Surfing Ruined My Life

July 2022 Surf Sessions

7-31-22 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Ormond Beach
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 4
There was supposed to be some new south swell in the water.  The swell was very long period with sets nothing more then meager pulses.  Hueneme was packed for the lack of size and shape.  I couldn’t get into it. I did want to surf. I cruised home and got my Clarks Surfboards SPF Twin fin fish and cruised over to Ormond.  It was absolutely gutless and mushy out there.  No one was out and that Fish eats waves like that up.  Overall it was certainly a nominal session only fun because that board is such a trip to ride.  I have definitely found it fun to ride alternate equipment once in awhile the past few years.  It really helps me open up my mind as both a surfer and a shaper.  The rest of my day was spent working a charity fundraiser for Old Spanish Days in Santa Barbara.  Should be more swell filling in tomorrow. 

7-30-22 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 2
Today was definitely a grovel.  Actually though small I was still surprised how much swell was still getting in.  Rockside looked peaky and fun.  The rising tide, which usually helps Hueneme has actually been hurting it since last weeks big south moved all the sand around.  What looked fun when I was checking it turned off rather quickly.  I also had butter feet and couldn’t put together anything.  I fell on stock standard moves.  It wasn’t a total hate session I had one really decent right worth something.  The rest of my day was spent all the way up in the Santa Ynez Valley working a wedding.  

7-29-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hrs 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 2
I woke up this morning full on ready to grovel.  Upon checking the surf I was pleasantly surprised as I watched solid chest high sets smash on the south side of the pier.  The waves ended up being way faster then they looked.  Either that or I was a little slower then normal.  My back was hurting a bit since last nights job.  Age has a funny way of sneaking up on you.  That being said I did get a few really decent ones.  I surfed with this farther and son duo from Port Hueneme.  The son was in his fifties and dad in his eighties.  It was stoke to surf with two generations of Hueneme surfers and I’m always happy when I see a guy that old surfing.  It gives me hope of many more years to come.  My wife was working from home for the day and we enjoyed a late lunch together.  Any bonus time I get to spend with her is always quality time.  For a change I had a Friday night off.  We were thinking about going out but then decided to just keep it mellow and stay in.

7-28-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 31
Miles Driven: 2
Though the swell had dropped there was still enough left in the water for Hueneme to be fun.  The north side of the pier had some glassy crossed up peaks that seemed fun enough with just a few kids on it.  I jumped in and found it to be a tad weaker then I had hoped.  The incoming tide only made the situation worse.  Every so often a chest high south set would roll through that was palatable.  I frothed a bunch of waves, got my work out and called it a day.  I had to work a lesbian wedding in Santa Barbara.  It was my second same sex marriage of the season.  Kudos to that community for the great strives they have made.  As per usual we did an outstanding job of making their special day as perfect as can be.

7-27-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Heaven’s
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 40
The minor south swell was peaking. Hueneme was all walled and I got word that Harbor was windy.  I decided to cruise to LA.  Sets were few and far between at most spots and crowds heavy.  County had wind on it.  Leo looked the best though the crowd impossible with the lack of waves.  I had a look at Heavens.  It was nominal at best but there were only two guys on it so I paddled.  There were a few lefts and rights amid the close outs.  It was still really slow out there.  Maybe I should have taken my chances with the close outs at Hueneme.  The rest of my day was spent running all around Oxnard on a plethora of errands including buying a new compressor for my shaping room as my current one had tapped out on me. Looks like the rest of the week and weekend are going to be rather grovelly. 

7-26-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 2
There was a slight bump up in the south swell which allowed for more size but less shape.  I paddled Rockside cause I saw a few corners worthy of pursuit.  There was an obnoxious amount of backwash making catching and surfing the already racy waves even more difficult.  There was rip in front of the closest life guard tower to the rocks that was forcing a left to peel.  I paddled over there.  As the tide got higher everything slowed down.  I managed a few ok lefts but overall it was far from a fun time out there.  After the surf I finally shaped the first board in my new shaping room.  It’s pretty cool not having to share a space with a six other shapers and a Glasser.  

7-25-22 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
Miles Driven: 2
Another down day of waves left me groveling the south side of the Pier on Clarks Surfboards Mr. Pocket mini Simmons.  That board cuts through the mush and flat sections like a hot knife through butter.  Actually there was a decent little wedge bowl coming off the the Pier that was fun enough considering the size.  I got my work out in and had the place to myself.  The session was rather uneventful until I was lunged at by a very aggressive harbor seal. I paddled away and he decided not to pursue. After the surf I met up with my wife who was off for the day and we enjoyed the afternoon together. 

