February 2015 Surf Sessions
2-28-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
More shitty wind swell and less then desirable conditions kept me in bed this morning. Not to mention I was super tired and wanted the sleep. Looks like there is some combo swell action for early in the week with the potential for off shore winds. Lets keep our fingers crossed. I must say I think winter is officially over as far as swell goes. It definitely feels like the season has changed in both the surf and the weather.
2-27-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I woke up and the Cstreet cam looked super small. The buoys indicated something that Ventura Harbor would have picked up. After yesterday I just wasn’t motivated on it. My lady had stayed over and instead I decided to spend the morning with her. Half of me regretted the decision. Why am I so addicted to this fucking sport. Work dragged on as usual. My boss was on my ass all day for absolutely nothing.
2-26-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
The buoys showed some solid wind swell and though a tad bit steep I had though maybe Rincon would have a little something to fuck around on. Too bad it was super tiny. From there I raced down to the Harbor figuring it was my best bet. New Jetty had some waves coming in though a bit on weak side. Out of time and options I paddled. I don’t know if I have spent too much time surfing really solid waves this winter, but I just wasn’t vibing with the conditions. It didn’t help that I broke my leash on my second wave and had to go back to my car for a spare. All I had was a thick cheapy 7′ standard leash. With that clunky thing dragging me down it only added to my dismay. Then I tweaked my neck trying to come out of a tiny backside barrel. Lets just say it was not one of the best sessions of my life. It beat not surfing. Work was work. Sorry no photos on this one cause my shitty iphone broke.
2-25-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
The reports were all claiming 3-4 ft though I was hard pressed to see a four foot wave anywhere around. Maybe my standards have really gone through the roof. With a 10 am low tide and a wind swell/ wind swell mix in the water I figured I would just head to Rincon and hope for the best. Too bad it was more like best of the worst there. When I first got to the point it was way too drained out and broken up. Not stoked I thought I would have a look about. Best case I could find something better, worst case I killed some time thus allowing for the tide to begin to push in. Everything south to Emma looked like dog shit. Stinky soft dog shit at that. I went back to ‘Con and just paddled. Cove a had a few, but the crowd was longboarded and kooked out for my liking. I can barely tolerate the Cove these days when its good let alone when its small and very average. I cruised up top to my usual River Mouth area I have seemed to fall in love with this year. Its funny when I first moved here I hated Rincon. Then I got pretty decent at surfing Indicator. A few years ago I committed all my time and effort into riding the Cove. The past two years or so I have devoted the bulk of my time to the River Mouth and erratic, doubled up, barrels, close outs, gnarly boulders and speedy racers. There are a bunch of options here and there is even a few lefts to be had breaking back into the river opening. Its a more challenging section to surf making it easier to catch more waves. Lately especially on the inconsistent and more crowded days I can be found in the River Mouth really challenging myself. Sure most of the waves are short in comparison to the other sections, but when you do get a screamer and connect it all the way through the Cove it really is a surfing accomplishment. I had a few moments of brilliance, but overall I just couldn’t get the weak peaky conditions to work for me. More times then not I was in the wrong spot when an actual decent set would come in. The water was clear, it was sunny and just a nice day to be in the ocean and at the beach. I guess that has to count for something.
2-24-15 PM Session:2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
I had to stop up at Westmont for a quick lunch and safety meeting. Ok you got me. I was hungry and it was a free meal and I am in my current degenerated financial state was in need of the extra half hour of paid overtime. After that I noticed a significant decrease in the wind. Still in need of a real surf I decided to have a look at Rincon. The tide was a bit high and surf still bumpy. I decided to go for a brief sea glass walk and wait out the surf. Sure enough I saw a few sets worthy of my time and paddled. I found a few gems up at River Mouth, then made my way down to Cove where I got a solid runner all the way to the high way, which I hit seven times and finished strong with an air at the end. I had a good surf and was feeling pretty good.
2-24-15 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Bizarro and I finally found some time and motivation to try and shoot again. It had been a solid month since the last session we did. The wind was off shore and Ryan was claiming fun chest high bowls at Hollywood. We got down there and it looked like we should have been there an hour earlier if at all. There were a few, but mostly it looked small, weak and terrible, not to mention crowded. Then we checked Strand, where besides a little mush burger on the North Jetty there was nothing to surf. At that point considering the wind was south and thrashing everything north of Ventura I decided to check the Harbor. I was hoping for some sick sand courtesy of the harbor dredging project. There was actually too much sand and everything was close out city. Out of options I settled for the closed out corners of New Jetty. Actually It had been almost a year since I attempted to surf large unruly closed out Jetty. Well when in Rome right? I spend an hour and half fighting rip currents, drifts and ten wave close out sets. I did manage a few corners too. Shit somehow I found and came out of a barrel on my last one.
