Surfing Ruined My Life

May 2026 Surf Sessions

5-17-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 36
The morning started off sunny and nice.  I got my family all loaded up in be car and we headed over to Hollywood where there was some solid overhead wind swell in the water. The wind had already come up completely blowing out the surf.  My wife and baby were cold and decided to head home.  Meanwhile I jumped in the truck with AJ and we headed south to County Line.   It was solid chest plus and pretty consistent with the wind swell south swell combo.  Stoked we paddled the reef.  The crowd was definitely on it and the waves were a little bit on the weaker side.  I got busy and found a few runners.  In the afternoon my wife and I took Adagio to the park to play. 

5-16-26 AM Session: 2-3 ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 42
It was windy at Hollywood and I heard that the north points weren’t any good. Whatever swell we had seemed to have wound down.  AJ volunteered to drive south hoping to find a bit of pulse out of the minor south swell in the water.  We checked everything to Zeros and it seemed that County Line though it looked weak was do-able.  Thus a grovel session ensued.  There were a few runners down the reef that made the surf worthwhile. I had a catering gig in Santa Barbara in the evening.

5-15-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 52
After not surfing Rincon all winter long I suppose it’s fitting for me to paddle at the end of the season.  Hollywood was completely walled. I heard the Ship had waves but I still haven’t found the motivation to go over there.  I got word that Rincon and all the points for that matter had chest plus waves.  Stoked, I decided to head up.  Pitas was already looking too fat with the tide and smaller than yesterday.  I paddled Rincon which was though a little bit weak still very rip-able.  My session was spent catching waves between the Indicator and the Rivermouth.  There were a couple of gems to be mined.  I forgot how much I love the Queen.  The rampant over crowding coupled with my busy life as a parent and surfboard builder has forced me to neglect her more than I like.  For a period of ten years she was my main squeeze and I got to know every section and every swell angle.  Being back out there felt just like riding a bike, you never forget.  Around noon I had my fill and as I was coming in I noticed that my wife was hanging out on the rocks just below the mouth.  What a pleasant surprise.  She was on her way to Santa Barbara for a last minute family thing. We grabbed lunch at Hugo’s in Carpinteria then went our separate ways. As for myself my afternoon was spent glassing surfboards.

5-14-26 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 38
One thing I always have said about where I live is that there are few places that have as decent waves as we have in the 805.  After a few days away I was greeted by a late season mid period WNW to remind of such.  All the were points looking good.  I paddled Pitas with Jefferey and about a handful of randoms.  My session started up top where it was solid head high plus albeit a little stretched.  I was borderline under gunned on my 5’7.  About half an hour in the wind came up a bit which compelled me to give the Faria section a go.  Though a little bit smaller the waves were running way further down the point.  I got more than my share of leg burners out there. It was a real treat to be able to surf at one of the north points so late in the season, especially since I had so few days on them this winter.  I had my reasons for choosing the solitude of the wild beaches all winter.  There are times when one just needs to be by themselves with the ocean.  You can learn a lot about yourself from surfing alone in obscurity.  I did.  That’s a story for another time.  The rest of my day was spent fixing dings.

5-13-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, K55 1/2
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 0
It was our last morning in Baja and at the very least it was glassy.  The swell had dropped quite a bit from the previous days leaving just some minor SW/NW combo.  If anything there was a slight rise in the NW swell.  The right point at K55 1/2 still wasn’t working which is one of the reasons I stay where I do.  The reef just to north of the point had right breaking off it.  I have actually never surfed it before.  On previous trips it was just sort of closed out.  I guess the swell angle and tide were just right for it plus the glassy conditions.  There were four guys out when I had checked it but I saw two leave while I was suiting up.  The wave was pretty inconsistent so a fifth guy would have been a crowd.  I walked over and paddled wide of the peak and sat inside taking whatever scraps the other two guys didn’t want.  I even asked them if it was cool for me to sit there.  One thing about private waves especially in this community the etiquette is taken way more serious.  The pecking order goes owners than guests.  These guys were definitely owners.  They left shortly after I paddled because that particular wave likes a high tide and the tide recession was already taking its toll. I made the most of it.  The wave itself was sort of a mush slab making it tricky to really rip and the peak was way shiftier than it looked from far away.  Then towards the end of my session I got mobbed by a four pack, who had little etiquette even for owners.  Over it I caught a few more and left.  By that point the tide had gotten too low and wind had gotten on it as well.  It worked out cause I had to get back to pack up and get on the road.  Before heading home my wife had a side quest for us to embark on.  She needed a certain amount of worry doll belts for an aunt of hers.  We had been searching with little luck since we crossed the border.  The mission took us to the Rosarito marketplace where after some creative bargaining we bought worry doll pouches and colorful belts of which the dolls could be attached to.  We had yet another nightmarish three hour border crossing.  Why we haven’t gotten our sentry passes yet is beyond me.  Just as we were one car away from the check point the border agent took his fifteen minute break while we sat there ready to scream.  Then it was dinner back at the in-laws, after which I packed up the car and my family where we embarked on the three hour trek home. Sometimes as much fun as these little trips are they can be exhausting and I almost need a vacation from the vacation. 

