February 2014 Surf Session
2-28-14 No Surfing: 3-5+ ft
Storm conditions prevailed this morning and through out the day making it a less then worthy endeavor to paddle. Its bad enough how bad the water quality was with all the rain and for storm chop its just not worth the risk of getting terribly sick. I am sure there may have been a nook or cranny with a wave or two. Lots of times its these strange storm swells that allow for some interesting sessions at waves that are not even waves. I had work and was out for anything but the morning thus there was not time for adventure. I had more then ten years of adventure and still find my share even with my compressed schedule. At work I almost got fired after a mix up with a co-worker got out of hand. I swear to god one of these days I am just going to pack up my knives, walk out and never go back.
2-27-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
Trevor hit me up that Sharks looked good and that Hammonds was crowded. I had little time to waste and considering all the evidence I figured Sharks would at least be breaking. We ran down to the point and sure enough there was a small wave coming through. The tide was pretty high and thus all that was happening at first were some peaky bowls all the way on the reef at the top. I got in first and managed to crease the nose of my board on my first wave attempting to land an fs air reverse nose pick. Not learning my lesson I did the same exact thing on my next wave too. Lefts at Sharks you ask? When the tide is high enough and the swell broken up the very top can have a short punchy left. The only down side is that you end up pretty much on dry reef at the end of the ride. Stupid goofy foots, serves us right for trying to go left at a right point. As the tide dropped the sets started wrapping into the point allowing for some longer rides in the 4-8 turn range. What I love about Sharks it that that is a money air section right as the wave begins to steepen up and bend around the point. Literally I was 7 for 7 on my backside air reverses on that section all morning. The only downside was watching Hammonds pretty much going off and way over head in the distance. Crowd or no crowd I feel like we sort of blew it. Then again we had very kill-able Sharks all to ourselves and in this day in age with the highest surfing population ever recorded that is epic in itself. I love Sharks and had a ball anyhow. No photo today because Sharks is one of the those spots that you have to hike into and is nearly impossible to check with in cell phone camera distance.
2-26-14 AM Session2: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
I wasn’t expecting much on the walk around, but I was still thirsty for some really terrible waves in really dirty water. When I got to the other side of the Jetty it was looking really clean and really fun with only three heads on it. I paddled and was enjoying the fun peaks with a friend of mine. He asked me if I surfed the new sand bar and I said yeah, buts its no “Star Bar”. This older dude that was out there started yelling at me to shut up and stop claiming a spot that I had no right to. Fucking Star Bar, are you kidding me? Its not even a real spot. Its a fucking mirage that shows up once every ten years and is lucky if it lasts more then a couple of days. Most of the time its way too fast and closed out for the average surfer and even the advanced. In ’05 it was epic for about ten days or so and I happened to be lucky enough to be in town and caught the tail end of that run. Fuck that dude. I surf the Harbor more then most guys who live in Ventura. He can suck my big fat hairy cock. Besides that it was a super fun session.
2-26-14 AM Session1: 2-3 ft, Surfers Knoll
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
I texted Trevor early that we should head back to the same spot. Considering how yesterday was and a little more tide I expected it to be as good if not better, maybe even a glimpse of “Star Bar”? Trevor hit me up saying it looked alright and there were some guys on it, “A left hand Sand Spit” were his exact words. I bolted down to the Harbor only to see that it was tiny, waist to chest at best and way too small and fast for the spot everyone was sitting. There was an alright looking left peak a bit north sort of where we surfed yesterday. We paddled and it was a bit softer, and inconsistent then I would have hoped. Then the wind went really hard SW and I was particularly over it and decided to give New Jetty a go.
2-25-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Surfers Knoll
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves surfed: 21
Trevor hit me up and was claiming Campgrounds. When I got there it was decent for that spot, but with the dredge project and the River Mouth being opened I really wanted to see if Harbor was any good. Also the wind was offshore and there was combo in the water. It seemed like a no brainer to me. We pulled up and New Jetty was all closed out and River Mouth had pile of sand out where the line up used to be thanks to both the dredge and mouth being opened. The Knoll on the other hand had a few little sand bar peaks running. There were a lot of close outs but some really really nice corners if you were fast. Unfortunately the wind went pretty hard SW mid way through the surf destroying the almost barrel fest. I managed to snag a deep right tube and on good left tube before. Trevor managed a sick right tube in the wind. That guy can find the barrel any day no matter the conditions. I stuck a money ally-oop. All in all it was a decent session even if we may have contracted Hepatitis form the dirty water.
