Surfing Ruined My Life

June 2016 Surf Sessions

6-30-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 40
In California your entire life is made or broken as a result of traffic on the freeway and today I got to have such an experience.  I left a tad later then I should have considering I had to get back to SB by 11 for a gig. The plan was to go to Emma Wood to take advantage of all the combo swell in the water.  Just as I passed Rincon the 101 was all backed up as a result of a tractor trailer truck accident.  When I finally got to the Sea Cliffs exit I was just about out of time and had to turn around and head back.  On a last ditch effort I had a look at Rincon.  It was far from decent though I did see a few lefts coming through.  I made a dash and a paddle.  Between the dropping tide and steadily increasing wind the conditions went from bad to absolute shit.  Definitely one of those days I should have saved my gas and stayed at home.

6-29-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Traveled: 139
I guess I felt like doing a bit of car surfing this morning.  First off I had a really hard time getting out of bed this morning.  I don’t know if I was just sore from my Zeros froth yesterday or what.  When I finally got out the door I headed for Ventura Harbor.  There was a bit more NW wind swell in the water closing out the River Mouth and a bit of wsw wind tearing it up.  New Jetty had a wave though it looked rather drifty and dumpy not to mention the fact that it had eight guys on it with hardly enough waves for six.  I figured I would go and check Pitas considering the NW in the water and the tide.  That was a bust.  I decided to just go back to New Jetty and surf that, but by the time I got there the wind got really bad and it looked like absolute dog shit.  At that point I was left with no other option but to go south towards Malibu.  I wasn’t in the mood to do Zero’s again. I was in a County Line mood actually. If such a mood exists.  Maybe I wanted to punish myself for not getting up and going to Jalama this morning as I had initially intended.  There were scattered peaks the crowd on the reef was not that bad as a result of the low tide causing everything to be very close to the rocks.  It was far from decent, average at best.  I was there and over driving thus I paddled.  I managed a few forgettable ones. If the expression “life is all about the journey” then I suppose I really lived today. Surfing is lame.

6-28-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros, Malibu
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 41
Miles Driven: 123
I was torn between Jalama or Ventura this morning.  Feeling a bit lazy I chose the latter and was rewarded with drained, windy conditions.  Not feeling like sitting around and waiting four hours for the tide to change I decided to cruise to Malibu in search of left overs and cleaner conditions.  At the very least I knew I could get a few at County Line.  Considering the tide I had a look at Zeros where the lines were rather clean though a bit small and the crowd very light. Rather then run around looking for waves like a chicken with out a head I decided to paddle.  Though far from the best I have every surfed the spot the lines were actually running down the reef rather decent.  It was good for what it was.
6-27-16 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 90
The universe was against having a good session today.  Despite the odds stacked up against me I still managed a sick little surf.  It all started this morning when my girlfriend bailed on our supposed Malibu trip as a result of lethargy.  I blew the morning glass on that idea and was left with a steadily dropping south swell with a steadily rising tide.  Bizarro decided to come along and we headed to the Harbor.  The wind was a bit up out of the SW and things were not looking too inviting.  I had seen some nuggets at the Gold Coast and headed back there.  Of course the north bound entrance to the area was closed forcing me to have to drive all the way around to Stanley’s 12 miles out of my way.   Immediately following that detour Sea Cliffs was closed down to one lane with alternating flag only traffic.  After all of this bullshit I found myself staring at a very small and uninviting Gold Coast.  As usual when my back is against the wall I settle for Emma Wood.  Though not spectacular there were a few barrels and boost-able sections with a light crowd and nice conditions to film.  We were on it.  Some how I managed to step in a giant ball of tar on the way out causing the entire deck of my board to became covered with black foot prints.  Right off the bat I nailed a few till this stupid ass kid with a go pro filming himself body surfing got in my way forcing me to draw a strange bottom turn that sucked up the tail free hit I was going for.  I came down on top of my board and broke my left side fin out.  I ran back to my car to see if I had a spare set.  I did, but i didn’t have any screws since I was using the new FCS2 fin system which doesn’t have screws in the box and my spare set was FCS1. Over it I decided to ride the board anyway with this strange asymmetrical fin set up.  My first few I ate shit on.  Once I learned how to adjust my attack for the less then applicable fin set up I began really turning things up.  I ended up salvaging the session and shoot.  I somehow was able to boost airs and get tubed.  On my last wave I hit a huge backside air reverse that I fell on snapping my leash in the process.  That was the final straw.  If the powers that be really wanted me to stop surfing that bad to cause complete equipment failure I was not about to push the envelope any farther.

