Surfing Ruined My Life

September 2022 Surf Sessions

9-30-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 2
Finally a clean morning was a front. The surf was still atrociously small but at the very least it was glassy. I paddled the north side of the pier where there were a few wedgy lefts and the occasional peeling right going back at the pier. Once again it was very inconsistent with decent rides few and far between. Then the tide came up and so did the wind. I still wanted to get a few more waves and paddled to the south side of the pier where there appeared to be a right wedge. It was here I got my best waves. It was still slow and I needed to be in SB for a very high profile white glove wedding in Summerland. The majority of the clients I work for are wealthy but this group was actually that 1% category that basically run the world. I’m talking billionaires. I saw at least three Bentleys in the valet lot. The event went well but with five courses and two triage kitchens on different ends of the massive estate it was lots of hard work. I didn’t get home to Hueneme till around 1am.

9-29-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 2
After taking yesterday off I decided to force a surf despite the same dismal conditions. I had a look at the Pier first. It wasn’t really happening. Then I cruised over to Rockside which I still wasn’t really feeling but saw a few corners and paddled. There were some decent waves out there it was just that it was very inconsistent and there was a bit of backwash and rips up and down the beach. I made the most of it. My last ride was probably my best. The rest of my day was committed to shaping.

9-28-22 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Miles Driven: 2
Once again the wind decided to be up early though not as hard as the previous mornings. I had a look out front. Rockside had a half dozen guys vying for inconsistent weak small waves and the pier wasn’t much better with a handful of guys on each side. I couldn’t get into it. I wasn’t in the mood to drive all the way to Malibu again today. I had a rather busy day of errands, chores and possibly shaping. I thought maybe I might surf in the afternoon if the waves were worthy. But after three hours of running errands all over Ventura and then an hour plus prepping the outside of my house for the painter, who starts tomorrow, the tide was already pretty low and surf less then inviting. I decided to do a bit more shaping. There are plenty of terrible days of surfing ahead of us this week.

9-27-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 68
Just another day of lackluster surf in Ventura. I wasn’t even sure if I was going to even try to surf till I ran into Dave at the Hueneme Pier. He was pumped when I told him I got some fun waves at Malibu yesterday and volunteered to drive. We cruised checking everything on the way, ultimately deciding to just make a run for Second. Just like yesterday it was inconsistent out there but the shape was much better with longer lines. Dave sat up at Third while I went to lower Second and found a racy right handed that was more then palatable. As the tide dropped so did the already lack of consistency. Over it I paddled up to Third, caught a few with Dave and we bailed. My afternoon was spent shaping away.

9-26-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 68
The wind was up from early once again forcing my hand down south. I cruised to Leo but it was more crowded then Sunday. I almost gave high tide Zeros a paddle till a crew of eight kooks showed up and paddled on a line up that could barely support the three guys out there. On whim I looked at Broad Beach but it was walled and still had a bit more wind then I would have liked. Finally I bit the bullet and just drove to Malibu and paddled Second Peak. There has been a good deal erosion since the last time I had been out there making the banks very steep up to the water edge causing a bit of back wash out in the line up. The south lines were coming in a bit broken up as well. I found a little niche at the bottom of second where there was a racy little right good for two to three turns or a quick air. After the surf I cruised home to do a bit of shaping.

9-25-22 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 4
Miles Driven: 38
I wanted to get wet this morning and was hoping to just grab a few waves out front. Dave met me at the Pier but it was terrible, small and windy. Over it Dave bailed while I stupidly decided to head south to LA. Yeah I know the definition of insanity is to do the same thing and expect different results, yet I still drive south on the weekends with the hopes that the crowds won’t be horrid. Actually when I pulled up Leo was unmanageable. About thirty other guys must have decided the same thing and by the time I got my suit on there were easily forty guys out on the tiny take off zone with very inconsistent sets at best. I wasn’t in the mood to scrap the inside with the groms so I just sat out at the rock and waited my turn as cut throat as getting that turn maybe. After a few waves I wasn’t too jazzed with the waves or the scene. Rather then waste my whole day fighting for mediocre waves I decided to quit and go chill with my wife. Tomorrow is another day after all.

