Surfing Ruined My Life

November 2025 Surf Sessions

11-30-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 10
Solid NW/WNW/SW combo created somewhat peaky conditions at the Oxnard beaches.  I paddled Hollywood because shores was packed and with south wind in the forecast I thought I’d get a bit more protection from the wind there. It was fun head high plus stretchy but do-able lefts and rights.  My mother in law was nice enough to watch Adagio for the day giving my wife and I a much needed date day. She came with me and filmed it definitely felt strange not having the baby in tow.  Of course CC came just as the south wind came up a common occurrence for him.  Then we enjoyed a baby free brunch followed by a round of golf.  We were both were pretty rusty after not having played since just after adagio’s birth. Nonetheless it was fun to get out on the greens.  Once home it was back to the drudgery that is parenting.  At the very least he is a cute baby.

11-29-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 43
Though there was plenty of swell all of the VTA beaches were pretty walled with onshore wind.  There was a bit of south swell on the buoys so I met Zach at Zeros where it was chest plus but very  inconsistent.  Zach was on fire.  I was a bit lethargic out there.  I don’t why but lately I have felt a little bored with surfing.  Most sessions it feels like I’m just going through the motions.  Somehow I managed to bruise my tail bone after hitting the bottom on an end section hit.  Add that to my big toe I hurt yesterday and I now have two annoying injuries working against me. I had to watch my son in the evening while wife went to her twenty year high school reunion in Santa Barbara.

11-28-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 10
After yesterday’s poor showing I was stoked to be looking at inconsistent stretched chest to head high waves at Hollywood over by La Brea.  I got to surf with my friends Rob and Duane whom I haven’t had a session with in quite some time.  Though pretty stretched there were some clean freight train runners to be had with corners and tubes.  The south wind showed up and basically ended the session.  While changing out of my suit I accidentally dropped my wash water bottle on my big toe.  I didn’t break it but definitely caused myself an annoying injury for a while.  I furnished my wife and I thanksgiving left overs for lunch followed by a little bit of ding repair.  We ended the evening taking Adagio for walk at Ventura harbor. 

11-27-25 AM Session: 1-2 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 12
Usually the waves are pretty good on Thanksgiving.  This year it was not the case.  There was just a touch SW/NW combo.  Hollywood was too small for the bars thus I found myself paddling knee high Hueneme Pier.  About the only thing the session had going for it was that it was like 80F out and the wind was offshore.  The highlight of the session for me was spotting my wife and baby up on the pier.  Bizarro once again did an excellent job of smoking the turkey.  We had CC over for dinner.  Adagio sampled a bit of everything and decided he loves thanksgiving dinner.  

11-26-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 12
The pier was my first look as always was the Hueneme Pier.  It was tiny leaving me a bit disparaged on where to go.  Then I got a text from my friend Duane that Hollywood was head high plus and fun with offshore winds.  I grabbed Bizarro to film and paddled La Brea.  Though a little bit stretched, wonky and fat with the tide there were some gems.  I definitely packed a few barrels and turns.  I could have surfed for hours but was feeling the burn and called it a day.  We definitely got some decent clips.  Once home Bizarro and I went into pie making mode for tomorrow’s Thanksgiving feast.  I made a pumpkin pie out of Adagios little pumpkin he got during Hueneme’s Halloween event.  Bizarro made his famous cheese cake.  My day finished off with a little bit of ding repair.

11-25-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 14
The pier was my first check this morning but it was extremely crowded for what was on offer and somewhat drained and stretched with the lower tide.  Hoping for something better I had a look at Hollywood, which had solid head high plus peaks.  While watching it the north wind started to pick up and for fear that it might blow out I decided to just go home and paddle the pier.  My timing was perfect because as soon as I paddled everyone left and I had the lineup to myself till my friend Mitch paddled out.  A bit banged  up from yesterday, CC decided to watch us trade super fun right bowls from the pier.  I’d say it was a score. I had to watch my baby in afternoon before him and my wife shoved off to San Diego to see her family. I opted to stay home.

