July 2012 Surf Sessions
July Surfing Sessions in Review
7/31/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 48
Another fun day in the most unlikely of forecasts down at the River Mouth. I got another late start. For whatever reason I could not get to sleep till 2am and it was a restless sleep at that. Steph bailed on me again. No surprise there and it was fine cause then I could do my own thing, which I like better when it comes to surfing anyway. At this point she knows I can surf and Im a chill dude. That points been made. I need to make up ground in the social arena now. I got down there and it was a bit high but there were def some bowls at the south end of the reeds. I went for it. The Santa Barbara surf bus pulled up and luckily they decided to move on. I passed three other Barb guys I knew on the way down and they were claiming it too high. I got out there and had a ball. The whole lineup was all mine, it was glassy with a little texture and the sand is just perfect right now, even on high. I rode the rooster board since I broke the Eon Flux board yesterday. Things went great and I had a ball. Met this cool dude Angelo who just moved her from Venice Beach. He was stoked. Think I may start calling him to surf a bit, especially since Ryan is laid up with a calf injury at the moment.
7/30/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 21
I got a late start this morning. I was not really expecting much to be happening out there. Buoys had dropped from the previous day and the tide was a bit fat. Stephanie was suppose to surf with me, but missed my by about ten minutes. Chris Lisanti does not wait for anyone in the morning. Surf always comes first, always. I got down to River Mouth and it was clean with some small but fun looking peaky bowls with a few guys scattered along the different banks. Turns out when I got down to beach level it was more like chest to head and solid with double up barrels. It became an instant froth fest for me. I had a deep ass FS tube that I have no idea how I made it out of. Stuck a bunch of critical reos and some decent airs. Then as I was paddling back out after landing a sizable fs air reverse I saw this right sucking up off a rip on the sand bar. I stroked into and air dropped into the pit. I felt my board crease, even heard the pop when I hit. I grabbed the rail to stabilize the board, but the pressure was just too much and as I was about to come out my board snapped right in the middle under my feet. Just like that the session was over. The board itself was kind of at the end of its life. It sucked that I had to have my session cut short. I guess I am going to have to always start bringing a spare again. Great session while it lasted though.
7/29/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 76
Apparently I need professional help as good friend of mine requested of me for about the 100th time over the past year. Fuck professional help, been there done that. I control my destiny its just at the moment I am undecided on which path to head down. I really needed a surf this morning. Luckily I noticed last night that there was some swell on the buoy. I woke up around 7am and just charged it. Did not check anything. Harbor was small but clean, about waist to chest high with average shape. Two guys were at the knoll, no one was down by the reeds. I walked a bit and found a series of average sand bars that were happening. Then I guess I frothed. Truth be told I really was not surfing all that good, but just being out there was enough. I had an hour solo session before my friend Dave paddled out. He is an east coaster too and at 40 froths just as hard if not harder then I do. I’m always stoked to surf guys as into as me. We dismantled the tiny offerings for about another hour and a half. Then Lindsay showed up with two friends of hers. I decided to keep surfing with them for about another half. They split and there were still some fun ones coming in. I almost did another hour but had taken a few lumps earlier and figured I would quit while I was ahead. Some days you just keep getting hit with your board and that was the type of day I was having. Still I will take it to the bank. Think 76 waves is an all time record since I started counting waves.
7/28/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
I think enough combo swell has popped up on the buoy for there to be some form of a session at Ventura Harbor. Last night I got stuck baby sitting a very intoxicated Lindsay downtown thus ruining my evening. It was in service of a friend. I would rather be there to make sure she was alright then some idiot taking advantage of her in such a state. Then I came home and got hammered with my college neighbors. Good times…aint life grand?
7/27/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
And the great summer flat spell continues. Fuck this. I am so over California and Santa Barbara in general. Julie hits me up out of the blue last night for absolutely no reason with one of her “How are you” texts. There is nothing I hate more then a “How are you” text from anyone, unless I am sick or injured and that could be summed up in a sentence or two. Fact of the matter is if a text reply can not be answered in more then two sentences then it should be a phone call. But maybe that is me being old fashioned. In her case why even bother. I think I only stay civil with her cause I find her character so rather intriguing. How does one get to be the way she is? Society, up bringing, insanity? Be proud of me I was really depressed last night but I did not get drunk.
