April 2019 Surf Sessions
4-30-19 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 64
The reality of living in an area where south swells get shadowed is while the rest of California is getting fun surf I am groveling. I had actually hoped there would have been a bit more surf today. According to the buoys there should have been at least a few chest high waves coming through. Of course since I got up early the wind decided to get on it at 9 am trashing everything. I desperation paddled Emma with seven other guys and it was about as terrible as it can be out there. The rest of my day was spent prepping for this Saturday where we have three events and one on Sunday. Its going to be crazy!!!
4-29-19 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 64
Finally there was a few minor south swells showing on the channel buoys. There was enough to get me stoked to make the drive. I met Ryan at the Harbor where we were rather let down at the knee to waist high lack luster corners rolling in. South was the call, but I wasn’t too eager to make the drive to LA. The cams down there just weren’t quite as solid as I like. On the way down I saw a wave break just at the entrance to Emma Wood, a south swell spot that is one of my favorites, though it rarely works. I figured I rule that out and then the point and if all else failed head to LA since it was a day off for me. When I pulled up I saw a waist to chest high three wave set break with no one on it and very good shape. Then I saw another waist high set that looked fun as well. That was all I needed to make the paddled. I grabbed my fish since it was so soft and ran down the beach. The good sets were few and far between. The peak was way more shifty then I had thought, coupled with a draining tide and the usual rip that forms out there finding good waves was a struggle. The wind steadily peaked up out of the NW for the duration of my surf till it was absolutely trash. I got a few alright ones, but I think I should have just went to LA or Jalama.
4-28-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
More flaness was the word today. I had hoped that some front runners from this new south swell that is suppose to fill in over the next few days would have showed, but they didn’t and with gas at four bucks a gallon I was not about to blow my money on some shit conditions.
4-27-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
The beginning of the first flat spell in over a month finally has come upon us. After yesterday’s grovel I was not about to go out of my way for more ankle slappers. Instead I took my chick up to the valley for a museum gallery opening then dinner. Looks like some meager conditions the next few days. Tis the season.
4-26-19 PM Session: 1-2 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 56
Some days I should learn to just trust my better judgement and not waste my gas and my time. Instead I fought my way through Friday rush hour traffic to grovel barely knee to thigh high Emma Wood. Actually when I first pulled up it looked tiny but rip-able. The wind was light south west and there were some south bowls coming through with the incoming tide. In the hopes that it might get better I paddled. Shortly after the wind took a turn from the NW and steadily increased till it absolutely trashed the meager offerings. I did my twenty waves and called it. Not a moment too soon either for on the way back to my car I passed a six pack of kooks ready to “rip”. At least when I got home the contest was on and the waves still macking. When all was said and done I managed to get first in the women’s and 2nd in the men’s for my fantasy league. Alright! God I have become old and utterly pathetic.
4-25-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 64
I had to get down to Ventura, swell regardless this morning to meet a customer to give him his custom Clarks Surfboard. Dude was headed down to El Salvador for a bit and was in dire need of his brand new Anvil model for maximum ripping potential. I had a look at Ventura Harbor since I was right there and there were some decent SW/WNW combo lines coming through with fairly clean conditions. New Jetty looked the best, but as per usual was packed it young ripper and I was just not in the mood for that kind of froth. I saw a few peaks down by the River Mouth bar. I have not really ran down there to assess the quality of the bars for over a month. There is sand out there, but there are also lots of holes and big rips. As a matter of fact staying on the outer bars are near to impossible. I wasted the first half of my session being constantly out of position, while paddling to no avail. Then I drifted inside, which was also hard to sit thanks to all the rips where I lucked into a few. It’s definitely a lot of work out there for very limited return at the moment. Thanks impart of two separate accidents on the 101 I was a half hour late to work. These days I feel like I am constantly stuck in traffic on the freeway. What is this place turning into LA? I had a gig at the Impact hub for the “Coastal Housing Commission”, which is basically a bunch of rich people patting themselves on the back for attempting to create “affordable housing” for low income residents of Santa Barbara. That’s basically anyone who makes under 100K a year in this town. Whatever, at least I got paid off it so that I can sign the check right over to my land lord. After the job I went home and was treated to one of the most exciting days of competition out a Bells Beach I have ever had the privilege to watch. There had to be some 25 foot clean up sets. It was fun to watch the pros earn their living for a change.
