Surfing Ruined My Life

December 2017 Surf Sessions

12-31-17 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1 hr 
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 76
I blew it.  I should have paddled New Jetty.  Ryan had looked at it and paddled.  His report though enticing left me a bit wondrous of the crowd.  Rather then waste time, knowing the window as going to be very short with both tide and wind I proceeded straight to Shores.  There were some clean fun looking waist to chest A-frames up and down the beach.  Not wasting any time I paddled out and got a few decent ones right off the bat.  As the session wore on, the tide steadily dropped and wind slowly crept up out of the south till it was so hard that it had tattered the small surf beyond being fun.  Still I had a peak all to myself the entire surf and once again on a day I was hesitant to even go for a look I scored some fun ones.  It is always pertinent in my book the end the year on a surf.  Its New Years Eve tonight and a full moon.  Everyone be safe out there and have a blast.  I hope all of you are partying.  I for one will have my usual VIP Booth at the Wild Cat.  If you happen to be out there feel free to stop by, shake my hand and let me pour you a drink.  HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!

12-30-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 76
Couple of more days and the holiday season is over and then all of our line ups can go back to normal.  The buoys were pretty small and all reports I got were less then stellar.  The only decent line ups were packed.  I was about to bag it when I got a call from Gabe.  He was up north and claimed that there was a little south on the Santa Maria buoy.  It was enough to get me in my car to head south.  I bypassed the Harbor completely.  Ryan said he was paddling and that it was only about waist plus with twenty heads on it.  I figured I would at least have a look at the Shores.  The North side was actually pretty peaky and fun.  I was going to paddled there.  When I looked south it appeared bigger.  Since I wasn’t completely sold I figured what was another five minutes.  The South Side was a bit larger though a tad more walled.  The waves that were closing out were at least boost-able thus I paddled.  I found a fun A-frame peak all to myself and ripped that till the wind got too hard and tide got too low, both of which managed to happen almost simultaneously.  It was far from epic yet I was stoked to get a few waves on a day I had considered not even to bother.

12-29-17 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 47
Miles Driven: 78
The SE swell had just about dropped out and all that was left was the small inconsistent WNW swell, which was also on the decline.  Ryan and I had a look at Hollywood.  It was alright, a little windy and weak mushy chest plus corners up and down the beach that I just couldn’t get into.  He looked at Shores first and said that was pretty walled.  Before committing to something I was far from motivated to surf I decided to just have a quick look at Strand.  When I got to the Ship the wind had completely stopped and I was staring at waist to chest high glassy bowls from the life guard tower into the bowl with only about twenty or so guys spread out.  Stoked I jumped in and people kept leaving till I was left out there with only two other guys.  We literally each had our own peak.  Despite the small size there were a few barrels to be had.  Unfortunately the tide drained out super hard and eventually sucked all the swell out with it.  I had to wait nearly thirty minutes for my last wave, which was barely waist high.  Still I think it was a good time.  I ran some errands then had another look right before dark in the hopes the incoming would be fun.  Everything was small up to the Harbor, which was overhead, walled and windy.  There were a few and if I had not surfed I would have paddled, but it looked like a lot of work and I just couldn’t get into it.

12-28-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 34
A new west swell was showing on the buoys.  It was a bit on the small side.  With the holiday crowds, a bit of wind and poor early reports from the beaches my thoughts were to Naples.  I knew it was going to be far from epic and if it was a normal week day I would have not even bothered.  All things considered Pat, Ryan and I set out of less crowd and smaller waves.  There were some decent sets, every thirty minutes.  Really there was lots of down time.  I started at Dead Mans knowing that there was not nearly enough waves for the three of us to surf Seals.  I got a few down there before running up to the Crack Peak, which though a bit sectiony was way more consistent.  I surfed that for a bit before making my way down to Seals to join the boys.  We got a few more and called it a day.  It was by far the worst I have gotten the place this year.  That being said to have some fun waves for just you and your boys one cannot really complain.

