Surfing Ruined My Life

October 2025 Surf Sessions

10-31-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 14
My first check was Hueneme  cause CC claimed it was popping.  Mostly it was  wonky and dumpy.  Hoping for some magic I checked Hollywood, which was also wonky with below average shape.  Then I drove over to the ship but it was stupid crowded. Once again I found myself back at Hueneme where I paddled Rockside and met up with CC.  It was way more dumpy than I had hoped especially as the tide dropped.  I got one tube and one good turn and lots and lots of beatings.  In an attempt to salvage the session CC and I ran down to the the pier to try and paddled the south side but with dropping tide and swell combo it was also too dumpy and stretched. I definitely got tricked instead of treated by the ocean this Halloween. Later in the afternoon my wife and I took adagio trick or treating.  We dressed up as silence of the Lambs.  I was Hannibal Lecter, she was Clarice and we dressed the kid up as a lamb. It was definitely gnarly.  I didn’t nearly buy enough candy for the kids as I ran out by 8:30pm.  I’ll have to get one extra bag next year.

10-30-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 45
The swell was even smaller than yesterday.  Hueneme was all mixed up with no shape, maybe the tide was too high for the size.  I decided to go on an idiot mission down the PCH where I checked everywhere to zeros. The best of it was probably Leo but with twenty guys on it and barely enough waves for five I wasn’t down. Ultimately I ended up back at Hueneme pier.  The rise in the NW wind straighten out swell and there was actually some fun waist to chest high somewhat drained waves off the south side.  Stoked I paddled and managed a handful of fun rides.  CC saw me while he was on a walk and it stoked him to paddle.  My afternoon was spent packing up a board to be shipped to Florida.

10-29-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 2
The swell was down today.  Word was it was small everywhere.  I saw a few fun ones off the south side of the pier and rather than drive around I took the bird in the hand.  Actually it was surprisingly way more fun than it looked. I ran into CC on his way out as I was walking back to my car.  It appeared someone was doing a dive survey of the pier.  After the surf I bought Halloween candy for any potential trick or treaters.  We usually get around sixty kids or so.  My afternoon was spent doing ding repair and fining boards. 

10-28-25 AM Session: 2-4 +ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 2
The dredge bar on Rockside shifted about 100 yards or so north as they dumped tons more sand in the last twenty four hours. Mostly it was stretchy rights breaking in knee deep or less water.  One could say it was borderline glorified shore break.  There were some gnar tubes to be had. I caught a hand full of really fast running right tubes that I just squeezed out of.  I took plenty of beatings on the shallow sand bank too.  The water quality was nasty since the new bar was just under the sand outflow pipe.  CC paddled towards the end of my session just as the wind came up. I surfed a few more with him till I ate it on a below sea level drainer and dinged the nose of my board. I heard Strand was good but packed.  I’ll take fun empty Hueneme over a crowd any day.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings including the one that I incurred earlier. 

10-27-25 AM Session: 2-4 +ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 2
After nearly a month of watching it I finally decided to pull the trigger and paddle the bar on Rockside. There were chest plus lines running along the razor edge sand bar created courtesy of the Channel Islands Harbor dredging project.  The thing about this bank is that it changes every few hours.  The workers dump hundreds of yards of sand a day.  When the bar is actually happening you have to paddle cause you know it won’t be there tomorrow.   I was stoked.  There were a handful of guys out, mostly Hueneme regulars.  The wave itself is a little tricky on your backhand due to its fast pace and breaking on a very shallow slab of sand.  Besides CC, Mitch and myself everyone was a regular foot.  I made one tube but had plenty of 3-7 turn rides.  Then south wind came up and completely killed it. By the time I got out there was already Van other 100 yards of sand accumulating on the inside. My afternoon was spent fixing dings.

10-26-25 AM Session: 2-3 +ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
Little rise in south swell offered up some right hand freight trains off the south side of the pier. The first half hour of my surf was magical.  Then CC showed up and it completely shut down.  I paddled to the north side but it was just a tad too stretched. We paddled back over to the south side and caught a couple more but it wasn’t even a glimmer of what it had been. I had already got mine.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings.