9-24-22 No Surfing : 1-3+ft,
Miles Driven: 2
The wind was up by eight this morning. I had a look at the Pier. There was the same meager south swell I was surfing yesterday in the water only with an annoying cross wind on it coupled with the weekend crowd. I couldn’t bring myself to paddle. My wife had her heart set on going to the Port Hueneme Banana Festival first thing at 10 am. Rather then piss her off and make her late by surfing bad waves I decided to pass and maybe have a look at Leo later. We got the Festival and there was already a line to get in. Once in the port there were free Bananas everywhere along with also sorts of other bs promotional swag. Besides that there were a few moon bounces for the kids, two entertainment stages and food trucks galore. Add the usual junk that vendors pedal at these sort of things and you had yourself a festival. The highlight for us was the free boat tour of the Port. Being new residents down here it was cool to actually see the working Port that has been just on the other side of the concrete wall at the end of our block. Do I think I will attend the festival next year? Probably not. Everyone here knows how much I dislike festivals of any kind, but it was definitely worth the experience. By the afternoon the wind had gotten harder. I checked the cam at Leo and it looked packed. Over it I decided to just enjoy the remainder of the day chilling in my yard with my wife.

9-23-22 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 2
Today was going to be a surf day no matter what. I was still feeling rather congested and on the weak side. Sometimes you just have to force a paddle to help get your body back on track or at least that was what I was thinking. I had a look up the street at the Pier. The surf was definitely on the small side though there were some clean south bowls up and down the beach. It seemed like a perfect day for me to get out there and not exert myself too much. I paddled the north side of the pier where the left bowl was sort of working. There were some sections to hit. Overall I was pretty tired and suffered from light shortness of breath due to my congestion. It was nice to get wet and paddle around a bit. The rest of my day was spent taking easy with some yard work and other chores. Banana festival starts tomorrow here in Port Hueneme, should be a fun time.

9-22-22 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
This cold has been a monkey on my back this week. I was feeling a bit better this morning though still definitely under the weather. I got word that Hueneme was going off and decided at the very least to give it a look. I’m not sure what aspect of going off my source was referring too. The surf was clean with good shape but it was also small and on the inconsistent and weak side. Had I been feeling one hundred percent I would have paddled no question. Considering I was still lacking in the health department I thought it best to take one more day to rest. It wasn’t a total lay day. I had to trim back the trees in front of my house so that a painter can come and repaint the outside finally.

9-21-22 No Surfing : 2-3+ft
Last night I had a horrible time of things. I was super congested causing me a good deal of discomfort. Thus when I woke up this morning I was in no condition to surf or do anything else for that matter. I committed my day to rest.

9-20-22 No Surfing : 3-4+ft
Whatever bug I caught has definitely taken me down for the count. There was still plenty of surf in the water but after yesterday’s endeavor I decided to just rest in the hopes for a speedy recovery so when I do get back in the water I can surf up to my full potential and not at a quarter steam. I actually had plenty of organizational stuff to get done for both myself and Clarks that I have been putting off. Since I needed to conserve my strength I thought it the perfect opportunity. Hopefully I’ll feel up to a surf tomorrow.

9-19-22 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 12
I was feeling awful when I woke up this morning and of course it happened to be one of the best mornings of the year down at the VTA and Oxnard beaches. I mustered up what little strength I had and began looking around. Hueneme was alright though a bit stretched as usual and smaller then I had hoped. It definitely wasn’t good enough for me to paddle in my current degenerate state of health. I cruised to the north end of the Shores where I had heard the bars had been getting better. The Shores can be a magical place. When it’s on it may be one of the best beach breaks in Ventura county. When it’s not the place is hardly surf-able. Today was the best I had seen it in easily a year, if not years. All I saw up and down the beach was overhead spitting A-frame barrels. Even in my weakened state I didn’t hesitate to get back to my car and paddle. I had a brand new Clarks Surfboards Hacksaw Model that I had shaped and man did it feel incredible out there. Despite my inability due to illness the board carried me through a few tubes and hits. Shortly after I paddled the wind went south adding an annoying chop and crumble. Right after that the barrels stopped. I managed a decent two turn combo on an overhead left that brought me to the beach. I was feeling a bit weak and dizzy and rather then push the envelope to surf less then epic waves I threw in the towel. If I were healthy I would have got there an hour earlier and it would have been the score of the fall. That is how luck would have it sometimes.

