Surfing Ruined My Life

September 2025 Surf Sessions

9-30-25 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, K55 1/2, Baja
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 0
It was our last morning, heck last few hours of our stay.  I got up early and ran back down to the point for one last session.  I swear I could move down there and just spent my days hanging out and surfing.  Alas, I have a kid to care for who was awaiting my return.  The past 48 hours were a godsend for us.  We love our baby and missed him to death but it was nice to have just a moment to ourselves and remember that we still had an identity besides parents. This morning was light offshore and fairly consistent with about six guys out.  The waves were really fun chest to head high plus.  Sadly my old man body was definitely feeling the tax from surfing twice a day for two days in a row.  I must admit I was struggling a bit.   That being said I still had a blast and got on a froth.  Luckily for me the wind came up super hard out of the NW trashing the waves or I might have surfed too long.  Our border crossing was rather uneventful.  I grilled carne asada for my wife’s mom and sister before we hit the road back home to Port Hueneme.  

9-29-25 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, K55 1/2, Baja
Time in Water: 1 hr 15m
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 0
I wasn’t planning on surfing a second session today.  My wife got a well deserved message (if you’re a new parent you know) and then passed out after.  I decided to occupy my time with a walk around the grounds.  In doing so I saw that the swell had really picked up from the morning.  I suited up and ran back down to the reef point.  Though windy the inside was clean once you negotiated some of the outside chop.  There were about seven of us out.  Sets were a bit sweepy making the peak very shifty. There was even the odd ball bomb close out.  I was a bit under gunned on a few of the big ones riding my 5’7.  It was still a really fun session.  I got back just after dark and my wife and I did dinner at this new restaurant a few miles north of where we were staying maybe around K53 or so called Punta Bahia.  The entire restaurant was filled with pumpkins to the point where when we first walked in we thought it was a pop up pumpkin patch.   We were the only ones there and the staff rolled out the red carpet service for us.  I think the last time I was so well served it was at a Michelin caliber spot.  The food was ok but the dining experience made up for it.  Apparently they are building a Roman Coliseum themed restaurant next door that will feature gladiator shows.  Can’t wait to check that out next trip.

9-29-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, K55 1/2, Baja
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 0
The morning set up nice glassy conditions with a five foot high tide around eleven.  There was a once again about five guys or so depending on fluctuation on the reef.  The waves were a bit more consistent albeit smaller than last night.  The smaller inside ones were actually standing up on the reef better than the outside waves.  I sat inside by myself and went to town killing the rip-able lines. I had a really fun time and was super stoked that in this day and age you can get a wave that good with a light crowd.  Everyone was respectful and everyone was hooting.  Grins for ear to ear were worn by all.  If that wave was in Southern California there would be fifty guys on it and it would be absolutely ruined.  After the surf my wife and I did the high tide shuffle back to our abode then got lunch at this excellent little place around K45 called Kraken.  I highly recommend it if you’re in the area.

9-28-25 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, K55 1/2, Baja
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 12
Miles Driven: 0
Normally I don’t surf twice unless it’s firing but considering my first session was pretty much a bust and the fact that I’m on vacation I decided to walk down to the right point K55 1/2 for an evening session.  It was easily a 3/4 mile walk from where we were staying so by the time my wife and I got there I only had about an hour of light left.  The SE swell was a strange angle for the reef making it a bit more stretched than normal with even the odd ball close out set.  It was about chest to head plus and had some side shore wind on it with a bit of chop on the initial drop.  There were about five other guys out, all owners which left me at the bottom of the rotation as a guest.  I’m scrappy so it wasn’t a problem.  Most sets only had two or three waves in them and it was somewhat inconsistent hence my diminutive wave count of 12.  That being said they were all decent runners down the reef.  We got back to our rental basically at dark.  I cooked up filet mignon and tortellini.  After dinner our host invited my wife and I over to her house for a little cocktail party she was having.  It was a fun eclectic group of people and we had a blast.