11-24-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 38
Hueneme was a bit stretchy and dumpy, as was the majority of the other beach breaks in the area.  The tide was going up to a 5.5 feet at 10am leaving the only options Rincon or Ventura point up north or County Line down south with the west swell in play.  I got word that Rincon was stupid crowded.  CC and I loaded into my car and headed to County Line.  There were solid chest to head plus rights coming off the reef but very inconsistent with side shore/offshore south east wind on it.  Due to the tide we were sitting super deep past the stairs. CC smashed his face on the rocks on his first wave after going over the handle bars on a big backside snap.  His face was a bloody mess with cuts and scrapes from his chin to his far head.  Luckily though nothing required medical attention and he didn’t feel like he had a concussion thus the session continued.  We both had a couple of solid runners.  I had one overhead bomb from behind the stairs all the way to the parking lot. For over an hour we had the whole place to ourselves.  I suppose we made it look too much fun because it got rather crowded signifying the end of the surf.  My nanny unfortunately had to go back to Columbia for a family emergency leaving me the caregiver for Adagio.  Bizarro and I had to go shopping for thanksgiving.  We took the kid along for the ride making it his first trip to a super market.

11-23-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
All of Hueneme was very crowded today.  There had to be fifty guys from the Creek to Rockside.  It was fun but far from being good enough to warrant such a pack.  The south side of the pier looked the best but with ten guys on it and not a wave going by not ridden I decided to surf the north side where there were only a handful of guys spread out. It was a little stretched but there were some solid chest to head plus runners good for three turns. I stuck a huge backside straight air I was particularly pleased with.  Being it a Sunday the rest of my afternoon was spent hanging with my wife and baby.

11-22-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
CC and I had the south side of the pier to ourselves with nice chest plus lines.  The wind couldn’t make up its mind going from NE,  to NW, to calm to E to hard SE.  For whatever reason I couldn’t make a barrel to save my life though I did manage a couple of decent turns. There was no verdict on wife’s car so we were given a  loaner.  This whole situation has become quite tragic. A new car for people like us is a huge investment and to have issues with its running capability is heart breaking. In the afternoon we took Adagio for a hike to arroyo verde park in east Ventura. It was our  first visit before and we were pleased with vistas.  The park features a number of trails ranging all ability levels. 

11-21-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
I got a call from CC claiming the pier was overhead and pumping.  He tends to get excited and over call it at times but other times he’s spot on and when that happens I usually have a super session.  Today was not that day, but still there were some fun ones off the south side of the pier with strong offshore winds that got stronger by the minute.  The majority of the sets were somewhat stretched. That being said I had plenty of barrels, turns, and beatings.  One particular wave I got hit in the face with my board coming down from a free fall floater courtesy of the hard offshore winds.  Luckily I was unscathed. I had one intense barrel that I got spit out off that I caught down the beach past tower 6.  Eventually the dropping tide coupled with extreme winds, almost forty knots offshore by that time killed it.  You can’t shake a stick at chest to head high plus waves with just myself, CC and Eric out.  I’m Southern California? That’s unheard of.  In the afternoon my wife and I had to take her new car into the dealer due to an electrical problem.  The remainder of my afternoon was spent doing ding repair. It was also my son Adagio’s five month birthday. 

11-20-25 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
The sky was trippy this morning with all the clouds and storm lighting.  It felt more like the afternoon.  The swell was pretty down just pushing chest high.  There was some light offshore wind grooming it.  No one was out and I saw a few worthy peaks.  The air was cold but I knew the water was warm and paddled.  Sets were very inconsistent but when they came they were decent.  I had the whole place to myself.  It started pouring mid surf.  My afternoon was committed to ding repair.

11-19-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 2
Fun chest to head plus clean south side of the pier runners were on tap this morning.  Stoked, CC, Eric and I had the place to ourselves. Light offshore wind was grooming the waves perfectly.  I had some deep pits but only made a handful.  The barrels I did make were pretty special.  I had one drainer that spit me out down the beach just before it clamped shut.  I even managed a couple of airs. My afternoon was spent fixing dings.  I finally got my UPS settlement for the surfboard that got damaged and was pleased with the decision.

11-18-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
This morning was solid head high to over head pier with offshore winds and just CC and I out.  Bizarro showed up to film and we were trading off fun right hand runners.  Then we saw a seagull get caught in a fishing line and paddled out to its aid.  The poor beast was not hooked but the line was tangled around his body and under his wings.  The fisherman attempted to reel the bird up but it was flapping around too frantically.  We attempted to untangle him at which point the gull nipped both of our fingers.  I got the worse bite almost down to the bone of my right hand index finger.  At that point we gave up and the seagull flew away with the line still around it.  My finger was fucked but the waves were still pretty darn good and we were filming so rather than paddling in I decided to surf the remainder of the session with my bloody finger flapping around.  It was a good call cause I got my best barrels during that time.  The tide drained fast and ultimately it became way too dumpy to surf.  I went home and cleaned out my wound then taped it back together with a few bandaids.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings. 

