December 2013 Surf Sessions
12-31-13 AM Session: 2-4 ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 20
I wanted to surf Rincon, but the crowd got so bad I just couldn’t stomach putting on my battle armor. I met my boy Mike at Emma and we proceeded to car surf for a solid hour and half to no avail. Finally on a last ditch effort we decided to surf the outer reef at Solimar. there were four guys out, it was clean and very mellow. It was also lully and kelpy as fuck. As the tide dropped the wave got better and the kelp got worse. By the end of the session I could barely ride a wave it was so thick. I guess it beat not surfing.
12-30-13 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
When we got back to the car I checked my voice mail and Ryan was claiming Silver Strand. I called him back and he said he had just got out. Trevor had a few really good lefts. Overall I just couldn’t get it going on all day. I hate surfing all day and sucking at it. out and it was still fun chest to head high bowls all over the place. With that intel we decided to cruise and try our luck. We got there and it was way smaller then I had hoped and way more inconsistent. The south end was bombing but packed. Those sets seemed closed out and a weird angle. We surfed the middle of the beach where there were some mixed bowls. I had a few good ones right off the bat. Then I went into the deep freeze thanks to the lulls and the sets began to close
12-30-13 AM Session 2: 2-4+ft, Hobsons
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 9
Upon making the couple of 100 yard hike down the beach Trevor and I found ourselves at Hobsons. It was far smaller then we would have hoped and a lot weaker. We were there so paddled. I got a few fun lefts right off the bat. I always ride that that wave well. Then the crowd just kept coming till it got stupid. A few older agro guys showed up and totally ruined the atmosphere. Over it we adjourned.
12-30-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Kooks Peak
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
Emma looked the like the best option with the tide. Unfortunately it was packed to the gills with people on it. When I pull up to a wave and I don’t see at least one go by un-ridden I consider paddling someplace else. When I see every wave go with at least three guys challenging the guy on the peak I am over it and move on. That being the case I went back to Kooks since I saw a few lefts come in on that marginal reef with only three heads out. I hit up Trevor and we paddled. At first when I got out there it was just me, since the three who were out bailed. I had a few fun lefts and rights. Slowly but steadily the overflow pack caught up to me. By the time Trevor showed up it was fifteen strong, a very large number for that spot. Over it we decided to make the walk over to Hobson’s where we kept seeing a good left come in.
12-29-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 47
Another day of frustration and out of control crowds had me at Hollywood watching average offshore waves grind in on a less then desirable tide. It was dropping and there was hope of conditions getting very fun. Ryan and Gordo showed up and we paddled. Right off the bat I managed a few good barrels. I watched some lucky fucker get the left tube of the day. Then I watched Ryan get one. Meanwhile all I was getting was views. I vowed to stay out till I made a good left tube. I got a sick right screamer down the beach, but unfortunately the wind picked up out of the NW not allowing me to get my barrel. At least it was better then nothing.
12-28-13 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 9
My plan as futile of a plan as it was, I thought best to get a later start then usual in order to beat the crowds. Saturday afternoon is always more manageable especially if the gods were to grace me with a little bit of NW wind. I spent the morning with my girl friend and did some must needed work in my garden. Lindsay called me up and I had not heard from her in months thus was stoked to get a surf with her and catch up. Unfortunately my plan back fired and it was shit house packed everywhere. With the exception of Rincon, which was an easy 300 crowd,it was shit. In a last ditch effort I made a play for Hollywood since I heard that Gordo had got some there earlier. We missed the tide by about an hour and spend most of the session milking mush burgers into the closed out shore dump. I did manage three good lefts and got to catch up with an old friend. I guess that has to count for something.
12-27-13 AM Session: 2-4 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Just another day of terrible waves. I probably should have just surfed Rincon. Then again it looked pretty bad there when I checked it. I pulled up to New Jetty and saw a few pick and choose corners up and down the beach. Overall though it was mostly closed out. Looked like Lakey and a few other rippers were getting a few at the Wedge at South Jetty. That wave is a real bitch to surf backside when it is good, let alone when its marginal. I also suck a riding it. I jumped in just as the wind decided to come up and ruin it. I managed a left or two and one ok right. All and all I should have just went back up to Jalama again. Looks like more consistently bad waves for the weekend.