6-26-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
Miles Driven: 93
When I got home from the club last night bombed as usual I was surprised with a sleeping Trevor on my couch.  I suppose that is why I don’t lock my door so that my friends have a place to go when in need.  In the morning him, Gabe and I headed south in the hopes of another day of barrels at River Mouth.  I opened my front door and low and behold there was another 12 pack of soda 3/4’s of the way full of soda.  This time it was Bargs root beer box, my favorite.  Thanks again mystery soda gifter.  We got down to the River Mouth and the wind was all over it.  From there we car surfed to every posible south option along Sea Cliffs before settling for a desperation paddle at Emma Wood.  What looked like nothing special turned into a full on rip session.  I think  it was the most fun I have had at Emma in months.  Super Stoke.

6-25-16 AM Session: 6-8+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 64
Last night got a tad out of hand and I didn’t make it to sleep till 5 am.  Gabe came knocking on my bedroom door at 9:30am wanting to surf.  I knew it was going to pretty solid with rather light wind and the south swell still macking.  I pulled myself together and we cruised picking up Trevor on the way.  Sure enough River Mouth was gang busters though a bit on the washy side and the current was definitely ripping down the beach.  I was in no shape for those kind of conditions.  Then again there were some really hallow ones out there and one thing I am not is a barrel dodger.  We paddled and right off the bat I snagged a medium sized one pulled in and came out.  After that I had some difficulty positioning and I was also still learning this new board not to mention my hangover was coming on fast.  Taking all of this into account I was not about to throw myself over the ledge on every wave that came in.  As the tide began to fill in things got a bit more manageable and the wind completely died making it glassy as fuck in the middle of the day.  From there I really began to find my rhythm and got some very cherry ones.  Good times.  Oh I almost forgot that when I walked out of my front door there was 3/4’s of a 12 pack of coke outside my door.  Don’t know how, where or who it came from but whom ever you are thanks for the free soda.
6-24-16 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 81
The swell peaked this morning causing havoc at most spots. Ventura Harbor had lots of water moving around with big sweeping sets.  I saw a few corners, but in about twenty minutes of watching I didn’t see any of the 30 guys out make a wave. I had a look at the Shores but it was way too soft.  I decided to just paddle River Mouth and take my chances.  Of course as I was turning my suit right side in the wind began to come up out of the SW adding a bit more bump on it then I was willing to deal with. I cruised north and had a look at all the usual suspects off of Sea Cliffs.  The Gold Coast seemed like the best option being there were still some solid tubes and that it was the most make-able.  I paddled and right off the bat I picked off a nice FS tube, followed by a thick meaty doubled up drainer on the next one that I managed a double barrel on.  Unfortunately I was pretty worked from all the surfing the past few days and burnt out faster then I would have liked.  Tested a new board today and I must say it went rather well.

6-23-16 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
Miles Driven: 64
Before we get into today’s surf report I have added a new archive to this log I wish to call miles driven.  I realized after last swell when I drove nearly 1000 miles in six days for the pursuit of surf that I ought to begin keeping a record of just how much effort surfing really is for the core Santa Barbara surfer.  This mileage will be based on the round trip from my door to the final beach I decide to surf and back again.  I got down to Harbor and was greeted by one of my favorite summer sights, spitting barrels in every direction.  Stoked I didn’t hesitate to suit up and run down the beach to the River Mouth.  I was joined by Ryan and Angers later joined the party.  The three of us were greeted with a barreltastic session.  The current was rather intense and some of the big sets were sweeping through the lineup down the beach. If you were in the right spot and were privy there were rewards in the barrel form to be had.  I wove my way through a few sickies and even hit one solid full rotation ally oop toward the end of my surf.  I saw Angers get what may have been the wave of the day on his second to last one.  Good times.

