September 2016 Surf Sessions
9-30-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 64
I have been back on a regiment finally and it feels good. I had a hunch the waves were going to be less then stellar and being it was Friday people were on it everywhere. The wind was on it too. New Jetty was crowded and shit. So was Emma. Given the choice I took the latter and made the most of the crossed up south bowls. There was easily a crew of 15 on it and the majority seemed to be bros. Guys were swarming everywhere. I was having a terrible surf till I snagged a decent set wave and somehow pulled a solid fs reo. I guess all it takes is one to give some satisfaction and good thing cause it was the only one worthwhile I got.
9-29-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 8
Miles Driven: 64
Well I knew the magical run of swell with perfect conditions had to end soon and today was just that day. I climbed the dunes at Ventura Harbor only to be greeted with blown out tidey weak ass mush burgers at New Jetty. There were only three guys on it and that is the least amount of crowd I have seen there. Out of time I paddled. It was about as weak and as bad as it looked. I got a few and then got out of there after all some rich schmuck needed me to make a bunch of over priced food for his birthday party this weekend. Good times.
9-28-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 47
Miles Driven: 64
Another day brought yet another run of silly stupid barrels down at the River Mouth. Thanks to some unexpected tropical action it was actually bigger then yesterday. I actually really needed a surf after some rather unpleasantness from the night before. I paddled just south of the River Mouth and immediately began getting shackers. It was a tad inconsistent and a bit more walled with a reinforced NW wind swell. When the good ones came they were good. The first half of my surf there were some fun ones and on the second half I somehow was lined up for every screamer that came my way. Seriously I have gotten more decent waves in the past five days then the entire summer. Let the barrel fest continue. Also yesterday I forgot to impart a strange little happening while I was surfing. Toward the end of my surf I ate shit doing a front side hit and landed on a small leopard shark. It freaked out, swarm around me then shot me a nasty shark stink eye before swimming away. Good times.
9-27-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 48
Miles Driven: 64
Once again I passed on a trip north in favor of south. The cam at Cstreet was still clean and showing plenty of surf. I had a really shitty nights sleep last night as a result of the ridiculous heat wave and of course the Santa Annas. Santa Barbara is a a micro climate zone as a result of the channel and the mountains and due to some NE winds it actually got hotter after 8pm, 97 F to be exact. Sleeping was out of the question and as a result I was not about to make the trek north on no rest. I pulled up to the harbor and the winds were dead. New Jetty had about 30 guys on, while the River Mouth was wide open with maybe fifteen spread out and there were still plenty of barrels. It was only about chest with occasional head plus set, but conditions were perfect. Unlike the previous two days the majority of the NW had dropped out leaving mostly south left offers and the long stretched close outs were non existent making nearly every wave a good wave. Stoked I ran down just south of the Mouth and the froth began. Some how my back wasn’t hindering as much as usual and I went to town. The whole surf was a rip and barrel fest. Man these past few days have been unreal.
9-26-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 64
Originally I had intended on going up north today. Upon checking the report Ventura still looked rather solid with the possibility of more Santa Anna’s. With that in mind I took the gamble and headed south. I got to River Mouth and the wind was sort of starting to come up out of the NW. Afraid that I made the wrong choice I quickly suited up since there were still a few gems despite the wind. I figured worst case scenario I could always float up to New Jetty. I paddled way south of the mouth where I found fun little sand bar with not a soul on it. The wind was messing it up a bit though still rip-able. Then about a half hour in the wind picked up out of the south east and it was officially barrel O’clock. I don’t know if it was the extra NW mix in the swell or what but it got way more hallow then the previous day. For a solid hour I got spit out of way more tubes then I could count, took my share of beatings too. Nothing lasts for ever and shortly the wind pulled back around onshore ending my day. By that time I was spent anyway. I got home just in time to get some laundry done. It was a good thing I did too cause as of October 1st they are raising the price of the dryer a fucking quarter. Why do prices go up all around me except for my salary??? Fuck California.