9-28-25 AM Session: 6-8+ ft, K55, Baja California
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 8
Miles Driven: 0

We got into Mexico around 10am and headed for the coast. Once over there I was pleasantly surprised with how much swell from Narda was showing. Baja Malibu was easily double over head and the only guys out were doing step offs. Our destination was K55 where there is a private community with a handful of breaks located with in the gated area. The beauty of this zone is that the cliffs are so high all around that only owners and guest can access the waves keeping the crowds under control. We had rented a two bedroom guest house for our time south of the border. The beach break at K55 looked clean and very do-able. No one was out so it was hard to really get an accurate scale on the waves. As soon as I got out there I realized it was well overhead. There was also a lot of water moving around and some gnarly rip tides. I fought the good fight but ultimately I only made one tube before the wind came up and trashed it besides that everything else I pulled into ate me alive. I got in just in time to rescue my wife and camera from a tidal surge. Our clothes, tent my board bag got soaked. Post surf we headed to Puerto Nuevo to gorge ourselves with lobster. Prices have gone up quite a bit since last time we were there and for $80 USD we got two medium lobsters each, rice and beans. It was still a fine repast but man this runaway inflation has definitely gotten out of hand.

9-27-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Blacks Beach, SD
Time in Water: 2 hr
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 48 (from Chula Vista)
Somehow we successfully made it to San Diego with Adagio in tow without any baby meltdowns.  When we woke up we got my wife’s mother situated with the task of watching Adagio.  Then my wife went on her way to her party and I decided to cruise to Blacks Beach and see if I could find a wave.  The Narda swell was just starting to show and there was also some NW wind swell in the water.   I got down there and it was chest plus with clean lines.  The bulk of the crowd was surfing way to the north.  There were a handful of guys sitting in the middle of the beach where the lifeguards set up. I found my own left down closer to the access ramp.  Most of the waves were a little bit stretched.  I managed to get out in front of a few and turn them into something.  I must have made it look fun enough considering six guys proceeded to paddle over and crowd me.  Even then I managed a couple of solid airs.  The wind came up and put too much chop on the face to the point that I could no longer get through the racy sections.  I had a look at the La Jolla reefs after my surf but the Narda swell still wasn’t showing enough to light any of those spots up.  I headed back to Chula Vista to check on my son.  I had the realization that Chula Vista is a San Diego version of Oxnard.  I cooked up a superb repast of Chicken Piccata in gratitude for my mother-in-law watching my kid.  Tomorrow my wife and I cruise into Baja

9-26-25 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Today was just as small if not smaller than yesterday. For me the lack of surf was ok since I had two back to back catering gigs to work leaving me very little time to surf.  First I had a corporate BBQ lunch to work in Carpinteria.  I do this gig every year, chicken, Tri Tip and ribs cooked pit BBQ style for roughly 200 people.  This year the numbers had dropped to 160.  I wonder if that meant forty people got fired since last year?  In the evening I had a piaya wedding to work in SB. It had been year or so since the last time I had to make piaya in front of guests.  It went off without a hitch.  Then I got home, packed the car and my wife, baby and I shoved off for San Diego at 9pm.  My wife has a party to attend in Chula Vista on Saturday.  Then her and I are going to leave Adagio with her Mom in SD and we are taking off to north Baja for two days.  It will be the first time we are alone since our child was born.  I think it’s a well deserved getaway.  Parenting is hard and I for one could use a break. Photo from Ventura Point Surfline cam

9-25-25 No Surfing: 1-2 ft
Miles Driven: 2
This morning although Surfline claimed there was supposed to be a bit more swell than the previous days, in actuality the surf was the weakest I’ve seen.  There was just nothing worth while out there.  I went home and got an early jump on surfboard work.  Some dude from the Solar power company we have contracted out to put solar panels on our roof came by to survey the project.  With any luck we will be generating our own power by 2026. 

