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Archive for the ‘Blast from the past 2010’ Category

This weeks Blast from the past is from the rather recent past, March of 2010, but being that I quoted it in Groovin’ High I felt it prudent to repost the blog here at SurfingRuinedMyLife.net as opposed to just linking the Myspace since I am trying to eradicate that link all together.  This was originally a UCB requested by none other then Kooky Kyle on my thoughts about time travel.  As always anything in red I added to the blog for this most recent posting.

This week’s UCB is won by Kooky Kyle despite my irate feelings towards him for not showing up to his scheduled Chris Lisanti Adventure Tour and subsequently causing me to miss an all expense paid trip to Costa Rica (for more on this you will have to wait for this week’s week in review blog) the kid still manages to throw down some of the best and most frequent submissions of topics. Him not coming out to SB was his loss anyway Im sure it was much more fun for him to sit around Wrightsville with his thumb up his ass on spring break instead of running wild in Santa Barbara. I was planning on banning Kooky from my home here for life, but then he put down a healthy deposit on a J7 for me thus rightfully atoning for his impetuousness. Ironically the board ended up being to robust for me forcing me to sell it Mauriello for a deal and a half. Kooky asked if Doc Brown showed up in the Flux capacitor laden Delorean and offered me the keys to car when and where would I travel to in the many folds of the time travel nexus or maybe I would just settle for a time traveling phone booth and George Carlin (props if you know what I am referencing in this last part).

To be honest as enticing as time travel is the complexity, dangers to humanity, damage to the time space continuum and overall responsibility involved is way to much for me. If we are based in a single universe time travel is impossible as a direct result to causality. Say you travel back in time and prevent your own personal conception, then you would have never existed to travel back in time in the first place. Yet if you wish to think of the possibility to the existence of an infinite number of universes as proposed through quantum physics stating that for every situation encounter each possible outcome is played out thus splitting that one instance into as many sub-universes as possible and then those will branch off and so on and so forth making an infinite number of universes existing at the same moment. In this case then you would be able to travel in time and prevent your own personal existence cause it would only be in on possible universe that would not exist.

If the latter example then technically are you really traveling in time or just another out come of your original decision to travel through time in the first place and then what is the actual reality of the world you have traveled too? Lost yet. Time travel is pretty fucking complicated. That is just the little inkling of research that I have done on the topic over the years considering it is a topic that has captivated me since I was young.

Science aside lets for arguments sake go against the above idea of multiple dimensions and look at time travel in the pure Hollywood sense of things. Using “Back to the Future” for example where you type the date and time in and are then transported in that very spot to whatever time you plot.  If you were to do this haven’t you already drastically changed the course of history? We don’t really know how very little change can eventually kick off a catastrophic event. Look at a fist size rock for example sitting on the edge of a cliff. Maybe when your time machine lands and taps that rock over the cliff. That rock hits into other rocks, which hit other rocks and next thing you know you have landslide.

Once you step out of that time machine you have already changed history. How drastic completely depends on circumstance. Then what future would you be going back to if you could even get there? Our universe is wholly based upon causality and the cause and effect to the time travel that we speak of may take a heavier toll then we can even imagine. The whole business is a little too much for my feeble brain to get a handle on. Sorry but I think I will keep my feet firmly planted here in 2010 and hope that humans never decide to travel in time, although if we are going with the universe based on causality then time travel could have already happen and this is the result? The whole the thing is an endless web of mind fuck.

Doc Brown Says it all right there.

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Last night I posted a blog regarding a video clip of me pussing out in Dane Reynolds latest Marine Layer Down Load.  This weeks Blast from the past is the actual blog from that session posted on 4/23/10.

I have in my now almost 3 decades of living in the lore of the surf experienced a wide range of waves at home and afar.  It was not hence this week that I was put in front of a wave I had absolutely no vocabulary for.  Mix in some serious size and power and a challenge of immense propensity arose.

