Surfing Ruined My Life

July 2024 Surf Sessions

7-31-24 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 42
The wind was up early in Ventura and Oxnard yet again. I got word that Zeros looked decent but that the Jr. Guards were doing there thing there. They completely clog the lineup but, always end around 11 thus I got a bit of shaping done then headed over just as the kids were all leaving. As far as the lineup, it was my boy Zach and four other guys. One can’t beat that crowd with glassy waist to chest high waves. The water was very cold as per the standard this summer. The waves were pretty average and on the weaker side. I did a few wiggles and got my daily exercise but overall it was just another subpar day of surfing. After the surf I spent the afternoon working on surfboards.

7-30-24 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 15
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 18
I had some surfboard rbusiness to handle in Ventura mid-day. Jeffery said he saw some surf-able waves at the Rivermouth so I cruised over. Though small the minor NW wind swell/south swell combo was making some waist to stomach high peaks down by the River Mouth with no one out. We decided to run out and give it a try. As things turned out the waves were way more weak then they looked and good ones were a bit inconsistent. Somehow I did manage to get one little tube and a handful of combos in before the wind came up and trashed it. The rest of my day was committing to fixing dings.

7-29-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 70
Today I was so fed up with Ventura and its lack of worth while conditions as of late. I headed straight to the ‘bu not waisting any time. There was a bit more swell in the water than yesterday, but most waves were a bit more stretched and it was very inconsistent. That being said there were a couple of screamers to be had out there. I spent the first half of my surf down by 2nd and kiddie bowl but as the tide filled in it’s seemed to get more stretched where as up at 3rd it seemed to get more peaky, plus the left up there gets really fun on high tide. I could have surfed all day long but I have actually been training with my glasser to perfect the art of glassing. My goal is to be proficient by the fall.

7-28-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1 hrs 15 min
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 82
My wife decided that she wanted to come along to the beach with me this morning. Considering the NW wind swell & new south swell combo I headed to Shores for a look but it was too mixed up with onshore wind on it to be fun. I checked Strand for good measure, where it also completely sucked. When all else fails, I head to Malibu. We were stoked with the sight of peaky consistent chest high waves coming in up and down third and second peak with a very light crowd on it. Corey Pierce was out ripping as usual. I went ballistic frothing super hard and ripped the shit out of every wave that came my way. The place was literally like a skate park and the water was crazy warm, maybe 70F. Of course I was wearing a 4/3 and boots in anticipation of colder water. As a result after an hour I was basically spent mildly suffering from heat exhaustion. CC was paddling towards the end of my session. After the surf my wife and I enjoyed a late lunch while watching Olympic highlights in Hueneme. We ended the day with nine holes of twilight golf at The Sea Bee golf course.

7-27-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 10
I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of wind swell on the buoys this morning. It was enough to get me over to Strand. The Ship had a light crowd and I saw a solid five wave set come through that completely stoked me out. As soon as I paddled out I packed two solid tubes on my first two waves. After that the sets completely turned off. This left me chasing junky closed out shore pound even though it was low tide. I should have cut my losses right there but instead I decided to beat a dead horse for another hour and half where I definitely didn’t get anything worth surfing. The water was so cold I dare say it was 48F. Fucking miserable. I got word later that Rincon actually had a little wave that was fun. The remainder of my day was spent shaping away. Don’t let the photo below fool you. That was the proverbial set that got me out there which I never saw again.

7-26-24 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 54
The surf was on the smaller side this morning. I had a look at Shores and Hueneme, both already had some wind on it. I got word that Zeros had a wave and wasn’t too crowded so I headed that way. As my luck would have it there were somewhat fun waist to chest high waves coming in with only a handful of guys out. By the time I suited up and paddled there were only two guys left. The water was absolutely freezing, just hovering in the low 50’s. Coupled with the fog and a little onshore wind and it was rather chilly out there. This definitely helped keep that crowd minimal. I surfed till the tide got too high. The rest of my afternoon was committed to shaping.

7-25-24 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Miles Driven: 22
Today was by far the smallest day I had seen in a while. Malibu had waves but I didn’t have time to spend the whole day in pursuit of waist to chest high inconsistent surf. I had a look at Hueneme but it was too low. Having a solid amount of shaping to do I got to work. Around 2ish I took a break needing to go to Fiberglass Hawaii in Ventura to buy supplies. While in that zone I had a look at New Jetty, but it was barely knee high. On the way home I stopped and had a look at Hueneme one more time and though a tad bigger I was just way too busy to lose any time on the knee to waist wind blown waves. Instead I went back to shaping. Picture from Ventura Harbor.

