Surfing Ruined My Life

November 2019 Surf Sessions

11-30-19 No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
The wind was offshore and perhaps at sunrise the beaches may have had some fun chest high surf.  The tide was steadily coming up and already at a four and half foot high by eight when I woke up.  I figured Gabe and I should just wait till the tide began to back out and have a look at Strand.  Angers called and said there were some chest high ones.  It was still really fat when we got there.  It looked like Angers was struggling on his fish.  Over it we decided to go get some work done then look again as the tide dropped out before dark  At around three we looked again though there was something to surf it was a bit inconsistent, very cold and a steadily rising crowd for what as on offer.  Then it started to rain while we were checking it basically putting end to even considering a paddle.  That was fine cause we actually put in another four hours in at the workshop.  We ended our day and batch with a splendid dinner at Danny’s Deli, most likely in my opinion the best Jewish Deli in the 805.  Prove me wrong if you own or know a better spot in the area.

11-29-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
It was another stormy day driven by hard WNW winds from the moment we woke up.  I had an off chance hope that Rincon would have a wave in the Cove towards low tide.  It was only about waist high at best in there and pretty sloppy being the wind was more west then north.  Considering all the boards that needed to be shaped Gabe and I decided to just spent the after noon and night grinding away in the shop.  With any luck there will be some wind swell in the morning.  Winds are predicted to be off shore down in Ventura all day tomorrow so maybe we will get lucky.  So far Surfline blew another weekend forecast as of late it has been a bit underwhelming.

11-28-19 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
There was a very promising forecast for scoring waves all holiday weekend long.  Gabe and I had batch of Clarks Surfboards to shape and it looked like we were going to have a super fun surf and work weekend ahead of us.  The morning brought wind and rain and the swell a bit slow to fill in, perhaps because of all the weather.   We cruised down to our work shop to go over some board details then headed to Strand where the wind was off shore and crowd was rather lite.  It was a bit more stretched and all over the place then I would have liked. It sort of looked like an east coast day where it was stormy all morning and then the wind came and cleaned it up.   That being said there were keggers up and down the beach and plenty of corners to be hunted down.  There was also the occasional double over head close out set to contend with as well.  Normally I would have been all over it with out any hesitation, but since I hurt my back heavy surf has posed a bit of challenge and apprehension for me.  I manned up and paddled.  Worst case scenario there were some smaller and softer ones off the Ship that I could go surf if I found the intensity of the South Bowl too much for me.  Gabe was frothy having a brand new 36s model, Clarks to try out with great waves to boot.  Once out in the line up, a feat I somehow managed to do dry hair I was very picky and nervous of my first wave.  With the colder weather my back was definitely hurting.  I let a number of decent ones go to my dismay.  Finally a bomb right came to me and I was in the perfect spot.  I swung in and by the time I got to the bottom I was standing straight up in the barrel then came out with ease thanks to how it bowled out and then hit the end section.  I needed that confidence builder to get me back in the game.  From there I managed two more really good tubes and a few in and outs.  Then the wind came up gnarly out of the SSE right before dark trapping Gabe and I out there as a very angry looking rain squall came in from the Islands.  It was very cold, wet and dark changing out.   Then we race home for has become to be known at my home in Santa Barbara as the “Lost Boys” Thanksgiving.  Pretty much since I have lived full time in SB I have done a turkey feast for any of my friends and their friends or anyone chill who didn’t want to be alone for the holiday and enjoy an amazing meal.  This year Bizzaro and I  decided to smoke our turkey and as such he injected four sticks of butter into .  I must say it was the best turkey ever made at this house.  I would say it was another one for the books.