10-25-25 AM Session: 2-3 +ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
We had more small waves on tap.  The north side of the pier was still doing its thing.  For the third straight morning in a row I got my small wave game on.  My window was short because I had to work a large scale high end event in LA at the Peterson Automotive Museum.  The job was a $2000 a plate fundraiser with 400 people in attendance and nearly 100 vendors.  It was a full red carpet affair.  For me it was a treat to work at this high level again.  I haven’t worked such a grand scale event since before the pandemic.  Back then all I worked were high profile affairs.

10-24-25 AM Session: 2-3 +ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
There was tad bit more swell in the water and conditions were much more clean than yesterday.  The north side of the pier looked surf-able enough and I happily went to town on the small rights and lefts. My afternoon was spent working a wedding welcome party in Carpinteria.  The event was a little hectic due to proximity issues as we had two kitchens separated by two flights of stairs.  This meant a lot of schlepping especially since the traffic coming from Santa Barbara was intense leaving only myself and one server to do all the set up.  Needless to say I was completely exhausted by the end of the night.  Like I always say catering js about logistics.

10-23-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Zuma
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 56
We had another six foot plus high tide to contend with and small conditions.  Hueneme was all mixed up with channel chop making it difficult to find a good line anywhere.  I rolled the dice and drove over to Zuma.  It was borderline almost too high tide even for there.  I found a peak to myself between towers 12-13 and paddled.  It was definitely pretty small but I can grovel with the best of them.  Conditions were glassy and the water was aqua blue.  I managed to get my share of fun rides which is rare for me, Zuma and I have a love hate relationship, more the latter.  I got home and had to watch Adagio as my nanny had to leave early. Nothing like a little father son bonding.

10-22-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 43
This morning the wind decided to be absolutely terrible in Ventura causing me to hit the PCH.  Leo looked fun but had about thirty guys on in with hardly enough waves for ten.  Zach was out there fighting the good fight.  I drove back to County Line but it looked horrible there.  On a last ditch effort I had a look at Zeros.  Though high there were some solid chest plus lines coming through with two guys out. I was on it.  The parking machine was still broken so I was able to park in the lot for free.  Maybe it’s all the years of playing Monopoly as a kid but I love free parking.  With the dropping tide the place was actually kind of pumping.  I was borderline under gunned on my groveler.  From the surf I headed home to meet a customer who was bringing by a ding repair and when he got here it turned out to be one of the two other guys I was just surfing out at Zeros with.  We had a good laugh.  In the evening my wife and I took Adagio to this little Halloween thing Port Hueneme puts on.  They create a makeshift pumpkin patch and every kid goes home with a free pumpkin.  We picked out a tiny one so it was fitting for Adagio’s size.  Then there were a bunch of trick or treating booths, face painting, food trucks and games for the kids.  It was a splendid affair.  Every year I live in Port Hueneme I become more enamored with the camaraderie and friendliness of this little town in the middle of a very densely populated area.  Everyday I find myself more and more proud to call Hueneme my home.

10-21-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 70
I had to take Bizzaro to LAX for an 11am flight to Italy.  We left my house at 5am.  It was my first time driving the PCH through the Palisades fire burn zone.  The amount of devastation was shocking.  Whole neighborhoods completely whipped out.  When we got to the South Bay the fog was crazy thick to the point where I could barely see in front of me.  We got to the airport safe and sound.  He is going to be in Rome till the middle of November.  I’m not sure how my wife and I are going to live without him.  On the way home I met up with CC and Eric at 3rd point Malibu.  It was substantially smaller than yesterday but basically empty.  We were sharing the peak with only three to five other guys, all friends of ours.  The shape was still pretty stretchy but the wave gods shined upon me and I managed to pick off a few decent runners.  I got one head high wave from 3rd through 2nd that I banged out like seven turns on.  I think it was the most fun I have had out there all season.  In the evening I had to work a catering gig on the Condor pleasure boat that runs sunset cruised along the Santa Barbara waterfront. I swear I always get sea sick on this thing and of course the wind had picked up hard causing there to be way more disturbance on the water than I would have liked.  I managed to get through it.  I hate boats.

