January 2020 Surf Sessions
1-31-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 44
I finally had to work in the afternoon today. I checked everything from Hammonds to Pitas. Considering the waves and crowds I resolved to paddle Rincon with an open mind and some patience and battle a one hundred and fifty strong crowd. It was actually very consistent with three swells in the water and the crowd was made up of a majority of visitors. All this lead to getting some really good waves off them very easy. It also helped that I got in the zone and just somehow managed to find my way onto all keepers from Indicator all the way to the Cove. I switched back to my lower volume board and it really made a huge difference for me in my performance. Everyone is always talking about adding more volume, yet every time I do I just feel all slow and boggy on my rails. I guess I am sticking with what I know.
1-30-20 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 80
With plenty of west swell and perfect wind conditions I figured I was ripe to finally score Naples. I got up around nine and headed over. I didn’t even bother to check it from the hill. Instead I packed up my stuff and made the hike. There were no cars in the lot, which can either mean you are really going to score it alone or you are going to get skunked. My fate unfortunately was the latter. When I got down the trail conditions were absolutely perfect except that it was barely waist high with maybe an occasional bigger set on all of the reefs. Being it was still early and I was off I decided to hike out and head south, where I knew there were waves on all the points. I had a look at Hammonds again, but it was tiny there too. Rincon looked fun, but was packed. Little Rincon had a decent wave with only five guys on it and room for more. Before paddling there I had to take a look at Pitas, which was bigger, but all broken up and crowded for what it was. Little ‘Con won out and actually I had a really fun surf there with another minimal and mellow crowd. My only gripe was that it was a bit inconsistent on the sets and the small ones were not worth the effort.
1-29-20 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 78
Nothing like a good day of car surfing only to end up less then four miles from your own house. I had to go down to Ventura to pick up some long boards from my glasser for delivery in Goleta. On the way down I checked everything and even continued to Silver Strand. All the points had some shitty south wind on them, meanwhile Strand was hard onshore. Over it I picked up the boards and headed to Goleta. I figured I would just surf somewhere around there after the drop off. As I was coming up the hill at Summerland on the 101 I noticed that the wind was perfectly off shore in Montecito and it appeared there were some waves at Hammonds. I ran down the trail and was greeted by perfectly groomed chest to head high runners with only two guys out. Stoked, I moved my appointment in Goleta for the following morning and paddled out. Right off the bat I had some really fun ones. Then the two guys that were out there left and it was just me for about a half hour till two other guys came out and we shared it for about an hour. Then they left and I had to myself for another half hour. At that point I was completely exhausted and was blowing waves for that reason. A few other surfers paddled and that was my cue to call it a day. What a lucky break and a sick surf. I can’t remember the last time I surfed fun Hammonds all to myself. In these over crowded times it was a breath of fresh air.
1-28-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 44
I was at a loss on where to surf today. The wind was south on all of the points from Pitas to Rincon and all the reports I got was that it was not too inviting. AJ called me in the afternoon and said El Cap looked fun and was somewhat empty for what was coming through. Hoping to get a redemption session from the last time I was out there I jumped at the chance. of course in the time it took me to drive there from my house and walk down to the point the place packed out easily fifty guys spread from the top to the bottom. The top section was pretty heavy with the mid tide allowing me to believe that I could get a few off of the less then eager crowd not willing to throw themselves over the ledge under shallow boulders. This method worked well as far as getting some decent ones to myself. Most up top were not really connecting all the way to the Cove. That being said there was still a decent enough barrel to be had. Every now and then a really decent set would roll through that would connect. For whatever reason every time I got one of these I was denied by some absurd instance of a drop in or some other form of kookery a few of which I am going to take a moment to describe to you. My first good one I caught deep up at the River Mouth and ran through two super racy sections , pulled into the tube on the third section and as I was coming out at the top of the Cove some dude blatantly dropped in almost on my head. I made it around him, but another kook on a long board took the opportunity of my slight stumble in avoidance of the first kook and dumped enough water in front of me so that I was not able to recover my line. My next really good one I managed to ride the foam ball in the tube for easily fifty yards. I came out and as I was setting up for my next tube this fucking kook paddled right in front of my line and I had to straighten off not to kill him and possibly wreck my board. Instead of getting possibly two more barrel sections, I got thrown into the rocks. When did kooks decided to over run El Capitan. It has always been crowded out there, but normally it was a crowd of competent surfers so that when you did get a good one it was yours. No one paddled on you, or burned or got in the way. My only solace was that I got a good one from mid point all the way to the bottom and managed to get barreled through the entirety of the Cove. Still even on that one three guys attempted to paddle on me. Fuck the KOOKS!!!!