4-24-19 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Today was the first day in three weeks where there wasn’t a wave worth surfing. It actually worked out since I had a twelve hour day at work with a very high profile evening gig where one of my patrons was knighted by the King of Spain through done through an ambassador.
4-23-19 AM Session: 2-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
There was just a little bit of combo swell left in the Water. Coupled with a negative tide I opted for The Harbor figuring it was my best bet for any size. New Jetty had a junky waist plus left coming in off the rocks. It was a little soft but nothing my fish couldn’t make fun. Only one other guy was out, a rarity for that place. I made the most of the small conditions and it was enough to carry me through my ten hour work day. Somehow I didn’t see a shut screen door at the job I was working and accidentally walked right through it. Besides that everything went off well.
4-22-19 AM Session: 2-3ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 45 min
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 44
There was some steep NW swell in the water that just screamed Strand. Unfortunately I had to work at 11 making a surf there an impossibility. Instead I ended up at windswelly Pitas. I frothed the shit out of the meager offerings then went to work. That’s all I have to say about that.
4-21-19 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 78
There was some really steep, solid wind swell on the buoys. With light onshore winds down south I headed straight for Strand. As soon as I came up to the way to the beach the wind was rather stiff onshore. This left the Ship all torn up. Normally I would have just bailed but my chick wanted to use the rest room so we pulled up to the North End. I had a look and though windy it was a tad bit more organized with chest plus sets and only three guys out. Considering it was really small down to Emma Wood I decided to just cut my losses and paddle. There is nothing I hate more then spending hours driving around looking for better bad surf. I paddled and made the most of the cold wind blown conditions. It was worthy of a twenty wave scramble that is for sure. On the way home even though the buoys were not indicating it there was solid waves filling at Pitas, Little Rincon and Rincon. Go figure.
4-20-19 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 78
I braved the rain and the cold to get a few waves this morning. I got to the Harbor and there were a few decent south peaks though a bit on the crowded side for what was coming in. There were also plenty of walled sets. I thought I’d gamble a look at Strand. I got there an hour late as the wind has just come up and tide gotten fat. If I had lived there I would have scored a few early. With the wind up I ran a few errands before heading to Emma where I desperation paddled some really deplorable conditions. It was like a regular day in Florida out there except the water was cold. I did my twenty and got the fuck out of there. Later I gave my lady some stick driving lessons and then worked in my garden.
4-19-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 56
The buoys were still showing an ample amount of WNW swell so I decided to head to Rincon before work for a quickie. There were some waist plus lines coming through a little buried in the tide. The Cove looked better then up top. Had the crowd been half of what was there I would have rode my fish, but instead I cruised to Emma. It was rather small and lack luster there as well. Only five guys were out and it looked rip-able enough for the little bit of time I had allotted. I jumped in and the water was freezing. It had to be at least five degrees colder then last night. It didn’t help that it was all grey and damp out either. Apparently Emma Wood was the place to be the past few mornings. That was the consensus I got from everyone that was out. After about twenty five minutes the line up got mobbed with a group of Ventura rippers, Hayes being among them. This would have been fine except the ocean decided to go really lully leaving many surfers with very few waves to be ridden. I got a few more and left. As I was changing two separate groups of five packs showed up ready to rip. Tragedy of the commons. On the way into work my boss called to let me know that he had decided that we were not going to start the prep for next week till Monday. Thanks for the notice, I would have picked a better place to surf. Oh well.
