Surfing Ruined My Life

January 2014 Surf Sessions 

1-31-14 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
I woke up ready to surf this morning.  The tide was stupid high again and wind less then desirable.  I figured worse case scenario I would just go grovel Emma Wood.  Shit I have not surfed south of Hammonds in nearly two weeks. I checked Rincon just to make sure there was not something worthwhile at Indicator or River Mouth.  It was way too high and terrible.  As I was walking down the point I noticed a very familiar face from my past, Tony G from Ocean Hut Surf Shop.  Tony is an East Coast staple and has spent more then his share of time in Santa Barbara.  He is also one of the major influences in my life that got me to move out here in the first place.  Tony and his family make a pilgrimage back to the Barb almost yearly.   They rented a house right on the point and I decided to go up and visit with them for a while.  Catching up with old friends is always better then surfing really bad Emma Wood.

1-30-14 No Surfing: 3-5 + ft
I had a terrible nights sleep and was pretty surfed out from the last two weeks.   According to the buoys the swell had dropped quite a bit and with a near seven foot high tide I was not all that motivated to go for a surf.  Trevor said Hammonds looked too high and the crowd was about to swarm it.  Instead I stayed in bed with my girl for a change.  Anyway there is more swell due for Early this week and it looks like really fun waves for my Birthday.

1-29-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Back to back El Cap surfs!   Honestly it has been solid there for almost two weeks now.  I hate to say it but the sand just isn’t very good there making it sectiony as heck up top and mushy as all hell in the cove, my favorite section.  I have to admit I was rather tired.  I am almost at the surfed out point with my body.  I was slow to paddle, slow to stand up and kooking on more then one section.  I still found a few great ones out there.  Some idiot on a soft top burned me on one of my best rides.  I decided to get next to him and jump onto his board and ride the rest of the wave with him.  I figured if he wanted to share the wave we might as well share the same board.  He didn’t take my actions lightly and it almost went to blows.  I threatened to pound him on the beach and went in to wait for the dude.  He never showed up so I assumed he was over it and paddled back out.  I aint taking any more shit from anyone in the water.  I am very respectful, have a good time, always try to spread good vibes  and am tired of complete jackasses making the water no fun.  Chris Lisanti is going to bring some well needed law and order back to the line ups of the 805.

1-29-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Talk about a ground hog day scenario.  I showed up at Hammonds and the crowd was light and waves solid.  There were more people checking it then usual, but none the less I paddled.  Apparently everyone else had the same idea and with in twenty minutes the place was swarmed at least 30 heads, half women.  The women at Hammonds have become a real problem.  They have decided to drop in on anyone no matter what the circumstance.  Basically it was all the short boarders sitting deep getting dropped in on by a fleet of kooky long boarders on the inside.  That being said I still managed to get one of the waves of the day.  It wasn’t the best Hammonds session this week but a fun one for sure.  I had to get out for an interview for UCSB where I was offered a dinner cook position.  Now I have to figure out what I want to do with my life yet again.  For the moment I am just going to revel in all this fun wnw swell.

1-28-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves surfed: 25
After hearing about how good its been at El Cap for the past five days at least I finally had an afternoon to go out and see for myself what all the hype was about.  The point was solid with a moderate crowd.  Unfortunately there was a slight south wind blowing up the into the face making things a bit more mushy then I am used to out there. Also with the lack of rain there is no sand on the point making it a bit more wobbly out there and the inside which is usually heavy as hell is a bit fat.  That being said El Cap is still one of the best waves I have ever surfed and this evening did not disappoint.  There were a few more wash through sets than I am used to out there, but I still found plenty of 10 to 12 turns and a few barrels. Crowd got heavy towards the end of the session, but I know El Cap and how to get waves there so it was not really an issue.  I had forgot what was important to me in life with all the flat spells of 2013.  Two weeks of straight west swells and I must say I remember why I jump through all the hoops I do.  Shit one good one through the point at El Capitan will do that for just about anyone who surfs.