5-12-26 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, San Miguel
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 52
You have no idea how nice it is to sleep an entire night and not get woken up by a fussy baby.  Even better than that is actually being able to sleep in without being woken up by a fussy baby.  You non-parents out there reading this don’t take the simple things in life for granted cause once they are gone they are gone.  The only time I ever get peace and serenity and a small semblance of my old life is on these short get-aways.  The surf was tiny probably as a result of the extremely low tide.  It didn’t help that there was already a bit of wind on it as well.  We decided to to head south to one of the worlds largest marine geysers just outside of Ensenada called La Bufadora.  I will say that it was quite a bit farther than we had expected to drive.  At the very least we got to take in the sites of urban Ensenada.  Then we passed through a large farming vale similar to that of own backyard in Oxnard. Finally we made our way out along the coast again to the Punta Banda Peninsula, the home of La Bufadora.  The scene was super pristine and remote until we got to the actual attraction.  Then it was classic Mexico all built up with little shops selling the same touristy junk inches from each other.  You had to walk about five hundred yards through this narrow street where a gauntlet of vendors were yelling all sorts of buzz words to get you in their shops.  One fun merchant gave me the adorable nick name Mr. Whiskers.  Another wouldn’t stop trying to sell me tequila.   Don’t forget the knock off designer accessories.  By the time I got to the actual Bufadora I didn’t know if I should laugh or cry.  I will say that the actual marine phenomenon is quite impressive.  Waves push water into this under water cave and when the cave is at capacity it shoots the water out hundreds of feet into the air.  It’s quite busy from all the cruise ships that stop in Ensenada.  We ate lunch at this splendid seafood restaurant just around  the peninsula that served us some of the freshest seafood I have ever eaten.  On the way home we  made a detour to San Miguel where I lucked into chest plus waves running down the point with only two guys out.  I love that wave.  It’s definitely one of my favorites, but it can also be very busy.  It wasn’t the bear I’ve gotten it but I had a blast. We got back to our place, opened a bottle of petite Syrah and relaxed.  Talk about a full day of fun.

5-11-26 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, K55 Baja
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 48
The wife and I decided to take a day or two to ourselves in Mexico.  Considering we had a free stay at our usual rental due to not having power on our last visit we couldn’t say no.  Baja is always a good idea.  The drive in was uneventful.  There was plenty solid south swell on tap which left me stoked since I got royally skunked on my last trip. The beach break was the call, where I made the most of the shifty head high plus lefts and rights.  There was a bit of South wind chop on the waves as well.  Add to that the usual inconsistency that comes with every south swell and I had myself a rather challenging surf.  I forgot to mention how gnarly sharky this deep water locale is as well.  The things I endure to get a few waves all to myself.  Taking all of that information into consideration I still had a fun time.  We ended the evening enjoying the sunset with a glass of Prosecco.  I love my son but having some alone time with my wife is a real refresher.  People lie to you about how hard parenting is and how much your relationship with your significant other gets neglected due to the never ending needs of the child. 

5-10-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Blacks Beach
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 48
I hate surfing in San Diego the lineups are an absolute zoo.  I especially hate it on a Sunday, which I unfortunately had to endure today.  There wasn’t a ton of swell in the water but with a little bit NW wind swell and some south swell I decided to go to Blacks.  My logic being that the walk might deter some of the masses and the fact that it’s a pretty spread out surf zone that can handle a large crowd.  Parking was tough meaning it was for sure crowded.  There must have been easily two hundred surfers in the water.  The other thing about San Diego I’m not a huge fan of is how surfers seem to always show up in groups of four to ten plus heads.  While I was out there all I saw was packs of guys walking down the trail. In the 805 you get scowled at for bringing more than yourself and a bud.  The scene is grotesque to say the least.  I also don’t know what happened to Blacks.  When I lived in La Jolla back in ‘02 I swear it seemed way more peaky out there.  Lately every time I paddle the place is mostly walled.  I battled the crowd and managed a few fun ones.  Was it worth the walk in and out? That’s hard to say.  If I wasn’t such an addict I probably could have left the session out.  I went back to my mother in law’s home in Chula Vista and cooked up a nice Mother’s Day rib eye feast for her and my wife.  I’m definitely looking forward to sneaking in a little Mexico time the next few days.

