Surfing Ruined My Life

December 2012 Surf Sessions

December Surf Sessions in Review

12/31/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
With a significant drop in the swell Trevor and I headed  to Ventura harbor figuring it was our best bet.  The tide was a bit fat swamping things out and adding a really bad back wash to the faces of the waves.  The wind was offshore and we drove so we might as well have a paddle. We got out there and it was terrible, really soft and wonky and the water was fucking freezing. I was just about over it as soon as I paddled out.  Trevor found a mysto barrel right off the bat.  Then after about an hour it got pretty fun and I snagged a few good ones.  Soon after the crowd showed up and the wind shortly after that.  Hey you have to surf on the last day of the year right?

12/30/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 14
The buoys and the wind all claimed that low tide Rincon should have been super fun.  Turns out it was all a fucking lie.  Trevor and I got there and it was small and crowded for what was coming in.  Then we decided to car surf Sea Cliffs on a hail Mary, finally deciding to bag surfing altogether.  On the way back we saw some decent ones come down the point and decided to just paddle it.  It was pretty bad.  I worked my way from Indy down once.  Ended up getting a really good one in the cove to end on that I got about 9 turns on.  All it takes is one right?

12/29/12 PM Session: 5-7+ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2hrs 15mins
Waves Surfed: 25
I woke up on my couch yet again with a pile of crumpled up tortilla chips all over me around 8am.  Another failed night at the Cat.  Failure?  I think not. All my friends were there, my favorite bar tenders were working.  I had a hell of a time.  I looked out my window and the wind was onshore and the tide super high.  Awesome I could sleep in.  By noon a slew of calls started coming in about how the wind was off shore in Oxnard.  Hollywood had some good sand the previous day so I figured I would just go there.  Trevor and I rolled down there and it was fucking firing although a bit inconsistent.  Just head high plus barrels every where with virtually no crowd.  My boy Ryan was surfing at Orange House and we joined him.  From there it was on.  I got a triple barrel on one wave and had some crazy deep ones.  Then this freak set of like 15 10 foot waves came in and cleaned us all up.  I was pushed all the way back to the beach then the reverse rip was so bad I almost thought I was not going to make it back to the line up.  Besides that it was a pretty unreal session.  I told my boys “now if I can only get laid at the bar tonight this may be one of the best days of my life”.

12/28/12 PM Session: 4-6+ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Last night at the Cat Sam and I were working it pretty hard.  We almost had two, but in the end lost out to the designated driver.  One drunk female  friend + One Sober female friend + two drunk dudes = The two dudes go home and masturbate alone.  I woke up around ten and Trevor, back in town from Colorado hit me up and wanted to surf.  Things were a bit fat with a big morning high tide and I was in no rush.  My head hurt from all the booze and my neck and back were sore cause I fell asleep on my couch again.  I got to Trevor’s round 11. Ryan was claiming Hollywood.  That was the plan till the 101 was all backed up because of construction bringing it down to one lane all the way through La Conchita.  We checked Rincon since we could get there through back roads.  Although clean and good lines it was a bit busy, inconsistent and small for our liking.  We got back in the traffic and slogged it out till sea cliffs where we checked Emma, though it sucked.  The wind had this SSE gnar and it was causing terrible side chop.  New Jetty actually takes that wind pretty good so we checked there.  Some corners did exist although it was rather walled.  Neither one of us were in the mood for that kind of session, me all hung over and Trevor hurting after he fell off a cliff snow boarding yesterday.  Then it was a look at The Shores where it was soft and shitty.  Finally a make it or break it to Hollywood.  We noticed some really nice lefts coming in at Little Sunset and paddled.  Turns out it was way better then it looked.  I had two really big barrels I came out doggy door on, stuck a big ally-oop, and just over all was killing it.  Trevor had some good ones too.  Minus the cold water I would say it was a pretty sick surf session and a pretty ridiculous car surf session as well.  The 50 mile long car surf!!! 

