Surfing Ruined My Life

August 2016 Surf Sessions

8-31-16 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 54
After yesterday I really wanted to get some more fun wind swell at Emma.  Of course the ocean had very different plans for me.  So far this season every time I actually go to bed early and wake up early I get screwed.   That is exactly the boat I was as I stood there affront a small lack luster ocean.  I drove so I paddled and It was about as bad as it looked.  Rest of the day was spent in the trenches prepping for a wedding.

8-30-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 64
I met Ryan down at Ventura Harbor only for it to be super weak and crowded at New Jetty and a bit fat and lack luster at the River Mouth.  Emma looked fun on the way down thus I went back there.  I was glad I did cause what I behold was really fun combo swell Emma Wood with peaks everywhere.  There was a solid crowd, though lots of wave for everyone.  It was nothing special.  After this horrid month of surf I was super pumped.  I managed to get a few cherry ones.  Finally riding some real waves on this board I can safetly say it does not work.  Back to the drawing board.

8-29-16 AM Session: 2-3 ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
I cruised to the Harbor finally having a day to myself.  The waves were far from epic, the crowd 30 strong and wind on it.  All my favorite combination for a great surf.  I actually had a few important phone calls to handle and since the wind was on it anyway I decided to get caught up and wait out the crowd.  After an hour the crowd dropped to just three people, by the time I paddled only one guy remained.  Soon he left and the line up was all mine.  I managed a few.  I don’t think this current board I am riding is a winner, though I do believe I know how to correct it next time around.

8-28-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
My girl and I enjoyed a leisurely morning followed by a nice home cooked breakfast by yours truly.  Considering the surf didn’t look like anything spectacular I would say it was time well spent.  The rest of my day was spent cleaning up from the previous day’s wedding.

8-27-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I had a wedding at 4pm and prep to do for it at 11.  Last night we went out to the Wild Cat, Bizarro and I where we met up with my girl and some of her work friends plus the usual cronies.  I got hammered got into a little tiff at the bar and steadily found myself out on the street with a rather angry girl friend.  I really need to get a grip on reality and calm down.  I’m not single anymore and I need to be a tad bit more responsible. No woman wants to be with a drunken brawler.

8-26-16 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 54
I really wanted to go surf Ventura Harbor, but I was on a short time window and as usual whenever I try and get an early start something goes awry.  Of course this morning my car was just about out of gas.  The time it took to fill my tank cost me my chances of surfing the Harbor thus the best I could do was to settle for Emma Wood.  It was super small, the tide way too low and  a pack of six groms paddled making the shit conditions that much worse.  I groveled a few and somehow managed a small little tube I was pumped on.  Later I showed up to the kitchen on to find my boss on the floor  with a seizure.  After taking him to the hospital I got a field commission of acting executive chef and all the stress that goes with it at my same pay.  Isn’t our society grand?

8-25-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
There was a minor rise in the swell from yesterday and I am sure that Ventura Harbor would have had a wave.  I didn’t really have time to make it that far considering I had an appointment at 11 am and I was marooned at my girl friends house dependent upon her for a ride home.  Trevor hit me up that both Rincon and Emma were tiny, being that they were my only options Rather then  wasting ten dollars in gas I decided to forgo the surf and stayed at home.

8-24-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I had a thing at noon or later leaving me plenty of time to get a few waves  before. As usual the ocean did not cooperate with my request.  It actually turned out for the best cause a bit more obligation then I initially thought came up so it was good I was fresh and not tired from a grovel.

8-23-16 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 64
I woke this morning and I was exhausted.  That Mexico trip kicked my ass.  My girl and I did a ton in three days and I am not as young as I once was.  The wind was right and there was still enough south coming in to make me drive down to Ventura and get a few.  The harbor was small weak and windy.  With a rising tide I decided to hedge my bets at Emma.  It was super small there, but if I drive I surf so I paddled.  It was about as small and as bad as it looked.  I managed a little fs tube.  A day surfing is always better then a day not surfing.

