July 2013 Surf Sessions
7-31-13 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Not getting our fill Ryan and I booked it to New Jetty with our suits still on for a make it or break it mission. Not even checking it we parked and ran up the dunes. To our dismay it was packed with at least 12 groms and 10 other surfers. The current was atrocious and rip terrible making nabbing a wave easy if you are not adverse to paddling the whole time. I grew up surfing jetty currents in New Jersey and have always been fit for the challenge. We got out there and I started catching good runners all the way to the middle of the beach. Unfortunately it was still very weak and mushy meaning lots of cut backs, hopping and awkward forced turns. I was about quit half way through, over it when I noticed that everyone had left except for three older guys who were not keeping the drift. I paddled back out and every time I walked around the jetty and made it out I got a set wave. That went down for my last five waves. On my last one the crowd began to regain its strength. I had already caught over a dozen decent ones and decided to leave a few for the boys out the back. Looks like the waves are going to be pretty consistent over the next few days.
7-31-13 AM Session:2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
I pulled up to the Harbor and the place was fucken packed. All of Ventura and Santa Barbara had to be either padding or checking it. I don’t understand the majority of SB surfers. Why is it I am the only one who does not feel the need to show up to a surf spot with all of my friends, their friends and their friends friends? As if we don’t sit in crowded surf for most of the year anyway. To top it off the waves sucked again. There was lost of swell just like yesterday but everything was super stretched. New Jetty looked the best although once again soft and crowded. There was easily 15 guys out and another 25 changing in the lot to paddle. Over it I met up with Ryan at the Shores to see if it was any better. Things were still really stretched at Fifth St. It looked as though there was better corners further down the beach toward the Hotel. We drove to the south side of Shores and it did look a bit more make-able or we just started to get desensitized to the close outs. We paddled and right off the bat I snagged three good ones and a barrel. Then I don’t know if the tide got too low or what but it got very back washy and more closed out. I did my twenty and bailed.
7-30-13 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
“I should of just stayed in bed curled up with my girl under the covers this morning” was the thought that immediately went through my head as I was checking both New Jetty and River Mouth from the dunes. New Jetty looked rather weak and crowded and River Mouth empty, windy and racy. I chose the latter given the fact that I am always up for a challenge and deep down inside I really thought I could make something out of the stretched south lines. I padded down past the reeds where the army corp of engineers have decided to run a pipe between the mouth and the ocean to let some of the massive amount of water out in the estuary. All they had to do was dig a trench and we might have gotten some sick sand from the whole ordeal. Instead it just looks like a giant stream of piss coming out of the sand into the ocean. No bank, just dank dirty water. Gordo paddled with me and we soon learned there was just too much water moving around out there and the majority of the lines too stretched to get a good one. The back wash sucked too. Gordo bailed while I hung around for my usually 20 wave quota. I found two or three but it was way more work then gain. Air and water were cold too making me glad I packed my 4/3 and boots.
7-29-13 PM Session2: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Sure enough New Jetty had a nice left hander coming off the jetty running all the way to the middle of the beach in it’s best left point break imitation. Actually the sand has been pretty decent there all year. I chilled out in the lot and read for a bit as the tide dropped. At about 7ish conditions were a bit windy but the lines looked fun with a light crowd. I paddled and started getting some really fun long lefts. It was a tad on the soft side, but totally workable. Out of the 17 waves I caught I would say 3/4 of them were keepers. It was far from epic but the best waves I have surfed in over a week. Looks like there going to be some minor south over the next few days. About fucking time.
