Surfing Ruined My Life

July Surfing Sessions 2014

7-31-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Holy fuck I got wasted last night at the Wild Cat.  It was opening night of Fiesta and I went mother fucking ham.  It started with tequila shots then I moved onto a bottle of rum at the club, finally capping it off with three shots of Fire Ball.  Whooot!.  What followed was a drunken rampage down Shoreline and a black out like no other.  I was sick till like 2.  After which I decided to go for a surf with the hopes that when I hit the water I would be revived.  Instead the choppy sun glared water made me feel even worse.  I was hurting out there.   A few local groms were out besides themselves on my poor performance. I looked at them and said ALCOHOL CANT LIVE WITH OUT IT, NO DOUBT ABOUT IT.  Then I vomited all over the the place caught the next wave that came to me and stuck an air reverse.  Whoooot!!! Fiesta, yeah!

7-30-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
After work I really really wanted to get in the water.  Lindsay texted me that Sands had a wave, which meant some wind swell was showing. I was not about to go to Sands.  Instead I made a mad dash to Emma Wood for the last hour of light.  Sure enough there were a few nuggets coming in. Trevor and a handful of other guys were out on the Life Guard tower peak.  There were some coming in between Toll Both and the Over Head.  My back was still hurting a bit, but it felt great to be back in the water.  I had a few fun ones.  The evening glass was nice and the sunset spectacular.  I would say it was a win all around.

7-29-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Another day of flatness.  This is starting to become ridiculous.  Two terrible late summers in a row.  I woke up this morning and despite the fact that my back hurt wanted to get wet.  Things looked terrible so I decided to stay in bed and try and grab a few in the last hour of light after work.  More south swell was suppose to fill in.  It didn’t so rather then blow ten bucks on gas to go surf trash I came home and worked in my garden a bit.  My co-worker and friend Patrick came along to crash on the couch cause his car didn’t start.  He is from Santa Maria so it would be a real chore for him to get home and back to fix his car in the morning.  I was glad to oblige.  Work was dumb as usual.  Dolores one of my fellow workers claims I am a bit more stoic then she has ever seen me.  I don’t know.  I think it is just because I have a lot on my mind.  I revisited “The Fountain Head” by Ayn Rynd recently and have been deep in thought on that as well.

7-28-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I don’t really know if I believe the whole 2-3 ft thing though that is what Surfline was billing C-street this afternoon.  It was pretty darn flat out there this morning from the cam.  Not that it matter any.  My back was fucking killing me when I woke up as well as ruining my nights sleep.  Over it I stayed in bed.  Work sucked. Work sucks on a regular basis, but it sucks even more when your not feeling great.  My boss got in my face about bull shit as usual.  This resulted in the typical pissing match we always have about once a week.  I always win because my argument is backed by logic and reason and his pure stupidity.  Then the general manager always steps in with his usual bs rhetoric.  Nothing changes and things stay the same till the next fight and we repeat and repeat.  The only difference between me and my predecessors is I don’t care enough about my personal dignity to quit.  On the contrary I will stay if not for any other reason then out of spite thus in the end keeping my dignity in tact anyway.  YOU DON’T FUCK WITH ME!!  After work I went down to Mesa Lane.  I knew it was most likely flat, but I thought I would have a look anyway.  There is always something about staring at the sea that allows me to get lost in myself even if only for a moment.  I have never understood what it is about the ocean that has captivated me.  Maybe it is the idea of escape.  If I could get into a boat and just sail off into the oblivion till I wind up some place else.  Sometimes I stare out across the pacific and think about how New Zealand is on the other side somewhere…some deep thoughts.

7-27-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I forget the fact that I am not 22 anymore and that there are at times serious bodily consequences from surfing with a reckless abundance.  I think the late night of ruckus I had Friday night at the Wild Cat with Mike, Bizarro and the rest of the characters probably didn’t help either.  Nor has all the hours I have spent at Westmont in the past week being hunched over the grill.  Maybe it was a touch of karma as well for bailing on the catering gig.  Whatever the case, when I got up this morning my neck hurt so bad I could hardly lift it off the pillow.  My lower back was so tweaked even walking was agony.  Today became an Ibuprofen day, 9 200mg caplets worth.  The surf sucked anyway.  Work sucked even more since I was hurting all day.  Hopefully I feel a bit better tomorrow since I am back on the grill.