7-24-22 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 2
I had to be in Santa Barbara by 1:30 to meet a surfboard customer and then head up to the Valley to work a wedding.  This left a shorter surf window then I usual like.  The waves were tiny anyway thus I just paddled out front.  There was a small weak left wedge off the north side of the pier.  I took my grovel board and did my standard twenty wave work out. It was by far the weakest waves I had surfed in over a week.  I guess it’s back to our regularly scheduled flatness.  

7-23-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 2
The Code Red Swell was gone leaving us with high tide and some minor SW/NW combo in the water.  These are the conditions that my new home of Huneme thrives on.  I had a look at Rockside but it appeared that the big swell has wreaked havoc on the bars.  There were about twenty guys on it too.  I saw some peaks by the pier and had a look.  The south side was doing that wedge thing I like and I paddled.  The place was a skate park with lots of air sections and the occasional left tube going into the pier.  I got on froth and had a blast. Ryan and his kids showed up unfortunately as the wind was beginning to trash and at the end of my session.  They still managed a few fun peaks.  After the surf it was time for a quick breaky with my wife.  Our afternoon was spent at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum.  My wife and her staff were having their annual fundraiser for said museum.  They hired Catering Connection, whom I do some events for to cater it.  Bizarro and I handled the food and my wife the organization.  It was quite the family affair.  Everyone did their job and as usual it was another successful event.

7-22-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 52
I was really hoping with the drop in swell the Ventura beaches would be the ticket.  Hueneme was somewhat peaky though still a bit closed out and it had a strange channel funk on it.  I called Ryan to see how the Harbor was.  He said it was below average and I was better off heading to LA.  C.C. was over it so I was on my own.  County had some ugly chop on it thus I headed for Leo.  I think there must have been some junk wind out in the channel cause the same chop was on Leo too.  Zeros looked less consistent and more crowded.  Leo was the call.  I paddled my grovel board for the first time in a week.  I actually started at the bone yard cause I saw a few decent ones there, but the kelp was too overgrown for it to be fun.  From there I paddled over the the Leo rock and got in the rotation.  Though there were sets the push was all gone from the swell making me wish I had my fish.  At the very least the crowd wasn’t bad.  Unfortunately as the tide dropped the kelp got impossible on the first section of the wave. Over it I caught a few more and went home to finish my shopping room.  Later that night my wife and I decided to have a date night.  We ate a this little bistro off of Thompson in Downtown Ventura call Cafe Zack.  I must say we were pleasantly surprised with a very worthy menu and solid wine list.  The food was very good.  The place is on the higher end side of dining for Ventura.  If you’re looking for a nice night out or celebrating a special occasion I highly recommend Cafe Zack.

7-21-22 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
Miles Driven: 68
I completely blew it today.  The beaches had yet again failed me.  I hit up C.C. to go to the ‘bu again.  He was down but had about an hour and a half of errands to run.  I had to go to Home Depot to pick up a few brackets for my lights so decided to do that in the interim.  Then he called me back and said he needed another hour or so.  I finished the little bit left for my lights. Three hours later dude still wasn’t ready.  Finally at around 2pm we cruised south.  By then the wind had come up and tide filled in.  We got word that 2nd Peak was still solid and fun thus headed straight there.  Unfortunately between the rising tide and onshore wind the waves were a bit more racy and walled then we would have liked.  On the plus side there was almost no one out.  I picked off a few but it was difficult backside to negotiate the extra chop that the wind had added to the wave face.  C.C. was over it after a few waves and bailed.  Since he was my ride I caught a few more and left as well.  I should have just surfed earlier on my own today.  Oh well, I suppose I never really found a truly epic moment on the Code Red swell.  That being said at least it was fun to ride consistently overhead waves for a week in summer. 

7-20-22 AM Session: 5-8+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 68
Once again I gave the VTA and Oxnard beaches a fair shot and once again I was left wanting. I called C.C. to see if he was heading to the ‘bu, which he was. I jumped in with him and we rolled to 2nd. It was firing, maybe the best I have ever seen second peak. The waves were head to overhead with bigger sets, glassy somewhat consistent and not as crowded as it could have been. There may have only been about 100 guys out on that part of the point. I’d say there was easily 250 on the white point. Right off the bat I picked off three decent ones. Then I got into a funk and found myself constantly out of position and always too deep or when I got a decent line some kook would burn me and fall thus ruining any chance I had of getting around him. C.C. always manages to get the best waves on any given day out there. He was sitting way inside of second. I went and sat by him and scored the best three waves I caught the entire “Code Red swell”. Hopefully the beaches will turn on tomorrow. I’d really like to get barreled.