11-17-25 No Surfing: 2-3+ ft,
Miles Driven: 2
After three straight days of amazing surf sessions I didn’t have the motivation to paddle small stormy junk waves in the rain.  Nor did I care to make the effort to go try and find waves either.  I was good and had no need to ruin my stoke off the weekend.  Instead I ran a bunch of errands I have been putting off.  My afternoon was spent putting fins in boards and sanding dings.  Photo from the Surfline Ventura Point cam.

11-16-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 12
Today marks day three of the rain.  I was hoping the pier would be fun but it was a mess when CC and I looked at it at 9am with south winds. East winds were in the forecast so I decided to to hedge my bets and wait for mid morning.  Since there was a momentary break in the rain my wife and I took adagio for a walk.  Both of them were definitely suffering from extreme cabin fever.  Of course half way through our walk it started to rain thus we had to retreat to our car.  We should have brought an umbrella.  I had a look at Shores around 11.  It was chest to head plus clean and peaky, no tubes but very rip-able.  I found a peak all to myself just before the Hotel and was having a blast out there for over an hour.  Then the same kids from strand who declared me public enemy number one started hassling me.  I don’t understand why.  There were unlimited peaks of equal value up and down the beach from me leaving them no reason to paddle on me except to cause trouble.  The incident escalated when some other dude from Strand whom I’ve surfed with for years and is  also not a fan of mine decided to get in my face as well.  I was ready to go to blows if necessary but dude paddled away and the kids backed off.  The whole situation has gotten absolutely ridiculous and reinforces just how stupid surfers are. I had already surfed the bulk of my session anyway and needed to get back home to my wife and baby.  I promised I’d bring back lunch and it was already after one.  There was another break in the rain just before dark allowing my wife and I to take the kid out for one more walk to end the day.

11-15-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 12
Today was rainy day number two in what is predicted to be a four day 10-12 inch rain event.  I looked at Hueneme first but the tide was already too low.  With offshore winds, combo swell and a dropping tide I decided to go look at Hollywood and Shores.  Hollywood was mostly walled, while Shores was rather peaky.  No one was out and I saw head high plus clean peaks breaking up and down the beach.  Paddling was a no brainer.   One other guy paddled in the time it took me to suit up.  We each had our own peak and were grinning ear to ear at the fact that it was that good with no one out.  It wasn’t super hallow though I did sneak a couple of tubes.  Mostly the waves  were just about as rip-able as waves get.  I had a blast.  I love those rainy days.  The rest of my day was spent trying to entertain my son without being able to take him outside.

11-14-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Topanga
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 92
While most Californians consider rain to be a drag I welcome it.  Usually there is fun surf and very light crowds.  The tricky part about rain days is timing.  The wind is constantly changing as is the swell so one has to be quite vigilant if he is to score.  I find myself checking the surf and weather forecast constantly.  Early on the wind was junky out of the SW but around 9:30 it went offshore.  Hueneme was too low tide thus I headed over to Hollywood.  Due to heavy flooding the only place I could get access was by Little Sunset which was well overhead and looked decent enough.  It was also surprisingly packed with easily thirty guys.  That’s a tight take off spot when there are ten guys out, not to mention most of the waves coming through just looked racy.  Over it I decided to go have lunch with my wife,renew my base pass and have a look in the early afternoon.  Topanga appeared like it was going to be the call.  That place loves west swells and SE wind.  I picked up CC and we cruised. Sure enough when we got there the waves were chest to head high plus with very nice lines running down the point and only about a dozen or so guys out.  Stoked, we were out there.  I caught some really amazing rides as did CC.  As the tide filled in the surf got less consistent and more crowded.  That was our cue to leave.  What a score.  I love Topanga when it’s on and empty. 

11-13-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 43
Talk about a repeat of yesterday, but maybe just a tad smaller.  I was stoked to be feeling better than I have been the past few days.  The crowd was a mix the OG Zeros crew and a handful of other regulars who are a little absent minded when it comes to proper etiquette. Normally this crowd would have got me pretty frustrated but Zach and I traded lefts off reef again by ourselves and I focused more on the inside double ups and got on a real tear.  Zach ended up surfing four hours and if I didn’t have a catering gig in SB I probably would have too.

