March 2012 Surf Sessions
3/31/12 No Surfing: 3-5ft
Saturdays are tough for me I work anywhere from a 9-11 hour day depending on what is going on and Friday night I always party a bit too hard. You know what weekend crowds suck anyway and I get enough surfing in on a daily basis that unless Sand Bar, El Cap, Hammonds, Sharks are breaking or if Rincon is actually good will I make a real effort to surf. Last night I got drunk at the Kitty, what else is new. I went out all by myself and my usual friends I chill with all picked up chicks super early and I did not want to blow there mojo. I ended up having a blast just hitting on girls with the most bizarre lines ever and amusing myself with stupid banter. Considering my demeanor I was not surprised that I did not get laid. I subscribe to an odd brand of sense of humor that turns most off. Fuck them I just wanted to have fun and I did. Unfortunately I tripped over a bike rack on the walk home and hurt my hip.
3/30/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 12
I was suffering for a serious case of being completely lack luster all day this morning. It might have been because I stayed up till 2am watching Seinfeld episodes. Kooky we started something and I am going to finish it and then blog my results. The buoys were back in the toilet for town leaving me with Rincon as my only option. It was a bit on the smallish side but I saw my friend Heather get a good one through the Cove and decided if that was coming through there then I could always go get something up top. I should have went and surfed up top. Instead I hung around the cove which was a bit weaker then I would have liked and then eventually got a bit more crowded then I would have liked toward the end of the session. I guess it was better then not surfing.
3/29/12 PM Sessions: 2-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 21
“You can’t go left in the Cove at Rincon” someone said to me as I was about to drop in on a wide one that I was too deep to go right on. I may have bee able to make the right, but it was questionable. Besides there was some other guy in the perfect spot for it. Then I looked left and sure enough there was a section. At that moment I replied “Watch me”. I dropped in gave it two pumps, boosted and stuck perfectly a text book FS Indy Grab Nose Pick Air Reverse, damn that’s a mouth full. When did maneuvers get so technical? Thanks a lot Dane Reynolds and your entire generation of above the lip acrobats. Its funny cause up until that moment my session was going average at best. The crowd was a heavy, tide coming in and sets on the inconsistent side. As soon as I stuck that air revo I just began getting sick wave after sick wave. I did not call box any but got at least ten to the highway. I was on. I can not remember the last time I put on a backside attack that flawless in the Cove. I stuck a solid ten foot long by three feet high gap air. All my turns were super crisp, vertical and tail free when applicable. I did not waste any section or misread a thing. Every walk back up people were patting me on the back. Also I ran into this videographer who has like five years of footage of me from Rincon and Malibu and I know he has some great stuff. When I was a pro he wanted a ton of money for it, but now that I am no body is willing to let it go for significantly less. I think his clips combined with the really good ones from my most recent video featured here in the “Something Old That Made Something New” blog might make a really sick record of how I surfed in my prime.
3/28/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
I woke up and checked the buoys and the NW had arrived. I trucked it to Rincon. At first it was a bit small with the drained out low tide, but I know with the swell that the push was going to be good. Minus a bit of funk and crumble from the south wind it looked more then fun and did I mention there were only ten guys out in the cove. That was the case the entire session. I ended up getting a bunch of good waves. I was pushing my limits on the wave a bit harder then usual so I fell a bit more then I would have liked, but like I always say you don’t get better if you don’t push yourself. If you not falling then your not progressing.
3/27/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 14
I guess summertime is right around the corner if I am back a river mouth. One thing I will say is at the moment with the mouth open the sand is beginning to fill in nicely since being ruined from the dredging. New Jetty on the other hand my home break away from home is still a terrible deep hole. There was some minor south on the buoy and for what ever reason I felt motivated to surf. I love driving over an hour and half combined trip to surf for an hour. I need to really get over my laziness and start waking up earlier. It was small but clean and fun enough looking. I pulled into the back lot or the Santa Barbara lot cause that is where we all park when surfing there when the Knoll lot is full of Venturans. Yadin Nicol and Tom Curren’s kids pulled up next to me. I though Yadin would have stayed in Oz for till after Bells. There were plenty of peaks and I found a fun one to myself. I was on again opening with a really deep tube. Followed that up with a clean high fs ally-oop and then just missed an fs air reverse by not quite riding the rotation out with the white water.
