Surfing Ruined My Life

September 2012 Surfing Sessions

September Surf Sessions in Review

9/30/12 PM Session: 1-2+ft, The Pipe, Spring Lake, NJ
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 56
Perfect conditions with tiny waves that is a usually NJ scenario. My boy Nick picked me up and took me to the pipe.  When we got there turns out a majority of the kids I used to teach at surf camp were all out.  They are all grown up now and can surf.  It instilled me with a sense of pride and at the same time I definitely felt a little old.  I worked the right for a bit but was not loving it while waiting for some fisher man to leave the left.  The left was mildly better where I snagged a bunch of small killable ones. Then I cruised back to the right with Kook for another half hour before leaving.  

9/29/12 PM Session: 1-3+ft, The Pipe, Spring Lake, NJ
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 28
We hosted a post wedding brunch at my parents’ lake house this morning for all of the people that came in from out of town for the event and stayed the night.  I had to cook 6 dozen eggs.  They were mostly scramblers, one omelet for my aunt and I did a frittata that was gone before I even got a chance to cut it up.  After brunch and clean up I noticed the wind was offshore and decided to cruise back to the beach to find some surf.  At the moment Manasquan is a deep hole and with the exception of Inlet, which looked weak tiny and kooked out nothing is really breaking.  I ran into Jeffery Myers and he mentioned that Spring Lake and Sea Girt had some better sand.  I happened to have my dad’s car so I cruised to my old stomping ground.  Sure enough there was a fun left coming in and Jeff was on it riding some fun board of his.  He just recently moved back to NJ from Hawaii.  Back  in the day we were sort of surfing rivals.  It was fun to just surf and catch up with all that old shit behind us.  I forgot how many people I know here.  I cant go anywhere with out seeing someone I know.  I have been living in anonymity in Santa Barbara for so long now it has been kind of nice to have some nostalgia.  Shane paddled out.  I always said I did not want to be him in life and as the years have passed I realize it is exactly what I am.  We have a surfing problem and it has cost both of us our entire lives, but if were given the opportunity to do things differently I am pretty sure neither of us would have changed a thing when it came to surfing.  It was a pretty fun surf despite the some what weak waves coming in.   

9/28/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Manasquan, Inlet, Manasquan, NJ
Time in Water: 1 hr 15mins
Waves surfed: 32
After a shit show night of drinking and black out and a half in which my cousin Todd literally had to carry me home on his shoulders the last few blocks I had a late start.  I woke up under my parents dinning room table.  Oh yeah, dollar shots is never a good idea, ever!  I was looking at the surf and there were definitely some waves coming in.  Then my buddy Nick called me and said he was going to Inlet and had a board for me.  I was down.  I called Micaela and she met us along with a few other guys I grew up surfing with.  Rock Piles had a fun left coming in and I went out and frothed the shit out of it.  It was a great session that I had to cut short for my sister’s wedding.   

9/27/12 PM Session: 1-2ft, Riddle Way, Manasquan, NJ
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
I caught the red eye late last night for New Jersey where I arrived to rainy humid conditions which I had not seen in some time.  It figures the surf and weather were great for the last two weeks then I get here and it all goes to shit.  I checked the surf and saw some clean little nuggets coming in off the jetty.  Call it grom nostalgia for my home.  I decided to wax up my stupid fish and get a few.  It was a full on GI Joe session but I had a few and enjoyed myself. Meanwhile I am sure back in the 805 it was another solid morning at River Mouth.

9/26/12 AM Session: 5-7+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
Fucking barrel fest.  By far the biggest heaviest, most hallow day at the River Mouth of the season. I was a bit slow getting down this morning and very sore from all the surfing yesterday.  When I got up on the dunes I could not believe my eyes.  All I saw everywhere was spitting huge open tubes.  I almost fainted.  I ran back to the car, tore on my suit and joined the party.  I did not even do a turn till my 7th wave.  Everything was just a take off right into the pit.  Then the wind kind of got on it and made it a bit harder to get tubed but there were still plenty of heavy double ups that would let you in even if then did not let you out.  I had three where I was in a tube so big I could have drove a Mack truck through them.  Sooo fucking good.  It will make missing a week of solid swell while I am in shitty flat New Jersey tolerable at least.  