7-26-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 56
I was suppose to work a wedding in Solvang.  Then I found out that my boy was completely under cutting me on pay, while paying other guys almost double my take for the same work load .  Initially I was going to work it to be a good guy and all.  When I woke up in the morning I was over it, made some bs excuse and instead went to Jalama.  Oh well.  It was a nice leisurely day. My girl and I went to breakfast at the Mesa Cafe came home and began making out way up to the “J”.  The buoy had a small amount of windswell kicking around on it and some minor south.  I was not expecting much, but the winds were perfect and it was the best bet.  We got there and it was dead low.  With the drained out tide and long period swell the conditions affront me were a bit discouraging to say the least.  I figured I would just take my time and as the tide changed something would come.  When we got to Cracks there were about six guys out.  I chilled on the beach for about thirty taking stock.  I noticed the sets began to get a bit more consistent and the tide push was starting. It was go time.  I paddled and it got fun as fuck.  Nothing huge, chest plus, but as rip-able as waves get.  I went to town.  Maybe it was all the build up frustration from the hard grovel the previous few session, but I was in a class of my own throwing huge airs, crazy rotations and sticking some nasty ass shit.  It was one of the best sessions I have surfed performance wise in a month.  As the surf was winding down I looked back at the beach and saw a coyote run past my girl.  Jalama is a pretty wild place and seeing all sorts of wild life there is no stretch, though I have never seen a coyote on the beach before.  It was just strolling by.  Maybe it was hunting for seagulls or something.  I didn’t try and eat Her so I suppose that was a good thing.  After the surf we enjoyed a late supper at Brophy’s in Santa Barbara Harbor.  Like I said it was a splendid day. If your going to play hooky then you might as well do it in style.

7-25-14 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I slept in this morning a little bit as things were looking pretty small down south again.  Ryan was my last saving grace at a trip south.  He was not even motivated enough to go check the Harbor and it is literally a five minute drive from his house.  I looked at the C-street cam and it was deplorable again.  I checked the Lane.  Killian’s dad was on it getting a few on his log.  It looked grovel-able.  Rather then drive to Emma and grovel there I paddled.  It was small and terrible, but I found a few.  Its always nice to get the board moving.  It was a nice morning with no crowd.  Now for ding repair the rest of the day.

7-24-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
After another busy day on the grill having burger time, which was capped out by becoming a white Mexican cleaning the hoods and the entire grill area, plus sweeping and mopping all the walk-ins I thought I would give the Lane a look.   By the way I just want to mention I can’t think of too many kitchens that expect their sous chef to do such cleaning projects.  Especially one the size of mine.  Its fucking an absurdity.  I got to the lane and it was a bit better then last night though three times as crowded. I almost bailed on it due to the crowd, but used the logic that I had to take a shower anyway so I might as well get wet. I saw Killian leaving as I was walking down the steps and he said it was pretty terrible.  I found a few but ultimately did not really do the surf justice.  At least it was a nice sunset and the crowd dropped off a bit toward dusk.

7-24-14 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
After last nights session at the Lane and the morning buoy readings I thought how could I loose at Emma Wood.  When I pulled into the dirt lot on top of the bluff I had lost.  It was barely waist high and Florida gutless wind swell crap.  I looked at it, kicked some dirt around and then suited up and groveled it though I was hard pressed to get even the slightest bit stoked.  Yes it was as bad as it looked.  I got a few, but it was far from worth pushing the envelope on being late to work for.  I suppose it beat not surfing, but then again I could have got like two hours more sleep.  As I was about to leave Killian showed up with a bus load of groms for some local surf camp.  One of them recognized me from this blog.  He had to be like 11.  I don’t really know how I feel about such a young audience being subjected to what I write here.  Then again I should not be held responsible for any life changing effects this bull shit I write may have upon the course of his life.  What ever the kid looked pretty fucking stupid to me anyway.  I am surprised he was even able ti read.