2-23-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I got up after getting less sleep then I would have liked this morning intent on finding something to surf. The C-Street cam had some clean small waves that lead me believe Ventura Harbor might have a wave. As I was cruising south I noticed what looked to be a solid set coming in at Rincon. I swung around eating up all my available time for a flash in the pan. ‘Con was barely surf-able at best. Out of time I ran down to Emma Wood, which was also deplorable. Ultimately I ended up bailing on the surf and going back to Rincon for a sea glass work. I found a bad ass huge conch shell. I heard later the surf came up a tad, not that it did me any good since I had to work. Sorry for the late update. Cox turned off my internet cause my bill was a little over due, four days!?! Fucking Cock suckers.
2-22-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More small waves had me contemplating what to do this morning. There was some small south and with a rising tide and new sand bars I could have most likely found a wave down at Santa Clara or New Jetty. My pocket has been a hurting a little this month and with rent creeping up and gas prices as well I need to be smart. Rather then waste it on average at best surf I decided to chill in another morning. Plus my back is still not in the best shape. One more day never hurt anyone and new swell is suppose to start filling in tomorrow.
2-21-15 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Another small morning and more back pain let me opting to stay in bed and spend some quality time with my girlfriend. Hopefully things will pick up and I will feel better for a surf tomorrow
2-20-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I woke up and my back was still hurting from the catering gig I worked Wednesday. On top of that the swell was small and on the way out and there was a rather inconvenient 6 foot am high tide yet again. I also had a late night out and about at the Wild Cat with Bizarro. All signs pointed to sleeping in.
2-19-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
I had to work the fucking morning shift today because I owed it to a co-worker who covered for me last Friday. Little did I know that we were doing a special Chinese New Year lunch, which was in classic Westmont fashion it was under prepared and total utter chaos. Basically I worked my ass off for the entire day for a fruitless at best cause. As soon as I was finished I got the fuck out of there and headed to Rincon. I got there and the crowd was a bit heavy for what it was, but light by Rincon standards. I hit Trevor up cause he wanted to surf despite the fact that his girl was giving him shit. I paddled up top cause the Cove was packed and looked stagnant. Right off the bat I nailed a sick bs tail free reo reverse. On my next I nailed three solid turns followed by a solid bs air. After that things went downhill. I had a few shitty corners and some racy connections. I did manage an alright one through the Cove to end things. Of course when I looked back I saw the set of the evening roll through. Whatever, I got mine yesterday. Sorry no picture today cause my shitty phone died.
2-18-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
I took my time getting my act together. There was a 6 foot high tide and slowly rising west swell all day. I lounged around in bed with Alfie. Ate a nice leisurely breakfast and then headed to Rincon. The bottom lot was full but the top was empty. As I was checking it I ran into Jersey pro Randy Townsend coming up the trail pumped on it. Sure enough It was solid though still I bit high. I started up at high River Mouth. The swell was a bit too west and broken up with the background south making for mostly short corners and close outs. I still managed to find a few decent ones. Then I caught a bomb up top that I thought I could pull through and got thrashed. Lip hit me so hard it ripped the leash off my ankle. I made a mad swim in to try and save my board before it got eaten up by the rocks. Unfortunately the current with the out going tide kept pulling me back out. Luckily for me this dude Dave, who actually on occasion reads this blog managed to snag it for me. Thanks Bud, you saved my board and allowed me to surf the rest of the session. Right after that wave I fucked around in proper River Mouth before working my way down to the cove, which was far better then the top. The crowd was pretty heavy, but I wanted at least one before I left. I figured it would take at least a half hour of groveling before I found a wave. As soon as I got there a solid over head set rolled through. There were six fucking waves in it. The first five went by with deeper takers. The six one came right to me and I was in perfect position and snagged it. Some fuck dropped in on me, but I stuck right under him forcing him off the back. From there the wave just stood up and set up perfectly for the entire length of the cove. I literally double call boxed that fucking wave, even if there are no call boxes anymore. I had to do at least ten to fifteen turns on it. Had to be one of the best waves I have caught all season. I wish I could have surfed again, but I had to work a catering gig for Trevor on East Beach.
