November 2017 Surf Sessions
11-30-17 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Cobbles/Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 56
After such a disheartening morning session I really needed another surf. I was hopping that the swell would go less steep as the day progressed and maybe I could get something in town. That never happened. After a brief haircut where I cut all my long hair off for the second time in my life I grabbed Bizarro and we headed south. I completely by passed Rincon over that and headed to Little ‘Con, which was in retrospect the best option. At the time it was alright, a bit too drained with about ten guys on a peak that realistically could support seven and there were another five guys suiting up. Pitas was absolutely terrible and finally there I was at Cobbles lying to myself that it was actually peeling. I bought into my own delusion and paddled. Its not like I haven’t made this mistake before. It sucked, there were a few corners and had the wind held off I could have made something out of it. With all the chop I just was not able to really bite into the money section I was looking to shoot. after a few we walked over to Emma, which was completely drained out. The tide was coming back in and I knew there would be a few boost-able corners and truth be told all I wanted to do was put up few to alive my tension. Luckily I did manage a few left ramps. Fuck this swell.
11-30-17 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 30
So far the biggest NW swell of the season made it’s appearance this morning. As the bulk of California scored here in the 805 the swell came in about fifteen degrees too steep to really light anything up. Instead average at best was the call with severe over crowding thanks to an over hyped swell. After a hail Mary Hammonds check I found myself at Rincon looking a very average waves and though crowded I felt that there was enough that I could get my fill and have fun. I suppose about 100 other people thought the same cause with in a half hour of paddling the place was packed. No matter how hard I tried to get positioning there was always someone deeper, back paddling or burning me. It became quite frustrating. Then I was sitting at lower River Mouth when a bomb came right to me. I snagged it and powered through easily 50 yards of near close out runner. At this point I found myself at the top of the Cove faced with a line to the freeway. Stoked I began to set up my bottom turn. Upon climbing back up a fucking long boarder decided to burn me. I held fast under his tracks and was making some serious traction. Unfortunately when he pulled out he caused too much water to come down on top of me and lost the line thus getting left behind. Bummed I paddled back out and somehow lucked into another Cove set wave. I got three solid turns and was setting up my fourth into the lip. There was this kooky ass chick on the inside who as I was coming back down gave me the deer in head lights look. She then proceeded to bail her board, it going toward the beach and her toward the shoulder. I attempted to go right in the middle and would have had success till my fins caught her leash and the two of us went over the falls together. After that I was so frustrated I caught a few more and then went home. I was so angry I just wasn’t having fun. The queen can give you the best day of your life one day and then ruin it the next. Good times.
11-29-17 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 78
A steep NW was still lingering from yesterday with offshore conditions cleaning up all the left over channel chop that plagued the beaches yesterday. Word was the Ship was fun and I headed straight there. Upon checking it the surf was a bit smaller then I would have hoped and a bit on the crowded side. I guess after surfing Naples all by myself yesterday everything seems crowded. I paddled and snagged a few fun ones. It wasn’t solid Strand making it way more bowly and broken up. Real sets were about fifteen minutes apart and every half hour some of the front runners from this new long period NW would show in a five to ten wave set that most times just cleaned everyone up. As the tide dropped the line up got more disorganized and crowded. I moved to the outside and just focused on the sets. The past few sessions my shoulder has been bothering me and by the two hour mark I was spent, especially after all of the paddling I had to do yesterday. Though not the best Strand it was still plenty of fun out there.
11-28-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15mins
Waves Surfed: 35
Miles Driven: 34
The swell was coming in rather west and from what I heard the beaches were still riddled with channel chop from yesterday’s winds. I was torn between the south points or the north points. After last swell it wasn’t much bigger down south then up north. I actually had some errands to run in town and figured this would kill two birds with one stone. Leadbetter was where I like it to be size wise for a Naples run. I got there and there were some lines and swell was solid chest to head high on sets. When I first paddled I snagged a handful of sick ones up at the Crack Peak. Then Low tide slowly began to take its toll as things became more inconsistent and a bit funky. I think there were too many short period west swells breaking up the ground swell, though plenty of waves most were hitting the reef all over the place. There were a few runners, but the bulk were just one it runners or just shutting or dying down. At the end of the day I surfed glassy fun waves with only one other guy out in one of my favorite locales. With that in mind I suppose I should consider myself rather fortunate. Oh and I got all my errands done too!!!