7-23-14 PM Session: 1-2 ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
I was not expecting to surf tonight at all.  Though when I got out of work I could just smell that surf was in the air.  I decided give the Lane a look after I got out of work at 7.  Sure enough there was a knee to waist high shore breaky sort of wave thing coming in.  There were also thirty heads on it.  Disgusted I drove home over it.  Then I thought that with it almost getting dark I could probably sneak in for the last bit of light as the crowd dwindled.  I grabbed my suit and board and ran down the stairs.  Sure enough when I got to the bottom there were only about five people on.  It was wind swell thus plenty of shore break for everyone.  My uncanny ability to make gold out of the worst surfing conditions ever prevailed and I managed to get a few alright rides.  I even stuck a bs air reverse.  It was hot and corn dog day at work today.  I decided to put up line dividers on my section today to keep more conformity and flow.  Dinner was, you guessed it hamburgers and chicken off the grill.  FML…At least I got wet.

7-22-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I guess bad summer surf finally showed up.  It has been a good run so I really shouldn’t complain, yet I will anyway. Foooey!  Work sucked.  I literally got fucking throw into the trenches while taking heavy artillery on the grill. By noon I found myself over 200 burgers in with a line of over 200 screaming kids of every nationality.  At one point I was getting shouted at in over seven different languages.  It was a fucking free for all.  Then my chef came out and started shit with me on why I could not keep up.  Are fucking kidding me.  I am one man both serving and cooking for over 500 customers.   In and Out doesn’t that kind of volume and they have like 8 guys working back there.  I unfortunately lost my cool and blew up nearly kicking his ass.  Luckily my general manager showed up and got between us before I took chef’s stupid head and slammed it down onto the flaming grill.  When all was said and down I had cooked 480 burgers in a matter of 2 hrs.  Oh and another 70 chicken sandwiches as well.  After that I got to cook dinner.  I am a fucking animal.

7-21-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More flatness kept me out of the water again.  Harvest was reading like 3 ft or something like that.  You would have been hard pressed to find a decent wave anywhere in southern California today.  I had work at 11am where my boss threw me under a bus by making me work the grill for lunch.  I thought I was just coming in to work dinner.  We were feeding 600 heads and 500 of those were kids under 16 and out of that group 250 were kinds under 12.  Given the choice between Mexican food, Pizza or cheese burgers, who do you think is going to take the sack?  Yeah me flipping burgers.  I grilled and served over 250 cheese burgers in about two hours all by myself.  My arm caught on fire at one point when some burger grease dripped on to it.  Luckily for me I got it out before it all burned up.  Then after I cleaned up my station I got to go and cook dinner for the evening for 3oo. Good times.

7-20-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I had to work at 11am at Westmont.  Looks like I am finally getting back my old shifts.  I looked at the cam for C-street and it was deplorable with about 40 guys on it.  Over it I rolled over and went back to sleep.  Work was alright till I accidentally grabbed a knife blade and sliced the top of my finger open cause some one left in on the table under my knife bag.   I got lucky though, my fingernail managed to keep my finger for peeling in half.  I bleed everywhere till I was able to get it to clot.  Trevor went up to Jalama and got some fun ones at T’s.

7-19-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 46
My girl and I loaded up the car for an afternoon Jalama run.  I knew the crowds were going to suck early and that the winds were going to stay down.  Afternoon was the call.  We got there around 4pm and sure enough the crowd was down to about 5 guys at Cracks.  The surf had come down a bit and the tide was very high when I first got there.  It was still super slow and lully just as it has been for this entire swell.  After the first half hour the tide began to drop and the sets began to stack in.  It was just me and the guy who works the gate out there trading fun though backwashy and racy lefts.  I was in a big air mood just going for broke with huge ally-oops and air reverses.  I even stuck a few.  It started to rain forcing my lady to make a b-line for the car.  I stayed out for another hour or so destroying the nice clean peaks.  If it were barreling it could have been all time.  Then it was back to the Barb for a night of madness at the Wild Cat for their Black and White party.  I was hoping it would be off the chain, but it turned out to be less then stellar.  Oh well, I still got drunk so mission accomplished.

