May 2014 Surf Sessions
5-31-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 15
Over the wind and with the threat of receding swell all day I decided to just get up early and dawn patrol the Harbor. I was hoping for either small but kill-able River Mouth with the low tide. Unfortunately too much wind swell had filled in and for the most part overrun the south swell thus I was left with weak, wobbly, shifty New Jetty. I was tired from waking up so early and overall just completely uninspired. I found a few, but it was totally not worth the early wake up. With that a perfect month of surfing was achieved, 31 days and 31 surf sessions. I think it is the first time in my life I can say such a thing. Maybe in New Zealand?
5-30-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 27
Just another onshore afternoon seems to be my new motto these days. When you don’t get off from work till 2 pm that becomes your reality, surf it onshore and blown out or don’t surf it at all. I went to Emma, but it was small all sorts of terrible. I figured why not check the Harbor at the very least it would kill some time. I pulled up an of course it was windy as all fuck. Nothing channels in the wind like Ventura Harbor. There were two kooks getting blown around out at New Jetty. Although fucking god awful I saw a few inside reforms that looked like it might be worth it. Best of the worst or worst of the worst your guess is as good as mine. I ended up getting a few decent ones despite the conditions. I am, after all a slopper. Yes the below picture actually makes it look better then it was.
5-29-14 AM Session: 3-4+ ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 2 hrs 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 29
My initial plan was to go Jalama, but my neck was pretty inflamed when I woke up. Ryan said River Mouth looked fun so I just decided to go to the Harbor and get a few and call it a day, rather then go through the marathon that Jalama would be. I got there and maybe I missed the window cause River Mouth looked fat, weak, slow and crowded. I saw a few solid ones at New Jetty with a light crowd and paddled. When I first got out there I had a few decent ones though my neck kept my overall enjoyment and utilization of the waves on offer very limited. Then the tide came up and things got even fatter and less consistent. I paddled all over the place trying to mine gold out of coal and coming up short. Trevor showed up and the inside got a little better though still far from exciting. Finally the wind came up and we called it. What a let down of a surf. I guess after the last two Jalama sessions it was bound to happen. Looks like a serious flat spell is coming up for here and a windy spell for up north. I may have to actually catch up on my real life.
5-28-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 21
Ok, I should have either just went back to Jalama gaing or went to Malibu like I intended. For whatever reason Ryan and I thought the River Mouth mid day was going to be the call. It wasn’t. Also my girl and I had an exhausting fight that lasted nearly 30 hours. After making up I decided to sleep in for a change. Calvin and I made a dank ass rancho style breakfast then cruised south. My plan was to check the Harbor and if that sucked just roll south till I found something worth a surf. I ate up way too much time at the Harbor and it was like 4:30pm. The thought of rolling down to Malibu for the post work shift seemed like a very bad idea to me. I noticed some waves at both Emma Wood and Solimar on the drive down and with incoming tide and rising swell I figured one would be the ticket, maybe even the Gold Coast. None of the above were anything to write home about. I picked Solimar thinking it was the best of the worst. I also brought my new J7 with me for a try. There were some really decent waves coming in, but it was very inconsistent making sets few and far between and the small ones were weak and terrible. The board felt good for what I was trying to surf, but in conditions that small and weak its hard to tell. Unfortunately I tweaked my neck pulling a solid fs air reverse on my fourth wave and it left me stiff for the remainder of the session. Later on that night I was in a bit of pain that carried over to the next day. At dinner Calvin and I served up a sick ass Vodka red sauce with sauteed scallops and stuffed clams.