4-18-19 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 78
Being graced with the day off I decided to wait for the tide drop a bit mid day. Winds were predicted to stray light and there was a healthy amount of combo swell in the water. Initially I figured on just surfing the one of the points, but on the way down everything looked rather small. With the wind still very light Bizarro and I headed to Strand. Though far from all time there were some chest plus bowls rolling in through the South Bowl with no one out. With few options left I decided to just paddle and make the most of what was on offer. As it turned out the waves were super fun with ramps everywhere. No one was out or came out for the duration of my surf. The last half hour of the surf the wind came up just enough out of the NW to ruin it. That was fine cause I had already got mine anyway.
4-17-19 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 44
I had a plated lunch in Montecito for 130 heads. After I headed to surf. The tide was a negative one leaving most breaks super drained. Rincon was small and quality average. I had a feeling that Pitas might be fun and headed there. It was solid chest plus with a very light crowd. The waves were breaking top to bottom so I grabbed my short board. As soon as I hit the water the wind picked up pretty good out of the NW. It didn’t take long before the top was trashed. Luckily there was enough wrap to make the Faria section fun. Joined by bud Robbies we traded fun rights to ourselves for two hours. I’ll take it.
4-16-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 46
The option to either work early or surf early was on my plate. Considering the fat morning tide I opted for the afternoon. This turned out to be a rather smart option for my work day considering that I had way more dumped on me then I expected. On the surf front I got screwed by the relentless south west winds. Tanks would have been the best bet, but Surf Happens decided to crowd the place with THREE vans full of kids. That is a peak where four guys is a crowd. I had a look at Pitas. There was one guy on it and conditions were side shore looking some what manageable. I paddled and it was super wind swelly with wave after wave some on top of each other. It looked like something from the Great Lakes. I did my best to find a few rides.
4-15-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 44
I was all set for a productive day off when my low tire pressure light came on. I had another flat on the same side as yesterday. Two flats in two days, WTF! Instead of getting to surf I found myself at the mercy of a tire shop. For three hours that’s were I sat watching as the wind came up. $200 later I was back on the road. Considering the wind I headed to the points. I started at Pitas. The tide was really low. I ended up settling on Rincon. The crowd was light and there was a waist plus wave coming through. I grabbed my fish and headed up top. I was completely out of rhythm. All my rotations were all over the place. Then as the tide began to come back in and some solid sets also showed. I soon found myself a bit under gunned. I made it into the Cove just as a really good set was coming through. The first two I let go. The third one had a nice long line and appeared to be a grower. I stroked into on my little 5’3 Clark’s Surfboards Pop Fizz and banged out a few turns. Then the wave hit the sand bar and just sucked up allowing me to slide into the tube. At this point I was stretched nose to tail as to not lose my edge. Some how I came out and knocked down a few more turns to the Freeway. If you don’t quit on a ride like that you’d have to be nuts.
4-14-19 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 78
I woke up and it was foggy. The first signs of spring. The buoys still showed plenty steep NW swell thus I headed back to Strand with my girl. Of course on the way down my front passenger side tire had a low air pressure message. I stopped and filled it with air then continued on to the Strand. The Ship was a bit junky. Gordon was just getting out and definitely didn’t sell it. Ryan was also out there struggling. After a bit of deliberation it seemed pertinent that it may be the best option so I paddled. I grabbed my small wave shortboard and paddled the south bowl. Between the low tide rips and the slight chop it made catching and even riding waves very challenging. On the sets I was with out a doubt under gunned. There were some cherry air sections and the onshore wind made it perfect for big rotations. I must have boosted two dozen different airs and only brought down on straight air. It was far from epic but I had fun. On the way to get lunch I had a blow out on that front passenger tire. Luckily Big Brand Tire was open till four and nice enough to accommodate us other wise I would have had to spend the night in Ventura. On the bright side we found a really good Mexican spot on Main just next to Big Brand called Evita’s Mexican Cafe. I think I have a new favorite. They are definitely worth a stop if you’re in the area.