8-22-16 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Blacks
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 50
My lady and I enjoyed a leisurely morning in Rosarito before taking a trip down the coast to San Miguel.  I wanted to see how much it changed over there since so much had changed already since the last time I was there.  I was also hoping to get a surf in along the way as well.  We got to San Miguel and the tide was a bit high and swell a bit down.  I could have found a few at the top of the point, but it was a little too close to the rocks for my comfort level.  We had a look at K 38 on the way back and it was also a bit high and small.  The decision was to head back to the US and grab an evening session at Blacks.  Crossing the boarder took about two hours where every two feet someone was trying to hock anything and everything from churros to puppies.  I got to Blacks with enough time for a sunset surf.  Unfortunately the tide was a bit too low making it drained, shitty and rather closed out.  I suppose it beat not surfing.  At least the sunset was pretty.

8-21-16 PM Session: 4-6+ ft, K38, Mexico
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 50
Needles to say we partied rather hard at the wedding the night before, which actually there is quite a tale to tell, but you will have to wait for me to write a blog soon on that one.  As a result we got a rather late start making our way to coast.  My girl and I were staying Rosarito and I wanted to find some waves in that area.  I have not been to Baja in over 15 years and the last time I scored San Miguel during a west swell in the winter.  I had never been for a south swell.  Everyone I talked to said to shoot for K38 so that was what I did.  Its basically a series of points and reef breaks.  I ended up surfing the reef directly in front of the parking lot since there were only a few body boarders out and I was not in the mood for a crowd or a long paddle.  Of course as soon as I paddled it did not take long for a handful of other surfers to come out and crowd that spot as well.  I found a few good rights though the reef was a bit shifty and took a bit of getting used to. The spongers were fronting all the good waves being locals and pretty ganged up on me for every set.  I never really got my rhythm  out there and my hang over certainly didn’t help me either. This wasn’t a surf trip anyway, but a “couple trip” so whatever.

8-20-16 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 207
I had to be in Tijuana for a wedding of one of my girl friend’s college friend.  There was enough time in the morning to allow me to meet up with my boy West for a quick session at Blacks.  I was hoping for some fun south swell canyon action.  Instead I got crowded closed out tidey Blacks thanks to a little too much west  swell in the water mixing in. It was nice to catch up with my friend and I did manage to get a few fun ones.  As far as the new board goes I am not sure it agrees with me.

8-19-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 64
The south swell was peaking and I had a few hours before I had to leave for Mexico.  I cruised down to Ventura Harbor and of course the wind was already all over it and the tide too high.  The crowd was intense everywhere cause it was the first time we have had waves in nearly three weeks. Even though it was an average swell at best every surfer in California decided to take the day off.  I ended up at Emma Wood, which actually looked rather fun and there was only two guys on it.  Stoked I began getting dressed.  In the few minutes it took me to get ready thirty guys managed to join me.  The water was fucking freezing and all I brought was my three mil.  Between all of this and trying to learn a new board I had a less then stellar session though I did manage to make one sick front side tube.

8-18-16 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 64
Finally I got some waves this morning.  My time limit was short and the swell was inconsistent and meager at best, but when you have not seen waves over knee high in over a week anything will do I suppose.  As it turns out the accident on the one that kept me from Jalama was not quite fatal though one person is in critical condition so there is still a chance I can get my vindication yet.  Apparently some idiot drove into oncoming traffic and caused a wreck with three tractor trailer trucks.  The crash was such a mess route one was still closed today.  God figure.  I’m going to Mexico for the weekend.  I have not been to Baja in over 15 years and I’m going with my girl friend.  This should be interesting folks.  Stay tuned.

8-17-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Miles Driven: 40
I wanted to surf and thanks to the incompetence of the majority of Californians my day was cut short.  Stoked, I had a look at the Jalama cam and it was clean with some adequate swell coming in, plus the chance of pre-dusk off shores had me amping.  I rushed out of the house north bound I got all the way to the pch hwy 1 only to find out it was closed as a result of even more California incompetence, yet another most likely fatal car wreck on the one.  I can only assume it was fatal because the road was closed, fuck it cost me my surf so there better have been fucking dead dismembered bodies scattered all over the place.  The only posibility of getting there was to take the 246, which would have put me at an 80 mile detour.  That wasn’t going to happen thus I didn’t get to surf once again. Fuck Summer, Fuck Surfing, Fuck, FUCK, FUCK FUCK!!!!!!!