2-17-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Today was the smallest I have seen the buoys in over a month. That being said I was fine with it considering I had some catering work to do with for Trevor. The only window where I might have been able to find something remotely worth a surf would have been between nine and eleven and I had to work from ten to three. Oh well. Hopefully tomorrow.
2-16-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I called in sick today to spend the day with my girl friend since she had the day off for presidents day. We were hoping for a beach/surf day in. The weather and waves just didn’t want to co-operate. I cooked us a nice breakfast including a Dutch Baby (find the recipe for one here). From there my lady needed to go to Target to get a few things. I figured why not head down to Ventura do some shopping and maybe even get a surf in. Conditions were against me and rather then be selfish and surf garbage I decided to spend the remainder of the day with my lady. I must say it was time well spent. Anyway looks like there is new swell mid week.
2-15-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
Another day, another weekend, another holiday and more crowds. Rincon looked good as I drove by, but I definitely did not have enough time to deal with that place. I assumed Emma would at least be palatable. It wasn’t. In a scramble and out of time I just paddled Pitas. It looked terrible, but I was out of options and paddled. It was too small for Faria and was packed with SUP’s. The top was walled. I thought I could find a few corners. I ended up putting on a clinic on how to surf really bad closed out conditions. Whoot.
2-14-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
I wanted to get a surf in this morning especially after missing the rise of the swell yesterday. Considering crowds and tide I assumed I was either going to be surfing Pitas or Cobbles. Both waves are equally dangerous hard to surf and shitty in their own right. I checked Pitas first and there were only three guys up top and another handful at Faria. With limited time I paddled and got a bomb up top hit once before it closed out. After that I headed down the point to Faria which although a tad smaller and inconsistent was a bit longer. Still there was noting phenomenal, just another average day at an average point. Later I cooked a nice rack of lamb for my love and I to enjoy a nice Valentines Day.
2-13-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Friday the thirteenth I found myself up in Cayucos with my gorgeous girl for a much needed escape and indecently cliche Valentine weekend trip. I guess that is two years running now. The funny thing is we never plan it that way. We both just happened to have time in our busy schedules to have a quick 30 hour lovers get away. I did bring a board in the hopes that I may be able to find something to surf. Ultimately it was just too big everywhere. One of my usual go to spots was closed because the beach was full of giant fucking elephant seals fighting and screaming. I did almost paddle a left just south of the San Simeon Pier, but time was precious and it wasn’t the best wave thus I decided to bag it and spend the time with Heather, which was why I was there in the first place. Instead we did a bit of wine tasting and shopping in Cambria. We dined at a small, highly recommended sea food place in Cambria called The Sea Chest that was quite the let down. If your ever in the area don’t waste your money or time on the place.
2-12-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Rincon was actually what I had my sites on this morning. After neglecting her the entire swell I wanted to at least ride the last of this swell’s steed on her. As I was walking down the trail to check it I ran into my friend Heather getting out of the water. This woman has been surfing Rincon nearly everyday for 30 years and knows it better then anyone. She told me not to bother and that it definitely would not be fun for me. Its funny I met her out there about nine years ago in the Cove where she yelled at me for being there on a short board on a knee to waist high day explaining that when its small short boarders stick to the top and mals the cove. I have followed this rule ever since. I was going to just bail to something along Sea Cliffs when I remembered that the wind was suppose to be hard off shore Santa Anna’s down south. It was only 9:15 thus I decided to make a dash for Ventura Harbor. Sure enough when I got to about Emma Wood the wind was gusting so hard my car was being blown out of its lane. The harbor still had plenty of swell. There were about six guys out at New Jetty, though it looked a bit on the walled side out there. I looked down toward River Mouth where they have begun dumping sand for the annual harbor dredge. This can have ether epic or ill effect depending on where they dump the sand and when. There were a few distinct sand bars, the one directly in front of the dredge pipe looking the best. I couldn’t tell if it was really good or just to fast considering the two guys out there totally were not selling it. Out of time and left with no options I paddled and it was way way way sicker then it looked. Right off the bat I snagged a left that went down the beach, then a draining right tube, then a double up left barrel and so and so forth. The only annoying thing was there was a tough rip and current so constant paddling to hold position was necessary. After Tuesday’s Sand Spit session this was nothing. I had some sickies and was stoked to have paddled out. Shit I was late to work it was so good.