7-29-13 PM Session1: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Last night my girl, Bizarro and I met up with Ashley and Brianne for some karaoke action at the James Joyce followed by gay night at the Wild Cat. It was my first time at the Kitty in almost a month and it was good to see everyone and cut loose for a night. With fiesta coming up this week I figured I better get an easy night in while I could. I was a bit tired this morning and wanted to sleep and make breakfast with my girl. Trevor said there was a little wave in the morning and the buoys looked right. At round two I headed to Emma and there was definitely some south coming in with a very light crowd. I paddled and found a few fun ones right off the bat although it was a bit on the racy and closed out side. Nathaniel Curran was out making something out of the rights. The water was fucking freezing out of nowhere. Then all of a sudden it was like someone sent out a mass surf alert because all of Ventura showed up packing out the line up. I managed to get a really decent little barrel on one that had me stoked. Unfortunately I hit my face on my knee and my board trying to make it through a deep one and trashed the inside of my mouth. I was spitting up blood for a solid ten minutes. I had a feeling the Harbor was going to be good right before dark on the lower tide thus I bailed.
7-28-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More non-existent surf was on tap yet again today. The US Open concluded in some of the worst surf anyone has ever seen in a contest. Lindsay and I thought about groveling Emma Wood. I was over it and decided to just hang out with my lady instead. I must say we had a most splendid time together.
7-27-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Talk about flat, there was barely any waves at HB for the US open. I thought about a mid day grovel at Emma but the buoys were even worse then Friday. My girl and I had to go to Valencia for the day to meet up with her Aunt and cousins. We enjoyed a nice Thai dinner in the absurdly hot valley. Looks like tons more flatness on the way.
7-26-13 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 29
I was not planning on surfing the small shit at Emma. My lady needed to do some business in Ventura that was going to take about an hour. I decided to roll down with her and have her drop me at Emma and pick me up when I she was done. It was another full on grovel fest. There were a few more guys out then yesterday and they were a bit more frothy then me. I am a pretty good groveler, but this one dude was smashing the tiny crap. In my own right I found a few good ones and even a larrel or two. Looks like more flatness over the next few days.
7-25-13 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves surfed: 37
Tiny but kill-able was the call this afternoon at Emma. I was watching the pros grovel at HB all morning on the US Open web cast. It looked like there was some new south filling in. I checked the buoys and sure enough there was. I was not about to waste any more time sitting around. I knew it was going to to be terrible, but sometimes you just have to grovel. The crowd was light and the few guys who were out were getting waves. I jumped in as the wind began to come up out of the NW. I froth in shit surf. Despite the crap I surfed rather well. The tide began to drop out and the wind took its toll. I had gotten my share and decided to call it day. Real surf is just a day or so away.
7-24-13 No Surfing: 1-3 ft
The buoy were shit and Trevor confirmed the un-ride-ability everywhere. Over it I decided to watch the US Open instead. After which I did absolutely nothing all day long. Yeah for sloth.
7-23-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I wanted to surf this morning, but being that I was away for nearly two weeks my girl really wanted me to spend the morning with her. Considering the fact that all I was really going to miss was marginal at best surf I decided to just chill out with my baby. I cooked us up a pretty wicked Kale, spinach, onion and mushroom frittata with home fries for breakfast. YUM! From the looks of the report there will be plenty of grovel time in the near future. Looks like a possible swell for the weekend. Yeah, weekend swells are so awesome.
7-22-13 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
I find it very fitting that on my last morning here Blacks was about as good as Blacks gets condition wise. The surf was solid chest to head high, glass, nice lines, good corners and pretty consistent. The crowd was on it making it a bit rough at times to get a good one. I paddled more down on the north end of the canyon. There were really good rights and lefts. This was finally after days, the Blacks I drove 200 miles to surf. I had one really deep sick frontside barrel, stuck a few good airs and overall was finding plenty of good ones. The wind came up around 11am and that was fine cause I had already gotten more then my fill. Good times. Looks like I am back on the road home again. I can’t wait to get home to the Barb and see my lady.
7-21-13 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Blacks Beach , San Diego
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
West and I wanted to grab one more session together before I leave town tomorrow. After the terrible morning session I was not expecting anything. I figured worse case scenario we go out there and shoot the shit while we grovel. As it turned out the wind died, the swell was holding and the crowd was slowly dropping off. Everyone was sitting on the north peak so we went and sat the top of the canyon. There were plenty of really fun ones. As the evening wore on it just got more glassy. I managed to get a barrel down the entire length of the canyon and came out. The swell seemed a bit stretched on many of the set waves. Still it was prob the most fun I had of the trip surfing.