9-25-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 64
It was the first Sunday I have had off in over six weeks. I promised my girl we would spend the day together. Just as things go I wake up to the guise of the potential for Santa Anna winds to pick up mid morning down in Ventura and Oxnard. There was plenty of SW/NW combo swell in the water. I can’t remember the last time I scored good waves. I felt bad leaving my girl, but given the circumstance I had no choice. I offered to bring her along knowing what she would be in for she declined. I cruised south as fast as I could keeping an eye on the Oxnard airport wind conditions. Sure enough by 10 they had clocked around hard south east. As soon as I pulled up all I could see was white plums of spray coming off the tops of waves. It wasn’t as big as I would have liked only around chest to head with the occasional bigger set. It was clean and barreling. The crowd was heavy being it was Sunday and near epic conditions. One thing about River Mouth is that it can handle any crowd being one can always keep walking down the beach till he finds a peak to himself. I met up with Ryan and Dave in the lot and we cruised just south of the River Mouth. The first half of my surf was rather frustrating. I got lots of views though could not find my way out of the barrel to save my life. I was going to bail after my first drift and just go home to be with my girl in an attempt to salvage the morning when I saw a south sweep the entire beach. On that note I turned around and ran back down the beach for another drift. This time right off the bat I pulled in a came out of a small but fun left barrel. Then I snagged another two. I was sitting out the back and this bomb of a right came my way. I thought I was a little too deep and wanted to let it got. The entire line up started hooting at me to go. Rather then be a chump I turned and burned air dropping to the bottom then I stood tall in the barrel backside before pig dogging deep. I couldn’t see out and was about to bail when I decided to just hang on a little longer and sure enough I popped out. After that it was a barrel fest for the next hour. Just as the wind began to come up I lucked into the left tube of the day. Stoked I headed for home. By this time it was after two and I had a very unhappy girlfriend at home. On the way home back in Santa Barbara as I was about to exit the 101 this idiot in front of me had easily an 11ft SUP on the roof. It was wobbling a bit too much for comfort. Sure enough just as I thought the racks failed and this behemoth of a surf board was careening right at my car. I stomped on the gas peddle and just barely cleared the board. In my rear view mirror I saw it bound off the roof of the car behind me before setting down in the middle lane causing freeway pandemonium. Stand Up Paddles are even a nuisance outside of the water.
9-24-16 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 6
Miles Driven: 64
Today there actually were some solid south swell lines. It was probably the biggest surf I have seen in over a month. Definitely since my Mexico trip. I promised my boss I would pick him up and take him for a surf killing some of my own surf time in the process. We got to Ventura Harbor and it was solid, albeit a bit closed out. River Mouth looked like it had some real gems if one had the time to be choosy. I did not so I paddled New Jetty which seemed a bit more manageable and despite the crowd I saw a few lefts go by unridden. As soon as I got out there I realized the reason for that was the fact that the current was like a river. I got a few good ones right off the bat. Then a handful more guys and Pat paddled out making my ability to catch waves more challenging. Add my bad back into the mix and the session was pretty much over for me. It took me forever to get a last wave, which sucked. Then there was a ton so stupid traffic back into Santa Barbara and to top it all off I had an annoying day at work. At around six I got a text from Ryan that Emma Wood was sick. I hate fucking weekends. Fucking hate them. Also if anyone out there is a back specialist, or physical therapist, or chiropractor and wants to hook up a fellow surfer in pain please hit me up.
9-23-16 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 54
All the forecasts were point to it being a fun morning. Unfortunately all the wind from the previous night had torn up the channel pretty good adding tons of wonk to the waves. I was still hoping that Emma would come through yet again for me. Apparently lots of other guys felt the same way cause when I got there twenty guys were out and more suiting up to surf very weak, broken up, drained terrible Emma. My time was ticking and I was about to desperation paddle it when I decided to go back to Rincon where I thought I saw a solid set break up at Indy Left from the freeway. There were some waves except that the south was getting torn up by the NW wind swell and the light onshore wind. Still only two guys were out and I saw a few kill-able corners. I paddled only for the fact that I had drove. As soon as I did about 15 other guys showed up making the already terrible conditions worse. I should have just stayed home and masturbated.
9-22-16 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 54
I am really making a large effort at getting back on a regular surf regiment. There was plenty of new NW wind swell in the water on top of a little bit of south. I checked Rincon first hoping that the River Mouth would have some waves. It did, though rather weak small and wonky. From there I hightailed it Emma, Which was super solid chest to head high with bigger sets breaking off the toll both, north peak and Life guard tower. It was also packed with a who’s who in surfing in the 805 including Conner Coffin. I managed a few fun ones I was stoked with. I sort of wish I had the day off so I could have surfed longer.