1-27-19 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 30
I started out at Hammonds, but the wind had turned south right as I came out of the trail. It was all chopped up and very underwhelming. I went to Rincon hoping for the best. For what ever reason though there was wind swirling all around the place it was pretty clean. A bit fat with the high tide I saw enough coming through from River Mouth to Indicator to allow me to believe it would be fun. The crowd was very light, maybe fifteen in the Cove and ten up top. I started in the Cove cause despite the tide there were some bombs that were standing up. It was very inconsistent and after eating up and half hour and only catching two waves I decided to head up top. I must of eaten lucky charms for breakfast cause I was in the right spot for every good wave that came through. I got on a real rip for a bit there. I can’t remember the last time I felt that good at Rincon. As the tide dropped it got mushy or dumpy or both up top and crowded. I floated down to the Cove where I stroked into a solid head high set wave that I tore up all the way to the free way. At that point I had to call it a day. Later that evening I another young leaders dinner in Montecito though only a ten hour day this time.
1-26-20 No Surfing: 5-7+ ft
Although the waves continued to pump I was faced with a double header work day that shaped out to fifteen hours long. I was still drunk from the night before for my morning gig and how I managed to wake up and get there on time I will never know. It as another round of Pizza at Fess Parker so nothing to worry about. Then I rolled over to Montecito where I was working a party of 150 for the future leaders of America or something along those lines. It was unfortunately a back breaking money over surfing day for me.
1-25-20 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 10
I had to work in the Valley early doing a wood fire pizza lunch gig for Fess Parker Vineyard. I got back into Santa Barbara around two and was going to run to Naples when AJ called me to inform that the waves were a bit walled and close outs abound out there. He also said that someone broke the windows of a handful of cars in the southern parking lot. I have been surfing Naples for fifteen years and there has never been a break in. I guess it was only a matter of time before the scum bags of the world made it to Gaviota. Fellow Naples surfers, be aware your car may not be as safe as it once was. Be weary of your valuables. It was packed everywhere I had a look at Sharks, but it was really inconsistent and after watching it from the freeway for ten minutes I was over it. On a last desperation effort I ran to Hammonds figuring with the drained out tide the crowd might stay away. There were about ten guys on it and though drained there were some solid lines coming through and some barrels. I was out there. I guess like twenty other guys had the same idea because by the time I suited and paddled the line up was thirty five strong and scrappy. I got burned twice blatantly. Two of my waves were ruined by kooks on the inside and it was a shit fight to get a good wave every time. That being said I did get some really good ones. Fuck the kooks, where the hell are they all coming from and why don’t they learn some etiquette. If you see a guy moving at mach ten down the line that surfer is going to make the wave, don’t paddle on him please! After the surf I took my chick out for another birthday night on the town. This time we tried Opal. I have always heard good things, though never have been. It is classic California Cuisine. The menu though uninspiring is very approachable for all diners and food good. I had flat Iron steak that was cooked perfectly. My girl had a piece of curried Salmon also done well. As far as pricing goes I felt it was fair for the menu. After that we went to the Wild Cat for what was supposed to be one drink and got completely smashed. I don’t even remember coming home.
1-24-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 30
The tide was a bit fat early. I wasn’t really in the mood to drive around all over the place looking for surf. I had work in the afternoon. Rincon though on the smaller side had some nice lines. Not in the mood to work hard on my short board I grabbed my Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz fish and went ham. I always forget how well that board cuts through the mush and flat sections. I had a grand old time for myself and the crowd stayed non existent the entire surf. I even found decent one in through the Cove to quit on. Later that night I took my lady out to that new high end Mexican place Flor De Maiz for her first birthday dinner of the weekend. I am not a fan of upscale Mexican food, why reinvent the wheel and the small taquirias do such a good job as it is. Besides being a bit pricey for what it was and the wine list being just about non existent, I mean they only had a Cabernet, Sauvignon blanc and a rose, the food was edible. We order a crevice, which was nothing special. I got the octopus for my main course, which was a tad under cooked and the rice was hard and lacked any flavor definition what so ever. My lady got their green Mole on a piece of white fish. The fish was dry and the mole although good was not much more then a doctored up tamatillo cilantro sauce. I give the place a six out of ten. The atmosphere was at least nice being right on Cabrillo. I suppose if you wanted to impress a date the place would do the trick, though I am unlikely to go back.
