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Archive for December, 2010

I was not going to write a  blog tonight but then I figured it would be the last blog of the year and felt I ought to write something in celebration, New Years Eve being my favorite holiday of the year and all.  I used get pretty gnarly on this wonderful night of drunken celebration, this year especially since it is bringing us just a year shy of the end of the world.  Now I would like to say that I am going to party all night and wake up in a puddle of my own piss and vomit.

Unfortunately that is most likely not going to happen considering Im in South Florida visiting my parents , have a 8am flight back to SB in the morning and dont really know where the scene would be here or even if there is one.  All probability really points to me getting trashed and walking to the weak looking sports bar across the street for the bells, before retiring home.  Whatever, I party like its New Years Eve on a Monday sometimes.  My time will come.

I thought I would take a moment to write the last UCB of 2010 and the winter quarter.  Now this is not the double points blog.  There was no topic suitable for such accolade so I canned it once again.  Kooky Kyle wins sending in his request via text message last night and though not official I think he has taken the quarter as well.  He asked me what I want to be remembered for after I die.

This was a thought provoking question.  I spend most of my brain power mulling over stupid shit yet this topic never really came up.  Well after a shit Florida wind chop surf session (see the surf log for more on that) that gave me plenty of time to consider the topic here is what I found. 

First off I want everyone to remember what an asshole I am.  I know funerals and remembrance always makes even Hilter look like a great guy in death, but lets not forget some of my weaker moments.  The fact that if you invite me to a party at your house I will show up with atleast ten of my friends and we are more times then not going to wreck the place.  I will sleep with your girl friend if she gives me the opportunity, most likely your mother, sister and grandmother as well.  I dont have a great grasp on the word “wrong”. 

Remember that I was there for you.  No, I definitely missed the wedding you had me as the best man for because I got drunk the night before missing my flight.  Yeah if you need me for something on a certain date odds are I will flake on it.  But when your darkest hour of necessity comes and there is no one else to help Chris Lisanti will get your back.

Lastly I had a great mother fucking time.  There is no doubt about it when I get into the ground it will be after a life well lived.  My whole life since I was born has been about fun.  Sure I bitch all the time, thats what I do.  Im a whiner.  The bare truth is I ring every last drop out of every second of every day I am breathing.  That my friends is what I want to be remembered for and what I want everyone else to emulate.

Happy New Year

This is exactly how I want to remembered right here!

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I don’t really know what is going on the with the weather this year but in the last two weeks I found myself right smack in the middle to rather unusual weather phenomena.  Last week I was home in California just starting my cozy little three week winter break vacation.  Friday the 17th was my last day and also what became the start of a six day monsoonal like rains and wind. When all was said and done, over 28 inches of rain later, the warm sunny California weather I moved there for returned. Conveniently the morning I had to catch a flight for cold dismal New Jersey.

 

It was not so bad; the storm brought fun waves and light crowds thanks to a combination of shitty weather and near toxic water quality.  Sure it would have been fun to enjoy some sun and out doorsy type adventures before traveling to frigid weather that would for sure have me cooped up inside, but tis how things work out at times.  I caught my plane and headed back east for the Holiday’s.

 

Christmas was fun.  I realized I like my family when I only see then once a year.  Nostalgia is always great in small doses. Went out Christmas night visited with some old friends, got faded (see Ohh that Nick the Kook blog), who could ask for more.  So far so good.  I had other visits and odd ends to tie up in the remaining two days I would be in town for.  The trip was a quick smash and grab job.  The smaller the increment the more likely I am to come back to this shit hole.

 

Then the mother fucking snow came.  A little taste of snow I though might be cool.  Its been years since I have seen snow.  Maybe one inch or so, that could have been festive even.  21” fucking inches!!!!!!!!!  Are you kidding me, one of the biggest blizzards in New Jersey history.  What are odds?   In Lisanti Land I guess pretty fricken good.