11-27-17 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 30
The wind was howling out of the NW courtesy of a cold front. I had to go down to Ventura to square away a batch of boards and brought my stuff thinking I would get ‘Con on the way back. It was tiny and all wind swelly. Every now and then there would be an actual set. At 300 plus one would expect Rincon to see to much. I took my fish. I was feeling very lethargic out there and found fighting the current to be a bit of a struggle. Since it wasn’t very good and I wasn’t feeling my best I did just one drift through and called it a day. It should be a bit better tomorrow and I would rather save my stamina for that.
11-26-17 No Surfing: 2-3 + ft
There was still some west and some south. Gabe had to get back up north for work and My girl really wanted me to stay home and kick it with her around SB. Since I was pretty much over surfing this holiday swell before it even got here I had no gripes in complying. We had a nice stroll around Chase Palm Park. Apparently the town is going to get rid of the Merry-Go-Round cause the lease is too high. I think it is a real bummer. It was always nice to have that around. What is a beach town with out a Carousel? From there we went out on the pier, got some fish and chips, hot chocolate and watched the sunset.
11-25-17 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
The west swell was still hanging around in the water. I had a burn thing that ran from 8am till 11 am and then a dinner that ran from 11:30-8pm keeping me booked solid for the day. From what I heard it was average at best again. To turn down making money for shit waves seems crazy. It was Brennan and Gabe’s last night in town, plus Bizarro was back from San Diego. This combination of people means when thing: Boys night out at the Wild Cat. We hit it pretty hard then after partied till the sun came up.
11-24-17 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 78
I don’t think I have to explain the hang overs everyone was feeling from my camp Black Friday morning. We decided to go down to the pier and kick with Brennan, while attempting to sober up. Also I was hoping the holiday crowds would be over it by the afternoon. The swell was very west, but very small. I was torn between heading north or south. It was oil glass up and down the coast. Not trusting my instincts I pulled the trigger on going south. There were clean fun waves everywhere. There were people everywhere. All the line ups between Santa Barbara and Ventura were packed with guys. On a hunch that Strand may have a wave and be over looked Gabe and I headed that way. Pat called us and said Strand looked small and that we should check the Harbor. Though solid it was also about as walled out as a spot can get. There were one or two corners at New Jetty, although I am sure it was more my eyes surfing faster then I could. From there we went directly to the Ship. Small, but fun was the call and we paddled. Actually Gabe and I had a ball. Not to mention what a beautiful sunset it was.
11-23-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
Holy fuck were the line ups packed for this Turkey Day. It wasn’t even a real swell. Then again considering how bad it had been I guess it made sense. Every line up down to New Jetty was absolutely packed and average a best. There were a few corners at River Mouth though a bit fat and back washy. Gabe and I decided to have a look at Emma. That turned out to be obnoxiously crowded and absolutely shitty. Emma really needs to get some good sand back. I was borderline ready to bag it and try in the afternoon, when Gabe and I decided to just got back to River Mouth and do a no check suit and boot. In the lot we ran into Pat and McGil whom also had the same idea as us. Luckily the wind actually backed down and there were some high tide corners. Stoked for a holiday freinds surf session we all paddled. Though far from amazing there were a few. Then after about 30 minutes the wind came up like a light switch and completely trashed the line up. I snagged a few more just to get my twenty in and called it a day. I guess I should have just paddled there in the first place. I went home and somehow managed to over cook my Turkey. Maybe it is because I had already cooked nine Thanksgiving dinners for various events and parties over the last few days and I was just spent. I was able to salvage it. My sides and cheese cakes came out good. Considering all the wine and champagne we drank I hardly think anyone cared all that much that turkey was a tad bit dry. Then everyone went down the Wild Cat to dance our off all the food.
11-22-17 No Surfing: 1-3+ ft
I had actually planned on surfing after work today. My girl was getting off early and a small but palatable swell was suppose to show by the afternoon. That swell never materialized leaving me wanting. My lady and I enjoyed a nice beach walk followed by putting our Turkey in a brine. For dinner I decided to make pork braciole in a fresh Heirloom tomato sauce since I had fair amount at the kitchen in danger of going bad.