7-24-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
Miles Driven: 70
After yesterday’s retarded car surfing mission I decided to just head straight to Malibu. I had a surfboard to paint. As soon as I finished I was on my way to the ‘bu. The waves were pretty similar to yesterday except maybe a little bit more stretched. The crowd though not any more heavy then the last few days was way more annoying. People kept getting in my way or were constantly paddling me. It made for a less then awesome surf. That being said I had three really decent rights and one left that was phenomenal, for the day of course. I must have lost track of time cause when I got back to my car it was past 2pm. So much for the rest of my day, though I did manage to get a little shaping done when I got home.

7-23-24 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 111
Today I went on a complete idiot mission all over Ventura looking for waves that weren’t there. Thanks Surfline for the worst report I’ve seen in a long time. 4-6+ foot my ass. I drove all the way to Pitas only to be left wanting. I called CC and he was going to Malibu in the afternoon. Rather than force a paddle anywhere in the VTA I decided to just get a little bit of work done and cruise with him around 1pm. The ‘bu was very inconsistent but also empty, which at the very least allowed whatever waves did come in to be our waves. CC focused on the left up at 3rd while I roamed around 3rd to Kiddie Bowl snatching up whatever I could. The water actually rather cold therefore we didn’t surf as long as usual. I got home and went right back to shaping.

7-22-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 70
After days of surfing complete garbage surf at home and the fact that the wind was on it at 8am in Ventura I decided to just head south to Malibu. The cam looked fun enough. As it turned out there were chest plus inconsistent south sets up and down 2nd and 3rd peak. I ran into Corey Pierce while walking up, Zach and Chase were out. CC showed up more towards the end of my surf. There were some really decent ones to be had. I got a number of four to six turn waves. Like I said it was painfully inconsistent out there forcing me to surf two hours to almost make wave count. Looks like this entire week is just going to be minor south swell. It’s going to be a grindy one. I spent the afternoon sanding surfboards.

7-21-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 12
The buoys were showing some solid wind swell. I cruised to Strand where the ship had a wave. The shape was junky with onshore wind plus a crowd of twenty guys. I half wanted to charge north and see if Rincon had a wave. Laziness got the best of me and I wound up surfing Rockside at Hueneme. I did manage to luck into a fun window of chest to head high peaks running up and down the beach. Unfortunately the water was maybe 50F and after an hour I was too cold to continue. My wife was down in Riverside visiting with some of her college friends. This left me the afternoon to get some shaping done. I got word from Ryan that Rincon did have a wave.

7-20-24 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 14
Miles Driven: 2
Considering the tide and swell I cruised up to Hueneme. Rockside looked like it had some corners so I paddled. As it turned out the majority of the waves were stretched and hard to surf. The water was barely above 50F. I did want I could but it was pretty terrible and coupled with the cold water I made it a short surf. Somehow I managed to get the weekend off. Stoked for the time off I had a relaxing mid-day followed by nine holes of golf with my wife.

7-19-24 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
The tide was high and wind already up out of the NW. Hueneme was about the only worth while option and actually by Hueneme standards it was sort of peaky. I jumped in at Rockside mid morning and usually at that time I get the place to myself. Right after I paddled a pack of four younger guys all pumped paddled as well as my friend Mitch and a few other random dudes. The water was bone chilling cold. Luckily I wore my warmest 4/3 in anticipation of such. For the past week I have been fighting a summer cold and today I was feeling pretty lousy. The cold water didn’t help. I got a handful of waves but ultimately my poor health wasn’t allowing me to fully enjoy the waves thus I bailed. I had some ding work that absolutely needed to get finished. I pushed through. After that I was completely spent. My wife and I were supposed to go see the Lao Tyzer band at the Grape in downtown Ventura. I was going to just man up and attend but my wife talked me into staying home. Thank the lord she did cause I was completely exhausted.

7-18-24 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 10
Today was probably some of the better surf I have seen all summer. Yesterday when I was surfing The Hotel I noticed there was a lot of wave action down the beach by Hollywood. I decided to have a look at La Brea despite getting a negative report from Ryan. There were definitely a few decent bars to be had up and down the beach. I ended up driving a few blocks further south to Los Feliz where I saw some hallow ones. The sets were still a bit stretchy but overall it was definitely way more peaky then yesterday and it stayed glassy to just a little bit of surface ruffle the entire surf. Stoked I frothed. The water was unfortunately even colder then yesterday. The marine layer was rather thick so with no sun I was chilly sitting and waiting between sets. I got one stand up dry hair tube that really stoked me out and a handful of in and outs. I think by far it was one of the better sessions I have surfed in a while. I wanted to surf longer but was absolutely frigid after two hours. I’ll take the score. Oh, did I mention I was basically by myself the entire session. The rest of my day was taken up by ding repair.