8-16-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More meager conditions and some afternoon work once again kept my chances of getting in the ocean non-existent.

8-15-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I thought about going to Jalama.  Upon studying the cam for a bit the sets and consistency did not look large enough to warrant the gas or effort.  It was another lay day in a way too long span of such.

8-14-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
The lack of surf continues and so does the hustle and flow that has become my life over the past eight months.  Work is work and money is money might as well take it when I can.  Think I am going to take a drive up north tomorrow and get some windswell action

8-13-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Fuck this flat spell.  I am really starting to get burnt out on California summers.  Last night went real bad at the club.  I had nothing, optimism and certainly was in most jovial of spirit.  I had to work a wedding till nine then was suppose meet up with my girl at the Wild Cat for some stage performance and after that my old room mate and boy from NJ was going to meet us as well.  A bit too many drinks and old habits die hard.  Things got out of hand.  Such is life.

8-12-16 No Surfing:  1-2ft
More flatness.  More Weddings.  More of the same.  Whoot Whoot.

8-11-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Another flat day smack in the middle of another flat spell in the final days of another flat summer. It was fine I was tied down to some catering work.  White people making Mexican food for a Mexican wedding.  Quite the novel idea.  Anyhow if there isn’t shit to surf then I might as well get paid.

8-10-16 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I checked the cam and it looked even smaller then the previous two days.  The buoys confirmed that the wind swell was on the decline.  Jalama had a few chest high sets on the camera and if I wasn’t injured I probably would have made the drive.  Small waves are super tough on my back.  I might as well take advantage of this flat spell to stretch and strengthen.

8-9-16 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 64
More of the same small shit was on offer today.  I mean an exact carbon copy of the day before, maybe just with a tad less south, a bit more closed out and somewhat weaker on top of a thicker crowd.  Summer is just awesome!  I got down earlier hoping to beat the wind.  Of course anytime I decided to do such the wind comes up earlier making my rush down a moot point.  I did my twenty, got my exercise and called it a day.  Good times.  Looks like no real waves anywhere in the five to seven day forecast.

8-8-16 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 64
Actually I had no intentions on surfing today.  The report was meager at best and I was far from frothy.  Ryan called and said he was going to paddle New Jetty and that it looked decent enough.  Bizarro and I cruised and did manage to find a few though nothing special.  At the moment with my back all fucked up I am not able to grovel as well as I used to.

8-7-16 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
Miles Driven: 152
Last night things got out of hand at the Wild Cat as they tend to do on the Saturday of Fiesta.  Ultimately way too much fun was had by all and we adjourned a bit early for everyone’s safety.  Needless to say I was not about to wake up early for any surf.  My girl and I decided to go up to the Guadelupe dunes.  I packed a board just in case there were waves.  Actually swell was solid though all blown out.  Ryan claimed New Jetty was solid wind swell and after what I saw up north I would believe it.

8-6-16 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft
All reports for the weekend were rather small and between that and all of my crazy Fiesta events I was not all that eager to look for waves.  Ryan found a few at New Jetty.

8-5-16 No Surfing: 2-3+ft
Fiesta night two was fun but expensive.  Anyone who thinks its free to party obviously doesn’t really party.  Today was the Fiesta equestrian parade and the largest in the county. I never miss it if the opportunity allows.  My girl and I headed to State Street to enjoy the festivities and as usual the show did not disappoint.  According to Ryan I didn’t miss much in the way of surf since the wind came up early.

