October ’12

October 2012 Surf Sessions

10/31/13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Drunken stupidity puts me on the injury list once again. I woke this morning and my toe was three different shades of purple and the gash looked rather infected. I irrigated the wound and dressed it. Putting weight on it caused me more pain then I would have liked. Decided it would be smart to sit out a day or two and let things mend a bit. Certainly that big FS air reverse I went for yesterday at Strand did not help my case. Looks like some new NW on the way hopefully I will be back in action for it. If the points are on I am out there regardless after all backside is all heels anyway.

10/30/12 PM Session: 2-4+ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
I fucking hate the Strand. Yeah its some of the better winter time beach break around here but it is such a hassle for a SB surfer. First off the place is always crowded and always a scene. Next it is so far nearly an hour drive. Finally it is localized by the dumbest scum back low life’s of surfing civilization. I have never surfed there with out having at least some minor altercation. I was lazy this morning and rather unmotivated. I should have surfed Emma when I checked it at around 10:30. Instead I decided to go look at Ventura Harbor, which was walled out and windy. By the time I made it back to Emma the tide had begun to go out and the wind was tearing it a new one. On a hail Mary since I had not surfed in nearly a week my boy Pat and I rolled to Strand. There was a few alright peaks working near the ship with a light crowd. We picked a peak sort of to the north of everyone and minded our own business. Dane came out for like three waves, stuck a kerrupt and then went home. When I got back to my car, that I parked as inconspicuous as possible some jack ass decided to pour BBQ sauce all over my windshield and hood of my car. Fuck the strand.

10/29/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Still very small surf and low quality today. Not that it really mattered since I completely thrashed at the Wild Cat. It turned out to be a really fun night for the little bit that I remember. All I know is I ended up at a gay after party which I was thrown out of for playing the baby grand piano they had. Then woke up fully dressed in my bed at 11 just in time to go to work a complete mess. Whooooooooooot! Go to love Halloween.

10/28/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I guess I am back in nonsurf mode or is it that it is Halloween and the surf has been shit the last few days. I am going to go with the latter. Anyhow it really has been super small. So why not party. I pulled off Elwood from the Blues Brothers pretty darn good last night. Tonight I am doing a genuine Italian New Jersey Guido. Looks like some new surf on the way. I may or may not surf tomorrow morning depending on the night tonight. I ran into my friend Lindsay last night at CVS, she was with a friend and introduced me as her friend Chris who is a really amazing surfer and surfs everyday. I hate when people see nothing more to me then that. Do they not understand I surf cause I have to in order to survive and that I love it and its meaningless to me how well I surf or not. I just need to surf…

10/27/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
Small scale surf was on tap this morning and considering I went hard for the first night of Halloween weekend as Ace Ventura with a group of my co-workers. I ended up taking the party back to the palace where we raged on till 4am. Needless to say I as pretty torn up this morning and the majority of the day. But its night two of Halloween and what is a guy to do except rally and make shit happen. I am going as one of the Blues Brothers tonight.

10/26/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Buoys were still looking rather small and tide was really high. The only thing going in favor of a surf was the wind being offshore. I was hoping for a bit more. Top if off with a later then usual night thanks to an unexpected guest stopping in causing me more drama then I would have liked I decided to save my money and get a little sleep. Bet was fun on the dropping tide at River Mouth unfortunately that luxury was not mine today.

10/25/12 AM Session: 1-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I was not expecting much surf wise this morning. I wanted to get wet. I am sort of on a roll lately with surfing frequently and I feel really good about it. The more I surf the better I feel, physically, mentally and spiritually. With that being the case I have been logging in more water time then usual. I knew it was going to be trash, yet also knew it would at least be ride-able. To my surprise as bad as it was the line up was packed with the home school grom mafia. There were so many colored wetties out there I thought I was looking through a kaleidoscope. I had a few. I think it could be pretty fun tomorrow with impending offshore winds.

10/24/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Just me and the groms. I heard Strand had a few waves and with the dropping tide may have been pretty fun. I just wasn’t in the mood for the drive or the hassle that is Silver Strand. There was plenty of background wind swell in the water with some sw combo. Emma loves both changing tide and wind swell. I resurrected my Jessica board after destroying the nose of my Rex board at New Jetty yesterday. I though with all the wind the water would have gotten cold so I grabbed my new Xcel 4/3. The water had not dropped leaving me sweating and I was constricted with the new rubber yet to be broken in. I really have to remember that in Xcel I am a straight medium. There was a small crowd including Lakey Peterson when I pulled up but it was steadily dwindling so that by the time I paddled out it was just me and these two mini groms that are home schooled and always out there. I ended up getting a draining Backhand tube on my second wave, which I followed up with a huge BS air reverse on my next one. I had about two more right hand drainers that stoked me out after that before the tide got too low and drained the place out. Although short lived I would say it was totally worth it.