7/26/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
In my current less then stellar financial state I just could not justify spending $10 in gas to go surf knee to waist high waves that were most likely going to be terrible at River Mouth. Unfortunately I don’t have a warm wet suit at the moment so going up north is out as well. Anybody out there who owns a wettie corp and is looking for a gnarly life style guy hook it up. I will promote the shit out of your stuff here and you can dress me up in whatever stupid color scheme you want. How about a wet suit that actually looks like a suit. That would be dank. Yeah I know I suck at both surfing and life. I am pretty funny though. Get me an entourage of midgets and circus freaks and you may have a seriously solid advertising campaign. Last night I did a breaded Italian meat loaf over garlic mashed potatoes, with steamed artichoke and a homemade apple pie for the dessert. We had an 11 person turn out of all regulars but 1. Out of all those people I only got four bottles of wine? WTF! I don’t think my guests realize that I spend hours preparing these meals and at least $50 a meal. All I ask in return is you bring a bottle of wine that is at the very least drinkable. I had to pull a bottle and a half off my own rack last night and that is unacceptable. Looks like we are in for an extended flat spell. I need to get out of Santa Barbara!
7/25/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 30mins
Waves Surfed: 20
I sure hope someone is getting good waves someplace out there cause I sure as hell have not. As of today between June and July there have been 16 sessions that were actually fun. The rest were tons of work. This morning was no better although I guess slightly more fun the yesterday. There was a bit more shape and consistency to the in between waves. Still I think the sand bars have built a bit too much sand and the angle a bit too straight for the current set up. I did manage to make it out of a ridiculously strange barrel over a dry bar with all sorts of chop and backwash on it. I came out of that thing just astonished on how it was possible. I love when something extraordinary happens on a day that most people did not even bother to paddle out. I guess that is why I am still surfing nearly everyday no matter what cause you never know what will happen. Looks like a terrible flat spell for the weekend though.
7/24/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 17
I really need to start checking the surf more instead of just blindly paddling cause Ryan went for it. Talk about inconsistent too steep to the beach to have fun on peaks. The water got cold as fuck again. I had a feeling such had taken place and luckily had packed my booties. I did manage a ride ride or two, but over all it was far from the price of admission. For whatever reason I am beginning to feel a bit sour and definately surly about the state of my life at the moment. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
7/23/12 No Surfing:1-2ft
And the flatness continues. After yesterday’s car surfing extravaganza I was not about to get back in my car to chase a white elephant. The buoys were reading the same as the previous day so I decided to sleep in a get some well deserved rest following a crazy party weekend. Supposedly there is more swell on the way tomorrow. I really hope so I could use another good surf.
7/22/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Lindsay and I drove around everywhere and could not find a decent wave. Instead we just fooled around Ventura for a bit, ran some errands and got lunch. It was fine cause I was still drunk from the crazy night on the town at the Wild Cat that I don’t remember. I love to black out. I wonder how much brain damage I have done and liver damage over the past year. Thanks Adrienne hope your life has worked out as well as mine since we broke up.
7/21/12 PM Session: 1-2ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 45mins
Waves Surfed: 16
I got sent home early from work again cause business was slow. It is cool to get off but I am making absolutely no money. I guess this job is not going to work out after all. I got home and my house was full of these girls that were visiting my roommate. Between their banter and bad music, plus the fact that they had dominated my bathroom not allowing me to shower I decided to run down to the Lane for a quickie. It always looks way better on the cliff. I got down there and it was barely knee to thigh. It was a nice night and the water was warm. I groveled a few. This decent looking chick was out on a single fin. We exchanged a few words. Then she got out and started doing gymnastics on the beach. It was rather entertaining and she was rather limber.
7/21/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I just couldn’t get into it this morning. Last night I raged at the Kitty with my friend Ashley. The best thing about going to the club with a married woman is that there is no pressure or awkwardness. I already know nothing is going to happen so I can just be myself and have a grand old time. I had a shit night at work. I messed up a few orders, dropped a turkey burger, burnt my hand and overall just blew it. My boss was pretty aggravated to say the least. It was nice to step out and forget about all that bullshit. Danny showed up at last call with these three chicks who are apparently staying at my apartment. Good times. I woke up around 9ish. The reports looked meager at best and I hate surfing on the weekend anyway. I opted to leave it out and chill before I have to go back to work tonight.