9-18-22 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
I had a terrible night sleeping. My body was achy and I felt feverish all night. Bizarro had been sick all last week and I fear that I have gotten whatever it was that illed him. I decided to take the day off to relax and get better. From the looks of all the cams and reports I got I didn’t miss much.

9-17-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 2
There was some NW wind swell in the water coupled with some background south. All reports I got were less then average so I just decided to paddle the south side of the pier which was also below average. I started on my new Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy Model. My leash tie broke on my fifth wave. Rather then fiddle with a new tie it was easier just to change boards to my Clarks Bizzle Model. Considering how weak the surf was it was the better board choice anyway. The current was rough forcing a constant paddle the entire session which made getting a good wave difficult. Basically it was a lot of work for a very limited return. The rest of my day and evening was spent working a wedding in Santa Barbara.

9-16-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
It was a Friday, crowded and the smallest waves I had seen in two weeks. That being said the Pier looked peaky and kill-able thus I paddled the same left on the south side I surfed yesterday. Mostly it was left over south with some minor NW wind swell mixed in. I managed a head dip or town and a few airs. Overall it was a pretty nominal surf. My evening was spent working a wedding at the Moxi in Santa Barbara.

9-15-22 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 2
The surf a a bit smaller today. I didn’t have to work till the afternoon. I had a look out front and it was a little walled with scattered corners. My better judgment told me to cruise to Leo or somewhere in LA. Instead I talked myself into paddling the south side of the Pier where I saw an alright left going back towards the pier. Most sets were pretty stretched. I did manage a few little in and out tubes. This body boarder that was out there was calling it 8 ft on the sets. I’d say head high at best. Maybe his perspective was skewed since he was laying down. After the surf I had to drop off some boards at my glasser and pick up a fresh batch for myself. The rest of my afternoon was spent working a private dinner party in Hope Ranch.

9-14-22 No Surfing: 3-4+ft,
Miles Driven: 18
The wind was all funky this morning as was the swell. I was feeling a bit exhausted from surfing so many hours yesterday and my knee wasn’t feeling so hot either. I had a look at Hueneme. There were some broken up weird closed out corners coming through. I was going to just paddled the pier but when I reached for my suit I realized I had forgotten it at home. That was the only sign I needed to not surf Hueneme. Instead I stopped home, picked up my suit and headed to Ventura Harbor. It was absolutely terrible there. Rather then waste any more time on the hunt I cruised home and got some organizational work done before having to head to Santa Barbara to cook a fundraiser.

9-13-22 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Point Dume
Time in Water: 3 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 56
I put in a long afternoon of shaping in order to get this weeks work load out of the way so I could cruise to LA and surf a point today. My original plan was to go surf Malibu but the funky WSW morning winds said otherwise. Driving down every spot had some wind funk on it. I almost paddled Leo but wasn’t in the mood to deal with the crowd. Considering I had the entire day I decided just to head to Dume, park and walk in. Dume is so inconsistent that you need around three hours to get your wave count out there. I got down to the beach and there were around eight guys out. The shape was a little more stretched then I would have liked and the funk wind was adding a bit of side chop on the face there was well. It was still very surf-able so I paddled. As luck would have it the less then stellar conditions sent the crowd packing leaving only five of us out for over an hour and then there were just three of us. I was going to quit after my second hour when my watch died. The waves were getting a bit funky and I was tired. Then the other two guys left and I had it to myself. This never happens thus I kept surfing till the next group of guys showed up. By then I had been in the water over three hours, dehydrated, exhausted and burnt to a crisp by the sun. It wasn’t the best Dume ever, but I had a blast making the sun burn totally worth it. The rest of my evening was spent painting two of the boards that I shaped so I can get them to the glasser Thursday.