11-27-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 30
The first real rain of the season came down upon us last night with a whopping inch and half. It was enough to take out the Cave Fire to everyone’s relief.  My girl had a half day and we went down to Ventura for some lunch and I had to stop by the Clarks Surfboard facility to see how things were situated for this weekend’s batch.  The winds were super hard out of the WNW tearing up everything, even the protected points.  Rincon had a wave in the Cove that was clean enough, though still rather sloppy for ‘Con.  I had a knew Clarks Surfboards stringerless EPS Fly Guy model I wanted to test out and it was perfect for that board.  Despite the cold and it was freezing with the wind chill I suited up.  It was pretty empty when I checked it, but I guess the crowd decided to show up right with me sort of making it a bit busy for what was on offer.  It was an annoying crowd too.  The majority of it was a bunch of randoms who didn’t really know where to sit and subsequently were pushing the whole pack too high up the point or just plain got in the way.  There was lots of waves coming in, but only few runners.  This idiot on a fun shape kept blowing waves and somehow managed to back paddle again and again till I got furious and paddled his ass all the way up to lower River Mouth, then quickly ran back down to the real line up and managed to snag my first really good runner.  Even on that I would have to say at least five people tried to paddle in on me at different sections when it was clear that I was not going to fall.  FUCK!! There were only like twenty people out we could have all got fun waves and stayed out of each others way.  Surfers suck.  I snagged a few more inconsequential ones before getting out and walking back up.  After two crap rides I got my best wave, a solid head high runner.  Between the current and the crowd it was enough for me and my back.   I had no problem calling it a day.   I lucked out cause it started to rain as soon as I was finished changing.  The board worked great.  After the session my fiance and I headed to Bella Vista lighting in SB to check out some possible lighting, drapery and other facades for the wedding.  I must say it was rather painless and gave us lots of insight on how we want everything to look.

11-26-19 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 30
I woke up with my mind set to surf a point today.  This has really been the first run of decent enough NW swell to even get me excited about the the points.  Ryan had been getting some bombs over at Ventura Point, but I hate that wave.  Unless its really pumping its a burger and either way it’s too slopey to properly surf backside.  I never surf there unless I am completely out of options.  Passing Santa Claus it appeared there might be enough swell for Rincon to be fun.  The wind was south when I pulled up, coupled with the fat six foot tide it was looking very warbly on the face.  There were some macking sets up top and some solid runners through the Cove.  The place had the potential to cook.  I started up at Indicator.  The outside big ones were pretty mushy so I sat just under everyone and picked off a few decent double ups. As the tide dropped it started getting mushier there so I moved into the River Mouth.  It wasn’t really lining up there like I like it to be.  Most were either sectiony, running away or just soft.  Soft really was the theme out there despite the size.  I got one into the Cove and made a stand there.  Somehow I was out of position for everything and when a good one finally came to me some older guy was floundering right were I was about to drop in.  I had to adjust my line and caught an edge eating it.  Then a I picked off a few insider ones of no consequence before I lucked into a solid double up grower that took me to the free way.  At that point I was feeling a bit winded by my back from the paddling and long rides, and the crowd had gotten rather intense.  I decided to quit while I was ahead.  All things considered I think it was a fun enough Rincon opener for me for the season.  On the way back into town I could see the enormous smoke cloud from the Ceave fire, I guess it was at 5,000 acres or so.  All the traffic was going out of town and I wondered if I should have turned around with them.  It’s suppose to rain tonight so with any luck we will get a handle on it.  I arrived home to a shipment with our wedding invitations.  I thought they look good enough, but my fiance was unhappy with them.  I better get used to her not being pleased as per the norm for marriage.

11-25-19 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 78
There was some NW wind swell on the buoy from the weekend, some minor south, a steep NW wind swell and a new solid NW ground swell filling in.  My plan was to go see about getting some time in at Rincon.  Of course the wind was south and hard enough to tear the shit out of it, especially with the high tide.  I heard it was cleaner in Ventura.  Robbie was going to charge Surfers Knoll in the hopes of finding some corners.  Ryan was heading to Ventura Point to meet the fresh ground swell head on.  I went back to the ship.   There were a pack of Body Boarders in the south bowl.  It was chest to head plus and very bowly.  I saw a few roll into the ship that looked fun enough and there were a few tubes to be had.  Right off the bat I snagged a few fun lefts and even a little in and out barrel.  As the session wore on the wind began to pick up out of the south and coupled with the dropping tide it bean to be difficult to find the good ones.  I moved into the south bowl and had bit more luck.  I found a decent shack to foam ball hit combo to call it quits on.  Ryan said the point was bombing.  I should have gone there.  On the drive home there was solid swell up the whole coast, but a bit beat up from the south wind.  I may not have scored, but I still had fun and that is all that matters at the end of the day anyway.

