Ding Repair also available
October 2026 Surf Sessions
10-28-26 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Sanjon Rd, Ventura State e n
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 26
I’ve lived and have been surfing in this area of California for over twenty years now. The idea that somehow I managed to surf a wave in Ventura that I have never surfed before seems improbable. That is exactly what happened this morning. AJ and I headed back to Ventura Harbor hoping either the Mouth had made a bar or that New Jetty would be fun. Neither panned out as the Mouth was not happening and New Jetty was absolutely packed. We headed up to Ventura Point, which would have been fun had the tide not been so darn high. On the way I noticed some peaky rip-able looking waves at the State beach just south of the Ventura Pier off of Sanjon Road. We went back and paddled. Jeffery met us. It appeared the little creak that runs into that beach had opened and made a decent bar. At the very least it was channeling fun waist plus lefts and rights. I got on a real tear and destroyed the tiny offerings. Small weird waves have always been my bread and butter after all. I must have driven past that wave hundreds of times over the years and never gave it a look. Sometimes necessity is the mother of invention and with a little thinking outside of the box we had a micro score. The rest of my day was spent fixing dings.
10-27-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 18
High tide is starting to become my faithful companion. There was a drop in the south swell but a rise in some short period NW wind swell. Yesterday evening on my way home from the surfboard factory I noticed that the Santa Clara River Mouth had opened up. Hoping for a bar AJ and I headed to Ventura Harbor. Though the Mouth was flowing a sand bar had not formed and all that was on offer was unsurfable shore pound. New Jetty had chest high peaky waves up and down the beach with a very light crowd for that spot, maybe fifteen guys out. Set waves were very inconsistent and the tide was basically too high for the small ones. The water extremely dirty thanks to the mouth opening. It appeared a bunch of sizable freshwater fish, maybe Steele Head must have got washed out of the fresh water of the Santa Clara River and died when they hit the salt water of the ocean. There were sea birds everywhere too. Western grebes littered the lineup, pelicans were floating searching for a meal as were countless terns and gulls. At the very least they gave me something to watch considering how slow the sets were. Dimitri paddled out and completely destroyed anything that came in his path. That guy is probably Venturas next hope for a serious WCT competitor and he still is carrying no major sponsor. What’s wrong with the surf industry these days? My boy Bryce showed up with his family and paddled as well. To my credit I had a number of fun lefts and rights and even stuck a decent backside air reverse. At my age anytime I stick an air it’s noteworthy. After the surf I had to finished sanding Kevin Angers Clarks Surfboards Hacksaw Model so he can take it with him on his El Salvador trip next week. If you’re reading this and your board is lagging you can blame him.
10-26-26 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 40
Small waves and an extreme six and half foot tide that thanks to the Kelvin wave felt more like a seven foot tide left very few options. Hueneme was way too high. AJ and I headed south on a wing and a prayer. Leo had its gnarly small wave high tide under the rock wedge wave working. When that’s happening I think it’s more fun than when the actual rock breaks. There were also some lefts to be had going into the Bone Yard as well. I got on an absolute tear and had a blast. The new Clarks Surfboards Bizzle Model I shaped myself was working perfectly in the fat high tide conditions. My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards.
10-25-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
High tide and a significant drop in swell pretty much left Hueneme as my only option for my limited time window. I had to be in Santa Barbara for a wedding at 12:30. The pier was still a shore break waste land. In the last five years I’ve come to love that wave. Not having it has been really tough. The wash had a wave but AJ quickly reminded how terrible our last couple surfs have been there. Out of options we ran down to Rockside where there were some high tide backwash riddled shore break wedges good for on quick turn. The wind was light offshore and there were five guys out all dudes I’m friendly with. The surf was nothing spectacular but I had a few fun wiggles. Rest of my afternoon/evening was spent giving the gift of culinary delight to a lucky group of wedding enthusiasts.
10-24-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 10
This morning was almost a mirror of yesterday only smaller and less consistent. The six foot tide was smack in the middle of my session and played a serious roll in making the first half a sleeper. Towards the back half a little shore break wave began throwing over and I packed a handful of fun little tubes. My wife and son showed up for my last few waves and we got a quick little bit of family beach time in before I had to run up to Santa Barbara to work a wedding.