6-22-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
There were three swells running, the NW wind swell from the past two days on its decline, the short period south from yesterday and new long period south that is to fill in over the next few days.  Ryan called me to let me know that the Harbor had waves and favorable winds and on the way down the new south was rather evident.  I pulled up and New Jetty had a similar wave as the other day, but a bit more crowded.  River Mouth had peaks up and down the beach with maybe a dozen or so guys spread out. My choice was made.  I ran down to the south end of the opening and found a rather decent peak.  Gabe met up with me and we traded some really fun barrels and kill-able peaks.  Good times.
6-21-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
The wind swell was still running and a new minor short period south was beginning to fill in as well.  Gabe and I started Emma Wood hoping for a repeat of the previous night.  Unfortunately the tide was a bit drained and the wind swell a tad down leaving meager offerings and there was already about six guys on it.  On a hail Mary we had a look at the Harbor.  To our surprise New Jetty was actually working with a reasonable crowd.  We paddled and for the first time in a very long time I was in the zone.  Maybe it was the yoga I did with my girl in the morning coupled with a preemptive strike of Ibprophrine.   All I know is that I had a solid command of my surfing and very limited amount of pain.  Gabe struggled a bit to find his rhythm, but still managed a couple of keepers.
  6-20-16 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45mins 
Waves Surfed: 18
We all went on a Lisanti Land feild trip, Gabe, Bizarro, my girl and I down to Oxnard to do a bit of shopping.  After which courtesy of some fresh wind swell Gabe and I hit up Emma Wood for some fun wind swell peaks.  Biz shot a roll as well.  It was classic wind swell Emma.  I love it like that.  Right off the bat I picked off a handful of good ones.  Then my back began to ware on me signifying the degradation of my surf session.  On my last wave I went for a heavy floater, landed super hard and flat thus aggravating my back that much more. We ended the night with a fun foray at Denny’s taking full advantage of the $2,$4, $6 and $8 menu.   Photo to come in a day or so when I pull the pictures off my DSLR.

6-19-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Last night I tried a novel idea for myself.  I stayed in and kept it mellow with my chick on a Saturday night.  I must say I certainly wonder why people stay in on a weekend night when there is so much fun and action going on out and about.  To each their own I suppose. Truthfully I was hoping that since it was the tail end of the swell that maybe the period would have dropped enough for Santa Clara to be fun and with a little luck we might get a reprieve from these horrid south westerly winds.  Well neither factor really played out for me this morning.  Rather then waist the gas and my back I decided to call it a day.

6-18-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Man I took a trip to full fancytown last night as did my girl friend.  I was rather useless for the first half of the day to say the least.  I would like to thank my mom for calling me at 9am and forcing a conversation in the midst of me being in that in between drunk and hungover stage.   Not that my demeanor mattered since the wind was all over it anyway.  At least the south swell from hell went out the way it came in, with shitty wind and overall conditions.

6-17-16 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Well I didn’t want to drive to Malibu for yet another day for an average at best surf and I really wanted to try to get back to my regular everday life.  I saw a few at New Jetty and it was the best of the worst for the morning.  There were a few lefts coming off the Jetty with only two guys out and they were barely catching anything.  The Wedge had a handful out surfing it.  It didn’t look bad, but since I hurt my back there I opted to not surf it.  Also on south swells the current pushing you into the jetty can make it a rather hectic session.  I jumped in and the current pushing down the beach was a river.  I pretty much had to paddle non-stop to stay still let alone go backwards.  The waves themselves were gnarly fast and steep and with the strong drift surfing them was difficult to say the least.  I managed a few, but to do it I had to make a dozen walk arounds.  I guess I came up losing this south swell.