9/25/12 PM Session: 4-6+ft, Hollywood by the Sea
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 8
After the Little ‘Con session I was far from satisfied and neither was Devin.  We decided to cruise south and see what we could find with the lower tide.  Hobsons was weak, Pitas crowded and average, Emma too low.  The wind was pretty light so we decided to give Hollywood a peek with all the combo in the water.  It looked a little inconsistent and textured but there were only two guys out and some really solid looking bombs breaking way outside.  Turns out it was really inconsistent making it nearly impossible to line up.  I managed two really good overhead lefts but overall it was a lot of sitting and being out of position.  Some old guy yelled at me for paddling to his peak “Go down the beach man, I live here, go surf with your buddy”.  Like I was taking waves from him it was so all over the place.  Bad attitudes, crowds and lame over hyped up swells.  I guess it is winter time.

9/25/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Little Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 24
Opening day my ass, what a fucking let down.  I got absolutely no sleep last night in total anticipation of getting to surf decent Rincon. As it turns out it was small, weak, inconsistent and crowded at the ‘Con.  I watched it for a solid 45 minutes before resolving to head south and go surf Emma Wood.  I decided to check Little ‘Con just in case.  There was a small wave coming off the rock with three guys out hardly appealing to me.  I was about to drive off when I saw an old friend of mine, Devin.  This guy and I used to surf together everyday when I first moved here five years ago. He moved to LA a few years ago and we lost touch as a result of busy lives and we are not Facebook friends making contact tough.  He was going to paddle and knowing I was probably going to most likely just drive around for another hour anyway joined him.  At the very least I could catch up with an old friend.  It was pretty horrible, then it got crowded.  I did manage to sneak in a few good ones during the middle of the session.  

9/24/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I guess I sort of blew it this morning.  Before I went to sleep I checked the buoys and they were really small.  After the terrible session I had endured Sunday morning I just was not up for another shitty surf.  I opted to sleep in and get some well needed beauty rest.  Then I found out later that some front runners of the first NW of the season were showing and New Jetty was fun. Oh well I wanted to rest up for the swell anyway.   Opening Day baby!

9/23/12 AM Session: 1-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 17
I went out to the Wild Cat last night.  It was a good time, tons of friends out.  I met a cool Swedish girl I hope to see again.  Then I woke up and went for a surf.  It was absolutely the worst gutless tiny surf ever. I was tired and hungover.  I managed a few ok ones but overall was not feeling it.  

9/22/12 AM Session: 2-4ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Believe it or not I did not go out and party last night.  I could not find anyone interested in getting gnarly.  As a result I stayed in and chilled allowing me to be in top shape for a morning session.  I was not expecting much but then the Jetty was clean and decent.  The crowd was there, but it was a Saturday.  I still had a bit of trouble finding my rhythm.  This older guy paddled up to me mid session and told me he really enjoys watching me surf and that it reminded him of the days when he was on it.   I  know I do not really care about accolade in surfing these days yet every now and again it is nice to know that I can still keep up a bit.   

9/21/12 AM Session: 2-4ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 50mins
Waves Surfed: 30
I must say I woke up a bit torn up after downing an entire bottle cabernet sauvignon last night.  I cruised to the Jetty again.  There was still plenty of swell with just a little bit of texture.  There was a good amount of people on it, but it was mostly just locals and all guys I know and surf with.  Everyone was taking turns and having a great time.  Dane paddled out and he was super respectful as always.  I was getting great waves except not surfing up to my ability.  My boards are so battered right now it is starting to frustrate me.  I called Jason today and ordered a new 5’10.

9/20/12 PM: Session: 2-4ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 30mins
Waves Surfed: 30
I had to work the grill this morning after a Wednesday night dinner that was a success as usual.  I did up Philly cheese steaks, sweet potato wedges and my papaya anise asparagus salad.  It was a hit.  After work I cruised to the jetty which was all blow out but Jersey kill-able.  There were a few heads out but plenty of waves. Dane was out hating it.  Then Mike McKay and the Fox crew paddled out and the line up became clogged.   Still I got my share and had some fun.  