7-19-22 PM Session: 5-8+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 92
Is it really a swell event in California if I don’t spend at least one entire day scouring a hundred miles of coastline only to surf one of my usual spots close to my home? My morning started off at the the beach breaks. Strand was tiny, Hollywood was do-able but I wasn’t frothing on it. Shores was weak due to the shitty bars and Rivermouth was all closed out since there was too much swell for it, and the bars are junk there as well. I cruised up to Emma since Ryan had said he got some fun ones in that zone yesterday. It was probably the best wave I had seen all morning. That being said the south sets were just sweeping down the beach and current looked tough. Tide was also a bit too low for the place. I had a look at Hobos, which may have been fun if the wind hadn’t come out up out of the NW trashing it. I attempted to look at Ventura point but couldn’t find parking and that was enough for me to rule that spot out all together. Instead I came home grabbed Bizarro and we headed south to LA. We stupidly went back to Dume. It was more packed than yesterday, less consistent and the shape was not as good with more close outs. Then we cruised to Ladigo Point where there was plenty of swell but it was mushy and low quality as usual. The call was to just go back to Leo and fight the crowd. I saw a number of head high plus double ups that were rolling under the pack and standing up off the rock. My strategy worked and I just frothed on those. Between the long paddle back, the constant jockeying for position and the long rides I was gassed after fourteen waves and called it a day. Later that evening Bizarro and I finally got the lights to work in my shaping room. All I need is one more trip to Home Depot to finish my shadow boxes and she is ready to go.

7-18-22 PM Session: 6-10+ ft, Point Dume
Time in Water: 2 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 66
I have said it once and I’ll say it again. I hate hyped swells, especially when they are given stupid names like “the Code Red Swell”. I spent my morning driving around to no avail. I probably should have paddled at Hollywood but I didn’t trust the tide. Instead Biz and I got more work done on the shaping room. The lighting has been more problematic then I initially had intended. Around three we headed to LA with Point Dume on our minds. Unfortunately about sixty other guys had the same intentions. The place was more crowded then I have ever seen it. It was also bigger then I have ever seen it with sets up to ten to 15 feet. Some completely closed out the entire bay. It was unbelievable. If I hadn’t been there I wouldn’t have believed it. I got out there and the surf-able waves were very inconsistent, what else is new at Dume. The crowd although the majority rather kooky for the skill level of the wave was frothy and cut throat. I got burned on every set wave I took. I got one ten foot bomb that I was so under gunned on I couldn’t do a turn and just had to stand there and race it survival mode. It went 340 yards and I was moving at 22 mph according to my watch. I did manage two fun inside waves and got washed over the inside dry reef on a close out. The water was freezing and the waits long. If there were only twenty guys out it would have been epic. Instead it was a shit show more waves got ruined then caught thanks to the never ending crowd. I hate what surfing has become. Hopefully I do better tomorrow. Look for clips and pics on my social media soon.

7-19-22 PM Session: 5-8+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 94
I have said it

7-17-22 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Heavens,
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 38
We were completely fogged in at all the Ventura and Oxnard beaches. My was with me and she wanted to shoot some photos. It looked clear on the LA cams and with the code red swell south just beginning to show it was the best chance of size. I know I said I wasn’t doing LA on the weekends anymore but I’m so close now it’s hard not to. All the usual spots were packed. Heavens which is a whatever wave in my opinion had some rip-able corners and a light crowd for a Sunday. I jumped in and did my thing. I always forget how wonky that wave is. I got a few lefts and rights that made it worth it. After the surf it was brunch and followed by an afternoon gardening in our yard. Talk about a very adult afternoon.