11-21-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Another small day out there, which was fine since I had a lunch pack out to work at 8 am. I could have fished it at C Street after work, but I was not about to waste the time and gas for ankle slappers on my fish. Instead I used the afternoon to begin all the base preparations for my Thanksgiving. I made the cranberry relish, par cooked my potatoes, and made two cheese cakes.
11-20-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More flatness and another day in the kitchen had me not surfing. After work I got to shop for my personal Thanksgiving.
11-19-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It was super tiny and weak out there. We all got super tanked out a the Wild Cat last night, where I managed to lose my ID, card and money and put a hole in the bathroom door. Needless to say it was a lazy day spent kicking it around the apartment.
11-18-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 64
With minor combo swell in the water and a report of off shore winds all morning I headed straight to the Harbor with low expectations. There was a crazy six foot high tide swamping everything. It was also allowing the usually closed our river bars to have real corners. There were a handful of guys out and I saw a few fun ones in the chest high plus range. It was definately a bit fat and backwashy, but there were a few nuggets out there. I must have made it look too fun cause a half hour in twenty guys showed up and paddled. Then the wind came up super hard NW absolutely trashing it. It was far from an epic surf, though I still got mine. Considering I had to work another double shift Saturday I was stoked to have gotten a few.
11-17-17 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 30
I had to work early. There was still a bit of combo swell in the water and I figured I could find something after work. The extreme negative tide made finding a decent wave difficult. All reports I got were small and weak. I wanted to surf and took my fish to Rincon where though deplorable there were a few runners with virtually no one out. I walked around a bit, picked up some sea glass waiting to see if the turn around of the tide would be any better. If you watch any line up long enough and are optimistic you can always fool yourself into paddling. As I was walking out up top I found a sling spear in the rocks. It was in rather good shape as well. Not wanting to leave it there for any one to accidentally step on and get hurt I put it up by the wall of the top house. I surfed my session and actually it was way more fun then it looked. Of course my fish has a way of doing that with absolutely terrible surf. When I got out I walked back up to where I left the spear. I hoped that someone would have walked off with it, but it was still there. Feeling responsible I took it with me not wanting to leave a possible weapon laying around that could cause a problem. If you or someone you know lost a diving spear in the past week or so, hit me up with a description and I will gladly get it back to you.
11-16-17 AM Session: 2-3+ Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 76
It appeared that there was more south in the water then I had seen the previous few days. New Jetty was a bit crowded and gutless for my tastes. River Mouth had potential, but I still thought I could find better shape at the Shores. Had the tide been lower I think it could have been fun. Not trusting the wind I wanted to surf something thus went back to River Mouth. There were definitely corners how long it would hold up for was beyond me. I was going to go fish C-Street when a friend of mine was suiting up to paddled and stoked me out to join. As it turned out for a solid hour there were kill-able left and right corners. Then as the tide dropped it steadily became more walled till it was borderline not surf-able. Even as drained as it was every now and then a south pulse would give a few shoulders to work with. Later I would hear from Ryan that Rincon had some solid head high waves before dark. I have no idea where that came from since the buoys didn’t show anything. Go figure, the mystery of Rincon. I couldn’t have surfed it anyway being that I tweaked my back out attempting some hefty rotations during my surf earlier.
11-15-17 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 30
I had to work super early. There was some steep NW and some WNW wind swell with at tad bit of left over SW in the water as well. All reports I got from the south beaches were that they were average at best. I still probably would have made a play for the south Ventura beaches had I not gotten a text from Ryan that the 101 was closed through Ventura due to some idiot attempting commit suicide off the California street over pass. With that in mind the some what fun looking waist to chest high waves at Rincon won the day. I grabbed my fish being that sets were few and far between and rather weak and mushy at that. I started up top and actually nabbed a few alright connections through the River Mouth. As the sun began to go down I moved into the Cove since I actually saw some really sick ones in there, but was a bit too crowded with long boarders to allow me to fit into the mix. Of course when I got in there the tide had gotten too high making it as gutless as waves get. Still I found a few through to the freeway. Still waiting to get a few solid days at the ‘Con under my belt this season.