10/23/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves surfed: 30
There appeared to be a little more swell on the buoys this morning and the winds were rather calm. Expecting some pretty strong winds over the next few days I decided to take full advantage of some glass. It was rather tiny all the way down to New Jetty where I managed to find some peaky though walled lefts and rights. It was nothing to right home about but I did manage to snag a couple. I unfortunately I ended up stabbing myself on a frontside air reverse attempt that tore my suit and cut my shin. I also damaged the nose of my board go figure. Its always on the trash days I get fucked up.

10/22/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Meager offerings and bad wind left me in bed this morning which was fine cause I was tired anyway. Truth be told I was feeling rather lethargic all day. Believe it or not I stayed in last night and did not go to the Wild Cat. Guess I am saving it up for Halloween weekend.

10/21/12 AM Session: 1-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 26
I really wanted to surf today. Unfortunately the conditions were less then accommodating. Harbor was all blown out and on the weak side. I cruised to Emma where although a little drained from the tide there were some clean little bowls coming in. No one was out, which is a rarity in California ever. I drove and had to kill about an hour before work any how so I decided to paddle. With in twenty minutes two avm’s paddled crediting their decision on my own personal stoke. The three of us shared some meager crusts of bread and had grand old time doing it. Beat not surfing that is for sure.

10/20/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
I got little too drunk at the Wild Cat last night. Repeated yet another mistake at the end of the night. I think I will know when I am finally the person I want to be and am meant to be when I can control my need for instant gratification and truly follow what I believe in. Shit happens and I do believe I am making some progress then where I was even a year ago today, at the very least my drinking is a bit more under control. I think I want to learn one of the martial arts either tie chi or something of the sort to help give me strength, discipline, control, form and structure. I could have surfed this morning, but the reports were rather poor and the only spots that might have been fun would have been stupid crowded. Plus it was cloudy and shitty out. I figured why not save the gas and get some sleep.

10/19/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 20
I woke up feeling a bit better this morning thanks to a night of taking it easy on the couch and decided to paddle. It was pretty tiny all the way down to the Harbor with light onshore winds. New Jetty had some mushy but fun looking bowls coming in up and down the beach. Crowd was light for that place only around 15 heads. Say my friend Gordo in the lot but he was over both the conditions and crowd. I got in and sat on the middle peak which offered some fun lefts and rights. Dane and Virs paddled out but kept to the jetty peak. It was far from something the write home about but was definitely glad I surfed.

10/18/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I woke up and was feeling like hell. I have been fighting off a cold and I guess I must have over did it with all the froth the last few days. I had work at 11:30 and did not want to expend the little energy I had in me on a futile attempt at surfing. I was dragging at work the entire day. Hopefully I will feel better tomorrow. I heard Ventura Harbor was offshore and fun.

10/17/12 PM Session: 3-4ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Well I dropped everything and raced down to the shores thanks to my boy Ryan claiming it was firing. When the shores are firing this means barrels and lots of them. What I got down to was glassy rip-able though inconsistent A-frames with a very light crowd. Although fun not really what I was hopping for. Nevertheless I did manage to stick a huge three foot long fs gap air and had some really good hacks. It was a most splendid sunset over the islands and just one of those nights that made one feel great to be alive.

10/17/12 AM Session: 2-4ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
What started out as an average over crowded high tide session at Emma turned into a full on froth fest for me. My boy Pat met me up in order to buy my 5’11 Simon off me. Its a great board and did me well. It was my second most profitable board in contest winnings I ever owned. Now its time with me has past and I could keep it around for nostalgia but I need money so bye bye. Of course I forgot the board at home showing up at Emma all empty handed. To make up for my absentmindedness I decided to throw in one of my 4/3’s to sweeten the deal. Plus the poor guy is wearing Swiss cheese at the moment and the suit is just collecting dust in my closet anyhow. We paddled and it was glassy, fun and the crowd died off after the first hour. Then I kept getting these sick little tubes and stuck a really gnarly backside air all tweaked. There must have been a total of 9 cameras on the beach through out the entire session. Ridiculous, but I guess if a pro catches a wave and it was not on film it must not have happened. Good times either way.

10/16/12 PM Session: 2-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs 15mins
Waves surfed: 17
Its officially point break season and that means its all about quality, not quantity. Besides I may have only caught 17 waves but I probably did about 50 turns. This was opening day for me although not for Rincon. It was pretty flawless with a light crowd of just around 100. Amazing session. Read “Thank you Rincon” blog for more on the sess.