1-28-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Notice a trend here?  Its called waves in town. I was suppose to got to UCSB for a third interview at 11am.  As I was checking Hammonds at 9:30am it was just too good.  The crowd was light and there were barrels!  I made a phone call and a bullshit excuse that I had become ill and paddled.  After about ten minutes word must have gotten out and the place was mobbed, at least 25 strong.  Hammonds is a pretty tight take off area making that a rather maxed out crowd.  To make matters worse everyone was a seasoned local.   Still I managed to get a few on the rotation and some insiders no one wanted.  Then as the tide dropped right before it got too low everyone left and I had a few money ones.  I think I am going for an El Capitan or Naples run this afternoon with reinforcing wnw swell.  Stay tuned for tonight’s update.

1-27-14 AM Session: 2-4 ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Last night I had a terrible sleep.  I must have been feverish.  I kept waking up in a sweat or with the shivers.  Come morning I was achy and thinking about calling in sick to work.  Then at around 9am I pulled myself out of bed thanks to a little motivation from the buoys (lets face it if I stayed home I was most likely going to find myself at El Cap by the afternoon anyway).  With limited time I did a make or break it at Hammonds, which was a tad bigger then yesterday and bit more peaky.  I was getting lefts, rights, straights.  There is something about Hammonds, but I surf that wave incredible.  I can do anything there.  I hit a big fs air reverse, then a big fs indy grab.  Two huge bs air reverses, one nose pick in the lip.  Then finally on my last wave I had two huge hacks and then nailed and easily four foot long bs gap air. So much for letting a little fever get me down.  And the West swell is still hanging around, 262 at 14 seconds!!!!!

1-26-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
I woke up super early for me this morning.  I could still hear waves crashing at Lead Better.  Unfortunately I was feeling a bit on the lackluster side, which I thought was just that feeling of being surfed out.  Now that I am sitting here writing this I wonder if its more like I am coming down with something.  Whatever the case I am not going to let it keep me down.  With less swell I kind of expected to end up at Hammonds or the Coral.  I did the 101 check loop up the Summerland hill just to be sure Sharks was not still breaking.  I could see waves wrapping in at Hammonds and decided to check it.  The crowd was only about 15-20 heads strong and there was definitely waves going by unridden, even on some of the sets.   I paddled and began systematically working the insiders and deep sets as I always do there since proper sets are usually inconsistent and accounted for.  Hammonds is a real local spot and most people keep a steady rotation instead of everyone paddling everyone.  This is nice but can really limit your wave count. In between turns I have no problem scrapping the inside.  The Coral Casino was fucking going off.  I am talking the best I have ever seen that place.  The crowd was at least thirty strong, way too many people for such a tight take off zone.  Besides as the tide dropped the so did the crowd despite the fact that there were still some real choice waves rolling in.  My air game was intact and I stuck a handful of big BS Air Reverses.  Toward the end as things got inconsistent I got cold and tired thus blew the wave of the day coming unglued after miss timing my second turn and getting left behind on a section that would have easily allowed for five more crisp turns and a money air section at the end.  It happens to the best of us.  That would have been my last wave, but I was not about to end it on a doughnut.  I paddled back out and had to sit through a 20 minute lull causing me to be late to work.  A good one came in and I felt bad, but I had to burn some kook from the Valley.  It was a decent wave for me and fuck him.  What to expect when your at a localized wave that hardly ever breaks.   I pulled rank. I am sure dude got his share after I left anyway.