7-17-24 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 10
The south swell was supposed to be peaking this morning. I may have got a bit more fired up for it then I should have which led to my subsequent let down as I was stood on the dunes of The Hotel looking at stretched chest to head high running away lefts. At the very least the conditions were glassy and with the minor NW wind swell, peaky as well. I had a catering gig to work in Santa Barbara at 3pm and the surf looked do-able enough for me. I paddled with Ryan and Bizarro showed up to film. As it turned out grabbing onto an actual decent ride was super difficult because the lines were running so fast. I did get a couple. I also took a terrible wipe out trying to go top to bottom on a heavy section that the backwash ended up throwing me into the air. I landed in the flats on my side and got the wind completely knocked out of me. A few waves after the wind came up ended the session. The word I got was almost everywhere in Southern California suffered from the same issues I had with the surf. At the very least it was fun to get some size for a change. As for the catering gig it was a bit hectic but went off famously as per is expected from a chef of my accolade.

7-16-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 36
The predicted south swell finally began to show this morning. Unfortunately it wasn’t doing much for the Ventura and Oxnard beaches, plus the wind was already onshore. Hueneme had a wave but the tide was too low. I headed south down the PCH. County Line had some solid sets. The left on the backside was somewhat working. Still I was leaning towards paddling the right hand reef till the wind came up out of the south. That was the decision maker for me to surf the backside of the point. There were four guys on the left, more then I like considering there aren’t that many good ones out there making positioning important. A number of guys were out in board shorts leading me to believe that the water was warm even though it’s been a bit chilly in Ventura. I put on my 3/2 and decided to wear my boots cause the rocks are gnarly on the left and I didn’t feel like getting my feet all cut up. It was a good thing I wore my boots cause the water was freezing. Luckily the air was warm and sunny or I don’t think I would have gotten more then an hour in. As soon as I paddled everyone bailed, probably because of the cold water and I had the line up to myself. I found some good tubes, turns and airs making it a pretty fun session. The surf stayed clean the entire time I was out there. I probably would have surfed another hour if the water hadn’t been so cold or if I’d worn my 4/3. It was fine since I had a solid amount of ding repair and shaping work to do. I heard from Jeffery that El Cap was also fun. Looks like more south to fill in over the next few days.

7-15-24 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft,
Miles Driven: 2
Well, This morning the surf was absolutely deplorable. I could have surfed if I was extremely desperate but I wasn’t. Hueneme had a knee to thigh high wave that just couldn’t get into it. I had a full cue of ding repair to get through and decided to go home and get to work. Surfline was claiming the surf was supposed come up by the afternoon. I had a look at the cams around 3pm but they were still terrible. Instead of surfing I got back to work. Looks like more south swell is supposed to fill in tomorrow.

7-14-24 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15m
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
The surf was really down today. Hueneme had a do-able wave and I forced a quick morning paddle. Had the tide been a little bit higher I think the surf could have almost been fun. Instead it was just waist to stomach high dumpy close outs I managed a few hits on. I met up with my wife for some brunch after and we ended the day when nine holes of golf on the Hueneme Base course. I played one of the worst games I’ve had in weeks. Oh well.

7-13-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 20
I woke up this morning and it was raining. Raining! In July? I assume it was from all the water being evaporated in the atmosphere from the fire. Who knows? It’s not like I’m a meteorologist. The surf was down from yesterday. I had a look at Hueneme but the tide was already too low. When all else in my zone fails Ventura Harbor is always the backup. There was a junky waist to chest high wave up at the River Mouth with a handful of guys out. I walked down the beach till I found my own peak. The current was actually pulling south towards the mouth which is rare, usually it’s the other way. The waves were a bit too bowly and dumpy for the small size. There were a few gems but they were hard to track down with the intense current. I got some brunch with my wife after the surf. My afternoon and evening was spent working a wedding up at Dos Pueblos Ranch at the Orchid Farm.

7-12-24 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 20
The buoys and cams were showing that small rise in wind swell I mentioned yesterday. Strand was my first stop but it was way too small. Jeffery was over at the Harbor and was claiming it chest plus and fun. I cruised over and though a little drained with the tide there were some definite fun ones to be had. Ryan showed up and we walked all the way to the River Mouth and paddled. The way the two swells were crossing up made for some heavy wedges dumping pretty hard on the shallow bar. Unfortunately I woke up with some pain in my left knee and therefore was surfing a bit more conservative then I would have liked. I still managed a few fun tubes and some decent turns. The wind began to come up and I should have quit while I was ahead. Instead I stayed out way too long as both the wind and the tide completely turned the place off leaving me scrapping for a fun wave in, which I never found. The rest of my afternoon was spent sanding boards.