9-24-25 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 15
Miles Driven: 2
Last night we had one of the gnarliest thunderstorms I have ever experienced in California.  For three hours Oxnard got hit with a heavy amount of thunder and lightning plus picked up a half inch or so of rain.  That’s a heck of a lot for the fall.  The storm did nothing for the surf as I found myself staring at knee to waist high Pier.  As usual when it’s tiny I end up paddling all over the beach, both sides of the Pier as well in order to get my wave count and keep myself busy.  My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards.

9-23-25 AM Session: 1-2+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 19
Miles Driven: 2
Today was just about as small as I’ll surf.  Jeffrey was frothy thus the two of us paddled knee waist high rockside on a very high tide.  It was a real grovel out there but l had not surfed with Jeffrey in a minute and it was nice to catch up.  My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards.

9-22-25 AM Session: 1-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 2
Talk about small, today took the cake.  I surfed tiny inconsistent hight tide pier.  It was yet another day where I Started on north side finished south side. I ran into a random blog reader from Oceanside on the pier while I was checking it.  My afternoon was spent glassing surfboards in a hot uncomfortable trailer.

9-21-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
There was some very small short period wind swell in the water that was mixing with the minor south I have been pillaging the past few days. Even though the wind was light the junky five second interval wind swell was basically trashing the shape.  I paddled the north side of the pier, over to the south side of the pier back to the north side then the middle of the beach between Rockside and the Pier.  No matter where I went I couldn’t make anything happen for me.  Eventually I threw in the towel.  I wanted to get some surfboard work done in the afternoon but my son gave me the Dad stay and hang out with Mom and me eyes.  I couldn’t say no to his cute little face and took the afternoon off.

9-20-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Miles Driven: 2
After many sunny mornings the fog was back with a vengeance this morning.  I saw a few corners over on Rockside and gave it a paddle.  It was your standard junky Hueneme session of closed out corners and the odd ball freak wave one can managed three turns on that always seems to come in once during your surf. My afternoon/evening was consumed by a catering gig in Santa Barbara.

9-19-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
Miles Driven: 55
A slight rise in tropical swell picked the size up just a notch.  I had a look at the Pier.  Though a little stretched there were a few corners to be had.  There were ten guys or so out on both sides and no one was really getting any great rides. If no one was out I probably would’ve paddled but considering what was on offer I was over it and headed down south. Once again I found myself at Zeros where there were fun enough chest plus lefts with a very manageable crowd.  I enjoyed it.  In the afternoon my wife and I met up with my friend Mike to discuss putting up solar panels on my roof.  We came to a decent deal and in about three months we will be generating our own power free from the grid.  Hopefully we will even be able to sell some of our excess back out to the grid.  After the meeting I got word that Shores was “firing”.  By the time I got there the wind was on it and though it still looked very surf-able it really wasn’t the quality I was looking for to paddle a second session.  It has to be almost magazine quality or I’m on a surf trip for me to paddle twice in one day.  The extra surf really puts a strain on my body and can jeopardize my next days surf.  I passed and went home to get some more shaping done. 

9-18-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 41
I was awoken by the sound of heavy rain at around 5am this morning.  Normally I’m used to being woken up by a crying baby so the change was somewhat welcoming.  I guess that little tropical system had made its way up the coast.  The wind was super hard onshore all over Ventura.  The LA cams looked pretty clean thus I headed that way.  Thornhill actually had a peaky chest high wave with a handful of guys out.  It wasn’t really barreling and if there are no tubes, that wave isn’t really worth anything.  County was small and onshore.  Leo was more crowded than yesterday and even more inconsistent.  Zeros had a decent line thanks to the tropical angle of the swell with only a few guys out.  I paddled and it was actually pretty skate park like peaky.  Eventually as the tide dropped the low tide crew showed up making it a bit more crowded than it was worth.  By then I had already got my waves.  I had busy afternoon of shaping to handle.