10-23-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 10
There was light offshore wind on tap with waning swell and a six foot high tide. AJ and I headed over to Shores to for a look. There were mixed high tide peaks up and down the beach with a dozen guys spread out. We paddled our own little peak by the Hotel. The first half hour was pretty fat and slow thanks to the tide. As the tide dropped the waves improved and even began to barrel. It was a rip fest with playful sections and fun little tubes, a nice change from all the critical surf we were subjected to earlier in the week. I was a little tired from Leo the past two days and accidentally grabbed my 4/3, which made me very stiff as I haven’t worn it since the spring. Between being tired and the suit I felt behind the eight ball the entire session. After the surf I had brunch with my wife. The rest of my afternoon was spent glassing surfboards.
10-22-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 42
Storm days around here are about lucking into the right windows. The wind is constantly changing direction all day as the front moves. If you time it all correctly you can score something very special that usually is pretty uncrowded. Yesterday at Leo I got some of that luck. This morning the wind was pretty terrible, stiff WNW in both the Ventura and Malibu Zones. In my current 9am to 12 pm window Leo seemed like the best option. When AJ and I got there, though somewhat wind sheltered the waves were still rather chopped up. No one was out and there were chest plus lines running down the point. To get Leo empty in today’s surfing world is nearly impossible. We paddled and had the place to ourselves for a solid half hour. Then three other guys paddled but there was still plenty of waves to go around. Some idiot decided to paddle out and try to give a surf lesson directly inside of the rock basically being completely in the way on every wave that came in. For a few waves I was a nice guy about it. Finally I almost collided with this pair and at that point I gave them a talking to and they went down the beach. I’d like to think they were oblivious but the guy giving the lesson knew better and just didn’t care. A classic sign of the times and the younger generation. Maybe I’m just be coming an old grumpy fart. The session was far from great but definitely fun enough. I heard later that there was a sick mid morning window over at Ventura Point. I had to work a catering gig in the evening in Carpinteria but ended up getting a flat tire on the way. The 2017-2024 series of Honda Civic Si are super prone to flats. Whenever I meet another driver they all say the same thing about the unbelievable amount of flats. I must get a flat every other month. My car doesn’t have room for a spare cause it’s a sports car thus I’m S.O.L every time. All I can say is that my AAA Plus membership is invaluable. So I basically lost money today cause I didn’t get any surfboard work done and I couldn’t get to my catering job, which I did find coverage for. I never leave anyone hanging. Ultimately I had to buy a $200 tire and lost work from both my jobs to boot.
10-21-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 42
My nanny had been detained this morning forcing me to have a later start than I would have liked. Though with the rain storm bearing down on us she did me a favor cause the wind went junky early at the Oxnard beaches and I didn’t get stuck out there for like yesterday. Instead AJ and I headed to Leo Carrillo where the wind was straight off shore and there were clean lines running down the point. I think it may have been the only time I have surfed there with offshore winds. Zach showed up while we were changing and the three of us got busy destroying the perfectly groomed rights. The crowd was definitely on it but there were also enough waves to allow for a decent enough flow. I got a handful of really fun runners. My afternoon was spent glassing Surfboards.
10-20-26 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 12
The swell was down just a tad from yesterday with very clean conditions. After checking both Hollywood and Shores AJ and I paddled the Hotel. The waves though smaller were a bit more stretched than yesterday and with the size drop it was harder to make the barrel through some of the more racy ones. I got one phenomenal tube on my second wave after getting completely tossed on my first wave. Then the wind came up stiff out of the SW making conditions even more challenging. I fought the good fight but ultimately came out wanting. I was also feeling rather depleted from the previous day’s heroics. My afternoon was spent working a corporate cocktail mixer in Goleta.
10-19-26 AM Session: 6-8+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 12
Today was serious. Conditions were no joke and the risk factor out there was high. Surfline was without a doubt down playing the swell. As I stood there on the dunes at the Hotel and watched incredible double overhead plus tubes spitting up and down the beach I was sorry that I left my step up at home. At the very least I had my 5’9 Hacksaw Model from Clarks Surfboards which has seen me through many heavy days over the years. AJ and I paddled directly in front of the Hotel and Bizarro came and filmed. I had about five incredible tubes and one wave was even a double barrel. I also had some real beatings too. Unlike, Wednesday last week where just about every wave was perfect today they were way more dumpy, stretched and there was a good amount of backwash as well. You had to stroke as hard as you could to catch them then knife your board under the lip. My friend Bryan snapped his board right in front of me and I’m sure lots of other boards were claimed as well. The whole session was a complete sensory overload for me and I was actually left a little depressed from firing on so many cylinders. Call it a case of too much adrenaline. My afternoon was spent fixing dings.