12/27/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 23
I was all sorts of motivated to get a good session in and with the buoys popping, wind offshore, and perfect negative tide Rincon should have been insane.  I got there and from the looks of the lot it was insanely crowded forcing me to park in the top lot.  Figuring it was solid I just suited up and went for it.  When I got down there the cove was packed with groms, kooks and long boarders and it was small.  Now alone I don’t really care for one of these entities couple them together and I was seriously over it.  The top of the point had only about two dozen or so guys out spread along the many sections.  Unfortunately there was a bit of a cross wind causing a strange bump and chop.  My suit was already on so I had to go surf.  I started up at Bates where I got destroyed by a few PGCB’s (see blog “I Heart PGCB’s“) before getting one through Indicator to middle River Mouth.  Backed that up with another strange but Kill-able one into high cove.  There were some strange tubes to be had too.  I ended up taking a real hit trying my luck on double up that ate me alive. I hit the rocks so hard it ripped the top of my bootie and cut my foot.  Nothing serious except the fact that I need a new pair of boots.  I worked my way into the cove towards dark but could not buy a wave that did not close out to save my life. This always sucks cause you want to get a good one in and the light is waning   There was a full moon and a clear night so I had that going for me.  In the dark of the night I saw in front of me a nice wide swinger.  I stroked into it and stood up had a quick night barrel off the drop then ran the thing to the highway.  It was pretty awesome.  The water was black and the crest of the wave just shimmered silver from the light of the moon.  As I was riding I just watched this exquisite silver wall unfolding in front of me with the star filled night sky, all the while traveling towards the full moon which was just peaking over the mountains.  You can’t buy an experience like that folks.

12/27/12 AM  Session: 1-3ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Bad call! Nah..I knew it was a gamble going into it.  The tide and wind were right and with some rising ground swell and lingering wind swell I thought it could only get better.  Actually when I first pulled up I was over it and about to move on when this old vet started talking my ear off about surfing.  I guess the guy can’t surf anymore as a result of a bad shoulder.  He was in his early 60’s.  The dude starts talking surf to me and right away I knew he was legit cause he made mention of certain spots in both Carp and Gaviota that only the true hardcore would know.  I ended up chatting with the dude for over a half hour.  I felt bad for the man.  He cant surf anymore, but still checks Hammonds every morning cause it is near his house.  For him getting to talk surf with another of his own breed allows him to relive his old times.  Considering I was pretty sure there was nothing special to race off to I enjoyed a conversation.  In the process I saw a few sets and the old guy talked me into a paddle.  after my third wave the wind went a bit too west blowing things out and the tide dropped too fast to allow the new swell to show.  Still I managed a few and I can grovel with the best of them.

12/26/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
I really had anticipated a super combo beach break action when I went to bed last night.  Then I woke up this morning and the wind was already howling out of the NW. With a late afternoon low tide I figured best bet was to wait.  In the mean time there was plenty of ding repair to be handled.  I hate fixing dings in my apartment.  Now with the wood floors and new furniture there really isn’t any where I want to mess up.  My default has been the bathroom since besides paint everything else in there is trash anyway and the next major project when I fall into some more bread.   Luckily I am a pretty skilled ding guy and very versed in ghetto everything.  I finished the boards, ate some lunch and then cruised to Rincon.  Of course I forgot that it was a weekday and just because I am off does not mean the rest of the world doesn’t work.  I landed right smack in the middle of rush hour traffic, which is a bit of joke in Santa Barbara compared to NYC or LA or just about any other city for that matter.  Still it adds an extra twenty minutes to my ‘Con journey.  By the time I got there it was 4:30.  There were some waist high runners but a bit inconsistent to try and surf for under an hour.  It either needed two more feet or more sets.  Rather then fight traffic back into town cause in California rush hour works both ways, I decided to go for a sea glass walk.  I ended up finding some really cool pieces too.  It certainly beat the heck out of getting all wet and cold for what the cove was serving up.  Looks like there should be sufficient wind swell for some action tomorrow.