2-11-15 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
I immediately left Naples and made the 60 mile trek south to Oxnard for some off shore barrels. Whenever it is like that there it always reminds me of Jersey. The only difference is that down at Hollywood you can surf brown water barrels in 60 degree water and 70 degree air. It was a bit smaller and a softer then I had hoped. Then again almost no one was out and there certainly were some sick ones out there. I paddled at the life guard tower on La Brea. It was a bit lully and I did get my best barrel on my second wave. You can take the kid out Jersey but not the Jersey out of the kid. I thrived in the hard off shore conditions and had one of the better surfs performance wise then I have had in a while. After the sess I met up with the other sous chef at work besides myself, Geoffrey for dinner at Giofrancos in Carpinteria. All I can say was that it was some of the best Italian food I have eaten in a long time.
2-11-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Naples was my originally plan for the day. Santa Anna’s were expected for down south so I was waiting on reports from the beaches. By 9 am I was over waiting and cruised north. I got to the lot and there were about a half dozen cars signifying that there must be a wave. Ryan claimed Hollywood looked good and he was paddling. I was already at Naples and I wanted to surf there anyway. When I got to the bluffs there were definately some solid sets coming in although a bit on the walled side and somewhat soft. Seals looked to have the best shape, but there were four guys on it and two more changing with not enough waves to go around. Looking up toward the Crack Peak I noticed a lot of waves with no one on it. The sets were walled, but there were plenty of in between ones that were got for four to six turns. I even found a few ten turners. Still as I have been this entire swell I was just a little off. Naples is always a good idea and it was a beautiful day out. When I got out I checked my phone. There was a text from Ryan letting me know that Hollywood was fun and still off shore. What was I to do but pack up my hit and head south.
2-10-15 PM Session 2-4+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
After a brief rest watching some of Silence of the Lambs and Terminator 2 because Bizarro was. I found myself at a loss on where to surf. I was sure Sand Spit would still be fun, though crowded and more current. I wanted to go to El Cap or Naples when I got a text from Trevor that he had just surfed Sharks and it was still super fun. Ryan wanted to surf and he could only surf in town or south. I was thinking Loons till the wind turned NW. Sharks made the most sense and we went for it. Sure enough it was solid with only three guys on it. The wind added a slight chop, though the faces were clean. I had some real good ones and surfed it well. After the first half hour Ryan and I were left out the back by ourselves. I must say it was certainly a fine day of surfing. No photo on this one.
2-10-15 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Sand Spit
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
Fucking SAND BAR!!!! I have sort have been avoiding the place the past couple of years just because of a lack of time. The biggest problem with Santa Barbara is that it is a cock tease of very fickle spots. When those spots are on it is some of the best surfing in the world. It takes time and diligence to score and in the past few year with increased responsibility I have less time to scour the coast in search of perfection. Sand Spit is a spot that takes ample time to score and even more to surf considering both crowd, lulls and current. I was off today and Ryan had put the idea in my head last night that it might be fun there. I gave it a check from the pier early and it was on with a light crowd. I went for it. Killian was out making it look easy as always. The current was insane making it impossible to stay in place with out constant paddling. I was definitely not in the shape for such a surf especially being sick for so long. I had a few sick ones including an over head bomb I snagged from behind the break wall and was pretty much in the barrel all the way to the end of it at the harbor entrance. Unfortunately toward the end the crowd got heavy and my arms were shot. I blew three good ones in a row and then could not fight the drift any longer. I snagged an insider and got out of there. It was still an amazing session none the less.
2-9-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 30
After a less then enthralling night at the kitty I woke up looking to surf something in town considering the swell was still west as fuck. I decided to go back to Sharks. Two guys were out and a I saw a pretty solid set on the 101 drive around. Hammonds had some solid ones again, but the tide was a bit low and I was sure it was to get packed as soon as things started to heat up out there. With limited time I opted for another low pro session at Sharks. Unfortunately it was not quite as good as yesterday, but the tide was lower so I was on the optimistic side. I saw enough waves for all three of us and paddled out. Of course right off the bat this vet out there started heckling me about how he has been surfing there since the 70’s and now that I paddled out we would have to work it like a deli line. I told him he could have dibs and I would be perfectly fine getting whatever him and his boy left for me. This eased the situation a bit. The thing about low pro spots is that there is a different hierarchy and set of rules then at the main places. I found a few, but was with out a doubt having trouble putting together a great ride. Toward the end of my surf as the tide filled in things started to pick up and so did the crowd. These new comers were not adhering the rules at all and were constantly paddling me. I am a pretty decent surfer in my own right and now how deep I can comfortably sit in most line ups to utilize the waves to best those waves have to offer. When some dumb fuck decides to paddle out and press me deeper so that now instead of getting into the wave at the perfect section I have to race a close out section to get to that perfect section it pisses me off. None the less I still managed a few more good ones and my last wave I manged to get all the way down the point to quit. As I was leaving there about another seven guys suiting up to go surf an already crowded line-up with not enough waves for five. Tragedy of the fucking commons. No photo cause I didn’t have time to get one.