12-26-13 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
See Blog to be posted “Finding New Spots After All This Time”
12-25-13 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Talk about a Christmas Skunking. I car surfed all the way to Silver Strand. I should have taken my chances with the close outs of New Jetty. Ultimately I settled for tiny, shitty Emma Wood cause I was over the search. I think it is the worst Emma that I have ever surfed. The funny thing is I have said that so many times this season that each time I do I don’t think Emma can lower the bar any more. Then just like that she does. I was going to bail after my tenth wave that is how terrible it was. Trevor paddled out and I decided to keep him company. Lets face it I kill tiny crappy waves anyway. Later my girl and I went to Valencia to visit her Aunt for the holiday.
12-24-13 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Cobbles
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Another overly packed morning had me searching for something to surf without a heavy crowd. Ryan called and said he saw some good ones over at Cobbles and The Wall on his way home the night before. I was over at Emma anyway and gave it a look. As it turned out there was an ok wave out there with only five guys on it. By Cobbles standards, a wave that is usually just a racy walled close out it looked decent. We got out there just as the wind began to get on it a little bit. Still I managed to snag a handful of three turners. Ryan got the bomb of the day on his long board. Even in a spot that is as terrible as this one the crowd managed to find its way on it. You just can’t win. Later that night I made a very tasty Cioppino for my girl and I keeping my seven fish Christmas Eve tradition alive.
12-23-13 PM Session: 7-9+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
See Blog to be posted: “Finding New Spots After All This Time”
12-22-13 AM Session: 5-7+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
See Blog to be Posted “Finding New Spots After All This Time”
12-21-13 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 25
Talk about hear today gone tomorrow, but that is the reality of wind swell after all. The wind was off shore in Ventura so I decided to give the Harbor a look. Besides over crowded at New jetty it was also already too fat. I watched it for ten minutes and saw no one get a worth while wave. It looked like the Knoll or River Mouth could have been fun if the tide were lower thanks to the lingering late season south. I went back to Emma, which was crowded and small. The North peak was clogged with 15 guys. It looked slow and shitty there anyway. That peak is no bargain on a rising tide. The Reef or South Peak looked the best, but also had about seven guys tightly packed two of which were Dane and Virs. to Virs’ credit I saw him stick a sick full rotation bs air reverse the day before. For a guy that fat and out of shape that is something. It is a real shame cause the guy is a really good surfer and I am far from a Virs fan as you know. Imagine what he could have accomplished if he actually applied himself. I guess one could also say the same for me. I took my time in the lot considering it appeared those guys were almost over it. By the time I suited up and paddled the whole crew had bailed leaving me the peak pretty much to myself. It was small bowly lefts and I happen to rip the shit out of Emma when its like that thus I had fun. It was definitely worthy of an hour.
12-20-13 AM Session:2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
What an Emma Session! With the exception of it being a little bowly and shifty peak I have to say today was some of the best Emma I have surfed in months. It was solid chest to head with a bigger set here and there. There were a few barrels to be had even. It was just super rip-able and the crowd was light too, lefts, rights and straights galore. I had some real gems out there. I took my new board out finally after sitting on it for two months waiting for a friend of mine to do some art work on it that never happened. Over it and completely out of usable surfboards I took it back. I thought it was going to be a magic board, but I am going to have to say I think it is more of a moderate to good board, reliable at least. I have not had a magic one in a long time. Before the session I had a meeting with my boss which I thought was going to be us ironing out the details about me becoming the new sous chef. Turns out he just wanted to interview me for the position. INTERVIEW ME!!!?!! Are you fucking kidding me? I almost laughed in his face when he asked me: “What experience do you have that would allow you to be successful in this position?”. Seriously? I have worked in this kitchen for 5 years, worked every station, position and shift. Ridiculous. That people is how things work in Lisanti Land. After the sess my boy Mike and I met up for lunch and the Santa Barbara Shell Fish Co. out on the pier, who in my opinion make the best seafood in town. I followed that with a hair cut and some Christmas shopping. I went to see one of my co-workers from Westmont, she works at Macy’s and figured why not give the business to her. With her help I picked up a nice gift for my girl. This lady had to work till 2am. What kind of a fucked up world do we live in where a store needs to stay open till 2am for Christmas shopping. People need to get their fucking priorities straight in this life.