12/25/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5hrs
Waves surfed: 24
Oh Rincon my favorite place to spend Christmas.  Last year I scored  it, this year I have been scoring it.  The swell was on its way down today, but after a solid six days of hanging tough who could really complain?  It may have been smaller than the previous days, yet things were still pretty flawless out there.  The lines were just as long and it was so clean.  The crowd was light with maybe around fifty spread along the entire point.  I ended up surfing the entire point making four laps from Indy on down.  Today Rincon was showing me all her love.  No matter where on the point I was the best waves of the session kept coming right to me.   Performance wise I was hit or miss.  I had some amazing rides with perfect flow and crisp turns.  Then I had others where I just felt like I was kooking it and being flaily.   Honestly my legs were sore as heck from all the perfect days in a row.  On my last wave I was sitting in the cove in peak position as this perfect set was rolling in.  I let the first two go opting for the third.  As I am position for it this long boarder who had just paddled out turns and swings around behind.  I had to burn his ass.  Sorry but you are not going to just paddle out and catch a wave I was waiting for especially when the crowd is light and everyone mellow.  I call boxed it.   Last night Sam, his Asian roommate and I rolled to the Cat hoping for some desperate Christmas hoes.  Turns out it was dead, oh well.

12/24/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
“I am just going to kill off what is left in this bottle of Tequila if that is alright by you.”  This was at 9am this morning mind you after this chill artist chick Bizarro brought home to my place after last call, kept me awake with her yapping.  He subsequently left her here at around 4am cause he had to catch the Airbus to LAX.  I really did not know the protocol given the situation. I mean he left her behind, but technically it was his swoop.  I let her run the show thus we just ended up talking till 10am.  After she left I passed out till around 2pm.  Still all fucked up from the way way way too out of control run of party this past weekend I decided to watch some Seinfeld on the couch, besides the wind was on it anyway.  Finally I mustered up enough strength to go see what the ‘Con had to offer.  The wind was WSW, devil wind and the line up and swell torn to pieces.  From what I could tell things were slowly cleaning up and there were still some chest high plus waves coming through.  With only about 15 guys spread out through the cove it seemed a no brainer to at least give it a try.  New Zealand Chris was out getting some stoked as anything on it.  I had some decent ones for sure.  Its the queen and even at her worst she can usually serve up a six to nine turn ride.  

12/23/12 PM Session: 3-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Another night of fruitless drunken debauchery left me in really bad shape this morning.  I ended up sleeping in till past noon got up and felt like shit.  I took it easy just chilling around the house waiting for another evening crack at Rincon.  Sure enough it was just another flawless day at the Queen.  It was a bit smaller and a tad less consistent.  Still there were some real gems.  Cory Arrambide was ou,t as was Yadin Nicol.  I had some really great waves through both the cove and River mouth sections.  My legs were so tired I could barely walk up the trail.  There is more surf to be had all week!!!!!

12/22/12 PM Session: 3-5+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Wow I went to fucking fancy town last night.  Too much booze, too much party and a bit too much gnar for one night if you ask me.  Pat and I woke up at around 1pm all fucked up and hung over with little if any recollection of what happened. We got some breaky at Garrett’s since neither of us were in any condition to surf at that moment. Also it was cold, rainy and there appeared to be a SE wind plaguing things anyhow.  After a fine repast we got our act together and cruised to Rincon where it was mother fucking firing.  Things had glassed off.  The lines were perfect and there were barrels everywhere.  I had about six waves through the cove that could have been the waves of other’s lives, as for me it was just another perfect day at Rincon.  I got one in the cove where I was in the barrel for nearly the entire ride.  Had to easily be a ten second plus tube.  Sooooooooooooooooooo Goooooooooooooooooooooooood.   Now its time for Round three at the Wild Cat.

12/21/12 AM Session: 4-6+, Rincon
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Remember the degenerate coke fiend black chick that locked herself in my bathroom last Saturday night?  If not check the “We certainly could have a worse lot in life” blog for more on that.  Last night she struck again with her cracked out floozy antics.  Unfortunately my boy Pat fell victim to her bull shit losing twenty bucks in the process.  Our only hope is that maybe she died from a bad batch or over dose.  Lets keep our fingers crossed.  Needless to say we woke up a bit later then usual.  The swell was suppose to stay down and slowly build through out the day.  We cruised to Rincon and it was fucking firing.  There was a bit of wind on it and the crowd was immense hence my low wave count.  Every wave was a keeper.  I started up and the River Mouth and worked my way down.  I ran into Jason Fiest of J7 surfboards and its a good thing I did cause as it turns out my blank has yet to be started.  I had some really sick ones up top and some amazing ones in the cove, one of which I hit ten times then stuck a huge clean BS air reverse.   There may have not been the quantity I wanted but it was certainly quality.  As I was leaving I saw Bobby just destroy one all the way through the cove.  Pat on the other hand fell victim to the crowd.  That is why they call Rincon the Queen of the Coast and not the King cause sometimes she can be a real bitch.  I will take this session to the bank.

