Surfing Ruined My Life

April 2020 Surf Sessions

4-30-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Sliver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 78
With the swell up a notch from yesterday Ryan and I headed to Strand and were pleasantly surprised by solid head high plus waves at the Ship. The bulk of the crowd was sitting right off the ship. I saw a few in the bowl with very little crowd and decided to give it a go. As it turned out what I thought was going to be a super session ended up being a bit slower then I hoped. Sets were very inconsistent and most were stretched. There were a few good ones to be though with some patience. Then the wind came up and it got more crowded. I saw Ryan on the beach over it and decided to bail. Later that evening I went to my Mother in laws place to pick up a piece of furniture for my apartment.

4-29-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 78
The swell went a tad more west and was coupled with a small sw swell. Ryan and I cruised to Strand. It was really weak. Angers was out there, as was Pat and Brady. It was a bit streched and all over the place. There were a few solid ones too and it was definitely head high on set. It looked a little soft so I grabbed my small wave board only to find myself a bit under gunned on the racy ones. The tide was steadily coming up so it was probably the right choice in the. The rips were rough and there was a south drift that was relentless. It was for sure a lot of work out there. There were some real gems out there. I’d say it was a good session. Even found a few tubes.

4-28-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Sliver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
I picked up Ryan early and we headed to Strand. I guess we had just missed the window cause everyone was already leaving. I guess it was really good early. There were still some chest plus sets and it looked fun enough so we paddled. Angers was out slaying it as usual. As the tide filled in it started to really slow down. Every so often a good one would come through. It was nothing special but there were a few to be had.

4-27-20 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 78
I started out early hoping for some combo action. The only worth a surf ended up being Dredge which wasn’t all that good and packed with locals, visitors and bad vibes all around. Over it, I had some errands to run in Ventura. Lately the afternoon has had the better surf anyway. Round one I headed to Strand. Though lack luster there were a few runners off the Ship with only a few guys on it. I paddled over waiting around. As it turned out the wind died and it got rather fun. For about an hour it was just me and one other guy trading really fun lefts. We definitely made it look too much fun cause one by one people started paddling till it was maxed out. I got a good one and quit already had got mine anyway. Good times. Spent the rest of my day working in my garden.

4-26-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 78
I needed a good surf today.  Once again I knew the crowds were going to be out hand.  Where yesterday my strategy was to beat the crowd for lesser surf.  Today I decided I was going to fight the crowds for decent waves.  Strand is one of the few places where the nature of the waves themselves sort of help separate the kooks from the worthy fast.  When I pulled up to check it man did it look fun.  Barreling peaks up and down the beach.  It took me nearly twenty minutes to find parking.  Then apparently after yesterday Ventura enacted a new ordinance that beach chairs, towels and any other type of beach paraphernalia is no longer prohibited as is hanging out on the beach.  From here on out the beach can only be used for exercise and surfing.  This was fine with me.  I actually don’t really care what stupid rules are enforced on the land as long as I can surf, though I hope LA decides to adopt the same policy so the overcrowding due to the beach closure bottle neck will stop.  By the time I suited and walked up to the beach it was like I was looking at a completely different line up.  The wind went light WSW, but the amount of channel chop that came with it was absurd.  The majority of surfers had bailed.  I was already in my suit and committed so I paddled with the naive optimism that it might get better or that I could manufacture a good surf.  None of that happened and I spent my entire surf getting stuck in rips and catching close outs.  I hit my head on my board trying to force a fS air reverse making quite the crater on the board and the bump on my head.  Lucky for me I didn’t get cut.  I did luck into one barrel and landed an alright backside straight air.  I am sure it will get fun there again before dark today.  I am not going twiddle my thumbs hanging around Ventura all day to find out.  I did go home and serve up a ham steak, eggs and hash browns for my wife and I.