7-16-22 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Point Mugu,
Time in Water: 2 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 14
I got a surprising call from my friend Dave that he is going to be back in town for a month. Dave is my Base connection and with some new south swell in the water I was stoked. Biz and I met him at the gate and we cruised. The place was packes with easily thirty guys out. It wasn’t great conditions for base. The south swell has a little too much west in it and there was a steep NW wind swell that was causing extra rips and close outs. Still there were a few decent tubes to be had. Normally if I were getting on the Base regularly I would have passed on the surf, but not knowing the next time I might get to surf there I paddled. The first forty five minutes was a waste. I kept getting stuck in rips or paddled into close outs. Biz tried to swim and just got lost in the current. Then he went in and set up his tripod and the wind switched a bit more north making it straight offshore. For the half hour or so that lasted I packed a few really decent tubes. One was so deep I couldn’t even see out of it. Then tide got to high and wind got funky. I was about to call it when I managed a really decent runner left that I finagled a double and almost a triple barrel on. After that we bailed. I was supposed be in SB for my wife’s grand fathers 90th birthday party at one and it was already noon when I got out of the water. Also I had to make a chef salad for 100 people before leaving and I had to work a wedding in the evening. I got to the party at 2pm set up their buffet line, grabbed a quick plate then cruised up to Dos Pueblos ranch for the wedding. Although very hot the event went off well. Then I met up with my wife and her family for the after birthday party in her grandfather’s backyard. Talk about a very full day.

7-15-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 10
There was some solid NW on the buoys on top of a fair bit of south. I decided to give the Shores a look and if there was a decent amount of NW maybe head to strand. Just two hours off low tide and it was already barely breaking. There was also no sign of any real NW swell. Taking into account yesterday’s surf I headed back to Hueneme. The were dumpy short peaks up and down the beach with the crowd concentrated at Rockside. I saw a few good lefts off the north side of the pier and paddled. Though nothing special I managed a few alright waves. After the surf I had to make an Italian pasta salad for 100 people before heading to Santa Barbara to work a wedding.

7-14-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 18
After a week of surfing dumpy Hueneme close outs I was in the mood for some longer open faces. Ironically I had decided to go to the harbor for such a wave. When I lived in Santa Barbara I always considered Harbor a short wave. How different locations can change one’s perspective. I also needed to get some new tires on my car and thus I brought Bizarro along with me so I could drop off my car and then we could go film. I use America’s Tire cause the seem to always have the best prices and service. We cruised up to the Harbor. It was about chest plus and already looking a bit fat at mid tide. I saw a few palatable peaks towards the River Mouth and the crowd wasn’t bad for what was on offer. Sadly it was still some of the best waves I had seen to film in two weeks. Once out there the tide had really turned what should have been fun surf into complete burgers. I was on my grovel board and made the most of it. We definitely scored a bunch on B clips and maybe a few A clips. Look to the next YouTube edit for that. Rest of my day was spent running errands and finishing the soft gym floor of my shaping room.

7-13-22 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 4
A lot didn’t go my way this morning. First off the surf looked a tad smaller and more racy then yesterday. Still there were some runners with only two guys out. I pulled out my suit and realized I forgot my boots thus had to run home to pick them up. I paddled my grovel board. Another six guys showed up from when I checked it to when I suited up. Right off the bat I snagged three solid lefts. The session had the makings of picked up especially with the two minor souths in the water and a new steadily rising long period south as well. With that in mind I ran back to my car, grabbed my mid range wave board, called Bizarro to come film and ran back out. I sort of have mixed feelings about board changes when I don’t have the swap on the beach. I feel like it always jinxes the surf. Sure enough I got two more ok rides as soon as I hit the water. Then it completely turned off. All the sets began coming in very stretched and the wind went more west adding a bit of chop on the face making very hard to novitiate the run away train lines coming in. It was a bummer cause the sets were solid chest plus but without any corner what so ever. Biz showed up and I flashed him the thumbs down so he wouldn’t waste his time setting up all his gear. Tonight I picked up a last minute gig at the Magic Castle in SB. I used to work there a fair bit with Micheal before the pandemic and it’s a pretty rad place to work with all the performances and what not. It should be a fun night.

7-12-22 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
The crowd was out in full force this morning. Considering it was the best waves I had seen in two weeks I couldn’t blame them. Rockside was peaky waist plus with the odd ball chest high set. It was very inconsistent with the added thirty plus crowd my wave count took a serious toll. That being said I got a handful of really decent lefts and two choice rights. After the surf Bizarro and I headed out to Home Depot to pick up one more light for the shaping room. Of course the Oxnard store didn’t have it thus we had to drive all the way out to the Camarillo one. Then we met up with some lady in Oxnard to score the large Kitchen Aid stand mixer for $100. The thing was practically new. Those for $600 retail and my current one the bowl clamp has stripped making it a bit sketchy to use.