7-21-13 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 25
Having only about four hours of sleep I was definitely a bit tired this morning. Fuck I don’t think I got more then a total of 20 hours in the last four days. Screw it, I will sleep when I’m dead. For me Blacks is the reason I came to SD and I am going to surf it as much as possible. The surf was clean and very inviting although crowded when I got down the trail. Of course by the time I suited up the wind had started to come up. By half way through the session the crowd doubled along with the wind, coupled with the low tide things got pretty terrible really fast. It was a kooky annoying weekend crowd too. People just kept getting in my way and blowing good waves I could have taken. I did managed to stick a huge ally oop on my last wave that was sick. As I was walking back up the trail I was passing two college age guys. One turns to me as I was walking by and says “hey you were the guy ripping it out there”. Stoke!
7-20-13 PM Session: 3-5+ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Bizarro and I met up with Daniel at the San Diego swap meet, did a little perusing ending the reunite with a pitcher of beer and fish tacos at South Beach Bar and Grill in Mission beach. Upon returning I met up with West and we cruised down to Blacks for a sunset session. I figured it would be alright considering the wind was coming down and the south was strong. We got there and conditions although a bit fat were very clean and the NW wind swell had dropped out leaving just the south lines. It reminded me of the Blacks I came to surf. Did I mention the crowd consisted of us and three other guys. After about an hour everyone got out and it was just us. I don’t know how it is possible to get one of the best beach breaks in California all to yourself on a Saturday with a solid swell, but it happened. I think I should have bought a lottery ticket on the way home since the odds were in my favor. That night Bizarro, myself and this British chick that was staying with us went out to some club downtown called Jimmy Loves.
7-20-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Scripps Pier, San Diego
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Last night Bizarro and I went to downtown San Diego to see all the comic con action. We ended up finding our way into a private party at The Tipsy Crow with an open bar and free food. The works! It was quite the time. I promise to elaborate more in the recap blog in a few days. I got up a little bit later considering I did not get to bed till around 3am and my foot hurt. I just wasn’t up for the walk to Blacks thus I decided to go down to La Jolla shores and see what was coming in. The Pier had an ok wave off it. Turns out that wave was mushy as all hell and terrible. I noticed some groms getting ok ones in the middle of the beach. I paddled over there and it turned out to be really fun. It was mostly close outs but with a killer ramp both left and right where the lines came together and perfect soft landing. Despite my hurt foot I decided to froth with the groms. Before long I was putting on an air show. I even found a tiny larrel or two. Around wave 27 my foot started to give up on me and I decided to call it a session. I guess I really do thrive in absolute garbage for surf.
7-19-13 AM Session: 4-6+ft, Blacks Beach San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Every time I where my shitty, holey 3/2 you can bet money that the water temp will drop to a termperature that makes it uncomfortable for me to enjoy myself. The surf had definately picked up unfortunately there was still lots of NW wind swell running and when combined with the south and some strange cross chop things became a churned up soup. Throw in a nasty current and my foot injury which has forced me to only pick waves I know I can make with out too much effort and it makes for a less then awesome time. There were plenty of corners to be had and some bombs. Every so often a canyon set would come through. They were hard to find and very inconsistent. I did manage to snag one near the paved trail ramp that ran the canyon that I got a few turns and a nice barrel on. There were a few corners too. Overall thanks to the cold water and my foot I would have to give it an average rating at best.
7-18-13 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
I wanted to surf again but was not sure where. I hit up my boy West after he got off from work so that we could get a session together. I also hit up my boy Pete who was paddling at Del Mar. Thanks to a slight delay as a result of incompetent carpet installers we left Bizarro’s house slightly later then I would have liked. Thus leaving only enough time for Blacks and barely for that. Bizarro came along with camera in hand. It was a bit fat with the tide and new SW ground swell had yet to really show itself. It looked pretty terrible. We didn’t really care. I just wanted to get some water time with a good friend. As it turned out I ended up having a good time. What can I say bad waves and I have a very special relationship.