4-25-20 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 76
After Thursday and Friday’s utter display of beach chaos due to lack of people following the “Stay at Home” initiative (sorry surfline no one seems amused by your Shred at home bullshit) I had to really consider where I would have the best chance of getting some waves with the smallest crowds and ease of parking.  It is hilarious that finding an uncrowded wave was hard enough, but now you have to find parking as a result of all the lost beach goers who’s usual giant state beaches with their large lots are closed.  Fuck My Life!!!  Hollywood ended up being the solution.  The problem with Hollywood is that it always looks very surf-able when in reality with out off shore wind and a little combo cross up it is just one giant wall as far as the eye can see.  I thought I saw a few “100 yard corners” as I like to call them.  My eyes always surf faster then I do especially these days with my shitty back.  Angers met me and we paddled by La Brea.  Actually I lucked into an alright left tube on my second wave that I hoped would set the pace for my surf.  The crowd kept growing and as the tide came up it seemed only to get more walled.  Then the wind went south a really started reeking havoc.  I did bring down a solid ally-oop and got a pretty proper left tube on my last wave.  I guess I can take that to the bank.  Not wanting to go home to our scorching hot apartment my wife and I decided to become part of the problem and hang out at the beach.  We decided to post up at Fruit Stands since it was the most out of the way spot for most everyday beach people to attend.  I was thinking about waiting it out for an evening session.  With all the heat it was bound to glass off before dark.  After three hours on the beach in the heat I was spent and went home.  Heard Strand got pretty good.

4-24-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Dredge
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 60
You know things are getting desperate when I resort to surfing the Dredge.  Its not that I dislike the wave, though not my favorite, but really I just dislike the scene there.  Between funky winds, more fair weather crowding and Angers paddling I decided to give it a go.  Considering it was weak, wonky and high tide I knew there wouldn’t be too many takers.  Despite it being that shitty I got yelled at by some dude whom I have surfed with out there plenty of times for not being local while walking to surf.  Trust me I am hardly the problem.  He was leaving anyway so I just kept on walking.  It was just about as bad as it looked.  Right when I paddled out there was about a half hour window where the tide got just high enough to allow it to peel a little off the outside jetty and just make it past the finger jetty into the Cove.   I actually did manage a couple of decent ones in this interim.  Then the wind came up like a light switch out of the NW and coupled with the four foot tide it just became about as bad as waves get.  I grinded out a few more waves before calling it a day.  Later that day I my wife and I now on our first full week married watched a sizable lizard fight for his life against a crow in the middle of the street.  It is not my style to intervene with nature, but when there is a man made element that comes into play, in this case the street I find myself compelled to intervene, plus it was just Earth Day after all.  Unfortunately, the lizard was able to successful keep the crow at bey only to get run over by VW TDI.  Upon seeing this the crow swooped down and nabbed a now easy meal.  This what entertainment during quarantine has come to.  I bet I could set up this scenario again and start a little sports book.  Gamblers can bet the lizard, the crow or the car.  Then we could get really creative and have combo bets like which creature will get hit by the car, will there be a car accident trying to avoid hitting the creatures, etc.  We can even put odds on it from this example.  The car pays 2 to 1, The crow 5-1, the lizard 10-1.  We can bet me getting hit by a car or saving the lizard at 30-1Who’s in?

4-23-20 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 78
The sad part about today is that I actually started out in the morning.  I had gotten word that Ventura Harbor was pretty fun and since it had just been re-opened the previous day my hope was that word had yet to get out.  I was wrong cause when I got there the place was crawling with surfers.  Actually everyone was rather spread out.  The shape was piss poor and even though there was no wind it was all chopped up.  Hoping for a little more shape at Strand I made the trek.  There would have been potential there except the wind went really hard NW as soon as I got there.  I should have looked at the North Jetty but because it was like 85 degrees out parking was a shit show on that end.  I wasn’t into dealing with it.  I knew Rincon had a wave and headed back there.  Of course when I got to Rincon parking was also a bitch with the bottom lot closed and the wind was south!!! I lucked into a spot under the overpass.  At this point I was so frustrated, nearly three hours after I had left my house I decided to just paddle.  Actually when I first paddled up at River Mouth I got a few really fun ones.  There were only a few guys out and everyone was spread out since there really was not any real take off zone as is always the case with small wind swell up there.  Then the crowd began to grow at an exponential rate as did the wind speed out of the south.  This led to crowded, terrible waves.  I got completely out of rhythm, began missing all the good ones and only catching dudes.  I then got more frustrated, which led to catching even worse waves and trying to force the envelope on whatever I got on.  Finally I got a very bad case of last wave syndrome needing at least something fun to quit on so I wouldn’t have to go home and hang myself with my leash.  After much effort and utter angst I found a waist high right that I forced two miserable turns out of and called it a day.  I fucking can’t stand quarantine.  At least open up the LA beaches so I can surf my usual shitty spring time waves with out a crowd.  Fuck I am going to lose it soon.  Fight the Covid19 Gestapo cause we seem to be losing more rights every single day.