1-25-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Loons
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Truthfully I was not even planning on surfing today.  More devil winds were predicted and I was thinking I might just go to the Wild Cat and get shit house wasted with Bizarro.  Then the fucker decided he was too beat to party, an all time first in his book.  I stayed home and thus was awake bright and early.  I quickly realized the wind had not come up at all.  With the swell angle and tide window I definitely had either Loons or Sand Bar on the brain.  Not interested in dealing with the crowd of pubescent teens that usually swarm that spot when its not all time and a weekend I set my sights on Loons.  I called Trevor and woke his ass up hoping he would check it since he lives across the street from the check spot at Santa Claus.  Of course I beat his lazy ass there.   Through my bird watchers I could see it was solid with only a handful of guys out.  I called Trevor and told him to get his ass out of bed and meet me at Loons.  I pulled into the lot and there were a few others changing, but I figured there was still plenty for all.  When I walked around the point at Padaro all I saw were heads easily 15-20 strong, AT LOONS!!!! I know its a Saturday, but its kind of a secret spot and with out a doubt a local spot.  The pack was coagulated at the top, which has the best barrel section, yet shortest ride.  As a goofy it’s really hard to make one up there.  I like to surf more in the middle of the point and go for the screaming, racy lines that also can offer up some really sick tubes.  I saw Mauriello get like a 5 second tube though that section a few years back.  My first wave was a bomb that came right to me.  I blew the take off forgetting how fast and heavy Loons is and got jacked by the oncoming section.  My fucking board hit me underwater cause when you eat shit at Loons you are either going to get fucked by your board or the rocks or both!!!! YEAH!  Then to add injury to insult I proceeded to fuck up another two set waves in a row.  Pissed I floated a little farther down the point and started picking off some ok ones.  Good by most waves standards, lame by Loons standards.  Then it got less consistent and more crowded.  Luckily a few of my friends were out and let me have dibs on a nice set wave before I had to work.  I took that one all the way to the bottom of the point, looked back and gave a wave of appreciation to the pack for the gift and went to work.  No photo on this one as the check spot at Loons is way too far away to get a visible picture of the line up on my cell phone and then I hiked in already dressed. 

1-24-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Coral Casino
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
I fucking hate the Coral, but with a dropping tide and another round of Devil winds where else is one to go?  I guess I could have drove to C Street and charged that almost ride-able mess or taken my chances that Emma would be ok.  Lets face it there isn’t very much you can do with south wind and solid WNW ground swell.  After a fruitless check by myself at the East Beach side of the Pier I met up with Trevor at Coral, who had checked every option south of there.  As he said “Coral was the only game in town”.  It looked like shit and judging from the fact that Yadin, Killian and my friend Anton were bailing.  I had an hour before work and fuck else to do so I paddled.  I had a few good ones off the bat, then didn’t get shit.  Somehow toward the end I picked up momentum and snagged my best waves.  Then the wind got super hard and shut down what little ride-ability there was left.  Better then not surfing I guess.

1-23-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
DEVIL WINDS!!!! Damn You! I knew we were too lucky the past few days.  Every time there is a good Town swell in the December/January season it seems to come along with SE winds, the worst possible scenario for all the best spots around.  Seeing this out my window I decided to sleep a little later figuring Mesa Lane was going to be the best worst bet around.  I got to the Lane and although a little drained and scalloped out with the side shore winds there looked to be a few corners and still a solid amount of size.  I soloed it and found a few although mostly ended up getting cleaned up by occasional overhead bomb sets I was out of position for and closed out anyway.  Better then nothing.  Reminded me of a shitty surf in New Jersey.

1-22-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Unfortunately the swell had come down a few pegs since the morning.  It still looked mighty fun to me.  Mike and I paddled the Crack Peak again though it was way more sectiony and harder to ride then the morning.  I got a little frustrated.  Then I paddled about fifty yards up the reef and found a really fun wave.  I even nailed a couple of ten turn set waves up there.  I ended up surfing my way down the point till I got back to Seals where I left my stuff.  As I walked out in the sunset all I could think is how lucky I was to score such amazing waves in my back yard.  Now I remember why I live in Santa Barbara.

1-22-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Trevor, Mike and I decided to make the hike into Naples yet again. The buoys were still very solid.  We got there and it was a little smaller then the previous day and had a few more guys on it, yet very fun looking.  We opted to surf up at the Crack Peak, where it appeared the wave had the most bite to it.  This is also one of the most shallow sections of the reef making it a good choice with the rising tide.  It was a bit more sectiony and funky up there then it looked from the beach.  Still I managed some phenomenal rides.  Trevor nailed the barrel of the day although he failed to come out.  Back on the beach Trevor found a full size abalone shell, but forgot to take it home with him.  At Naples it remains.  I must say it was another banner session.  Mike and I decided to hang around for a second session.

