Surfing Ruined My Life

October 2019 Surf Sessions

10-31-19 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 45 min
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 84
The swell was still down and the wind was very hard Santa Anna. Missing yesterday afternoon had me intent on a surfing no matter what. I even left an hour earlier then I normally do. Rivermouth was very crowded, small and poor quality though clean. I headed to Shores where the shape was excellent though still small and very inconsistent. Truthfully I needed to have been there an hour ago considering the tide. On a desperation mission I called Angers and we headed to Hueneme. It was a last ditch effort. The surf was small, maybe stomach high at best. The wind was hard SE making it a bit side shore and the sets were somewhat stretched. Angers was a good sport and desperation paddled it with me. It was terrible out there and if not for the fun of surfing with my buddy I would have left even more frustrated with surfing then I already have been. Later that night Bizarro my Lady and I went out for Halloween to the Wild Cat dressed as Travolta, Uma Thurman and Samuel Jackson in Pulp Fiction respectively. It was a bit nerve racking for me at first not sure how people were going to take me dressed as a African American character. Luckily everyone enjoyed our costume and were not offended.

10-30-19 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
Today was the gnarly Santa Ana day with gusts up to 50mph. Once again we had another huge tide swing and six foot high tide to deal with at noon. All reports from the morning were that it was just about not surf-able. I had a dinner party to cook for at 3 and my window was looking rather grim. I ended up having to bag it. I heard it was head high tubes at both River Mouth and Shores. I can’t catch a break this year.

10-29-19 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 82
Another plagued with a gnarly tide swing.   I actually got up at seven to go surf, but the tide was already at 4 foot and climbing to a 6.5 at 10:30.  I did the math and knew it would be completely swamped by the time I got down there and then I would have to do a repeat of yesterday and hang around till the tide dropped.  At Noon I headed south.  I had to order up some new laminents for Clarks Surfboards down by Ventura Harbor so I started there.  River Mouth was a bit stretched, New Jetty was average and crowded.  The wind was light south and clean enough to warrant a look at Shores.  It was a bit more messy there with the best bar by Fifth.  Not feeling super stoked I decided to look at Strand.  It was about Stomach and but still very fat with the tide.  Strand was the cleanest wave I had seen.  I decided to go back to Shores.  In the time it took to check Strand and come back the tide had already drained out way too low.  On a last desperation of effort I went back to Strand and just paddled the bowl on my fish.  The quickly draining tide pretty much sucked all the swell out of there too and it was a real grovel. 

10-28-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 78
Finally I was graced with a chance at Santa Anna’s this morning.  I was also cursed with a six foot high tide at ten and a fading swell.  I started at the Harbor.  River Mouth was pretty fat.  The best waves were from Knoll to the south side of New Jetty.  There about thirty guys on it and hardly enough waves to go around.  Ryan prompted me to check the Shores where it was also fat, but empty.  On whim I checked the Strand and though too fat to surf at the moment I saw enough potential to wait it out.  I hung around for about forty five minutes till Ryan showed up and pulled the trigger to paddle.  Its a good thing we did cause I got my best waves in the first half hour of the session.  It was about chest to head and some tubes.  I had a few good left barrels and a couple shacker rights.  Then it got crowded for what was out there and then the wind came up.  Still it was stoke to get a few tubes.  Looks like the Santa Anna’s are going to blow through Wednesday.   God willing the fires will stay at bey and the waves fun.

