December 2015 Surf Sessions
12-31-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
It was New Years Eve. I had a moving gig in the morning and then tons of little errands to get out of the way before the big night and the end of the year.
12-30-15 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
I had to work a 12 hour day of moving. Looked like there was a fun waves to be had at the points. Making money comes first these days.
12-29-15 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
I had a moving job that ran till about 1pm where I happened to score a new coffee table. I must announce briefly here, look for a blog about this new development soon, that the coffee table saga is now over…Anyway after the job I caught up with Bizarro and we headed south to shoot. Rincon was decent enough though packed for what was on offer. Then we did the usual drive around before just settling on Emma Wood, which was average at best as usual. Whoot. I did manage to snag a few alright ones.
12-28-15 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Not much on offer out there today. I had a look at New Jetty but it was far from enticing. Instead I drove to SLO to go to a close friend of mine’s dad’s funeral. If I have learned anything in this life its that one must be there for his friends and visa versa.
12-27-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
It was super small and windy. I had a look at Ventura Harbor and Strand. Neither one looked all that appetizing over I decided to grab some all your can eat Sushi with Bizarro.
12-26-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Sunset Cliffs, San Diego
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Biz and I were over at the San Diego swap meet when I got a call from Lindsay that the Cliffs were offshore and fun. We made a full speed push to get there. When we did the wind was already changing on shore. Lindsay and Johnny were already on it. Considering things I really needed a surf and paddled. There was sort of a reform reef left that was almost organized. I ended up getting a few and it was nice to get back in the water.
12-25-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Christmas morning Biz and I cooked breakfast for some of his family. The wind was up pretty strong and I didn’t really have a reference on where to go with such conditions. I called Lindsay whom happened to be down visiting her folks with her boyfriend. They said the cliffs had some fun wedges. It looked mostly blown out and disorganized to me. Over it we decided to adjourn to the house for a bit of Christmas cognac.
12-24-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I wasn’t very motivated about getting out of bed this morning. Bizarro and I had to drive south at some point for San Diego. Ryan said Strand had a wave and we figured we would give it a look on the way down. The wind came up so over it we decided to just cruise to LA and do a little thrifting. I must say it was quite the lucrative experience. I cleaned house.
12-23-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
More wind, some morning bull shit and a few obligatory appoints kept me busy anyhow. What a shit year for surfing.
12-22-15 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
I had a catering gig in the morning. That was fine cause the wind was shit anyways. I thought I may have an afternoon surf, but that was a lie. Town was only about waist high and down the coast completely blown out. With my knee still healing I decided to bag it.
12-21-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Strand was the call this morning. I had to be up at Westmont for an organizational meeting at 1pm and just didn’t feel like doing the extra driving. I was hoping Emma would be decent enough. It wasn’t. Finally I found myself on the dunes at Ventura Harbor staring at a less then Stellar New Jetty. Being that it was better then Emma and Trevor said Rincon was beat I paddled. It was mostly just the reform right going back at the Jetty, which I am not the biggest fan of. Some how I managed to twist my knee as well. Its not terrible and I don’t think it will cost me any water time at least. When I passed Rincon on the way into work it looked like there was a few up top. I need to trust my surf instincts more.
12-20-15 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
First I went to Strand, which is where I should have stayed. It looked below average at best, crowded for what was on offer and windy. Over it I took a gamble at the points. Pitas look alright, but it was more crowded with more guys showing up then I would like. I definitely would have got my share. I have been out on days like that before and every time I either get run over, hurt and run over or my board gets damaged as I get run over. Over it I went back to Emma Wood where I saw a few draining rights with no one on it. I saw some tubes and with the incoming tide I saw some real potential. I called Bizarro to come and shoot and I paddled. Right off the bat I picked off a sick draining tube. By the time Bizarro showed up the wind must have clocked a bit more south and pretty much trashed the surf. At least I got the one shack.
12-19-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
I was hoping to get Strand on low tide. Once again the wind had other ideas. Once again I ended up at a less then stellar Emma. The crowd was light and I wanted to surf so I paddled. It was small but I got a few off the toll booth peak. Then it started to rain and then it got windy. Considering the fact that it wasn’t all that good to begin with and then it went from bad to worse I was over it and bailed. Turns out the wind went off shore and Strand was fun right before dark.
12-18-15 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
The wind was light and Emma had a fun little bowl coming in with a light crowd. I jumped in and began to dismantle the small yet seemingly palatable peaks. Not the most inspiring session ever though it got the blood flowing. It was actually quite the pretty winter morning.
12-17-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I got up to go surf. My girlfriend asked me to stay and chill with her. The surf wasn’t anything to write home about thus I complied.