9-17-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Zeros/Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 5
Miles Driven: 41
Today was a complete bust as far as surfing went.  I should have just stayed home and had Bizarro spray me in the face with a garden hose.  Biz and I headed south cause it was as per usual already windy at home.  Since that was the case we met Zach at Zeros to deliver him his new  board and do a little new board shoot with him.  The tide was really high and even though Surfline claimed today was supposed to be the best day of the swell it was tiny.  We took our time getting ready hoping that as the tide dropped the surf would get better in classic Zeros fashion.  As soon as I hit the water the wind came up atomic out of NW.  Conditions steadily became not surf-able before I even caught a wave.  I cut my foot on my fin on my second wave and quit on my third. In an attempt to salvage the day Bizarro and I drove to Leo still in my suit.  It was shit house packed shoulder to shoulder for very inconsistent waist to chest high waves.  I caught two waves in a half hour one of which I got burned and the other some kook got in my way on the best section.  Completely frustrated I went home where I spent my afternoon shaping surfboards. Photo is of Zach at Zeros with his new board with a wave in the background.

9-16-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 11
Miles Driven: 14
I should have taken Jeffrey’s advice and paddled the Pier.  He was at the Harbor where it was nothing special.  I did see some peaky waist to chest high waves. It was a little on the shrinky side and with the dropping tide I was a little skeptical. Instead I went on a goose chase to shores.    Thought there were waves it was definitely on the soft and inconsistent side not to mention crowded.  The wind was also picking up onshore.  I drove back to the Pier which I my opinion had looked more fun, suited up and paddled. Unfortunately the dropping tide and wind had killed it within the first fifteen minutes of the surf.  My session was spent paddling back and forth from north side to south side basically not getting anything.  In the afternoon I spent my time boxing up a batch of boards to send to my boy AJ and his friends in South Carolina.

9-15-25 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Silver Strand
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 12
There was a bit more wind swell in the water and after a fruitless Hueneme check I drove over to Strand to meet a customer.  Though nothing special there was enough of a wave in the bowl to peak my interest.  Since I haven’t surfed Strand in two months I let nostalgia get the best of me and paddled out with my bud Rob.  We ended up making the most of the weird, back wash riddled stretchy rights in the South Bowl.  Rumor had it Shores was the call, though the intel I got which lead me to paddle Strand was the opposite.  Go figure.  My afternoon was spent shaping.

9-14-25 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
Miles Driven: 12
The swell went more west this morning yet Hueneme was still pretty walled.  I saw some potential corners and maybe a barrel or two but overall the probability of having a really good session was low.  Ultimately I surfed Hollywood cause I saw a bunch of fun waves when I checked it, but the swell faded fast to the point where I almost had to paddle in towards the end of my session.  It was a beautiful day at the beach and since I had my wife and baby there, after the surf we hung out for a little bit.  Surf wise I guess I should have surfed Hueneme and took my chances.  My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards. 

9-13-25 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 16
The first semblance of a NW swell sort of showed itself in the form of a mid period steep swell that was as selective as selective gets.  There was also some SW in the water as well.  Hueneme was stretched with poor overall shape.  I drove over to Strand where there was a wasit to chest high wave in the bowl with about thirty guys on it.  I wasn’t all that excited.  I’d also like to note that the gnarly seal colony that called the beach and lineup at on the North Strand home last winter is back again.  I guess we can look forward to their aggressive antics and the odd Orca attack.  From Strand I drove to Hollywood where I ultimately paddled some glassy, peaky shore break style barrels.  I packed three really cherry tubes before the wind went south just as Jeffery showed up.  It was still at that point somewhat rip-able.  By the time Ryan showed up about forty minutes into the surf the lineup had gotten weird and wonky thanks to the wind and fat tide.  Jeffery and I fought the good fight for another forty five minutes before throwing in the towel.  My afternoon was spent working a wedding in Thousand Oaks.

9-12-25 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
The one thing I love about Hueneme is that when every place else is absolutely horrible due to small waves and high tide that is when Hueneme shines.  My family came along with me and watched as I assaulted the tiny waist plus waves that Rockside had to offer.  I was surprised how much fun I had despite the grotesque conditions.  After the surf my wife and I left Adagio with the nanny and decided to try the newly re-opened Roxbury Deli.  The original had closed about a year ago and though the food was nothing special it was nice to have an actual deli in the neighborhood.  Sadly the food was well below my standard or enjoyment.  The sandwiches were tiny, I had to ask for spicy mustard.  My wife was unhappy with her side of potato salad and claimed her pickle was too hard (whatever that meant).  Needless to say we will not be eating there again anytime soon. How hard is it for a restaurant to make decent food these days?  My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards.