12-27-17 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 78
With Steep NW wind swell, NW ground swell and SE swell in the water the beaches seemed like the place to be.  We were also graced by another day of light winds.  I had a look at North Shores, while Ryan did reconnaissance at The Ship.  Shores was a bit stretched with pick and choose corners.  Ryan said that Strand looked more fun so I headed over there.  Upon looking at it I decided we had better odds heading back to Shores and maybe checking over at the south end.  Strand had a waist to chest high wave, but it was very crowded and the waves were actually a little too peaky not offering up very much in the way of good sections.  Sure enough South Shores was more peaky then on the north end with just a handful of guys spread out over 500 yards of peak filled beach.  We paddled and had a ball on all the rip-able lefts and rights.  There were even a couple of barrels on the right section.  I know I was pretty sour about losing New Jetty to the masses, but it may have been a blessing in disguise that has allow me to broaden my horizons on alternative places to surf.
 12-26-17 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 77
It was the day after Christmas and that means holiday shopping deals.  My chick and I always go down to the Camarillo outlets to clean house and finalize our New Years out fits.  First business was to get a surf in.  Hollywood looked the best.  Pat and Ryan met me and we surfed a peak all to ourselves.  It was a bit inconsistent.  When sets came it was solid over head and there were plenty of fun lefts and rights with light wind.  The three of traded fun waves for the entire time.  The outlet shopping was a strike out for me.  Everything I liked was either too large or too small by one size. My lady however cleaned house and scored the best NYE dress ever.

12-25-17 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 78
I got up and did the Christmas presents thing with my girl.  Then it was off to the beach to get some waves.  There was actually some SE/WNW combo swell in the water, a Christmas first for me out here.  My girl and I started at Ventura Harbor.  It was crowded, windy and rather closed out.  Pat and Mc Gil were paddling.  Next stop was Strand, The ship was flat and the Bowl and North End were tiny.  On a last ditch effort I had a look at Hollywood.  There was a wave there. though a bit fat with the high tide.  From there I noticed waves at the south end of Shores and cruised over.  Sure enough there were fun peaks up and down the beach with a very light crowd and light wind.  The swell must have filled in a bit while I was out there cause the sets kept getting larger.  I rode my new Clark’s surf boards. Both worked well.  I am leaning towards the wider tailed one at the moment.  After the surf we headed home for Christmas dinner and cookie decorating with my girl’s mother and two sisters.  It was a most lovely evening.

12-24-17  No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More small waves left me rather unmotivated to grab a session before work.  Instead I got a Christmas Eve brunch with my girl knowing I would not be around till late in the night.  I had a Christmas party to work at a beach house in Malibu. Normally I wouldn’t take a job that encompassed not spending a holiday with my lady.  Considering the fire and the amount of money I lost as a result I needed one more decent take for the year.  This party was it.

12-23-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
The surf was super small and being a Saturday and a holiday I was not about to fight a crowd for sub par surf.  Instead I took on the task of cleaning up all of the ash around my apartment both in my garden and in front of my door.  The process was way more work and taxing on my lungs then I would have hoped.

12-22-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
Miles Driven: 78
I was surfing some where today.  The buoys still had enough steep NW swell on them to justify a trip south.  The point cam had some waves for my fish on it as a fall back.  New Jetty was fucking packed as usual.  I don’t even know why I even bother checking that spot any more.  If it was sick I would go fight the crowd.  It’s an average wave at best and today it was way below average.  There were a few heads on the River Mouth bars, but none of that was all that enticing.  On a Hail Mary I headed to Strand.   Though it was super high The Ship and subsequent bowl had a wave with a very light crowd.  Ryan met me and we paddled.  It was definitely slow going and inconsistent.  Every now and then a solid left or two would roll through.  I was on my wider tail Clark’s still feeling it out.  The board with out a doubt works.  I think the tail may just be a little too wide for my liking.  It is the best short board we have produced to date.  I got out and ran a few errands hoping to get a session on my other board before dark.  I ran into Pat at New Jetty, which was surprise, surprise still fucking crowded and now completely drained and windy.  Pat said Strand was pretty small and drained too.  I had some final Christmas shopping to do so I bagged it and handled my scandal.  For whatever reason I really wanted to use that stupid phrase in my blog.

12-21-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I was looking at a solid thirteen hour day.  Usually I am super bummed to miss surf, but with all the cancellations I took this season I was stoked to fill my pockets with a little bit of holiday cash. I heard Strand and Ventura Harbor were fun.  As far as the event goes it went down with out a hitch.