11-24-19 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
The surf came down a tad and after yesterday I really wanted to surf something.  I brought every board from my step up to my fish in the hopes I could find something to surf.  The ship was taking way less swell then any of the other beaches only about chest to head high and inconsistent.  It was glassy, the crowd light and looked playful enough for me to surf a bit. Between checking it and changing  a bus load of Israelis showed up and clogged the entire line up.  There had to be at least ten of them, all completely clueless.  My first few waves were just ruined by these guys getting in the way.  As the tide dropped all the usual peaks began to show themselves on set giving a regular the advantage.  I just began to sit outside and wait for the sets.  This strategy worked rather well.  Though a bit restricted by my back I got into a real groove and surfed rather competently.  It was stupid but I even pulled off a few straight airs.  The steadily draining tide soon put the kibosh on my fun (no pun intended on my friends who crowded the line up earlier).  This worked to my advantage cause I had surfed rather hard and it was a good time to call it quits while I could still walk.   Rest of the day went to building our wedding website with my fiance.  I have been working in the wedding industry for over ten years, maybe worked close to 1000 weddings and I had no idea what a pain in the ass it is when you are doing your own.  I should have just flown her to Fiji and eloped.

11-23-19 No Surfing: 4-6+ ft
After the long day I stupidly put my back through I could barely get out of bed let alone surf.  I was in excruciating pain.  The problem with getting hurt for me is that my brain isn’t injured and I am very good at putting mind over matter causing me not to get the proper care I should.  By mid day I had worked things out enough that I could at the very least move about.  I got reports that it was mostly walled at all the beaches and small and crowded at the points.  I don’t think I could have handled the beatings I would have taken anyhow.  In the afternoon I though about giving it a go, when I fielded a call from Angers that the wind had come up thus persuading me to just take the day off.  I hate being injured.

11-22-19 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 78
The swell had come down a little bit and I got word that Strand was fun and playful.  I really wanted to paddle around a little bit if not for any other reason then to see how fucked up my back really was.  I jumped in at the Ship was actually really nervous about taking my first wave.  I didn’t even know if I was going to be able to stand up.  I kind of paddled around looking for the right first wave settling for a mushy left on the inside just to feel out how things were working.  I got to my feet no problem and even did a little turn.   Then I followed up with a steeper right and knocked two solid hits off.  From there I got back into the session, though was still very cautious about late drops although I did slide down the lip into a pretty critical backside tube I was happy with.  As I got close to my twenty wave cap I definitely felt my back beginning to get very tired and knew it was time to come in and not push it.  I was totally stoked to have been able to surf.  When I got out of the water I got a call from a caterer I had never worked for if I’d be interested in doing some prep work for them that afternoon.  I probably should not have taken the work considering I was on the mend, but I also needed some cash flow.  Of course I get home from work and my lady wanted to go out to the Wild Cat to announce our engagement to all of our friends.  This was another thing I should not have agreed to considering I could have to rest.  Never the less it was fun to celebrate with all of our friends.  The end result was that by the time I got home I was too drunk to realize that my back was completely shot.

11-21-19 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft.
Miles Driven: 44
Last night I was awoken by a very sharp pain in the back of my neck.  As I have mentioned my lower back has been hurting a bit.  The past couple of afternoons I have been dish washing cause we can no longer afford a dishwasher with how slow of a month it’s been.  I don’t know if being hunched over the sink for hours is what caused it, but I was in excruciating pain when I woke up this morning.  It was so intense I considered calling out of work.  I manned up and went in.  I got finished around two and was not about to wash any dishes.  They will have to be someone else’s  problem.  I don’t get paid enough to be hurt this bad, especially when it fucks with my surfing.   I knew I didn’t have a real surf session in me, but I decided to go have a look at El Capitan and if it was fun just push around my fish a bit.  When I pulled up I saw a solid little set.  From my vantage it looked alright enough to justify a walk in.  When I came out onto the point it was smaller then I had hoped.  The set wave I thought I saw was some chick crouched super low making it look way bigger from far away.  From the looks of things I missed my tide window by about an hour.  I packed it in and went home for a hot shower, followed by stretching and my back roller followed by ice.  Hopefully I can try and get wet tomorrow and work through this injury.  Its tough getting old kids.