9-21-16 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 54
Trevor and I had to be in early for a tasting and lunch pack out. Early in allows for early out. We decided to cruise south and get some waves since there was supposedly some new ESE tropical swell in the water. Stoked to have beat rush hour we noticed plenty of fresh swell lines stacked back to back like only a good hurricane swell can produce. Unfortunately the wind was on it fucking things up for most of the spots that would have normally have been good. Emma can handle most wind and swell thus we paddled. Virs and a few other Ventura pros were out doing their thing and we caught the tail end of their session. My back was hurting a lot making surfing less then easy. The first half hour I didn’t get anything. Then I had a few decent lefts, one tube and a right. After that the tide got too low and wind increased destroying what little offering there was out there. I almost had to paddle in conditions got so bad.
9-20-16 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 68
I ended up getting out of work earlier then expected and with some new NW wind swell and semi-light winds I decided to brave the rush hour traffic and head south in search of a wave or two. Of course there was an accident in Carp adding to the already shitty traffic. The tide was super low leaving most spots drained. I had a look at Rincon but that was too small. Emma was too drained and Ventura Harbor was all closed out and crowded. Over it I decided to head for the Strand in hopes that some of the NW was showing. Gabe had looked at in the morning and though a bit fat with the high tide saw a few. Sure enough the South end had some small but kill-able peaks. I surfed the bowl with a handful of guys and always for the most part had my own peak. I manged two really fun tubes that had me beginning to get excited about the coming winter north west season.
9-19-16 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Leo Carrillo, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 114
It was my first and only day off this week and I really wanted to surf. Gabe had to go down to Ventura to shape so we convoyed. Of course it was shit all the way down Ventura harbor which was also shit, just that there it was crowded and shit. There was some south in the water and I was hoping that a bit of it would be showing in Malibu. I knew for sure the winds would be better there. Sure enough it was clean as can be and about as small as possible as well. The six foot fat tide didn’t help either. I was banking on dropping tide Zeros to at least be palatable. It wasn’t. Finally I settle for very small, very tidey Leo with a healthy crowd on it. After a brief tantrum on the cliff Gabe and I paddled out. It was far from epic, but I managed to make the most of the inside high tide bowl and Gabe managed to get the wave of the day. Good times.
9-18-16 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
It was boys night out at the Wild Cat last night. My girl was in LA with her sister and friends thus Gabe, Biz and I tuxed up and did the same. The end result was a collective
black out. I don’t remember anything past around 12:30am and no one has any idea how we got home. Needless to say I didn’t feel much like surfing waist high shit.
9-17-16 No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
Last night Gabe finally cruised down after over a months hiatus. Needless to say we all hit the Wild Cat very hard. Everyone blacked out. I had to get up for work at 9. I heard there was some junky wind swell and small south at Emma. Whatever I’m still staking that paper.
9-16-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Conditions were the same smallish junk we have been dealing with the past few days. I had gotten a rather obnoxious tip from my last wedding and decided to take my girl for a night out on the town, dinner and dancing. We had a bit too drink, I blew the whole tip and had a blast. Come morning I was rather tired and almost went for a surf, but had spent the night at my girls place and forgot to pack my stick. The time it would have taken me to get home and get my gear would be too much to get a surf in after work.
9-15-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 64
Another day of lack luster south swell. Luckily I ran into my boy Angers on the dunes and he pumped me up to surf. As it turned out the surf was way more fun then it looked. For the first time in a while I was surfing rather well. We got about a solid half hour of fun in before the wind came up and ruined it. Still I got a few. This fall season needs to kick into gear soon. I need some real waves.
9-14-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 64
There was some new minor south in the water this morning with clean conditions, not to mention promise of a phantom tropical ESE swell. I cruised straight to the Harbor since there was nothing to be seen in the form of surf north. Though not big there was some fun looking chest high south lines running up and down the River Mouth with a light crowd on it. Ryan and I gave it a paddle just as the wind came up. The waves were a bit racy leaving not much room for much more then one big maneuver. Sadly it was the best surf I have had in the past few days since I got that little taste of Rincon last week. What a terrible summer and an even worse fall.