 

My back injury finally worked in my favor for a change allowing me to slink out of any shoveling and there was a ton of it my friends.  Not only was there the drive way but since the town neglected paving the streets (as it turns out two out of the three plows possessed broke down in an vain attempt at clearing the night before) my parents in earnest to get out to the airport tomorrow decided to shovel the street as well.  Ironically the plow came by a few hours later.  Patience is a virtue my friends.

 

As it stands now looks like Im on a plane to Florida at 10 am tomorrow as planned. Time will tell how that goes. The last time I was in New Jersey I lacerated my foot to the bone on a knee high wave and vowed never to come back.  Two years later I give the place a second chance and it dumps more snow on me then I have ever seen in my life.  New Jersey I get the point, you don’t want me here.  Don’t worry I don’t have any plans to come back soon.

 

If I missed anyone on this visit Im truly sorry.  I was very eager to catch up with so many different people.  The sand in the hourglass has just about dropped.  Maybe some other time, can’t tell you when that may be.  Those of you whom I missed and you know who you are will always be welcome to visit out west where we may get earth quakes, wild fires, crazy mud slides and toxic water, but one thing I can guarantee is that there wont be any snow, unless you want to go find some.  And anyone who has come out can attest there will always be good times.

My sister Val standing next to a five foot high snow drift.

Those black things in the background are cars buried up their roves in the street

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This week makes a victor out of Kooky Kyle who proposed I write about my favorite Nick the Kook moment.  Now the problem with this is there are virtually hundreds of them and all are pretty classic.  Too torn between which was my favorite (heck it could be its own monthly segment here) I decided I would just write about the shit show he was last night at the bar.  I would not call it “the best of Nick the Kook” but I got a kick out of it nonetheless.  Nick gets a half point since this blog is a bit at his expense, not that I care, but I like Nick and feel he deserves something for the inspiration.

 

Before I begin let me spend a few lines to introduce Nick the Kook because he has always been a popular character in this blog but since the move to surfingruinedmylife.net besides winning a few UCBs and the oddball comment he has yet to star in an actual blog.  He is going to make his way out to Santa Barbara for a ten day span starting Jan 5th so Im sure you will hear a lot more of him.

 

I first met Nick about 7 years ago when he was like 13 or something.  I had happened to paddle out at Brown Ave in Spring Lake (currently The Pipe) at the time I exclusively surfed Manasquan and Sea Girt very rarely making to Spring Lake and especially Brown Ave where a year prior a meat head surfer kicked my ass on the beach for back paddling him.  Just so my California readers know in a New Jersey line up altercations will most times go to the beach.  That is an entire different blog or sets of blogs altogether.

 

I happened to paddle out at Brown Ave to surf this shitty left all by myself.  I was out for no longer then twenty minutes when this scrawny kid showed up out of nowhere on a long board was super pumped.  We got to talking and he was interested in my travel and contests.  I guess he loosely knew me by reputation.  After that I did not see him again for over a year.

 

I took a job managing a small upcoming surf shop in Spring Lake and Nick was part of this cult following of groms who hung out there, most of whom I today have come to call my closest of friends.  Nick is one of those special people in life who are not afraid to throw caution to the wind with very little fore thought, basically my kind of man.  Whether it is getting staples in his head while pulling into double up close outs, lacerating his foot slipping on sea weed or loosing his teeth in a freak drunken piggy back ride accident you can always be sure if some great mishap of pure stupidity occurs Nick the Kook will be at the root of it.

 

As some of you know I made a long awaited trip back to NJ for the holiday to see my family I have not been in New Jersey for two years and with my family for Christmas in four.  After spending the entire day being intoxicated while visiting my family Nick made me an offer to cruise to the bar with him and spend my evening being intoxicated with friends.  Who would I be to turn down a night out at the bar?