11-20-19 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Miles Driven: 4
A massive wind swell filled in through out the day actually making waves in town.  I had work for the bulk of the morning into the early afternoon.  Around one I headed up to Isla Vista to see what was happening and maybe sneak in a quick surf break between preps.   As soon as I got there a NW wind squall came up and tore the crap out of everything.  I went back to work banking on maybe getting some Sand Bar before dark.  The cams were not impressive so I bagged it and kept working.  Later I would find out El Cap was fun, but the window was most likely before I could have gotten there. Still I should have looked.

11-19-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft, No Surfing
Traffic out of town foiled my plans of taking advantage of some fresh NW wind swell/ South swell combo.  Instead I cruised to Mesa Lane which was extremely crowded and it wasn’t even breaking right.  Seems like there was a lack of sand.  I was going to paddled anyway.  As I was changing my fins out of my groveler I must have damaged the middle fin box somehow and managed to rip the center fin completely out of the board.  It don’t think I need to emphasize the way my week has been going.  I could have rode one of my other boards, but I was so frustrated by that point I just went home to sulk.

11-18-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft, No Surfing
I would have been able to squeeze in a surf after work had it not been for a server not showing up to a corporate lunch causing me to have to fill in thus putting me behind on prep. I heard Shores was fun combo in the morning. After work I ordered some blanks for Clarks Surfboards and did a little sanding.

11-17-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 78
I had to work a corporate party from 10-3:30pm. Afterwhich my girl came and met me and we headed for the surf. My hope was to sort something out at the points. Once again they were stupid crowded and not all that good leading me to just bolt down to the Strand despite the lack of light left. The ship had some empty chest high bowls coming in that I frothed on for the duration of the day, which was short thanks changing back the clocks.

11-16-19 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 78
The first NW swell of the year was not at all impressive and was about as crowded as if it were the best swell in a decade. I drove around getting frustrated cause each spot I checked was beyond mass capacity till finally I found myself at the north end of Strand staring at absolutely shitty back wash ridden kook laden shore break. Meanwhile on the beach some random chick was giving a surf lesson to a six pack of beginners. All I could think about was what surfing civilization has come too. I noticed some fast looking lefts in the bowl with a light crowd and paddled there. It was pretty closed out with the occasional corner with some cross chop on it. I forced a session before heading to work. As far as work goes I had to make pizzas at a rich four year old’s unicorn birthday party who’s parents most likely spent more on that party then I will at my entire wedding.

11-15-19 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Sant Clara River Mouth
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Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 64
Everyone was hoping the NW swell would fill in quicker then predictions called for. As for myself I took my time and cruised to a very underwhelming Rivermouth. The wind was light offshore and there were enough high tide combo corners to get me in the water. I headed past the mouth and found a fun left and right peak for just me and actually got some fun ones. For once it was a surf that turned out to be way more fun then it looked. I started work this afternoon only to find out that my boss cut my hours again this coming week. That is over $350 that this guy has cost me this month alone. It may be time for a new job. Anyone out there in the Ventura/Santa Barbara area in need of a food chef feel free to hit me up. I’m entertaining offers.

11-14-19 AM Session: 2-3 ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 64
I met Angers at the Harbor. Though there was swell between the high tide and there were slim pickings. I sort of got fired up on the mysto right off of the south side of New Jetty, which is usually more is a mirage most of the time then a real wave. Angers whom is usually more stoked then myself and a regular foot wasn’t into it convincing me not to waste my time. Instead I joined Ryan at the Point for a fish session. Actually I was stoked to try out my new Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz fish anyway. The wind came up pretty solid adding bump and crumble to an already lackluster surf. Then a crowd of like thirty longboarders clogged it. My 5’3 wasn’t nearly long enough to compete so I threw in the towel. When I got out and looked up and down the point from top to bottom there had to be easily 100 guys out and it was god awful conditions. What is wrong with people surfing sucks why do so many want to partake in suck a frustrating sport?