12/20/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 24
Damn I am an addict.  There was no reason for me to go for another surf today.  I checked the lane at around 3 and saw some little bowls coming in.  It was glassy and looked boostable.  I hit it for the last hour of light.  Right off the bat I had some fun ones.  Killian paddle out, Lindsay showed up.  I ended up sticking a huge BS air reverse almost full rotation.  When I landed it there were these people on the beach and they were all going nuts.  It was a really nice sunset too.  Good times.

12/20/12 AM Session: 5-7+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Talk a bout day of bull shit car surfing.  I went to Rincon and it was smaller then I would have liked.  Then Ryan called  me and said Silver Strand was fun and I should get down there.  I got to Strand and it was barely knee to waist, weak as shit and crowded.  I stopped by Oxnard Shores and it was still smaller then I would have liked and full of bad sand. At that point I was frustrated and over it.  I just went to New Jetty and paddled.  My boys Pat, his roommate and Brady were out making the best of the macking close outs.  The first half hour I was pretty pissed getting nothing but shitty ones.  Then all of a sudden the tide got low enough and this against the grain left started coming in.  Although it was fast it was totally make-able.  From there it became a gnar tube ride fest with the occasional hit section.   It was big.  I had some tubes you could have driven a bus through.  The off shores were so hard you had to really be on your game.  It sort of reminded me of New Jersey in the fall when a hurricane sends ground swell with way too much east in it.  Close outs with the occasional corners.   It was a sick session. I had some keggers.

12/19/12 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Festivus was a success last night.  The Mulligatawny soup I made was to die for.  I was pleasantly surprised by it since it was a very foreign recipe to me.  It actually over powered the entree of Pasta Primavera.  Tim wore a puffy shirt and came as Jerry. His girl Amelia came as early season Elaine.  They won the costume portion of the evening. Ashley brought the marble rye and black and white cookie.  Tim brought Snickers which we all ate with a knife and a fork. Chantelle brought Kenny Roasters Chicken. Danny brought Peach Snapps and Bizarro brought Chocolate Eclairs one of which I ate out of the trash.  JP made a BIG SALAD!  It was the best Festivus ever.  I got up feeling a little sluggish from the previous nights shenanigans.  Oh I almost forgot, everyone had to pin Alfie for the “feats of strength”, not that it was very hard since he was sleeping on the couch all fucking night.  The buoys were looking solid for Rincon or one of the points.  As I was on my way there I decided at the last minute to have a look at Hammonds.  It looked a little wonky on the lower tide and a bit inconsistent.  There were definitely some over head waves and a very light and manageable crowd.  With the rising tide I knew it was only going to get better.  As I expected the session was slow going for the first hour or so, sets very inconsistent.  I was getting over it when all of a sudden it started to fire.  That is how Hammonds is.  Once the tide and conditions are right it just turns on, yet on the other hand it also turns off just as fast.  It became some of the best Hammonds I have surfed in at least a year.  So good and a perfect crowd.  I had so many keepers it was not even funny.  I almost forgot some how I managed an invite and made a cameo at the Wild Cat VIP holiday party in between cooking and attending my own Festivus event.

12/18/12 AM Session:  2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
I should have gotten there an hour earlier that was pretty much the consensus I had gotten from everyone in the lot.  Really there was no excuse for my tardiness. I woke up at around 8 am but then just procrastinated around the apartment for about an hour or so.  By the time I got there the wind had picked up a bit and the tide got fat.  I was about to bag it when I ran into my friend Dave, who is always on it and yet to lose his east coast stoke.  If he was on it then there was really no real grounds for me not to paddle.  I started up top where it was bigger, but the wind had already torn it to pieces.  Working my way down to the Cove I managed to get a few fun ones.  It was nothing to write home about although still way better then I had expected.  I had two really cherry ones right at the end of my session.  Its Festivus tonight at the Palace! Oh yeah!