6-16-16 PM Session: 4-7+ ft, Little Dume
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
I really just wanted to stay somewhat local today.  Well as local as one can stay in Santa Barbara during the summer.  All the Ventura waves looked like shit with the south wind and swell angle. I was about to desperation paddle Emma Wood when my boy Angers called me and said he was going to Malibu and had a seat for me.  Since I had nothing better to do I accepted the invitation and we rolled south bound.  The south swell was macking down that way.  County was a mess, Leo closed out, Zeros washy. We found ourselves at Dume.  Big Dume was a tad crowded and a bit messed up with the south wind.  We made the call to hike into Little Dume hoping for the best.  There was plenty of surf getting in though a little washy.  We started at the very top of the point. Angers got one right off the bat leaving me all by myself out the back to dodge a solid 10 foot set stacked eight deep.  Luckily I made it through.  The next set I snagged a solid bomb. My board was a bit small for the task and I found myself tick tacking down the face to little avail.  After that I was stuck in no man’s land for a solid hour getting shit before I made it to the inside where I finally was able to get a few decent reform bowls.  All and all I would say it was a bit too walled for my liking today.  On the walk back Dume looked decent.  Guess we should have just paddled there.

6-15-16 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
There was plenty of swell abound and plenty of shitty wind as well.  All the good spots around were plagued with bad sw wind and all the spots that had a shot on such conditions were average at best.  My back was still a bit inflamed from all the surfing I have done the past few days.  Rather then work myself further for average at best waves I decided to take the day off.   There are plenty of waves in the forecast and no reason to over do it. The double session yesterday was with out a doubt a little to much for me to handle.

6-14-16 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
After the disheartening Zuma surf I really wanted some redemption.  Angers just really wanted to surf County Line and Gabe super stoked on his first surf was down for anything.  The after work crowd was out in full force on the reef.  The south corner of the beach break looked kill-able enough with only a handful of guys on it.  Angers shined this surf and managed a few sick ones.  I managed one stupid gnarly barrel in the shore break before paddling to the reef where I lucked into a set wave right hander that was my best wave of the entire day.  Overall it was far from the most fruitful Malibu day for me, but with out a doubt the best I was going to find today.

6-14-16 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Zuma, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
My morning began at Ventura Harbor as it usually does this time of year.  Of course the wind was already on it and what little south was trickling in looked like shit. I had Gabe with me and we decided to go back to Malibu once again.  My boy Angers hit me up looking to surf and with an extra seat we were obliged to take him along for the ride.  Immediately once around Mugu rock we could see plenty of swell with minimal wind.  There was a bit of combo in the water and with the tide I had a feeling Zuma might be the call.  Sure enough when we pulled up there were spitting barrels up and down the beach.  It was a bit closed out, back washy and very heavy.  Then again when is Zuma not like that.  Pumped I tore on my suit and the others followed.  As soon as we jumped in we got rocked by a solid set.  Gabe managed to get a draining barrel and the best one of the session.  Angers and I never really found our rhythm  while Gabe tore apart every wave that came his way.  Finally the tide filled in and the wind came up thus ending our run.

6-13-16 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Zeros, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
I was hoping to get some more good ones at Jalama with Gabe and my girl.  The wind up that way quickly changed my mind.  Gabe was down south shaping my new board anyhow so I cruised that way to have a look around.  Everything looked like shit in Ventura.  The call was to drive to Malibu and hope for something there considering the wind was still good.  County line had a wave but I wasn’t and never have been too pumped on that spot.  Leo looked fun, but the crowd to wave ratio annoying.  With the rising tide and slight onshore wind Zeros only had around six guys on it.  Though not perfect the crowd was right and some chill guy let me have his parking stub for the lot since he was leaving.  It was on.  The surf was nothing spectacular, but I find a few that stoked me out.  Once I got my fill I enjoyed the conclusion of the evening with my girl on the beach.  I would say it was a fun day to say the least.

6-12-16 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
The wind, the swell and the tide all finally lined up for a day at the “J”.  Gabe and I made a slightly later start then I would have normally made, but it was a Sunday meaning we definitely had a few too many on Saturday night.  Low tide was mid day anyway.  We got up there and sure enough Cracks was solid, light wind to glassy and really fun.  I was in the zone and surfed a near flawless session.  I would have loved to have surfed all day, but my back had worn thin on me.  I think it was the best Jalama session I have had yet this season.