1-21-14 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
After breakfast Mike and I missioned it up to El Capitan to catch the dropping tide.  There were plenty of cars parked on the exit ramp and the buoys were right so we just made the hike in.  Upon getting there it was still a bit too high, a bit too small and crowded for what it was.  I ran into Brandon Smith chilling on the rocks.  He had just came from Tarantulas and said it was bombing, but near impossible.  He spent two hours getting worked for the waves.  Shit, you can keep that mess.  As we were talking I noticed plenty of white water at Ed’s and even more at Naples.  On the Gaviota Coast Naples is about the best swell magnet the area has not to mention an amazing wave.  As of late access has been difficult ever since the ranch owner hireed security guards to patrol the trails to keep surfers out.  They can’t do shit about the beach.  If you don’t mind an extra mile walk added to the already two mile hike it used to be no one can stop you.  We parked at Haskells and made the hike.  From there we could that Naples was firing.  My only hope was that it was no to much for my 5’10.  Mike and I stopped and watched Drift Wood, which although not bad I could not see myself sitting there watching Naples fire in the distance.  The hike continued.  I told Mike as I got closer I was going to start high tailing it.  Sure enough it was firing, rights as far as the eye can see with three guys out.  We decided to surf Seals as it was right in front of us, had only one guy out and looked fucking sick.  My first ten waves I had no less then 10 solid hits on each  one and almost came out of a 50 yard barrel.  As the tide dropped it became a bit sectiony, but the good ones still went all the way through.   It was an epic surf and the best day of surfing I have experienced since Pitas back in March of 2o13 look at the March 7th entry of the log if your interested.

1-21-14 AM Session: 2-4 + ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Finally, a swell that coincided with my day off.  It was about fucking time!  Mike met me up at my apartment and we went on the hunt.  I had a real feeling it was going to be a Sharks morning from the buoy readings, which were off the Richter.   After a brief highway loop it was on.  Trevor was going to give Coral a go, but I hate that sorry excuse for a close out.  Mike and I paddled and at first I was thinking we blew it with the small sets coming in.  Then an overhead bomb cam right to me and I hit it six times, pulled into the tube through the mid point and came out barely clearing the rock before the cove, then I hit it another five times till I got to the highway.  After that it was pretty much on.  At the half way point of my surf I took another bomb.  The tide had gotten higher and as I came into the cove, which by the way is rocky as fuck, barnacle and muscle encrusted rock mind you.    As I was coming around the corner at mach speed I saw a column of backwash as big as the wave coming at me.  I thought I was going to make it around it and proceeded to hit the lip.  When I got to the top of the wave the backwash caught me and I was thrown six feet into the air toward the rocks instead of the back of the wave.  While in the air I figured I was going to get messed up on the rock s pretty bad.  My first thought was “there goes the rest of my winter”.  The second was there goes my life.  I covered my face and heat with my arms the best I could. It was a good thing that I did cause the next instance I struck the rock hard on my arm.  Then the next set wave washed me into the rock adjacent to it.  I knew I was fucked but clung to that rock as tight as I could while the next two waves unloaded on me.  I came up and was rather disoriented from the beating that had ensued.  A bit shaken up and unsure of the amount of body damage I had received I paddled over to this guy sitting in the cove and asked how bad my side looked.  Luckily my suit had not a tear anywhere except over my right shoulder.  The worst of the fall was taken by my right arm, but I was pretty sure it wasn’t broken.  Thus the session continued.  Mike and I surfed another half hour or so till the tide got so high that it was riddled with backwash and way too close to the rocks for comfort.  When we got out we ran into Trevor chilling on the seawall looking to tell the tale of his escapes at maxed out Coral Casino. As per usual when I get good waves in town I hit up my favorite jank joint Garretts for a celebratory breaky!!! No photo on this one since you have to hike into Sharks and with the high tide I just suited and booted.