12/17/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Two hours of sleep was all I was working with this morning since my idiot friends decided to stay up and smoke on my couch last night till the sun came up.  I should have kicked their asses out but I am too nice of a host as always.  It was Trevor’s last surf before he had to leave for Colorado for eight days.  I am a firm believer of getting in some water time before a trip.  My attitude is if I am going to die in a plane crash at least I got some waves before it all ended.  I dragged myself out of bed and rolled to carp.  We checked the harbor but it was pretty walled with strange backwash from the tide.  Emma was the call. It looked a little funky but I saw a great set of lefts on the south peak when we pulled up.  First half of the session I could not buy a wave out there.  Then as the tide filled in more the life guard tower left began to work fabulously.  Unfortunately I sort of tweaked my knee a little bit on my second wave and had to hold back a little.  Still a really fun sess.

12/16/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 54
What a surf…See blog “We Certainly Could Have a Worse Lot in Life“

12/15/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
God I forgot how amazing life is when you don’t have to go to work.  Last night I went very hard at the Cat with surprisingly absolutely no money or card in my possession thanks to forgetting it at home.  Thanks to a free drink coupon courtesy of the door girl, two of my bartenders working and a private corporate Christmas party I ended up sneaking into stocked with free patron and Stella and consequently thrown out of I manged to get pretty hammered or “Fancy” as my crew and I like to call it.  I knew the tide and conditions were going to be a waste early so I slept in.  Got up around 10 and headed down for a surf.  Things were still pretty fat and somewhat on the small side.  I went to the Harbor but it was mushy and windy.  From there I went to Emma where there were some waist to chest high lefts coming in on the life guard tower peak.  Turned out to be super ripable with great little rampy sections.  I could not bring down an air reverse to save my life, but besides that surfed a pretty decent session.

12/14/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 48
My day started at a rather lackluster 12am turn at the Wild Cat.  At 2am I found myself at the 7-11, the half way point of my drunken stumble home buying a stale glazed doughnut as a consolation prize for the frivolous casual sex I was not having. While on line these two dudes in the low twenties were arguing with the clerk that he locked the booze cooler too early.  I looked at them and in the most Seinfeld like impression said “Thats a shame”.  One of the guys says to me “do you have any bootleg booze to sell us”.  “No I don’t make moonshine or bum wine in my bath tub” I retorted laughing so hard I nearly chocked on my stale pastry.   “Please man I will give you and your boys a ride home and will pay top dollar”.  It was cold out and I really did not want to walk up the hill so I complied and the five of us pilled into his tiny pick up while his buddy laid down in the bed.  Back at my place apparently top dollar was $8.  I scoffed at their pathetic offer and told them to beat it.  Then they coughed up another two in change.  At this point my boy Chris had the samurai sword in his hand.  Finally I agreed to sell them a half bottle of Smirnoff and threw in a beer for good measure.  Another classic Lisanti moment.  Thanks to another 7 foot high tide and small surf I got to sleep in till ten.  Met up with Trevor in Carp and we headed south.  Everything was beat till New Jetty where although high there was an ok wave.  There were these four idiots in river canoes paddling around the line up just waiting to get cleaned up.  I sat there and waited and sure enough the idiots got owned.  It made my day.  Did I mention I frothed like a mother fucker and killed it.  Such a fun ass surf.

12/13/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
It was small sauce today with a very high tide keeping most spots completely not surfable.  I decided to take a must needed rest after a night of bar hopping.  Today was also my last day of work till 2013 provided of course that the world does not end on next Friday.  Look for way more water time and surfing related adventures over the next few weeks.  Yeah baby!!!

12/12/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 19
The conditions in the morning were as clean as can be, unfortunately there was a 6.5ft tide to deal with flooding everything.  JP and I decided to roll to the Ventura swap to kill some time and let the tide drop.  I did not find anything I was really interested in.  Got back to the Jetty and it was crowded as shit and sort of walled.  My boy Pat pulled up and said that Strand was better.  Wanting a fun surf I followed.  By the time I got there it started raining and the wind went south.  I found a few nuggets till the wind got worse and the tide got too low turning things completely off.