7-18-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
Bizarro and I made the late night run down to San Diego for the weekend. We got in around 2 am and crashed out. Next morning I got up and cruised to Blacks. Not checking it I just made the hike full knowing it was my best option in the area. There was some wind swell in the water offering up weak peaky chest to head high rides up and down the beach. The crowd was nonexistent and conditions pretty clean. I jumped in the water and it was piss warm. It had to be 75 degrees. I snagged some fun ones although my drunken foot injury was a bit of an impediment. At this point I am thinking I must have done some ligament damage. I don’t believe it too be serious, just a pain in the ass. It would have been nice if I could have had a week of rest and rehabilitation, but that is just not how we roll in Lisanti Land. I always feel it better to work through the pain anyhow.
7-17-13 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Alright the guy who rights the C street report is got to be on crack cause it certainly was not 2-3 ft yesterday and the buoys read even smaller today. With gas at a premium and cash at a bare minimum I was not about to waste ten bucks to grovel. I will be surfing Blacks tomorrow morning so fuck it, I don’t care. Last night I did some crazy pasta dish for dinner with rabbit sausage, seasonal vegetables and a totally from scratch roasted red pepper puree, tomato sauce. It was pretty damn dank.
7-16-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
The report may have said 2-3 ft, but I find that really hard to believe. I am sure there was some terrible weak ass wave at the Harbor or Emma Wood. I was far from interested. Not about to go grovel after the run of waves I just got over the past few days. With a trip to San Diego only a day or so away I find myself at a loss to even consider spending gas money on a fruitless grovel. I got some much needed trimming and re-potting out of the way in my garden.
7-15-13 Am Session: 2-3+ft, Davenport, Santa Cruz
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
I got up early to make my way back to Santa Barbara. I decided to take the PCH home and seek out a surf session on the way. The wind was a little harder then the previous few days up there leaving less options. The tide was a bit low too. I liked the left at Scotts Creek, but no one was out and I was not about to brave shark land alone. Davenport looked the best cleanliness wise. The left hand reef on the south side of the bay had some fun looking bowls. It was very lully making positioning on the reef tricky. With the incoming tide things just got harder to line up. I found a few choice ones, but over all it was a cold slow session and I was plagued with a foot injury that I don’t remember getting, but most likely happened while I was in Fancytown.
7-14-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
What can I say when Fancytown strikes back it does so with a vengeance. I woke up around 1 pm still drunk and a mess. I was in no condition to surf at all. Instead we had an impromptu jam session and watched some movies. Had a mellow lay day. Look for details in the up coming SF blog recap.
7-13-13 PM Session: 2-4+ft, Grey Whale Cove, San Mateo
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 28
After a hearty lunch at Popeye’s we headed back to the city since the wind had come back up again. I assumed we would most likely just surf the Gay Whale again. It looked slightly bigger then the day before. John, tired and over it opted to stay in the car and perv out old people fucking in the van parked next to us. I went and paddled it. There were three other guys on it. It was bigger and more powerful, but also way more backwashy. I ended up getting some fun ones although I found I was way more tired then I thought from the first surf of the day. Later that night I went to Fancytown so hard I could have been the president.
7-13-13 AM Session: 3-5 ft, Waddel Creek, Santa Cruz
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
Once again Waddel looked the best. I was feeling a bit hung over after last nights little visit to Fancytown. This time we gave the reef a go where we saw a fun looking left peeling down the north end of the reef. Turns out it was a bit soft, slow and lully. After three waves I floated to the beach break which was a barrel fest. I had the place to myself the whole session while everyone else surfed the mush burger on the reef. Then John paddled over and it was a full on froth shred sess. I can’t remember the last time I enjoyed a session with so many barres and kill-able sections. So much fun. And we got to heckle Nat Young in the parking lot cause we are stupid like that. Most likely they just thought we had a learning disability.