3/26/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Today was the first time I have ever surfed every single section of Rincon in one session. I also for the small size managed to get rather beat up by the waves. I started up at Rincon left thanks to the swell being WSW reading 263 degrees 4ft at 11 seconds. I mean when the swell is like that it pretty much comes straight into the point. The left was solid and the crowd only about seven. I got two really nice tubes and a few sick hits up there. Then I hurt my wrist in an attempt to bring down a sizable FS air reverse and then crunched my back a bit trying to make this deep tube that got away from me. The tide began turning off the left so I surfed my way over to Indicator where I managed to pick off a few really fun rights, but ended up eating shit really hard going over the falls on a head high one that doubled up on me. I got worked on that one. I missed a solid BS full rotation air reverse coming unglued on the landing. Then I got a few in the river mouth that were average. I snagged one coming into high cove that once again I blew another near full rotation where I landed 325 in stead of 360 and the inertia of landing like that threw me off. When I came up this guy on the beach had his arms in the air like “what you did not stick it” and I looked back and gave him the same gesture of WTF that was three missed attempts in one day for me. I have not even been going for those lately so I guess it is cool to even come close. I got a wide swinger in the cove that I went left on and stuck a small ally-oop. Finally I grabbed a few more to the beach through the cove and called it a day. I must say it was a rather fun day of surfing.
3/26/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
I was planning on going to Rincon to take advantage of the incoming tide and waning wind swell. As I was coming over the hill at Summerland I did the look back of death at Sharks and there were definitely some waist high waves coming in and I could just spy out some peaks at Hammonds. I did the loop around and heading to Hammonds and it was totally solid for sure, chest high, a little peaky, semi clean with a light crowd. With gas prices where they are today I am not about to do any extra driving if I don’t have to. I paddled out and snagged a few good ones although it was a bit on the weaker side and the waves had this strange kink in them that made doing a solid bottom turn into the first section a near impossibility. I was a bit slow as well after going nuts at the Wild Cat with my new roommate Dan. We had fucking ball and it was a really decent crowd out. I know I put down a few too many. Half way through the session I flared up and stuck a huge backside air to fakie. Almost pulled a full rotation bs air reverse that was giant, landed a strange lay back tail flare front side, and just had a few really nice turns. Then the wind picked up a bit more and the tide began to drop causing the kelp to become a nuisance. I will take it though.
3/25/12 No Surfing: 3-5ft
Alright there really was not much excuse to not surf today besides just plan laziness. I did not drink the night before and got a rather good sleep except for and over acting amount of dreams that I have been having lately. My recollection of them all is rather hazy, but there has been so many ones that have just been plain confusing and even at times disturbing. I woke up at 8am and it was raining and the wind was south east. That is crap for all the points up here, but offshore in Ventura. I was feeling very lethargic and decided to sleep until 11am instead. I really need to get out of this funk.
3/24/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
Swell was way down today and I had to get into work a bit early to help out with some extra stuff. Last night was an odd night at the bar and I must say my emotions were not helping. I don’t know, I just cant do the bar thing anymore but it is not like I have any better options out there at the moment. I met this guy who’s name also happened to be Chris. As it turned out he had recently separated from his wife of four years cause he found out she was cheating on him for over a year. I really felt for the guy. We exchanged stories as is common place among those in our situation. Its funny once your heart soul has been crushed to the point mine has and others like myself it becomes a brotherhood. Its funny cause he was still in the blaming himself stage and I remember that stage so well. He was saying “I could have been a better husband”, etc. I told him to stop that talk right now and that it was not his fault. God I blamed myself for soo long after. The worst part is I wish I could have told him things got easier, but in all truth I still way too much over the whole incident. Then near the end of the night Vespera showed up. I had been thinking about her all night and should have called her in the first place. I think I may have come off a little cold to her, but I think I was a bit pissed she did not let me know she as going out. I need to just man up and level with her on how I feel about here. I am over this ambiguous situation we are currently in.