1-20-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Light House
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Fucking Light House!  Fuck,  I have not surfed that place in almost eight years.  Don’t let the picture below fool you the spot still sucks.  Mesa reefs are no bargain.  Sometimes they can shine, but overall just like North Point they are a god damn lie.  I always hear all these people ask me about the Mesa “Mysto” Reefs.  I always tell them the mystery is why they suck so bad.  Initially I checked Hammonds.  Apparently all of Santa Barbara decided to do the same thing and the line up was 40 strong for a swell and spot that is lucky to accommodate twenty.  Trevor said he was going to Sand Bar and I headed that way.  As I was getting to the pier he called and said it was too high.  We decided to run for Mesa Lane.  On the way I stopped to check Thousand Steps just to rule it out.  Sometimes there can be a really fun left up there.  As I was checking the left I saw a right down at light house that made the place look like a real point break.  I called Trevor and we were on it.  Even when we got in front of it I still thought it was going to be a sick session.  Once out there the take off spot was nearly impossible to pin down since the sets were inconsistent and hitting all over the reef.  I found an almost exposed boil rock up the point to line up with that almost worked although a little bit on the fast side.  Trevor opted for the inside of the reef.  I only had an hour and never really figured the place out.  I feel like if I had more time I could have owned it there.  It was better then not surfing or getting completely frustrated in a crowd.

1-19-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I’m not going to lie I got a late start this morning figuring the crowd factor was going to suck and it certainly did.  My intentions were to go surf Rincon, of course I forgot the Classic was running.  Every spot I checked from there on was maxed out.  Emma looked like Trestles.  Even Ventura Campgrounds were over run with kooks.  Finally I just desperation paddled Gold Coast, which was empty and walled for the most part.  I did find some boost-able corners and all the PGCB’s I could get.  On the way out it looked like I should have surfed Solimar as I saw a good set unload on the inside reef with no takers.

1-18-14 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
What can I say it was a Friday night, I just got engaged and I hate surfing on Saturdays anyway.  If you don’t think I found my way into Fancytown with Bizarro at the Cat you must not read here very often.  Heard from Mike that Harbor was fun.

1-17-14 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I know both the Harbor and Strand were probably ride-able if not fun. I had to work and the morning was the only session I had available to me.  With a 6ft high tide and very little swell, plus hard offshore winds I was not about to waste my gas money.  Also there is plenty of swell on the horizon.  I went and did some work in my garden, which I have to admit is looking pretty beautiful.

1-16-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
There was slim picking on the buoy and the tide super high.  I had terrible night sleep that carried on through to the morning.  Rather then roll around frustrated in bed I decided to take my chances at the Harbor.  Sure enough although really fat there was a clean wave with offshore winds coming it at New Jetty and a very light crowd.  There was a handful of guys sitting off South Jetty.  I paddled and got a few.  It was nothing to write home about even though I am technically writing about it.  Beat not surfing and I have been keeping the surf ball rolling! I did a dinner party last night and made a killer stuffed chicken breast recipe and chocolate almond tort for dessert.

1-15-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
With the buoys dropping steadily, but still amazing forecast conditions Mike and I decided to go try our luck back at Jalama.  Thus far we have been scoring.  We walked to Redemption Reef despite feeling a little unsure if it was big enough to break.  It was definitely the smallest I have seen the place.  Conditions were perfect with out a drop of water out of place.  It was very close to the rocks and the inside reef making surfing it a bit dicey, pun intended.  Mike was a little freaked by the gnar factor of the place, but managed to get over it.  I found some decent lefts and rights before the tide got too low and all the outside rocks began to pop up and the inside went dry.  I could only imagine the potential of the place when it gets big and clean.  For what ever reason I felt really uneasy of the shark factor.  I felt like fish food the entire session.  The little hut Pat and I built a little bit ago was still standing too.  As Mike and I took one final look at the spot while enjoying a repast of bagels and fruit we saw what looked to be a sizable great white breach about 50 yards of the take off spot.   Think I am going to have to think twice before I paddle out there again. Maybe it was just a really big sun fish?  Whatever helps you sleep at night eh?