2-24-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 10 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
As frustrating as it can be surfing one of the most popular surf spots in California it does have its benefits. One being the sneaker days. Those days when there is not really any predicted swell, but for some reason the place is going off anyway. Usually it means no crowds till at least noon when words gets out. Today was one of those days and I reveled in it. I was driving to Emma to meet Trevor, who gave less then an enthusiastic account of conditions, when I did the look back of death and saw a solid set. I swooped around which now takes about ten minutes since they too the U-turn of death away forcing one to drive all the way to Sea Cliffs to turn around. On the drive back I saw another solid set. I started up top at Indicator which had some good lefts as well as the rights. Then I moved through River Mouth where I got a cherry one that I unloaded four huge bs hacks on before getting a quick barrel followed by an air. I kept cruising down the point as I usually like to do when its not too crowded and breaking all over the place till I got to the cove. There I snagged a solid one although racy all the way to the freeway and called it a day.
2-23-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
An unexpected night at the Wild Cat on the border of Fancytown pretty much sealed the deal on a surfless Sunday. The buoys looked average and lets face it weekends suck for surfing anyhow, no big loss there whether there is surf or not. As a matter of fact you have a better chance of having a good time if the waves are bad cause at least the crowds wont be gay. Anyhow It was the annual Wild Cat Red and Black party, which is always a good time and not to be missed. I went despite leaving a very angry girl friend at home. Consequently she waited up for me in order to bitch me out and tell me how angry she was and as of press time is still fucking being retarded about it. Guess I should have just stayed home and surfed shitty Emma Wood. Actually I heard Rincon was not bad.
2-22-14 No Surfing: 2-3 + ft
Saturday is my new Chris gets fucked in the ass day at work. As a result I had to be in a 9am. I woke up at six and checked the buoys and weather. It was small and foggy and not really worth attempting to squeeze in a bad surf at that hour of the morning. I have been scoring tons of fun surf anyway the past week or so and didn’t mind a day off. Of course this upcoming flat spell over the next few days may have me cursing said decision. Whatever the case fuck it I am sure I will find something to surf.
2-21-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
I don’t what my problem was today, but I couldn’t buy a good wave out there to save my life. Well maybe that is not entirely true. I did make a few sick tubes up at River Mouth and had a few six to eight turn rides. Overall I just seemed to pick the average ones. In my defense Rincon up top was a bit all over the place and sectiony between the low tide and combination of swells. The Cove was solid and I should have probably given it a go down there, but I let the concentration of long boarders and set consistency or lack there of keep me up top. Trevor paddled and got a few and my boy Anton must have had a leprechaun up his ass cause he was picking off all the money ones. I wore my new West wet suit this morning and since it was not yet broken in also was a bit of a hindrance to my overall performance. So far I have very mixed feelings on the suit. Stay tuned for more feed back.
2-20-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Three days in a row of Rincon, holy fucking shit! I can’t remember the last time that has happened. There has been lots of wind swell in the water, which always means lots of waves and light crowds. For whatever reason Surfline.com is terrible at predicting wind swell in this area. Hey it works for us locals in the know. I sat in the Cove cause it was the most organized. Up top looked way too wobbly again. I had a few good ones off the bat including a chill little barrel on one. I was super lethargic out there and blew a couple of waves I should have killed it on. Still I was a super fun session. The water was freezing again. This morning was the last morning that I will be cold for a bit since I got my new wet suit this evening. Its my first suit from West so we will see how it works out.
2-19-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
My afternoon got steadily bogged down with ding repair. I was hoping to get done with enough time to go back to Rincon for a double header. By the time I finished and cleaned up it was just after 4pm. These days rush hour traffic has gotten so bad that if your not out of town by 3:30, 4 the latest you can forget about it. Rather then sit in traffic for an hour to get to a spot that normally takes just over fifteen minutes I decided to look about town. Mesa Lane was my first stop and although a little crowded it looked kill-able and there seemed to be plenty of peaks all over the different little reefs there. Dorky’s, the eastern most peak at the Lane looked like it had a really boost-able left with no one on it. I paddled, but not before some chick tried to call me out for wanting to surf the same peak as her and her boy friend. I laughed and said “I think there are plenty of waves for all of us”. I got out there and frothed. It was average Lane or terrible anyplace else, but I had a good time. I stuck a really sick fs ally-oop and a solid fs air. Then the wind got super hard out of nowhere thus ending it for me.