12-19-13 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hs
Waves Surfed: 27
I blew it. For whatever reason I am just not in sync with surfing the past few months. I should have taken a look at Summerland or just surfed Santa Claus, which although churned up was offering some fun looking side shore corners. I also was on the verge of pulling an El Cap mission as well. When I was at the light to the on ramp for the 101 I was torn on which way to go. I chose south just for availability of breaks. Where has my sense of adventure gone? I got to Rincon and it was tiny and not all that clean considering. There were a handful of people out there giving the trash a go. I was short on options at that point and just decided to paddle. River Mouth was too beat up and sectiony to make it worth a go. I sat in the high Cove and found a few sections all the way to the bottom of the point. Every so often a solid chest high one would roll all the way through. I was lucky enough to find about five of these. I was surfing well too. That is pretty much a giving considering it was small and terrible and that is what I dominate in. Then after about an hour I caught a runner and as I was coming through the inside I had to dodge all these groms completely ruining a terrible wave. There had to be about fifteen of them completely getting in the way of every wave. It was as if they had hatched from the reef and surfaced for the first time. Over it I caught one more slalom and called it a day.
12-18-13 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
I woke up and really needed a surf after yesterday. What I really need is a good surf get-away where all I focus on is surfing, maybe those days are over, I don’t know. I had so much pent up frustration I needed to let it or I was going to beat the piss out of the meter maid when he came down the block on his daily rounds. There was not much on the buoys except a minor south, the winds was a bit onshore and the tide a six foot high. Things were not very foreboding. I figured Emma was my best bet and the mood I was in anything would do. I sort of wanted to just do big hacks and airs anyhow. When I pulled up it looked like shit with about six heads on it. I sat and watched it for about ten minutes and then lefts started pour in, good lefts! I suited up and ran down knowing this was that Emma magic 45 minutes I have talked about here before. Sure enough for about half an hour or so I was snagged really fun waves. Then Trevor showed up and jinxed it. The place completely shut down and by the time I quit I was groveling knee high trash. I did manage an in and out little tube on my last wave. Beat the fuck out of not surfing.
12-17-13 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Well I thought I was going to get to surf the out going tide at Rincon, then something came up that kept me stuck in town all day. All I will say is that I am really saddened by the state of medical care in American and the fact that supposed medical professionals are not really all that professional at all. By the time I got to be able surf everything was drained out or crowded or both. Hobsons looked the best but it was very inconsistent and had like 15 heads on it. With all the aggression I had repressed earlier in the day I just knew in a crowded lineup I was going to pound someone if he pissed me off. I ended up just watching the sunset at Emma Wood with my woman and I must say it was a lovely sunset. Sometimes in life there are things more important then riding waves. Its rare but it does happen.
12-16-13 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 7
What stupidity. I should always trust my instincts. My afternoon plan was Pitas or Hobsons. Pat hit me up and claimed Pitas was small and I checked Little Rincon and that was tiny too. We decided to make a run for either Hollywood or Strand. On the way down Hobsons looked fun as shit from the 101. Hollywood had some bowls coming through and some racy lines. MacGill said he thought Strand was better. It was bigger, but way more crowded. There had to be over a 100 people surfing from the Middle to the North End. Sets were very inconsistent and the majority of the waves were either racers or close outs. I managed a decent tube on my first wave followed by a bunch of shit. I snagged a way overhead bomb on my last one, but was just out of sync and very under gunned thus I felt like I totally kooked it. I feel like I always blow swells this time of year. I think I would have rather sat in the crowd at Rincon. At least when I got a wave there it would have been a sick one.
12-16-13 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
The buoys showed plenty of WNW and with the high tide I was hoping for some Hammonds action. Of course it was flat there, cause we can’t catch a break in town ever these days. I went to Rincon and just from the cove I could tell it was going to be solid as I was greeted by a head high lined up five wave set. The crowd was about 80 but still very manageable. I went up top and did some work in the High River Mouth area. Lakey and my boy Antoine were out getting a few. I joined them. Right off the bat I finagled 4 really good set waves. Then feeling a little greedy I let two good ones go to the crowd. That was my fatal mistake cause ten minutes later the crowd doubled, thirty minutes later it tripled. By the time I went in the place looked like Lowers before an event. I still managed a few, but the sets were all kooked out. When I left both lots were full and the street was all parked out. That means there must have been at least 200 heads out. On a consistent swell that is do-able, but on a long period average west forget about it. Looks like I am going wave scavenging for the afternoon session.