7/20/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
After yesterday I really wanted to surf. Truthfully I really needed a surf too. Somethings did not go the way I had hoped although thanks to my negative disposition went as expected. Despite the situation I did not drink a drop of Alcohol last night “so I have that going for me” (where is that quote from and who said it for 1 UCB point, put the answer in the comments). I checked the Buoys and there was for sure enough swell for River Mouth to have something. The wind report was calm, but of course it was windy when I got there. I saw some lefts down by the reeds and gave it a paddle. Turns out there were still some chest high sets out there and if it were cleaner could have been a really fun session. I did manage to score a few fun ones through the mess.
7/19/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I should have surfed. I was a bit tired and somewhat hungover after my dinner party Wednesday night. I did this original Eggplant vegetarian dish I have been perfecting for a year now and it was a hit. I need to name it now cause it is def going on the menu. I also made this dank ass caramelized orange alla mode dessert that is also going on the menu. It was a hit. We drank five bottles of wine between the eight of us meaning I must have drank at least an entire bottle by myself. I got up around 8 and hit up Ryan. He said the wind sucked and to stay in bed. I took his word for it. I should have just went and got some. Oh well. I did end up getting out of work early and went skim boarding down at Lead Better. I love how at 31 years old I am still running up and down the beach skim boarding like a ten year old. Maybe that is why I will never grow old…
7/18/12 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I was exhausted this morning between the double session, a somewhat busy night at the restaurant and staying up till past 1am making a dessert for tonight’s Wednesday Family Dinner. As a result I woke up a bit later. Just my luck of course the wind came up a bit earlier as well. What was I to do? The swell was still solid and there were plenty of lines. I was still surfing really well and stuck a huge ally oop on my first wave that had the entire line up hooting. From there I found plenty of long although racy lines. Too bad the wind and tide wrecked it or it could have been another amazing day of surf. Looks like more swell on the way, but more bad wind too. Time will tell.
7/17/12 PM Session:2-3+ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 20
A double session is a rarity for me if the points aren’t working but for whatever reason I had to sneak in another session before work. The wind was still good so I ran back to the Gold Coast. Turns out the morning must have been the peak of the swell cause it was small town there. Just north of the entrance to Emma Wood there was this Sand Bar that was delivering a chest high plus wave with nice lefts. I was there anyway and to drive to work and sit in the parking lot for an hour did not make sense. I gave it a paddle. Turns out it was way more fun they it looked and the water warmed up again. I had some really fun ones then the crowd tripled on the three peak sand bar. It was cool cause I had to go to work by then anyway.
7/17/12 AM Session: 3-5ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 22
I only surf the Gold Coast when the surf is either just right so the place fires (its one of the few spots that can handle south wind) or if I am with a novice and looking to beat the crowd. Today both entities held true. I have been trying to make time with this chick I met through Lindsay a few weeks prior. At first the attraction was purely physical but as of late I am really starting to enjoy her company. I know this puts me in a dangerous predicament emotionally, but maybe its time for me to try again? Whats that fall off the horse saying about anyway? Our schedules really contradict thus making finding time together difficult. Last night she hit me up wondering if she could come surf with me in the morning. She has some skills but they are rudimentary at best meaning a surf with her has to be a compromise between waves the both of us can ride and a place where I will not be disgraced by other surfers for bringing her there. I know I hate it when guys bring girls who cant surf out at Emma Wood. Last night I thought nothing of it. The reports all showed average south swell from Fabio leading me to believe the morning was to be average at best and thus ok to give up. We checked Kooks Peak and there were a few fun looking bowls out there, fun for both of us. I just wanted to have a look at the Gold Coast since the wind was right. Sure enough it was firing. I mean I started to froth. I must have tore my wettie on so fast it was not even funny, although The kook beat me, but I am a slow changer as anyone who surfs with me knows. I was going to help her along, but it was just too good out there and I just ended up frothing. Literally it was as good as New Port is on a good south swell. I got one tube that had to be like 75 yards long. I had some sick airs, almost brought down a huge bs full rotation air but came unglued in the landing. So far I would say it was the session of the summer!