2-19-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
More Rincon action courtesy of a mix of short period wind swells. Whatever ground swell there was has left the ocean and all we are left with is heaps of wind swell. As a result Rincon was a bit mixed up to say the least. The Cove seemed to be focusing a few lines that on occasion doubled up and got fun. I paddled there and found a half dozen ok ones right off the bat. Then as the tide filled in Cove started to slow down forcing me to paddle up to River Mouth. Although much more consistent it was way too bowly and mixed up there to be any real fun. I took a few and worked my way back into the Cove. I got a few more before lucking into a nice head high grower that opened up and took me all the way to the Call Box (which actually isn’t there after being removed by the freeway expansion program). It was the first wave I have Call Boxed all season I think. I picked it off some chick and got two solid reos of the bat. Then floated a huge section, aired over another, then it opened up and filed down the line all the way to the Freeway where I managed to fit in another twelve turns or so. I had to quite on that one. Besides my legs were burning like hell. I noticed when I walked past the pit crew hut that they brought a piano down there. A PIANO! Those wild and crazy guys!
2-18-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
I wanted to possibly write an actual blog entry today before a second surf, then my roommate JP needed me to proof his essay for his college writing class. Then Bizarro stopped over for a visit while my girl was out running errands. Before I knew it was 3:30 and I just had enough time to beat it out of town before rush hour. Rincon looked drained and not very good for the crowd on it. I decided to cruise to Pitas, but decided to check Little Rincon instead. It looked average. My bud Sean was getting out of the water and said it was fun. On top of that there were only two guys out. One would have to be crazy to pass that up. Bobby Martinez was sitting on the other side of the pier attempting to make this nut job triple up tube section I wanted nothing to do with. I think most body boarders would have wanted nothing to do with it. I got out there and it was way heavier and bigger then I had initially thought, a little bit faster too. My boy Robbie was out getting a few and he is always fun to surf with. I had a few good ones. Overall it was a bit too fast and sectiony for my liking and judging from what was coming in there I bet the Faria section of Pitas was probably sick. Still a pretty fun session for what it was.
2-18-14 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
I had Rincon on the brain this morning. After missing it yesterday I was there first thing this morning. Alright you got me first thing Lisanti time so that means like 10am, but fuck man it is my day off after all. I got there and the bottom lot was full. The top lot was empty and I noticed the majority of the lot was leaving. I had timed the shift change perfectly. I texted Trevor that it was worth while and he met me. We paddled up at River Mouth considering the high tide. It was very bowly up top. I think there were too many short period swells mixed in with the ground swell thus jumbling up the lines. The good thing was it made for lots of available waves, the bad news was most only went for around 5-8 turns. There was the odd ball barrel too. At first the crowd was very manageable and I got plenty of good waves. As the tide dropped the crowd increased till it became a rather tough endeavor to catch waves. The wind also picked up a bit making conditions a bit less then desirable as well. Between these factors and the advanced stages of hypothermia I was experiencing thanks to my wet suit becoming Swiss chess with age I knew it was time for me to leave. I did manage to get one sick tube, a few good lefts and stuck a clean money bs air reverse and a huge bs full rotation. When I was coming out of the water I ran into the elusive Kevin Angers , an old surfing and work buddy of mine I had not seen in over a year. Dude grew a mustache. He sort of looks like a creeper now. I almost forgot to mention that some guy almost killed me when he decided to burn me then bail his leash less long board over the falls as I was coming under him. The thing missed my head by inches. I don’t whats more dangerous, the ridiculous kooked out crowds of Southern California or the shark infested north? It may be time for a move.
2-17-14 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
I thought maybe with the intense fog that I woke up to this morning it would keep the holiday crowds at bay a little. That was a fucking lie. Rincon had no spots in the lot and I could not even see the waves from the 101. Every wave between there and C-Street was a fucking zoo. I settled on Emma for lack of a better spot considering I could not check anything thanks to said fog. Upon paddling there had to be at least 50 heads in the water for sub par mostly closed out Emma. I ended up sitting deep on the south reef where there was a short right and even shorter left and many close outs. I can’t really say I had anything really worth talking about. I suppose it was better then not surfing.