12-15-13 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
I gave up my morning session to spend some quality time with my lady considering I had not seen her in a while. We slept in. I cooked a cool breakfast where I utilized roasted sweet potatoes and maple syrup for a splendid little side. Then I was all ready to cruise when the wind turned onshore. I figured I would just go fuck around at small Rincon. When I got there it was really small and hardly short board-able. It was not a totally loss I ran into my boy’s Ryan and Benny from Orange County apparently they both recently moved back up here. Ryan used to live on the couch here in the Palace. Way to hit a bro up. Pat hit me up and said he had just gotten out at Silver Strand and it was a bit drained up rip-able. I ran down there, but it was way smaller then I would have liked and a bit windy as well. I could have probably found something comparable along Sea Cliffs. On the way home it looked like Kook’s Peak was better then what I paddled.
12-14-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I was suppose to get a session in on the way down to Malibu, but unfortunately as always in this business time is poorly estimated and thus I was left with barely enough time to get to the event. The pay was good, I was helping out a friend and the people we worked for were really nice and appreciative of all out hard work. 12 hours later I found myself back in the Barb at the Wild Cat with my first drink in hand. Then I got a text from my girl that she got home so I bailed to be with her. Good times.
12-13-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
This morning was still pretty small from what I heard from Ryan. Not that it would have matter considering how fucked up I was anyway. Got to love the occasional Wild night out. I had to go to work today because of this new corporate policy that if you call out sick before or after a Holiday break you will forfiet your holiday pay. It was a bullshit easy day anyway so who cares. Oh and my general manager asked me to be sous chef and I think I am going to take it. Looks like the waves came up a little bit this afternoon so there should be a session tomorrow. Plus I am helping Trevor with a wedding in Malibu that is going to pay out some cash dollars!!!
12-12-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More super tiny conditions had me over this morning. Instead I took my car into the shop for some much needed servicing and to get a nail removed. about a g later it runs like a dream. I never had a car I loved as much as my civic. I didn’t even mind spending the cash. After that I went home and re-organized my hall closet and under my kitchen sink. WHAT AN EXCITING DAY!!!!!! Oh and yeah and it all ended with a night at the Wild Car in Fancytown Whooot!!!
12-11-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I might have been able to find some marginal trash at New Jetty early. After not getting to sleep till 3 am thanks to some 50 page essay written by a top economist about how the American economy is going to completely collapse in 1-2 years as the dollar gets phased out as the reserve world currency. When I woke up at 8 to waist high cold cstreet on the cam. I was over it. I covered my head and went back to sleep. When I finally got out of bed at 11 the wind was on it making bad waves worse and the nail in the coffin for me. I stayed home and got some needed organization of my room done. I finally set up my little desk area I made out of this gay little waste of space make-up corner table my love made me lug over here cause it belonged to her grandma. I hate sentimental shit, especially when its furniture, big and heavy. I turned it into my own little space that I must say I am rather happy with.
12-10-13 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 19
I woke it and it was freezing. The buoy had a bit more swell on it although not nearly what I had hoped. Figuring with the cold the wind would stay down I slept a bit longer. By the time I got down to the Harbor it was turning onshore and steadily rising. There was a semi-closed out wave coming in near the jetty and the right going back towards it was def do-able. I drove and had no real other options so I paddled. Of course as soon as I put on my suit the wind got hard. The funny thing was there was still like 15 guys out. Two years ago I would have beed by myself if I decided to surf that crap. I went for a Lisanti 20, but then 19 was a really good one the likes of which with the wind at full steed I was most likely not going to see again so I bailed. I had to work the midnight breakfast we do once a semester. It went off without a hitch.
12-9-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Last night I decided to do something rather interesting. I went out to the Wild Cat completely sober and stayed that way the entire night. After Friday’s inanities I kept things light, also I was hoping to surf this morning. Let me tell it is a completely different place when you are playing with a full deck. I felt like I was at a circus or a freak show or both. At one point I looked over on the dance floor and saw a midget, a tranny, a guy in a wheel chair and two lesbians in a dance floor getting served by some black gay dude. I could not believe my eyes. All I can say is I am glad I have been very intoxicated all these years out there. I woke up this morning and it was freezing as has been the unfortunate norm lately around here. I checked the cams, buoys and reports and all was shit. I tucked back under the covers and went to sleep till I had to work. I was planning on talking to my boss about the Sous Chef position open, but I am still not so sure its the right move for me. It seems to me all I would be doing is taking on a whole lot more responsibility, have to deal with way more bullshit, and work ten times harder for about a 5% raise. I don’t know. What I do know is right now when shit goes south in the kitchen I may get yelled at for it, but in the end it is really not my problem. If I get promoted to sous chef then it will be my problem. Any thoughts you folks have on this are more then welcomed. Also the hours are going to suck making surfing as much as I do a near impossibility.