10-27-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 78
Last night after a 95 hour work week Bizarro, my lady and I hit the Wild Cat with an impromptu costume of Point Break. I wore a tuxedo and a Reagan mask, donning an over sized hand gun, Bizarro did Keanu  with a shot gun and FBI vest and my girl wore a wet suit half on as Lori Petty.  It wasn’t our best, but considering we pulled the whole thing together in less then an hour before charging the bar I’d say we did alright.  Our real costume will be reviled on the 31st at the Wild Cat.  Should be a good time so come on out.  It goes with out saying that we partied a bit too hard and therefore were a bit late to wake.  My plan was to go to Jalama for the afternoon evening session to take advantage of the fast rising wind swell and minor south swell combo action.  The winds were forecast to be light all day.  By noon it was pretty stiff onshore with little chance of it cleaning up.  Down the south the wind was stiff SW.  Not having surfed in six days I was paddling something no matter what.  I headed toward Ventura.  The Harbor showed some solid NW wind swell, enough to lead me to believe that Strand would be fun.  Sure enough there was a solid chest to head high wave off the Ship.  It was a little fat with the tide still and had some cross wind on it.  The sets were solid and it looked fun enough.  The water was ten degrees warmer then the last time I was there leaving me sweating in my 4/3 and boots.  The wind decided to switch to NW after 45 minutes and the draining tide made it all riddled with rip tides.  What started out as a fun surf quickly became a very hard forced twenty.  Beat not surfing.

10-26-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I had a chunk of the morning to surf before the wedding. Of course it was tiny and not worth the risk of anything happening that could cause me to be late or not perform at my best. It was for the best that I didn’t cause the wedding turned out to be way more work then I had originally intended. It was the first large scale wedding I have ran in about three years though hard work it went off amazingly and was invigorating to be a chef again. I think it’s time to step up and jump back into the big leagues.

10-25-19 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
My dreams of actually getting a surf in today were dashed by a six foot high tide, hard Santa Anna’s and a lack of surf.  Just the same it was a blessing to allow my hand to heal a bit more.  I had another corporate wood fire pizza lunch with Fire Fly Catering down in the Funk Zone for some tech company.  At the moment this is one of the most fun clients I have.  Literally we show up at your home, office, wedding, whatever with a wood fire pizza oven on a trailer make fresh awesome pizzas right there in front of you.  Its pretty rad.  Check those guys out at FireFlyPizza.com for all your Italian catering needs in the Santa Barbara/Ventura Area and beyond make a special request to have me on site and Ill be there to cook some awesome food for you.  Alright enough shameless promotion.  I heard there were clean waist plus waves from Ventura Harbor to Strand.  I had a wedding for 200 on Saturday and three small dinners as well to prep for keeping me occupied till 10:30 pm making it yet another twelve hour day.  I promise I will start surfing and working less soon, don’t give up on me.

10-24-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Finally the last day of my week of corporate lunch from hell had come.  I still didn’t have an opportunity to surf since I had another high end Hope Ranch dinner after.  At least I had finally gotten to see some light at the end of the tunnel.  Tomorrow morning I have a small window to surf early if its good.  As I was unloading the truck I caught the side of the the door with my middle finger on my right hand and ripped it right open.  I could see the bone.  Lunch was at 11 am sharp and it was already 10:15.  I had no time for stitches.  Luckily I always keep crazy glue and band aids in my bag.  I was out of Crazy Glue having to use it on one of my fellow workers at a wedding a month ago and forgot to replace it.  Fucked I used my apron string as a tourniquet to stop the bleeding long enough for me to clean it up and attempt to put it back together.  Four band aids and rubber glove later I had successfully closed it up enough to get through the three hour lunch.  Being that I could move my finger alright and had relatively alright feeling in it all things considered I assumed I must not have done any tendon or real nerve damage.  I made it through lunch a bit painstakingly and had a look at my finger.  Expecting to have to run to the urgent care for a stitch or two before my Hope Ranch dinner party I carefully removed my makeshift field dressing.  I don’t know if a Leprechaun crawled up my ass or what but for whatever reason the inner wound held together. I was still in a lot of pain and my finger fucked, but if careful I could make it through the rest of this sixteen hour day.   With all I had in me I managed to preserve and meet all of my obligations and satisfy all my clients.   This incident was a bit of a wake up call that I need to find something more concrete with better job security and benefits in case of such an emergency.  If anyone out there is looking for a very capable, dedicated, hard working executive chef  or some other management type position in the food service, hospitality business or beyond.  I am more then willing to entertain offers.  I promise you would not be disappointed.  If you have some investment capital to burn I have an Italian Restaurant/Jazz club model that I think would go off big in the Ventura Area.  Oh and from what I heard Strand turned on as the tide dropped mid day.