1-23-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Hammonds
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 10
Ah Hammonds, probably one of my favorite surf spots in town and one I put the most time in. You can’t be a fun, racy yet kill-able right reef break. Once again it was the first time I have paddled out there all winter and usually by now I have surfed it dozens of times. The crowd was light enough to persuade me to paddle and it stayed like that for the duration of my surf. I got on a tear and found some really good ones. It was just the session I needed to forget about the El Capitan crowd nightmare from yesterday. The rest of my day was spent making food for a PTA night food drop in Goleta.
1-22-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, El Capitan
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 9
Miles Driven: 44
I had work in the afternoon and considering the west swell I decided to head to El Cap. Due to all of the steeper swells this season I have yet to even surf there and today was my chance. I got there and though a tad smaller and as consistent as I would like there were some really good ones. Crowd was average with about 35 guys spread from top to bottom. I jumped in and headed up top where there were some solid tubes to be had and a few were even connecting all the way through. The crowd was pretty intense up there making competition for waves difficult. On top of that everytime I did get one there were at least five kooks trying to paddle in on me, dumping water on my tubes and ruining what would have been a good section. The crowd continued to grow til it was easily 75 strong, an unmanageable number for the spot even on the best of days. Basically I got really frustrated, somehow nabbed a set wave all the way through to the Cove and decided to call it a day before I killed someone. At least the few that I did get were all decent enough.
1-21-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 41
I woke up this morning and wasn’t feeling myself. My body had absolutely no energy and my throat was killing me. Seemed like the tell tale signs of being sick to me. Around ten I pulled my self out of bed and saw that there was actually a decent enough west swell on the buoys. Sick or not I was going to have to paddle something. These days we don’t get too many swells for the points. I grabbed Biz to film figuring we might get lucky. Rincon was solid, but super packed. Though I was up and about there was no way I was about to fight the crowd there. The tide was still a little high when we first checked Little ‘Con so we continued on to Pitas. For whatever reason it was smaller there and stretched up top. There looked like there was a bit of wrap into Faria, but there were about fifteen guys on it and it sucks to shoot there unless its big. Back to Little Rincon we went and I paddled. Thanks to the drastic tide change it went from too high to drained in just about thirty minutes. The crowd was a solid twelve guys. Luckily everyone rotated respectfully. I found some fun runners and we definitely got some shots. Overall it was still just a bit too racy for my liking.
1-20-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
Miles Driven: 78
I just couldn’t do it today. I checked everything from Rincon to Strand and back up again. It was stupid crowded everywhere and especially for how shitty it was. Dredge looked the best, except that it was mobbed and had very little room for me to even want to get into the mix. Pitas was small, but somewhat fun. There were thirty guys clogging the top for waves that maybe three guys could enjoy. Over it I decided to bag it and go home. You all know how much I hate driving and not surfing.
1-19-20 PM Session: 6-8+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 5
Miles Driven: 126
The surf was super tiny in Ventura. There was some long period WNW swell on the buoy and I figured there would definitely be enough to make Jalama fun. When I got there it was macking. T’s was double overhead plus and unruly, cracks completely walled. I left my step up at home leaving me with just a 5’10. I wasn’t even sure that I was going to paddle out. There were a couple of guys out at the River Mouth at the camp ground. With the low tide there was an outer bar that appeared to have a split peak left and right before eventually dumping on the inside. It was way overhead, but looked manageable enough. When I got there I realized it was wilderness and waves were all over the place with ten foot clean up sets that would break fifty yards farther out then I could even be. I found a few, but it was straight up survival surfing out there. I spent the majority of time paddling and dodging sets and then trying to find corners where I could. After the surf I decided to get a Jalama Burger for the effort.
1-18-20 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 56
Some days one should just have stayed in bed and today was one of them. I knew the surf was going to be down, but I really wanted to get a couple before work. Of course I overslept leaving me with only enough time to surf close to home. I got word Strand was solid. Fat lot of good it did me with my time window. It was small from Rincon to Emma. I saw a few at the top of Pitas and decided to give it a go. As I was walking down the break wall I slipped on some black sea weed and went head over heels landing right on my ass and completely dropped my board down the wall. Luckily I didn’t notice any dings. I paddled out and though only about waist plus it was high paced enough to be kill-able and there were even a few little barrels. With negative low tide it was shallow as it could be out there. About half way through my session I pulled into a mini-tube and caught my nose on the sand bar. I guess between that and the weight of my body pressing down in the center I snapped the board right in half clean. Bummed, but not beaten I ran back to my car and grabbed my fish just to try and end the surf on a positive note. In the time it took me to change boards the line up got mobbed by ten guys with enough waves to barely support four. I scrapped hard and got a few more. What a pain in the ass kind of morning. Weekends are beginning to get impossible these days.