3/23/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Report was not selling it for and the grey, cold, misty conditions were not either. Gas being as expensive as it is I really cannot justify spending $5 to go surf shitty Ventura harbor. I don’t mind if it is going to be fun, but for windy closed out crap I am going to keep my money and put it toward something important like alcohol. I felt marginally better today. Till I found out my new roommate borrowed my expensive Guess pea coat with out asking. This is a key part of my outfit for going out since I walk and it is the most stylish warm piece of clothing I own. I was really angry, but have calmed down since. I dont think he understands what a man’s closet means to him. The guy from what I have seen thus far has not threads. I am going to write a blog about this.
3/22/12 PM Session: 1-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 33
I forgot just how bad of a wave Mesa Lane is. I had not surfed the place in a year and there was minimal swell running. It was a really nice afternoon and I really wanted to wash off my work day with a surf. I charged down the steps to the empty minuscule line up. Immediately I realized it was to be a full on grovel session. After yesterday I was just happy to get wet and paddle around. Its really funny the more I look good on paper, good job, nice apartment, a plan, my shit seems perfectly together, the more I am falling apart mentally. Something needs to give soon or it may be the end of me.
3/21/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I had bad day today. I don’t really understand why but I woke up to go to class at 7am and just got more and more depressed as the day went on. I ate a bowl of cereal and still just wanted to curl up in a ball on the couch. I fought off that urge and thought I would attempt a surf as there was still some minimal south and NW in the water. I got to River Mouth and it looked like shit and everyone who was leaving said the water was like in the high 40’s. That was it for me at that point the couch looked very inviting. I got home through my leopard comforter over my head and did not come out till my 2:30 class. After class I went for an introspective beach walk in a vain attempt to pacify myself. Instead I became more the depressed. When I got home I sat in the dark, ate my dinner, drank a bottle of Pinot Grigio while reading old blogs from a year ago today. I think you can guess what I was reading about. Mother fucking pathetic.
3/20/12 No Surfing: 2-4ft
I woke up and found myself completely unmotivated to go surf. I knew all the points were going to suck and I just did not care enough to go surf the beaches. Instead I pulled the covers over my head and slept till 11, then went to work. I must say I believe a new bout of depression is on its way back into my life. There is no logical reason for it, but I can see the ship on the horizon as it nears port. Good thing I have plenty of alcohol in my possession to help weather the storm.
3/19/12 PM Session: 2-4+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 25
“Where is Dane Renyolds?” I pulled up to Emma Wood at around 5pm hung over as fuck from a very, very heavy night of drinking at the Kitty. I don’t even know how I got that bad, well I do, but still it was very unexpected. Luckily my friend Vespera dragged my drunk and most likely embarrassing ass back to her house and we passed 0ut. Guess I did not wake up till nearly one and it was even later before motivating myself to get up. I completely missed my 1:30 class and found myself on the walk of shame at around 3pm. Oh yeah things are really coming around me in life. I always have been my own worst enemy. Part of me wanted to go back to sleep for the remainder of the day, but the tiny bit of go getter left in me forced a surf. Rincon was small and everything past poor as well. So there I found myself at Emma Wood looking at an empty line up and mid tide suck out bowls. I was stoked on it although hurting rather bad. It took me like thirty minutes to get my suit on. There was this one dude out absolutely killing it. I get out there and it is this super stoked sponsored Japanese guy. We shared some waves and some conversation and finally he said it “Where is Dane Renyolds, I really want to see him surf”. I told him he was in the right place if Dane was in town. In my own right I had a few sick tubes and stuck a few good bs reos. Man I wish surfing was still all I needed out of life to fell satisfied.