 

I get there and Nick, Mauriello, Beesley and Bojangles among many others were enjoying a beer.  I soon joined in.  We are all shooting the shit when Nick proclaims that he does not drink heavy anymore while at the same time ordering his third beer.  Keep in mind that Nick was my ride home and let me stress the word “was”.  After that Nick cruised around the bar and I lost track of him for about an hour, most of which time I spent in an attempt to order drinks from the world’s slowest bar tenders.  I finally got my drinks and was making my rounds shaking hands of old friends and acquaintances when Nick turned up completely smashed.

 

John and I were astounded how he went from relatively sober to stone drunk in under an hour.  “Some people bought me shots” spoken incoherently was his answer.  I wish some people bought me shots I was way to sober for his shenanigans.   Then I spent the night pleasurably following Nick and his antics around the bar.  It was like a game of drunken “Where’s Waldo”, plus he was wearing this bright green shirt allowing him to stand out a little.

 

Every time I caught eye of the kid he was slouched over, mouth open and droopy eyed.  Then I observed him at the bar looking to get another drink.  My intention was to walk over stop him but then he offer to buy me a drink and my asshole inclinations took over thus I ended up with a beer.  As soon as the kid got his brew he was on the move once again and out of my sight.  Sometimes he popped up groping the occasional girl or sloppily hitting on another.

 

I had a ball watching the guy.  At one point I searched for him for twenty minutes only to have him pop up out of no where, say some incoherent thing to me and then walk out the door.  I never saw him again that night.  Good thing I always have a back up plan.  People used to always say that I should have my own reality show but I think one of Nick would be far more entertaining.

Nick the Kook in one of his finest moments spring 2010

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Tell me this does not look amazing, even a blind man can see how exquisite they are.

Apple Cobbler Cups

This is a dessert that I am going to take credit for inventing although Im sure some one has done it prior.  What I mean by a Chris Lisanti original is that I got the idea for it with out any previous musings.  What is an Apple Cobbler Cup you ask?  Only the greatest dessert ever that is easy to make and can be ready to eat in less then three hours.  Basically they are personalized apple cobblers with an oatmeal cookie crust about the size of a cup cake.  If your stuck on what to bring to the table this holiday season The Apple Cobbler Cup just may save the day.  Trust me all your friends and family will think your quite the savvy cook and since just about no one reads this blog you can even take all the credit for it.  I wont be mad; I promise.  I made these guys for Thanksgiving and it stole the show.

Total Cost  – $8.50
Feeds – 24 people

Ingredient List:

  • Granny Smith Apples – 4 (cut into Small bite size triangular pieces)
  • Lemon Juice – 5 oz
  • Sugar – 2 ½ Cups
  • Cinnamon – 1 Tablespoon
  • Butter – 16 oz
  • Flour – 1 1/3 Cup
  • Baking Powder – 2 ½ Teaspoons
  • Raisins – ¾ cup
  • Nutmeg – Teaspoon
  • Milk – 1 cup
  • Egg – 1
  • Vanilla – 1 Teaspoon
  • Salt – pinch
  • Oat Meal Cookies – 1 ½ Cup (crumbed)
  • Almonds – ½ cup Roasted

 

Step 1: Prep ApplesPeeling your apples is your call.  Personally I like to leave my skin on.  If you decide to leave skin make sure to clean the apples thoroughly.  Also any type of apples can be used I prefer Granny Smiths, but if you notice in my sample picture I used Macintosh Apples because that is what I had in my fridge at the time. Cut apples into bite size triangular pieces, keep in mind it is going into a cup cake shell.  In a medium mixing bowl add the lemon juice and mix with about a cup of cold water and ½ cup of sugar.  Place cut apples inside bowl, cover and let soak in refrigerator for at least three hours.  I leave mine over night.

Step 2: Mix all Dry Ingredients – In a large mixing bowl combine sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, flour, baking powder, Raisins, Salt.  Drain Apples from Lemon water in step 1 and add them to mixture as well.  Blend together.

Step 3: Mix Wet IngredientsIn a small mixing bowl combine Egg, Vanilla and Milk.  Add to mixture from step 2 and blend till you have a batter like consistency.