4-22-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 78
All signs pointed to the morning being pretty darn good with a healthy dose of NW wind swell and some WSW ground swell.  This was supposed to be coupled with light winds and a rising tide.  Unfortunately I had to drop Ryan off at the air port at ten relegating my surf to the afternoon.  Luckily for me as it turned out the wind was on it early and all the beaches were wonky and average.  I set out around noon.  Had a look at Rincon.  There were a few, but it was way more crowded then I would have liked for the bread crumbs coming in.  It appears the guys from Malibu’s First Peak are beginning to populate their northern sister point.  Whatever, they can have it.  Rincon sucks on most spring wind swells anyway.  Little ‘Con was tiny and had like five very optimistic guys sitting off the molar rock.  Pat was at the River Mouth at C-Street, but his report was average at best.  I decided to just start at Strand and work my way backwards.  Ship had a wave though a bit soft, and wonky.  There were only a few guys out and I was over looking around.  There was this couple, whom I am assuming must have come up from LA cause I didn’t recognize them.  They both ripped, but the chick was absolutely killing it.  There were five of us out there including her, all competent surfers and she for sure put all of us to shame.  I did manage a few fun ones to my own credit.  Once again it was just another sub par surf.  Seems like this is the new California dream…mediocrity.

4-21-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 78
There was a bit of wind swell getting in. I had hoped we could get Ryan a session at Rincon, but there just wasn’t enough swell to make it happen. The wind was on it at all the Ventura beaches. North Strand, though a bit on the weak side had some lefts coming though at Tower 1 that seemed at the very least palatable. There was this strange rip that was causing a left double up that I managed a few good ones off. I even pulled into a decent little barrel though it clamped on me. Ryan found the left and right of the day. It wasn’t anything great, but we made the most out of it.

4-20-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 66
As per usual the earlier I get up to surf the earlier the wind decided to come up.  Ryan and I wanted to get him some fun waves before he left made the trek south early to Fruit Stands.  We pulled up to at least five knots of WSW wind on it and growing.  Upon checking it I deemed it organized enough to paddle. That changed to completely trashed by the time we walked to the beach and suited up.  On the bright side we had the place to ourselves.  There were some bowly corners out there if you found the right ones.  Though far from inspiring we made the most of it.  Like everything else in 2020 and 4-20 gatherings were a mote point.  What stupid year this has turned out to be.  Thanks Corona.  Later that afternoon we all loaded up into my wife’s SUV cruised to her family’s ranch for some breath taking country vistas, an incredible sunset and a bit of champagne left over from the wedding.

4-19-20 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
Miles Driven: 66
My wife and I got back from our miniature “shelter in place” honeymoon. What strange times these are, almost as strange as writing the word my wife here. Ryan was still in town from Texas and whenever I have a visitor from a wave starved location I try and get them as many waves as possible. There was a bit of south swell running. We decided to jump in the car and find something to surf. Ventura point was small and windy. Rather then deal with the kite boarders we decided to just walk in to Fruit Stands and paddle no matter what. It was a nice day though a bit windy. There were some solid chest plus sets rolling in. Despite the wind on it the banks did their best to hold some semblance of shape. We got out there and I was a bit hungover from a small impromptu post wedding celebration at my wife’s Grandfather’s house. It all started with one glass of wine and before I knew it I was two bottles of red and two bottles of champagne deep. Between the hangover, the chop and sun glare I was feeling pretty rough out there. After a few failed air attempts and a couple of beatings I managed a two banger left and came in. While on the beach I watched Ryan stroke into a freak over head left, pull into a messy close out tube and get annihilated. Good times.