7-18-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
I had to go work for Trevor around noon.  My plan was to get up early and cruise to Jalama.  I over slept a bit.  When I checked Ventura it looked small a shitty again.  I looked at Jalama and it was still solid.  I knew I was pushing envelope, but I went for it anyway.  “Yo bud I decided to make a Jalama run, prob be in around 1ish”.  Off I went.  I got there and it was crowded.  Unfortunately Cracks is the only peak at the moment of any real value.  Basically it is like 30-50 guys crowded into a Lowers like line up.  The only upside is that Cracks is a tad shiftier meaning a little local knowledge goes a long way.  Still I was over the crowd and pressed for time.  I was going to run to Pyramids when I saw a sick four wave overhead set roll through Tarantellas and the waves went from the reef all the way to the beach.  There were only three guys on it.  I paddled out there and two of the guys dominating it were Hammonds regulars.  At first they were being super protective of the peak.  I respectively took their scraps for a little.  Soon on of them looked at me and said “you surf Santa Barbara all the time”.  From there we started talking and it was all good.  Too bad it was a little weak out there.   You could like 9 turns on a good one, but the majority of those were cut backs and we all know how much I love to do that.  I drifted my way towards Cracks.  The crowd had died down to around 25 or so.  I figured I could finagle a few gems then call it a day.  What I didn’t realize till I got there was that the line up was 80% populated by SB guys and the crew that was around my age bracket.  On the whole these guys and I don’t get along because I was not born here.  I got blocked and heckled.  Some dude and I collided in a game of chicken.  Finally I snagged a set wave left that was a bit racy with the onshore wind, did an average turn and called it day.  When I got out of the water it was 12:30 meaning I was going to be at least an hour later then I had expected.  Moral of the story: if you own a business and hire surfers don’t count on them being on time if a swell is running.

7-17-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
More bad waves on another meager south swell further enforced the reasons I have been driving and walking up north all summer long.  What a let down.  I was not expected too much out of the place, but the least I was hoping it would be rip-able.  Instead it was very inconsistent, weak, mushy walls off the jetty with a stiff crowd and close outs in the middle.  I got a few terrible ones off the Jetty before fucking around on the inside.  I should have just knocked out all of my teeth in the parking lot with my tire iron.  I think it would have been more stimulating that that terrible surf was.

7-16-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
I woke up from my beach nap and sure enough Ryan was still out there in the water.  It had been easily a five hour session for him.  The guy is totally bogged down with a wife, two kids and a job thus he doesn’t get too many full days to just surf.  Shit I have been scoring Jalama all summer and was over it and ready to leave.  Rather then sit around on the beach and cook I suited up and paddled back out at inside T’s since Cracks now had a new crowd of guys on it.  With the tide getting lower and more swell filling in Tarantellas was getting much better.   I found a couple sick ones right off the bat and even landed a huge ally-oop.  Ryan paddled over and we enjoyed a few more.  Since he was finally over it I opted to only do a twenty and call it.  I was fucking exhausted.  Unfortunately the zippers on my board bag broke when I was packed up for the walk back to the car park.  Besides that I would say it was a splendid day of surfing.  No photo cause I didn’t bother to take an avro picture.  Rest assure it was pretty similar to the morning shot I took from the cliffs.

7-16-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 43
Talk about long period swell.  Jalama was as inconsistent as it gets out there this morning.  Ryan and I ran up for the mid-morning tide push with a rising swell expecting things to be cooking.  Turns out there were some amazing sets, but they were easily twenty minutes to a half hour apart, shifty and unpredictable.  Throw in a crowd of like 30 guys with Cracks being the only spot that the swell was really focusing on and it was a bit on the annoying side.  I actually started out surfing the right at Tarantella’s where there was a decent enough 3-5 turn wall coming in on the reef till the tide got too high.  Then I spent an hour or so catching some fun bowls off of the inside Tarantella lefts.   Finally as the crowd began to leave for lunch I paddled over to the Crack to get some real waves.  That was where I found the barrel.  My last wave of that session I managed to get a double barrel on a solid overhead bomb.  When I got out of the water some old dude gave me a pound and said it was the best wave he saw caught all morning,  Ryan opted to stay out.  I went and had a nap on the beach.