Your finished mix.

Step 4: Melt ButterIn a small boiling pan melt 16 oz of butter (3 sticks).  Grease two pans of 12 count cup cakes with butter or cooking spray.

Step 5: Fill Cup CakesCrumb up 1 ½ cups of Oatmeal Cookies (about 8-10) and fill each cup with just under 1 inch of cookie crumbs.  This will be your bottom.  Equally disperse the butter throughout all 24 cups.  Top off all cups with completed apple mixture from step 3. Leave about ¼ inch of space in each cup for growth.

Filling your cups.

Step 6: BakePreheat oven to 325 degrees F.  Bake for around 55-60 minutes.  Top should look cake like when down. Let cool in fridge for about an hour before serving.

This is what your baked cups should look like.

Step 7: Prepare AlmondsEither smash up ½ cup or so of almonds or use prepackaged pieces.  Melt 2 oz of butter with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a small roasting pan.  When melted add almonds, stir then bake at 350 degrees F for eight to ten minutes till Almonds are browned.  Keep a close eye because they can burn up pretty fast.  Add to the top of your cobbler cups to finish them off.

The Roasted Almonds

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Fuck grammer!   Im mother fucking over it.  Grammar, just in case you thought I did not know how to spell it right, the misspell was put in to prove my point.   Truthfully its not Grammar as a whole that makes me angry, no.  Its those little lines used to show possession or conjunctions, apostrophes.  Why should I have to put one after the “n” in cant, can’t.  I mean every fucking English speaking person knows what I mean.  Doesnt, oh wait Im sorry “Doesn’t” and while Im at it “I’m” too.  Its (It’s) madness all the extra key strokes it takes to properly use those half penis symbols.   Keeping this blog afloat takes up enough of my time as it is.  If I have to add all those extra key strokes as a result of apostrophes its not going to work.  Its your choice HowsurfingruinedMyLife.net or apostrophes.

But guess what; its not your choice at all because this is Lisanti Land and I dont give a fuck about you.  That being the case there will be no apostrophes here and I may just give up on commas too since I have just about had it with them.  If my lack of use of apostrophes makes your time here not pleasurable then you can just find some other form of entertainment.   May I suggest masturbation. It always entertains me when Im bored and even when Im not.  Sometimes I even go in the bathroom and masturbate after sex, but Im also not fit to live amongst mankind.

 

Its people like this that are the problem. Damn Grammar psychos

Apostrophes are evil the less we use them less havoc they can create.

I think I may be the cause of the deaths of a lot of kittens.

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Ginger Bread – How to build your very own Ghetto Fabulous Ginger Bread Abode.

It can’t be Christmas with out the construction of a ginger bread house.  There is nothing I find more enjoyable about the holiday season then spending a few good hours in an attempt to build a beautiful confectionary structure that ends up coming out like a run down shanty.  But its my ginger bread shanty and that is all that matters.  No matter how ugly it looks it tastes delicious.  Ginger bread can also be used for cookies as well. Follow this recipe and all your ginger bread hopes and dreams will be realized.

Total Cost – $10.85
Feeds 4-6 people

Ingredient List:

  • Dark Brown Sugar – 1/3 Cup
  • Vegetable Oil – ½ Cup
  • Egg – 1
  • Molasses – 2/3 Cup
  • Ginger – 1 Teaspoon (Ground)
  • Salt – ½ Teaspoon
  • Baking Powder – 3 Teaspoons
  • Flour  – 3 ½ Cups
  • Assorted Candy
  • No stick baking spray
  • Frosting
    • Shortening – ½ Cup
    • Powdered Sugar – 20 oz
    • Salt – Pinch
    • Vanilla Extract – 1 Table Spoon
    • Milk – 1/3 Cup

 

Step 1: Mix Ginger Bread BatterIn a large mixing bowl combine Dark Brown Sugar, Vegetable Oil, Egg, Molasses, Ginger, Salt, Baking Powder, Flour till you have a dough like consistency.  When well blended it should be dark brown.

