October 2010 Surf Sessions
10/31/10 – PM Session – 1-3ft, Emma Wood
I knew it was going to be meager but was not prepared for the shitty knee to waist high dribble onshore crap I ended up paddling out in. It was so bad I had the whole place to myself. I actually found a couple of small lefts and the weather was nice and the sunset shaped up to make it a beautiful evening to be one with the sea.
10/30/10 – PM Session – 2-3ft, Rincon
Man did this swell die fast. I got back to the Con’ at around 5ish. To my dismay the wind had gone hard north west and the surf had dropped substantially. The cove was still fairly clean with the occasional chest high set. The crowd was light with only about twenty people on it and Im on this new program where I want to surf as much as possible no matter what the conditions. That being the case I paddled out. The cove turned out to be a bust on the higher tide with most waves very weak and hard to ride on a short board. Then a bus load of frothy sponsored groms showed up which inspired me to paddle up to the river mouth section and give that a go. It was choppier up there but only four guys out and consistently chest to head high. I actually found a couple of fun ones.
10/30/10 – AM Session – 3-5ft, Rincon
I have always heard about those warriors who wake up and paddle out before the sun is even up just to grab a few waves before work. I seldom believed that would ever be me; that is of course until my alarm went off at 5:30am this morning and I found myself pulling into the parking lot at Rincon in the Dark, putting on my suit and paddling out in blackness. When I got out there four guys already on it. Imagine how early they got up? It was way more inconsistent then yesterday and the tide was a bit fat forcing me to surf up at mid Indicator but it was clean and I managed to get at least four waves from Indicator to the top of the cove. By 8am I was out of the water and getting dressed for work just as the thick of the crowd was beginning to file into the lot.
10/29/10 – PM Session – 3-4ft, Rincon
The NW filled in nicely for the afternoon surf unfortunately so did SW winds the worst for all of our points. Rincon still had some open faces with plenty of surface texture. This kept the crowds down and allowed Brook-o, Devin, Lindsay and I to enjoy pretty fun Rincon none the less. I had about a dozen ten turn waves through the cove.
10/29/10 – AM Session – 4-6ft, River Mouth
There are good surf session, there are great surf session and then there are sessions that go down as all time. This morning at River Mouth was one of the latter. It was a barrel factory out there. The first hour was nothing but perfect left and right hand draining barrels with light offshore winds. By 11am I had gotten so many deep barrels I had lost count. It reminded me of really good Hatteras. Everywhere you looked someone was getting spit out of a tube or there was a perfect cylinder running through unridden. After three solid hours the wind came up ending one of the better sessions I have had this fall and in the last six months. Here is a pic from the session.
10/28/10 AM Session – 2-4ft, River Mouth
We were graced with some nice offshore flow making for perfect conditions and bowly right and left chest to head high plus barrels everywhere. There were about thirty guys out but spread along 500 yards of beach, plenty of waves for everyone. My boy Brook-o showed up and we have not surfed together for a while. We ended up on a perfect little A-frame peak all to ourselves trading rights and lefts all morning. It was good times.
10/27/10 AM Session – 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Thanks to a last minute change in my usual 7am-3pm work schedule I was garnished with a morning session. As I was driving down to surf the water was so glassy. It had been a while since I have seen a glassy ocean and I was in awe. Rincon and all the points were small and with the impending 6ft high tide and plenty of combo swell I decided to give Emma Wood a look. Surf was decent enough, chest to head high and relatively clean although a bit crossed up with the different swells. There were only around ten guys or so on it and plenty of waves to be had with some offering up a barrel. On my first wave I got shacked off my ass but just got pinched right at the end as I tried to escape doggy door. Later in the session I got my revenge with a deep back door pig dog barrel I cleared clean. The wind got funky for the last half hour or so but other then that I would have to say it was a fine session. As I was leaving Tom Curren and his kids were suiting up and when I got back to my car and was changing Dane Reynolds pulled add to the already circus that lineup had become.