9-12-22 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
Shocked at how good the waves were just up the street from my house I tore on my suit. Hueneme Pier was doing it’s thing with no one out. I saw a few decent peaks on the North side and paddled. Bizarro wasn’t far behind with his camera. Jeffery and Ryan showed up as well. Initially I was hunting lefts but as the tide filled in the right going back towards the pier had become the show stopper. Most waves were good for two to three turns and all had a nice end section. Things started to really slow down as we hit the high tide mark. Add to that a few more surfers and it was time for me to take my leave. That was fine since I had a full afternoon of surfboard shaping to do anyway.

9-11-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 34
Some mornings one would be wise to just cut his losses and just surf the first place he checks, especially when his instincts tell him that no where was going to be all that good. Did I listen to those instincts? Absolutely not. Instead I cat surfed for nearly two hours, walked into the Ventura Camp grounds, walked out and ultimately ended up surfing the left at the front of Emma Wood with way to many other surfers and not enough waves to go around. Dying swell and Sunday crowds never go well together. I did manage a few decent waves but overall it was more of a frustration then fun. My entire session was basically spent jockeying for position with twenty other guys. Isn’t surfing great? It was another scorching hot day as well. Rather then be productive I spent the rest of my day updating this surf log so that more people can hate me while sitting in my nice air conditioned house. Hey everyone do me a favor if you enjoy reading these logs maybe consider buying one of my surf boards or at the very least a Tshirt. Show there is some stoke as core left in surfing. I’m tired of seeing line ups full of sheep riding mass produced surfboards.

9-10-22 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Dredge/Indys
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 38
I checked Hueneme first but it was just too drifty with the SE swell to be any real fun. Pat was at the left just north of Emma and said it was good. That wave can be a very special place to surf on these types of swells. I got there and it did look fun except for the 50 plus guys on it. I had a look at Father Johns, which was solid by that spots standards but also had close to forty guys out. Ryan had surfed the left off the backside of the Dredge Jetty, a spot the locals there call Indy’s. It was about chest high, glassy with mixed peaks up and down the beach. There were about twenty guys on it but spread out. Ryan and I paddled and I must say it was rather fun. I try to not surf the Pier Pont waves if I can help it cause of how localized the spots are and the guys out can be a bit over bearing to outsiders. I sat on the inside and just picked off whatever no one else wanted. After about a hour the crowd dropped and it was just Ryan and I sharing the main peak. At this point my knee was spent and I was just looking for one more decent wave. This dude paddled out right off the Jetty and grabbed the first wave that came in with no thought that we were waiting. Then he back paddled us and did it another two times. I was sitting about as deep as one could be to still competently surf all the sections of the wave. Any deeper and the surfer would have to chase the first two sections. I hate when guys sit too deep and ruin what would be good waves. I know he was too deep because I made that mistake a few times. This dude couldn’t seem to get that point. A decent left came in and as I was setting up for it dude back paddled me again. Over it I burned him. He kicked his board at me, missed and I went on to rip the wave to the beach. I quit on that since I had already had my fill. I guess dude was waiting for me to paddle back out so he could get into it with me and when he saw that I was on the beach rode some white water in, ran up to me and got in my face. Apparently he claimed to be a Dredge local though I have never seen him there or any place else in the area ever. I know just about everyone who surfs regularly in my sphere of surfing influence. According to him I won’t be able to get any waves in Pier Pont anymore either. What a fucking joke. I miss the days when we could just duke it out on the beach and then go out separate ways. These days you can’t fight with out some legal repercussion. Should I have burned him, probably not, but then again how many more times was he going to back paddle? This is always a gray area in the surf world. The whole thing was worth a good laugh, especially since he missed two sets while on the beach barking at me. The rest of my day was spent working a wedding on the rooftop of the Moxi.