7-12-13 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Grey Whale Cove, San Mateo
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 58
We wanted to surf a second session. Everything in the actual town of Santa Cruz was on the small side and everything north was very windy. We just began heading back to SF in the hopes of finding something to ride along the way. We settled on Grey Whale Cove or Gay Whale Cove as we came to know it since it was pretty clean and looked wedgy from the road yet as it turned out there was way more back wash on the wave from the steep beach then we would have liked and it was more closed out as well. I ended up frothing the fuck out of it and made the most of the average at best conditions. John got frustrated and was over it. That night we went to some little dive bar with dead animals on the walls. Good times.
7-12-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Waddel Creek, Santa Cruz
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 36
John and I got up early eager to take advantage of some North County action. There is so much variety in surf breaks there its incredible. Of course that being the case picking a surf spot can drive one crazy. My rule is I don’t drive away from good waves. Waddel is one of my favorite waves up here. Its easy to check and relatively easy to access and between a river mouth fed beach break and a reef that offers a few peaks there is something for everyone. I usually stick to the reef. On this particular morning the beach break looked to be offering a very hallow left in front of the river mouth. We paddled and had a peak all to ourselves. Turns out though it was a little too small for how thick and doubled up the waves were coming in and a bit faster then we had thought from the parking lot. Still there were some fun rip-able corners and some barrels. Unfortunately the wind started coming up half way through the session making things a bit more textured then one would have liked. Heard home was good too and Ryan scored Mugu.
7-11-13 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
I had finally decided to get off my lazy ass and make my way up for a weekend of surfing and other mayhem with Mauriello. I thought about surfing down in Ventura early, but then forecasts looked weak and so did reports. Trevor was pumped but he always is. I stayed in bed with my girl a little bit later and made her breakfast. Then I had to get new tires put onto my car among other various bs. I left SB around six and cruised straight up. Made record time too just under 5 hours. Might have been four and half had I not gotten off at the wrong exit ending up on the other side of the city. It was no worries since I am going to do a shit load of north county Santa Cruz surfing all weekend long. Whooot!
7-10-13 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 21
I happened to run in to Trevor while checking the Harbor. He wasn’t surfing but on the way to have lunch with his new chick. New Jetty looked fat, slow and crowded and River Mouth just looked fat and slow. I thought I saw some good ones at Emma when I drove by on the 101 and decided to go back. I must have seen a really tiny grom get one or something cause it was pretty fucking small and terrible. I was too lazy to go back to the Harbor and just desperation paddled. Turns out the water was fucking freezing and it was about as bad as it looked. I did a Lisanti 20 and called it a day.
7-9-13 PM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 29
I was fucking exhausted this morning from yesterday’s Trestles mission. I woke up at 8 am texted Ryan to see if it was worth it. He said no and I was not about to leave the comfort of my girl’s bed. I had some ding repair to do and planned on an evening at the Wood. My girl and I cruised around 7 pm to beat the rush hour traffic. We didn’t, cause Santa Barbara is the new L.A. I almost bailed on the expedition, but I really wanted to find some waves. Upon checking it the surf was epic Great Lakes, fun Florida, crappy NJ and terrible California. I guess everything is all relative. I paddled since I was there. No one was out and after San Clemente that was at least refreshing. I found a few terrible ones. I got wet which is ahead of the game in my book.