12/11/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2.5hrs
Waves surfed: 32
My head was still pounding when I woke up this morning.  I was faced with three options go to hospital and be out a ton of money, sleep in and hope I would not die in my sleep or say fuck it and go surfing.  I choose the latter.  If I am going to die from a brain aneurysm it might as well be in the ocean.  There was little surf at best on tap.  I rolled to New Jetty where things started off a little small.  Then I jumped in and got rocked by a solid over head set of close outs that only New Jetty knows how to serve up.  It was not much to write home about but there were some alright corners.  I made the most of the less then stellar offerings.  As of press time I still have a head ache but so be it.  JP and I enjoyed a prime rib dinner with my famous risotto and roasted asparagus. Yum.  I managed to sneak a beach walk in that included a splendid sunset and went crazy on my saxophone.  If I die in my sleep tonight at least I died living a full day.

12/10/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
Still very little surf on offer this morning and my head was still bothering me.  I really should go see a medical professional.  If only health care in this country was affordable for the poor.  Well sadly it is cheaper for me to die of a head injury then to get treated for one.

12/9/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
WOW talk about going hard last night. I don’t even know where to begin.  Surprisingly I did not black too much out.  Bizzaro, JP and I met up with Brad and Ashley before rolling to the Wild Cat.  I am not super clear on the details at the actual bar but I know it was a fun time.  Some time round last call or on the street we picked up these three bigger girls.  One was do able.  We also ran into Griffen out front as always and somehow all of us piled in the back of a limo and cruised to my place for an after party.  From there it was drunken calamity.  I smoked a bit too much weed, then drank even more booze.  I ended up making out with the best of the three dogs in my yard before she stopped me cause she wanted to be “true to her boy friend” who is currently serving time up at Lompoc maximum security prison.  Yeah he sounds like a real fucking winner.  I was stoked, would have hated myself in the morning if I had fucked that horrid bitch.  Right after that I lost control of my motor skills fell down and hit my head pretty hard.   I have a giant bump on it and will probably be lucky if I don’t die of a brain aneurysm tonight.   If I never write here again you will know how it all ended, being drunk and dumb.  Seems about right.

12/8/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
After a hard night of party I found that I had overslept leaving me no time to surf before work.  I heard it was alright at New Jetty but crowded as usual.  I was tired and stoked to get some extra sleep.

12/7/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 20
After a night of party I found myself a bit sleepy this am.  I was lazy and did not want to go south deciding to check the lane instead which consequently sucked.  Trevor said Emma was the call so I b-lined it south.  Sure enough it was solid chest high plus, light off shore winds and fun little bowls coming in on the North peak and toll booth peak.  The crowd was a bit heavy but there was a decent drift allowing only the strong to survive.  I had some fun ones although did not surf as well as yesterday.  The highlight of the session was that I ran some dude over coming out of a sick little backside pit.  I guess he did not think I was going to make it.  I got shot out really fast and just boom ran right over him.  Luckily no one got hurt and there was no board damage.

12/6/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves surfed: 31
Last night dinner was another success I cooked this pumpkin pasta dish in a pumpkin cream sauce that was to die for.  A perfect fall dish for the “Fall of My Malcontent”.  I made a Paneforte de Siena for dessert that was exquisite.  Everyone had a wonderful time.  This morning I just cruised to Emma Wood after a plumbing problem, the usual backed up main line that I have to deal with here at least twice a year, had me running a bit late.  I got to Emma and there was one guy out it was chest high with light off shore winds and a really nice bowl coming in off the north peak.  I got out there and frothed like a mother fucker.  I was on fire.  I surfed a flawless session. If I was shooting video I could have probably got a two minute video segment out of the session.  I could do no wrong.  I was stoked out the whole day.  What a session.

12/5/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
I really wanted to surf some more after the circus of a New Jetty session I had.  Still in my wet suit and those of you who know me know how much I hate wearing a wet wet suit outside of the water longer then the walk to my car, I headed to Emma Wood for a quick smash and grab session.  I got there and it was solid chest high, glassy and a really nice bowl coming in off the toll booth peak, 3 guys out.  I jumped in and turns out it was super fun.  I frothed.  Stuck two really big clean BS air reverses and overall was on.  I would have surfed longer but my back was beginning to get tired from all the surfing I have been doing lately.  It feels really good to actually be surfing again.