7-15-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
Another Jalama day went down this afternoon.  I reached out to all my sources down south and all came back with either “I was just about to ask you how it was” or “flat, don’t bother”.  Pat hit me up earlier in the day that he might end up at the “J” for an afternoon session.  I hit him up to find out if he was still going and he was.  I figured I would just find him at Cracks.  I got up there and I guess I must have just missed him or he surfed one of the other spots.  I saw some one surfing the reef just past the camp ground River Mouth that may have been Pat.  It was a regular foot who was surfing well.  Cracks looked decent from the cliff and that was where I was headed.  Things were pretty drained with the dropping tide, but conditions were glassy, almost too glassy at times and there were some waist to head high waves pushing in with the usual overhead sneaker.  I started at Tarantellas then paddled to Cracks where it was a bit too walled though I did manage a deep ass bs tube I came out of.  Finally I went back to T’s where I found the best wave I have caught in a week.  Trevor had just paddled out and this overhead wave came in and feathered on the outside reef allowing me a roll in to a chill little backside shack.  Then I came out and smashed to top to bottom hits before ending it with an inverted indy grab air.  Unfortunately I peaked too early and found myself scrounging for good ones toward the end of my surf.  The dreaded Jalama low tide lulls didn’t help either.  It literally took me a half hour to get my last one in. Still a pretty darn fun day of surfing all things considered.

7-14-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 48
I actually was once again exhausted today and had only planned on going for a grovel somewhere in Ventura.  Trevor hit me up and wanted to d Jalama.  I can’t ever say no to a Jalama run.  Off we went in search of sickness.  Once again we were greeted with glassy chest to head plus conditions with a few guys out on Cracks.  The whole scene had a weird ominous feel to it with the left over weather from a passing tropical storm.  It was cloudy and humid with a light drizzle on occasion.   Felt a tad like Jersey.  Cracks was the best peak and we paddled it though a bit on the racy and closed out side.  I think that last big south swell finally put an end to the great sand I have been enjoying up there the past two months.  Still there were a few corners and the occasional barrel.  It took me some time to build up my momentum though soon enough I began throwing down an large gambit  of airs.  I even managed to make a deep fs tube towards the end of the night.  I guess it was an alright surf after all.  Trevor and I capped our surf off with our ritualistic late supper at the Goleta Dennys.  Who could ask for anything more?

7-13-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr, 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Saturday I had promised my girl I would spend the day with her.  As of late between my hectic work, regularly hectic surf schedule and other reasons we have not been spending that much quality time together.  I feel it is necessary at this precarious point in our relationship for me to make more of an effort to spend time with her if I am to make an objective decision on us.   I took her up the Purisma Mission in Lompoc.   It’s a pretty sick little spot that is far from a tourist trap like many of the attractions in the Valley.  It is basically a historical restoration mission where they have recreated what mission life was like in the height of that time period in California history.  Not to mention they have farm animals you can feed if you bring your own food.  I love petting and feeding farm animals.  We had a good time.  Afterward we cruised to Jalama since we were right there and both of us enjoy going.  I knew there was some windswell running and had a feeling the wind was going to die off toward the end of the day.  Sure enough I was right.  The tide was a bit low and a bit too wind swelly making for mostly walled conditions at the Crack peaks.  Truthfully I should have just paddled out at the River Mouth by the Camp Ground.  There was a decent peak coming in there.  We ended up walking down to Pyramids where there was totally an alright peak coming in on the reef though a bit on the washy side when big sets would roll through.  I was completely worn out from the previous day’s catering job and it took a toll on me in the water.  I had a few sick ones and made the first real tube I have ever made on that reef.  Then I got caught inside for nearly twenty minutes as a 15 wave bomb set unloaded and turned the entire inside reef into a river causing me to us all my efforts to paddle in place.  I was out there all by myself and began getting freaked out by every thing around me, seals, bait fish, etc.  I grabbed a few more and called it a day.  I was so tired on the walk back I barely made it to the car.