11-13-19 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 72
Once again the Shores were the best bet. It was much fatter today. I let Ryan con me into heading to south shores despite the fact that I have been finding fun surf on the north end. It was a bit slow with the tide and very wonky. Then as it dropped the wind came up hard. Still I forced out a surf and managed to find a few in the mess.

11-12-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 72
There was a bit more SW swell on the buoys this morning that was a bit buried in the tide.  Angers and I waited till around ten then paddled the Shores hoping it might get better.  The surf was a bit more stretched then yesterday and the wind light out of the NW causing more chatter on the face as well.  The tide drained out like a river causing it to be pretty fast and rough on the majority of them.  That being said there were some kill-able corners and some shacks with the occasional head high one.  I never found my rhythm today and basically felt winded and out of sorts the entire surf.  I didn’t sleep well last night my girl and I were up late figuring out early stages of wedding plans and I don’t know if the whole thing got into my subconscious or what but I had nightmares all night about the thing.  This usually happens to me when I am working a lot or have a really intricate gig in the midst.  Guess this would be a combination of both.

11-11-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 72
I may have gotten a little excited this morning when I was claiming it was going off.  Considering all of the garbage I have been surfing, chest high peaky, clean, empty left and right barrels up and down the beach got me super stoked.  Yeah it was a bit on the small side.  That being said I got on a full on rip fest out there, fitting into every tube I could and destroying the ones that didn’t.  It was short lived cause the tide dropped so fast it sucked out most of the swell and killed the shape.  For an hour it was bliss.  My only complaint was that I should have been there about a half an hour or so earlier, but I ‘ll take what I got.  I blew the rail out on my board landing hard in the flats on a bit indy grab straight air.  I would say its one of the best surfs I have had this month.

11-10-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 126
With a forecast of light winds, some fresh south swell and lingering NW swell Angers, my girl and I headed up the Jalama in the hopes of scoring something fun.  Of course the wind was wailing out of the WNW tearing up the line up.  Once your up there it is not like there is any place else to go and we definitely were not turning around and going home empty handed.  Angers is from Florida and a hype man he saw some schawck-able lefts and was out there.  It may have been messy but the south sets were a solid chest plus.  Between all the chop and wind it was very weak with bumps and flat sections everywhere making it lots of hard work.  I found a few cherry sections.  Angers had a bit more struggle with his shoulder injury not allowing him to position where he would have liked.  All was forgiven thanks to a post session Jalama Burger.  Lets keep our fingers crossed for a bit more tomorrow.

11-9-19 No Surfing: 1-2 + ft
Last night was a dozy.  I cooked dinner for my girl’s father and did one to many mezcale shots, ok we finished the entire bottle.  The rest of my night was spent tripping all over my apartment.  Good times.  I woke around eleven to messages that the surf was shit and not to bother.  I had to take my lady down to Camarillo to get her ring re-sized since I got the sizing wrong when I bought it.   I figured we could just drive the PCH back up through Malibu and up Ventura to see if there was actually something to surf.  There wasn’t or at least nothing to stoke me out.  I don’t really have a groveler at the moment and therefore I am not keen on the small stuff.  Instead we enjoyed a nice dinner on the water at Ventura Harbor and dream of the day when we will live there and call it home with out the constant oppressive drive that is the plight of the Santa Barbara surfer.

11-8-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 126
Some days one just have has to squash the addiction and not waste the time.  That is what I should have done today.  I had plenty to do on my computer, between personal and Clarks Surfboards stuff.  Ventura had a bit more surf today and I was about to head down there when I got a call from Ryan that Emma Wood was flat and windy.  Angers was on his way to Strand so I hit him up.  The wind had already ravaged the meager offerings there.  I was about to pull the plug on surfing for the day when I had a inkling that maybe Jalama could be fun.  On that hunch I cruised to Jalama not sure what to expect.  When I got to the cliffs the wind was down but the surf was all mixed up.  It appeared a very short period outer wind swell was crossing up all the south and WNW.  It was about chest plus with about six guys on it.  I found a peak at Cracks to myself and made the most out of the borderline terrible conditions.  For whatever reason I was on and stuck a few decent airs putting on one of the better performances I can remember.