For over a year now I have been enticed by the idea of a seemingly mystical and very exclusive wave located south of Santa Barbara on a highly secure naval base.  My photographer Dave has a pass, veritable “Golden Ticket” so to speak, being that his father is in the service.  Up until this time we had made several attempts none successful at getting this wave to work.  He had long dangled the idea of a wave most consider too heavy to surf in front of me since our affiliation, I was yet to experience such although had gotten inkling of such from prior recon and a brief clip of Dane Reynolds there (although at the time had not idea it was the same spot).  Most I have talked to about said spot claim it as one of the best waves in California.

On Monday (4-12) there was forecasted south activity to move in towards the end of the week, banking on this we had made plans to make another attempt at the base.  Conditions looked best for Thursday (4-15) and the stage was set, whether for a tragedy or a comedy still unknown.  Given the distance south from Santa Barbara we struck out early just before the sunrise and headed on the fifty mile trek south.  There is nothing worse then waking up at 4:30.

The way down felt like it took an eternity although less then an hour.  Both of us were rather apprehensive on what we were to discover.  We joked the entire way about getting skunked yet again, the base being the biggest lie in southern California, of Dane and his filmer being there and challenging us to a duel, anything to calm our nerves.  I brought two boards, my standard 5’10 J7 and this Simon Andersan 5’11 round tail I have been carting around since the fall of 08’, still a trusty soldier despite its age and being broken through the nose by a careless airline baggage handler.  The great boards of man are always seemingly ruined by the hands of the airlines, I believe almost every traveling surfer can attest to that little adage.

We get on the base undisputed by the guard and cruise up to the parking lot.  Already there are more cars there then we had ever seen, a very good sign.  Stepping out of the car the booming of breaking waves became prevalent and spray could be seen just making it above the sea wall (it stands a good 12 feet or so above sea level).  Dave got over the top of the wall first and let out a yelp with a huge grim across his face.  I climb up and all I could see was perfectly oil glass overhead bowls throwing out as wide as one can imagine with four guys on it and a crowd of body boarders charging some disgusting triple up practically breaking on the sea wall to the south.

Then a set came and it was solid eight to ten feet, sucking up to solid double overhead, I have not seen that much spit from a tube since my time at Pipe.  Needless to say I was back at the car, into my wetsuit and out in the lineup before you could drop a hat.  As I climbed down the seawall to beach level Dane’s videographer was on the beach tucked into the rocks.  I was about to paddle out to the middle peak to get my bearings but he cat called me to paddle to the main peak with Dane.

I jumped in and though it was between sets just ducking under the little one’s I could tell that this break had some serious force to it.  I get out there and I was completely dumfounded.  There were waves coming in from every direction, south, north, west, parallel to the beach.  On top of that there was side wash, back wash and contradicting currents between both the inside and the outside.  Basically there was a ton of mother fucking water moving around.

Dane was going ballistic doing no paddle take offs into deep below sea level pits finishing off with an array of eight-foot airs.   As for me I found myself absolutely at a loss on what to do with this crazy left bowl/wedge thing that was on set sucking up to solid double overhead.  Basically I kooked it shoulder hopping most, bailing through the back on sections I was not confident about and I even pulled back on three waves, one of which was one of the best waves of the session and in front of everyone in the lineup. Now immortalized thanks to Dane and the internet.

After that one Dane paddled up to me and told me to get my shit together and everyone else just had the dirtiest stink eye for me.  What can I say the place was gnarly and I had no idea how to surf it, not to mention where the waves were breaking was no more then knee deep.  I was tested and was beaten failing miserably.  Since that day I vowed to learn that wave and master it so that next time its on I can surf it to my full potential.  I still am far from mastering it feeling like a kook the most recent time I was there.

Funny thing is I went back there Saturday (4-17) and it was smaller around chest to head with the occasional bigger set and it still kicked my ass, although I did feel as though I was beginning to understand it more.  I guess it is finally time for a new surfing challenge to be brought about in my life.  Usually summer here is all about the grovel but I guess this year its going to be about the charge.  We only surfed and filmed there maybe a dozen times at best this summer and never saw it as good as this day was.

 

One of the bigger ones I caught that day.

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