2-16-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
I wanted to surf this morning despite the fact that the tide was going super high, swell was average and wind not so great. I was banking on Emma, but that was flooded, crowded and shitty. I ran to New Jetty, which had a handful of guys on it and was a bit fat, back washy and side shore wind on it. There was a few guys at the newly opened Santa Clara River Mouth hoping for a sand bar that was not there. Looks like we are not going to get a Star Bar out of this opening, but who knows. I did a desperation paddle at the Jetty. It was about as bad as it looked. I found a few my best being one I accidentally burned Trevor on. As I was leaving I saw him run over some other guy. I guess he paid my aloha spirit forward. At work I decided to scratch the written menu opting to use up all of the left overs in the walk in, which turned out to be a hit. I actually ran out of food!
2-15-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I got back from Big Sur rather late and was tired when I woke up. The buoys looked small and so did the cams. Considering I have to work at 9am now cause my boss is a cunt on Saturdays the needs to be pretty special to get me out of bed early enough to get s a session in before work. I got to work and they totally didn’t need me to be there that early. A waste of my fucking time just so that they can spite me to prove a point. I hate fucking working. When is someone going to show up at my door and hand me a brief case full of unmarked bills for no particular reason. Fuck at this point I would be happy with a big sack of hush money.
2-14-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Mill Creek, Big Sur
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
The previous day I noticed as I was driving back north from Sand Dollar that there was a small cove the looked like it contained a wave. Upon further investigation I found that there was a sick little left bowl coming off this rock before breaking into a sand bottom cove. It was for the most part just a one trick pony with a sick end section great for airs and big hits. There was also the potential for a barrel on the right one as well. I frothed the fuck out of this wave all alone for the last hour of light. I must say it was the most fun thing I surfed the entire trip. I was out in this pretty little cove all alone enjoying a pristine sunset. If it was not for the knowledge that I was shark bait dead smack in feeding hour it could have been all time instead it was just surreal. Look for more in the Big sur blog soon.
2-14-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Carmel Beach, Carmel
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
My girl wanted to see Carmel and being it was only about a half hour north of where we were staying I was down. I knew of a few possible waves that could be fun in the vicinity. We got into the town and I used my surfer sense and managed to find the beach. When we pulled up there were actually waves there! It was about chest to head and pretty clean. There was a light side shore wind, but it looked fun enough. As I was walking down some kook ass local decided to heckle me a bit. Whatever I still paddled. I found a peak to myself. It was a bit on the racy, closed out side. I managed a corner or two. Of course as me luck always has it with in about 15 minutes of paddling the wind came up and tore things up a bit, although the faces stayed somewhat clean. I did a Lisanti 20 and called it a day. Look for more details in my Big Sur blog to come soon.
2-13-14 PM Session: 6-8+ ft, Sand Dollar Beach, Big Sur
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Even I enjoy a small reprieve from the monotony of The Barb from time to time. my girl and I rented a quaint little cabin in the woods at Big Sur for a two day get away. For that reason I have not updated the surf log. Anyhow I am going to post a Big Sur blog in a few days so expect to get more detail about the surfing and trip there. All I will say is what looked like a clean fun day of beach break quickly became windy gnarly victory at sea followed by extreme heavy foggy all with in a matter of two hours. Big Sur gives new meaning to the term devote surfer. I pretty much got my ass handed to me and came in with my tail between my legs after a few waves.
2-12-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
I thought I was suppose to be on the road to Big Sur bright and early. Then thanks to an impromptu dinner at Toma with one of my lady’s big wig clients, a large delicious meal and two bottles of wine later, lets just say we had a slow start this morning. Rather then sitting around waiting for my girl to get ready and getting annoyed I decided it best if I just cruised down south for a few waves. I met Trevor at Emma which was ok, but a bit on the slow, small and crowded side of things. Over it we piled into my car and ran to New Jetty. It was chocolate milk water courtesy of the inlet being dredged in the Harbor. There was a nice little sand bar in the middle of the beach with a fun looking right and a light crowd. Trevor wasn’t pumped, but I was over searching and made us surf. At first I was just no vibing with the crowd or conditions. This fucking dude kept paddling around me and everyone else. Finally I started just burning him. Of course this led to an altercation where his defense was “c’mon man its like three foot out here”. Fuck you I don’t give a fuck what size it is out there that does not mean anyone has the right to be a rude asshole. Finally we took it to the beach and settled the score. When I paddled back out all refreshed from helping him realize my point I began getting some really fun ones. Not epic but totally worth the surf.