4-18-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Considering I got married yesterday and sprung for a room at the Bacara for two nights unless it was absolutely firing there was no way I was surfing. Luckily the wind was shitty south early trashing what small left overs were out there.

4-17-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 66
I almost didn’t go for a surf this morning on account of my wedding. The ceremony wasn’t until 4:30 leaving me plenty of time to sneak in a quick smash and grab south swell session. Had my wedding not been reduced to a live stream instead of the 180 person extravaganza as a result of Covid19 surfing this morning would have not been possible. With Harbor closed and Oxnard Shores soft and extremely crowded I had to get creative. I had not surfed Fruit Stands in easily eight years or so mostly due to laziness. Not even checking it Angers, Ryan and I suited up and ran down the trail. When we came up over the dunes we were greeted with off shore chest to head high A-frames up and down the beach with only a handful of guys out. We picked a peak to the south all to ourselves and a rip fest ensued. Holy shit was it fun out there. I’m talking barrels, air sections, turns and everything in between. Had the wind not come up I may would have been late to my own wedding. Hands down it was the best surf I have gotten all spring. As far as my wedding goes I will write a blog about it soon. I will say that it was a wonderful event for what it was, full of love. No photo cause I didn’t feel like walking all the way up the trail and then back again just to get a picture. Here is a wedding photo of my wife and I.

4-16-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 126
The south swell was peaking and the winds were finally calm enough to warrant a trip up north. I was not the only one who had this idea. The day use was just about full when Ryan and I pulled up at 10am. There were easily forty guys out from T’s through both Cracks. The sets were solid chest to head plus and though a bit softer than I’d like it to be it was rip-able enough. Ryan jumped in right away while I hung back waiting for the early crew to begin to drop off. Thanks to three separate groups of five packs all leaving in sequential order the line up so thinned out. That was my cue to go for it. I found a decent enough A-Frame between both Cracks all to myself and preceded to make the most of what was on offer. Ryan had a blast and for me that is the most important thing when I have a visitor with me. The wind came up round noon and it was blown out by 1pm. Then it was Jalama burgers and home. My wedding dry run was at 4:30 and we just made it there in time. Everything looks good for tomorrow. We have the live stream in tact and ready. Tomorrow if all goes accordingly I will be married😮.

4-15-20 PM Session: 2-3 ft, C Street
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 58
Thanks to all of the recent bullshit beach closures I found myself yet again stuck at The Point. My buddy and wedding photographer for my wedding on Friday had just flew in and we wanted to get some waves. Though on the small and somewhat busy side we cruised up to the top by the River Mouth section. It was peaky and fun A-frames up and down the beach. Ryan had a brand new Clarks Surfboards Mr. Pocket model he was stoked to try out. When we first got out there it was pretty fun with kill-able south peaks and no one on our section. Towards the end things started get quite busy thus it was time to go. It was definitely a groveler but a fun grovel.

4-14-20 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
Though there was a tad bit more wind swell in the water then yesterday it was still pretty damn small within my scope of influence.  All my reasonable travel to grovel spots with the exception of C Street have all been shut down.  I suffered out there yesterday and was not about to spent the eight bucks in gas to do it again.  Instead I actually had a bit of ding repair to do after that last swell.  One of my boards began to delam cause I had a small rail ding I didn’t bother to fix a month ago that finally caught up with me.  I also had to fix the EPS Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy that the rail got bashed when I hit a random long boarder at Pipes.  I still had a bit to go on that disaster 9’6 I have been working on for the past three months.  Considering my work load I decided to chip away at the block a bit.  There is more swell coming towards the end of the week. Tomorrow my long time friend and photog gets here from Texas to shoot my social distancing, streaming live wedding on Friday.  If you want to watch just message me here or on any of my social media platforms, call or text and I will let you know the details.  Between all of these distractions I will have no time for any ding work for the next foreseeable five days or so.