10-23-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
The Santa Anna’s came up hard and strong not that it did me much good. Once again I was booked solid. Angers and Ryan said I didn’t miss much but still not surfing is really taking a toll on me.

10-22-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I was faced with a fifteen hour day. I had my corporate lunch in the morning. In the afternoon I had the first of a string of dinners in Hope Ranch that a very wealthy regular client booked me for. I was left with no time not surf. From what I heard both Strand and Shores were about as good as they get. It was definitely a tough pill to swallow.

10-21-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
This week is going to be rather difficult for me to get waves. I have my monthly week long corporate lunches, plus a big wedding on Saturday and three dinner parties. It’s going to pay well but my surf time scarce. Luckily for me the Santa Anna’s never materialized. Angers found some corners at Shores. I hoped to get a few in the afternoon but got bogged down with prep and it didn’t happen. If anyone out there wants to pay me to write this log I’ll gladly quit my job and will even write something worth reading everyday instead of this crap.
10-20-19 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 78
There was a slight rise in the swell and some new NW ground swell.  The Ship has some solid lefts sets coming off the Jetty and the crowd was a bit lighter due to there being a  more wind on it.  For whatever reason something clicked and I managed a very fun session despite the tricky windy conditions.  It felt good considering I am working every morning this week and am going to miss all of the Santa Anna event wind.  Maybe I will get lucky and it will hang around for the afternoons otherwise I will as usual make the most out of whatever is thrown my way.

10-19-19 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 78
Very similar conditions to yesterday were on tap.  The Ship was a bit bigger then Friday and a bit more crowded as well.  Angers was on it and I decided to join him.  Today I wore my 4/3 and boots and was much happier.  It led to a better session though still very mixed up.  I felt a bit better out there, but the last two weeks I have been plagued with a bit of lower back pain and definitely was not myself, old age I suppose.  I had a gig making pizzas in the Funk Zone for a wedding rehearsal dinner.  Our work space was literally on the street making it a bit hectic.  The gig went down famously.

10-18-19 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 78
The Channel was a mess with strange wind and lots of combo swell.  There was north wind in Santa Barbara, and south wind from Stand to Rincon.  I heard It was head high plus at the Ship and met Ryan and Angers there for a session.  It was a bit crowded for what was out there and the water freezing leaving me rather uncomfortable. Couple that with a rising tide and very shifty wonky conditions I had a less then stellar session and actually left feeling a tad bit dejected.  Oh well tomorrow is another day.

10-17-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 64
There was lots of combo swell in the water.  The winds were funky, Emma Wood was small and I heard Shores and Strand were crap.  There were some stretched sets at Mouth with corners. Being the best of the worst Angers and I walked down past the Mouth and found a few peaks.  It was actually more fun then it looked.  After my first few waves the wind came up out of the south adding some unwanted crumble and then the impending high tide killed it.  Rest of my day was spent working.

10-16-19 No Surfing: 1-2+
Miles Driven: 64
I had some important errands to run taking me down to Camarillo.  On the way back I had hoped to get some waves.  New Jetty had some waist high wind slop all chopped up with the NW wind on it.  Normally I would have grovelled it, but there were about fifteen guys on it.  I had a look around everywhere on the way home, but couldn’t find anything palatable so I bagged it.

10-15-19 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 78
With some new fresh NW wind swell in the water I headed south pumped for a surf. New Jetty was solid but as usual too crowded for me to get excited. On whim I drove to strand hoping for something. The tide was a bit fat. There were some chest high bowls coming in by the Ship with no one out. It wasn’t epic by any means. Still it was the best waves I had seen in a few days. I paddled my fish and made the most of what was on offer. It was worthy of an hour before work. I’ll take it.