9/19/12 AM Session: 2-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 34
The swell we were all expecting today was clouded by heavy wind out in the channel busting it up.  I checked the Harbor and it was “bad river” as my friend Denis put it.  When its bad there its unridable.  New Jetty looked a little fat but do-able.  I was about to paddle it when I saw about another eight guys show up and get dressed.  It was inconsistent already and with the tide only to get worse.  I saw a few at Emma when I was driving down and went back there.  It was average but there were definitely some bowls.  The Coffin brothers were on the toll booth peak.  I saw some left wedges in front of the life guard tower where I like to sit anyway.  I got out there and started getting some really good lefts and some rights.  Dane showed up for his usual thirty minutes of Emma.  Then right at the end of the session my boy Robbie paddled out.  I was going to stay and surf longer but then I lucked  into this good right and stuck a huge reo on my back hand.  I was getting tired anyway and already regretted not getting out on a giant fs lay back a few waves prior, decided it was time to call it.  

9/18/12 AM Session: 1-2ft, River Mouth
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 15
I should know by now that as fast as tropical swells roll in that is as fast as they roll out.  Lindsay and I cruised south with small expectations but the assumption we would find something worth our time.  Emma was terrible.  The top of C street looked doable till this Japanese guy who trains surfers showed up with a six pack of annoying groms clogging the already too crowded line up for what was coming in.  Desperate we went to the harbor which was also pathetic and very swampy with the tide.  On a hail Mary we walked down to River Mouth were we found some barely ride able shore break.  Some how we did manage to have fun even if it was just the entertainment of each other’s company and stupidity.

9/17/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Gold Coast
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
What a fun ass surf courtesy of more tropical action.  Its seems like all the best swells this summer were thanks to cyclones.  I started at Ventura harbor but it was all swampy with the tide at New Jetty and I could not judge River Mouth.  I had seen some good ones at Emma and went back there.  As I was checking Emma I noticed some decent looking lines coming in at Gold Coast, which loves these short period tropical swells.   I pulled up near the concrete retainer wall in the middle of the beach and picked a really fun peak.  For a change I was surfing incredible and the crowd was easy and fun as it usually is there.  Some how I pulled a front side submersible reverse.  I think I have only stuck maybe three of those in my entire life.  Nothing like a good day of surfing even if they are few an far between these days.

9/16/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I could have surfed today and that was the initial plan but instead I got coaxed into going out to the Wild Cat with my boy Axel Saturday night.  It was suppose to be a light night, then two rum and cokes and a double tequila shot later I was hammered.  I got home and my college neighbors were still raging so I went over there.  Eventually we all came back to my apartment cause they ran out of booze and pot.  I woke up on my couch fully dressed at 11:30 and had to go to work.  I heard some tropical swell filled in and it was pretty fun form several sources.  Isn’t alcoholism grand…

9/15/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Got fucking hammered at the Wild Cat.  I am talking shit house drunk.  I went out with a group of cats I work with. I am pretty sure everyone had a good time.  Then some how the door knob broke on my bathroom and I got locked in there.  It sucked and I had to climb out the window to escape, but for the night I slept on the floor in there.  I guess I need to get a new door knob…

9/14/12 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 22
Well there was suppose to be an increase in swell and Santa Anna winds. Instead the swell stayed the same with hard NW winds turning everything to shit.  New Jetty was crowded as hell with groms once again cause apparently there is an NSSA Saturday and Sunday.  It looked like shit anyway.  I went to Emma which was far from good. My friend Robbie and I desperation paddled it.  Besides one left I really locked into the sess was trash.  At work my fucking boss forgot to put my vacation time in so I got cheesed on something like $400. Asshole only has a few tasks to do and he cant even get them right.  I am marching in his office first thing Monday and demanding he rectify it or I am going to file a grievance with HR.  Tonight a bunch of coworkers and I are going to get gnarly at the Wild Cat.  Whooot!

9/13/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 15mins
Waves surfed: 22
It didn’t take long for the crowd to show up.  Word travels really fast when good sand is found in a wave staved surf society.  I pulled up to New Jetty around 9:30 and it was fucking packed with tons of home schooled groms and their coaches and filmers and all the other crapola that entails.  Then there was myself, Ryan and a hand full of other frustrated locals all battling for inconsistent mushy waves off the Jetty.  It took me almost a half hour to get my first wave.  Over it and not having tons of time before work I paddled to the inside and middle of the beach with the Japo’s, yes they are back in full force for the season, colored wetties and all.  I ended up getting some decent lefts and rights in there.  There you have it folks the California dream personified: mediocre crowed inconsistent waves.  Yes!!!!!!! I love this fucking place, maybe as much as anal warts.  Then work sucked cause they are putting in a new plumbing system and I had to listen to eight hours of jack hammering no further then three feet from my work station.  Needless to say I am on my 2nd glass of wine and already feeling mildly better.  I wish Kooky Kyle were here so we could go out to the Wild Cat and get gnarly.  