4-13-20 AM Session: 1-2 ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 58
I didn’t really want to drive to Jalama again for more tiny drained out conditions.  Instead I decided to push my luck and surf some barely ride-able closed C Street.  There were a couple of guys on long boards giving it a go.  I walked up to Pipes with my fish and It would have been fun except the Kelp was so thick on the inside where the tiny waves were breaking that it was near impossible to get any rides.  After an hour of futility I decided to paddle down to stables.  There was a little less kelp, yet still enough to be annoying.  I groveled a few rights and lefts there before ultimately making my way in through the Cove.  It was with out a doubt a full on waste of my time and gas.  Every once and I while I have to put myself through a session like that to remind me why I don’t bother when it is that small.  Rest of my day was spent fixing dings.

4-12-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 126
We tried to get up and out of the house earlier this morning to beat the wind.  Instead my fiance and I got there just in time for the wind to come up as I was suiting up.  It was smaller then yesterday and the tide was super drained.  The only positive to the wind coming up was that the few guys out all left leaving the whole place to me.  I did my best to make the most of the conditions, which was mostly weak closed out wind swell and the occasional crossed up south left over set.  Between the wind and the drained tide it was to say the least challenging.  I made the most of what was put in front of me.  Ultimately the Jalama burger and seeing a mating pair of orioles and two territorial male king fishers go at it were the highlight of the trip.  Later that night I served hand made filet mignon stuffed raviolis and cheater zeppole san giuseppe’s for dessert.  Can’t have Easter dinner without some fresh made pasta and Italian pastry.

4-11-20 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 126
Last night my lady and I got into a bottle of champagne after our usual bottle of wine.  We got a little wild, well as wild as one can get confined to their living room.  We both woke up a bit late and hungover.  After some breakfast and bored out of our minds we diced to cruise up to the J despite the fact that the wind was howling.   Nothing cures a hangover like some waves and Ventura was shut down.  I figured I would just be gnarly and deal with the super chop conditions and the kite boarders.  Torn up it was.  I was far from stoked to jump in right away.  Instead my lady and I hug out on the other side of Tarantellas shielded from the wind.  I was just about over it.  As we were walking back to the car there was this pair of red tail hawks gliding in the wind.  My girl stopped to shoot them and in that time I saw a few corners that looked possibly rip-able.  I hate driving and not surfing so I paddled.  It was about as bad as it looked.  If you waited for the third one of a south set the first two would smooth out the water enough to allow a semi-clean face.  This strategy didn’t always work, but I did manage a few.  Later that night at home I made some killer fried chicken.  One thing I will say not having any work and restaurants closed except for take out and at that point I might as well cook it myself, I have been really enjoying cooking all kinds of meals again.

4-10-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 72
I met Angers down at Shores where it was smaller and even weaker then last night, more crowded too.  The tide was coming up and the swell was dying, both of which is a terrible combination for Shores.  Emma Wood looked unreal when I drove by on the Freeway, but all the State Beaches along the PCH have been completely shut down with cops and rangers hassling any cars that stop.  Angers had to work right there in town so we made the walk up to the Point (all the parking is closed there as well, so one must be creative with parking and even more creative when dodging all the crazy bums while walking to the ocean).  I had just stuck back together a stringerless Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy model I had creased pretty good at Moonstone Beach in Cambria back in October.  The only good thing about the quarantine is that it has given me a chance to resurrect all my old busted boards, though I don’t go to the lengths that Tom Curren does to save his old boards.    The board felt great right off the bat.  I kept the repair lighter then I normally would have if I was fixing it for a customer.  I stuck a fun little backside straight air that I landed in the flats on my third wave and heard a pop.  Upon inspecting my deck I noticed some hair line cracks up and down my repair job.  I knew it was the beginning of the end.  Not going to fix it again I decided I was going to surf till I broke it.  I kid you not the board held out all the way to what would have been my last wave anyhow.  The board by this point was getting a bit dicey.  I could feel it trying to fold up on me on every bottom turn.  A nice chest high runner came right to me.  I stroked into it and on my first set up high pump I put too much pressure on my front foot and the board gave out under me.  My front foot went right through it.  I fell as the wave peeled off down the line with out me.  It was an interesting paddle of shame in as I did my best not to get cut with all of the frayed fiber glass and an even more fun walk of shame back to my car where I had to stop and bull shit with every fool that wanted to know what happened or just plain mocked me.  The is the last time I will put the effort in repairing a creased stringerless board.  None the less the surf was fun while it lasted.