2-8-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
I woke up and the bad morning winds had finally subsided. Out my kitchen window I could totally see that there was some solid swell hitting the beach break at Lead Better. A decision had to be made whether to surf the Mesa reefs or try for one of the Montecito points. Hoping to get Sharks I choose Montecito. It took two high way passes on the 101 to get an idea on what the surf was all about. Hammonds had some serious swell, but with absolutely zero parking it also had a serious crowd. So did Mira Mar. Sharks only had about seven guys and although I had not seen anything great I was out of time and made the gamble. When I first got there things were really slow and sets nothing great. By the halfway point the session really turned around and the sets started pumping and wrapping all the way into the point. It was a little faster then I like it out there and a bit wobbly with the high tide, but I definitely got a few gems and even stuck a full rotation air reverse. Unfortunately I got one too far into the cove and found myself quickly swept into the rocks. Work sucked as I was once again short handed as usual. No photo cause as I said before Sharks doesn’t have a good vantage point except for on the actual beach.
2-7-15 No Surfing: 4-6+ ft
Bizarro and my actual birthday party at the Wild Cat, of course. To our pleasant surprise the club hooked us up with yet another complimentary bottle. For a change we had a very decent turn out and spent less the $100 bucks each door to door. It almost felt like it was our birthday for a change. I had a really good time and a mini black out. Next morning I woke up on my little couch feeling a bit on the hung over side. Looked out my window and it was rainy and stormy. Considering such I bagged the session and opted for a little extra sleep before work. It was a good thing I did cause I was short handed as fuck.
2-6-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Last night was our Birthday party pre-party party at the Wild Cat and Bizarro’s actual birthday. The club comped us a bottle. Needless to say we got pretty Fancy. I woke up around 7 am and the winds were bad. I probaly could have found something to surf, but was bit drunk still and highly unmotivated.
2-5-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
I should make an entire career out of surfing terrible Emma Wood. Oh, wait, Dane already has done that. I got a later start then I should have and with the high tide I was left with few options. Emma had a wave so I went out. It was mostly walled or sectiony with lots of backwash. I managed to get hit with my board three times and never really got one worth while. Whooot, Surfing yeah!!!
2-4-15 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Cobbles/Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
I really wanted to surf again. It was my birthday after all and I could not think of a better way of spending it then surfing all day. I headed south to the beaches since the wind was still super light. I figured I could find some sick ones at either Hollywood or Strand. I stopped at Lalo’s to scarf a burrito and as I was doing that the wind came up. I had seen a some waves along Sea Cliffs and headed back that way. Brook-o called me and wanted to surf. I had a look around and saw some decent ones at Cobbles. The sand has been really good there this year. The wind wasn’t messing it up to bad so I paddled with Brook lagging behind. I got out there and it was a bit too low and the lines a bit too long. The wind came up more stiff making it very hard to surf. After two waves I got frustrated and decided to paddle all the way up to Emma Wood and then all the way out to the Overhead. Overhead had some size but was super mushy and going no place. It was basically great feats in going straight for fifty yards. Brook-o and I paddled to the inside reef where we found a hardly ride-able right and left with a body boarder on it and got a few before it got dark. It was fun to surf and catch up with an old friend even if the waves sucked. Later that night my girl took me out to C’Dario for my birthday dinner, where the food was a real let down. Don’t waste your money on that place cause its not worth it. None the less it was still a nice evening out. Don’t let the photo of Cobbles fool you it was way faster then it looks.