12-8-13 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
Talk about a morning riddled with bad luck. First off I woke up and it was 42 degrees out an unheard of temperature for southern California. What the fuck do I live in Nebraska or something? I rolled to Emma Wood in the hopes of scoring some decent wind swell. Instead it was weak as fucking hell and crowded with a bunch of weekend yahoo’s. I paddled since I saw plenty of waves going by un-ridden. Before I got in the water I noticed a nail in my tire. Now I have to get that fixed and hope it doesn’t fall out and leave me with a flat over the next few days. Then I get out there and I am getting a few ok rides, just warming up. I go for this right double up only to run into some dick head from Orange County riding an old school long board. At Emma Wood? Why the fuck would you waste your time on a wave that is clearly for a short board when there are three really fun long board waves less then a mile north or south of the place. The dude destroyed my board completely ripping my right fin and plugs out, thus ending my session. Then he tries to give me shit about how he was on the wave first and was going left. Its easy to be on the wave first when you catch it way outside before it breaks. At Emma most of the time waves come in looking like a left and then are a right when the hit the inside sand bar or visa versa. I guess you have to be a local to understand that. Fuck, all the meat ball had to say was “sorry dude”. I didn’t even care about the board it is an old one anyway. All I wanted to do was have a complete session. Fuck crowds, surfers suck! I am going to the Wild Cat to drink this one off.
12-7-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More flatness and a night in Fancytown led to a late morning today. It was still freezing too. Bizarro and I decided to Rumpleman shots all night last night. Lets just say I was more then hung over today. Looks like some waves for the morning.
12-6-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It was fucking freezing when I woke up this morning. It had to be like 40 degrees out. I checked the cam and it was tiny. Over it I crawled back under the covers. Weather report says it might snow tomorrow. That’s it, I’m moving. Flat and snow? I might as well be in New Jersey with a better view.
12-5-13 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 35
Talk about a froth and a grovel. Believe it or not the waves were the best I have seen them in days at Emma. The great California flat spell continues and I keep fighting back by groveling it anyway. I got down there and Trevor was siting in the parking lot. I saw a few fun looking tiny bowls and talked him into the paddle. Ryan pulled up with his new long board and joined us as well. Turns out although small it was tons of fun. I tucked into a tiny larrel and as I was coming out this kook ass dude was coming at me on the right and decided instead of kicking out he was going to kick his board at me. It hit me in the chest and I lost it and yelled at him. His response was “Its not my problem”. Angry I splashed him and said “I can make it your problem”. Trevor came down the line on the next waves and looked at the kid and said “What? You getting in my way now”. He paddled away toward Ryan who scowled at him. That was the last time we had any shit from him. Don’t show up at Emma and give a dude shit who surfs there all the time when you never do please. The rest of the session was rather enjoyable. At work we were super short handed forcing me to work the salad section and then stay till ten washing dishes. Yeah!!! Now if you don’t mind I think I am going to join Bizarro and the gang for a drink at the Wild Cat.
12-4-13 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 28
I took lots of motivating to get me into the water this morning. It took just as much to even leave Santa Barbara. All conditions pointed to cold, windy, small fat garbage. I really did want to surf and since I had a bit of money so wasting gas wasn’t an issue I figured what the heck. Considering the tide was a 6.8 ft high at 9:30 I was in no rush to get down there. My goal was to get in the water around ten and hope the dropping tide would pan out. Emma was super small and windswelly when I pulled up. I saw a few that were grovel-able. It looked like fun Florida. What the fuck has happened to California. I remember years where I would not even entertain half the surf that I have endured this year. Talk about some bull shit. I had to work today thanks impart to this big Christmas dinner we do ever year. Basically we serve all you can eat prime rib, mahi mahi, risotto, and an assortment of other good stuff. Its a pretty great event if you don’t have to cook for it. I spent 6 hours making fruit platters, then another two on the risotto and a burre blanc suace that came out pretty dank. I didn’t get a break. My only solace was the fact that I got to bring home a shit load of leftovers. Come winter break in a week I will have plenty of frozen prime rib to enjoy. Oh and I get to work the next seven days straight with out over time. Lucky me…
12-3-13 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Of course the one morning I was not in a rush my girl was sound asleep when I woke up not trying to bother me to stay in. It’s also always when the waves are down to. If I only have an hour to surf and its epic that is when she is on my back to stay in. I can count on that every time. I rolled to New Jetty figuring it would be my best bet. No one was out and it was very swampy with the out of hand 6 foot high tide. Ryan met me and we decided to paddle figuring it would get better. I had a few but between the awkward flat sections, back wash and cold water I pretty much kooked the whole session.
