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Surfing Ruined My Life

One delusional surfer's quixotic journey through life.

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November ‘26

Custom Hand Shaped Surfboards by Chris Lisanti made in California starting at $625. Surf Board Glassing
Ding Repair also available

November 2026 Surf Sessions

11-2-26 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 10
There was a solid rise in South swell comboed with some short period NW wind swell.  This made for some peaky conditions at all the Oxnard and VTA beaches.  Hollywood had some throaty heaving wedges coming in towards the south end of the beach.  AJ and I paddled while Bizzaro filmed.  Jeffery also joined the party.  The waves were chest to head high plus and perfectly groomed with light offshore wind, ultimately turning oil glass towards the back half of the surf.  It was heavy out there with most waves going below sea level thanks to the dropping tide.  What a  trip to be surfing during low tide since it felt like the tide has been high for the past month.  I had some really special tubes and some really shitty beatings.  My last wave was a stupid drainer that I air dropped below sea level into the tube, got spit out then smashed the end section.  I’d say it was one of the better sessions I’ve had in a minute.  The weather was sunny and 75F and the water still in the low 70’s as well.  It’s November 2nd! What a day. My afternoon was spent fixing dings. I’ll be back in the glass shop tomorrow working on new boards. I’m stoked because though ding work is a great source of income I’d rather be building new boards.

11-1-26 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 41
Yesterday’s front had passed and with it came the usual NW coastal gale.  AJ and I headed to Leo Carrillo because there was more south swell in the water than NW swell.  My thinking was between the worry of dirty runoff from the rain, the cold wind and the low tide we might luck into a window.  I was wrong and the place was packed.  There had to be at least forty guys sitting on the rocks.  We had a look at Zeros which at the moment was clean with a little cross shore wind on it.  I knew it was going to blow out pretty fast but decided to just go for it.  We got about thirty minutes before the line up became complete trash.  Even with the wind there were still a few sections to hit despite the VAS conditions.  It was pretty terrible but at least we surfed. I went home and made some chicken soup for lunch for my family followed by a romp at the park for Adagio.  My evening was spent working a catering event at UCSB.

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