12/5/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
With a severe drop in swell I cruised to New Jetty with the hopes of finding some fun grovel waves.  I was really banking on the new river sand bars but as it turned out they are super deep and must need some serious swell to happen.  There was one peak working and surf school was all over it.  Surf school is my title for this annoying obnoxious band of home schooled groms that always seem to be out frothing whenever I am.  There are about a dozen or so of them and when I surf with them I feel like I am in a heat cause they are super paddley.  I was going to go to Emma when my boy Ryan showed up an was down to paddle. I had not surfed with him in a long time so I opted to join.  I was really hoping the crowd would get over it and lighten.  Instead another five randoms paddled out.  Then another two home schoolers and finally the Coffin bros and Gerlach showed up.  At that point I was tired of fighting for average at best waves.  I did manage a few fun ones but I hate having to fight for waves when all I want to do is have a mellow session.  I was so frustrated when I got out.  I decided to stay in my suit and run to Emma Wood for another surf.

12/4/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2.5hrs
Waves surfed: 52
I could not pick a spot this morning for the life of me.  It was small up here in the Barb.  Winds look light so I cruised to New Jetty.  There was an average looking right bowl coming in going into the jetty.  There were a handful of guys on it, too many for the quality.  On another note it appeared there may be some sick sand bar potential out near the river mouth with the right conditions as a result of all the rain.  With a drop in swell the next few days it could be the call.  I went to Emma and it was packed along the north peak with a bunch of rippers.  I went to Solimar where conditions were as good as could be but the outside reef seemed to be stealing the swell off the beach break.  The right reef is set up incredible right now.  If it were three feet bigger it could have been unreal.  I went back to Emma and forced a paddle.  As I was changing the Coffin bros pulled up and paddled.  I got out there and it was fun as hell.  The rights were good for three turns with the occasional air section and the lefts good for two turns and an air section.  I almost brought down a full rotation fs air reverse coming unstuck on the landing.  Had a sick BS one though, a nice ally-oop and a big bs straight air.  It was a full on froth fest.  Brad Gerlach came out and was killing it.  He hooted me into a really good right.  Bout time I got in a fun session.

12/3/12 AM Session: 2-3ft,  Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 27
Last night at the Wild Cat got a bit out of hand as usual.  After having a gay dude beg to suck my dick out front I was more then over the night.  I woke up around 9 and noticed there was still enough swell to surf town.  I cruised to the Lane and it was glassy with some small bowls rolling through with no one out.  I was on it.  Had the line up to myself for the majority of the session.  Water was unseasonably warm allowing me to shed this pair of old worn out booties I had on.  

12/2/12 No Surfing: 5-7ft
Yeah one could say I totally blew it today.  Last night I decided to get hammered at the Wild Cat for no apparent reason other then to see how drunk I could get and still be coherent.  Three pint glasses full of rum and two fire ball shots later I had my answer. I guess I must have passed out on my couch at some point when I got home since that was where I woke up at around 11 am.  I don’t really care it would have just been more annoying weekend and swell chasing crowds anyway.  Been surfing a bunch lately so whatever.  It is the “Fall of My Malcontent” after all.

12/1/12 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
What a stupid night I ended up having.  Wild Cat was had one of their regular lame ass fashion shows with average to ugly models and even more horrid clothing.  The night was going well till Lindsay showed up drunk off her ass barely coherent. I had to leave before midnight.  Then had to deal with her drunk ass.  Two shitty nights out in row, wtf mate.  Anyhow I did not get as much sleep as I would have liked.  Trevor hit me up again claiming the lane and with no time to dispute I met him there.  It was a tad smaller but way cleaner then previous morning.   The crowd was in full force.  I had trouble finding the good ones.  Then I got hit pretty hard attempting to stick a huge FS air reverse that threw my body a bit out of alignment.  Later I would hear how Rincon was about as good as it gets.  Whooot!  I love working for a living…