6-11-16 PM Session: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Gabe had to go down the Ventura to shape my new board.  Initially I was going to cruise with him, but after looking at the  meager little waves on the cam and drained out conditions I decided against it.  Around one Gabe said Emma had some wind swell and I decided to drive down and joined him.  Emma looked a bit weak and small.  On a gamble we had a look at Ventura Harbor.  New Jetty had some backwashy, wedgey shore break coming in that was some what intriguing to me.  We paddled and the first hour was rather fun.  Then the high tide set in and the sets began to double up and close out.  It took the entire second hour of the surf to get a good one to quit on.  Another far far far from good surf courtesy of this horrid spring season.

6-10-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More small surf was the theme for the day.  Instead I decided to have a much needed culling of my closet.  After that It was an afternoon of errands and helping y girlfriend with a new car battery.

6-9-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Since Bizarro and I didn’t end up leaving last night I thought I would take advantage of the new wind swell coming in at Blacks early.  I got down to Blacks Gold where everyone parks and began heading down to the trail when I was stopped by some idiot in an orange jumper claiming the trail was closed due something inaudible about a boat.  Let’s just say this two cent day laborer wasn’t the brightest of them.  Pissed I attempted to find the Hochimien Trail, but since it has been years since I religiously surfed this area I didn’t really know exactly where it was.  I was not about to risk my life on the old Goat Trail.  Instead I detoured all the way to the fucking Glider Port Trail way out of my way and lots of extra walking and stairs.  I got down to the beach and though far far from epic it was the best surf that I had seen all trip.  Up and down the beach there were scattered wind swelly peaks for the taking with only a handful of guys out and it was semi-clean with light side shore winds.   The waves were very weak and you really had to pick the right ones.  I managed a few good lefts and rights before the tide got high and the wind destroyed it.  The session almost made all the bull shit traffic I had on the way home worth the hassle.

6-8-16 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Sunset Cliffs, San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I met up with Lindsay over at the cliffs for a grovel session at one of her favorite reefs.  It was super small and way worse then I thought from the beach.  As per usual I threw a tantrum in the water.  shortly after that the tide turned around and I managed to find a few alright waves for the day.  Still it was meager at best.  All the little lobster things that I mentioned from the day before were swimming around pinching us with their claws and getting in our hair.  It was a pain in the ass. The rest of my day was taken up with errands and obligations.

6-7-16 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
This has been the smallest I have ever seen San Diego in my entire life.  Usually you can always find a chest high wave some place to surf.  On this trip it has been nearly impossible.  I think the entire state of California is paying for the winter with yet another bull shit summer.  Cold, cloudy and flat will be the theme.  Usually I come down to San Diego for sun, fun and surf.  So far I have hardly seen any of the three especially the latter.  Whatever, Biz and I went and chilled with West for a bit then  met up with Lindsay and her dog over at Sunset Cliffs for a little sight seeing action.  It was fun.  There were all these sea caves and tons of these little lobster things running around down at the beach that I found entertaining.  The tide came up a bit fast and we all got trapped down on the beach having to climb a rather steep path to escape.  Unfortunately the dog had trouble making it up and Bizarro had to save the day and help carry him up the steepest part.  We rewarded ourselves with a bacon wrapped steak dinner back at the house.

6-6-16 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
Bizarro and I had a look at just about every surf-able spot in the area to little avail.  I almost paddled out at Windansea till six guys showed up and  crowded out a line up that barely had enough waves for the two guys already out if one could even call them waves.  Instead we did a bit of thrifting before retiring home to a nice ante pasto dinner with West.