9-9-22 AM Session: 4-6+ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 2
The SE tropical swell was officially in the water and with it a whole lot of let down. Pat was on it early scouting out everything from Shores to Emma without any real success. On a last ditch effort I decided to just check out front here in Hueneme. I could hear the roar of the surf as I was getting out of my car. The surf was solid head to overhead and there were definitely a few corners to be had. I saw a couple of barrels spit and that was enough to send me running back to my car. I woke up Bizarro and he showed up. There was a left off Tower 3 by Rockside that I was eyeing up and immediately stroked into a few decent lefts with one really good tube. It felt good to ride some heavy waves and my knee held up as well. A few of my friends were out and everything was fine and dandy. That is until Corey Scrivi of Scrivi Surfboards, the cherished son of Hueneme surfing decided to grace us with his presence. First he harassed Bizarro on the beach for filming. Then he paddled right up to me and got in my face about it. I told him I pay my taxes to Hueneme just like he does and it’s a public beach giving me the right to film or do whatever I please. I’m so tired of these bigot surfing nihilists bullys ruining the stoke for everyone with their old fashioned ideals. Surfing is crowded that’s a fact. Since Covid the sport’s popularity has soared. My filming was not the cause of any over crowding anywhere. Fact of the matter is nine days out of ten Hueneme is a below average close out that I really only surf out of pure convenience. It’s not a secret spot either. Everyone knows about it, EVERYONE!!! He went on to call me kook, insult my shaping ability (cause he is a master shaper…) and tell me I wasn’t ever going to get another wave out there again. Right after he said that I caught a left and got barreled. Conditions started to fall apart shortly after the incident. Then I snapped my leash a few waves later and called it a day. The confrontation just bummed me out and ruined my whole day. The rest of my day was spent sweating it out in the shaping room.

9-8-22 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 20
I was rather exhausted when I woke up this morning from the arduous job that we some how miraculously pulled off. I headed back to Fruit Stands. It was clean and peaky but a bit more stretched then the previous days. It seemed as though the new long period swell was not hitting as good as the older combo. Then the wind went south and it got interesting. I was going to bail except I was getting some fun waves despite the wind. My third drift was going to be my last when the wind died and it glassed off. Stoked I ran back up the beach and actually packed two decent barrels into that final drift. Then the surf changed and got way more stretched and inconsistent. I floated around for another forty minutes trying to get a decent wave in before throwing the towel on a close out right bash. My evening was spent working a private birthday party in Montecito.

9-7-22 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 20
Today was the day of the big gig. What was supposed to be a small group dinner for 15 became a passed apps event for 40 which then somehow morphed into an 80 person passed app, stationary food and dessert tables, a wait staff of three, a bar tender and two kitchen staff. Way more moving parts then I would have liked. There is this saying in the industry “keep the moving parts to a minimum”. I got up early and headed to Fruits to grab a quick session to keep my sanity for the rest of the day. The waves looked similar to yesterday. Pat was already out and I joined him. It was almost a little too peaky out there making it hard to be in the right spot. There were tubes but they weren’t quite as hallow as one would have liked to drive through. Basically it wasn’t rip-able and it wasn’t hallow leaving us in this frustrating surfing limbo. Things did improve right about when Ryan showed up and I was just about out of time. I managed three really good ones in a row then called it quits. It was a busy rest of my morning and early afternoon getting everything packed and ready for the job. Luckily as per usual the event went down with out any issues. Now the only issue is collecting my pay. Always a catering nightmare. This why I like working for other people freelance and not myself.

9-6-22 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 20
With yesterday’s score in mind and similar if not better conditions I woke up Bizarro and we cruised straight back to fruits. Sure enough the waves were bigger with even better shape then the previous day. Ryan and Pat showed up and we found a decent peak to ourselves. Biz and I tried to do some water but the strong drift north made it very difficult to line up. After two drifts with limited results we decided to cut out loses and switch to land. It was way easier for me to hold position for a land camera then constantly have to chase him down the beach in the water. Though I had full day of prep work and some shopping to do for this 80 person memorial service on Wednesday the surf was too good not to push the time envelope. I must say it was totally worth the impending time deficit it out me in. When I left Ryan had the place to himself and it was still head high peaky and glassy. It was very difficult to peel myself away. Duty called and the rest of my day was spent sourcing out chicken piccata ingredients, charcuterie goodies, fryer oil and the like. After the shopping came another four hours of prep work in close 100 degree heat. If not for the surf session earlier I’m not sure if I could have survived it.