4-9-20 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 72
With a peaking south swell, afternoon low tide and off shore winds I thought Shores would have been the score of the spring.  Instead it was crowded, weak, closed out, dumpy and all over the place, not to mention very inconsistent.  Meanwhile I heard River Mouth was going off except the fact that The Harbor was closed and water as shit brown and stinky as ever with all the rain.  The last time I surfed there when the river was open after a strong rain I got a sinus infection so bad I couldn’t open my eyes for nearly two days.  Ever since I have become more and more susceptible to the dirty water there.  Considering we are living in a time where one needs to be in his best health provided Covid19 comes knocking at your door I passed on the Mouth.  The crowd was stupid with visitors galore.  All the beach closures down south have done is make a bottle neck to our beaches here.  There is also lots of space out at Shores.  The north drift was gnarly strong as the tide dropped also helping control the crowd.  If you didn’t paddle the entire time you were not keeping position.  I think my first wave was my best.  I some how as soon as I got out stroked into an overhead runner that I must have rode for easily seventy five yards down the beach.  After that one I was frothy.  Little did I know that waves like those were few and far between and lining them up even harder.  I did manage a few tubes, came out of even less.  My best combo was on an against the grain right as was my deepest tube.  The water was freezing, the air was freezing it was pouring and after two and half hours of straight paddling I was over it as I usually am with south swells.  At the very least I am lucky I am still allowed to surf.  From what I hear they are shutting down all the beaches in both Ventura and Oxnard at midnight Friday.

4-8-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, C street
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 58
My hope was that there still might be some fun comb up at Indicator.  The NW had pretty much dropped out and the south coming in for the left was very uninspiring.  Angers wanted to surf before work.  Considering the tide, dirty water and issues with the authorities with surfing at the Harbor we decided to park in town and take our chances with authorities at the Point.  On the cam there appeared to be a few people surfing.  Sure enough there were about ten guys on it when we walked up to paddled out.  There were fun looking peaks up and down at Pipes albeit a tad closed out.  The long period of the south swell left quiet long waits between sets and then many were closing out.  That being said there were some really decent bowls and a few tubes as well.  My back was working alright for the majority of the surf.  It really wasn’t until the very end that I began to feel weak out there.  I hit some guy’s long board who decided to bail his board on the inside.  Between the eight foot leash and nine foot board the killing radius got me on my second turn.  End result was that I blew the rail out on the board I had literally just fixed.  It was the poor board’s first go.  Besides that I got a few waves and didn’t get arrested.  I would say it was a rather successful surf..