4-13-19 PM Session: 4-7+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 33
Miles Driven: 78
It turned out that my last food drop of the day happened to be only a block from my apartment. I stopped home briefly to change and got word that Strand was solid and still clean. I grabbed Bizarro and we cruised to the Ship where it was well over head. On the bombs I found myself very under gunned. Though plenty of size it was very flat on the face and many died out. That being said there were no more then ten of us out there and it felt good to drop into some over head bombs. I love the Strand and will live there soon.
4-12-19 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
I had double header today. There was prep in the morning for a wedding tasting and a bridal shower. In the evening I competed in the Santa Barbara Cooking up Dreams Awards: Everything close to home was super small and I didnt have to time to explore. The event went well and everyone loved the abalone I served up. I guess they didnt love it enough since I lost. Oh well.
4-11-19 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 30
Talk about a desperation paddle. I had to reach down really deep inside to find to motivation to paddle the absolute trash that was afront at Rincon. A little voice inside my head echoed an age old mantra “No off days” With that in mind I waxed up my fish and paddled. I did teo drifts from Indicator to Freeway grabbing whatever I could manage to ride. Just another day of exercise.
4-10-19 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 34
Miles Driven: 56
Just another afternoon at Rincon. Today was way underwhelming after yesterday, as days that follow epic days usually are. There was still some waist plus lines coming through. Most of the energy was focused in the Rivermouth. Killian had just pulled up in the lot with a half dozen groms , which was all the motivation I needed to have a look elsewhere. My perusal down to Emma Wood panned our fruitless abs I found myself pulling my grovel fish and paddling Rincon. It was way weaker then it looked and the wind kept swirling all over the place. I think the lefts might have been better then the rights. Still I made the most of it and at the very least got some exercise.
4-9-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 34
Miles Driven: 30
OFFSHORE WINDS AT RINCON!!!! There are lots of points out there that blow offshore on the regular. Rincon isn’t one of them. Glassy, yes, side shore, sure but offshore, never. It was about chest plus, with nice clean lines and empty. It looked a tad bit on the weak side, nothing my epoxy Fly Guy fish from Clark’s Surfboards couldn’t handle. I ran back up the path and tore on my wettie. I started in the Cove and just stroked into good one after good one. There were lots of weak ones so I had to be selective. With only ten guys out I had that luxury. Sadly the barrels weren’t really hallow enough to properly pull into backside. My last time through I went up top on a tube hunt. I got a few views through the Rivermouth albeit all unsuccessful. By the time I got my last wave through the Cove to the Freeway my legs hurt so bad I couldn’t even consider another go around. I stood there at the bottom of the point and just watched perfect empty line after perfect empty line come through. Man I wish I had bionic legs or was ten years younger. At my age knowing when to quite so I’ll be able to surf then next day is invaluable. What a wonderful afternoon of surfing.
4-8-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hr
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 78
My one week of corporate lunch hell began today though it sort of had become second nature at this point. I got word the North Strand was fun towards the end of my work day and the winds looked light on the Ventura Point cam. I headed straight there only to find that despite plenty of swell the wind was howling on shore trashing it. I decided to stop by the shaping bay to fill out all the proper paperwork for my Glasser. After which I headed to Rincon, pulled my fish and paddled. There was a bit of strange south funk on it, but with low tide the cove had clean enough lines with a very light crowd. I paddled and lucked into a few really good ones. As a matter of fact the first hour was really fun. Then as the tide filled in the wind came out of the south more making it nearly impossible to find a good one. Rather then call it a day I beat my head against the wall for another hour till dark.