7-8-13 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Lower Trestles, San Clemente
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Whenever I go to Lowers now I camp out on the beach for the day. In my old age I am only about to make that Bataan Death March once. There was a time back in the day when I would hike in, surf, hike out for lunch at the Carls Jr and hike back in again. These days I bring a back pack full of food and essentials two boards and a good book. Trevor and I waited till the late evening since last time we were there we noticed that the crowd got much lighter as the night progressed. Sure enough when we got out there the pack was about twenty strong and plenty of waves. I was actually getting set waves every ride. I don’t think I ever have done that out there. Everyone seemed to be favoring the left, which looking fun had a bit more chop on the face then I like. I stuck to the right and had any wave I chose. I had some really fun ones. Too bad my surfing just was not in sync. Oh well, it was still better then anything we would have found in Ventura. Trevor was having a blast till he got hit with his board in the head after a failed left barrel. He should have known better then to waste his time on the tube at Trestles.
7-8-13 AM Session: 3-5 ft, Lower Trestles, San Clemente
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
I don’t know why I go to Lowers at all. I don’t particularly love the wave. The drive is long as hell. Its always crowded and its a bitch of a hike to get to the break. Yet for whatever reason whenever I have the opportunity to go there I jump at it. I think it is because I have been sold on all the media hype on the place that I constantly keep going back. When I was a kid there was an older surfer I looked up to and all he would tell me is how Lowers is the most rip-able wave in the world and that a surfer like me would kill it there. Well I never have. I have been surfing at lowers for over ten years now and I always feel like a kook. The crowd drives me crazy. Everyone is so scrappy. The line up is too tight. Rincon gets just as packed, Malibu gets twice that crowd, yet I always feel really good after I surf those spots. Trevor and I got to the wave around 11, then watched it for a bit. It was a little smaller then I had hoped and bit more crowded, windy too. We paddled and I had a terrible time getting anything good. I picked off one really good left I was happy with and a set wave right that I managed three solid turns and a huge bs air reverse that I just couldn’t hold in the landing.
7-7-13 AM Session: 2-3 ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Trevor hit me up early and wanted to strike out for River Mouth. There was some south on the buoy and I really wanted to surf. We got there and it was complete trash, small and windy, but at least it wasn’t crowded. Trevor thought we should try south county and Malibu. I had shit to do so why not. Things were much cleaner around the corner and slightly more prosperous. County Line was packed and weak so we cruised to Zeros, which was equally weak. On the way out of County Line we saw a few sick little shore breaky lefts that barreled near the life guard tower. We cruised back and paddled it. As we were changing we saw one spit. I got out there first and on my initial wave I whipped around and pulled into a super deep PGCB (perfectly good closed out barrel). Pumped we frothed on the close out tubes and shore break beatings. Then everyone got wise to us and it got crowded. The wind soon followed. I looked at Trevor and we decided we were over it. As he put it “I got a barrel and a turn on one wave, think that is the best we are going to get today”. Then I managed to bang out two solid bs turns on my last wave. It was a terrible day of surfing but when one has not surfed in about a week something is better then nothing.
7-6-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
So fucking much for the surf coming up this weekend. What a lie. All the morning reports looked small and my girl really wanted to spend the day with me. I complied. We struck out for Emma Wood in the afternoon with the hopes of getting some small ones. Unfortunately the wind was absolute shit along with the waves. Over it I took her down to Rincon for a walk since she had never been there before and wanted to check it out. We had a nice little walk despite the constant reminder of the disgusting highway project going on. I found some sea glass. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
7-5-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Holy fucking hangover Batman. I woke up at my girl’s house due to its close proximity to the Wild Cat and was feeling like all hell. Maybe a 24 hour drink-a-thon was not the way to go at all. It was so much fun though. Got to pay to play I suppose. The waves have been shit the past few days anyway. I remembered when I got out of bed that we had taken a cab from my house with the group and therefore both our cars were still up there. It was at that moment I was hit with the harsh reality that I was going to have to do the walk of shame. I was in no real rush and it was not a bad walk. I saw a young osprey in a tree while crossing over City College. When I got home I was consumed with the mess of the previous day and night festivities. The worst part of entertaining is the clean up. Especially when you have gelatinous vodka infused gummy bears all over everything. What a mess. Three hours of cleaning later and I was whipped. Looks like a new run of swell starts tomorrow.