12-2-13 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Woood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
I woke up after a shitty nights sleep. I just couldn’t get comfortable. I think I was feeling a bit sore after all of the surfing the past few days. Fuck after this year I have definitely lost my stamina. I forced myself to go look for something to ride despite getting a late start. That is the problem with waking up next to a beautiful woman every morning, it makes leaving to surf sub par waves rather difficult. I have been feeling really good about my surfing lately and wanted to keep the momentum going. I knew the Harbor and Strand were the best call considering conditions. All there was time for was Emma. I got there and it was tiny. The lines were clean, crowd right and the 45 minute high to low push was about to hit. Trevor pulled up and we paddled. Although a total G.I. Joe session I had a good time despite the lack of size. At the end of the day that is all that really matters anyway.
12-1-13 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
West and I headed south for one last session together before both of us had to go back to the reality that is our day jobs. The buoy had some remnants of the weekend swell and I was hoping the small swell Hawaii just had may have began to show. I was wrong about both. Emma was small, and crowded, but conditions were perfect and it seemed everyone was kooking it anyway. I am sure the Harbor and Strand were better. There was no time for that. We paddled and I managed a grovel froth and had a good time despite the minuscule waves. As I was about to leave Trevor showed up and its always good to see my main partner in grovel come down to take part in the suffering. Looks like a small pulse for tomorrow. Pumped to keep the momentum going.
so much for retiring from the SB party scene….
Take the Sous Chef position, don’t fuck up. Won’t you get more hours too like during the summer and shit?
already decided not to take it. It doesnt make sense for me too. the pay wont be enough and the bull shit great. The kitchen has changed a lot since you worked there. It is no longer what it used to be
I lied I took it
Nice queer corner.
You wish you had such a bad ass little corner with rad surf photos of yourself, a couple of light house miniatures and a wall of busted ass surf boards. Yeah I know why don’t you come down to SB and jizz all over it this way it could be a real queer corner. FAGOT!!!!!
Fagot. Is that French?
looks like when we surfed strand before going to to Angers’ and insulting pie lady.
yep pretty much although I think it was a little better the day pie lady met her match. should of fucked her you know that flabby ass Mexican husband of hers wasnt giving it to her good
She will cheat one day, use her pussy to climb the ladder of life.
I just had a thought…So if she is glueten free but she sucks some guys dick who is not can she swallow cause technically that semen is not gluten free….Hmmmmm….Dirty fucking slut. Bet she is taking in the ass by a black guy as you are reading this.
the gluten would be broken down into the amino acids and then they would be remade into the proteins in the sperm. Gluten problems are basically like lactose intolerance, they lack the enzyme to be able to process it.
UCB pie lady story
I think that is French. let me ask JP about it…
I think the pie lady story is on here. It might be thanksgiving blog 2011 or in the surflog.
I am wrong, no where to be found.
Well then I think it will have to be told
Dude for some reason I feel totally out of sync with surfing this past winter as well. When I’m surfing, I’m not surfing that well, and I keep making bad judgments about where and when to surf. I can’t figure out if the waves suck and therefore are only good for short windows of time, or if I just am blowing it, or a combination of the two.
Glad I am not the only one. For me its been all of the above and the crowd factor. Cause there has been so few waves this year when it does come every Tom, Dick, Harry, Jane, Billy Kook, Valley Bob get on it too. Its been like the fucking east coast. Everyone bails on everything when a swell is predicted and no one is over it cause there are so few waves. Down here the swells have been coming in so strange that a lot of the over flow spots just are not happening. Whatever, atleast we are surfing right?
Where is this “Still Finding Spots” blog?
Oh something fucking happened when I posted it. I wrote it on my phone on the way to Valencia and I posted it from there. It was the first time I ever tried it and for whatever reason it didnt post and the code got all fucked up for the post. I am in the process of posting a new, a better one ever. Look for it by late tonight PST
sorry 😦
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