10-14-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
After yesterday’s furstration I wanted nothing to do with the beach. My lady wanted to go hiking and I obliged. We decided to go hike up the peak of Figueroa Mountain. We are not hiking people and we’re reminded once again on this hike. I suppose it’s nice to get out in nature, but we are more the walk on the beach to the bar for a drink. We did reward ourselves with a nice tasting at Beckmen’s Vineyard followed by a Bavarian feast in Solvang. I heard the wind swell came up at Jalama before dark. Guess I should have brought a board.

10-13-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
There was a bit of fresh SE swell in the water unfortunately it was coupled with a severe high tide and south wind. The meager south was buried in the tide and hacked to pieces by the wind. Hoping more swell would fill in and stand up with the lower tide I went into the shop to help Gabe finish up. After it was even more pathetic. I would have groveled New Jetty but it was kooked out with 15 soft tops. Over it I bailed.

10-12-19 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 64
The buoys were down as were my spirits. So far the fall has been as bad if not worse then the summer. Gabe and I had a batch of board in production. He was already in the bey. The wind was light and I decided to have a look at The Harbor. Though small there were some kill-able bowls up and down the beach worthy of an hour. I ran down past the Mouth where I have been finding some decent peaks. For once it ended up being way more fun then it looked and I lost myself in the waves for an extra hour. It felt great. The water was warm, the sun was shining, it was glassy, dolphins were jumping, a shark even swam under me while I was riding a wave. It was just one of those days that reminded me why I surf in the first place. The batch went well too.

10-11-19 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 126
The Santa Anna’s picked up down south and I knew River Mouth was the call with the South/NW combo.  I was about to leave to head there when I got a call from Ryan that a fire broke out in the Santa Clara River Slough, most likely due to all the bums that live there.  As a result they closed the Harbor and all subsequent roads that crossed the River.  I heard the smoke pouring out over the beach would have made surfing tough anyway.  Instead I decided to cruise up to Jalama since I didn’t have to work till four anyway.  Unfortunately it was pretty tiny and crowded with fifteen guys at Cracks and another ten at the camp ground.  I hung out on the beach and the crowd steadily dwindled down to four and I paddled.  It was really grovelly out there.  I worked hard for my waves and was ultimately left wanting.  As far as work went I had a high end fancy wine dinner at the Museum of Natural history.

10-10-19 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 30
I wanted to go get some of the wind swell at Emma Wood or even Strand before work on the way down I stopped to just have a look at Rincon and noticed my tire was dangerously low.  Being that I don’t have a spare cause even though I drive a top of the line Honda Civic SI they decided to stiff me on a spare tire.  Being that traffic back north was shit till around ten I decided to just grab my fish and grovel Indicator.  It was a rock scrapper for sure, but I made the most of it thanks to my trusty Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz.  That thing can rip anything. From there I found a gas station in Carp to fill up my tire and the cruised straight to America’s Tire in Goleta to get a new tire.  Those guys always do a good job for a decent price and no I am not paid for the plug.  The rest of my day was spent cooking up food for rich people.

10-9-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water:1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 64
After yesterdays blunder I was not about to waste any time on a goose chase. The wind was light offshore and it was peaky. Stoked I bolted out there and got a few fun little barrels right off the bat. Ryan showed up and we shared a fun peak for an hour before I had to go to work. If it had been about three feet bigger I would have been late to work. Since it wasn’t I decided I better go get that money.

10-8-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water:1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 72
I had work at noon. There was a bit more south in the water leading me to believe that I might find something to surf in Ventura. It was a bit walled and fast at Mouth and crowded and far from fun at New Jetty. Ryan said that shores had good sand the past few south swells so I had a quick look over there. With the high tide and lack of swell it was pretty burgered out there thus back to River mouth I went. I was just in time for the wind to come up. My suit was already on so I paddled anyway. There were a few ok bars by the bird protected area that I made the most of despite the horrible conditions.