11-14-17 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
I was really expecting the wind swell to had been better then it was this morning or at least the south still pulsing a bit more solid. Everything on the way down was rather small provoking me to check the Harbor. It was super small weak ass wind swell at New Jetty. It was so bad there that no one was out and I can’t remember the last time I have seen that there. There were some mixed peaks up and down the beach at River Mouth that if I had a little more time I may have gave a shot. With only about an hour left in my window I headed to Emma. It was small, but super consistent and clean. Four guys were sitting on the south peak to little avail. I saw some rights and lefts on the north peak and out of time I paddled. I was for the most part super small, though kill-able. It was like an alright day for Florida thus I channeled my East Coast roots and made the most of it.
11-13-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 76
The period on the south had dropped significantly and there was just about zero NW swell left less some very minor wind swell. I though the River Mouth could have been fun if not, definitely New Jetty or the point. As it turned out that minor wind swell had the channel all churned up and even though there was no wind the south was coming in super lumpy, bumpy and crossed up. On a last ditch effort I had a look at Shores and though far from great it was the best I had seen. I called Ryan and we surfed the south end of the beach trading off some extremely strange crossed up bowls. There were some alright ones, but I just never really got in the groove out there. I suppose it was the best of the worst, though I am pretty sure I should have missioned it to Malibu. At least I got wet.
11-12-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
There wasn’t much left out there this morning but south swell. The winds were light and conditions right for River Mouth. When I was checking it I saw a handful of sick barreling lefts in matter of ten minutes up and down the beach. Stoked I tore on my wet suit and headed out. On the walk to the sand bar I was going to surf my girl and I noticed a number of dead Western Grebes on the beach being munched on by vultures. There was one that was still alive on the waters edge that didn’t look so well and most likely deemed to join the fate of its fellow brethren. I see stuff like this on the beach on the regular and always just write it of on that is the way of nature. While I was surfing my girlfriend called an animal rescue organization and they came and picked it up. She saved the day. As far as the surf goes nothing could save the day. What must have been a short hour or two window of fun ones steadily came to an end as soon as I paddled out. My first few were alright, then the tide got all drained, a bunch of gnarly rips and currents made keeping positions impossible and then finally the wind came up and killed it. Its funny how a day like yesterday when I just paddled because I had to turned out super fun and a day where I thought I was going to score completely bombed. I guess I will have to look to next swell.
11-11-17 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 56
I was really looking for point surf and hopefully something close to home since I had work at 10:30 am. The buoys, cams and reports all showed a significant drop in the NW swell, while the south was holding strong. I thought about Rincon, but the lot was packed causing me to not even stop. Hobsons and Kooks Peak had a wave with light off shores that lead me to have a look at Pitas. There was one guy out and it was way smaller then I would like and too high. Hoping that Emma would produce I headed there. It was rather crowded, all broken and crossed up with a lack of any real quality. The tide was also already a bit too low for it. At this point I was just about over it. I had a feeling the Shores was good, but I didn’t have time for it. I would later hear from Ryan that it was fun. I parked in the middle of the Gold Coast, threw a short tantrum and in that span of ten minutes I saw a few guys get a few corners. I still had about an hour window left. Since I drove I paddled. Shit on my first wave I paddled into what looked like a smaller one till hit the sand bar, doubled up and sent me into a screaming tube that spit me out down the beach. At this point my stoke level turned up a notch and I began hunting more of those. Most just closed out, but I lucked into atleast six tubes that were memorable for sure. Sometimes you can find gold in the strangest of places. The rest of my day was spent working events. I had a funeral service in Carp to drop food off to in the morning. Then in the evening I had a benefit for the Boys and Girls Club of Santa Barbara to cook for at the Moxi. It was another 12 hour plus Saturday. Oh and after I suited up and hit the Wild Cat.