11-7-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
All the word I got from everyone was that it was super tiny in Ventura.  Angers paddled shores on his fish where he described it as “average Florida”.  I had some ding repair to catch up on and spend the day tightening up boards.

11-6-19 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Moonstone
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 46
Upon waking up a still beautiful view despite not being the one we wanted I found myself less angry over the whole situation yesterday.  The continental breakfast that came with our stay was surprisingly tasty and plentiful.  Once again all  my favorite Big Sur waves were too small to surf leaving me to believe that I might not get a surf in at all.  We stopped to use the restroom at Moonstone and there were small little clean bowls coming up and down the beach with no one out.  I really wanted to surf.  I jumped in for a quick little hour thrash got my waves and called it a day.  After that we headed back to Santa Barbara stopping at my girl’s parents house to announce our engagement to them.  They were excited, we were excited and we go from there.

11-5-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Asilomar
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 4
After last night I really wanted to surf this morning.  We had a reservation at the Lucia Lodge off the one about thirty miles south of Big Sur.  Its this cure out of the way hotel literally built on the side of a cliff.  I had always wanted to stay there and was excited.  Rather then risk sorting a wave out in Big Sur I paddled Asilomar.  It was chest plus and clean with only five guys out.  With the low tide it was a bit mushy.  There were a few boost-able section on the inside.  I got on a bit of tear before the tide hit rock bottom and it completely turned off.  After the surf we cruised to Pacific Grove to eat at this breakfast place called Holly’s Light House Cafe.  They make their own fresh breads and unique waffle and pancake mixes. Its a must stop for me whenever I am in the area.  The way our luck has been they were closed and this jewelry store my chick likes to shop at there was closed also.  Feeling completely dejected we settled for lunch at this English Pub across the street.  It was freezing and the service deplorable.  It took nearly two hours for us to eat.  We didn’t let it get us down and continued on to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park to hike under the redwoods.  Once again the nature portion of the trip was stunning.  We headed to our hotel in the hopes of a relaxing evening eating that their quaint little restaurant followed by champagne in bad back at our room.  That is when it all went awry once again.  First the restaurant was closed because its the off season now.  Then we didn’t get the ocean front room we wanted, instead getting stuck with a partial view room.   Unhappy and competely out of sorts with all the strike outs we headed back to Nepenthe’s, a thirty mile drive in the pitch black down one of the most dangerous roads in California.  Dinner was fine and we managed to salvage the evening.

11-4-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft (report taken from Asilomar)
The plan was to head up to Moss Landing to see if we could get onto a whale watching excursion, something my lady has always wanted to do.  There wasn’t much NW in the water, but I took my gear just in case.  Besides my girl having one of the best birding sessions of her life we basically struck out all around.  All the boats were booked, our favorite luncheonette The Lighthouse was closed and with the wind we deemed it too cold to go for kayak in the slough.  Instead we went on this wild goose chase up to Watsonville to eat this breakfast spot that Bill Murray once ate at called Cowboy Corner Cafe.  The food was good, but not impressive.  I think the Light House in Moss Landing is way better.  Watsonville is pretty ghetto so be on your guard if dare to make the trek.  I was in The Discount Grocery Outlet buying some prosecco when this gnarly dude stole a watermelon and then got chased down by an employee.  That was enough for me.   From there we headed back to Carmel to go check out Point Lobos State Park.  In all the years I have been coming up to the peninsula all I ever hear is how amazing Lobos is.  I never had time to fit it in till this trip.   The park did not disappoint, on the contrary it was better then I could have imagined.  The ocean vistas are one of a kind.  The trails not to hard, but very scenic.  We saw otters, raptors, shore birds, sea lions and almost ran into an elusive bob cat.  Point Lobos is gem and if you are up there and have about four to six hours I would definitely give it a whirl.  With the time change we lost track of time and I found myself getting to Asilomar just after five.  I had enough time to maybe catch a few before dark.  The waves weren’t all that appealing, it was freezing out and I was bit tired from the five plus miles of hiking around the park.   Instead we went back to our hotel and got some Chinese food at this place called The Dynasty in Pacific Grove.  All I can say is for $45 we ate like aristocracy and the feast was divine.