7-11-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zuma
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 54
The surf was really rdown today with just some trace south swell and minor NW wind swell. There was a rising tide all day and Ventura and Oxnard were tiny. I got a little work done then headed down the PCH mid morning. County and Zeros were tiny and crowded. Zuma seemed to have the most opportunity for my window and the wind was light. Whenever I surf Zuma with the exception of Westwood and Drain Pipes it’s pretty much the same peak up and down the beach. I just drive along the PCH till I find a parking spot and that’s where I paddle. Today I found parking in front of Tower 12. Zach showed up to surf with me and we actually found a few fun waves. We must have made it look too much fun cause with in the hour there were another dozen guys or so that paddled. It wasn’t a problem since there were waves up and down the beach. I just paddled to where ever the crowd wasn’t. Two hours later I was over it and headed home for an afternoon of surfboard repair. On the way around Mugu Rock there was a bunch of fire trucks and emergency personnel. Apparently a car drove off the Cliff and was at the bottom all smashed up. I’m not sure if anyone died or not as I didn’t car enough yo check it out. Looks like there any be a small rise in wind swell for tomorrow.

7-10-24 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 14
The wind was up early and swell a bit too be desired. I was torn between heading to LA to chase whatever was left of the south swell or waiting for higher tide at Hueneme in the avro. I had a bit of shaping to do; as a matter of fact I needed to get a board done by 3pm to meet a deadline. I opted to get to work and hope to surf later. I got the board all shaped up and delivered to my glasser. Around 3:30 I had a look at Rockside. It was chest high plus and sort of peaky to very killable close outs. The wind had a bit more north in it then west allowing for side-shore conditions. I popped out and tore up any corner that came my way. The water was shockingly warm too. It was only worth about an hour and besides I had to get home to cook dinner for my wife. If I don’t have dinner on the table when she gets home from work there is hell to pay.

7-9-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 70
After missing the entire south swell at Malibu I decided that today was the day to try and get some leftovers. The tide and conditions were right. I was so amped I even gathered my entire Clarks Surfboards team from that zone to join me. To his dismay I woke up Bizarro and forced him to come film. Of course when we got there it was two foot and crowded. There were a few fun ones to be had at 2nd Peak. As the tide filled in the surf did get better and the majority of the crowd had left. I was stoked that my entire team showed up and everyone was ripping despite the less then stellar wave size. It was a fun surf to say the least and we got some footage. The rest of my afternoon was committed to ding work.

7-8-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 18
I had a solid amount of ding work I needed to get done and didn’t want to waste too much time looking around for surf. My first stop was Shores but it was too small. The River Mouth had some decent looking chest plus peaks up and down the beach. Ryan and Jeffrey met me and we paddled. With the rising fat tide it was a bit soft and inconsistent. There was also an annoying current. Over fighting the drift. I decided to walk all the way to the mouth, which was still open. The waves were actually dumping pretty hard on the shallow sand bar causing a some what hallow tube. I managed a few in and outs. Then I got a set wave and pulled in. As I was coming out I got caught by the lip and ate shit in basically dry sand. When I retrieved my board I noticed that I had creased the nose. Being that I was easily a half mile from my car I decided to just surf my way back regardless of my messed up stick. I ended up getting a bunch of fun waves on the way. The rest of my day was committed to ding repair.

7-7-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 10
My wife and I had a family party in Santa Ynez to attend. Of course The Lake Fire had broken out a day ago and was ravaging the backcountry of that same area. I got up early and ran over to the Hotel for a quick surf. It was smaller then yesterday but oil glass with perfect shape and a light crowd. I jumped in and found out that it was way more inconsistent and weak then I had initially hoped. I suppose it was better the waves weren’t firing since I had someplace to be. We cruised up to this posh ranch my wife’s family owns just off the 154 outside of Los Olivos. The party was killer, good food and good vibes. While hanging out in the yard we watched the fire jump the ridge of the hills in background. It was definitely gnarly to say the least. We didn’t let it spoil our good time. My wife and I capped the afternoon off with nine holes of golf at the La Purisma golf course. I’d say it was the perfect way to end an epic holiday weekend.

