Surfing Ruined My Life

January 2017 Surf Session

1-31-17 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 64
Considering the swell, tide and wind it behooved me to cruise back south to the Harbor.  I actually had a look at New Jetty first cause the sand at the Wedge is rather good.  it was a little too high and fat for that.  I settled on the River bar once again.  The crowd was solid and the wave really only is one peak.  The wind was off shore and there were more leaving then coming so I paddled.  Right off the bat I pulled into a sick little double up tube.  Despite the pack I was managing to get my share, being the fact that I knew everyone out and we were all taking turns.  An hour into it the wind came up out of the south and basically cleared the line up.  Though a bit torn up I had the place to myself and was not complaining.  At first I was a bit bummed about losing my job, but steadily I am remembering that no one does unemployment better then me.

1-30-17 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 64
The swell was down a tad and the tide high this morning.  The wind was light off shore and I decided to have a look at how some of the River Mouth bars have been since all of the rain and swell.  Erosion from the storm was the worst I have ever seen it down there.  As a result the entire line up was a deep hole with the exception of the actual River Mouth, which was opened about thirty feet wide.  The waves were actually breaking into the River.  There was a left running down the end of the Mouth with a light crowd on it.  As it turned out the wave was a bit too fast and sets were very inconsistent.  One out of every ten waves were make-able and one out of twenty were actually decent. I got a few, but over all I think I should have waited for low tide Rincon.  The wild life was out in full force including an adolescent six foot great white that emptied the line up for a few moments.

1-29-17 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 78
Once again the terrible deep morning high tide kept me home.  I made some breakfast and chilled with my chick a bit.  In the afternoon on the dropping tide I headed out. I heard there were waves on the North End of Silver Strand and that the wind was light.  Still I checked a few other spots on the way down.  Ultimately Strand was the best of the worst.  it was well overhead and the crowd was actually very manageable for the Strand on a Saturday.  The North End isn’t my favorite wave, but for whatever reason I was thriving on the south left peak.  I managed one really deep barrell and a few fun rights. it was nothing special, but I was stoked I paddled.

1-28-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 56
The tide was super high early and the swell on the way down.  Besides Rincon I figured it would be too small for the points.  The wind was offshore in Oxnard thus I headed for the Strand.  As soon as I got to Ventura the wind switched onshore.  Out of options I saw a few coming in at Emma with a light crowd and paddled.  My first wave was a sick on and I managed three solid turns on it.  After that wind got super hard onshore, the tide got too low and the crowd doubled. Over it I paddled to the south peak hoping for some semblance of a left.  There wasn’t.  The crowd died down since the waves went to absolute shit.  I paddled back over to the North Peak, attempted to get a few more and called it a day.

1-27-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 44
The new swell had definitely arrived.  Unfortunately it wasn’t big enough for the low-pro spots to be fun and being it was Friday the crowds were in full force.  I had a look at Hammonds early, but the swell just was not big enough and what was coming through was all torn up by the strong ENE winds in Ventura and Oxnard.  I went on a little sea glass walk instead and found lots of nice pieces.  Ryan had a look at the beaches and confirmed that they were walled out with the exception of south strand which was small and crowded.  I headed south where every point was pretty much packed.  I resolved on just floating around down by Faria to see what I could get. At first I was just about over it.  The waves had an East ribbon up the faces, most were closing out and it was packed.  Then a solid set came through.  The first two were stretched.  The third was a winner.  There was a random kid inside of me paddling, but I was not about to watch him blow a solid runner.  I burned the kid and pulled into the barrel.  I ended up getting barreled three times on that one.   After that all my waves had multiple tube sections.  My last one ran to Mondos and I got four tubes on it.  Talk about an impromtu super session.

1-26-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 56
I blew it today.  My chick and I hit the road from Big Bear round 11 am.  This got me back in the 805 with just enough time for an afternoon surf.  I checked Rincon first and though not bad it was a little small, inconsistent and crowded for my tastes.  From there I spent the  next hour car surfing and ate up all my time.  I should have just paddled Rincon and got it over with.