1-14-14 PM Session: 2-4 +ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
After the Rincon sess Mike and I checked conditions and it looked like Oxnard was still offshore.  We cruised to Strand and sure enough it was still looking like pretty fun New Jersey style barrels.  Since I missed the Emma barrel fest a few days ago I wanted to redeem myself.  We paddled down by the Ship and there were plenty of bowls all over the place.  I managed to get a sick double up right off the bat followed by five more.  Then it got a little bit lully and I went into the deep freeze.   I held out for one more good one and I snagged a deep left tube to call it a day.   Nothing like a solid day of surf to get the blood pumping.

1-14-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 28
I was supposed to go up to Jalama, but after a little closer look at both tides and surf I decided it might be best to hang around home.  Truthfully I had these odd feeling that Rincon was the call.  Call it a lover’s intuition.  Sure enough it was solid chest to head high plus with a very manageable crowd made up primarily of locals.  I stayed for the most part in the high River Mouth section.  I found some sick ones, although found myself very out of shape in terms of my legs.  Shit I have only surfed the ‘Con a handful of times this year.  It was great to see everyone out there having a blast.  Then some kook from the valley ruined a great wave on me and I lost it on him.  Mike was rather entertained considering it was the first time he had to deal with crazy angry Chris in the line up.  Besides that confrontation I would have to say it was a rather good time.

1-13-14 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
I really wanted to surf.  The buoys and conditions looked right.  Unfortunately I had a job interview over a UCSB for a Lead Cook position.  With better pay, working conditions, and benefits then my current job it makes sense to move on in life. There is also plenty of room for upward maneuverability unlike my current situation where my neck is bent from perpetually being pressed up against the ceiling.  I got to the interview and it took over an hour with six people grilling me with questions.  Luckily for me they were all out of some restaurant management text I used when I was in culinary school and I nailed it.  Thanks to that bullshit dragging on I was like twenty minutes late to work.  I heard later that besides Strand everything else I would have been able to surf was far from good.  Here is a picture of Strand from the afternoon taken by my boy Mike.

1-12-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
I had a later start then I would have like.  I don’t know why either, but I was tired as fuck this morning.  Mike hit me up and I told him to meet me at Emma.  I wanted to have a look at Rincon but with my time constraints it was not realistic.  In order to get the best bang for my buck Emma made the most sense.  I got there and it looked marginal at best and pretty crowded.  All the peaks were working again and I saw a few nuggets and despite the side shore/on shore wind there were barrels.  With no other real options we paddled.  Right off the bat I started getting some fun ones.  I couldn’t stick an air reverse to save my life, but found some fun ones.  Then on my last wave I got shacked off my ass backside.  I must say, another fun session.

1-11-14 No Surfing: 3-5 ft
Yeah, to say I blew it this morning would be an understatement.  Bizarro and I decided to make an appearance at the Wild Cat.  What was suppose to be a “light night” turned into a full fledged night in Fancytown.  That being said I was feeling pretty shitty this morning when I woke up.  Trevor said Emma was average, although later texted me that it was “a barrel fest, sorry man”.  I heard Rincon was good but stupid packed.  I was going to see about getting a few at Mesa Lane since I had such a late start, but then decided to bag it and just hang with my girl before I had to go to work.

1-10-14 AM Session: 2-4 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 27
Holy shit was Emma firing, I mean firing.  It was a fucking skate park out there.  Everything one could ever want in a wave was happening, barrels, air sections, turns, bowls, lines.  Trevor, Mike and I pulled up and were rather stoked by the sick off shore offerings in front of us.  The Toll Booth peak, Inside Overhead Peak, and the Life Guard Tower were breaking decent.  For the first half hour or so the crowd was light too.  Then word must of got out and a group of SB guys were having a total bro down on the Toll Booth peak that was at least ten strong.  I love when everyone calls all of their friends.  Still there were plenty of waves.  I nabbed a sick right that sucked up and got me shacked off my ass, and stuck some sick little airs.  It was so much fun I was late to work yet again.  Since I don’t really give a shit about my job at  the moment who cares.  Maybe the winter is turning around after all.