10-20-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Malibu
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 70
I decided to treat myself to a ‘bu day with the solid south swell numbers on the buoys.  Figuring it late season I was hoping to maybe get it less crowded than usual.  It ended up being stretched,  inconsistent and crowded for what it was. I did manage a few through kiddie bowl before the tide got too low but ultimately I probably should have just stayed home and surfed Hueneme. Zach, Eric and CC were surfing Old Joes because of the crowd to wave ratio.  My afternoon was spent shaping.  So far it seems like every Malibu session I have surfed this season has been a bust. After I finished shaping I was about to jump into the shower when I heard a commotion. Raymundo apparently jumped through screen and bolted. If you have an indoor cat you know how stressful it is when he gets out.  Unfortunately despite our efforts we couldn’t find him and he didn’t come home.  Everyone went to sleep heavy hearted with worry.

10-19-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
My time window was very short this morning as I had a gig to work in Carpinteria mid day.  There was some fresh south swell in the water but it was leaving Hueneme definitely more stretched than one would like.  I saw a few corners on the south side of the pier  and rather than waste a time on a goose chase I paddled.  My first few waves were decent then it got super walled.  The job I was cooking for was a regular client of mine and it was a passed appetizer affair.  As usual everyone was pleased with my work.

10-18-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 2
The Pier had fun rights and lefts coming off the south side with just my boy Jacob on it.  Rather than deliberate I paddled and got on a full froth.  I don’t know what possessed me but I was sticking large air reverse’s and other gnarly combinations.  I even found a few tubes.  Unfortunately half way through my surf I got wrapped up in a fisherman’s line and I guess the shock of it caused him to drop his pole in the water. I tried to retrieve it but between the white wash and murky water I was unsuccessful.  He was pissed and words were had.  I had a cowboy themed wedding to work in Ojai in the evening.

10-17-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
Though smaller than yesterday there were still clean chest plus offshore lines to be had. I paddled the North side of the pier and was joined by CC and Eric.  For moment we had a bit of a Santa Ana flow.  If the waves had been bigger it would have been all time.  That being said there were still a few runners to be had.  Shoots it was just the three of us out there trading fun lefts and rights.  My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards. 

10-16-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
This morning featured another session with clean lines and decent shape albeit just a tad smaller than yesterday.  Stoked I didn’t hesitate to paddle the south side of the pier and dismantle whatever the ocean gave me.  C.C. showed up and we put on a fun display of how backside surfing is done.  It’s been a Hueneme dream run as of late.  In the afternoon Adagio had a doctors appointment, his three month check up.  Once again he was deemed perfectly healthy.   When we got back I got into the shaping room for a little bit.

10-15-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
Miles Driven: 2
Today was one of those rare days where Hueneme shines.  There were peaky barrels to be had up and down the beach.  I’m pretty sure you could have paddled out anywhere from the power plant to rockside and had a good session.  I paddled the south side of the pier alone and immediately started going to town on the clean offshore wind groomed right hand peelers coming off the pilings.  I even packed a handful of really fun tubes in the nasty brown water from both the rain and the harbor dredging. Even as the low tide began to set in it was still very surf-able.  My afternoon was spent fixing dings, hot coating and shaping surfboards. 

10-14-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 4
The first significant rain storm of the winter was in full force this morning. I guess we have officially moved into winter.  The ocean was both a mess on the surface with all the south wind chop and gross in general from all the rain run off.  Around noon the sun came out and I noticed the wind had died. I went back up to the Pier for another look and there were head high plus lefts breaking off the end of the pier and rolling all the way to the beach.  I don’t think I have ever seen that happen.   The water was nasty between the dredging and the fact that the creek opened up and washed a good chunk of the homeless encampment back there out with it.  There was literally a couch floating out in the line up among other debris when I paddled.  Every duck dive I was a bit weary of the fact that I could be impaled any second by some random piece of trash.   Somehow I survived and managed to catch a handful of really fun waves before the fat tide shut it down. My evening was spent getting some long needed office work done for Clarks Surfboards. I had stacks of receipts piling up since August that needed to be filed.