7/16/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
It must have been the right place but wrong tide and worse wind. South wind is trash here. There are about a handful of spots that can handle it and they were terrible this morning. Truth be told I was rather unmotivated to surf today after the fun run of swell that just passed. I checked the reports and things looked favorable. My boy Ryan hit me up and said he was going to the River Mouth. Despite the wind and tide I suited up and joined him. There were not really any better options out there. As I was walking down the beach Nathaniel Curran and Dan Malloy were leaving. We exchanged hello’s they shook their heads “its a bit slow out there”. It certainly was. I got a few but overall it was far from worth the 50 cents a wave the session cost me.
7/15/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 52
Hows that for a number? I frothed pretty hard this morning. Of course it also helped that I had the entire reeds section of the beach to myself. There were a few guys on the mouth sand bar south of me and a few guys at the knoll to my north. When I pulled up it looked a bit small but conditions were glassy. Then I saw a few nuggets down by the River Mouth and suited up. It may have been smaller then the previous day but the lines were way better and with out all the chop I was able to take advantage of sections all the slop kept me from getting to yesterday. I was on too. I suck a bunch of FS Airs, a sick little BS air, an ally-oop. I even found a really fun little tube. The sun was out, dolphins were jumping all in all it was a fun day at the beach.
7/14/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
Thank you Emilia for giving me a few fun days of surfing. This morning was another fun day at the River Mouth although a bit harder to surf. Still I managed to find a bunch of fun ones. Friday night I went to the Cat and had a grand old time. Then came home and made the right decision for a change. Things may be turning around in Lisanti Land.
7/13/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 43
My roommate and I cruised downtown last night for some pool and other shenanigans. I found a box of books on the walk home. Surprisingly I woke up rather well rested and ready to surf. I got to River Mouth and the wind was already on it, had been all morning. My boy Ryan was out so I just suited up ran down. Turns out although a bit on chunky side there were plenty of really fun lefts. I ended up frothing the shit out of the session catching anything and everything that came my way. I stuck a few nice ally-oops, went for a shrink wrap that I almost pulled coming unstuck on the switch stance landing. It was a sick sess to say the least.
7/12/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves surfed: 28
Oh man I have been waiting for a morning like this morning for the past four weeks and it was not even that good. Conditions were glassy, waves about chest high with fun little barrels. Perfect little south swell River Mouth. The only downside was it was a bit inconsistent and since the water is cold again it made waiting for waves a bit painful. I managed a handful of really fun left tubes, stuck a sick ally-oop and overall felt good about my performance. Then literally a bus load of groms showed up form Santa Barbara and clogged the place. The wind began to get on it and I had already got my fill so I bailed and let them have it. Last night my dinner party went down with out a hitch, well I did forget to serve the garlic bread. Shit happens. I had 11 heads, the most we have done here yet. Dan and I actually had to bring in the outside table and chairs to accommodate everyone. We did Cavatellis, Meatballs, Sausage, and a Mediterranean Bell Pepper Salad. Chantelle made an exquisite peach cobbler for dessert. I must say it was a rather fine evening to say to least.
7/11/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Sober life day three not all its cracked up to be. Last night I had the oddest and slightly disturbing dream involving Thanksgiving, everyone who has ever spend a night at the Palace as a resident (late night bar folk withstanding), my ex-girlfriend Ade’s, a crazy super mall that sort of resembled the Biodome, my ex-wife’s parents, my parents and my two front teeth somehow falling out! Gnarly right. If three people request it in the comments I will write a blog about the exact particulars of said dream. Its out there let me just say that and from it I woke up at around 5:30am in a cold sweat not able to go back to sleep cause every time I tried I was back in the dream. When I drink I don’t dream or if I do I don’t remember it. Lindsay ended up calling me again at around 6:30 and wanted to surf. Since I was not even going to attempt to go back to sleep I was down. The buoys had more swell on them from the south thus we cruised to River Mouth. It was all fogged out. New Jetty looked small and terrible. Right in front at the Knoll there were some south lefts coming in that led me to believe River Mouth would be fun. The wind was kind of on it but we suited up and went for the Hail Mary. Turns out it was pretty solid chest plus and some nice boostable close outs. Lindsay already freaked out by the fog thought she saw a shark and bailed leaving me all alone for about an hour. My boy Ryan showed up for the last 15 before I had to go and take Lindsay to class. I stuck a really solid FS ally-oop. Unfortunately I found a dozen eggs that must of fell out of my shopping bag from Sunday in my trunk. Three days in the hot sun? I don’t think so. I left them on the side walk for the bums to enjoy.