11-12-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 43
After missing yesterday I was on a mission to have a fun surf.  In all actuality I was feeling terrible.  The chest cold I contracted from my son had me hurting.  Hueneme was crap.  Zach hit me up that Zeros looked fun and he was out there. I made the drive and sure enough Zeros definitely had some nice lines.  The sand out there is decent right now making it a seriously viable wave for a change.  Though good the waves were very inconsistent and as usual there was a healthy crowd on it.  Zach and I sat deep on the reef and waited for the ones that swung over that way so we didn’t have to contend with the crowd.  Normally I scrap all over the inside up and down the beach but since I was wasn’t feeling great I only focused on the set waves.   There were some decent rights to be had as well thanks to the NW combo swell.  I managed to stick a really clean backside air reverse on said right and landed just before crashing into the rocks.  Zach to his credit was also ripping.  When I got home my afternoon was spent filing a shipping claim with UPS since they dinged the last board I shipped despite it being packaged extra tough.  For $300 you think they could get the board to its destination safely.  Later in the evening I set off to LAX to pick Bizzaro up from his Italy trip.  Talk about another busy day.

11-11-25 No Surfing: 3-4+ ft
Miles Driven: 41
There was a nice shot of SW/NW combo swell running.  I had to work a corporate Lunch in Carpinteria in the morning.  Word was Rincon had waves but by the time I got there it was crowded, windy and less than desirable shape for the crowd.  I forgot it was Veterans Day, which totally accounted for the extreme crowd.  My nanny was still recovering from whatever ailment caused her to be absent yesterday.  I decided to head home and pick up family and cruise south cause Surfline claimed the wind was supposed to stay light into the afternoon.  A family afternoon beach day with dinner at Neptunes Net sounded like a splendid idea.  Of course anytime I have an afternoon to surf regardless of the forecast you can be sure the wind is going to howl onshore.  Today was no exception.  By the time we got to got to Zeros it was all blown out as was County Line.  Leo was the only option and it was stupid crowded.   I couldn’t muster up the nerve to paddle such a scene for below average waves.  I threw in the towel rather than have my wife and baby freeze on the beach to watch me surf blown out Zeros (pictured below) or crowded shitty Leo.  I hate to miss in day that actually had some waves.  I hate how annoyingly crowded surfing has become.   It seems I can only find waves to myself that are so terrible and difficult to surf that no one wants a piece of them.

11-10-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
Miles Driven: 43
There was a small south swell filling in.  All of Ventura and Oxnard were plagued with terrible winds.  It looked clean at Leo thus I made the drive.  Though small there were some fun waist to chest, high tide runners with only a few guys out thanks to a fog bank that rendered the Surfline cam useless.  I paddled and actually got on a real tear.  It was also pretty inconsistent and once the fog lifted the place was back to is usual crowded self, just about the time Zach showed.  I had a busy day in the surfboard shop so got one more and headed in.  When I got home my nanny said she was feeling faint and needed to go to the hospital.  Instead of working in my shop I had a bonding day with my son.

11-9-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 2
I was pleasantly surprised when the Pier still had a chest plus wave to surf this morning and decent conditions with a light crowd.  The forecast wasn’t  calling for much so the little combo swell was a win.  I paddled the south side and picked off some really fun lefts and rights.  Of course as per usual on a Sunday I got tangled in a fisher man’s line cause for whatever reason they like to cast directly into where the waves break.  I still was dragging health wise.  When I got one that ran all the way to the second life guard stand I decided to quit while I was ahead.  In the afternoon my wife and I decided to take Adagio to Strathearn Historical Park in Simi Valley.  It’s a cute collection of 17th century homes and a glimpse of what life was like in the early days of California.  The weather actually got gnarly hot while we  were there going from the high 70’s to the 90’s in about a half hour.  We decided to get out of there and head back to Port Hueneme where the temperature was a chill 65F.

11-8-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 2
The NW swell was winding down coupled with a small sw swell and a steep NW swel,  The seven foot high tide was way too high for the pier.  I had a small window thus I paddled rockside up at the dredge bar.  It was very hard to figure out where to sit as there really isn’t a well defined point any more but more like a long exposed dry sand bar.  I felt like I was always too deep or too shallow or the wave was just too dumpy to surf.  The current set up is ideal for body boarders, probably for skim boarding too.  Then the wind came up out of south for the fifth day in a row, half way through the session making it trash.  I found three runners.  The water was gross, black and full of muck and garbage.  Later that evening I worked my last wedding for the year up in Santa Barbara.  That marks 78 weddings this year.  It was quite a whirlwind of a wedding season.

11-7-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 2
This morning was actually sunny and warm out.  I think it’s the first pleasant morning we have had in two weeks.  Considering the weather my wife and baby decided to join me and we cruised straight up to the Pier.  Though a little high tide there were some solid head to overhead leftovers from yesterday’s swell.  A handful of guys were out, but they were all regulars.  I couldn’t get into a rhythm to save my life.  Two days in a row, I hope I’m not heading into a slump.  The first half hour was fun then the swell completely disappeared.  I almost had to paddle in it go so sparse out there. My afternoon was spent fixing dings and shaping.