3/18/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Sand Spit
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 6
Six waves in an hour seems pathetic for a guy like myself. When you consider snagging six waves in an hour at one of the most competitive waves in the world on the weekend with a solid crowd, terrible current and a steadily dropping tide I was a mother fucking hustler. I woke up and it was freezing out. There was snow in the mountains for Pete’s sake. I was not even thinking about going surfing. Then I looked out my kitchen window and saw that the bounce back from the harbor break wall was intense. This means one thing, Sand Spit. I bolted out of the house, tore on my suit and ran all the way to the spot. I never run to surf anymore. For whatever reason whenever Sand Spit breaks I feel like a grom again and am that pumped to hit it up. Crowd was heavy, but I know how to hustle and managed to get six really sick ones, on overhead bomb that I got shacked twice on. Oh yeah, bout time I got a good surf there this year!
3/17/12 No Surfing: 3-4+ft and stormy
Last night I went to the cat and came home with a guest of the female persuasion. Nothing new, one of my regulars. The weather was shit, windy and rainy and the swell had not begun to show thus I decided to spend the morning in bed. The heart break as I knew by the time low tide came around Sand Bar, Sharks and El Cap would be decent. Of course I had to work the entire day. Well spring break was nice while it lasted.
3/16/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 41
Fruit Stands? WTF! is it summertime already. With the south swell still running and little to no NW in the water I called up my boy Ryan down in Ventura and we met for a surf. After about an hour worth of recon we found ourselves making the gamble at Fruit Stands. Fruit Stands is one of those waves that you have to hike about a half mile to get to so once you take that on your committed. We got to the beach and thanks to winter rains had to wade through a cesspool of excess river water between the beach and the dunes. In summertime there is usually a dry trail across. At first it was not very appetizing. With no human scale minus the oil drill workers we were the only ones there and it looked only to be about waist to stomach high and side shore/offshore conditions. We paddled anyway and as it turns out it was more like in the chest to head range and bowly as hell. I ended up getting a handful of really fun barrels. I missed every air I went for unfortunately. I am going to blame my poor performance on the fact that the center bar of my tail pad was flopping around the whole session. The water was astonishingly crystal clear despite the fact that the beach there is lined with oil pumps and a power plant. Minus the cold and the back drop it reminded me of surfing the east side of Oahu in Hawaii when the North Shore is too big to surf. One of the greatest things in surfing is enjoying really fun waves with just a friend of yours. That is exactly what went down.
3/15/12 AM Session: 3-5ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
The great late season run at Rincon finally ended. We all knew it would not last forever. Luckily there was still a bit of NW energy out there and a solid early season south swell. With light winds and a steadily dropping tide all signs pointed to Hollywood. I trucked it down there and sure enough there were some fun little bowls coming in. Two guys were out each on his own peak and there were still plenty of other peaks for me. It looked a little weak, but I was already there and I hate driving away from the potential for fun surf. It was breaking super far out with very little to scale it on. I got out there and it was solid head high plus and totally killable. I was surfing amazing. I stuck a few ally oops, a crazy full rotation backside air reverse, a handful of various other airs and nailed some really good frontside turns. Overall it was a sick little session.
3/14/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 14
Two double sessions in a row. Whats up? Chris Lisanti putting in some water time that is what. The buoys picked up a bit and I got out of class early for a change. With nothing else to really do I decided, why not go back to the ‘Con. Right now there is so much extra sand in the cove that high tide has actually been very doable in there. When I first got down to the point I was less then enthused with the meager mushy offerings and over crowded situation. I went for a sea glass excursion which was very fruitful by the way. By the time I was done the crowd dropped by more then half and the tide change was picking things up. Its a good thing I stuck around cause I ended up getting a few really incredible waves. One in particular I hit a thirty yard gap air sticking it right on the other side of the section, then tucked into a little tube, came out and hit it three times verticle, followed by two solid round house rebounds and ending with a closeout air reverse. Wish I had that video clip, fuck it I got it all on tape in my head. That is at least till I kill those brain cells the next time I get black out drunk.