1-25-17 No Surfing: 4-6+ ft
I was in Big Bear with my girl for her Birthday.  There was over four feet of new cover on the ground and we found ourselves enjoying a rapture of a storybook winter wonderland.  I hate being away from the ocean and missing surf, but I am glad we got to have such a wonderful experience together.

1-24-17 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Sand Spit
Time in Water: 1,5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 2
I have been avoiding Sand Bar like the plague this entire swell.  Sure its been firing, but it has also been packed.  That Surfline cam they put up last year has really become a game changer as far as the crowds are concerned.  I woke up and checked said cam and sure enough it was still macking, even on the high tide.  There were around ten guys out.  I had a limited amount of time since I promised my girl I would take her up to Big Bear to enjoy the snow for her Birthday.  I really wanted to get my turn at the spit this swell.  I paddled and despite the crowd there were plenty of waves coming through.  Despite the fat tide some were throwing out.  I have never seen high tide Sand Bar work so well.  There were some really fun ones.  I was a bit out of shape for the wave since I have been forsaken it the past few years.  The session was a good wake up call for me.  Lately I have been taking the easy way out only surfing waves that aren’t crowded and coping out on surfing good waves for less crowd. When it is crowded lately have been not nearly as aggressive as I used to be. I know I am getting older, but I’m not that old.  I had two or three sick one all the way down the break wall that stoked me out.

1-23-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 12
Once again there was more stormy surf to be contended with.  Sand Spit looked good and to be honest was probaly the best option. I didn’t want to deal with the crowd.  I thought about Naples or El Capitan.  I figured the wind to hard for Naples and suspected tough crowds at the captian.  I was passing Sharks and saw a few waves going down the point with only a few guys out. Hoping for the best I paddled.  The wind was a bit funky and the surf still pretty torn up out there.  I had a few off the bat that were ok.  Then Ryan and Gordo paddled out and the wind went to complete shit.  The only redeming quality to the surf was four decent barrels and one double barrel through the inside section.  I should have swallowed my pride and surfed in the crowd some place good.  No photo cause there really isn’t a good vantage point at Sharks.

1-22-17 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 12
The wind was hard SE, SW, WSW and NW back and forth all day. The end result was gnarly stormy conditions in most places.  I heard there was some off shores in Ventura, but didn’t trust the stormy waters. Around three the wind died down and Gabe and I went for a look. Though not anything great we decided to surf Sharks since no one was out and we saw a few from the 101.  Gabes Aussie friend Justin met up with us.  It was really stormy out there despite being a bumpy glass.  Waves were coming in from every direction making catching a good one or any wave for that matter very difficult. I got lucky on my third wave and pulled into a double up that I stood straight up in before escaping doggy door.  It was like trying to surf in a flushing toilet.  I floated down the point and found that the very bottom section off the rock jetty was peeling and even hallow on the right ones.  We all got a few here as the darkness was approaching.  Somehow I got sick little tube on my last one.  No photo cause it was pouring out.

1-21-17 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 12
Just about every surfer capable of being in the Santa Barbara area decided to surf Sand Spit leaving that option sunk.  I heard El Capitan was packed and assumed the same of the Goleta points.  Out of options I paddled at Sharks where on most days a crowd of ten would be heavy. Today there were easily thirty guys on the point.  I didn’t recognize anyone and it seemed the majority didn’t really know where to sit.  I back doored the peak and snagged an inbetweener off the pack. After that I caught a few really solid set waves down the point. Instead of the crowd dropping off about ten super frothers paddled.  Maybe they were working off their Sand Spit frustrations, but it became a shit fight for the good ones.  I got a few more.  Ultimately the crowd and average conditions got me over it so I bailed.  I did manage one sick little shack through the inside section.