11-6-25 AM Session: 4-6+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 2
The first real west swell of the season was definitely showing this morning.  I checked the pier and it was solid head to overhead with two guys out.  It looked good but I also saw a couple of screamers on rockside and drove over to have a look.  Most waves were still breaking right on the sand and way too fast and sectiony. Everyone who I talked who was getting out was not all that stoked on it.  I went back to the pier and paddled the south side.  For about forty minutes I had the place  to myself.  Then Zach and Chase randomly showed up with Jack and another guy.  I guess they couldn’t hack it in the bowl at Strand.  Im sure it was pretty wild out there.  I love surfing with all those guys except in my an opinion it was a few too many heads for the lack of good waves coming through.  Chase managed a sick double barrel, and may have been the best barrel I have ever seen anyone get off the south side.  As for myself I was struggling to get anything going still feeling a little under the weather from my cold.  I got a few but for the size I was hoping for a bit more of a magical session than it was. The waves were a bit more shifty and stretched than I would have liked. Also the entire session was plagued with annoying south wind.  Eventually both the wind and low tide killed it.  I got home and was feeling terrible thus I decided to rest instead of putting on a respirator and grind away at surfboards. Rincon was pretty solid in the afternoon but crowded with every pro in the area and beyond out there.

11-5-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
Miles Driven: 2
There was a seven foot high tide flooding just about every spot around.  The Pier was managing a somewhat rip-able wave on the north side that Jeffery and I took full advantage of till the tide good a bit too low.  Then we paddled over to the south side and got a few more before south wind came up again and wrecked it. I had a catering gig to work in Montecito in the evening.  The kitchen was outside in a tent for five hours and I was freezing by the time I left.  I have been fighting a cold for a few days now and I’m sure this did not help my case.

11-4-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Miles Driven: 2
There were some solid lines coming off the south side of the Pier.  By the time I suited up and walked to the beach the wind had already took a turn to the south. Actually there’s been a lot of annoying south wind this fall.  With the wind the south side was out.  There were some lefts and rights off the north side.  On my third wave I got a proper left tube.  The right going back at the pier was plenty rip-able.  After about thirty minutes the wind completely trashed the line up.  After the surf I went shopping for new shoes and new jeans. It was time I updated by dilapidated everyday wardrobe.  Then I built a cat house for this stray cat that has been living in my yard since April.  He is a good looking grey short hair that we have affectionately named Silvio.  Considering how cold it’s been getting at night and with rainy season coming I decided Silvio needed a proper dwelling.  My last task was to shape a board. 

11-3-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 43
Hueneme would have been the call this morning but I had just missed the tide window and with a steadily dropping low my options were points only.  Zach was claiming Zeros so I went back south. Though a tad smaller than yesterday the shape was about as good as it gets at Zeros.  The place actually resembled a real left point break.  That being said the first half of my session I was having a real shocker.  I couldn’t put together a decent ride to save my life.  The intense crowd to wave ratio didn’t help either.  Then the crowd dropped and I got on a role and caught a handful of really decent waves.  I could have surfed all day but there was shaping to be done and I did the responsible thing and called it a day. 

11-2-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 10
Miles Driven: 43
I was hoping to score some epic Oxnard beach break with the amazing combo swell at hand, but wind went stupid hard WSW at 9am causing way more bump than I would have liked. Zach said Zeros was solid and the lot was still free thus I headed south.  Sure enough Zeros was head to overhead, very crowed and somewhat inconsistent.  Unfortunately the inside double ups I usually thrive off weren’t working.  I sat deep on the reef and just waited for the good ones. It was a patients game.  I did manage a few decent overhead runners down the point.  I promised my wife I’d be home by noon and around 11ish I got what was probably one of the better turns I’ve done in a while on a close out section.  Rather than go back out and push the envelope I decided to quit on that high note.  My afternoon was consumed by  house chores.  With Bizarro out of town there has been plenty of slack to pick up on the home front.

11-1-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 72
Hueneme wasn’t really happening thus I met up with CC and we cruised to Malibu, which looked fun enough on the cam.  The first thirty minutes it was pretty consistent and the crowd light enough for us to take advantage.  Then as the tide dropped the waves got way less consistent, more crowded and more stretched.  With that combination finding a good one was near to impossible.  We floated around for easily an hour getting absolutely nothing. It was another one of those days out there that left me wondering why I wasted my time. My evening was spent working a charity event in Santa Barbara.