9/12/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
New Jetty is back baby.  I had heard rumors in my long hiatus from surfing that it was the case.   Then on Tuesday my friend Lindsay confirmed it.  I decided I would wake up and see for myself if it was true.  Expecting a lie and then a subsequent terrible Emma Wood session I climbed the dunes in low spirits.  Especially since the wind was whipping out of the west.  Sure enough I saw a set of chest high waves break off the jetty and just peel.  Stoked I called my boy Ryan and it was on.  The crowd was about eight strong but everyone was taking turns.  I was surfing really well although found that my lack of surfing had left me out of shape and struggling in the paddling department. Serves me right for nearly three weeks of drinking, partying and sloth.  After the session I went to the Ventura swap meet where I scored a boss ass lamp for my living room $15, an alarm clock $3, “Breakfast and Tiffany’s” and “The Young Frankenstein” $1 and Candide and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn $1.  What a score.  Then I had my dinner party which was ten strong including myself.  I served Chicken Parm over Linguine Rigati with garlic bread and stuffed apples for desert.  It was a fine evening.   

9/11/12 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Gudalupe Dunes
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves surfed: 34
See blog: Lemonade out of Lemons

9/10/12 No  Surfing: 1-2ft
I woke up, checked the report and was less then motivated to drive to bad conditions.  I am going to go up to Jalama tomorrow with this dude Pat who contacted me on Facebook about surfing in the 805.  Turns out he got my info from this dude No Friends that I used to surf with a ton back in the day in NJ.  Pat recently moved to Port Hueneme and I can always use a Jalama buddy to reduce the odds of getting munched.  The forecast looks really good for up there and I heard both the sand and kelp are perfect.  Looking forward to a really fun day of surfing.

9/9/12 No Surfing: 1-2ft
So there I found myself in a familiar situation as the sun was coming up and I was taking another shot.  That may be one of the few things I actually do remember about last night prior to the Jello shots.  It was my friend Ashley’s birthday and we had bottle service at Tonic.  I know not my scene but like I said it was her birthday.  Thats all I really remember.  Somehow I got home not too sure how, when or why.  I was definitely in bad shape for work at 12pm.  It was a cutting glove day that is for sure.   So much for progress.  Three steps forward ten steps back?  FML.

9/8/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I need to just face that facts that I don’t surf anymore.  I said in yesterday’s entry I would surf this morning depending on how things went at the Wild Cat last night.  It was a fun night out, good to catch up with everyone.  Ended up taking home this chick I hooked up with a few weeks ago.  Hate to say it but it was prob better then anything I was going to get to surf today.

9/7/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
After the terrible session I had yesterday I just could not get motivated to even entertain a surf this morning.  Also I came home to a very flea infested Alfie and needed to give him a serious flea bath to his chagrin.  Then I applied on his flea meds as well.  I think he is doing better tonight.  Depending how tonight goes at the Wild Cat I may or may not force myself to surf tomorrow.

9/6/12 PM Session: 1-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 25
Im really stoked everyone got to enjoy great waves while I was away on both the East and West coasts.  I enjoyed none.  I was determined to surf after work today and with that I cruised south.  The wind was light so I drove to the harbor which was semi-trash but from the looks of the River Mouth more trouble then it was worth.  There were a few guys trying to surf the wedge at south jetty, but that looked very tricky at best.  I cruised to Emma which may have been one of the worst days I have ever surfed the place.  At least I got wet right?

9/5/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
I got into SB at around 5:30 and it was raining.  When I got home to my apartment it was a mess and needed some serious tlc.  Rather than chase some average at best surf I decided to give the place a nice cleaning.  Then I enjoyed a $5 foot long from Subway since its their birthday month meaning $5 foot longs all month!  Oh yeah Baby!!!

9/4/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
Still in Portland and still not surfing and missing it.  Whoooooooooot!

9/3/12 No Surfing: 3-4ft
Figures one of the better souths of the season hits while I am away.  I don’t think there has ever been a time that I have left Santa Barbara and there has not been some type of swell or another.

9/2/12 No Surfing: 3-5ft
Oh man reading that report hurt like acid in my mouth.  

9/1/12 No Surfing: 3-5ft
Guess that south swell showed up just as predicted. FML.