12-20-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I finally had a little bit of work leaving the morning surf out.  The afternoon winds were supposed to blow pretty hard out of the NW.  Hoping for some local wind swell I had a look at Lead Better before dark but it was super small.

12-19-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
Miles Driven: 126
I had to get a board up to SLO for one of our groms.  With two new boards to learn and minimal swell I decided a stop a Jalama was the way to go.  Unfortunately there was just enough WNW wind on it to tear it up for the size.  Sets were also a bit inconsistent and there were about eight guys on it.  I split the time, an hour on each board.  Both seemed to work, though with the shit conditions it was hard to get a true read.  One thing that is for sure then are not absolute crap.

12-18-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 78
There was still enough residual swell for Strand to have a wave.  My girl decided to come home from work early and we cruised south.  The wind was on it a little bit, but the Ship still looked fun with a very moderate crowd once again.  Stoked I paddled and turned the place into a skate park.  I frothed the first hour and boosted airs and other fun stuff.  I even able to sneak into a throaty barrel off a wide swinging set wave towards the bowl.  As the tide dropped the conditions deteriorated and became very inconsistent.  I got a few more and bailed.  After which we got some lunch, swung by my glasser and picked up my new Clark’s short boards.  They looked sick and I can’t wait to get them wet.  I think we got winners this time.  Finally my chick and I had one more stop to make at the mall for a few more gifts.  Tis the season.

12-17-17 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 78
I was suppose to work in the morning to get a Lunch out, but thanks to the flare up of the Thomas Fire my clients were forced to evacuate making my current financial deficit not good.  I got royally fucked by this fire, but hey lots of people lost way more then me or at least that is what I tell myself so I don’t go nuts.  The wind was super strong off shore down in Ventura and Oxnard.  My lady had some Christmas shopping to take care of and decided to come along.  I had a look at both Hollywood and Shores.  Each had potential, on super shifty and the other too walled respectively.  The Ship end of the Strand was the call. It was fun looking chest to head plus with nicely groomed off shore barrels and a very manageable crowd.  Stoked I jumped into a barrel fest.  If I thought last week’s Shores session was fruitful for the barrel this Strand session was a feast.  Good times

12-16-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 34
I woke up this morning and it was black as night out my window.  I checked my clock and it was 7:30 and I had work at 8.  Turns out the fires flared up with the strong winds over night and had come back over the ridge of the mountain and were burning Montecito.  The evacuation notices began to pour in on my phone as did heavy ash fall out.  I got out of work and from what I heard the winds down south were shitty and the 101 north bound was shut down just under Rincon.  The 101 north bound between Santa Barbara and Goleta was also closed for some oil tanker that over turned.  It looked like shit at the breaks around my home.  I waited a little bit then headed north.  There were two short period west swells on the buoy and I was sure that Naples would be fun, also the winds were off shore, a rarity for that spot.  In want of some fresh air my girl decided to join me.  Sure enough Naples was flawless chest high plus with one guy out at Seals.  It was a bit more consistent up top.  The swell was pretty broken up making it more short peaks and some a LEFTS!!.  I ended up paddling just under the Crack Peak were there was a super fun A-frame and the lefts going back at the main peak courtesy of the off shore wind were opening up wide.  I had some really cherry barrels on the lefts.  My boy Nathan paddled out towards the evening with two other guys.  They stuck to the right on the Crack Peak.  Over all it was probably the second best I have gotten Naples this season.  The air quality was actually super clean and clear too.