11-3-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Asilomar
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
Miles Driven: 96
We enjoyed a leisurely morning before heading up to Monterey by way of Big Sur.  I had hoped to get some waves somewhere along the PCH, but there just wasn’t enough swell for some of my favorite spots and the tide was too high for others.  In hindsight I should have surfed Pacific Valley.  We stopped for brunch at Nepenthe’s, a fabulous establishment with great views and even better food.  If you are passing through the area and have a little money to spend I promise you will not be disappointed.  If not still stop and just check out the view from the gift shop and observation patio.  From there we met up with some friends of ours up in Pacific Grove to see their new born baby and catch up.  For me it was more the catch up cause I can care less about human offspring.  They took us to this monarch butterfly grove that is on their yearly migration route.  It was a little sparse since the season had just started but we saw a few dozen or so.  With daylight savings time the clock was ticking and I wanted to at the very least get a few waves at Asilomar before dark.  Though far from exciting out there, when is it ever at Asilomar there was some fresh wind swell and the south combo in the water putting up a chest plus wave.  The Sunday crowd was out in full force easily forty strong.  Once again I was missing my groveler.  These ripper groms paddled out and stoked me up to actually make an effort and I got a few decent ones.

11-2-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Moonstone Beach
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 3
Normally I would have only spent a day in Cambria and then worked my way up to big surf.  Black Hand Wines, wine maker was having his members pick up party and the rates of bottles are reduced 35%.  With that in mind we stayed another night.  The same combo swell from yesterday was still in the water and it was glassy.  There were about fifteen guys on it, but with peaks up and down the beach there was room for one more.  I guess I wasn’t the only one who had that idea cause another ten guys mobbed it shortly after I paddled and three guys basically sat right on me forcing me down the beach to a more closed out peak.  Still  I made the most of what I could get my hands on.  It was a little annoying having to ride my good wave board when I could have been destroying every flat section and small wave that came my way on my Fly Guy.  Instead I had to be patient and get the set waves, which is not usually how I like to surf.  Then the tide got lower, it got more inconsistent and more crowded.  I nearly paddled in I got so pissed off.  I shook it off.  I was on a cloud with my fiance anyhow and we enjoyed the rest of the day together.  At the wine  event we clean house and picked up six bottles of our favorites.

11-1-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Moonstone Beach, Cambria
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 128
After nearly three months of nonstop grueling work I finally  reached a bit of a break before the Holiday rush begins.  To reward myself and my girl we usually take a trip north up the coast to get away from it all.  The timing couldn’t be better considering it was going to be just about flat in the 805 over the next few days.  On the way up we stopped in Morro Bay for some lunch and to have a look at the rock.  My lady had never been there and on this trip our goal is to do something new that we have not done together.  This was the first.  We got to Cambria our first destination in the early afternoon, checked into our hotel, then decided to have a look for some surf.  There was a bit south swell getting into Moonstone that look fun enough so I paddled.  It was chest plus and clean and though tricky I got onto a tear,  Unfortunately I managed to crease my new board landing a bit backside air reverse too flat.  It was early in the surf so I just kept riding it rather then switching boards considering it was done for the rest of the trip.  That was my key small wave board and with the forecast looking rather grim I am going to be stuck groveling on my good wave board.  Later that evening we enjoyed a romantic dinner at Madelines, one of my favorite eateries on the central coast. On the way to dinner we pulled off the road for a little bit of star gazing and I asked my lady to marry me.  She said yes and we got engaged. Usually I walk out impressed.  The food was good, but I felt like it was missing the love.  It didn’t matter though cause we were beyond ourselves with love for each other.