This is the color and consistency your finished dough should have.

Step 2: Spread Dough in to baking panPreheat oven to 350 Degrees F.  Spray non-stick baking spray in baking pan 9” x 13”.  Spread dough evenly through out.  For cookies you should flatten your dough to be around ½” for a house 1/3”.  This recipe will be enough ginger bread for a small house, double or triple depending on size of structure you wish to create.  If you are going to make your cookies from cutouts be sure to cut shapes prior to baking.  The same goes for intricate house projects. If you are building a standard house like I do then you can do your cut outs after baking although I still find doing it before is easier.

Step 3: Bake Ginger BreadPlace pan into the oven and bake for 10 minutes for cookies, 13-15 minutes for a house.  For cookies you should have a soft feel to your ginger break for house it should be rather hard.

Step 4: Make FrostingFrosting is not only for making faux snow decoration but is also the mortar that holds your house together.  It will be the decoration for your cookies as well.  In a large mixing bowl combine all dry ingredients (powdered sugar, salt) and mix with shortening.  Cube up shortening prior to adding to mixture.  Mix till you have formed little balls with both sugar and shortening.  Add Vanilla Extract and slowly add milk till you have an icing consistency.  Blend with electric mixer if possible or elbow power will do as well.

Your finished icing.

Step 5: Build and Decorate Your House/CookiesIf your just doing cookies then your pretty much done here.  Use the frosting and your pick of candy and decorate the heck out of them.  If your doing a house your work has just begun.  Take a piece of cardboard an adequate size to accommodate your house and cover it with aluminum foil.  This will be the property for your home.

 

Next get your pieces in order.  It is very important to use some type of pattern for both your roof and house pieces to make sure it comes out even otherwise you will end up with a crooked house.  You pieces depend on the house you intend to build.  For a basic house you will need two isosceles triangles for the roofline and two rectangles for the roof top.  Then another two rectangles for the sides of the house and two squares for the front and back.  Its best to figure out some type of scale before starting.  This is if you want perfection, but if your impetuous like myself you can just wing it and see what happens.  I find this makes some of the most comical houses.  Use the icing to hold your pieces together and glue your house to the cardboard.  The icing will also hold your candy to the house as well.

A small house circa 2004

A Ginger Bread Monstrosity circa 2005

Small house with a Tree shaped cookie

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Before I get into this week’s UCB I have a bit of an announcement to make.  As everyone knows there are only two more Thursdays left in the fall quarter.  As of right now the race is pretty tight between I think three people and there a few trailers in there as well.  This quarter in addition to the two more blogs up for grabs I am going to put up a chance at a bonus double points blog to be written on the 31st. So here is the deal the topic for this one has to be something really special or I wont write it.  I will allow an unlimited amount of entries for it.  With double points it could be the difference between a victory or not so get busy.

 

That being said this has been I believe the most successful UCB quarter ever and I would like to personally thank everyone for participating.  This week Kooky Kyle takes the win with the topic “what goes into the perfect surfboard quiver”.  I feel that this topic comes a sort of mystery, most surfers having no idea what type of boards are appropriate for them.  I being a rather credible source on the issue thought I would shed some light on the confusion.  (For those who may question my background I spent nearly eight years of my life working in surf shops, ten doing ding repairs and about six as a psuedo professional surfer)

What Should I ride?

Tool Box

A quiver is a toolbox, you put the tools in that are necessary for the job.  This is a theorem that for years I did not hold true to just as a result of pure ignorance. I will elaborate.  When I was 18 my principle short board was a 6’2 x 18” x 2” Squaretail with so much rocker there was not flat point in the board.  Then I had a groveler 5’8 fishy thing and finally 6’10 pintail gun.  I mainly surfed only NJ.  The short board and the fish were fine but the large gun for a kid who barely was pushing 130lbs (heck Im still only about 135) was a bit ridiculous especially in a wave scene like NJ.