8-4-16 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Point Dume, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 136
Last night was the official Fiesta kick off party at the Wild Cat as per usual all the major players were out.  I got back to my apartment around 9:30 and found my roommate drunk and belligerent.  Not wanting to leave him alone in the apartment in such a state I was forced to bring his annoying drunk ass along.  Ryan had checked the Harbor and said it was all windy and crowded already.  Thus I had a look at Rincon, which was small and crowded then Emma where though there was swell coming in the bottom isn’t that good and it had a few more guys and a bit more wind then I would have liked.  At that point my back was against the wall and I really wanted a surf plus the new south was really showing itself. Considering the wind Malibu was my only option and the only spots that could handle all the wind were Leo, Dume, Little Dume and Surfrider.  I chose Dume since it was the best option given the tide, wind and crowd.  Though a bit inconsistent the sets were solid head plus.  I found a few choice rides until the tide got too low making clearing the inside reef difficult.  Unfortunately I pushed the envelope a bit hard and found myself bounced off the rocks a few too many times.  Besides that and the usual annoying LA kooks I would say it was a fun surf.

8-3-16 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 29
 Miles Driven: 64
My plan was just to go back to Ventura Harbor and surf New Jetty again.  When I pulled Ryan was about to paddle though a bit disgruntled by the size and intensity of the crowd.  I had a look and sure enough every hot grom in the area was all over the place while the Coffin brothers and there usual entourage were checking it. As it turned out the Coffin’s are having some kind of grom event there this weekend.  I watched the mush lefts roll through and everyone scramble for every ripple in the ocean.  Then I saw the Coffin bros suiting up and another two cameras setting up on the beach.  In my current state I am just not looking for that much competition in the water.  I went back to  Emma Wood where I had noticed a few sets from the freeway.  It was far from great, but there were a few corners to be had with only a handful of surfers and the usual kooky annoying swimmers.  I managed a few ones.  It wasn’t as fun as New Jetty, but with out a doubt less hassle.  I think I will try and get up earlier tomorrow. Then again it is the opening night of Fiesta kick off party so all bets are off.

8-2-16 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 64
After yesterday’s warm up north I decided to re-enter surfing society and go south toward Ventura.  Ryan had called and said the wind was already on it so I had a look at both Emma and Rincon first.  Both were less then desirable thus I continued on to Ventura Harbor.  Though there was a bit too  much wind for River Mouth New Jetty  was surf-able.  The crowd as about a dozen or so strong most being groms.  I paddled and pulled rank immediately grabbing the best set wave as soon as I paddled out.  Then I paddled back to the peak and continued to set this precedent.  It was a bit on the weak and jumbled side, but I can surf the slop even in my degenerated state.  I guess I made it look to much fun cause every pro and ripper in Ventura decided to paddle with in the first 45 minutes I was out there.  It was fine cause I had already got mine and it was not that good any way.  Rather then deal with the hassle I took one my, tipped my hat to the new shift and left.  Its definitely good to be surfing again.

8-1-16 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 44
Miles Driven: 126
FINALLY! A DAY OFF! I thought it would never come.  I knew on Tuesday last week that things were going to be pretty hectic for a bit and they were.  With both my back injury and not surfing for a week I was not about to go south and battle it out with the masses.  Instead I noticed that the conditions for Jalama were decent and made the call.  Sure enough when I got there the surf was clean and solid chest to head with bigger sets.  The camp ground over by the River Mouth has been better then Cracks the past few times I have been up there and today was more of the same. River Mouth looked good, but there were about nine guys out there and all of them were killing it.  I didn’t travel that distance to take part in a pro show.  Instead I made the hike down the beach to Cracks.  Though not as good it was bigger there albeit more mushy.  Six guys were on it and no one of any real consequence.  From the look of things most had been out since the morning and were about done.  By the time I dressed and paddled only three guys remained, then another two paddled right after me.  Still there were plenty of waves to be had by all and for whatever reason the surf gods were shining on me and I was in position with every set wave that came through.  Still though the majority of the waves were rather soft.  I was riding my trusty old Rooster board and I am said to say that I think after six years of riding it the time has come to set the stick to pasture.  It was a good run my friend.  Hope you find a new owner in the next life, craigslist with the rest of my beaters.