7/10/12 AM Session: 1-3ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1hr 15min
Waves Surfed: 16
Day two of getting back to normalcy and a some what sober life. Must say its nice to wake up not feeling all beat up from the previous night. Lindsay woke me at around 7am looking to surf. I was down to grovel, hoping to beat the winds. That didn’t happen. The harbor was all drained out, windy and small. I could not find a line anywhere. Emma was drained leaving us with C Street as the only option. To not lose heart we just suited up and charged it. Conditions were meager at best, but ride able. We went up to pipes and shared the tiny knee to waist high plus conditions with one other stoked old guy who is always there. We made the most of it. I actually had one really good backside reo I was happy with and a cool little fs air. Heard Emma was fun on the incoming tide. Thinking about going up north tomorrow.
7/9/12 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 20min
Waves Surfed: 23
“What is this fucking Florida shit?” That was what I yelled at my boy Ryan upon paddling out to the wind blown waist high garbage I drove 45 minutes and spent ten bucks, 50 cents a wave to surf. Of course the thing is if it was Florida everyone would have been stoked especially in the summer. It’s not Florida and I was wearing a 4/3 and boots thanks to an unseasonably cold up welling. First twenty minutes I was super pissed off, then began snagging some fun little lefts, stuck an ally-oop, and a cool fs wheelie air. Last night after an amazing dinner I cooked up, shrimp scampi for my roommate, this girl Stephanie who I have been hanging out with a bit and I, I cruised to Wild Cat just to catch up with some friends and only had one drink the entire night. I wanted to see if I had the self control and I did! The past week has been a tough one for me. I would have been Ade’s and I ‘s three year anniversary and I must say I did start to get down and drank way more then I would have liked going on two separate out of hand benders. Its time to regroup and continue on the upward trend I have been moving in the past few months.
7/8/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr 45min
Waves Surfed: 21
Talk about knocking your head against the wall for nearly two hours. I just got off a serious five day bender that was the usual sex, drugs and rock n roll. Every time such happens I feel really bad at myself after. I drink because I’m unhappy and I’m unhappy because I drink. Or is it that I just have nothing else to fucking do? The more things in my life make sense the more confused I become. I was going to make one of those “I’m not going to party anymore” declarations, but that would just be a lie. After work I came home exhausted. My idiot college neighbors were throwing a rager that ended up with screaming, broken glass and all sorts of hysteria at around 12:30am waking me from my Seinfeld couch coma. I got up around 8ish this morning all bright eyed and eager; no that’s a lie. It was cold, foggy, damp, windy and the buoys had dropped. Not optimistic I met up with Ryan at the harbor where he proceeded to force me to surf the very small very windy garbage down at river mouth. I forced out my twenty waves. My feet were cold and I think I may have had one really decent ride the entire session. Boy oh boy do I love the sport of surfing.
7/7/12 No Surfing: 3-4ft
More south swell filled in. I was suppose to work a double shift today, 7-2pm at the produce market and then 3-10pm at the restaurant. My old friend Brittany was in town and we met up at the Kitty which led to a late night to say the least. It was nice to see her again and catch up. I need to pull my head out from my ass and start surfing again.
7/6/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I woke up down town in a spare bedroom of my friend Ashley’s house wearing nothing but a pair of pink satin pants that said princess with little green frogs all over them at 1:30pm. I had work at 3:30pm thus had no time to surf by the time I got home. My boy Ryan was claiming River Mouth at head high and I’m sure it was. I really need to get a handle of my life. Damn black outs.