3/14/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Sometimes Rincon is just perfect, light crowd nice lines, barrels. For about a solid hour that is exactly what was going down in the cove. I had expected the surf to drop, but instead was faced with chest to head high drainers running down the cove. I was kicking myself for having to go get bagels at this little bakery up on the Mesa. But I was craving them. They make this cranberry orange bagel that is just to die for. I had to have one. Between that, class, a brief trip to the bank I did not get to Rincon till nearly 10:30. While we are on the bank subject. The swines are going to start charging me for my checking account so I need to once again switch banks. The only reason I go the branch I do is because there is this rather attractive teller there I have been flirting with for the last year or so. I guess I am going to have to bite the bullet and ask her out now. Rincon was sooo much fun. I can not remember the last time I felt so good out there on such good waves. I called boxed one that I easily hit straight up and down ten times, each turn in just the most critical of spots. Minus the cold water it was as good as it got. Then it got really crowded out of no where and the waves got strange with the tide change. By then I was over it anyway.
3/13/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
A double fucking session, what? Are you kidding me. I actually found the motivation to surf twice today. Amazing. The second session was cold, windy, crowded and for the most part lack luster. I did manage to stick a solid backside air reverse followed by two really nice big turns. Ok, so I definitely got mine. Lindsay cold and over it got one good one through the cove and called it a day. I on the other hand ended up surfing another hour and half. The crowd dropped and the swell picked up for about 45 minutes, then I suffered from a case of last wave syndrome for the rest of the time. Still any day at Rincon is still better then a decent day at most surf spots.
3/13/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Wow a Chris Lisanti 20. That has not happened for as long as I can remember. If your lost I once figured out that twenty good waves in a surf session is usually the maximum a surfer can surf at his peak ability before fatigue sets in. Now of course at beach breaks where the waves are shorter and more consistent this number can be greatly proceeded as is evident if you check my stats. An Emma Wood session for example where the waves are fairly, short, very consistent and easily accessible I will easily do anywhere from thirty to forty waves in an un-timed session. What I mean by un-timed a session where I do not have to get out because of a prior engagement such as work or school. Whenever it is slow or crowded or inconsistent and I have the ability to surf for an indefinite amount of time I always shoot for around twenty waves before calling it a day. Today was a bit inconsistent and crowded for what was coming in making stacking a large number of waves difficult to say the least. Conditions were clean and although a little sectiony very fun. I was bit frothy and very scrappy. I was not surfing quite as good as yesterday, borderline spastic. These two complete barneys who had to be fresh out of the valley packed next to me, suited up, pulled there kook Chinese pop out long boards and made sure to strap their Go Pro cameras to their heads. Fucking Koooooks. One of these idiots decides to burn me while I am cruising from deep high cove on a heavy one. I was not about to let this jack ass take what turned out to be one of my best waves from me. I hit the gas and it was close but passed him just brushing the nose of his board with my thigh. I hope he got the footage of my ass in his face as I sped by him and closed the section out on him. I should have got his email and he could have sent me the footy of it. I got three more turns in then ended with a huge section air. Good times, can’t wait to go back for more this evening. Look for a rant blog soon on idiots and their Go Pros.
3/12/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 14
See Old Habits Die Hard: Spring Break Day 3 blog.
3/11/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
When you have not surfed anything but really fun points for the last two months it is really hard to get motivated to drive 45 minutes, spent $5 in gas to go surfed dirty closed out New Jetty. I was hard up for a surf and there was some steep NW wind swell running. Sure enough I got down there and it was closed out, windy and the water was fucking freezing. For what was coming in the crowd a little bit much. I forced myself to paddle. The session was marginal at best although I did manage to surf very well. As Mauriello puts it I own windy closed out terrible conditions. Its true anytime I showed up to a contest with those conditions I always thrived. So be it that does not mean I like surfing it.