10/26/10 PM Session – 2-4ft, Pitas
See blog “I hate Idiots” for more details.
10/25/10 PM Session – 2-3ft, Pitas
I have not surfed Pitas in months, not since early June when I almost stuck a superman while busting stupid airs going left at this right hand point. With the heavy NNW winds I intended on just going back to Rincon again where I hoped would be more swell. Well it was about a foot bigger but also had thirty guys on it all fighting for the same Knee to waist high sets. My buddy Devin called me and said Pitas was messy but had some head high sets coming in. I asked if I came down that way if he would paddle with me. He was game. I got there and sure enough it was all torn up. Pitas is a huge point and a lot of times the top can be completely blown out but the mid section of the point side shore/offshore. As it turned out there were some choice nuggets down that way. I got plenty of four and five turn rights and even scored a larrel. Today was another case of making something out of nothing.
10/24/10 PM Session – 1-2+ft, Rincon
I still dont know why I even paddled out. After all these years I still somehow cant help but to grovel knee to thigh high surf. I got off from work and knew it was windy and Im not talking afternoon sea breeze Im talking hard NW winds. That left most spots that are exposed to real swell out of the question and most protected spots also a no go due to the lack of wind swell filtering in. Not looking to drive around to no avail I just went right to Rincon figuring I could grovel something in the cove. It was tiny but I found a few thigh high waves I managed to get four or five turns on and the crowd was super light, six people at the most. My friend Corbett was out ridding a long board. He is from Jersey also and moved out here about the same time I was living between SB and NJ. The last few years or so he has been experimenting with all kinds of fin less boards and hulls and other weird ass stuff. The guy has always been one of the best surfers I have ever known. Im talking world class. Just watching him surf a mal’ with so much skill and grace in absolute crap was worth the trip in itself. Some people just have it natural.
10/23/10 PM Session – 2-3ft, New Jetty
Its been a Jersey kind of week riddled with onshore winds and pick and choose close out corners yet I keep coming back for more. I actually intended on surfing Cstreet this afternoon but as it turned out there was a contest wrapping up and no free parking available. Well there are only a few days a year at best that I think Cstreet is worth paying $2 for and tonight was not one of them and it was shit house crowded with 50 guys spread out amongst the entire point. As I was checking it my boy Devin showed up looking for some waves both of us decided to just go to the harbor and swift through the crap rather then stay at Cstreet and swift through the crowd. We pulled up and it was about waist to chest high with some surface chop on it but no one was out and there was an occasional drained out left to ride. I was hating my decision the entire first half of the session but then came out of this gnarly back door below sea level suck up tube that should have not happened. It only takes that one wave to make the session worth while. Cap it off with a beautiful sunset and evening shared with a good friend. Can you really ask for more out of life? I could, glassy barrels.
10/22/10 AM Session – 2-3+ft, New Jetty
More onshore wind wtf mate? I get two mother fucking mornings off a week and of course both of them had to be high tide, onshore and crappy. I ended up driving around a 15 mile loop going from Cstreet to harbor, to Emma Wood. I actually thought Emma Wood although on the smallish side looked clean and fun, but as I was about get dressed a crew of like six groms and their idiot trainer pulled up thus clogging the already ten head deep line up. Brook-o, his friend Matt and I decided to go surf some chop at New Jetty to beat the crowd. Surprisingly it was better then it looked yet not by much, Big Bobby B showed up rounding out the crew and we had a friendly surf in absolute crap.
10/21/10 AM Session – 2-3ft, New Jetty
After I lazily stayed home the past two days despite the fact that there were grovel-able waves I could not bare to barney the morning by staying in bed not withstanding the fact that I am currently fighting off a cold most likely brought on as a result of all the rain and subsequent dirty water I have been paddling around in. I only have the opportunity to surf two morning sessions a week now so I have to take advantage of all I can, heck that goes for time in the water in general. I saw a guy get what looked like a semi clean chest high five turn wave at cstreet on the cam and it got me out of bed and in the car. Of course an incoming rain squall brought an onslaught of onshore wind right as I put my wet suit on to surf fun looking chest high lefts with one guy out. By the time I got my fifth wave it was California victory at sea (meaning choppy). I put in an hour and half and actually stuck a few crafty airs.