10-18-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 10
I had a very short window as I needed to be in Santa Barbara to work a wedding at 10:30. Sunday weddings are usually earlier days. I was bummed cause Sundays my wife and I take Adagio to the beach and he loves it. With such a tight window I was out of the house by 7:30 and in the water at 8am. There was a rise in SW/NW combo swell with light offshore winds. Word was out cause guys were everywhere from Hollywood to Shores. AJ and I found ourselves a peak just north of the hotel in Hollywood that was adequate. The thing about south swells is that it always looks better up the beach so everyone is constantly paddling south. Meanwhile I just let them all clump up on one bar while I sit alone a peak or two down scoring. Most sets were pretty stretched and shrinking in the tube making exits difficult. If you had patience there would be one or two that would channel the combo just right and be a draining tube. I lucked into five of these. That was all I needed to get me through the rest of my day. No matter how stressful my gig gets I can just close my eyes and see that tunnel vision from earlier. Surfing is the greatest and worst activity all at the same time and that’s why I love it and hate it, quite the paradox.
10-17-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 2
Hueneme was a bad choice. I was short on time and let that govern my decision on where to paddle. It appeared from the pier that the wash had some running lefts with offshore winds. Once in front of the bar the wind was more cross shore and the waves almost completely walled. The ones that did peel were very mushy. There was a stiff current pulling north too. With the exception of a floater and a hit the session was a complete bust. I hate wasting good wind and waves. The rest of my day was spent working wedding up in Gaviota.
10-16-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 18
The Santa Ana event was still in full force this morning with easily 40 mph gusts. The swell had dropped another notch and coupled with a steadily rising tide made finding something to surf very tricky. Taking the conditions into consideration Ventura Harbor seemed to make to most sense as our first check. Rivermouth had solid chest to head plus drainers coming through. It was a bit difficult to tell how good it actually was because a huge berm has built up on the beach making it hard to see the waves even break from the dunes. We took the leap of faith suited and walked. Once down by the Mouth there were a handful of distinct bars with a few guys on each one. Sets were definitely chest plus and throwing barrels. The hard part was catching and dropping in with the extreme wind gusts. I ate shit hard on my first one trying to get under the lip and got hung up and went straight on my second one. After that I made the necessary adjustments and began getting properly tubed. It was still doing its thing when we left but there is only so long one can take being sand and wind blasted and I had my fill. After the surf I did brunch with my lovely wife followed by a stop at the Hueneme Navy base to renew our golf passes that we seldom use these days. The rest of my afternoon was spent shaping surfboards in my extremely hot garage.
10-15-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 43
Insanity was the call today considering the intensity of the Santa Ana winds. My first check was Hueneme. With the drop in swell and all the excessive high tides I had high hopes that maybe some new bars had formed. Unfortunately there weren’t any and the winds were blowing more cross shore than offshore due to Hueneme’s south facing coastline. AJ and I hightailed it over to The Hotel because I got a favorable report. Once there the wind had slackened and was feeling like it may go onshore. The wind was still blowing hard offshore down south. There was plenty of south swell in the water so that’s the direction we headed. After checking everything to Zeros, County posed the best wave, chest to head plus. Unfortunately most of the sets were pretty stretched and the wind was blowing a little cross shore on the rights. That being said I noticed a fast but do-able running right on the inside of the point. No one was out and we took full advantage of it. After my first few waves I must have made it look too much fun cause five guys paddled and sat right on us. None of them were able to catch any waves but they definitely got in the way and on my nerves. Over it I paddled over to the beach break where there was a fast barreling left and I got a few there. Lo and behold those five guys quickly followed me over there to once again not catch any waves. For the rest of my session these kooks proceeded to follow me around the line up. As I was getting out this heavy set older gentleman was swimming on the inside and got pile drived by a dumpy shore break wave. It laid him out flat on the beach and he was not getting up. Some other dude came running down from the parking lot but the dude on the ground didn’t want our help. We left him and eventually he got himself up. In the evening I had to work an event at a Montecito mega mansion.