4-7-20 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs.
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 30
There was some minor NW wind swell on the buoy and some long period 220 WSW.  Considering the tide was five and half feet at 9:30 I had a feeling any beaches south I might have a chance of sneaking onto would be flooded and not worth the potential arrest and subsequent fine.  Rincon had a small but fun looking wave for my Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz fish.  My back was feeling a little better too, that along with a new warm 4/3 from Body Glove and the fact that it is way easier to surf a lined up point break then large mixed up beach break like yesterday I fared a bit better.  Thank God for that cause I was really bummed out after the previous disheartening Jalama session.  I had blast up top and even stuck a full rotation backside air reverse on like my third wave or so.   I would have surfed another hour if my back wasn’t telling me it was time to go.  I noticed these kooks shamers  in masks showed up and filmed the line up for a few minutes.  Fuck them, there were only a handful of us out and everyone was at the least six feet apart, no one was on the beach chilling or the lot as well.  I can’t believe how stoked people are to go out and tattle on others.   I hope every shamer gets Corona and dies since their only purpose to go out of quarantine is to ruin our good time.  Anyone else feel like they are back in high school again? The government officials are like the principal threatening to cancel the senior trip.  The shamers are the fucking hallway monitors getting hard ons for catching you cutting class to smoke cigs behind the gym.  Meanwhile the entire world has endless detention.  Hospitals have become the nurse’s office, overrun with the sick and hypochondriacs.   I fucking hated high school.  No wonder I feel so alienated lately.  Oh, and, gloves and masks are the fucking dress code!!!

4-6-20 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 126
Thanks to all of the kooks from out of town not following the social distancing mandate Ventura finally shut down their beaches today.  Considering the fact that people were still showing up in packed in cars, hanging in both the lot and beach, and illegally parking all over the place at closed parks it was only a matter of time.  Thanks guys so glad that surfers who maybe surf four times a month have ruined it for surfers like myself who surf everyday.  With that in mind I loaded up my car, snatched my girl from work early and we bolted up to Jalama.  For now the park is still open, as unlike LA folks we have been very good at practicing social distancing while still enjoying the out doors here in Santa Barbara.  Please stay home and don’t come up and ruin another for us.  I promise if I see anyone show up to any surf spot with a loaded car from out of town I am going to lash out violently as will others.  At this point I would fear locals more then the Corona virus cause we are going to do whatever it takes to protect the few out posts afforded to us from kooks.  That being said though very mixed up from all of the short period wind swell; mainly a six second WSW and a nine second WNW, coupled with a four second NW and the occasional long period south swell forerunner.  You can imagine how all over the place it was.  My back was hurting more then usual limiting my range of motion putting a serious strain on my reaction time.  The water was freezing also.  It had to be in the mid fifties.  I did the best I could, but ultimately felt rather old out there unfortunately.  I managed a sick suck up tube I didn’t make it out of and two alright lefts.  After the surf I promised my lady a Jalama burger.  Considering how nice it was out we decided to take the little Chumash walk along the campground river where my lady was chased away by an six foot snake who apparently did not understand the social distancing agenda.  Good times.

4-5-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Wind, rain and stormy conditions kept me at home today.  The consensus I got from down south was windy and junky.  I almost made a Jalama run, but got lazy and instead just sat on the couch and watched movies all day.  The high productivity rate I once had at the start of the quarantine has long since dwindled down to a trickle, especially with no reasonable end in sight.  From what I gather we will be lucky if we can come back out by the fall.

4-4-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 84
After weighing all the morning intel from various contacts I ended up at Strand.  There was potential there except it was still very fat with the high tide.  To kill some time I drove over to Shores, where it was with out a doubt too high and all over the place.  I played that game yesterday.  Back the Strand I went and just paddled the Ship.  Though a little soft there were some left bowls coming through from Ship to Tower 5 with a handful of guys out.  Everyone who was out was local cause I recognized all.  When I first paddled I was in a pretty good rhythm and felt rather competent out there.  As my surf wore on my back began to get weak.  Subsequently so did my surfing.  My lady has me on a bit of yoga regime now and I am hoping this will show results.  If things do not get better when all of this Corona shit is over I will go see specialist and find out what is going on.  I know I am getting old, but I still feel like I am too young to be crippled by a back problem.  Time will tell.  Also let me say that everyone I came across today in the water and the beach were all practicing very good social distancing.  FYI Ventura has shut down all beach parking lots, parks and all parking along the PCH Sea Cliff area.  Rincon was still open as of this afternoon.  Remember if you are going for a surf be safe, smart and follow the rules.