1o/20/10 – 1-3ft, No Surfing
Just could not motivate myself to drive down to Cstreet to grovel.
1o/19/10 – 1-3ft, No Surfing
Windy, Small and rainy conditions persuaded me to take the day off.
10/18/1o PM Session – 2-3ft, River Mouth
I called my boy Ryan down south for a report, he said to not bother and save my gas money. Then Lindsay called me and she was down to grovel. Misery loves company so we decided to make a gamble. Turns out there was still some residual swell clinging to the ocean. There was a bit of wind on it when we got to the harbor and New Jetty had about eight guys on it. River mouth on the other hand looked fun and empty. We started dressing when a bolt of lightning struck over our heads. Whenever such a case arises I use the 15 minute rule, wait 15 minutes if no more lightning then go surf. In that duration none was heard or seen and my friend Rico and some other dude pulled up and they were keen so we all went and made the most of the peaky windy chest high lefts coming in.
10/17/10 PM Session – 2-3ft, New Jetty
Another New Jetty after work score! The funny thing is the afternoons are usually always windy making this spot not an after work option at all. I must have a leprechaun up my ass or something cause the winds have been very manageable the last two weeks. It was not quite as good as yesterday but there were still some choice lefts to be had. Of course there was this crew of guys sponsored by some company Rhythm who have been showing up in mass and crowding the peak. I hate it when one company picks up like six guys in one area and they all decide to crew up and crowd a local wave. Whatever I still got mine. Sean Hayes was out getting his as well. Fun times for all.
10/16/10 PM Session – 2-4ft, New Jetty
There is nothing worse then rain in California. Its all gloomy and your just not used to it. If you surf though it can usually work to your advantage with light crowds and good winds. On the short end of the stick the water can be near toxic from run off. The last three days here have been nothing but drizzle but with plenty of south swell and light wind making for fun beach break action down south that is usually relegated to the summer. I enjoyed some fun chest to head high lefts after work with a light crowd and even stuck a full rotation ally oop. Then half an hour before dark the line up got mobbed by two separate crews of paddlers and became a shit fight. I drifted down the beach and found some inside nugs all to myself.
10/15/10 PM Session – 2-3ft, New Jetty
After the Jalama session I was eager to get more waves. The wind was light and I heard it was fun in the am plus a new south west was suppose too fill in. I got down to the harbor and it was rather uninspiring. Too windy for River mouth making a repeat of yesterday out of the question. New Jetty looked a bit soft and a bit crowded with at least ten guys out. More of me wanted to go home then surf but I made the drive and Im trying to force myself to surf as much as possible on my days off. Turns out I made the right decision to paddle out. It was super rip-able with the light onshore wind and rampy sections all over the place. I hit one of the best ally opps of my life and even snagged a little barrel off the Jetty. Sometimes the most unlikely of days produce a great session.
10/15/10 AM Session – 3-5ft, Jalama
There is nothing like getting a break from humanity and making the trek up to Jalama especially with no wind and a holding south swell. Conditions were glassy and the sand bars have finally gotten back to normal allowing for plenty of fun barrels. I ended up cruising up with Lindsay being her first time there she was more then amped on the conditions. Crowd was surprisingly heavy with a solid thirty guys from T-Cracks to inside Tarantulas. I mean this time of year your lucky if there are more then five guys out, but the water was crazy warm so I guess it evens out and besides I still got a ton of great waves. I also found out they sell a Jalama pass for $44 bucks for the year. Im all over that.