7-4-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I woke up at 12:30 pm with little if any recognition of the latter share of the night. My girl wanted pancakes so I dragged myself out of bed. Ray and Ester were already awake and awaiting the arrival of our friend Corrolla to bring champagne and orange juice. Now I remember why I was always wasted when I used run with Ray and his crew. Bizarro showed up and made himself a rum and coke. At that point it was official, we were going to drink the day away in celebration of America, Fuck Yeah! I was hosting a BBQ here at the Palace with Chantelle around 4pm. The event went down with out a hitch. After the fire works we all suited up and rolled to the Kitty. Whoooot!
7-3-13 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It certain was an epic car surf session for me. I slept in with my girl considering the rather poor quality of surf on the buoy. For whatever reason I got pumped up and decided to run down to Emma for the incoming tide push grovel. It was super tiny when I got there and bit too low with the tide still. There was too much wind for the Harbor. Pat Curren was out with some other grom and in front of them was a line up clogged with kook ass swimmers. I thought I would just hang out in the lot and read while the tide filled in. Unfortunately as the tide filled in so did the hard NW winds making bad conditions even worse. Over it I went for a quick walk and bailed. Made some crazy original salmon bake dish for dinner. My boy Ray cruised up from LA for the night to party and everyone got on the first train to Fancytown.
7-2-13 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 40 mins
Waves Surfed: 37
Damn I was sore when I woke up this morning after another restless night of sleep. I don’t get why I have not been able to sleep the last few nights. I can blame Bizarro for Saturday, but Sunday and Monday? I think I have been so exhausted from surfing so much that I actually was too tired to sleep. Had some strange dreams too that rattled me a bit. My mind is so confused lately. Whatever at least I’m surfing. I woke up late and conditions looked small but I had a feeling the Harbor would still have swell. Ryan was lampooning it but deemed it ride-able. I got down there and there was definitely some wind out of the SW adding texture. New Jetty was really clean, but really weak with a bit of a crowd for what was coming in. I decided to run down to River Mouth, which although a bit more messy had larger sets and no one out. Sure enough there were some solid bowls and walls coming through. I paddled in the Reeds and just went to town. It was a bit racy and bumpy, but there were some choice pick and choose corners. It was not the best surf I have ever had out there. It was fun at the least. Beat not surfing.
7-1-13 PM Session: 2-4+, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
After lunch things were looking still very clean although it had fallen a little victim to the tide. New Jetty was a bit busy and looked weaker then ever. I saw some peaks down by the River Mouth and talked Trevor into cruising with me. We got down there and there were some good ones. We were about an hour too late. The majority of the sand bars were flooded with the high tide. The first half of the session I was frustrated with a real lack of good waves that had me wondering if I had made a mistake not paying my rent. Then I got a set wave and after that was in position for every set wave that came in for the rest of the session. I ended up having more fun then in the morning. River Mouth and I have always had a special relationship together.
7-1-13 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 47
I checked the buoys and sure enough there was still swell. I figured I would just do a morning session considering I had to work some magic in order to get my rent paid. I got to the Harbor and it was looking a little windy out of the south once again. New Jetty was fucking crowded with Lakey, Sage and their posse. Ryan was out and I had yet to watch him catch a wave. The tide was dropping so I hung out on the dunes for about 45 minutes letting the fresh crowd get settled in and hopping that I might see some fun ones to sell me on empty River Mouth. The wind was making it a hard sale. Finally after a brief negative phone conversation with Trevor I decided to just paddle the Jetty. Despite the crowd there were plenty of waves to ride although things were rather weak and for whatever reason I could not get a turn off I liked. Then the wind got really hard and the crowd bailed leaving just Trevor, myself, Gordo, and Robbie out the back. Half an hour later it glassed off. I still surfed like shit but at least it was clean. I was going to bail to the Barb but things were so clean I decided to just grab lunch with Trevor and have another go at the waves. So what if I get evicted from my apartment.
your second trestles entry on the 8th was great.
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