1-17-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 78
I picked up Ryan at his place and we headed over to the Strand. We got two reports that it was so, so, but didn’t really know where else to go. The Ship was a bit wind Swelly, broken up and all over the place. There were definitely some gems to be had. We started at the Ship and I got a few really fun ones right off the bat. Then I don’t know if the crowd decided that was the place to be from my first few rides, but all of a sudden I was surrounded by like twenty surfers. Over that I paddled into the south bowl and found a decent enough hallow left to myself. I am not going to lie I took a few beatings trying to make the tiny suck up tubes before I began to make a couple. I was having a blast on this peak when the crowd from the Ship decided to follow me and once again clog this peak. In my usual fashion I paddled back to the ship. The wind swell seemed to drop out a bit as the tide got higher leaving us to rely on the mid period ground swell that was in the water. It was pretty inconsistent and the water was freezing. We caught a few more and decided to bail. My last wave was actually a pretty sick tube. Good times.
1-16-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I heard Strand was kind of fun in the morning before the wind came up. I had two gigs, my corporate lunch and a high end plated dinner for 150 at the Natural History Museum. I was looking at a solid 16 hour day. Minus the fact that it was pouring rain and my kitchen was half outside under a tent and half inside I would say it all went rather well.
1-15-20 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft
I was planning on getting an afternoon session in. I had a corporate lunch to work in the morning and then was suppose to have light prep in the afternoon. But we got stuck in the weeds and I didn’t get finished till seven at night making it a solid twelve hour day. I heard Rincon and Little Rincon both had some fun waves similar to what I have been surfing all week there.
1-14-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 30
Rinse and repeat. It was pretty much a carbon copy of yesterday except a bit more broken up. I decided to take my Clarks Surfboards Pop Fizz fish out to help me connect the dots with some of the flat sections. The Cove was clogged with long boards thus I avoided altogether opting for Indicator. Man did I have blast. I forgot how much fun that little board is in sub par surf. What a fun day of surfing.
1-13-20 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 30
Today started my one week of hell a month were I have my corporate client. It is also the most lucrative week of my month. I hate a Catch 22. The first day out of the gate went smooth enough. After I cruised to Rincon where there was a fun looking chest plus wave coming down the point. It was bit broken up and wind swelly, yet empty and very clean. I grabbed my Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy and paddled the Cove where I saw a few sick runners. There were a few long boarders whom decided to be assholes and burned me on nearly everything I took off on. Over it I paddled up to Indicator where I frothed with a bunch groms. It was far from Epic Rincon, but there crowd was right and I had a blast
1-12-20 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Dredge
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 88
Talk about an annoying day of car surfing. If there is one thing I hate doing is dragging my fiance along for the ride. We had a look at Strand mid day as the tide began to drop. It was crowded and rather soft looking. Hoping it might get better with less tide and banking on the winds staying down like the have all week I decided to go run some errands and come back. By then the wind came up and it was still really crowded and even worse looking. My girl really wanted to get burgers at this old school dinner type joint in downtown Ventura. Over the surf I complied. After eating there was a bit of light left. Taking into consideration the negative low tide I figured I might be able to get something at Pitas. There was a small waist to chest high wave up top. Two guys were on it and there was barely enough for them. From there I made a Hail Mary Ventura Harbor where it was all closed out though had plenty of size. At this point I was out of time and options. I figured I checked everywhere else but Dredge I should at very least give it a look and if it was shitty there I could hang myself from the zip line at the pirate ship. Sure enough it was solid head high plus with only a few guy out. I jumped in and though a little on the fast side, when isn’t it out there I managed a few good ones. Then like eight guys paddled for the last half hour of light clogging the line up. Still I managed to push a few more before dark.