10-7-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu Surfrider
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 150
After groveling basically all weekend long and missing a bunch of fun surf thanks to work all week I wanted to get something. With little left in the water but some trace south LA was my only real option. The wind was up pretty good but Leo looked decent enough. Unfortunately there was a classic longboard contest going on and they were running double heats leaving few scraps. With no other options I headed to Surfrider. First was crowded and inconsistent. Second and Third looked rip-able and there was only a few guys out. Just as I was about to paddle out I got a call from my loan officer that he could approve me for the house I wanted to buy at Strand despite the fact that I have solid credit, a decent down and a strong co-signer. I was pissed and needed to paddle. I ended up surfing way longer then the shitty closed out crossed up peaks warranted just to clear my head. I actually found a few runners through second. If anyone out there who reads this happens to deal in home loans and thinks they can help me out feel free to hit me up. At the moment I’m just going to have to try and turn over a few more stones.

10-6-19 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Father Johns
Time in Water:30 min
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 41
I had a brunch drop off in Summerland followed by a very high end fundraiser for the Dreams Fiubdarion also in Summerland. There was a two hour window between them so I headed south with my sights on Emma Wood for a quickie. Traffic was shitty leaving me little time. Johns was the closest easiest wave surf-able. It was grovelly but fun out there. I think few people can make the most out of mini waves like I do. No one was in the water when I paddled out. As soon as I got in a group of swimmers out themselves directly in the impact zone in front of me. I did my thing while surfing around everyone. I guess I too close to this drunk assholes girl friend while landing a backside air reverse. When I got out he got in my face looking for a fight. To be honest if I didn’t have to go back to work I think I would have dropped the moron. It was for the best that I let it be. The event was over the top with vendors and live trapeze and dance acts. Nothing like a Santa Barbara elite charity shin dig.

10-5-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I had a charity event at Lotus Land that i had hoped to have been able to surf after. Load out and clean up took just long enough to dash that dream. Once again I need to remember that I don’t get paid to surf and have to keep making that money.

10-4-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water:1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 78
After being relegated to four days of afternoons I had a morning off to surf. Though my time was limited with a long arduous prep day ahead of me I saw enough NW swell in the water to lead me to believe that Strand might be fun. My gamble paid off with glassy chest plus bowls at the Ship and only a handful of people out. Stoked I tore on my wetsuit and enjoyed a surf with just Ryan and myself. Sessions like that are rarity in crowded California. It was lots of fun and totally got me through my work day.

10-3-19 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I had to work a 12 hour plus day today and with the day light waining little by little everyday now the before dark session has become more difficult. At least I’m making money.

10-2-19 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 54
I really don’t know how people who only can surf in the afternoons deal with all the frustration. This maybe why many 9-5ers don’t even bother and I don’t blame them. It sucks fighting rush hour traffic only to sit in sub par windy and usually crowded conditions. Robbie paddled Solimar and after fighting an hour of traffic I showed up to some very meager conditions. I thought about looking at the point but with all the wind it was bound to clogged with kiters up at Pipes and it’s down right hectic to try and surf with those guys zipping around the line up. I took my fish over to the reef and put in yet another hard grovel. Later I met my girl and her Dad at Strand to look at a potential house.

10-1-19 PM Session: 1-2 + ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 64
Maybe driving down for a surf after work today was a mistake. There was promise of a new south swell filling in and reports from the morning seemed promising. The wind was light on the cams when I left Goleta. As per usual the wind came on like a light switch right as Robbie and I were looking at New Jetty. Still I would have paddled if there wasn’t already twenty guys on it. I hate fighting for good surf let alone bad. I went to the point with my fish and groveled a very hard twenty up a Pipe. At least it wasn’t crowded though I should have just sucked it up and paddled New Jetty.