10-14-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 12
I like everyone else within a fifty mile radius of the Oxnard beaches expected this morning to be just as spectacular as yesterday. Surfline was claiming it was supposed to be. Like I always say one never will see the same day of surf twice. Though conditions were near perfect yet again the swell was half the size, more inconsistent and triple the crowd. There had to be five hundred surfers from Hollywood to Fifth Street. Unlike yesterday there weren’t as many bars working forcing everyone to clump up. After driving around between Hollywood and Shores AJ and I decided that Hollywood had the best wave to crowd ration and the best shape. Though I had a negative attitude going into the session I came out all smiles. I packed a handful of decent tubes and had a grip of good turns and hits as well. If it wasn’t for yesterday I’d have been super stoked on today’s waves. My afternoon was spent fixing dings.
10-13-26 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 12
The older I get the harder it is for me to actually credit a day as epic or all time. This morning I have to award such a distinction. The Oxnard beaches were about as good as they get. AJ and I paddled the southern most part of the beach at Oxnard Shores where we found a barreling peak to ourselves. This was a feat in itself since everywhere was packed. I guess no one works anymore. Bizarro showed up and a tube session ensued. I can’t remember the last time I got so many overhead barrels. Everywhere you looked someone was getting spit out of the tube. It was pretty heavy on some, borderline making me wish I had my step up. I suppose it’s about time I set that board up. The wind stayed offshore till about noon before going south then WNW. I would have been stoked to have gotten one more hour out there but I can’t complain about the window I did get. If I had to rate the session I’d say it was in my top five of the summer/fall season. Maybe top ten for the 2026! I’m not one to claim a surf but this was near epic. The rest of my afternoon was spent fixing dings. By the time I finished cooking dinner and getting my son into bed I was completely exhausted and passed out on the couch.
10-12-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 41
There was still plenty of swell in the water but also a bit of channel chop and steadily building NW wind in Ventura. The call was to head south. Every line up down to Zeros was pretty swamped with the extreme high tide. Leo was packed as usual and underwhelming. AJ and I settled on County where there were solid chest to head high plus waves coming down the point with only about five guys on it. With the north wind blowing the air was pretty chilly thus I opted to put on my 4/3 and it was a good call cause sets were very inconsistent. When a set did come through it was about eight waves strong and very powerful despite the six foot tide. I got a couple of screamers though the majority were pretty wonky and close to the cliff because the tide was so high. At one point an entire chunk of said cliff fell into the ocean. I’d say it was a fun surf. Being that it was Columbus Day my wife had off and we decided to spend the day together. After lunch she wanted to go to the movies and watch the Practical Magic sequel. Normally I’m adamant about not wasting the money or time. Now that I’m a parent I recognize the beautiful solace of peace and quiet that a dark movie theater can provide. The film itself was mildly entertaining. I thought it may have been better than the first one, not that I cared for either film. My wife loves the first one and as a result I have been frequently subjected to it. Finally we enjoyed a repast a Brophies in Ventura Harbor before heading home to our baby.
10-11-26 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 40
It’s been a minute since we have experienced a strong coastal gale and probably the first signs of fall actually settling in. I finally had a day off and I decided that I wasn’t going to do any business, be it surfboards or food. Considering the wind and the fact that there was still plenty of south swell in the water I loaded up my family and we headed to Leo Carrillo. This was Adagio’s first time at the fabled wave. Someday he will most likely be jockeying for position behind the rock like his old man but for today he just had a blast running up and down the beach and even jumped into the creek. Meanwhile AJ and I joined the crowd playing our hand in the chest to head high plus messy side shore conditions. I got into the zone and just dominated anything that I thought was going to be a runner. Half of what I caught was pretty flat but the ones that did stand up were super fun. The Kelvin Wave is also in full effect which has risen the sea level nearly a foot higher than usual. Coupled with the heavy tropical storms the tide was so high that the Leo rock was just barely peaking out of the water. The ocean was muddy brown due to all the cliff that have been falling down up and down the coast. At Thornhill along the PCH it’s down to one lane because the high tide is just coming over the break wall onto road and causing a tide pool to form on the other side. I’m really beginning to believe this El Niño is going to be something to be reckoned with. I’m glad that I’m still young enough and strong enough to meet its challenges. After the surf we got some lunch and headed out to Adagio to Underwood farm in Moorpark. Bizarro came along took some wonderful family pictures of us. I’d say it was a very nice day off.