12-15-17 PM Session: 2-3 ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins 
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 42
Initially I was hoping to get down south after work and either surf Strand or one of the points. Then Cody hit me up and offered me 100 bucks if I would pick him up from a job in Shell Beach.  That was a no brainer to fill my pockets with easy money.  It only cost me twenty in gas up there at best.  I decided to head that way and surf something in Gaviota on the way up.  There was still a fair amount of west swell, reports all week claimed that there had been fun waves up there all swell, plus Pat hit me up and let me know that all of the points with the exception of Rincon, which was packed, were small.  I found myself on the bluff above El Cap staring out at a thirty strong crowd, chest high plus, very inconsistent waves.  To add injury to insult Cody called and said he did not need the ride anymore.  I considered walking into Naples. It was already 3:30 and it gets dark at just about five.  Out of options I grabbed my short board and fish and headed down the trail to the break.  With the lulls, the dropping swell and the lateness of hour the crowd was slowly on the decline.  Considering the size, the crowd and lack of real sets I opted for my fish and basically sat mid point and frothed on what ever I could scrap.  My first one was actually a decent runner all the way to the bottom.  Over all I got some pretty fun ones.  Whenever a wave is over crowded it just takes some of the fun out of it, especially at an out of the way spot like El Capitan.  On the way home I met up with my lady and we bought a Christmas tree.

12-14-17 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
Thus ends a run at a perfect month and a 17 day straight streak.  Sadly my girl friend’s grandmother passed away and the funeral service and proceedings had me booked from about 8 am till 5 pm, I could have squeezed in a dusk lead better session or an afternoon El Capitan run. My lady needed me and to be honest she doesn’t ask too much me and has been rather understanding with my surfing addiction.  I could not think of a more crucial reason to end a perfect month attempt.

12-13-17 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 54
It might as well have been the 13th of the month.  Nothing went my way today.  All the street parking at Bates was full and was spilled out on to the freeway.  I had a look at Little Rincon, which I hardly even know why I bother checking.  The place is good like six times a year.  Every once in a while there can be some really amazing sand there, but so far it has not been the case this fall.  From there I checked Pitas.  There was a chest high wave up top with minimal wrap.  The lines were short and there was still like six guys on it.  Over it I headed back Rincon.  Ryan and Kieth were already there, both besides themselves with how crowded it was for the wave quality, air quality and accessibility.  It had to be like sixty strong on the whole point.  Still for a WNW swell on low tide that was actually a light crowd.  The boys bailed, but I decided to paddle having plenty of time to float around and get my waves in.  I did two drifts from Indicator all the way through the Cove and definitely got my share.  Of course I also got my share of heinous burns too.  My last wave was the best one of the day.  I had sat in the Cove for nearly an hour when I finally finagled an in between wave that had potential to grow and run to the 101. I was deep, but over sitting around was determined to make it.  Some dick head long boarder decided that I wasn’t going to make it, mainly cause I am goofy and that is what always happens to us.  People know that if a goofy gets burned on a long section his odds of catching up are slim.  Well this logger was not anticipating the speed I can get out of a long section.  I cleared it and then went right into the lip to climb the next section in attempt to get out of the guy in front wake.  I successfully did this, but then had to climb another two sections before finding myself directly behind him.  The wake was so large being kicked up by this guys trim that I could hardly see in front of me and I at that point had to climb the actual wake.  Lucky the wave shouldered for a minute allowing me to force a pass and the perpetrator pulled out allowing me to enjoy the remaining 100 yards of wave cause this one was going all the way.  I did three more solid turns before my legs gave out and I finished with a foam ball floater.  On drive home I saw some idiots in a convertible with the top down wearing masks.  Fucking Idiots.  I am totally over this fire.

12-12-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20 
Miles Driven: 30
Despite fielding yet another two big cancellations for work I still had to go in today early in order to sort out what we were going to do with all of the food that had already been prepared and ordered.  After work I decided to put on my imaginary gas mask and head down to Rincon.  The WNW was of the right angle and duration for it to finally be fun on the points.  The lots were closed but guys were parked under the over pass along Bates.  I did the same and made my way down to the point to check it.  This was by far the worst air quality I had been subjected to since the fire started.  There was lots of ash raining down and the air was thick and putrid to breath.  In mind I though that it would have to be really decent ‘Con to get me out there in such.   Sure enough I saw a solid five wave head plus set roll through Cove and peel all the way to the Freeway.  The crowd was twenty strong along the whole point.  I had to paddle.  Its amazing how much more fun Rincon is to surf when one is not constantly being hassled by the crowd.  It really allows your imagination and creativity on a wave to flow.  I went way bigger and tried many different things on sections I would have normally had to race past because had I tried to pull something there would definitely be some dick that would use that advantage to burn me.  It was a catch 22 cause the air was so bad that I found myself out of breath and coughing up a lung after ever ride.  New meaning was given to the phrase “pay to play”. By twenty waves I was really hurting and had to leave.  Fuck I got mine and I would say it was totally worth it.  Fuck I will most likely go back and do it again tomorrow.