7-12-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I guess summertime flatness has started to rear its ugly head out here.  None the less it has been nice to have a little break from the surf grid.  Last night Calvin and I joined Bizarro at the Wild Cat for a fancytown night.  There was some fat girl fashion show going on.  I can’t remember the last time I have seen that much cellulose on display.  I almost vomited twice, by the end of the night Calvin found himself doing just that.  Only at the Wild Cat of course.  I got hammered, Bizarro swooped, my girl and I got into a tiff when I came home and Calvin spend the night hugging the toilet.  I don’t remember any of this since it was in my black out, but as usual pieced together the night from word of mouth.  I spent the day in bed till I had to go work a wedding for Trevor up in Montecito.  The even was at the 25+ million dollar estate.  As usual it was nothing but headache for Calvin and I courtesy of the lack of organization.  I don’t know how so many sub par operations manage to stay a afloat here in California.  I suppose its because the standard is so low.  At the end of the night we got to got to hike all of our gear, hot boxes, and equipment down a steep hill over uneven pavement for easily 800 yards.  It took about ten trips leaving us completely exhausted and totally not worth the minimal amount we are getting paid.  Not that I have seen a pay check yet.   Apparently my check is missing in action.  At the moment all I have gotten for my efforts with this company is a combined total of $60 in tips.  Fuck my bar tab at the Wild was way more then that last night.

7-11-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Today was the first legit down day I have seen in nearly two months.  I probably could have found some junky wind blown peaks at Jalama or some left overs at Malibu.  Fuck that I was over it.  After five days of average sessions from this south swell that had me pretty much in the wrong place at the wrong time the entire swell.  Fuck working.  If I were off like usual summers I would have scored it some where.  178 is a shitty angle, pretty much as steep as it gets.  Jalama was walled for most of it, Ventura was windy and walled, Malibu shinned but was crowded as usual.  today I gave myself a well deserved afternoon off before I game up to charge the Wild Cat tonight.  Shit I have put in solid charge this summer anyhow.  Looks like there will be some solid Jalama action starting up Monday again so stay tuned for that fun.  At work chef tried to push me as hard as ever to lose it and freak out.  I held my cool and just smiled as he stupidly ruined an entire lunch.

7-10-14 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
Well I overslept cause I was tired as all fuck. I woke up at 8 completely unmotivated and still tired.  I rolled over and went back to sleep.  At nine I finally got my ass out of bed.  Calvin hit me up letting me know I could have the day off today. Stoked I was going to maybe go to Jalama, then on second thought I got lazy and just cruised to the Harbor since Ryan said it was chest high there.  It was more like waist high and terrible. It looked like South Jetty had few fun ones, but it was crowded with surf camp kids and I was not about to take part in that crap.  Finally I found myself staring at small, terrible Emma Wood.  I almost bailed to Malibu when I noticed the other dude out was Dane Reynolds so I figured it he was out there it must not be worth going any place else.  Then I remembered that Dane loves shitty Emma.  Whatever, I grovel with the best of them.  I went home looking forward to an afternoon of masturbation only to find out that I had to work  since Trevor underestimated the amount of work that needed to be done.  I came in and saved the day…”I saved the day Betty, I saved day. Apparently they don’t like heroes here”.

7-9-14 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves surfed: 28
Don’t ask me how I ended up in Solimar again this morning.  Well, it sort of went like this.  I was really hoping to get some marginal to fun Ventura Harbor, but the onshore wind decided to blow at like 6am this morning.  Add some shit sand at New Jetty and there was not much on offer.  I ran into my old friend Brook-o and Big Bobby B while checking it for a little blast from the past.  It was good to see Brook after he had moved to Hawaii for a few years.  Same shit different year in the 805, the place where life stands still.  I don’t think anyone around here would  want it any other way.  Myself included.  We checked Emma and that sucked too. There were about a dozen groms who are all good surfers in their own right struggling to get even a turn in on the chopped up close outs.  I thought about running down to Malibu for a hot minute and that was probably the best call.  Brook-o and crew rolled to C Street, but I hate that wave.  I went to Solimar hoping the reef would still have an organized right despite the wind.  It certainly did, though rather small and inconsistent.  No one was out and I was tired of looking around.  In hindsight New Jetty was most likely the best call for Ventura.  I should have went to Malibu, but the real call was JALAMA!  I found a few cause my ability to surf sub par waves is unparalleled.  Beat not surfing I guess.