10-13-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
There was some solid South/NW combo making for solid chest to head high rights off the south side of the pier.  I paddled and my first few waves were runners easily good for three to five turns.  Then the wind began to pick up out of the south and steadily trashed the place.  I paddled over to the north side to try and salvage the session.  At this point the waves actually got very consistent but a bad rip formed and I got swept out past the pier.  It took me a moment to paddle back in and by then the wind had completely turned the line up to VAS conditions.  I got one more and paddled in.   I did manage a couple of sick left wedges before I the waves became completely trashed.  In the afternoon my wife and I took Adagio out to Underwood Farms in Moorpark to give him his first pumpkin patch experience.  He slept for the first half hour but then when he woke up he was definitely interested especially when we took him to see the animals.  He was all wide eyed and smiles.  It’s quite amazing what a baby is able to take in.

10-12-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
Sunday is family day thus my wife and son accompanied me to the beach.  The south side of the Pier had offshore peaky rights and lefts with an incoming tide.  There was a healthy crowd but it was all regulars and with the consistency of sets allowed for plenty of waves on tap for all.  I for one got on a serious froth.  After the surf we went back to the house had some breakfast then cruised over to the Camarillo side of the Santa Monica mountains and took Adagio for a stroll in the wilderness.  It was a full day of family fun.

10-11-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 2
Extremely short period wind swell was on tap this morning making for very drifty weak conditions. I paddled the south side of the pier and made the most out of what came through.  The lefts going back into the pier were the real ticket.  After my surf Hueneme was doing this Touch a Truck thing where they bring in all sorts of heavy equipment, trucks, buses, etc and allow all the children to check them out with a hands on experience.  My wife and I took Adagio and I was surprised how much he took in for being so young.  Then he fell asleep, but he definitely saw the gist of the event.  My evening was spent working a wedding in Santa Barbara. 

10-10-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 16
Miles Driven: 2
Another morning with another super high tide. I surfed the south side of pier with CC.  It was chest high onshore but good shape.   CC and I used to surf all the time together but ever since Adagio was born I have been so busy that the two of us haven’t been able to connect for a session. Ultimately the high tide killed it and we basically had to paddle in.  In the evening I had a charity gig to cook for in Santa Barbara.

10-9-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
I always forget how damn annoying the fall and winter morning high tides are to deal with.  Another six foot high tide had me basically surfing glorified shore break on Rockside.  The shape was just about perfect.  Had the tide been a three foot high it could have been all time. I still managed a few tubes and airs. The water was freezing and sets were a tad bit inconsistent.  If it’s too high for Hueneme you know it’s too high for anyplace else. My afternoon was spent watching Adagio cause my Nanny had to leave early.