1-9-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
My plan was to surf Rincon considering I had a severe lack of time and had been seeing small waves up top the pats few days while driving by.  Sure enough there was a wave there, but it was also a bit crowded with long boarders.  I was still about to paddle when the wind hard south west ruining what meager offerings there was.  As I walked back toward the parking lot I noticed some spray painted in giant lettering “Remember the Chumash”on the ugly retaining wall build for the new 101 expansion project that has desecrated the once sanctity that was Rincon Point.  I made the Hail Mary run to Emma, which was going off.  It wasn’t big or anything, chest perfect little chest high, off shore runners coming in on the Toll Booth peak.  Trevor was out getting his due and I joined him.  Of course I forgot to fix my tail pad thus had to surf the sess with out a kick.  It was annoying, but the waves were so much fun I didn’t really give a fuck.  There was some idiot with a go pro on his head, who sucked at surfing.  Why is it that the guys who surf the worst feel the most compelled to film themselves surfing badly?  Besides that it was a great session and totally worth being late to work for.

1-8-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
I went down to the Harbor expecting more of the same usual close outs.  In mind it was going to be another day at the Strand.  Upon seeing the Jetty I almost fell down.  All I saw was offshore kill-able corners everywhere with a very light crowd.  Just for shits and giggles Mike and I checked the Shores since the conditions had all the making for a great day there as well.  There is nothing like a good day at the Shores. Although pretty looking it was also small.  Back to New Jetty it was.  I was pumped.  My first wave was unreal.  I dropped into the barrel came out, hit it twice and stuck an air at the end.  With that precedent set I thought it was to be an all time session. Of course “the best plans of Mice and Men go astray”.  About thirty minutes into the session the wind picked up out of the south west, which, although side shore for the spot still made things a bit weird.  Then towards the end of the session it came down a bit and conditions glassed off.  Unfortunately by then my shoulder started to really bother me and I lost the kick on my tail pad making it a bit frustrating to say the least.  Still a great surf none the less. It just reminded me of a really fun summer day back in New Jersey.

1-7-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
I met Mike up at the Harbor, where we ran into Trevor and the three of us watched nothing but perfectly closed out barrels.  Over it Trevor bailed to what I thought was the smallest Emma Wood ever, while we cruised to Strand.  In Trevor’s defense he did have to work back in the Barb around 1pm. We checked the middle and noticed some stretched but work-able lefts more toward the South end.  With the rising tide it could hopefully only get better.  At first I was finding nothing but close outs and blowing the few corners that came my way.  As the tide filled in I managed a few decent lefts towards the end.  Finally the deep freeze set in cause the water was way colder then the previous day and I just wanted to get the fuck out of there.  In my lament this left came right to me, doubled up and went square.  I got shacked and called it a day.  When we got back to Mike’s care we noticed some idiot threw wet sand at it.  Glad to see that Strand localism is still in full effect.  Whoooot!

1-6-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
The run of the most annoying string of swells I have ever experienced in my life finally came to an end.  I could have surfed today.  Heard New Jetty had a few little waist high ones and offshore winds.  After Yesterday I figured I would save my gas.  Looks like waves for the next five days at least anyway.  I poked around the garden, fucked around on the internet and now its time to go to work  So exciting….

1-5-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
It was my first day back at work today meaning I only had a short window to surf.  It actually did me a favor cause instead of car surfing for three hours I just went and surfed.  The Jetty was clean with nice off shore winds.  Unfortunately it was also crowded, small and fat with the tide.  I was there so I paddled anyway.  I got a few but overall the tide and waves were just way too weak to make it all that fun.  I decided to just head into work early.  Beat not surfing.