10/16/12 AM Session: 2-4ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Talk about a run of surf at Emma Wood. Dane must still be kicking it in Europe cause I have not seen the guy out all week. I had a horrible night last night health wise. I sort of felt the beginnings of a cold coming on from Saturday. Towards the end of my work day I really began to feel worn down. Then I had the usual restless night of sick sleep where you keep on waking up every hour or so very uncomfortable. I had tons of gnarly dreams though. Finally I dragged myself out of bed around 8:45 to meet my boy Ryan at Emma. When I got there the waves were definitely decent though still a bit on the inconsistent side. It was a pro show with Denis McKay and a few other of the hot groms and small time guys and their camera crews. I sort of waited them out on the cliff while stretching and eating my banana. Then I slipped in right a shift change and had a solid hour or so before the next wave of rippers showed up. Stuck two really nice ally-oops and on frontside barrel I was stoked on. Ran over some dude paddling back out whom I did not see and should have known better anyway then to paddle right for an oncoming section. We had some words and it almost went to blows, but I took a deep breath, calmed down, apologized and paddled away.

10/15/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in the Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 25
What an odd night at the Wild Cat last night. Nothing was popping off for my straight friends including myself and my gay friends. I talked to a few woman but nothing really sparked. Then some drunk bitch spilled her drink all over my designer pants. I made a face at her and she made some snide comment. I told her “how would you like it if I pour my entire drink all over your cheap imitation target dress. Since my pants is worth more then your whole outfit” She stomped off after that. I ended up just going home early. I woke up and felt the beginnings of a cold coming on. I went for a surf anyway cause the only way to beat sickness is to surf through it. Tide was high and wind was already on it so I went straight to Emma. It was a bit more crowded then I would have liked but there were a lot peaks working and some decent sets. Adam Virs was out and so were the McKay brothers. I had a few fun ones then I hit my head really hard on the bottom trying to charge through a shore pound tube that reminded me just easily it would have been to seriously get injured. I had a few more after that before the wind got harder and the tide began to drain.

10/14/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Another Emma morning or more of the same. Small inconsistent peaks with a bit more wind then the previous few days was on offer. Crowd started out light and then filled in toward the end of the session. I had a few good ones and managed a little fs shack. Worth a surf that was for sure.

10/13/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 21
More over crowding at New Jetty and yet another contest at C Street lead me back to Emma Wood for a quickie. I originally was not even going to surf today. After my third straight night in a row at the Cat I was feeling pretty exhausted this morning. I had a head ache and was a bit congested not allowing me to get back to sleep after I fed Alfie. The was absolutely gorgeous out yet again thus I decided to go for a surf. Emma only had six guys out when I paddled out, four of which were spongers whom must have gotten lost on their way to Hueneme or Mugu. I finagled one sick frontside barrel on the wave of the day and managed a really sick huge tail whip type reo thing. Then it got crazy crowded for how inconsistent the waves were and the tide got a bit drained. My boy Garrett paddled out and I had not seen him in a while. I really need to make more of an effort to see friends. Its gotten to the point that if they stop calling me then I stop seeing them. I need to be more social outside of the Wild Cat.

10/12/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 33
I had a later then usual start this morning after a fun night of mild party at the Wild Cat with my boy Tim. I heard the harbor was crowded and a bit walled and there were two contests at C-street. A stand up paddle contest and a kayak event! Are you serious how absurd is that? I cruised sea cliffs and ended up at Emma Wood. At first it looked kind of meager, but it was not like I had any other option. Turn out there were some really fun albeit inconsistent sets. The conditions were perfect. It was a splendid sunny day with visibility as far as the eyes could see. I could see the islands with crystal clear opaqueness. The water as Carrribean blue and it was so glassy that not a drop of water was out of place. I ended up with a few tiny shacks, stuck a really nice ally-oop and was just surfing pretty decent over all. What fun morning to make up for the terrible session I had yesterday courtesy of the crowd.

10/11/12 AM Session: 2-4ft, Cstreet
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 10
What a strange swell. It was flat every place North of C Street. Big and walled in the Harbor and then small everywhere south of Ventura Harbor. After an exhausting car search I found myself at the point with 100 of my closest friends and very inconsistent sets. If the crowd was about half it might have been really fun. That being said I managed to get one good right. Should have just taken my chances at walled out New Jetty.