10-8-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Waddell Creek, Santa Cruz
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 42
A Ganrly 6 ft high tide and south winds didn’t bode for an epic session this morning. I wasn’t about to let that stand in my way to score some fun surf.  After all Bizarro and I drove all the way up to Santa Cruz to not only deliver boards but to surf with our good friend Gabriel Clark, my original business partner who put the “Clarks” in Clarks Surfboards.  Despite Gabe’s protests we made him take us north of town on the search. We Checked Davenport first but it was way too high to even get around the cliff to Shark Bites. Poor Bizarro got wet trying to time the over wash, got frustrated and pulled the plug on the effort.  We did find some sea glass, which Davenport is actually known for.  From what I gather there was a glass factory above on the cliff and lots of their waste got washed into the ocean for years.  The factory is long since shut down but in its wake is lots of special colored and shaped sea glass.  Low tide is usually best for sea glass hunting.  Last time I was up here I found purple glass.  I wanted to look at Waddell even though Gabe swore up and down that it wasn’t going to be good. When we got there we were pleasantly surprised with chest plus lefts and the odd ball right off Old Mans.  There was a pack of eight logs when we showed up but they left shortly after we paddled leaving us the run of the place.  A full on rip fest ensued.  As the tide dropped there were even some head high plus sets running down the reef. We traded off super fun lefts for over an hour and a half.  Gabe was absolutely ripping.  It took me a moment to adjust to the conditions as the waves there a Lee a bit more rolling than I’m used to.  With the lower tide the faces began to stand up more and I got on a real froth.  Bizarro captured all the action, which you can be sure will be featured in one of our YouTube edits soon.  The water actually very warm for Santa Cruz hovering in the low sixties.  We could have surfed and hung out all day. As a parent I have responsibilities and  we had to call it a day so Bizarro and I could get back on the road.  We were already leaving much later than we had initially anticipated.  When the waves are fun and empty sometimes you just have to through caution to the wind and take advantage.  I’d say it was a worth while trip. Please my Santa Cruz friends order more boards so I can make another trip soon. 

10-7-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Moonstone Beach, Cambria
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 175
Bizarro and I headed up to Santa Cruz to deliver boards to Gabe. The plan was to meet up with him for an afternoon surf. We got a call from Gabe that he had to pick up a shift at work and that our best bet was to find something in the SLO zone.  We headed up the PCH.  Morro wasn’t shaping up and Cayucos was small. Pico was chest high, clean and peaky but there was a gigantic feeding frenzy going on in the lineup.  I’m talking easily 1000 sea birds of all varieties feasting on bait fish.  Bigger fish eat those bait fish and then sharks eat those fish.  I decided the risk definitely outweighed the reward.  We checked Moonstone which was actually pretty fun looking, chest plus glassy south runners with only three guys out.  I was so excited I ran down and paddled out without putting in my fins.  You can imagine my surprise when I dropped into my first wave and completely slid out.  Bizarro had a good laugh at my expense.  I ran back to the car and added fins.  After that I got into a full on rip fest.  The other guys left and I had the whole beach to myself.  Unfortunately the low tide ended up killing it.  The waves sure were fun while it lasted.  The PCH through Big Sur was still closed thus we had to back track a little bit to get to the 101.  That stretch of freeway from Paso to Salinas is by far the most boring drive ever.  Bizarro and I were starving since we skipped lunch.  Our hunger was satisfied by an all you can eat sushi joint in the downtown area.  We without a doubt as we always do at all you can eat places for our money worth.  Finally we met up with Gabe at his apartment on the West Side hopefully we can score something fun tomorrow morning.

10-6-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 min
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 2
All that was left in the water was some small long period south swell with a six foot high tide.  By tower six on the south side of the pier there was a back washy left that I somehow got a real handle on and began ripping the crap out of it.  Normally I suck at surfing that wave.  Towards the end of my surf I caught a few on the north side of the pier as well.  I ran into CC on the way out. My afternoon was spent finishing up the batch of boards that Bizarro and I are bringing up to Santa Cruz tomorrow.

10-5-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
Sunday is always family day.  My wife and baby accompanied me down to the beach.  The north side of the pier had some fun peaky chest high lefts rolling off it. I jumped in and got on a fun little froth.  The dropping tide began taking its toll sucking the swell out of Hueneme as it always does.  Then the wind came up out of the SW putting the final kibosh on the session.  My wife and I had a ton of errands to catch up on.  We had our Nanny work the afternoon so we could handle basically a month’s worth of errands in 4 hours.  If you’re a parent you understand just how hard it is to get anything done let alone have free time for activities.  Just ask my poor golf clubs which have been sitting collecting dust for over two months now.  Don’t have kids they steal all your free time.