7-11-22 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 34
Miles Driven: 2
Summer time conditions were in full force. I saw a little right wedge off the south side of the Pier and an alright left going back into it. These are classic skate park like conditions even if it was only about waist high or so. I jumped in and got busy. Surprisingly the corners were alright and close outs boost-able. I got on a tear and actually had fun considering how deplorable the surf was. I had one left that might have pushed chest high that I stuck a decent straight air on. While walking up the beach a life guard who might have been seventeen stopped me to shoot the shit and inform me how I really missed it yeah. I smiled and walked away. Surfing and surfers, including myself are all idiots. The rest of my day was spent tinkering with getting lighting right in my shaping room. Lighting is the hardest part and unfortunately it’s different for every space. The process is trail and error of which today was mostly error.

7-10-22 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Ormond Beach
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 4
More tiny surf was on tap yet again this morning with a tad more long period south swell in the water. Hueneme was pretty crowded and uninspiring. Since I had my wife with me we decided to cruise over to Ormond Beach. I wanted to get some reconnaissance on the state of the bars there and I figured if it was terrible my wife and I could always do a bit of birding. It was pretty terrible with a lot of deep spots and holes in the bars, though it could be alright with a larger swell. I saw a couple of burgers that looked connectable to the inside on my new Clarks Surfboards S.P.F. Fish. I am still messing around with that boards different capabilities and thought the deplorable surf was perfect to see how it behaved. Once again I was pleasantly surprised by the flow this board kept with such terrible waves. There were times I was literally riding nothing but an unbroken swell to connect from the outer bar to inner bar. At time I felt like I was almost riding a foil. What a trip. After the surf my wife and I decided to try a new spot to us out by the 101 and the two tall Oxnard towers called The Vineyard Cafe. We went for the bottomless mimosas and their excellent crepe menu. The food was good, atmosphere decent and service diligent. I definitely recommend giving them a try if you’re in the Oxnard area. From there we had a bunch of errands to run before the upcoming work week. Looks like more tiny surf the coming week.

7-9-22 AM Session: 1-2ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 2
This morning was yet another grovel. Though it was supposed to be marginally better today it was actually smaller and less consistent then yesterday. Yesterday was pretty terrible. Rockside had a lot of guys on it and it looked weak. Once again I paddled the south side of the pier. It was slow but at least I had it to myself. That was until a group of life guards, not saving people or watching the water paddled out and sat right on me riding soft tops. There is a huge beach to go kook it with your friends why they chose to sit with me is a mystery. It’s not like I had an inviting look on my face or that there was even enough waves for all of us. Still I did my thing. Just another marginal summer surf to keep the cobwebs off. The rest of my afternoon I have a plated seven course meal in Montecito that should be interesting.

7-8-22 AM Session: 1-2+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
After taking four days off cause of absolutely deplorable surf I was resolved to paddle something this morning. According to the forecast there is no relief from this flat spell till maybe the middle of next week. There was a tiny wave coming off the Pier. I started on the north side till the tide got too low and the waves got dumpy. Then I paddled over to the south side which had a little right wedge coming off it. I stress the word little. If the sets were thigh high I was lucky. I can grovel with the best of them and got a few hits in. It was nice to get wet. The water is still cold maybe in the mid fifties. The rest of my day was spent working a wedding in Santa Barbara.

7-7-22 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I got word from Jeffery that the Harbor was not surf-able and that Emma was smaller then yesterday. I had drive to look out front. Rockside had a tiny knee high wave at best. It looked weak and a struggle. Still I was resolved to paddle out just to get wet. When I looked in the back of my car I had forgot my wetsuit at home. That was enough of a message to tell me it to bother. Instead I finished my shaping racks, and got a few more minor details finished in my shaping room before I bring in the lights and flooring next week. Then I’ll be ready to go!!!