10/10/12 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves surfed: 31
There was some small long period south on the buoys and some really steep long period NW. All that led to very small but perfectly clean conditions at the River Mouth. If it were four feet bigger it would have been classic River Mouth. I managed to find a few barrels in the offshore conditions. I stuck a huge ally-oop and got like a 50 yard GI Joe tube on my last wave when the wind had picked up. My boy Pat and his friend Bryan showed up about an hour or so after I originally called them, blowing it. If some says its offshore in Ventura you head there at that moment cause there is no telling how long that will last especially at 9 in the morning. Looks like some NW for the next few days.

10/9/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 26
Today I regrouped as it is after all the first day of “The Fall of My Malcontent”. That’s not entirely true technically “The Fall of My Malcontent started on September 22nd, but whose counting? Got a text early telling me buoys were small and not to bother. The thing is its California and that means you can almost always find a chest high wave someplace. I decided to shine the naysayers since they have not done me any good the past few days and just drive. It was small but there was some NW windswell creeping in with a small south to break thinks up. New Jetty has an alright wave though a bit busy for what was there. The wind was offshore and I saw some peaky corners down by the River Mouth and figured why the heck not. No one was out and it looked a bit like Hatteras on an average but fun fall day. Conditions were with out a doubt tricky, but I managed to find a few tubes and some open faces. I rode my rooster board to change things up a bit. That board still never fails to amaze me with how good it rides.

10/8/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Gay prom was a success if you consider getting hit on by the majority of the gays there. I was disappointed, a lot of the straight women who usually come out passed on the event completely. Would have been nice to see them all dressed up. I looked great as always and drank too much as always. Woke kind of hung over and bummed out. Had no motivation to surf at all and heard it was not so good anyway. I am going to force myself to surf tomorrow.

10/7/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I actually got up ready to surf this morning when I got a two phone calls from friends telling me to save my gas. At the moment my economic situation is not so good thus I need to save any penny I get. I went back to sleep. Its Gay Prom at the Wild Cat tonight, Im going all out. Odds of me waking to surf in the am 35%.

10/6/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Another night of party. I was doing really good keeping things light at the bar. It was an alright night, lot of my friends were out and it was crowded. I had two almost swoops but then got goal tended in both occasions. Oh and I forgot kitchen basketball is back with a vengeance this year. The new recruits are hungry. Its going to be a good season. After the cat I came home and drank an entire bottle of wine with a friend of mine. Needless to say I opted to sleep rather then surf. From what I heard I did not miss much anyway. I think I am going to have to change the name of this site to “drinkingruinedmylife” soon. I guess that is a common problem.

10/5/12 No Surfing: 3-4ft
I blew it. I went out to the Wild Cat last night with my boy Tim and got fucking hammered. Ryan called me at 8am said I needed to get down to the Harbor, but I just could not get out of bed. Fucking lame I know. I really need to get a handle on my life…

10/4/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 22
I woke up earlier then usual and cruised to the Jetty for a surf. It was smaller then I would have liked but I saw a few fun ones. Once out there I found a some nuggets among the meager offerings. Crowd was light and conditions were glassy although a bit on the inconsistent side of things.

10/3/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
My phone rang at around 8am. It was my boy Ryan telling me to not even bother. Figures I miss the swell in NJ by a week and then miss the swell in Cali as well. Whatever, Ryan hates small waves and just got off like an eight day run of good waves. I figured there had to be something. I checked Emma, but that was pathetic. I noticed some south coming through so I went to the Harbor. New Jetty had a few decent waves with a light crowd and clean conditions. It was a bit inconsistent but rip-able. I ended up getting some fun ones for sure. It was still better then the best day that I surfed in New Jersey.

10/2/12 No Surfing: 3-4ft
Finally my trip east had ended. It was a day spent on planes and in airports. I could not get the kiosk to work and needed help from a female attendant. I made some joke about the uselessness of a human being I am. She laughed, I made a few more jokes. Next thing you know I am getting escorted by her through the employee security check so I would not have to wait on line with the rest of the travelers. Let me tell you that is the way to go. No line, put my bags on the x-ray machine. Everyone was super nice. Got from the ticket counter through security in 5 minutes. I got into the Barb around 8:30pm, my friend Chantelle picked me up. Alfie was still alive thanks to my boy Tim and his girl. Minus the $35 balance left in my checking account I would say all was well.

10/1/12 No Surfing: 3-4ft
New Jersey was looking rather pathetic as I stared out onto a barely knee high at best Atlantic Ocean. Meanwhile on the west coast things were still cooking. I decided to spend the day with my family. We went apple picking, my dad and I shot a very good round of golf and then I cooked up a scrumptious dinner of Chicken Cutlets in a Bechmel sauce with a Butternut Squash Risotto. Later that night I went on a drunken bike ride with Nick the Kook and friends to Asbury. Good times.