2-11-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
I have not surfed Little Rincon in like a year and it sucked. Trevor and I passed on Emma cause the crowd was a bit heavier then yesterday and the tide was about to give out. In reality that was the best bet though. We both agreed that we had seen some fun ones at Rincon and since he is the new afternoon update guy Rincon for Surfline.com it made sense to go back. Rincon was weak. I ran into my old couch guy Ryan. We seem to only meet at Rincon when the waves suck absolute hell. I ran back to Little ‘Con since it focuses wind swell better then Rincon being a smaller point and the tide window was perfect. Trevor was suppose to meet me there, but lagged. I saw him check it from the bluff, yet he did not paddle. All I can say is it was a fun mother fucking session. I had some little tubes and tons of long racy yet kill-able rides. Be aware the sand at Little Rincon is very well set up at the moment. I hope to score more sessions there if the sand bar lasts.
2-10-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 16
I decided it was bout time I drag myself out of bed and go for a surf. Enough self pity over feeling a little under the weather. I can really be a little bitch sometimes. I met Trevor at Emma and although looking like we had missed the tide change window by about an hour the crowd was light and there were still some waist to chest bowls coming through on the Toll Booth peak. We jumped in and I found a few ok ones. Nothing really special, but was more then stoked I surfed. Later at work I got into a fight with my chef cause he decided that now that I am making “good money” as he put it I need to be more co-operative about my schedule. I reminded him I only took the job because of the schedule I was offered. I have been working there for five fucking years on the night shift and weekends. I like it that way. He knows this. Just because I am finally making what I should have in the first place doesn’t make me anyone’s bitch. Maybe I should take that UCSB job after all. I had a freak out to say the least. Then my GM did his usual bs to pacify me and get his way anyway. I fucking hate the system. I swear to fucking god that I am going to drop out of society some day and start sending mail bombs to all the bull shit people that have pissed me off over the past 33 years!!!!! Fuck! Then Trevor came over so we could talk about a potential catering company business venture. While that went on some stupid drunk bitch plowed into a parked car just two spaces away from mine and caused a calamity on the block. Nothing like life on Oceano Ave.
2-9-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Same thing different day. More small surf and feeling under the weather kept me down again. I would have slept till 11 then I got a call from my sous chef asking if I could come in early since he was short handed. Who am I to shake a stick at over time? Money in the bank! I picked up my pay check today and realized that raise for losing all of our benefits hit. All I am going to say is I am the closest I have ever come to a real living wage in the last ten years and it feel pretty damn good. As Fifty Cent would say “I feel like Money…..”
2-8-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
The buoys looked pathetic, the weather looked crappy and I was feeling like shit. Pick one of those three and it makes surfing less then stellar, as a combination staying in bed got the best of me. From the looks of the cam I don’t really feel as though I missed anything all that amazing.
2-7-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 29
A small front moved through last night and the buoy showed some local wind swell and minor NW ground swell. It was offshore in Ventura so I figured at the very least there should be a corner or two at the Harbor. As I was passing Rincon I did the look back of death and noticed some clean lines coming through up and down the point with a very light crowd. There was enough to justify the loop around. Upon looking at things it looked do-able enough for the time I had allotted. I ran into Tony G in the finally days of his Santa Barbara vacation and claimed it was better when he paddled out at 6:30 am. I would have to bet that it was way better under the warmth of my covers at that time instead of marginal at best Rincon. As the rules of surfing have it as soon as I put on my suit and walked up the point towards Indicator the wind turned South East. Fucking devil winds! I was already dressed and out of time thus forced to make the most of the textured remnants of what could have been a fun little session. Instead I fought my way through side chop riddled faces and racy sections up top till eventually settling in the Cove where although smaller the waves were a bit cleaner. I managed to pick off a few eight or nine turn rides despite the garbage on offer. A bad day at the ‘Con is still better then an average day at most spots.
2-6-14 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
Small surf, and still feeling a tad bit under the weather left me in bed this morning. The C Street cam looked small and clean. I am sure the Harbor had something to ride. For me it was far from worth the gas and effort. Instead I caught up on some much needed sleep. Work was busy as fuck thanks to lots of catering work to be done for both the day and tomorrow. Tomorrow should also be hectic as fuck. It rained so I don’t know how eager I am to go out and surf mediocre waves and risk contracting hepatitis.