1-20-17 PM Session: 5-7+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 13
Miles Driven: 58
I set out to surf El Capitan, but as I will soon relay the odds stacked up way too high against me.  Fist off my usual route to the 101 was closed due to a landslide.  Then the next on ramp I came too was closed due to flooding.  Finally I was able to get on down near Montecito thus decided to check Sharks.  It was all torn up so I u-turned and headed north.  When I got to El Capitan the freeway exit was closed and there were emergency and New crews all over the place.  Turns out a flash flood tore up the camp ground pretty gnarly in the morning.  I turned around at Refugio which actually didn’t look half bad and pulled over on the south bound side of the 101 where a handful of surfers were gathered.  There were three guys in the water and absolutely no access through the park.  The only way down was to hike from the north over 2 miles away along a sketchy debris filled coastline.  I ran into my friend Nate whom was also eager to surf.  We decided to make a charge for Naples with his friend Scott.  We suited up in the lot due to the inclimate weather and made the trek.  To our surprise it was way more manageable then we thought and not as crazy big as I had feared.  We paddled Seals and all got cleaned up by a huge ten foot set paddling out.  I luckily made it through the least scaved. From there we traded off unruly way over head peaks.  The line up was super shifty and washy.  I did catch a few sick ones, but overall it was a lot of work.  It was an adventure for sure.  No photo cause I didn’t take my phone as a result of the rain.

1-19-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven:42
For the next few days it looks like we are going to be encompassed by a lot of weather and with if lots of wnw swell.  Today was the start and all signs pointed to El Capitan.  I cruised and though not epic there was a wave coming through.  Considering the wind and the variable conditions I paddled.  I caught a few runners and even one barrel. My first one was my best and went down the full length of the point.  The rest of my day was spent running errands in Ventura.  Good times.

1-18-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 56
I wanted to surf Rincon.  Thinking it was a Tuesday morning with average swell in the water I pulled up to the ‘Con stoked for a surf.  Sure enough it was fun despite the fact that it was packed for what was coming in.  I have surfed days twice as good with half the crowd.  If I didn’t have work I probably would have paddled out.  Over it I had a look down the coast.  Pitas was tiny.  Emma had a few guys on it, though small it was off shore and I saw a few barrels.  Sure enough I got shacked on my first three waves.  The ones that weren’t tubes were kill-able. Towards the end of my surf Virs and his crew paddled and clogged it.  I moved over to the left and scored a sick left tube to end things on.  Unfortunately traffic was shit through Carp and I was an hour late to work. Oh well, at least I got barreled.

1-17-17 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 58
I got up early to get a surf in before work.  Considering the tide and swell I was hoping to get Pitas.  It was already crowded and not very good for what was coming through.  From there I went to Emma, which was a bit too closed out with all the ground swell.  Ryan called and said the point looked good with a light crowd considering.  It had looked good there on the cam so I decided why not paddle.  Right off the bat I had a few good ones.  It was a bit soft, but definitely running through Pipes.  It didn’t take long for the place to get packed and soon the entire line up was clogged with easily a hundred guys.  I managed a few more then went in.  If I knew I was going to be forced to endure a crowd I would have just surfed Rincon.  I think I always need to surf C-Street once a season to remind me why I avoid the place like the plague.

1-16-17 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 34
The buoys were all reading really west and long period.  I had a look around at Hammonds and some of the other Montecito points.  They were all shockingly small.  Leaving me feeling a bit gypped I decided to wait for the next tide in the hopes more swell would show.  Around two I had look at Lead Better and it was solid chest to head with 8 wave sets.  That was enough to send me north.  I was going to surf El Cap when I decided to check Naples from the hill and sure enough it looked solid with an almost nonexistent crowd.  My girl and I made the walk and sure enough there were plenty of waves coming through with only about five guys at Seals.  I paddled up a Cracks where it was  a bit more consistent and no one was out.  It was very shifty up there and positioning with the long period swell was nearly impossible.  The lines were super fast and sectiony too.  After a few I decided to move down to Seals which though still rather fast was way more make-able.  It wasn’t the best Naples I have ever surfed, but it was certainly a good start for feeling out my new board.