12-11-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 46
Miles Driven: 78
Once again work was canceled this morning.  If I wasn’t going to make money I might as well chase the surf.  Ryan said Shores looked fun again so I headed there.  It was solid, but with out the off shore winds most peaks looked very racy and shifty.  There were some choice waves out there, but it looked to me like it was going to be a lot of work to chase them down.  Before paddling there I decided to check Strand.  I had a feeling that it was going to be good there.  Sure enough the Ship had some fun looking peaks with better ones towards the bowl.  I paddled and had a rip fest.  The crowd was never more then a handful of guys the whole surf.  When I got out there were still some fun ones though it got a bit messed up with the on shore wind.  I had blast.  On the way home the fire had crossed the mountain ridge and was burning on the ocean side from Carpinteria all the way through Santa Barbara.  Even now while I am typing this I am watching the fires burn from out my window.  They say this will most likely be the largest recorded blaze in California history.

12-10-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 48
Miles Driven: 76
I was woken up at about 3 am to an emergency evacuation notice for select areas of south eastern Montecito.  That means the fire is on a fast track up this way to Santa Barbara.  It is mostly burning east of us, with sun downer winds and the always possible NW gale one can not take such a situation so lightly.  I do live on the beach and if my apartment goes then pretty much the entire town has gone with it.  I was suppose to have a dinner gig tonight, but my chef let me know early on that  due to the circumstances the client had canceled.  That is four jobs with a possible five since the Thomas Fire broke out. In catering the three weeks leading up to Christmas is when we all clean house on rather profitable events. So far I am already out rather large sum and counting.  With no job and no worries if I was able to get back to SB or not I headed down to Oxnard Shores where I was told it was rather fun.  I was pleasantly surprised after getting through the “death fog smoke”  I was pleasantly surprised with fun chest high plus off shore groomed lefts and rights and clean air.   The crowd was also rather light and spread out.  I paddled near Fifth and frothed on the fun conditions. When I say it was hand over fist barrels I mean it.  Out of 48 waves I managed about 40 tubes.  Ryan was out with Jersey stalwart Keith Noonan, who is currently staying with him in Ventura.  Phil was out with the harrowing tale of how on Wednesday night him and his neighbor saved their homes down off Solimar with brooms and a Fire House.  In the end everyone was safe and stoked to be sharing some pits together.  No matter what happens there will always be surfing to keep us stoked.

12-9-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 102
The original plan was to go to Jalama this morning.  Last night I found out my girl’s father needed assistance in buying a new suit, a task I am a rather keen candidate for.  I have an Italian suit shop I frequent in Oxnard and knew it was the perfect place to go.  Since the off shores were still blowing, there was some fresh WNW on the buoys and from what my sources told me the smoke cloud was not hanging over the Oxnard beaches.  Suit shopping went off famously after, which I made my way to Strand.  The Ship was flat, while the Bowl and the North End had a chest to head high wave.  Pat called and said New Jetty looked good and was worth coming to.  I got there and of course the wind had come  up forcing me to turn around and head back to Strand.  I paddled the North End.  With the off shores, the fat tide and inconsistent sets getting a good was was tough.  Also I suck at surfing the North End making it even more frustrating.  Eventually I got into a groove and found a few choice lefts and rights.  Pat paddled a bit after and we made the most of it.  It wasn’t epic, but I had fun.

12-8-17 PM Session: 1-2 ft, Lead Better 
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 0
I had to work today. Although with the way things are going more and more jobs of mine are getting canceled due to the fire and shitty air conditions.  I had three gigs canned on me and possibly a fourth if things don’t clear up soon.   This is not good, but what can you do?  There are a lot of people who have lost way more then me in this fire.  After work I had a look at Lead Better in front of my house.  There was a small wave with the new long period WNW ground swell.  It was clean and running down the point.  Thanks to the shitty air no one was out, which is rare for a Friday afternoon with a little wave.  I paddled with my fish.  By the time I walked home and suited up, two more people paddled out.  That was fine, there were plenty of waves and to be honest it would have been tad bit eerie out there all alone.  I managed a few runners that my fish aloud to be fun.