7-8-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 48
Is summer over yet cause I am certainly over it.  Another bad afternoon for surfing  took place as a result of a closed out steep south swell in hard onshore winds with a six and a half foot high tide.  I met up with Mike at Emma and we cruised to Solimar, which pretty much was the best of the worst.  No one was out when we got there and I saw a few nuggets on the reef thus we decided to paddle.  Of course as luck would have it six other guys thought the same thing.  Then that six became twelve, that twelve, twenty and then for me it was time to leave.  Every aspect that makes surfing a shitty sport to participate in was in play.  WHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!  I need to go back to Jalama.  Despite the shit I was dealt I managed to surf rather well.  Mike bought my Jessica Rabbit board off me and he seemed to do ok on it.  After the surf we enjoyed burritos in Mexico Ventura before calling it a night.

7-7-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hobsons
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
After yesterday’s less then stellar Jalama surf and seeing similar conditions there again today I decided to try my luck south.   Unfortunately the wind had turned hard onshore and crowds were out in mass.  I drove around for about an hour staring at close outs, bad wind and crowds.  Hobsons was actually one of the first places I checked and although far from what I would call good it had the most manageable wave I had found.  I paddled over searching and although fat and back washy with the tide I found a few nuggets.  Crowd stayed light cause lets face it no one ever expects Hobsons on a south swell or high tide for that matter.  Getting out of the water was the most exciting part of the session since I had to aim for the stair case, which is in front of a gnarly break wall with about a a three foot area of shallow sharp rocks in front of it.  Some how I made it in unscathed, though just barely.  I hater south swells, why can’t it be winter already?

7-6-14 PM Session: 5-7+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr, 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 28
I was fucking exhausted this morning and the entire day for that matter.  This crazy go go go life style I am living at the moment just doesn’t suit me.  Though the paper keeps stacking higher and the surf just keeps coming.  What a summer of gnar.  My girl and I went up to Jalama since she was sort of feeling down about the fact that we don’t do anything together any more.  Truthfully I barely have time to even do what I do let alone make time or want to make time to do things with her.  Taking her along for a  surf seemed to make the most sense to me.  Yes I am an asshole if you were still wondering.   We got there and although windy the south was pulsing.  Sets were solid in the over head to double overhead range.  Unfortunately the lines were very long making it a bit walled and they were all broken up, peaky and sectiony.  There were some sick barrels, but few and far between were more then just huge hail Mary shacks.  The crowded was centered around T Cracks and spilling over to Cracks.   All those peaks seemed not very appealing to me as I watched the carnage ensue.  I counted three broken boards before I even got to Cracks.  On the way I ran into tons of Barb guys.  I had a look around to corner to see if Weed Reef was happening.  It wasn’t.  I thought about moseying over to Pyramids.  Ultimately I surfed the inside of Tarantellas with some old guy where I found although a tad less hollow it was a bit more make-able.  I still managed to get my ass handed to me in more then one barrel attempt gone badly.  Besides having size I would say it was a below average Jalama day for me.

7-5-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs,  15 mins
Waves Surfed: 44
Jalama has spoiled me this summer.  I just can’t get motivated to surf any place else.  Why should I sit in traffic down south, to sit in a blown out crowded line up, when I can go up north, enjoy a beautiful drive, an empty line up and way better surf. North is where its at for me these days.  Although it is beginning to take a toll on me.  I get home from work at 3:30 pm meet who ever hit me up first to get the ONE available seat in my car, load up then drive about an hour and twenty to Jalama.  I walk another twenty five minutes, surf for over two hours, then walk back 25, and drive home an hour twenty.  Its like I am on a complete second day after my work day is over.  It is becoming rather exhausting.  Then I get a good one and all the effort is worth while.  Trevor and I ended up surfing the inside of Tarantellas cause cracks had like 30 guys on it and I saw a few good bowls over there.  Turns out it was super rip-able. Trevor was stoked cause it reminded him of Emma Wood.  I was pumped since it was just us on the peak and I kept getting good waves.   It was almost too glassy out there.  The water so clear you could see everything.  Just another great day at Jalama.