 

The only reason I owned that board was because I thought I needed a big board for when the waves got sizable and I was just copying what I saw in the magazines.  The same could be said for my short board, which was way too big for me as well.  Like I stated earlier I did not know any better.

Your Perfect Board

 

My Perfect Board

 

 

Before we get into the quiver, a group of boards, lets talk about your own personal perfect board.  This is the corner stone of everyone’s quiver and with out an understanding of this board, building the perfect quiver is nearly impossible.  All you will end up with is a collection of trash.  The perfect board is a surfer’s go to board for any conditions.  It is the surfboard that if you were stuck on a deserted island and left with only one board you would choose.  Its your all around short board or long board depending on what you ride.

 

It took me years to get this board right and I am still refining it.  Technically one always should because as your surfing changes, the waves you ride change and your body changes over the years so should this one.  Im sure when I am fifty I wont be physically able to ride what I do now.  For me this board is 5’10 x 18 1/8” x 2 1/16” squash tail tons of rocker.  I have had plenty of success with this template for the last six years.  Many people comment that I ride too small of boards but then they forget that I have not gained any significant weight since I was 21.

 

Back east I rode my boards with less rocker to fit the erratic flat spots and condition changes, but when I moved to the west coast where the waves are more conform I found more success with fuller rocker out lines.  Obviously if you weight 185lbs and are 6’1 you should not be riding my 5’10 you would most likely want a 6’1 or 6’0 a bit wider and a bit thicker to accommodate your size.

 

Same thing goes for ability as well.  If you are the same size as me but have only been surfing for 3 years then my board wont work for you either.  Once again you might want something a bit thicker, wider and longer with much less rocker.  Your quiver needs to suit you first and foremost.  Years ago we believed that everyone should ride the same board regardless of your size or ability; since then we have all been enlightened.

Building Your Perfect Quiver

 

Surfboards are not cheap and getting the right ones can be an expensive headache of trial and error.  It took me nearly ten years to get a quiver Im happy with.  First off a surfer should always have two of this perfect board as described above because surfboards are very fragile and break and ding all the time.  There is nothing more frustrating to me then riding a board Im not happy with when the surf is firing because I broke my favorite short board.  If I have a duplicate in my quiver then I can just pull this one out and go to town.

 

I personally keep three copies of this board in my quiver, but I surf a bit more then your average person even now with my shitty full time job.  The next board that should be considered is a step up.

The Step Up

 

One of my step ups

 

 

Now your step up should be geared to the waves you want to ride.  I personally hate big waves.  Once it gets more then double overhead I don’t really have all that much fun.  After that size it always feels more like survival then surfing.  My step up is a 5’11 x 18 ¼ x 2 1/8 round tail with lots of rocker.

 

This board is only a little bigger then my all around short board but a bit wider and thicker for paddle.  This is the board I got to when things get dicey on my short board.  I also keep a 6’1 x 18 x 2 rounded pin tail for macking beach break.  This is my barrel board.  I have made some of the most ridiculous hair raising tubes on this shape.  A barrel board is one that should be shaped bit more narrow and thinner then your normal short board.  It should also contain a round tail or pin tail combination and be 2-3 inches bigger then your normal short board.

 

The barrel board is designed with one purpose, getting shacked.  This board should be able to hold a rail in the steepest sections the waves through at you.  It is also the board you must rely on in the most critical of moments.   Basically your step up board should be what you ride those hand full of days your home break gets outside of its normal comfort zone and a key board for travel.

Guns

 

A gun is a term that is loosely thrown around in surfing far too often if you ask me.  I am definitely guilty of the offense.  A gun is the board you ride when it gets scary.  This is your big wave board; triple overhead and bigger, when you pull a gun out of your garrison there should be butterflies in your stomach.  Most likely it is a day where the waves could kill.  Now like I said Im not a fan of big waves.  My gun is a 6’3 x 18 ¼ x 2 3/16 pin tail.   I have rode this board maybe ten times in my entire life.  I don’t go looking for giant waves and on the rare occasion that I find myself in a chest thumping mood I will pull out this board and go up north in search of fear.