12-7-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama Beach
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Miles Driven: 126
With the fire still burning, now in in between Carpinteria and Ventura traveling south for surf out of the question for the third straight day in a row. Back to Jalama it was.  There was less swell in the water then yesterday, but enough to lead me to believe that Cracks would at least have a chest high wave. Once again when I got there the wind was south and there was definitely a chop on it, though it appeared that it must have switched not long before my arrival.  I drove so I made the walk to Cracks.  The water wasn’t nearly as chopped up as yesterday.  There were about eight guys out, but I could tell they were running out of steam.  Everyone was spread among three peaks anyway.  I paddled and sure enough with in the hour the majority of the group had cleared out.  The waves were much weaker and inconsistent from the previous days.  Still it ended up glassing off and when a wave did come through it was well worth the wait.  Towards the end of my session guys kept coming in four packs till there were easily fifteen guys out, way too many for what was on offer.  Ten of them all knew each other.  I don’t know if they were camping or what cause I didn’t recognize any faces.  Whatever happened to the days of going surfing alone and not bringing all your friends.  These guys who travel in four packs are the problem.  Whatever by the time they paddled the tide was too low anyway and I had already got mine.  One just hates seeing an out of the way spot like that get mobbed by unfamiliar faces.

12-6-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama Beach
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 126
I woke up and checked the C Street camera and there was so much smoke I could barely see the parking.  This should not have been surprising considering how bad the air quality was in Santa Barbara.  I had a few chores to take care of around the house that I have been putting off the past couple of days.  Since high tide was at 11 I figured if I could be out of the house by noon I would get there with the perfect window.  When I got into view of the ocean there was a strange chop on the water that did not have me stoked.  Three guys were out at Cracks and two at T’s.  No one was getting anything worth while.  I had already drove so I might as well surf was my thinking.  I walked past Cracks and had a look at Tarantella’s.  One guy was on the left.  It appeared to be rather torn up with the strange chop, despite the fact that there was little to no wind.  I guess there must have been a strong gale off the coast.  Whatever the case I paddled Tarantella’s right.  There were some real bombs coming through.  They were hitting all over the place and very hard to surf with all the chop on the face.  Then if I made it past that at times all the kelp from the draining tide was an issue.  I struggle for most of the session, till about forty five minutes before dark, when it began to clean up with the sun downer winds.  At this point I frothed and grabbed about ten really fun rights that made the mission worth while.  At the very least I am stoked I am surfing and able to and not dealing with all the mayhem of the Thomas fire.  As I am typing this it is moving steadily toward Santa Barbara.  One can only hope it gets under control soon or I may not be writing for a bit.

12-5-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama Beach
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
Miles Driven: 126
My initial plans today were to head down to Ventura late morning to continue taking advantage of the Santa Anna’s.  Last night pretty much all of Santa Barbara lost power for an unknown reason to us.  When I woke up this morning to feed my cat I looked out my kitchen window and across the channel where Ventura usually is was completely engulfed by a reddish brown cloud. That can only mean one thing, fire.  I checked my instagram and sure enough there were some rather disturbing pictures of a good deal of Ventura burning.  I sent out a few texts to friends down that way and everyone said it was super gnarly.  With that in mind I decided to go north.  It was a good thing I did cause as I was packing my car the ash cloud had began to shroud Santa Barbara.  I didn’t hesitate to get out of there.  I hit the one and sky’s though hazy were clear.  This was my first time up to Jalama in months.  It was a treat to test my cars’ metal on the windy road.  Once in clear view of the ocean I could see there were still some solid bombers getting in.  Stoked I headed to Cracks, which was about chest to head with a few bigger sets (the usually Jalama rogue sets) with only about four guys out.  Tide was fat, but there were enough peelers coming down the reef to make it kill-able.  It was fun to get some rip-able lefts.  As the tide dropped it got a bit more walled, though still some sickies came through.  Lately my left shoulder has been bothering me and if not for that I probably would have surfed till my arms fell off.  It may not have been the best Jalama I have surfed, but it was enough for me to buy my 2018 season pass on the way out.