1-15-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hobsons
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 56
My day began battling with the very “competent” call center operators over at Sprint.  Those of you who know me know how much I enjoy dealing with such people. Last week I added my girl to my cell phone plan and was suppose to get an iphone for her as of Tuesday this week.  The phone never came and therefore the battle ensued.  End result I ended up having to go down to Ventura to pick up the phone and was credited $200 toward my next two bills.  On the way back I had a look around hoping the new swell would have filled in a bit.  With drained out tide and crazy long period there was not much to write home about.  End result was a desperation paddle on my fish at Hobsons, which from what I saw was the best of the worst.

1-14-17 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
Miles Driven: 56
Last night we all hit the Kitty pretty hard.  I had not been out since New Years Eve and had not gotten drunk since Christmas Eve.  Needless to say I was feeling a bit out of sorts this morning.  I laid low till the afternoon.  Light winds were predicted all day so I wasn’t to worried about my decision to party last night.  I headed south and had a look at Pitas. There was a definite wave up top, but the crowd was obnoxious.  The crowds were obnoxious everywhere.  Despite the impending negative low tide I had a look at Emma Wood.  Sometimes if the sand is right and the swell short period wind swell Emma can still be fun on low tide.  The wind was a bit too hard for the west facing beachies of Ventura and Oxnard.  Emma only had five guys on it and small kill-able peaks up and down the beach.  I decided to take the fish cause with the wind it appeared to be a bit soft.  As I was out there the wind got light and conditions glassed off making me regret not grabbing my short board.  There were a a pack of weekend warriors that paddled just after me and the fucking kooks kept clogging the line up and getting in the way on some of the good ones.  Still I managed to get mine.  I even managed to get a decent barrel and came out.

1-13-17 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 44
I really had my mind on surfing one of the points on low tide this afternoon.  I knew Rincon was out.  With the Classic being this weekend and a Friday the ‘Con was sure to be a zoo.  The swell was still clocking in pretty west leaving me to believe that the Faria section of Pitas would be fun.  It was about mid tide when I got there.  The crowd over all was light and I saw enough wrapping into the middle of the point to deem it worthy of a paddle.  I caught a few up top and actually it wasn’t bad up there.  I saw plenty of sets swinging down the point thus I worked my way down to Faria.  Though not the best there were plenty of runners.  I had a few tubes and caught two all the way to Mondos.  The current was rough with the stiff NW winds blowing down the point and after about two and half hours of constant paddling I was spent.

1-12-17 No Surfing: 4-6+ ft
Unfortunately all I had available to me was a morning session.  A 7 ft high tide, shitty south winds and could rainy skies kept me out of the game.  I am sure I could have found some soft ones up top at Rincon, but I just couldn’t muster up the motivation. I had a tasting at work that I hope went well.  Im pretty sure if these clients don’t sign I am going to lose my job.  Whatever it was a good run while it lasted and I really never thought it would last this long or that I would have become executive chef there in the first place.  All it does is allow me to find a few opportunity someplace else. I heard Rincon and the rest of the south points were sick mid day.

1-11-17 PM Session: 1-3 ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 98
My day started chasing waves down south all the way to Emma Wood and finding absolutely nothing.  Over it I decided to go to work early and try and get out for an afternoon session.  Luckily work was light and I was able to get on the road by 3:30.  Judging by the buoys and the Sand Spit cam I gambled on El Cap.  Though small there were some knee to waist high waves running all the way down the point.  I had my fish so I figured why not paddle.  What ensued was a G.I. Joe rip sess.  I got so many miniature fun ones it was hilarious.  As the tide began to come back in there were some plus sets.  My last wave I caught mid point and ran all the way to the bottom.  I rode this little squat barrel through to Cove then stuck an air reverse on the close out.  There was still about 15 minutes of light left, but I figured I wasn’t going to get one better then that.

1-10-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 56
The tide was crazy high and swampy at Rincon.  I could have groveled it on my fish, but all Gabe had was a short board and I was not about to subject him to such torture.  We compromised on Emma Wood, which was not a compromise at all considering.  The North Peak and Toll Booth Peak were both working sending plenty of waves with a light crowd and glassy conditions.  Stoked we both began manhandling what was on offer.  I was having a really good day on my short board.  For me it was one of those sessions where I could do no wrong and was sticking everything.  Gabe had a few nuggets as well.  It got busy toward the end.  By then I had to go to work anyway.