7/5/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Too much party and not enough surf that has been the theme of things lately. I hit the scene hard with my boy Dave last night. Things were pretty slow although a few ladies out. I was fishing for anything and almost pulled this cute chick from NY. Her friend was not really feeling Dave and somewhere between signing out my tab and leaving the bar at last call I lost the girls. Oh well. Woke up this morning checked the Lane it was even more pathetic then normal. Came home checked the buoys and reports and they all came up flat. Decided to do laundry and clean my house instead.
7/4/12 PM Session: 1-2ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 31
It was fucking small and drained as I sat there starring at the meager conditions. Conditions were glassy and I saw a wave or two I could ride. A full on grovel session ensued, but I made the most of it. I def needed the surf that is for sure. This flat spell has to end soon cause I need to surf some real waves. I feel like I am back in New Jersey.
7/3/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
I just couldn’t bring myself to grovel today. I woke up and it was all fogged in adding to my already somber mood. My neck was hurting a bit from the day before’s surf and I was generally unmotivated. My boy Ryan was cruising to Emma Wood. I figured I would go meet him and thus get motivated. The Wood was terrible and crowded. I went to the Harbor in hopes of finding something there, but that too looked terrible. Finally I bagged it. Some days you just need a break from groveling. Its times like these I wonder why it is I am still doing what I’m doing. Started my new job yesterday. My experience on restaurant line is lacking for sure. Ultimately I am going have to work extra hard to be where I need to be for such.
7/2/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 28
I forced myself to go out to the Kitty last night so that I would at least be a little social. I mean this is a tough time of year for me. I met Ades on the 4th of July three years ago. Oh if only I knew then what I know now. I would have still fallen in love with her. There were plenty of decent prospects out. I shook a few trees but nothing really feel out. Ran into a chick from Westmont whom I was hitting it off with till she was dragged away by friends. End of the night made the usual mistake I have been making the past few weeks. Hey at least I am pleasing someone even if not myself. I woke up around 9am checked the reports and things looked like more shit for Ventura. East Santa Barbara buoy had 4ft on it and the tide was right so I checked the lane. Turns out it was solid Chest high plus with nice light offshore winds and only four heads on it. I got out there and snagged a bunch of really fun ones. Somehow managed to come out of a nice little bs tube. I also tweaked my neck odd on one too. I would have surfed longer but the crowd tripled and with the dropping tide it became very inconsistent and dangerously shallow on the inside. I opted to quit while I was ahead. This afternoon is the start of my new job. Hopefully I don’t blow it.
7/1/12 PM Session: 1-3+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
For whatever reason I just woke up in a funk today and it carried on through. As a result I did not leave my apartment till around six. I did a little reading, finally finishing the collection of Hemingway short stories I have been reading for the past five months. Hemingway is a bit on the depressing side and it probably was not the best choice to change the mood I was in. Then I wrote for a while, cooked a nice breakfast before eventually surfing. I got to the Lane and was pleasantly surprised by the conditions yet a bit disappointed in the size of the crowd. Still there were plenty of fun waist to chest offshore/side shore little peelers to go around. For whatever reason I started off really cold and never warmed up. When I’m cold I cant really enjoy a surf. I did manage a solid fs ally oop and pulled into one super wide perfectly good closed out barrel that I ended up injuring my shin and ankle on. I did not get cut, which is good cause at the moment I cant really afford to get stitched up. Those of you who are crying about this health care bill being passed all I have to say to you is try not being able to go to a doctor cause you cant afford it and then maybe you will understand. I think that issue may have to be a Chris speaks out on politics blog. I feel it coming on soon.
what I wouldn’t give for 3-4 ft new jetty.
Ha, me too. But I drank instead. Whooot!
[…] July ’12 […]
[…] July ’12 […]
How did she tolerate you frothing and ignoring her?
She was stoked I think. I mean every time I made it in near her I asked if she was cool. She was pretty amazed by my surfing ability, although I was on that morning. But then she has been blowing me off the last few days so maybe I blew it. Her fucking loss…
Bill Murray, Caddy shack.
Kooky gets the points. I dont know how I missed this earlier.
[…] July ’12 […]
I do not understand? Are you saying I should go to Costa Rica?
I know how much you love CR.
[…] July ’12 […]