10/14/1o PM Session – 2-4ft, Santa Clarita River Mouth
I never have high hopes for an after work session especially if I have to go to Ventura where more times then not the wind is going to be on it. The Cstreet cam was showing clean chest to head high waves coming in behooving me to believe that the harbor would have good conditions also. I headed that way figuring on surfing New Jetty, but upon checking it noticed that the late season south swell was working its magic on the ledgey sand bars at river mouth, a sight I have not seen since late spring time this year. I called this new guy at work Kevin, who met me in the parking lot at the knoll and together with about five other guys spread along 8 different peaks we enjoyed glassy slab lefts. It was a fucking below sea level, backless barrel fest.
10/13/10 AM Session – 2-4ft, Leo Carrillo
I had high hopes for this session, but when I got to Ventura it was foggy, cold, windy and small. This led me to car surf for over two hours before using the benefit of intel from both my friends Ryan and Devin I decided to go to Malibu for some late season south swell action and better winds. I met Devin at Leo where it was a bit inconsistent but fun chest to head high peaks coming in with a light crowd of ten or so sitting on the rock. Leo is a super tight line up so on an inconsistent day like this ten was still almost too crowded. I had the whole day and in the course of a three and a half hour session managed to surf a bunch of fun rights despite the typical rude selfish L.A. surf mentality.
10/12/10 PM Session – 3-5ft, Hollywood By The Sea
See Blog “Another Line Up Altercation“
10/12/10 AM Session – 1-3ft+, Rincon
I had to be at work at 9am so I got up at 6:15 and went to Rincon for a quickie. I knew it was not going to be the best place to surf but figured I would get a few. Turns out it was super inconsistent with the occasional chest to head high set up at Indicator every thirty minutes with 25 guys on it. I caught about 5 waves in over an hour of surfing. I should have just stayed in bed.
10/11/10 AM Session – 1-3ft+, Rincon
Im not going to lie I was very enthusiastic about getting some waves this morning especially after not surfing the last three days. I was cruising south to either harbor or Cstreet when as I was passing Rincon I saw a set that peaked my interest enough to force me to U-turn and give it a go. Also being the closest surf spot to work and the gas money saved anytime I can get waves at Rincon makes sense. It was definitely a lot smaller and fatter with the steadily rising high tide then I like to surf the Con’ but my decision was regrettably made and I paddled out up at Indicator to high river mouth to do some groveling. Conditions were flawless with not a drop of water out of place oil glass and a light crowd. I ended up getting a few alright but forgettable rides.
10/10/10 – 1-3ft, No Surfing
10/9/10 – 1-2ft, No Surfing
More less then perfect surf led me to another surf free day. I probably could have made an excursion north up to Surf Beach and found some ride able chest highish surf, but with new swell on the way for Monday through most likely the next five days or so I decided to kick it and save the gas money not really jones’n.
10/8/10 – 1-3ft, No Surfing
I was not in the mood to grovel so I took the day off.
10/7/10 PM Session – 1-3ft, Cstreet
Meager left overs furnished a less then stellar session up at pipes with some steady NW wind adding an annoying cross chop to the face. There was myself, a grom and two older guys doing the best we could. I almost got out after the first ten minutes, but then all of a sudden I began groveling like a champ. You know, give me the shittiest conditions imaginable and I will always seem to shine in it. Good surf brings out my flaws but bad surf is where I turn on.
10/6/10 PM Session – 1-3ft, Rincon
What a mistake, my rule of thumb always is not to get fooled from a Rincon drive by. As I passed by the Con’ on the 101 I saw a solid chest high set streak down the point with less then a dozen guys spread along the whole thing. I flipped a bitch, suited up and paddled out only to find it less consistent and a lot more kelpy then I would have liked. I surfed up at Indicators with four other guys eventually being left all to my lonesome. I had a few alright waves, if it was not for he kelp it could have been sick, overall I should have went to c-street. I guess anytime you can get Rincon uncrowded is a novel event in itself.