7-6-24 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, The Hotel
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 min
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 10
This morning would have been near epic had the wind not been out of the south so instead we had to settle for just fun conditions. That being said I was pleasantly surprised when I walked up the dunes and was greeted by chest to head high bowls up and down the beach. I didn’t hesitate to get out there. Though a bit more tricky then it looked I definitely got my share of fun ones out there. If my wife wasn’t with me I probably could have surfed another hour or so cause when I left it was still really fun. I heard that the afternoon turned on at Shores and it was glassy. As for me I was preparing a feast for fifteen people for my Glasser’s birthday party at his house at the Shores. He build himself a poker table for his birthday and we broke it in that night. Bizarro was the big winner cleaning house on everyone.

7-5-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 18
The sun was out shining bright and early this morning which guaranteed that the wind was going to be on it as well, which it was. I had a look at everything to Ventura harbor and it was all junky and blown out. On a last ditch effort I decided to just suit up and paddle Rockside with out even looking at it. The waves were solid overhead and dumpy, Hueneme style shore pound. I noticed there was a rip running back out by the last life guard tower and it was forcing a left wedge tube to form. I grabbed my Clarks Surfboards Hacksaw Model, the only board I trust under my feet when the surf gets serious and gave it my all. I managed four really sick draining tubes. I also took a good number of shitty beatings too. All in all it was way more fun then I expected, plus it’s been a long time since I’ve been in real waves of consequence. The rest of my afternoon was spent shopping for some new threads with my wife. I heard Malibu pretty much was all time in the evening. Oh well, I bought a sick new jacket and pair of slacks.

7-4-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 12
Happy Fourth of July. There was the start of a new south swell in the water. Of course it had to hit on one of the busiest beach holidays there is. The tide was pretty low thus I had a look at Shores. The wind was already on it and the tide borderline too fat. Hoping the ship might have some combo I fruitlessly drove over there. The bowl did have a thigh high wave but I couldn’t in good conscience surf that. I found myself back at Hueneme paddling the wedgey close out on the south side of the pier. It was dumpy, angry and backwash riddled, classic Hueneme. I was amazed at the throngs of people that had come out to the beach for the day as early as 8:30 am. As for us my wife and I we got some breakfast. Later in the afternoon we were had her Sister’s family over for Bizzaro’s famous BBQ where he served ribs, sausage and Chicken. While we waited my brother in law Ben and I went and played a round of golf at River Ridge on the Vineyard course. I shot a 61 on 9 holes which so far is an all time best for me. I’m terrible I know but I’m slowly getting better. Dinner was fabulous and we capped off the evening watching the fireworks at Channel Islands Harbor.

7-3-24 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Miles Driven: 12
There was a bit more wind swell in the water. Hueneme was my first stop but it wasn’t quite there. The Ship had a somewhat surf-able wave with a light crowd. It looked fun enough so I jumped in. As it turned out the waves were way more stretched and wonky then I would have liked. I surfed way to long trying to make something out of the hard to surf stretched waves. Ryan showed up an hour into my surf and by that time the swell just about completely turned off. I did manage one decent tube and a couple of ok turns. After the surd I had to spent the afternoon shopping for a small catering drop off I picked up for Friday.

7-2-24 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 18
Hueneme was once again too small. I drove over to the Harbor where there was a significant amount of wind swell showing compared to yesterday. The shape was pretty stretched with very little cross up. I did notice some of the bars down by the River Mouth were offering a little more of a fast line running the deep holes between the bars. It was backwashy and definitely tricky but it was for sure the largest waves I have seen in days. I grabbed my Clarks Surfboards Bizzle Model to cut through the weaker nature of the waves. I made the most of the weird hard to surf conditions and even stuck a few airs. As the tide got lower the backwash got more intense. I went speeding down the line on a wave when an very appetizing air section came my way so I boosted it. When I landed on the lip of the wave the backwash hit it and sent me cascading into the air. I landed hard on my chest and had the wind completely knocked out of me. I couldn’t breathe for a few minutes and thought I may have cracked some ribs. Luckily I was able to gain my composure and get a few more waves. I was definitely feeling the pain from that hit for the rest of the day and evening. It’s always the small shitty days that I get hurt on.

7-1-24 No Surfing: 1-2+ ft,
Miles Driven: 10
Finally there was
Once again the waves were tiny. I watched Hueneme for a bit but it was just too small though perfectly glassy. I had Clarks Surfboards business in Ventura in the afternoon thus opted to get some work done then have a look at the Harbor early afternoon. New Jetty had a waist plus wave coming through in the middle of the beach. The wind was on it and shape lousy. I couldn’t for the life of me find the stoke or motivation to paddle. Instead I went home and got back to work. Tomorrow I’m going to force myself to surf something. Here’s a picture of micro Silver Strand.