3/10/12 No Surfing: Flat
That is right the report for Cstreet said flat. It looked pretty fucking small. So I went on a hike instead. You can read about that in the blog Lisanti Gone Wild: Spring Break Day 1 . I did check Mesa Lane before dark and there was some waist high local wind swell rolling in. I could have groveled if I really wanted to. I am going to surf tomorrow. I mean it this time. On other news no good deed goes unpunished. I decided to send flowers to the woman I spoke about a few entries ago here for her birthday. I was hoping it might help rectify our ambiguous situation. Unfortunately I guess it did but in an adverse way. She basically blew me off. I never sent ladies flowers till recent years not believing in the gesture. Then I try and be romantic and so far each separate flower instance I have gotten burned. What is up with you women out there? If you want an asshole who treats you poorly so be it, but it is not going to be me. When you want a gentleman that will show a world you never believed could exist let me know. Till then I am done with flowers!
3/9/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
What is this turning into the east coast? Meanwhile they have been scoring it. I mean seriously I cant remember the last time I have seen the buoy’s this small. I actually got my ass out of bed early for a change and went for a beach walk/rock stacking escapade with Lindsay and her dog. It was a beautiful morning with great weather and just a treat to be out in the sun. I always enjoy playing with other people’s dogs. I have all the fun but none of the responsibility. Now I am on Spring Break bitches so suck on that. Tits!
3/8/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I really need to get motivated and try and go grovel again. It is just hard to work up the motivation to drive and surf really bad waves. Not to mention I have been having some real allergy trouble as of late causing me to feel congested, tired and run down, either that or I am dying from some terminal illness. If I dont make it Alfie gets every thing. I think I will try and wake up tomorrow morning and go for a surf no matter what.
3/7/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I could have went south after class and found something to grovel, but Wednesday has become my errand day and there was plenty that needed doing. For starters I had a hair appointment since it has been getting in my eyes as of late. I love my hair dresser. She is just about the most perfect women I have ever met. She is too good for me. I am sure she would go out with me too, maybe even fall for me. Ultimately I would just break her heart and make her miserable or the other way around. For the moment I am going to leave that alone. Then I rolled to Home Depot to buy a new transition piece for the kitchen thanks to Alfie graciously spilling water all over the kitchen floor and warping half of it ultimately breaking the transition. I have been to Home Depot way too many times this year. I should get a fucking job there. I went to the store and got all the ingredients for the grand opening dinner. Arranged a little something for the woman I have been mentioning. The dinner went down with good food. Of course as usual the majority of the guests dogged me. Who in their right mind would turn down a free meal cooked by a really good chef? Whatever it was more food for us. All in all I would say it was a splendid evening.
3/6/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
Heavy winds and shit for waves, not to mention bad allergies I have never experienced here before kept me under the covers and out of the water. To revisit my entry on the 4th I have decided after three days of hard thought to go for it. Last night I watched “When Harry Met Sally” for like umpteenth time. I am sucker for a good romance. Being that fool I am going to put in motion an attempt to move thinks into a more involved phase. Its all going down this weekend so stay tuned for more. I may attempt a grovel session tomorrow.
3/5/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
Holy hangover batman. My boy Ray was in town and whenever he comes up from LA on a Sunday it is sure to be a shit show. I met up with him and Vespera at her little cottage. We downed some shots and then headed over to the cat. Sunday is the best night of the week there and we made the best of it. One of my co-workers, Shantelle, the new catering manager at Westmont came out and I really think she had a good time. The four of us rolled back to the palace where I drunk cooked an Italian pasta chicken dish. After three seriously heavy party nights my liver is finally kicking my ass today. The buoys are looking on the small side and with gas being so high I am really not all that motivated to go surf bad waves and pay like six bucks a session. I may try and surf before work tomorrow.