1-11-20 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 41
I had this pretty sick gig up in Montecito at this fire proof house lived in by the actual architect himself. All the roofs had little two feet deep pools of water on top of them, the entire house was build out of nothing but glass, steel and concrete and it had this giant metal blast doors that can cover all the windows and doors in the event of a fire to protect the home. He as hosting a concert for this young up and coming Asian marimba performer. She was pretty unreal and I was stoked to get to listen to it and get paid. After the gig I headed south to take advantage of the wind swell/groundswell mix in the water. I heard Strand was good, but with only about and hour and half of light left I had to pick my closest option. I saw a few decent chest high ones at Pitas and there was no one out. It looked a little soft so I grabbed my Clarks Surfboards Fly Guy strigerless EPS model, which kills it for me in softer, yet rip-able surf. As it turns out I had no concept of size since there wasn’t a soul surfing it. There were some solid head high waves that were going square top to bottom. I found myself a tad under gunned, but made the most of it anyway. I surfed till dark all by myself on a Saturday. I guess everyone is finally getting surfed out. It has been a pretty sick fun the past six weeks or so.
1-10-20 AM Session: 4-6 + ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 78
It was a ground hog day sort of week at the Strand and one where I spent more time in the barrel then I have since I used to live in New Jersey. Today was the kicker. It was bigger, more powerful and way more hallow. I had a few tubes that you could have drove a car through and some really long travel time. The only downside was that it was very crowded and only about one out of ten were actually make-able. I had plenty of patience and posted up in the south bowl. I was rewarded with some of the best tubes I have scored all winter. I work in the afternoon, but what a day of surfing. It was also the first day I was riding my new Clarks Surfboards Hacksaw model. I added a bit more width and thickness to it for an over all two liters more volume. Lately I have felt my boards to be a bit anorexic. I was fast but I need a session that will afford me some open face to see how it performs. So far so good though.
1-9-20 No Surfing: 2-3 ft
There was some swell in the water. There was also howling onshore NW winds for all the beaches. I had to make a trip down to the Clarks Surfboard shop in Ventura to pick up some boards and figured I would have a look on the way back up. Everything was rather small and junky. Still feeling under the weather and having plenty to do I decided to take the day off.
1-8-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 78
Some days I feel like I would have been none the worse off if I had just stayed in bed and today was one of them. It appeared that the buoys had enough on them for Strand to be fun. When I got there it was very windswelly, short and all broken up. At the very least the wind was light off shore and the crowd was finally light. I got out there on my grovel board and it was way worse then it looked. Most waves were either dying out or close outs. I found a few tubes but wasn’t able to find my out. Finally I found a little resolve next to the ship, where there was a small whack-able bowl to be had. Ryan and I must have made it look too much fun cause four guys came and sat right on us. Still feeling a bit under the weather I decided to quit while I was ahead. I had to stop at Winco to get more cat litter cause all my cats do is shit and piss all day long. Of course after a second trip there they still did not have the brand I went out of my way to get. Over it I bought something similar for more money, that I could have gotten any place. Your welcome cats. My lady picked up my cold and has no where near the resolve to carry on as I do and asked me to get her some soup from Evitas in Ventura. Guess what? They shut down after 2019 after twenty something years in business. End result I came home empty handed and got yelled at. Then while making my own lunch my toaster decided to go all crazy on me and burned my toast to the point where it caught fire filling my entire apartment with smoke. To top the day off I was suppose to go to the zoo for the last hour they were open with my chick since she had a work meeting there and she decided she was too sick to go. I love the fucking zoo!!! Yeah it may read like a bunch of first world problem bullshit, but it still lead to a less then stellar day.
1-7-20 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 78
Expecting the surf to be down from yesterday I figured I would be groveling somewhere. Then Angers called and said Strand had some head high barrels. With crowd and wind lighter today I had another barrel fest and found way more waves. It was with out a doubt more lully then yesterday, but when a good one came it was pure stoke. I don’t know what more I can say about it. I surfed till the wind came up out of the NW just after noon.
1-6-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 78
Talk about a barrel fest. The Santa Annas were blowing keeping it as hallow as can be. The crowd was crazy gnarly easily 200 guys strong from jetty to jetty. There were also lots of waves and so many guys were blowing it that I saw no reason not to join in the chaos. Man did I get barreled off my head. I don’t think I did one turn the entire surf. As far as barrels go it was every wave. Unfortunately I have been fighting off a cold and today I was feeling pretty rough. Fatigue started setting in as did the cold from the wind and water. Fearing making my illness any worse I opted to quit. It was very hard walking up the beach back to my car watching cylinder after cylinder spin off perfectly. What a surf and what a surf filled four weeks its been.