1-4-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
Pat hit me up in the morning that he was going to Jalama with the intention of scoring Redemption Reef again (if your lost check out “Finding New Spots” Blog).  How could I pass up another day up north and I also wanted to give that reef ago.  It helped too that there was some new NW on the buoy. We got up there and Tarantella’s was packed, solid 35 heads out.  When I looked toward’s Redemption there were bunch of people sitting on Heather’s (my name for the left I surfed a few weeks back).  I thought maybe those people were there because of this blog and considered hanging myself.  Then I decided to fuck it and go surf.  Redemption was a bit high so we decided to build a little beach hut.  While doing so we also kept a keen eye on the surf, which was steadily getting better.  We got out there and it was super fun.  I got plenty of sick rights and was sticking some solid airs on the inside, which later when the tide drained I saw was filled with angry jagged rocks.  Guess I dodged a bullet there.  As the tide got lower the left got really fun and it had a money air section.  About the two hour mark the tide got crazy low and a few more sketch rocks began to pop up everywhere, making the left unsurfable. Then the wind came up a bit SW cause a weird chop on the left.  Overall it was fucking solid surf in my book.

1-3-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
After a little break I noticed there were still a few waves coming in at T’s and it was very clean.  Things were a bit drained out, but I figured we were there why not paddle.  Mike and I gave the left a try.  It was shallow as fuck and unfortunately a clean up set spooked Mike on the rocks.  I got one really sick left tube before the line up got invaded by a crowd of eight, far too many for what was coming in.  I paddled over the right which was way heavier and more fun anyhow.  I took some real beatings over there.   On the way back I had a message from my boss telling me I dont have to begin work till Sunday.  Looks like a bonus day!

1-3-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 45
Mike met me up in SB and we cruised up for a Jalama day.  I thought it was to be my last day off before having to return to work and as I always say what better way to spend a day then at Jalama.  We got there and immediately the wind began to pick up out of the NW.  I threw one of my usual parking lot tantrums before we walked towards Cracks and Tarantella’s.  T’s was too high and crowded meanwhile I saw some choice head high plus corners coming into Cracks.  We got out there and the wind died.  I managed to pick off a few good lefts and stuck a sizable ally-oop.  Then the wind came up and I paddled over to the right at Tarantella’s.  That was the best move I could have done. The right was solid and I was scoring 5-8 turn rides.  I got one that I linked into so well it could have been a 9 if it were being scored.  It was a great little session.

1-2-14 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I met Mike up at the Harbor knowing with the tide and lack of swell it would most likely be our best bet.  Although a bit fat the crowd was light and it was by Harbor standards rather clean.  We paddled and at first things were pretty slow.  To make matters worse I had a floppy back tail kick working against me as well.  Still I managed some good lefts.  I had one I got a decent barrel on came out and hit twice.  It was far from all time but better then not surfing, which may unfortunately be the theme for this year.  After that I had to go to LA to handle some business.  Mike decided to come along and we had a romp around Chinatown and Downtown.  As much as I despise LA I must say it was a fun day and change of events.  Tomorrow we are going for a Jalama mission.

1-1-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
How could anyone of you even think that I would be able to get a morning session in on New Years Day?  Maybe if I decided to paddle out still drunk from partying till the sun came up. Believe it or not I have had nights like that, where I got down till the sun came up then walked down to the beach for a drunken surf.  Not all that advisable folks.  Anyhow New Years Eve was as amazing as always.  True I didn’t remember all of it but I do remember making it to the bells.  That is way more then I did last year.  my girl, Bizarro and I rolled out to the Cat Dressed to impress. I was in all white from head to toe.  My lady had on this sexy black dress with as slight up the side Jessica Rabbit style.  Bizarro in his black tuxedo.  Look for pictures soon.  Finally by around 3pm I dragged myself out of the house.  My girl came along.  I figured I would just surf Rincon on the drained out tide.  Turns out everyone else had that same idea and there was absolutely no parking.  That always means its too crowded for me.  After car surfing all the way to Emma Wood.  I decided to check Pitas on a last ditch effort.  It looked like complete shit.  Had I not stopped to tie my shoe I would have completely missed out.  As I was tying my shoe I looked back and saw a solid three wave set come through.  With that in mind I paddled.  I started up top and found a few ok ones.  Then I hit my head on the reef on a failed air attempt.  I looked down towards Faria and saw a few there.  I worked my way down the point and had a few racers there.   It was far far far from the best Pitas ever, but at least I started the year with a few waves and I had a good time.