4-3-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 72
I got word from Angers that Shores was fun and he was on it.  Considering the buoys I was in no position to contest.  I got there and the place was fucking packed.  There had to be 300 guys from end to end.  I didn’t recognize anyone parked around where I was.  From the sound of their speak I estimated all were from LA cause it reminded me of the drivel I am forced to endure when surfing the Malibu beaches.  To add injury to insult they came in droves of four and five packs.  Some with audacity to pack all into one SUV!!!  Now Shoes is a bit stretch of beach with plenty of room to spread out.  These idiots were crowded three peaks.  SOCIAL DISTANCING PEOPLE!!!!  I walked down to the Hotel and found a peak all to myself and the few other guys, local guys all whom I did recognized were surfing there on separate peaks as well.  I found a few good ones, but it was a bit wobbly and mixed up with the short period wind swells.  The water was even colder then yesterday making me feel really stiff out there.  I had one barrel I was sort of pumped on and a few hits here and there.  When I got out of the water, bare in mind I was one of the last guys standing after the wind came up, I came over the dunes to my car and there was about ten guys hanging out bull shitting post surf.  These fools are going to get it all shut down.  How hard is it to show up, surf a peak alone or distanced yourself from others, change at your car and drive away, ALONE!!!  If these LA kooks get my beaches closed and I can’t surf when everything does open up again I am going down there with bus full of my friends and go out of my way to ruin their time.  Fuck I am so fucking angry!!!!! More then that I am really disappointed in everyone.

4-2-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 78
The wind was on it from sun up this morning.  There was enough south and NW wind swell for there to be waves some where.  I got word that Strand was jumbled but had some head high sets.  Angers had looked at Shores and thought it rather junky and met me at the Ship.  Though head high it was so jumbled that there was little to no scoring potential, not to mention it was packed for how bad it was.  Angers almost out of time before worked made the call that we should run up to the Point and just paddled.  When we got there we found all the lots to be closed.  Rather then risk a ticket in the 24 minute parking we opted to park on the other side of the freeway and walk up.  It was nothing special although for the first hour we pretty much had Pipes to ourselves.  I assume because of the lot closures.  I was surfing alright for a change despite my back really bothering me.  The freezing cold water hasn’t helped either.  I guess we made it look too much fun on the cam cause people just kept showing up till it was easily fifty strong from top to bottom.  When I got out of the water surfers were illegally parked along the road all the way past the closed free lot.  Stupid shit like that is what is going to get the beaches shut down.  It is ironic that surfers are what got surfing banned at most beaches in California.  Fucking Idiots!!!! Following my surf I spent an hour at Lowes to buy a bird feeder and seed.  The crowds at the few stores still open is absurd.  I guess American consumerism has brain washed everyone to shop no matter what the product.  If you haven’t noticed this whole Covid19 thing has caused me to feel an even greater sense of disdain for the human race.

4-1-20 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 72
My first mistake was having high hopes for today.  Between the forecasts and buoy readings I went to bed thinking I might score a few fun ones today.  Despite a healthy dose of wind swell and some long period south swell it was rather tiny.  To make matters worse the shape at River Mouth was atrocious.  The only some what redeemable ones were coming in at the bar right in front of the mouth, where there were maybe two goods ones very fifteen minutes with easily fifteen guys out.  I met Angers over at Shores, though it had potential it was too small for the bars.  In hindsight we probably should have paddled there.  Instead we found a closed out peak just north of the crowded one in order to practice safe social distancing.  All of the beach parking lots at the Harbor were closed.  In order to access the beach one has to park on the street.   There was definitely an increased police presence yet at the moment they were not hassling beach goers or surfers.  I am sure if people keep crowding peaks it is only a matter of time.  There are miles of beach from the Knoll lot all the way to the Power Plant.  If the peak you want to surf is already maxed out please move on to another for all of our sake and spread out while at said peaks.  I wanted to go surf the River bar, but I am not going to be part of the problem.  It wasn’t that much better there anyway.