10-4-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 10
The first NW wind swell of some notable size was showing at the Ship. Of course it was on a Saturday and the line up was stupid crowded for what was high tide chest to head high below average conditions.  My time was limited as I had to work a wedding in Santa Barbara.  I paddled and hung close to the jetty since the majority of the crowd was sitting between tower five and the shit pipe.  Considering the fat tide getting a good one off the Ship took patience and a bit of finesse.  I made the most of it and definitely got my share.  Towards the end of my surf these teens paddled out and one of them riding a mid length sort of thing took it upon himself to repeatedly back paddle me.  I had never seen the kid before and after the third time I decided to tell him something.  He called me a kook, called me out on not being a local like him and told me I should paddle in.  I laughed at the guy because though I wasn’t born there as he pointed out I have been surfing Strand for nearly twenty years, more than he has been alive.  He wouldn’t shut up so finally I told him if he needed more satisfaction I’d be glad to take it to the beach.  Dude claimed to only be 16 and started sounded off that I wanted to fight a minor.  At this point it had gotten past the window I had left to surf and had to get out.  Normally in such I situation I would have continued surfing if for no other reason than to prove a point.  I don’t get this younger generation with absolutely no respect for those who came before them.  Maybe it’s just a sign that I’m getting too old for this bull shit.  All I know is that I certainly hope to raise my son better.  My evening was spent working a wedding in Santa Barbara.

10-3-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 15m
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 44
Ventura was plagued with hard NW winds this morning.  I headed down south along the PCH.  The majority of the swell was very short period wind swell with some minor south mixed in.  Zeros though mixed up looked the best of it and since the parking machine was broken I could park in the lot.  It wasn’t anything special but with only two other guys out and my trusty Bizzle Model from Clarks Surfboards I got on a real froth.  On the inside there was an absurd amount of sea weed floating around.  I came down from a solid tail free hit and got thrown from my board like hitting a rock on a skate board due to the giant seaweed cluster.  Instantly I was thrust into a very serious situation.  Myself, board and leash were completely tangled up in the seaweed. So much so that I couldn’t really move.  Luckily it wasn’t big or I could have been in real trouble.  The last thing you want to do in a situation like this is panic.  I kept myself afloat and attempted to remove my leash, which I was successful.  Then while holding onto said leash I freed myself from the seaweed then retrieved my board.  It was a bit of an ordeal.  Worse case scenario if I couldn’t free myself I would have let the waves wash me into the beach and then figured it out on land.  Shortly after the hard NW wind I had hoped to evade from Ventura had caught up with me and I called it a day.  My afternoon was spent sanding away at surfboards.

10-2-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Little Sunset
Time in Water: 1 hrs
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 22
Some days I should just stay home and surf Hueneme rather than drive around in circles only to surf bad waves anyway.  I got word while checking lack luster pier that Shores was good.  When I got there though some good corners were abound it was mostly close outs.  I watched the surf for a good fifteen minutes and didn’t see anyone make a wave and there were enough decent surfers that someone should have been able to sell it to me.  My next stop was strand.  The north end was small, the bowl was stretched and the ship was small.  While there I ran into my friend Mitch who convinced me to go have a look at little sunset with him.  At this point I was quickly running out of time and decided to just paddle.  It was back washy and in classic Little Sunset fashion waves were very hard to line up.  My best ones were lefts which should say something considering Little Sunset is a right.  The majority were just big sweeping close outs.   Then the wind came up.  I hate swell days. My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards.

10-1-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 16
The swell had dropped a little bit but there was so much combo that the ocean didn’t really know what to do with itself.  Some Narda left overs were on offer along with, a long period south and a short period NW wind swell. The tide was already too low for Hueneme and Strand was small.  The Shores had some chest plus crossed up tubing bowls to be had with no one out. I paddled and realized with all the combo it was very difficult to set up a wave.  When I did lock into a good one there were some sick little pits to be had.  Feeling a little surfed out and worked from my trip I definitely didn’t utilize the conditions the best I possibly could.  After about an hour south winds came up trashing the place.  I got home to find that my baby had a blow out in his stroller.  Ultimately I had to take the entire thing apart to clean it.  Just another adventure in parenting.  When that task was completed I spent the rest of the day building surfboards in one aspect or another.