10/6/10 AM Session – 3-5ft New Jetty
I had a late start today not leaving my house till after eight, its my day off I deserve it, plus it was raining, cold and the tide was super fat. When I pulled up to New Jetty I was pleasantly surprised with bigger surf then yesterday and light offshore winds to glassy conditions. The surf was definitely more walled but there were still plenty of corners spread amongst the beach. Crowd was a bit heavier to start, with more then 20 guys on it, but after an hour the early shift left and some of my shift were over it dropping things down to a manageable 10 heads. It was totally pick and choose yet I still found a few deep shacks and with lighter wind there was plenty of room for some radical maneuvers. I put in three hours till the wind switched light onshore.
10/5/10 PM Session – 2-3, Emma Wood
Lindsay and I cruised for a twilight session hoping the wind would either straighten more offshore or die all together. Neither happened so we settled for side shore/offshore Emma Wood with around four guys out and chest high plus conditions. There were plenty of waves yet I could not get on one to save my life, while this crazy bald guy managed to snag every good left that came in pissing me off. Finally in the last ten minutes of the session I snagged a pretty ridiculous backside barrel going against the grain and got spit out to make the drive worth while. Sometimes thats all it takes is one.
10/5/10 AM Session – 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Its pretty ironic that today was also what I would call a “Jersey Session” except unlike yesterday I am using it to describe an awesome surf. The wind was offshore, a California rarity, sure there is always that myth about “Santa Anna Winds”. They blow for like a day and a half. I think if I see a dozen true offshore days a year out here it is a lot. This morning was one of them. I pulled up to New Jetty and Im not going to lie it looked a little fat with the high tide and around eight guys one it not making it look all that fun. Then after ten minutes of watching I saw a left or two a bit up the beach from the usual take off spot suck out and throw. That was enough for me. What ensued was an onslaught of barrels. If I did 12 turns the entire session it was a lot. I got pitted off my ass on left and right keggers all fucking morning till the wind went side shore at noon but it was fine cause I had been out since around 8:30.
10/4/10 AM Session – 2-3+ft, Cstreet
Today was one of those sessions I have affectionately come to call “Jersey Sessions”. It was rainy, it was cold, the tide was a little bit too fat and the wind onshore. Whenever the conditions are like that, basically shit it makes me think of home. The only difference is in NJ everyone would have been stoked and I still found a few waves I was able to get 5-7 hacks on so I guess it was not like NJ at all. The crowd was light with a meager five guys on it allowing me my pick of the litter on wave selection and that was good because it was also super inconsistent. Then like twenty minutes before I had to leave the line up got marauded by easily 15 guys. It was one of the few times I was not upset about going to work.
10/3/10 No Surf – 2-3 ft
Sometimes you need to take a day off. I woke up this morning a little late and was exhausted, after a few great days of surfing in a row I had no problem with sleeping in a bit before work. I also knew there was plenty of swell in store for the rest of the week.
10/2/10 AM Session – 2-3+ft, Cstreet
I was not sure where to go this morning before work or even if I wanted to go. After much deliberation I forced myself out of bed and on the hunt for a wave. Things were on the smallish side up north but when I got to Cstreet the wind was offshore and there were bowly rights and lefts coming in at Pipes. There were only about thirty guys spread out along the handful of peaks breaking up there, a light crowd for a Saturday. It turned out to be a super session for me, you know one of those session where you surf flawless. They happen once every hundred sessions or so, but when your lucky enough to experience one it makes the rat race of life and the bull shit you go through to make it happen worth while.
10/1/10 AM Session – 2-4ft, New Jetty
With high tide, a minor South Swell and a super Steep NW swell just starting to show and tons of combo action floating around the pacific I knew Ventura would be my best bet. With a small amount of time alloted thanks to work I paddled out at New Jetty where there were wedgy clean left and right peaks up and down the beach with some strange but threadable little barrels to be had. Crowd was surprisingly heavy with a solid 15 heads spread along the beach. I found my share of nuggets and left with plenty.
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