1-5-20 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 41
When I checked it the top of the point was going off, chest to head plus and super consistent. Carlos was out going ballistic and some guys were getting shacked. Stoked I jumped in and got a few gems right off the bat. Then the wind died and it glassed off. Normally I would be stoked, but it also got super lully out there. I was waiting easily twenty minutes between waves. I grinded through as many waves as I could. My girl and I had tickets to a see a documentary film on the life work of Santa Barbara architect, Lutah Maria Riggs at the Lobero Theater back in Santa Barbara at six and I wasn’t about to miss it to sit out in the water another hour twiddling my thumbs. As it turned out I must have left the inside light in my car on or something cause I got out of the water to find that my car wouldn’t start. I had cables, but no one was around and all of my Ventura friends were not answering their phones. As I was calling my roadside assistance this older gentleman pulled up behind me and asked if I needed any help. Turns out he had one of battery charger packs and hooked it up. Talk about a modern day good Samaritan. I don’t know who you are, but thanks for the bail out. I will definitely pay the kindness forward. We made the film with no trouble at all.
1-4-20 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 78
My lady had her cousin and boy friend who surfed in town and of course offered my services to get the guy some waves. He wanted to surf Rincon, but he swell was a bit too north west for it and I recommended we just go down the Strand and see if we could get barreled. The ship was on. When I walked up the beach I saw five solid wave A-frame, barrel and spit both ways. Stoked I ran back to the car and paddled. It was definitely crowded out there. I got into a zone and just frothed. Sage paddled out, whom my girl ran up and took a picture with on the beach. She quite a fan of the WSL. I had a blast out there. Then the wind went south and the tide got a bit low making it a bit tough to find the really good ones. The crowd also dropped in half so I guess it was a push. Either way it was fun. After the surf we all went to breakfast at the Golden Egg, which never disappoints. Later in the evening we met up with a larger group of my fiance’s family for dinner, drinks and dancing. If that isn’t a solid use of a Saturday off I don’t know what is.
1-3-20 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 78
I got four contrasting reports from the Strand this morning making it not my first stop. Instead I checked everyplace else. All I saw were Kooks and Barneys everywhere. Besides myself I went to Strand. I had my step up in the car and if charging bombs was what it took to beat the mass kookery of crowds I was up for it. I got to the Ship as Angers was leaving. The south wind and the low tide had cut the size down quite a bit from the morning. It was glass and head plus on set. It looked fun enough to me. In actuality it was very lully, lots of rips and somewhat dumpy for what was on offer. I did manage a few decent barrels, but besides that it was like this entire swell for me laughable at best. I only laugh cause men don’t cry.
1-2-20 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Naples
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 41
I really wanted a break from the annoying crowds down south. Although there angle of the swell wasn’t ideal for Naples, AJ was eager to go and jumped on his band wagon as did videographer Cyrus Sutton. Andy Krick came along with his camera as well. We ran into some older guys on the trail who claimed it was long board at best. We were already in it thus kept walking. Seals was barely waist high, as was the crack peak. All the way up at Naples Reef there was an A-frame coming in. Actually there were about ten guys on it. The left was pretty heavy ending on dry reef with no takers. We saw a few chest to head high sets and paddled. As soon as we did the crowd dissipated thanks to the side shore south wind. Left with the just the three of us we made the most of it. AJ and Cyrus were owning the left. I suck at front side and found way more good ones on the right. It wasn’t the best wave around for sure, but as I always say the Naples experience is worth the effort no matter what you score.
1-1-20 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 56
Happy New Year and just in case you were wondering if it is a new decade the actual calendar start of any decade is 1st year and not the zero year. So 2021 is actually the start of a new decade. I only know this because my fiance and I got all excited to be getting married at the beginning of a new decade only to find out that its just the end of the last one. I suppose there is something to be said for that. There was no way I was going to be in any shape to surf a morning session and from what I heard the crowds were at an all time maximum capacity any way. Around two my lady and I got our acts together. I must say it was a fabulous NYE celebration at the Wild Cat. I wore a copper and white shinny tuxedo jacket with a bird feather bow tie. My chick had on a very gorgeous shiny copper dress to match. We did it right. The crowds were still all time leaving me with no other option then Emma Wood. I ran into AJ in the lot and he decided to paddle as well. He chose the south peak, while I opted for the north peak double up rights and lefts. It was pretty darn heavy out there, most were dumpy with the occasional sick one. This with out a doubt kept the crowd away. Though still a few kooks paddled whom had not the skill level to be out there. My girl was scared for them. I had a few choice waves and it was actually way more fun then I had expected from checking it.