7-4-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs, 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 43
My lady, Trevor and I loaded up into the car for a 4th of July Jalama session.  To be honest it was hard for me to feel patriotic for a country that after 200 years of prosperity is worse off then it was when under British rule.  Rather then waste any time on it I decided to go get barreled instead.  I have to work early in the morning all weekend thus pretty much ending any chance of party for me.  I am stacking paper though for whatever that’s worth.  We got there and there was two guys out at Cracks, a bit surprising for a holiday weekend.  Being late in the day we figured everyone had probably surfed earlier and were on their way to fire works or other miscellaneous celebration.  Things were still a bit on the wind swelly side, but new south had filled in allowing for the occasional sick left to come through.  We paddled on the south end of Cracks and though a bit closed out there were some sick rampy sections.  I hit some huge fucking airs.  Some were so high I threw them a way as to not chance a broken board or ankle.  Then the wind died, it glassed off and a half hour lull showed up.  Toward dark as the tide dropped I managed a few little tubes on this suck out sand bar that developed.  Nothing to write home about though most likely the best I was going to find.

7-3-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
Jalama has become my saving grace in life these days. Nothing gives me more peace then a session up there.  Since things have been rather hectic for me lately between working two jobs, my home situation and all the usual bs I put up with regularly I am stoked to have a place as such.  Mike met me at my apartment and we cruised.  I knew there was not going to be too much swell, but with the high tide and a possible SE swell I was optimistic.  Cracks was super disorganized with way too much wind swell.  There were a few corners but nothing to get super excited about. We decided to walk onward to Pyramids, which was still on the smaller side but cleaner then when Trevor and I surfed it the previous day.  Sets were on the inconsistent side. When a wave came in there were some really fun lefts and rights to be had.  Mike found some frustration with all the kelp.  I can’t blame him it is after all the only downside to that surf spot.  On the upside with all that kelp I reckon it would be hard for a shark to get you.  I had some really good ones leaving me stoked.  Then it was off to the Wild Cat for night of party.  It was fun to chill with all my friends a luxury I rarely get these days.  I was exhausted from the long day of work, surf and party and thus got less enjoyment out of it then I usually get.

7-2-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 39
I met up with Lindsay and her boy friend Johnny at the El Capitan exit and jumped in with them for a quick Jalama strike.  I know I complain about showing up with three or more people, but they were going anyway and so was I so technically the same amount of surfers were going to show up anyway.   We got there and conditions were clean though a bit drained and small with the dropping swell and low tide.  Incoming tide was to happen all  morning and we were all optimistic.  Cracks had some corners with a few guys out.  Lindsay and Johnny were all over it.  I paddled more over near T’s where I always surfed.  I worked all of those racy peaks and found myself a few boost-able  corners.  Still there was nothing to really get excited for.  Meanwhile I saw Johnny boost a huge fs air.  I was making my way to Cracks to join in on the fun when this head high left came right to me.  I dropped in and got shacked off my ass.  I had to go in on that one.  We had to leave soon anyway and when you to get the barrel of the day on a day with seldom decent barrels its greedy to even try to surf anymore.

7-1-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 36
With favorable winds Trevor and I made the evening jaunt to Jalama where the indicated some clean fun waves.  As we were checking Cracks from above it looked as if we were going to score.  As soon as we got there the tide had gotten way too low and the wind picked up just enough to turns things into a steaming pile of dog shit.  Rather then step in shit we decided to go for a wander around the corner at T’s and see what some other reefs offered.  Weed reef was not happening since it was small and a lack of south swell.  The right at T’s look do-able but we were far from stoked on it.  I had a look toward Redemption and saw some sets there.  I left the choice up to Trevor who decided he was in the mood for a walk and not caring and always up for an adventure I concurred.  Redemption had a solid wave, but the wind was blowing right into it killing the barrel making it nothing more then a mushy slab, which are never all that fun. Past Redemption there are a handful of reefs that all have left and right peaks off them, never anything amazing, but kill-able in their own right.  There were a couple left passes that looked more then fun.  I call that area pyramids cause it breaks in front of this pyramid obelisk thing.  The left pass we primarily rode was a chill little wall that kept a very nice pace and allowed multiple hit sections.  Certain angles even allowed for a barrel.  I bet if the wind was not side shore if there would have been  more tube opportunity.  The only down side was that the entire wave was riddled with kelp.  Not so much to make it un-ride-able but enough to be annoying.  Whatever the case it did a fine job salvaging what could have been a very terrible  surf.  I was stoked on it and will definitely go surf it again.