2-4-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Today was what one could call flawless Rincon. Nice clean lines, overhead and glassy. I started at the Indicator and found a few gems. Had a couple of sick ones until the crowded tripled and the sets became few and far between. Then I found myself getting burned on all my good ones or just picking up close outs. I paddled down to high Cove, low River Mouth and found some average ones in there. I would have had the birthday barrel of the day till some idiot on a 9 ft short board decided to burn me as I was backdooring the section thus closing it out on me. After that the tide shut down that section and I found myself going almost an hour with catching a wave. Finally over it, cold, frustrated and exhausted I paddled back up to the Indicator to get on out and ended up burning some guy to get my last wave. He was deep paddling the section I was sitting on allowing me the perfect spot to burn him with out worrying about being caught. Turned out it was a good wave and I got like nine turns on it. I hate to do that shit, but I really just wanted to leave.
2-3-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Under normal circumstances I probaly considering the buoys would have had a look around at the southern points for a second session. I had to drive back into SB to pay my rent, which I barely made this month and had to pull some hokey shit to make happen. Since I was already north I decided to have a look at some of the Gaviota waves. In the afternoons, even if its smaller I would rather surf something fun and uncrowded up north then fight the after work/after school masses. I pulled off to check it from the hill when I got flagged down by some guy trailering a boat. Apparently he lost a wheel off the trailer somewhere along the 101 and asked if I saw it. Being no help I continued on my way. I saw some lines coming in and decided to go for it. When I got to the bluff over looking Seals it was way smaller then I would have liked. I though about bailing to Hazards, but then figured if I walked up top I would find something to surf. The Crack Peak had a few decent ones coming in despite the extreme low tide. I paddled and found a some fun ones. A three pack tried to creep on my peak even thought I had first rights. I gave them the stink eye and vibed them back down the point to the peak they had started on. If it was one other guy, maybe even two it would have been chill, but there was not enough waves for four people on the peak I was sitting at. The walk back in the dark and fog was more then a little freaky.
2-3-15 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Oh Rincon your such a good wave, but such a whore. I got up around 9ish and decided to head to Rincon and give it a look if for no other reason then to rule it out. I got down there and noticed a familiar figure walking down the point from a dawn patrol. It was Tony G. from Ocean Hut here in SB for his yearly pilgrimage to the ‘Con. I chilled with him and his wife for a little to catch up. The tide was obnoxiously high anyway. I paddled around 10:30 up by the River Mouth and lower Indicator. I managed some solid bombs right off the bat, though I blew my first three with in the first five turns. The wind was a bit south causing a bit of a warble and mushier then desirable conditions. Whenever Rincon is like this it makes for a serious backside handicap. I made the necessary adjustments in my attack and began getting some fun ones. The crowd was a bit heavy for what was coming in and very rude. There were lots of randoms out there and everyone was burning everyone. I ended up posting up at mid to low River Mouth for the second half of the session. Somehow I managed to luck into a head high set wave in the Cove that set up all the way to the freeway. It may have been one of the best Cove waves I have rode this year. I rode it flawless. I had to quit on that or it would just be greedy.
2-2-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Last night Bizarro and I hit the Cat for a little post Super Bowl insanity. Everyone was way ahead of us by the time we got there. Thus we had some serious catching up to do. I woke up on the couch this morning feeling less then stellar. The buoys looked worse then yesterday and so did the cams. Rather than waste my time with a grovel session I opted to stay in.
2-1-15 AM Session: 1-2+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
I really wanted to start off February on the right track and that meant surfing. I blew it in January. First I was plagued with party, then sickness, then just pure laziness and lack of motivation. I promised myself I would get my shit together with the advent of my birthday, which coincidentally is the 4th of this month. My birthday party in conjunction with Bizarro’s is going down at the Wild Cat on the 6th, 10pm. All are welcome. I will write something about that this week though. Anyhow I saw that the buoys were small and tide thus I procrastinated getting out bed a bit. At nine I finally got my act together and got on the road. I figured Emma was my best bet and was hoping to grab the tide change. Emma loves a tide shift, especially when there is wind swell in the water. Of course as I am coming down the PCH near Gold Coast the road was shut down. Apparently some bicyclist must have gotten ran over. Fucking spandex wearing queers. Share the road my ass, that shit is a two way street. Anyway I didn’t get to Emma till 10:15 and it was fucking deplorable. By far the worst surf I have seen in a month. I paddled since I was there and hoped it was better then it looked. It was about as bad as it looked. It was just nice to be out there. When I don’t surf before work I tend to get really depressed. I feel then all I do is sleep and work and it really makes my life unbearable. Work was average at best.
[…] February ’15 […]