10-10-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 10
After yesterday I was set on heading back to the Hotel. Though still clean the ocean had some definite funk on it courtesy of the very short period wind swell that had developed overnight. The waves were almost too peaky. I had a very short window having yet another catering gig in Santa Barbara thus AJ and I paddled. Ryan came out and met us as well. Once again there was way too much backwash and at times it was larger than the actual waves we were trying to surf. The first half hour was super rip-able albeit tricky. Then it steadily deteriorated from there. Also it feels like all the bars we have been enjoying the past two weeks had taken a beating from yesterday’s swell and the magic might have come to an end. One of the aspects of surfing that makes it so special is how fast all the elements can change. I guess I’m on the hunt for the next decent sand bar yet again. The rest of my day was spent working a wedding in Goleta. When I showed up and learned that the rental company forgot to bring me an oven. With a little luck, creativity and experience I was somehow able to pull it off.
10-9-26 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 10
There was plenty of swell out there with multiple south swells, tropical leftovers and some minor WNW swell. The wind was very light in comparison to the past few days making the call to head over and look at Hollywood. The bars there were looking rather swamped with the fat high tide. We went over to the Hotel where it seemed the sand banks have favored the higher tides. It was solid head to overhead out there and clean. AJ and I saw some dude pull into a stand up tube and come out, which had us running back to the car to change. I knew the wind wasn’t going to last and there was no time to waste. Bizarro showed up to film and it was on. Once out there it became steadily apparent that conditions were much more heavy and stretched than we had anticipated. There was also a good deal of back wash coming at us as well. Needless to say it was some very challenging surf. That being said there were some real gems to be rustled up. I had a few quick in and out tubes that I just barely escaped from doggy door. I had some pretty heavy wipe outs too. The wind held back for about an hour and then solely build in strength till the surf was somewhat blown out. I’ll take it. The rest is my afternoon was spent working a 240 person charity event in Santa Barbara.
10-8-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Ventura Point
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 30
There was all kinds of swell in the water. Of course there was also junky onshore wind at first light. Hueneme was my first stop and though solid overhead the waves were just stretched, dumpy and disorganized. AJ and I decided to head north considering the wind also looked bad down south. A quick check over at the Pierpont jetties proved fruitless. We went back to Emma where we surfed yesterday. Dane and his crew were on it and it was fraction of what we had surfed yesterday. Ultimately I did what I always do what I get skunked up north. I went and surfed Ventura Point. There was plenty of swell getting in and the wind was manageable. We paddled and Bryce met us. They stayed mostly up top, while I focused my session at Pipes. The crowd was pretty heavy making catching my usual quota of waves not a possibility. That being said I still got my share of runners down the point. The rest of my day was spent working a catering gig up near Solvang.
10-7-26 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 28
There was a rise in the SE swell from Rachel. Unfortunately there was shitty WNW with it making for less than perfect conditions. Our first stop was at Shores but the winds did not leave us stoked on it. Jeffery was at Emma Wood and said that the northern most part of the beach had some solid left wedges coming through with eight guys on it. That is one of my favorite waves in Ventura when a SE swell is showing. AJ and I headed up and sure enough there were heavy chest to head plus angry looking wedges. There was definitely still a bit of wind on it but out of options we paddled. After my first few waves I decided I was under gunned on my 5’7 and ran back and got my 5’9 Clarks Surfboards Hacksaw Model, my trusted stead when waves get critical. Even with its help reading the waves was tough with all the water moving around. I did manage two proper tubes. Overall it was more work than reward out there. My afternoon was spent working a catering gig in Carpinteria.
10-6-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 72
Considering the high tide Hueneme was AJ and my first check and it was surprisingly solid head high plus. In classic Hueneme fashion it was also walled and dumpy with funky wind. South was the call once again though all our usual haunts were very underwhelming and crowded. The Surfline cam up at third peak looked decent enough and had a very light crowd. The River Mouth there was recently opened all the way up by third point and I was very curious to see how the sand was shaping up. I must say it was the best Third Point I have surfed in maybe three years as far as shape goes. The right was good for three to five plus turns and there was even a kill-able left also. I forgot how much that wave lends itself to high performance surfing. One of the hardest sacrifices I have had to make since my son being born is not having the time to go surf waves like Malibu on the regular like I used to. The high price of gasoline doesn’t help either. My best wave I managed to stick a solid backside gap air and comboed it with a big tail free hit. What a fun session. The rest of my day was spent fixing dings.