9-11-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
This morning marked the return of the extreme morning high tides.  After three months of either drained out or manageable tides we are making the switch back to fat tide mornings and the bob and weave it takes to surf on them.  Between the six foot high and just minuscule south swell Rockside Hueneme was just about the only option in my zone.  I paddled and Jeffery came and met me. The session was pretty grindy but I did find a few fun ones considering how bad it was. My afternoon was once again spent on the roof of my sketchy trailer installing another whirly bird to give even more ventilation to my make shift glass shop.  Timing is everything now that the summer is over.  Could have used them two months ago.  Beggars can’t be choosers.  It’s game on now. Maybe I’ll be able to start taking on some glass work soon.

9-10-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, County Line
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 42
Hueneme had some funky channel chop on it which provoked me to head down the PCH in search of something better.  I saw a few on the reef at County Line that looked surf-able. Taking the incoming fat tide into consideration I had a quick Look at Leo.  It was packed and too small and inconsistent for the crowd.  I resolved to just paddling County on the inside of the Reef.  I actually got on a froth and over sold it.  With in a half hour of paddling I got mobbed by easily fifteen random guys that clogged my peak and were constantly in my way.  I basically had to put my blinders on and surf around the infidels.  My afternoon was spent cutting a hole in my glassing container to add a whirlybird to the roof in order get more ventilation.  It was a bit of a daunting task since all I had to work with was a grinder and other crude tools. A hole was made and some scrap fiberglass added to for extra weather proofing.  Tomorrow I have to go back and cut the other one. 

9-9-25 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Port Hueneme
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
Miles Driven: 2
When it’s high tide and small combo swell one should look no further than Hueneme.  The north side of the Pier had some close out corners with clean conditions.  I jumped in followed by a belated Jeffrey who managed to bring the south wind with him.  The first half hour was pretty fun.  The south wind eventually killed it.  I spent my afternoon glassing. 

9-8-25 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Leo Carrillo
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 10
Miles Driven: 42
Surfing everyday is hard enough as it is, throw in being a parent and it becomes quite the conundrum at times.  Still I do my best to juggle surfing full time and my regular life.  My nanny had an issue this morning forcing me to have to watch my kid till 11pm. By this point the wind had already come up forcing me to endure a subpar somewhat busy day at Leo.  Luckily for me the inside high tide wedge was working just under the rock.  I sat there and destroyed what inside double ups that came my way.  The tide was dropping fast steadily lowering the quality of the surf.  Considering this of I kept my session short and headed home to sand surfboards. 

9-7-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 18
Miles Driven: 2
With a slight drop in swell Hueneme still seemed to have the best of the worst.  Sets were a bit more stretched and the NW wind was already on it from early.  I paddled the south side of the Pier to compensate for the wind.  Most of the sets were dumpy close outs with few corners on offer.  Tracking down a good one was near to impossible. The water temp dropped about five degrees as well.  I made the most of it and stacked a handful of clips with my wife behind the camera.  My afternoon was spent working a charity event in Santa Barbara.

9-6-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 27
Miles Driven: 2
This morning I headed back to the Northside of the Pier which was cleaner, bigger and slightly better shape than yesterday.  The right going back towards the pier was the ticket this morning.  A few years ago there was a sand bar that allowed for up to four turns before running into the pilings.  It appears that we may just have that same bar starting to set up for the fall.  I got on a froth.  There was a very nice air section that I kept trying to stick a full rotation backside air reverse on to no avail.  I had a couple of almost makes but never got the ride out.  Ultimately the wind and high tide turned it off.  The rest of my day was spent working a catering gig in Santa Barbara.