9-13-16 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
Miles Driven: 126
It was my first day off in longer then I can recount. I really wanted to surf. There was some lingering south swell in the water. Ventura was shit so I set my eyes on Malibu or Jalama. By the time I got my act together the wind went to shit down south. This time of year Jalama can be like a micro climate zone. Taking that chance I went north. Sure enough it was a beautiful day at the beach up there, sunny, warm and windless. Unfortunately the waves were waist to stomach high at best and very weak. None the less I walked down to Cracks and managed a few mush burgers. I had the entire place to myself thus I took my time and only grabbed the set waves. After my surf it was so pretty out I decided to enjoy the beach for a little while. I must say it was a most splendid day off.
9-12-16 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 64
I finally had an easy day. I still had to go into work, but it was just clean up and my own schedule. The buoys still had plenty south still on them and the report for Cstreet was 3-4 ft. Pumped I headed out for a surf. It was super small all the way down to the Harbor. New Jetty was crowded and weak, River Mouth closed out. I considering going to Malibu, but wasn’t to enthralled with any of the reports or cams. I went to Emma. It was terrible, but no one was out and I wanted to get wet so I paddled. It was as bad as it looked if not worse. I probably should have taken my chances with the close outs of River Mouth. At least I am glad I have not missed much with all my work lately. Its kind of nice to watch the paper stack for a change.
9-11-16 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
I could have got up to go surfing this morning. Last night after a very difficult and long week of work Bizarro, my girl and I cruised to the Wild Cat to celebrate. I had a look at the cam in the morning and it looked crowded and average at best. Over it I decided to enjoy a leisurely morning in bed with my chick. The rest of my afternoon was spent cleaning up after the weddings from Saturday.
9-10-16 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
I really wanted to surf, but one of my employees was a no show Friday causing my work load to get pushed behind. As a result I had to get to work by 9 am in order to finish prepping all the food and loading both van for the two rather obnoxious weddings I had to work. From what I heard the waves were average at best, windy and crowded.
9-9-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
Miles Driven: 54
All reports were calling for new south swell to be filling in. I got up and checked Rincon. There was a very inconsistent drained waist high left at indicator that was far from enticing. I proceeded to Emma which was also small and terrible. I was about to paddle when I saw about 15 guys show up and crowd the place. Over it and having a full day of work to focus on I bailed. I heard from Ryan that it came up for the afternoon, though it was rather crowded.
9-8-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
There was supposed to be new south filling in through out the day. At first light all of the cams and reports for my area looked knee high at best. I passed on it. Ryan said he surfed New Jetty mid day and found a few head high sets. I can’t wait to have a day off soon.
9-7-16 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
The NW swell that graced us yesterday all but dissipated and there was just some minor south. Ventura Harbor would have been the only place that had a wave and I didn’t have time for that with my busy prep schedule at the kitchen. Its been nothing less then ten hour days this week.
9-6-16 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 26
Finally I woke up with a tad bit of motivation after seeing a very healthy amount of NW swell, that’s right NW SWELL on the C-street cam. Stoked I got up and cruised south. I was shooting for Emma Wood, but on the way all my usual Rincon indicators were looking good thus I pulled off and had a look at the point. Sure enough though not big there were some fun waist to stomach lines gracing the point with a very light crowd. It was far from anything to get excited about, just weak inconsistent wind swell, but it was the first time this season that I have seen actual waves at Rincon. I decided it was a great day to get reacquainted with the place. I had fun. My back felt better, though a bit weak. I am going to have a real strengthening battle on my hands if I want to be in form for this winter.
9-5-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
More average waves, little motivation and lots, lots more work kept me out of the ocean this morning. At least I’m getting paid.
9-4-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Last night my girl, her dad and I decided to step out to the cat. I needed the release after being worked so hard. I slept in this morning and then had to clean up after the wedding and coordinate the prep for the next two coming this weekend. I heard there was some wind swell and actually checked the waves at Mesa Lane right before dark where there was definitely a weak waist to chest high wave. If there were not over twenty guys out I probably would have paddled the last hour of light. Instead I came home and caught up on some chores I was behind on.
9-3-16 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
I had two weddings to coordinate and work and one later in the night to attend. There was absolutely no time to go chasing waist high surf. What little time I did have to myself I decided to spend with my lovely girl friend.
9-2-16 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
More small waves and lots more work kept me at bay today.
9-1-16 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
After yesterday’s poor wave performance I decided to sleep in a little bit and get some rest. My boss popped in the kitchen with a grip of upcoming jobs and it looks like I am going to be in the thick of it for some time. From what I heard there was nothing to get excited about anyhow.