1-9-17 AM Session: 2-3 ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
Miles Driven: 42
The weather last night and the past few days has been crazy, thunder, lighting, wind, heavy rain.  I was expecting a slight jump up in the wind swell.  When I woke up the buoys were ready 5 ft at 255 at 9 seconds.  I knew with that kind of swell and period I could find something special.  My first thought was to head towards Rincon. While passing Sharks I noticed enough surf to cause me to take a u-turn back to El Capitan.  Upon pulling up it was slightly smaller then I would have hoped and as dirty as dirty can be.  I am sure that I am getting at the very least a sinus infection on top of a potential ear infection and maybe even Hepatitis.  I wanted to go back to Rincon, but the crowd was light and Gabe talked me into paddling. As it turned out though small the lines were perfect and with the crowd there were fun waves for everyone.  Gabe and I had a ball.  I would say it is the best surf I have had since Christmas Day at Pitas.  I love weird little sneaker west wind swells. Hopefully this is the start of a turn of luck for the winter.

1-8-17 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
The cams and reports all looked the same of as yesterday.  I was not about to drive all the way down to Ventura to not surf or grovel with the masses.  Instead my girl was having a little birthday party for her grandmother with a mariachi band. I helped out by catering the event for just food cost.  Good times.

1-7-17 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Miles Driven: 64
My girl and I headed south to Ventura to do a bit of shopping and hopefully some surfing.  We pulled up to Ventura Harbor and there were a few tiny knee to waist high waves coming through, but it was very drained with the tide and rather crowded.  I thought it would make sense to run our errands, then have a look on incoming.  We met up with Gabe for another look in the afternoon, but it was still really tiny and very crowded.  I watched Dane mess around on a single fin.  I decided to just go for a sea glass walk with my girl at Rincon.
1-6-17 AM Session: 2-3, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 64
I finally had a day off in over two weeks. I really wanted to surf.  Ryan called and said he was paddling New Jetty on his long board.  It was nothing special, about waist to chest.  The wind was off shore and the crowd was light.  Stoked I grabbed my fish and paddled.  There were plenty of fun ones to be had for the tiny size and the crowd stayed rather manageable the entire time.  It wasn’t anything amazing, but with the way this winter is shaping up beggars cant be choosers.

1-5-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
There was a slight up tick in the surf.  That being said it was still very small and terrible conditions.  With all the rain it was not worth getting sick for.

1-4-17 No Surfing: 0-1 ft
There absolutely wasn’t anything to surf and it was raining.  I had work to do anyway and committed the day to that.

1-3-17 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Surfer’s Knoll
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 64
West decided to make an impromptu visit. I had to do a little bit of clean up and organizational work early.  Judging by the forecast I knew the afternoon would be our best bet to get any type of waves.  West was eager for a surf thus we went on the hunt.  New Jetty looked the best yet again.  Unfortunately school must have just gotten out making it mobbed with kids. There was an alright looking small left coming in at the Knoll with no one on it so we paddled.  It was all sorts of small weak and terrible, but it was good to catch up with my boy.

1-2-17 PM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 64
After missing so many days in a row of surfing I just had to get some waves today.  Ryan had called and said not to bother.  Gabe and I were frothy.  Adela wanted to go too.  We cruised south on a wing and a prayer.  Sure enough there were some small waves with side shore/ off shore conditions.  There were scattered peaks up and down the River Mouth.  New Jetty seemed the most consistent and there were only three guys on it.  We paddled and found a few lefts and rights to take advantage of.  I guess we made it look too much fun cause it wasn’t long before the crowd got on it.  Still it was nice to surf.  Afterward we enjoyed a repast at Lalo’s.

1-1-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I had a very early wedding brunch to work.  With only three and half hours of sleep and working nearly 50 hours over the past three days I was beat.  The service went off with out a hitch.  I got finished around 3:30.  I could have tried to surf, but to exert all that effort and energy for a grovel just didn’t seem poignant to me.