4-7-19 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hobson’s
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 41
It was Gabe’s last morning in town and due to my work schedule we had yet to get a surf together. I had work at noon leaving us a window early. There was some new west north west in the water. We had a look at Hammond’s cause it was close. There were easily twenty five guys on it. We bailed and went south. Rincon was crowded as was little ‘Con. Ultimately out of time we settled for Hobson’s since we got a parking spot, saw a few decent lefts and the crowd was very light. As per usual Hobson’s always looks better then it is. I rode my short board when I should have fished it. Still we both managed some fun ones and were stoked to surf together.
4-6-19 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 30
I had work all day till the afternoon. Though the wind was up and there was not all that much swell on the buoy I really wanted surf so I headed south. Rincon has some small broken up lines. I wasn’t super stoked and considering Gabe was in the shop shaping away I thougt I would swing by for a visit. We got a bit of work done. On the way home I grabbed my fish and jumped in at Rincon. Though a bit funky and wind swelly I managed a few fun ones.
4-5-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Surfer’s Knoll
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 64
Well if it aint broke dont fix it. The Knoll has been on a roll. This morning was by far the best quality all week. It figures it’s on the one morning I had a limited amount of time. Word had gotten out as well cause there were about twenty or so guys spread out up and down the beach. I frothed a actually the right was better then the left. I’d say it was one of the better surfs I have had in some time. The rest of my day was spent preparing for weekend jobs.
4-4-19 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Surfer’s Knoll
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 64
With the combo swell still holding strong I went back to the Harbor. Once again the same peak I have been thriving on was doing its thing. I grabbed my shortboard and had a pretty fun surf. I had the peak all to myself yet again. The rest of my day was spent making pastry for a local hotel on a subcontracting gig.
4-3-19 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Surfer’s Knoll
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 64
There was wind swell, south swell, and nw swell all in the water coupled with south wind. The Channel was an absolute mess. I decided to check the Harbor before meeting up with Angers and trying our hand down south in Malibu. The Knoll had some peaks up and down beach. I was not in the mood to make the trek south. Angers showed up and we paddled. The swell was all over the place with everything from close outs to tubes. I couldn’t get in a rhythm and kooked it. Meanwhile Angers ripped the shit out of every peak that came his way. I did manage a few. After the surf I had to head back to Santa Barbara to fill out all kinds of paper work to take my catering gig legit. Finally ending things with another day of ding repair.
4-2-19 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, C Street
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 62
Angers was off and we were stoked to get a surf in not having similar work schedules for quite some time. There was some new NW swell in the water as well. It was steep in the 300 range and very long period, 18 seconds. It strikes me as rather odd to be getting such long period north west swells this late into the season, as these are more common in the fall and early winter. Strand and Rincon were small and Harbor low quality. We had a look at Dredge. It had plenty of size, but was riddled with back wash and a bit closed out. With no where else to turn we settled for C Street, which was getting both the NW and the south. Since the wind was on it the crowd was very manageable. As it turns out the place was super rip-able and we frothed. As the tide dropped the peaks began breaking up and good sets were few and far between. After an hour of beating around the bush we decided to call it a day and were shocked how long we had surfed. The rest of my day was spent shuffling around blanks and doing ding repair.
4-1-19 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Surfer’s Knoll
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 64
There was some solid south on the buoys and very little NW causing me to head south as well. Emma looked really fun, but as I was considering making the paddle every pro and ripper in Ventura decided to do the same. With that I had a look at the Harbor if for only other reason, but to rule it out. As luck would have it there were fun looking peaks up and down the beach with only a few guys out. Unfortunately they had begun the Harbor dredge project causing the water quality to even more questionable then usual at a spot where water quality is always suspect. For the moment they weren’t pumping so I paddled. There was a fun looking peak just to south end of the Knoll that was delivering a good left and the wind was light off shore. I frothed on this super rip-able albeit a little back-washy left bar till the wind changed and tide got a bit too high. My solace was only broken by my friend Chris paddling, who I was more then happy to share a few waves with. Good times. The rest of my day off was eaten up running errands for Clarks Surfboards.