9-5-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 20
After a bunch of lack luster reports and not being too jazzed on Hueneme, in accordance with being over the crowds I headed back to Ormond Beach. There was south wind on it and the waves looked weak and smaller than yesterday. I really needed a good surf and I didn’t care how much time it took to find I was going to get fun waves. It was my day off after all. My wife and I ran over to Fruit Stands in the hopes of a lighter crowd. Turns out it was about chest plus and super peaky, oil glassy. There were only a handful of guys out. We walked a bit north to an empty peak and set up shop. Pat and Ryan joined us as well. For the first time since my injury my knee felt rather good and I got on a real rip. There were tubes, barrels, turn sections and I even did a few airs. As the tide dropped it began to get a little funky though still very fun. My wife had been on the beach in the heat for a solid amount of time and was being a good sport about it thus I decided to call it a day. The rest if my day was spent shopping for an 80 person cocktail gig I had to lead on Wednesday. That was just the surf session I needed.

9-4-22 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Ormond Beach
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 4
Pat had once again scouted out everywhere and came up wanting. On a last ditch effort he came and picked me up and we cruised over to Ormond. When we got there the surf was chest plus and off shore conditions. It was a little bit on the soft side but there was no one out and it looked fun enough. I honestly can’t remember the last time I had seen off shore conditions. Stoked we paddled and Bizarro showed up to film. Of course we jumped in for a fifteen minute lull and when the sets decided to finally show back up the wind came up out of the NW like a light switch absolutely trashing what was on offer. To add insult to injury this group of like ten kooks showed up and paddled right on us. There was a terrible north drift which took care of the majority of the instant crowd. One dude managed to linger. I caught an on right and as I was approaching the oncoming section this lingerer was on the inside. He was easily fifty yards away from me and had plenty of time to get out of my way. I paid him no attention and focused on setting up a decent hit. I bashed the section hitting something solid in the process. Apparently the dude didn’t get out of the way and I landed on him putting a big hole in my board where it had connected with his head. Frustrated I caught a few more and went in. While I was on the beach changing the guy in question came over and offered me a cold beer as consolation for trashing my board. It was 11am and I had to a work a wedding in SB. If I popped that beer and hung out there was no way I was getting to that event. The temperature in Santa Barbara was 103 at the event and even warmer in front of a 400 degree oven. It was by far one of the most arduous events I have ever had to work. I was borderline pass out status at lease twice. Lord knows how the guests handled it. If I was in attendance I surely would have left. Don’t let the photo fool you cause I didn’t catch one wave that looked like this.

9-3-22 No Surfing: 3-4+ft,
Miles Driven: 12
It figures that the first day of solid surf in over a week fell on a day that I had to work two events, a Bar Mitzfa in Ventura in the morning and a wedding in Santa Barbara in the evening. This left me with only the very early hours of the morning to surf, my least favorite window. Pat had been on the hunt and thought that there was more NW wind swell in the water then south. I decided to check Strand where there were absolutely no waves. Then I had a look at Hueneme which had stretched and closed out corners. At that point my time was limited and it hardly looked worth it for me to jump in. Instead I sweated in the 95 degree heat all morning in the kitchen then sat in holiday weekend traffic for almost two hours also sweating since the A/C in my car is broken. When I got to the Santa Barbara event at Elings Park it was still hot as fuck and the kitchen was set up on a 15 percent grade. It was rather uncomfortable to say the least. I’m off tomorrow morning and plan on scoring something.

9-2-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 16
The buoys were showing some south swell/nw wind swell mix. Hueneme was looking rather walled thus I headed over towards Fruits since Jeffery had already checked the harbor and was not too jazzed on it. We met in the parking lot and cruised up to the beach. Fruit Stands wasn’t great either but it did look like there was the occasional left wedge and right hand shoulder. We paddled and Ryan met us. Once in the water it was a bit more walled then we initially had thought and the current was pretty stiff south too. Then the wind came up a bit on shore making it even harder to surf. Ryan and Jeffery bailed to go check New Jetty. I stuck it out for a few more waves before calling it a day. That evening had to work a party in SB that was rather uneventful.

9-1-22 AM No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
There was a tad bit more surf in the water then yesterday though still very small. Conditions weren’t great either with a bit of funk wind. I had a good deal of shaping to do and decided it was best to get that done. There was a small but rising wind swell and in the afternoon the Harbor looked like it may have had a wave but it still didn’t look great on the cam. The forecast is showing swell for the next week or so thus I’d rather save it for that.