5-9-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 11
AJ and I did our usual Hollywood check but it looked just as dumpy as yesterday.  We decided to go have a look at the Hotel which always has better low tide sand.  Though somewhat walled, there were some corners to be had off the NW wind swell/South swell mix.  I got a few gems among the junk for sure.  My window was short due to an early wedding I had to work in Santa Barbara.  This event was a bit unique as it was a Filipino wedding.  I got to carve up a whole suckling pig.  In all my years as a chef it was only the second time doing that.  I got back to Hueneme aroind 8pm the loaded the family into the car and we did the late drive to San Diego to be with my mother in law for Mother’s Day. 

5-8-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 10
The south pretty much dropped out leaving nothing but very short period wind swell.  I heard Strand was tiny as were the north points.  Conditions were super glassy printing AJ and I to paddle Hollywood.  Overall the waves had poor shape and were gnarly dumpy with the drained out morning tide.  AJ and I fought the good fight.  I found a few tubes and a couple of sections to hit.  Mostly I just got my ass handed to me on the knee to ankle deep sand bar. In the afternoon I had to work a wedding in Santa Barbara.

5-7-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 10
There was some very mixed up south swell  and NW wind swell keeping everywhere looking extra disorganized.  AJ and I saw a few drained out corners on the extreme low tide that looked worthy. My first wave was a head high left that I managed three turns on.  After that the wind came up onshore and finding a gem became rather difficult.  There were still a few pocket barrels to be had and some interesting corners.  Directly from the surf I headed up to Santa Barbara for a 230 head catering event which ended up being rather hectic.  At one point I was borderline ready to walk out.  I went home questioning if I still wanted to work for my current employer.

5-6-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 36
There was a slight rise in south swell and luckily for me Surfline was calling the opposite.  I heard some of the beaches looked fun.  Unfortunately I was unable to surf early cause my Nanny got delayed till 11.  By then all the Oxnard and Ventura beaches were windy.  I headed south down the PCH where the wind was exponentially lighter.  I saw a solid set come in off the reef at County and didn’t hesitate to paddle.  It ended up being way more stretched and fast then I had anticipated making the session a bit trying.  That being said I did manage a few.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings.

5-5-26 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 38
The minor south swell was still in the water as was a hard NW gale on the entire coast.  I decided to go back to Leo Carrillo.  Unlike yesterday the line up was crowded with a gaggle of kooks.  It allowed me dibs on whatever waves I wanted but these novices were very annoying and got in the way.  I found a few but it was definitely more weak and soft than the previous day.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings.

5-4-26 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 44
The small south swell from yesterday was up a peg but so was the wind making Hueneme and the other VTA  beaches look like crap.  Wanting to surf I headed south to zeros but the NW wind followed me. At this point the wind was blowing close to fifteen knots leaving me no other option than to paddle Leo. Though small and inconsistent the crowd was light and respectful with everyone taking turns.  When a set did come the waves had good rip-able shape all the way down the reef.  My afternoon was spend packing up a box of surfboards to be shipped to Florida.

5-3-26 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 2
There was bit of a trace south swell showing.  I saw what looked like a few peaks down by the Wash and decided to give it a go.  Since it was a somewhat nice morning my family came along.  We all made the trek down the beach to where I saw a few peaks.  As soon as I got there the wind began to come up onshore.  The water absolutely freezing and a marine layer came in with the wind. Of course when the waves are horrible that is when my baby decides he wants to nap on the beach which allows my wife the ability to film.  Why he didn’t nap last week when it was going off is beyond me.  I never know what that kid is thinking.  It was pretty much a hate session that may have been more frustration than anything.  We went home, I did a bit of yard work that was long overdue.  The day concluded watching the finals of the Margret River Pro.

5-2-26 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, No Surfing
May second and hello May gray.  The surf was tiny, it was damp, foggy and cold out.  I found myself highly unmotivated to go grovel.  It’s been lots and lots and lots of groveling lately.  Considering that I had a wedding to work in Santa Barbara for the bulk of my day I decided to spend what was left of my morning with my wife and baby.

5-1-26 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
More small short period wind swell and high tide kept me at home.  AJ and I paddled the pier cause it looked like it was doing its thing.  I was stoked till I got out there and found out the hard way that it was still way too shore breaky to safely ride.  We paddled south to the second life guard tower where there was some sort of bar and made the most of it.  Overall it was pretty terrible.  I had a wedding to cater in Santa Barbara in the afternoon.