12-4-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 78
I have been needing an oil change for about 1000 miles now.  The dealer I bought my car from owed me a free oil change as part of the deal.  Since they are just down the way from Strand in Oxnard I figured why not meet up with Ryan, drop my car off and go surf while the work gets done.  We knew that Santa Anna’s were expected for this week.  Nothing had really shown as of ten and I assumed that they were a day off.  By the time Ryan and I got to Strand the wind was whipping out of the NE.  Though a bit fat still there plenty of waves coming in at the Ship with not too many guys out.  It was a slow start.  With a fast dropping tide all day it wasn’t long before there were spitting barrels up and down the beach.  The crowd was very manageable.  I think it was that there were just good waves everywhere and it spread people out.  I got my share of tubes that’s for sure.  Looks like we should stay in this wind pattern for the next few days.  Surfline is calling for some SW combo to show up too.  After a week of points last week I am ready for some beachie fun.

12-3-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 30
I wasn’t expecting to get a surf in at all today.   I had work at 11 am for a private brunch at some literal billionaire’s estate that was suppose to run till after five.  After the previous nights party I was hard pressed to get out of bed early enough to get a surf in before.  The gig went down with out a hitch and cleared out earlier then anticipated leaving me just enough light to run home, grab my gear and get to Rincon.  The tide was a gnarly negative one below sea level draining everything out.  It was with out a doubt the most drained I have ever seen Rincon.  There was a wave coming through.  For whatever reason the lines were all broken up as if there was wind in the channel yet there was none.  Maybe it was from the tide.  I grabbed my fish since sets were few and far between and paddled the Cove.  It was super racy and a bit scalloped out, not to mention riddled with some backwash from the exposed sand bars.  I ate shit on my first five waves not being able to position myself and get going fast enough to get through all the weirdness to make the line.  I quickly adjusted my approach and by the end was getting some speedy ones all the way through.  It was far from epic ‘Con, but I had a ball and it was a bonus surf I was not expecting.

12-2-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 30
Three solid days of the ‘Con in a row, shit it must be winter time.  Its rare to catch me at Rincon on a Saturday, but with a tight pre-work schedule and an extreme full moon seven foot high tide, I figured I would be able to get a few.  For a Saturday The Queen was super empty.  Despite the high tide there were an adequate amount of waves coming in to warrant a paddle on my short board. I started at the Lower River Mouth where on the super high tides one can get a racy line, that most other times is just a close out.  There is so much weird sand all over the point right now.  It is actually causing the wave to be way more sectiony up and down the point.  We need a couple of solid swells and some rain to line the sand up a bit.  I was in the groove today.  It was the first time I felt in sequence with ‘Con so far this season.  To that accord I was stoked.  Randy Townsend and a crew of LBI guys were out.  Those guys always make there way out here once the temperature in NJ starts to get frigid.  Normally I am stoked to share waves with guys from back home.  After the fall that they just had compared to ours I am not about to give out set waves.  Somehow I managed to get stuck in the Cove with only twenty minutes till I had to go, which steadily became 45 minutes and me borderline being late.  Rincon can really be a time suck sometimes.  I managed to scratch into a grower that peeled all the way to the freeway and still managed to make it to work on time.  Rest of my day was spent schlepping food.   Later that night we all rolled out to Wild Cat to celebrate my boy Chris’ birthday.  I would say it was a rather full day.

12-1-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 30
I wanted to get up way earlier to surf this morning.  Certain circumstances at home kept me up later then I wanted to be and then contributed to a somewhat sleepless night.  I had work at 11 am thus realistically only leaving time for Rincon.   There actually wasn’t a bad high tide wave coming in up top and the crowd was light.  I stuck to the River Mouth section.  The swell was a tad smaller and more broken up then yesterday.  Every ten minutes another five to ten guys would show up and paddle.  Unlike yesterday, today I was in rhythm and found some fun ones.  My second to last wave doubled up and gave me a little tube that made my whole day.  Like I said Rincon can hate on you one day and then shine on you the next.