7-6-22 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
It’s scary when putting 1-2ft is a stretch. It might have been knee high at best and noting more then some dribbly wind swell. I couldn’t get into and decided to pass. Rather then leave you bored I can tell the story of my broken toilet flapper. One of the joys of home ownership they don’t tell is how something always needs fixing all the time. I’m talking nonstop. The house itself is like a full time job. Last night my wife woke me up around midnight that the toilet was running and I needed to take a look cause in her words “I’m a man”. It’s funny how the women liberation movement is selective in the activities that they wish to be equal at. Anyhow the flapper has completely disintegrated. I turned off the water valve to the toilet and went to back to sleep. This morning I cruised out to the Hardware store. The closest one to me is the Ace on Harbor blvd. That store is gnarly. I have never shopped at a store that makes me feel as uncomfortable as the owner and his employees make me feel. They straight up will yell at you if you’re not sure what you want. It’s very unnerving to say the least. The last time I went in there I needed to get a simple 3/4” boring bit to make holes for the dowels for my surf board racks and I had to fight with three employees to get what I needed and the idiots still sold me the wrong size. Luckily the store was very busy and no one was around to give me misinformation. When I got to the toilet isle I was shocked to find out that flappers come in different sizes. I bought a universal kit figuring it would be the ticket. It wasn’t and I had to go back and return it for the right size. While I was at it I bought a bottle of draino as well since my master bedroom shower was draining a bit slow. There is a taste of my life when I don’t surf. Tomorrow I am going to make a serious effort to force a paddle.

7-5-22 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
I didn’t even bother trying to surf today. The buoys were about as small as they get around here and the cams weren’t looking much better. Jeffery said the Harbor was completely not surf-able. Instead I got a laundry list of errands out of the the way. Looks like a possible marginal increase for the end of the week. In the meantime check out my latest YouTube edit Juxtaposition on the Clarks Surfboards YouTube Channel: https://youtu.be/0iN-DjAORjY

7-4-22 No Surfing: 1-2+ft
Miles Driven: 18
I’m alright with a grovel, but there is nothing I hate more then small gutless waves with wind on it. That was the case at the Harbor, the only real option in Ventura county considering the meager swell. Rather then waste my morning getting frustrated my wife and I decided to do a little birding by the Santa Clara River Mouth. We actually saw a lots of cool shore birds. We also got rather sun burned. After that we got some brunch and then kicked it around the house before I had to go work a high ticket Montecito 4th of July BBQ. Last 4th of July I was in Mexico scoring San Miguel with Kevin Angers. If only Doc could show up with his time traveling Dolorean.

7-3-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 2
Another morning of junk surf as the wind was on it from first light. After getting less then stellar reports from others locales I decided to just paddled Rockside where I saw a couple of chest high peaks up and down the beach. The water was even colder then yesterday, maybe pushing fifty leaving me freezing in my 4/3. The was were way more dumpy then I would have liked with shrinking useless shoulders. I beat my head against the wall for over an hour trying to find anything that stoked me out. Ultimately I left rather unsatisfied. I actually had the day off which is rare for a holiday weekend. It was nice to spend an entire day with my wife for a change.

7-2-22 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
I was super unmotivated to surf this morning. Days upon days of subpar surf had just about taken the wind out of my sails. Pat hit me up around 9am that he was going to paddle the south side of the pier. Pat hardly surfs and if he is going to surf out in front then I really had no excuse but to paddle. It looked pretty terrible but Pat was out by himself and I conceded to join him. Misery loves company after all. The tide was still a bit too low making it very dumpy. The swell was a bit more walled today and the wind was on it. All the makings of an absolute shit surf were in play. Oh yeah and to make matters worse the water temperature dropped back down into the fifties and I was in my 3 mil. We shot the shot for a bit then bailed. The rest of my afternoon and evening was spent on yet another wedding (it’s the season) in Carpinteria. This one though a bit of a complex menu went down famously.

7-1-22 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Fruit Stands
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 16
Hueneme had waves again this morning but with the low tide I just wasn’t in the mood for another day of dumpy close outs. Ryan said he had been getting some decent waves over at Fruit Stands and in the mood for something different I headed over there. I also have not checked in with the bars there in quite some time. When I walked over the dunes I was definitely let down with what I saw. The bars there still have too many holes in them. The tide was only at about a foot and half and it was already fat and a burger. The sets were really inconsistent as well so keeping position on the bars was next to impossible with the current that always exists out there. Luckily I ran into my friend Tim in the lot who said it was on the weaker side. Tim is always pretty optimistic so taking that into account I grabbed my grovel board. Still even on the groveler it was rather difficult to make anything happen. As the tide got higher there was a bit of a shore break wave that was surf-able. Overall I don’t think I will be surfing out at fruits any time soon. I had another wedding in Santa Barbara for one hundred fifty people. Unlike last nights event this one was a bit hectic and started almost an hour late. If you have ever worked weddings once the time line gets messed up it’s very hard to get it back on track. One of the reasons people hire me for events is because of my ability to get out of the weeds. I did my job and all was well.