrible thus I moved on to Harbor where there was a fucking out rigger race going one making parking a bitch as well.  I fucking hate Saturdays!!!!  Why do people feel the need to have to go to an event at 8 am in the morning?  Arrrrrrrrhhhh Grrrr!.  I could not even get close enough to New Jetty to check.  I saw a few meager offerings at River Mouth way past the Reeds and ran down there for a few.  At first I found a few though it was a bit back washy. I even got a couple of mini tubes.  Then it got to low and way to much back wash on it so I began surfing back to my car.  I  met up with my parents and we cruised up to the Santa Barbara Botanical Gardens, which has as of lately become one of my more favorite places to visit.  After that I took them up to Francheschi Park one of my all time favorite spots despite the towns lack of initiative to take care of the place letting the majority of the park fall in to utter disrepair.  Some action needs to be taken to salvage what could truly be a Santa Barbara gem.  For dinner Cal and I served up Tri Tip, Cilantro Rice and Roasted Vegetables.  We made an amazing Chocolate Bunt cake for dessert. If the Rangers would have won it would have been a very good day.  Who am I kidding I am not nearly a big enough fan of hockey or the Rangers for it to ruin my day.

6-6-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
I woke up and picked up Trevor since he was short on gas money thanks to loosing his key in the ocean.  That folks is why I never trust key pockets.  I once got stranded with a friend of mine at Lowers when upon walking back to the car he found that his key had been lost in the ocean.  We rolled to New Jetty again, but it was god awful.  From there it was back to Emma since I noticed a pack on it from the freeway.  It was rather crowded for what was coming in but there were waves there and it looked fun enough.  By the time we got out there the crowd died and it got super fun.  I was more then stoked on the surf.  Still I have mixed feelings on this board.  Later my parents and I went into the valley to go check out this cool ass mission restoration park near Lompoc.  From there I took them up to Figueroa Mountain for some beautiful vistas.  I must say it was another fun day.

6-5-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
I thought about running back to Jalama again, but my parents were getting into town in the early afternoon and I wanted to make sure I would be back in time to see them.  It has been almost a year.  I checked the buoys and Harvest has enough swell on it that I figured the Harbor would have something to ride.  I met up with Ryan at New Jetty and although a bit on the weak side there were a few lefts with a light crowd so we paddled.  It was way weaker then it looked and for whatever reason I felt like I was surfing in slow motion the entire session.  For the life of me I just couldn’t put together a decent ride.  This new board has proved harder to learn then I had hoped.  I do see moments of brilliance on it, but overall my ability to find the sweet spot has been limited.  After I got out of the water I got a text from my Dad that him and my mom were in Ventura.  I called them and we all met up for lunch then went to the Ventura Mission and kicked in the Downtown area.  Calvin and I ended the day by cooking up an amazing meal of Asparagus, anise, grapefruit stuffed dover sole with roasted potatoes and stuffed mushrooms.  I made one of my infamous cobblers for dessert. I would say it was a pretty cool day to say the least.

6-4-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
I had Jalama on the mind this morning.  All I needed was to see clean conditions on the cam and I was there.  Sure enough it was the case and at 7:30 I was on the road to Jalama.  They were shooting a Tom Cruise porno movie: Vanilla Sky II: The Wrath of Blue Crush, starring Rosie O’Donnald.  It wasn’t a pretty site, like watching a midget fucking an elephant.  Not really, but there was some bull shit Hollywood thing going down that caused me to be stopped for 15 minutes.   Luckily things were still glassy when I got to the beach and there were some solid chest plus bowls coming in and besides two guys at the campgrounds no one was out.  Stoked I cruised to Cracks and had the entire line up to myself.  I found some really fun barrels.  Then as the tide filled in a few dudes from Pismo showed up and two locs from Lompoc.  I noticed the inside of T’s was looking fun, which I like on souths better then Cracks anyhow and paddled over there.  Then it happened, I got a deep ass fs tube all the way down the beach on a rare over head high one.  At one point I was double stalling.  It was a sick ride.  Unfortunately I landed on my fins later doing a big fs air reverse, when I accidentally flipped my board on myself while grabbing.  It hurt my foot a bit and for a spell I thought I might have been cut and just didn’t feel it cause the water was so cold.  I kept surfing on it instead of being a pussy about it and turns out I was just fine.  Then the wind came up and it got shitty, which was fine cause I was freezing anyway since the water was cold as dick.

6-3-14 PM Session: 1-2 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
I should have passed on it this avro, but nothing washes away a very frustrating day at work like a surf.  I pulled up to Emma knowing that with very little swell and hard onshore winds it was my only options.  I chilled in the lot for a while waiting for Robbie to show.  He is always up for a grovel with me.  Right as I had given up on him and began to suit up I looked over and there he was down for the surf.  We were joined by two pint sized grommies who proceeded to remind us why they are way more suited for the grovel.  It was weak and all over the place and I just could not find my rhythm.  Still any day surfing is better then a day not surfing.

6-2-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Deplorable was the first word that came to mind as I stood on the bluff looking at waist high windy dribble.  My options were few and the difference slim.  I ended up talking with these dudes from the valley who owned a snow board company.  They were pretty cool.  We convoyed to Solimar, which was way cleaner, but way smaller.  I decided to go back to Emma and make the most of the trash as I so often do.  The boys followed.  As I was about to change my boy Robbie pulled up looking to paddle after his work day.  We went for it and actually I ended up having a really fun surf.  At first I had some trouble finding my momentum on the weak scrubby sections then as the tide began to drop the Life Guard Tower left started to peel to the beach and I was getting some really  fun ones.  It was the first time I really felt my feet on my new board.  Its good because I was beginning to get rather discouraged with it.  Figures I start to find the magic in waist high blown out crapola.

6-1-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Oh man! What a fun ass night we had at the Wild Cat.  Bizarro, Calvin, Trevor and I rolled out to the Kitty and partook in the usual party festivities that goes along with that.  If you read hear regularly I need no more embellishments and if you don’t well just read some of the old surf logs, especially from last year at this time.   A late start was had by all.  Trevor and I decided to just do a make it or break it run for Jalama.  We knew there was wind, but with almost no swell down south we figured at the very least we would just get some garbage chop and go home.  The kelp did a great job of keeping the faces clean even though the outside was completely white capped.  There was a little surface bump and sections that would have been sick shacks were mushy, but it was still very rip-able.  I surfed the inside of Tarantellas, which although inconsistent had a very bowly left.  Trevor opted for Cracks for a bit till he got spooked and came surf by me where he proceeded to land square on one of the dry rocks of the reef while going right.  He was fine besides being a tad shaken up.  The water was chilly and waves average so we decided to just make it a one and done though we did hang around a little just to make sure it wasn’t going to glass off.