10-5-26 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 52
Hoping for similar if not better conditions than yesterday AJ and I headed back to the Hotel. Though the wind was offshore there seemed to be less swell showing. The high tide wasn’t helping either. We decided to head down south hoping to catch a bit more swell. After checking everything down to Zeros we decided to paddle Leo. Though a bit inconsistent the crowd to wave ratio to ability of the surfers out was in our favor. For the first half of the session I was stoked getting one on the outside than sneaking another insider under priority. Then these two assholes paddled out and immediately changed the vibe as they continuously back paddled everyone. At that point the line up became a free for all. When this happens I post myself up as close to rock as possible waiting my turn. It worked out because my last wave was a chest high nine turn right down the point that may have been the wave of the day. At the very least it was the wave of my session. The rest of my day was spent fixing surfboards.
10-4-26 AM Session: 2-3 ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 12
We had some nice clean offshore winds and a tad more south swell showing this morning. The shape at Hueneme was looked too stretched and dumpy. AJ and I decided to head over to Oxnard Shores for a look. The Hotel had a series of decent bars with fun looking in consistent waist to occasionally chest high A-frames on tap. It was already over 80F out which provoked AJ to bare back it. Me being the wuss for cold water that I am pulled on my 3/2 cause I forgot my 2mm shorty at home. There were a handful of guys spread out among the many peaks. Both of us got our share of fun rip-able waves. AJ did one of the best turns I have seen him do. My injury was feeling much better. I didn’t even take any Ibuprofen before paddling and still felt good after the session. I guess I’m finally on the mend. That injury was a little bit scary. I had a catering gig in Montecito and it was 98 F at the peak of the day. Even Hueneme was in the 90’s. Talk about a heat wave.
10-3-26 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
I had a very short window and an early start to this mornings surf thanks to having to work a big fundraiser up at Sand Piper Golf Course in Goleta. Considering how meager conditions were I was borderline considering just shining the surf all together. AJ and I did see a few left and right hand waist plus corners off of the south side of the pier. Life is always better after a surf so we decided to jump in. The waves were tiny. We have really taken for granted what a consistent summer it was cause last year we still would have been pumped on the tiny waves we were surfing. The shape was a bit stretched and dumpy due to the lack of a decent bar. I did catch one fun left off the pier that I got a head dip to close out section hit on and one right that I had a solid bash. It was enough to keep the stoke alive. I got home and this dude Stephan who ordered a Clarks Surfboards Mr. Pocket model from me was poking his head over my fence to pick up his new board. Talk about perfect timing. He was super stoked. Then I grabbed Bizarro and cruised up to Goleta where we had to work a 300 person fundraiser in the Exteme heat wave that the entire California coast has been experiencing. Everything went down well enough. I got home just in time to meet up with my friend Bryce and stoke him out with his new Clarks Surfboards Fun Zone Model. Stoking two guys out in one day, that’s every shapers dream. If you want a custom surfboard hit me up prices still start at $625. I promise it’s a way more special experience than going through one of the big name brands.
10-2-26 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 2
More small waves were on tap this morning. I saw a few decent looking bowls on Rockside that had AJ and I making the walk. Once over there were greeted by inconsistent waist to chest high peaks that were a little racy for the size. For whatever reason my board felt like I had waxed it with a bar of soap. I literally slipped off on more than half my rides. The other half that I did connect with allowed for some decent turns. After the surf my wife and I took Adagio for his first hair cut. After the obligatory screaming he calmed down and walked out of there quite the handsome little gentleman. The rest of my evening was spent sanding surfboards.
10-1-26 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 38
I can’t believe it’s already October first. Where did the time go? To think before I was a parent time seemed to elude me. Now it’s so far ahead of me I don’t believe I’ll ever be able to catch up. Parenting is by far the hardest thing I have ever had to endure. Only 16 years and 9 months to go. At the rate time is passing it will be here faster than it seems. Hueneme was tiny and had junky shape. It appears the bars are on the decline yet again and they had barely just arrived. AJ and I headed to County Line where we were pleasantly surprised by chest high rights breaking off the Point with a handful of guys out and clean conditions. The only bummer was that it was very inconsistent and the steadily rising tide was definitely putting a damper on it. That being said we both got lots of good waves. I boosted and landed my first air since my injury and though the landing hurt I was stoked to have pulled it off. There is still a lot of healing to go before I’m 100%, but at least I’m making a little bit more progress everyday. The rest of my afternoon was spent sanding and glassing surfboards.