2-5-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 41
With similar conditions and a tad less swell then yesterday I was thinking it might be another good day for the Strand, just a little more rip-able and less survival mode. The day before I was way under gunned and to be honest I hate surfing waves of consequence unless its over some perfect reef pass or point. These days I am never to stoked to risk life and limb for pick and choose beach break corners. I got to strand and it was crowded, tiny and hardly worth the effort. Every little grom and trainer were all over it. I went back to New Jetty which I knew would not be any worse and with all the kiddies at Strand should be uncrowded. I was right. There were only a handful of guys spread among multiple peaks with light offshore wind. The Jetty peak was putting up a very agreeable A-Frame. I got out there and it was oodles of fun. The lefts were work-able and the rights going back into the Jetty were doing that against the grain double thing that winter time New Jetty is famous for. It was small but very playful. I ended up frothing. Then this crew of tweakers paddled out. Its always a little dicey when such paddles cause one can never know how they will behave in the line up. Overall they were mellow besides one guy trying to give me shit about too many Santa Barbara guys showing up at Hollywood. I was in awe in the fact that I am now responsible for all the actions of any surfer from SB that decides to surf south of Emma Wood. Got to love a tweaker. Last night my girl took me out to the Palace, one of my favorite restaurants in town and a great creole spot in its own right. She also got me a bad ass pink shirt to match this tie that I have been trying to match for sometime. I know pink and the phrase bad ass are absurd to string together, but when you see me in it with the tie and my grey suite you will understand. Then she surprised me with cannolis from Olio cause the reviews said they were authentic. Of course they would not even hold up to supermarket cannoli back home. I did appreciate the effort. Guess I still have to open up my restuarant to bring New York/New Jersey Italia cuisine to the Barb.
2-4-14 AM Session: 6-8+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 12
Holy fuck was I under gunned on my 5’10. I had no idea the waves were going to be that big this morning. Honestly I figured it was going to be fun at Rincon was to spend my day there with a very nice tide window. It was also a great swell/tide window for Jalama but the wind was fucked. Rincon was small and very windswelly over it I met Mike at Emma which looked fun although I still thought we could do better. The was variable in Oxnard and we decided to give Strand a look stopping at New Jetty first. There were no indicators buoys or anything that strand was going to be so large. We checked it on the South End and it was going off. People were getting stand up tubes everywhere. There was a solid crowd, but plenty of waves to go around. We jumped in and right away I knew I was in for way more board then I had under my feet. I pulled back on my first three cause the bottom was about to drop out and I had failed to get under the lip. Then I began to find a few bombs. I got one of the biggest barrels I have had in a very long time. Then the wind came up and so did the tide making things a bit more dumpy and hard to surf. There still a few good ones. The water was fucking freezing and by that point I was a Popsicle. I can’t remember the last time I surfed real waves of consequence. Here is a shot of me that Mike took about to get shacked off my ass, except I was recovering from a hefty air drop and just got axed by the lip instead.
2-3-14 No Surfing: 3-4 ft
I was feeling rather exhausted still from the entire birthday festivities. My girl and I had some serious issues to talk through as well. All that considered I decided to not surf and from the looks of things I did not miss anything wonderful to speak of. Looks like waves for my actual birthday tomorrow.
2-2-14 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
Last night was Bizarro and I myself’s birthday extravaganza at the Wild Cat. I must say we got a rather good showing and made for a most entertaining evening in Fancytown. I was definitely wavering on the border the entire night and I am pretty Bizarro easily found himself on the other side of that line. It was a rather fun night till right around last call when things took a tragic turn and I found myself picking yet another friend from the county jail this evening. Damn all these amateurs not able to hold their liquor. That makes four friends total over the years that ended up in lock up after a night on the town with me. better them then me right? Friends beware, party with me at your own risk.
2-1-14 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
After missing two days of surf I decided despite the meager buoy readings, bad wind and super high tide I was going to find some waves. I ended up at Emma which was very small, and very high. I was there and drove so why not paddle. It had to be one of the worst Emma days I have ever surfed. I did manage one or two ok lefts. Later that night would be my Birthday bash at the Wild Cat.
How many places did we have to go to before we found shells? 3 grocery stores?
Point taken
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