 

Now if I lived in Hawaii a 6’3 gun would be laughable where the average gun is anywhere from 6’8-7’10.  Like I said your quiver is a toolbox.  I don’t live in Hawaii I live in Santa Barbara where we rarely see waves over double overhead and even that is rare.  Personally I feel a 6’3 is too big as well, but every now and again it comes in handy for a mission up north.

Rhino Chasers and Tow Boards


 

I cant give much help here because I don’t have the desire to ride waves the size of houses.  A rhino chaser is a gun made for waves in the twenty foot plus range.  They are what is ridden at Waimea, Todos, Mavericks and every other BIG wave spot in the world.  Most start at around 8’10 to as big as 11 and 12 feet.  I  would not consider purchasing one of these unless you live in a place near a big wave spot and believe yourself ready for the challenge.  I know when I was tested in such conditions it had me paddling back to the beach like a scared little girl.

 

Tow boards are super narrow and weighted down with lead usually in the 5’6 – 6’0 size.  I have only seen these boards in surf shops here or in production and have never rode one nor desire too.

Small Wave Boards

 

A good small wave board is gold in any surf locale.  No matter where you decided to settle down there are going to be terrible small gutless days, some places more then others.  You can either spend these days sitting around watching Brady Bunch re-runs on television or surfing.  I choose the latter.  This where a good small wave board comes into the picture.  Picking the right small wave stick is totally dependant upon how you want to surf tiny waves.   Do you want to still try and get high performance on it or do you want to cruise.

 

A lot of this is ability dependant as well.  If you are not great at surfing then most likely you should seek out a small wave board that will allow you the most float and maneuverability.  If you are looking to shred in the miniscule then you want a scaled down, stubby lower rocker version of your all around short board.  For me this is a 5’7 x 18 1/4 x 2 2/16 wide swallow tail.

 

Others lean towards keel fishes, which offer great float and glide in even the worst of conditions.  Round nose fishes give plenty of float and offer the rider a chance to ride a super small board with a fair amount of maneuverability.

Fun Shapes & Long Boards

Everyone should own a long board in their quiver.  You never know when you will have to rehab an injury, teach someone how to surf or just want to go out and chill.  I had never felt the need to own a long board till I moved out to Santa Barbara where there are tons of perfect point break set ups that break under knee high most of the time.  There is nothing more fun then cruising down a perfect point peeler on a good long board.

 

Long boards and fun shapes are also the unskilled surfers and big man small wave machines.

Specialty Boards

Specialty boards are those that are not necessary at all but in some cases fun or even cool to have.  Alias and hulls are perfect examples of these.  Who really needs a fin less surfboard that only works in perfect waves and is near to impossible to ride?  When you snag a wave on one and feel that unimpeded glide it’s a pretty cool feeling.  Retro boards are another one.  Every true surfer trying to reach guru status needs at least three classic boards from contrasting time periods and know how to ride them.  I currently have two but at one time had four.  How can we create new ideas with out revisiting the old ones from time to time?

 

Slab boards are another specialty board that has also recently came into modern quivers since everyone loves slabs.  A slab is a wave that comes into shallow water from deep water too fast to properly form thus causing a mutant triple up tube.  The Box in Western Australia is a perfect example of this.  Slab boards should be geared specific to the different slabs but rule of thumb should be your regular short board but thinner, more rocker, more narrow and pined out.

 

Basically the perfect quiver is not harmonious but specific to each surfer and his needs. It’s a toolbox.  End result you should own the boards that allow you to have the must fun.  At the end of the day that is what surfing is all about anyway.

My perfect quiver circa 2006, 2 5’10’s 2 6’1’s and a 6’3

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