3/4/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
No surf again! The forecast is looking very grim. It was fine I had another crazy late night courtesy of the Wild Cat and some friends. New things maybe unfolding in my life I am not sure at the moment. While I was waiting on an obnoxious line outside the kitty I ran into a friend of mine who I was earlier in the year somewhat into. Then certain situations arose that had me rethink pursuing said feelings. For one I know I need to really ease into anything even close to romantic. Second I am still a bit messed up on the Ade’s situation, who will fall into this plot in a moment. Third do I really want to get involved with another “Bar Girl”. These thoughts have been on my mind for weeks now. Everyone knows how much I love to stew on things. So lets start with the back of the list. She may be a “bar girl”, but am I not a bar guy? Double standards suck and I am sorry I let one even cross my judgement of another. I saw Adrienne at the cat on the night in question. Now I wanted to go up to talk with her, but I was with this other woman and to be honest I was having a good time. She looked fabulous, I looked fabulous. We drank, danced socialized all the while loving every minute of the party. Ade’s on the other hand looked completely out of pace. Fuck man she had on flats, the same tired old jeans she wore when we were together and a spaghetti strap top. That is an outfit one wears to a casual lunch with friends, but not at the club on a Saturday night! Our paths crossed twice that night. I don’t know whether she noticed me or not. We did not interact and I really did not care either way. Lastly I see no reason why we can’t have fun her and I. Test the waters so to speak. All I know is seeing her last night after not seeing her for around two weeks made me realize that I need to take my own advice to myself and be proactive.
3/3/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
The surf was rather bad today and with the forecast it seems like it is going to be a rather lackluster week for the ocean. Last night I rolled to the Kitty solo. At the moment I have no drinking partners with the boys gone, but luckily at the Wild Cat there are plenty of people to drink with. I ended up meeting this crazy chick and bringing her back to my apartment to smoke some hash. Alcohol and weed don’t mix with me and I ended up passing out. Its too bad too cause I thought she was pretty chill. I gave her my phone number and would be stoked to see her again, but I doubt I she will call me. I did not get her number cause the touch screen on my phone has been being a pain in the ass lately. I was going to chill in tonight but with no waves tomorrow I might as well go out.
3/2/12 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Woody
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Talk about terrible surfing conditions. Maybe this new surf as much as possible proclamation I made is not such a good idea after all. I was really banking on Rincon still having a fun wave, but it was meager and inconsistent. I rolled to Emma which was also meager, windy, broken up, and a strong current. I saw a couple of double ups that had me thinking it was worth a paddle. I had to kill an hour before work anyhow. It was as bad as it looked although I did manage to snag a really solid frontside tube. The boys got out of here just in time. Either that or they were my good luck charms.
3/1/12 PM Session: 1-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Well I am happy to say that I started off March on the right foot both sober and surfing. I was going to go out and rage tonight but after doing my laundry and an exhausting day of work plus surfing I am tuckered out and ready to turn in. Rincon was far from good but ride able. The crowd was a little much for what was on offer, the waves a bit smaller and inconsistent then I would have liked and the lines all broken up with the many different wind swells. That being said I still found plenty of fun rides.
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the answer to where was dane=dunedin, South Island NZ with Craig Anderson and Dion Agius. First tom curren now dane, it is like the pro’s are stalking me via the blog.
seriously, so you are on the south island now?
Hey man, how are you?
Hope the surf is treating you well!
Its been a really good late season here so I cant complain at all. Weather has been alright although not the ultra sunny we are used to here in SB.
Sounds nice. Super jealous! I haven’t been in the water in months and its killing me. Hoping to remedy that here shortly, though.
One of these days I’ll make it up to SB. =)
You should its a paradise in its own right here. Plus Im sure you will get a rather good blog out of it.
Well, once I get back from Fiji, I’ll see what I can do. I would love to make my way up there. But you’d have to recommend the kiddy-waves for me. It’s been so long I’m pretty sure I’ve forgotten how to paddle out.
Fiji, wow, I was suppose to go there years ago when I was still a pro, but missed out cause I spent to much time in oz, We have plenty of amazing user friendly waves here in sb that you would have a ball in. It would be a bit better then your trestles experience I think.
To answer the question of how I knew dane was there, one of the solscape employees went to visit his cousin in Dunedin and he ran into Dane with Craig Anderson and Dion Agius while there. The pictures don’t lie.