9-5-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Hueneme
Time in Water: 1 hr 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 2
I had a short window today as my wife and I were going shopping for a new car to replace the now defunct Jeep.  I cruised up the street and paddled a somewhat stretched northside of the Pier.  I managed a couple of tubes that stoked me out despite the south wind.  It was just what I needed to get me through an afternoon of car shopping with my wife.  I’m pretty good at bargaining so we were going to get the best deal possible.  My wife wanted to get a Toyota Rav 4.  She had one for over ten years before we got the Jeep and loved it.  We hunted down some decent pre-owned deals which lead us to Mazda of Oxnard where they had 2023 in white with just over 9000 miles on it.  She drove it, liked it and after a bit of negotiations we bought it.  The car is great and we needed a reliable family car now that Adagio is riding with us. To celebrate I took my wife to Portola for dinner. 

9-4-25 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 28
Miles Driven: 44
Wow, a Zeros hat trick!! More wind and junk conditions at home lead me back to Zeros.  From the cliff the surf actually looked kind of weak but as it turned out there were some good crossed up SW/NW combo peaks to be had.  Zach, Garrett and I got on a froth and it became a full on rip fest.  For whatever reason the crowd stayed rather light.  My afternoon was spent in the pursuit of ding repair.

9-3-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 44
Another whatever day in Ventura send me back down the PCH where I once again found myself paddling Zeros.  It was clean, chest high and looked fun enough.  The only bummer was the crowd was a bit intense making it a little on the cluster fuck side. Sometimes the line up becomes so swarmed that it’s hard to even set up a wave without someone being in the way.  I still managed to get mine regardless. My afternoon was spent sanding surfboards. 

9-2-25 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Zeros
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 20
Miles Driven: 44
Of course this morning the Ventura junk wind was back and Hueneme was still closing out.  Jeffery and I decided to give Base a look, but the past few south swells have completely swept all the sand away from the break wall leaving the place not surf-able except for on the lowest of tides.  From there we hit the PCH.   When we got to County Line the wind was hard south trashing most spots.  Zeros was still do-able though looking a little soft on the fat tide.  I can’t in good conscience subject my regular foot friends to Zeros unless it’s the only available option.  We had a look at Zuma which was way too dumpy.  Backed into a corner we paddled Zeros.  Thanks to the wind the two of us basically had the place to ourselves.  At one point conditions even glassed off before the wind turned hard out of the NW completely trashing what sub par waves were on offer.  The whole session I was completely exhausted thanks Adagio keeping my wife and I up all night.  Some days I wonder how I keep on keeping on.  Child rearing is not an easy task and I’m sure it’s shaving years off my life.  Speaking of shaving years off my life the afternoon was spent sanding surfboards. 

9-1-25 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Hollywood
Time in Water: 1 hr 30 mins
Waves Surfed: 21
Miles Driven: 10
This morning there was finally a little bit of size to contend with as it was the peak of the south swell.  I got word early from a number of people that Shores was solid but crowded.  My family and I cruised to Hollywood.  I’ve been scoring there all summer and figured why not push the envelope a little further.  Sure enough there were solid head to overhead peaks rolling in.  To my surprise there were also about twenty or so guys spread out among a handful of peaks.  Maybe I have been talking the place up a bit too much as of late.  I set up my wife and baby in their little tent and paddled.  There was a lot of water moving around out there and the majority of the waves were a bit stretched.  That being said there were definitely some corners and lines to chase down. I managed a few tubes and plenty of solid hits and airs.  As the tide filled in the waves got pretty backwash riddled.  Despite everything I thought it was a rather thrilling morning of surf.  We got home and ate some lunch.  My wife and baby decided to take a nap, while I settled in to watch the WSL finals at Cloud Break.  It was a shame the world title had to be decided in marginal head high Fiji.  Sure I would have been stoked to surf those conditions but to watch the top five surfers slog it out in subpar surf for the championship was just a fitting anticlimactic end to yet another lackluster year of the World Surf League.  Both Yago and Molly to their credit surfed their brains out and truly deserved their titles.