11-10-17 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 34
I may have gotten ahead of myself this morning when I looked at the buoys. In all fairness considering it was a holiday and the first swell in over a week I knew the crowds were going to be intense. My efforts were not just to find the best waves possible, but to find the best least crowded waves. Lead Better had some chest to head high waves when I woke up leading me to believe I would find something at Naples. When I arrived at the beach it was way smaller, weaker and inconsistent then I had hoped with a grip of guys on it for how lack luster it was. The tide had just bottomed out at 9:30 adding to the lully sets. At this point it was ten and I was beside myself. On one hand I knew if I high tailed it south I would find something. On the other the possibility of just driving around to no avail seemed worse. Besides it was a beautiful morning on a prestine beach in the middle of now where with my girl. I hung with her for about a half hour waiting on the tide push. There were four guys out at the Crack peak and in that time one by one they dropped off. Now having the peak to myself there was no excuse not to paddle. What started out as a slow session, steadily became a rip fest. It was as long and connected as usual. I think the south swell and the short period of the NW had a lot to do with that, but it was focusing all the energy on the inside reef allowing for a sick little rampy section that I messed around. Fuck I even for a couple of tubes. It wasn’t the payoff I was hoping for, yet it was still a damn fine time.
11-9-17 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 64
For a moment I almost blew it this morning. I woke up around 7 am and began looking at the buoys and cams. My stupid phone wasn’t updating the buoys since 3 am not allowing me to get an accurate reading and the small numbers it was saying made no sense compared to the C Street cam. I procratinated my morning chores a bit then her the road. It was flat all the way down to Ventura Point, where it was just about chest high on set and crowded. I cruised to The Harbor hoping for the best. The surf was solid chest to head plus with plenty of combo cross up. There were the usual Jetty to Jetty NW close outs to be expected of this time of year, but there were tons of corners up and down the beach. The River bars seemed way too stretched. New Jetty although a healthy crowd had more then enough waves to go around. I started off the Jetty. It was mostly just that right going back towards it, which I can take or leave. The lefts were a bit racy and closed out for my taste. I noticed way down the beach almost towards the Wedge there was a left that seemed to be peeling. I edged my way down there and sure enough there were some kill-able ones. I ended up having a ball on a day that I almost didn’t even bother. Rest of my day was spent in the kitchen and then at an event.
11-8-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I had work at around 10 am and the surf looked smaller then it had when I surfed yesterday. I bagged it knowing that a new swell was just around the corner.
11-7-17 AM Session: 1-2 ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 58
There still wasn’t much out there again this morning, but there was more then there had been all week and it was clean. I wanted to get my car washed anyway and I have a great place I go down there anyhow. I took my fish and surfed super small, super high tide Pipe. Despite being deplorable thanks to my fish I had a ball. The rest of my day after getting my car washed was spent prepping at work.
11-6-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It figures the first day off I have had in a bit and it was super small and terrible. I was down to grab my fish and go grovel C-street, but the tide was crazy fat and the wind was on it. I don’t mind small clean waves. I can’t stand small windy waves.
11-5-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I was supposed to be off today. One of the other cooks who was going to work the morning prep managed to drunkenly fall off his skate board and fracture his elbow. Thus I had a late night text on my phone asking me to be in at 8 am. The surf was still shit anyway and the work load was light enough that I knew I could be done in a fairly short amount of time. I got finished at around 10:30, then went to brunch with my lady. I wanted to do more activities, but was so tired that by early afternoon all I could think of doing was chilling on the couch a bit.
11-4-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I knew today was going to suck all week and I am not just speaking on terms of surf. I had two events, a wedding and a 200 person gala that I had to personally present at, on top of that I had prep to handle for those and two other events in the kitchen. My day started at 8 am and thanks to a surprise fire alarm scare I found myself folding up chairs and tables at 10 pm, not to step foot in the doorway of my apartment till nearly midnight. Anyone out there who thinks my life is all fun games let this be your proof. When I work I work and when I play I play and no moderation exists in between.
11-3-17 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Maybe I spoke too soon or even jinxed things when I said that it may turn out to be a good fall. Though the last three weeks were pretty wave-tastic this subsequent flat spell has gotten old fast. Fuck I am pretty sure if you do a day to day analysis of surf-able days between Jersey and here over the past three months they may have actually won. Whatever, luckily for me I have been able to pick up a fair amount of catering work. If its going to be god awful I might as well be making money. Considering I put in a ten hour plus day it was money that I made.
11-2-17 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
More small waves and early morning catering shifts kept me out of the water again. Looks like November is beginning about as lack luster as September. The forecast isn’t looking too pretty either folks.
11-1-17 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I had to work a double catering shift forcing an 11 hour day. Due to some domestic drama I didn’t get to sleep till way late the previous night. Overall I was exhausted and from what I heard the waves were marginal at best anyhow.