12-16-15 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I guess the morning was decent enough. I was feeling a bit lazy since I had to work the late night shift and stayed in bed later then I probably should have. Whatever It was far from epic anyway. I had a look around in the afternoon, but the wind was on it and the surf small leading to my eventual need to be over it.
12-15-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Bizarro and I linked up for an afternoon shoot. The hope was that low tide Rincon would be fun. It wasn’t. I heard Strand was still good so we booked it down there. Of course by the time we did the wind had came up and blown everything to shit. Over it we cruised to Emma for another case of the best of the worst. There was a little inside reform off of the overhead reef that was sort of barreling and sort of rip-able but mainly it was either closed out or weak. I did manage a few. The current was a fucking river and it didn’t take long after I paddled out and found a couple of good ones for the crowd to get on it.
12-14-15 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
More bad wind. This El Nino is way more stormy then the 2009 one. I have less time afforded to me in my schedule then back then and maybe my priorities are different. The waves I have gotten have been totally worth it.
12-13-15 No Surfing: 3-5 ft
More bad winds and high tide kept me over it. Why kill the sick buzz from yesterday.
12-12-15 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
My boy Gabe was in town and we wanted to get a few waves and not sit in an obnoxious Saturday crowd. The idea was to take the risk and give Naples a go. Bizarro came along to document the surf. It wasn’t the best I have ever gotten it, but Seals was solid chest to head with bigger sets. The wind was side shore/offshore and there was no one out. The tide was a bit drained and some of the sets were walled and racy down the reef. There was also a bit of early season sand making it even more fast. Still I managed some screamers, even found a barrel. Naples is always a good idea. It was the surfing experience I have really needed.
12-11-15 No Surfing: 8-10 ft
Victory at sea was the call. There was a close coastal storm in the northern Pacific. It tore the fuck out of the surf. I am sure there were a few nooks and crannies around that may have been fun. I had work so that was that.
12-10-15 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I was on my way to Rincon when I saw some solid swell coming in to Pitas. Rather then deal with the zoo at ‘Con I paddled Pitas which was still pretty solid. There were about four guys up top and another three at Faria. I worked my way down the point and found plenty of runners. It wasn’t epic but it was pretty fun.
12-9-15 AM Session: 2-4+ ft
Time in Water: 1 hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 18
The buoys looked solid and the tide was high. I gave Hammonds a look and sure enough it was solid to chest to head high plus with only three guys on it. I got out there and there were some real sick ones coming down the reef. I love hammonds its such a good wave.
12-8-15 No Surfing: 4-6+ ft
I really wanted to surf, but I had to take a food safety and subsequent certification test. I actually woke up at six, but then got lazy when I saw how high the tide was. I suppose I should have paddled cause I heard it was fun at Hammonds. I was hoping to get few waves after my class. Unfortunately the class and test ran longer then I thought and it was dark by the time I was finished. Damn daylight savings time.
12-7-15 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Last night Bizarro, my girl and I rolled to the Cat. We had a pretty good time. Needless to say I was in no shape to surf this morning. Heard the swell really came up for the afternoon.
12-6-15 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
Lets face the facts I don’t really surf anymore. Nah, actually I have just been really busy with other stuff that has been filling my life in a very positive way. I plan on finding more surf time soon.
12-5-15 No Surfing: 4-7 ft
I woke up late the weekend crowd sucked and ultimately I was over it.
12-4-15 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
I met Ryan at Hobsons, which looked some what fun though disorganized thanks to some strange short period bump. There was with out a doubt a solid left. I couldn’t get a parking space and ultimately with the clock running opted to cruise into Santa Barbara to surf something there. I saw a solid set break at Sharks from the 101. With out a choice I parked and made the run to the point. It was a bit on the small side and the south wind had torn it up a bit not to mention the drained tide. Still I found a couple sick ones. I need to get motivated and focused on surfing again. No photo cause Sharks is not really in plain sight of anywhere.
12-3-15 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Surf was sort of down, there was more swell on the way. The lazy unmotivated me decided to bag it.
12-2-15 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
The morning winds were less then desirable and I had some errands to run that were not avoidable. I had a look around Rincon being the best of the lot. There was still a solid amount of wnw swell getting in and the crowd was super light. Stoked I paddled the River Mouth section and started to unload on it. I was in the zone and could do no wrong. Sometimes the crowd gets me so frustrated out there that I forget how good a wave Rincon really is. What a surf, one of the best I have had in a long time.
12-1-15 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Early morning crowds were intense rather then fight the pack since I had the day free I decided to wait a bit till the masses got surfing out of their systems. My plan worked cause I found myself at the Faria section of Pitas with only four other guys out. We traded off chest to head high plus runners. I had a few sick ones. The tide was a bit high but it was still decent enough. The climb out was a bit hectic though totally worth it.
Surfing Ruined My Life 