6-5-16 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Last night Bizarro and I decided to rage down in the Gas Lamp District of downtown San Diego.  Not really knowing where to go we cruised around a bit to feel out the timbre of all the different venues, being the scene is basically triple the size of Santa Barbara.  We ended up outside of this place call Side Bar.  The sign out front had a big “SB” on it and all of the staff and majority of the clientele were well dress thus we thought it a possible good fit for us.  Cover charge was $20 strong each a little steep in my opinion and the bar was just as pricey.  Thinking about how to get the most bang for our buck we decided to trade off rounds of Rumpleminze shots.  We went seven rounds deep, which basically insured a black out.  I woke up on the floor of Bizarro’s living room soaked to the bone in my suit.  Neither of us have any idea how that happened.  As far as the club goes I found it to be a rather enjoyable spot and in you are in SD and looking to part with some class I would highly recommend Side Bar, just be ready to drop a lot of coin.  Needless to say I was rather hung over for the duration of the day of which didn’t find me comatose till after 2pm.  From there we went to the glider port in La Jolla to meet up with Chris’ mom.  Since we were above Blacks anyway we walked down for grovel session.  It was about as bad as Blacks can be.  High tide, some wind, mostly stretched waist to chest close outs and completely gutless.  There were only two guys out so I paddled. It was about as bad as I thought.  The only thing worse then trying to make something out of terrible surf is trying to do so with a terrible hang over. Good times.  San Diego: 2, Chris Lisanti:0.

6-4-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Bizarro and I were suppose to head down to San Diego last night so that I could get some fun early morning Blacks action.  The clean up took me way longer then I had expected not allowing me to get home till past 9pm.  I was exhausted and in no mood to drive four hours through the night. instead we set out mid morning hoping for an afternoon surf someplace south or on the way down.  Ventura was nothing special and thanks to traffic it took us nearly 5.5 hours to get to SD.  I was too lazy and tired to look at Blacks.  I had a look at Ocean Beach Pier, but the tide was high, crowd heavy, the weather was cold and grey and over all I just couldn’t find the motivation.  I guess I should have just manned up and went to Blacks.

6-3-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 44
Oh man I went a froth this morning.  I had to clean up for a wedding in the afternoon, but had the better part of the day free to surf.  I was hoping to go back down to River Mouth for another day of south barrels.  Unfortunately the wind had other plans for me.  Ryan confirmed everything in Ventura was not worth it so I decided to have a look at Indicator.  Though nothing special there were a few waves and a relatively light crowd for that wave.  I figured it was worth an hour before the tide got too low.  As it turned out with the dropping tide the wave only got better.  I ended up have a ball out there.  I always tend to forget how much fun Indy left can be.

6-2-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 24
Indicator left, its as much a mystery, as it is an anomaly and even sort of the worst kept summer secret spot in Santa Barbara.  I had to prep for a little wedding at noon and didn’t really have enough time to drive too far south.  The swell was still rather strong and tide high enough for Indicator to work.  With little options I had a look and sure enough it was fun with a light crowd, rare for the place.  At best its three to four peaks out there and all are very close to one another.  Get more then about ten guys out there and it can be hectic.  As I was changing another dozen or so guys had the same idea as myself.  It ended being more crowded then I would ever intend on surfing it.  Still I managed a few fun ones and actually the right wasn’t too bad and I think my best two waves actually were rights.  Go figure.  I guess I am only happy when I’m going backside.

6-1-16 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Oh man was River Mouth pumping this morning.  It wasn’t the best I have ever seen it, but it was with out a doubt the best I have surfed the spot this season.  I pulled up to glassy long south lines coming through as far as the eye could see.  It was borderline stretched, though in every set there was at least one or two that that actually could be ridden with the right amount of speed and finesse all the way through.  I had a few rides that had to be over 50 yards.  There were barreling corners too.  On one wave I managed a triple barrel.  It was definitely a good time. The current was a bit harsh causing me to do four walk arounds.  I saw a few sharks too.  One little thresher maybe about five feet long was playing in the shore break like seals do.  I never saw something like that.  The little guy was jumping through the white water and gliding across waves.  At first I was going to get out, but the waves were really fun and I figured he was having too much fun to want to eat me anyway.  Yeah I know its fuzzy logic.  Be aware there are a number of sharks at the River Mouth.