5-27-14 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
I checked the cam at Jalama after Trevor confirmed that everything was small and not worth much more then a grovel. It looked clean enough and even messy Jalama would be no worse and probably better then anything my usual post work small wave haunts might produce. Trevor was down to roll and with a partner in crime Jalama is always a good call. We got up there and sure enough things were still pretty clean though there was some wind. There was also a bit more wind swell then south swell making things a bit more disorganized. Still I saw a few bowls to be had around Cracks. As soon as we got to cracks the wind went from average to terrible blowing it out to shit. When that happens most of the time I can still ride the right at Tarantellas and get a semi-kill-able face. It was surf-able there but far from fun looking. Then as Trevor was trying to light his batty I noticed a left breaking rather clean in the middle of the bay just south of the right at T’s. After watching it for around twenty minutes or so it was confirmed that it looked very do-able. We jumped in for a paddle. I knew this was going to be a little bit on the sharky side. The reef was easily 150-200 yards from the beach and when I got out there I swam as far down as my leash would allow and could not hit bottom. It was deep water. The wave ran straight in too meaning the water was deep all around it. It was basically a sharks dream, a deep water reef. There were seals swimming around as well. Basically if you have a fear of the shark you would not be able to surf this place. There was lots of kelp and the water was cloudy. We got out there and right off the bat I stroked into a left that I though was going to be like chest high, but was more like over my head when it hit the reef and had way more push then it looked like from shore. The wave just bowled in a straight line for an easy 50 yards and longer on the good ones. It was as rip-able as waves get. Trevor even found a barrel on one. There was sort of a right too, but it was mushier and sectiony. At first it was hard to line up till got myself a line up marker on the shore. Slowly the tide began to rise taking a serious toll on the wave leaving us out the back having to paddle in against a heavy rip tide. As we were leaving we noticed the wind died and paddled for a few more at Cracks, which was solid over head. Unfortunately the wind came up hard again ruining what would have been a potential barrel fest. We went in and changed. On the walk back to the car the wind went fucking offshore. Jalama is a crazy place.
5-26-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Jalama
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
Wow, what a score! I got out of work and all reports were saying to stay home. Then I just for shits and giggles decided to give a look at the Jalama cam. I noticed it looked clean though the wind was blowing like all hell in SB. I called my lady to see if she wanted to join me being it was a nice day. If the surf were terrible then we could at least hang out and take in the scenery. Turns out when we got up there that Cracks was as clean as it gets for the afternoon and solid chest to head high with no one out. I paddled and had sick ass session and got one of the more solid tubes I have in some time. Then towards the end of the evening it glassed off. Who could ask for anything more? Certainly not I.
5-25-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
After a mellow day of kicking it, getting breakfast a Garrett’s with my lady, then attending a little Memorial Day party with my girl, Calvin and Geoffrey at his sister’s house who happens to be a very accomplished classical string player for the Santa Barbara Symphony. I must say it was a splendid little shindig. Unfortunately I was a bit behind the eight ball all day thanks to a heavy night at the Wild Cat courtesy of Calvin’s first night out. We bailed from the party at around six. My girl and I snatched up Trevor and rolled down to Emma for a surf. Conditions were pretty meager with the high tide, but we did find a few. I even managed a pretty solid little barrel. For what I thought was going to be a terrible surf things turned out to be pretty funny.
5-24-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, The Stair Case
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 30
I got out of work and although not much was showing on the buoys and a less then stellar forecast I decided to drive for I surf. I was hoping to find a wave at Indicator, but the lack of swell and high tide put a damper on those plans. I headed to Emma. That was crowded and weak looking. I noticed a few at the Stair Case while driving by and went back to it. Two guys were out and although on the small side the waves had perfect shape and looked Kill-able. I watched it for a bit just to make sure there were enough for all of us to share. There were ample waves coming in so I paddled. It was a fun time. Few people surf small perfect waves as well as I do, well maybe everyone in Florida.
5-23-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
I lent my car to JP cause he needed to pick his girl friend at LAX. My girl was nice enough to come grab me at Westmont and take me for a surf or grovel in this case. There was new south in the water though a bit on the small side as it was still filling in. It was also super long period making things a bit on the lully side. Throw in a frothy holiday weekend crowd and you had a less then stellar session. That being said I found a few alright lefts despite all the frustration. It beat not surfing. Still I must say I hate south swells. NW’s are still way more fun in my opinion.
5-22-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 38
With the low tide hitting a .3 at 11am I headed to Ventura Harbor hoping to get some kill-able New Jetty. What I found was small mushy garbage with a strong onshore wind. Trevor hit me up right as I was about to attempt to bury myself alive on top of the dunes claiming Emma looked fun. I cruised over there and it was clean with good shape but on the smaller side. We watched as two mini-groms were getting shacked on the small waves on offer trying to do the math on how big it actually was considering the kids were like 3 feet tall. I definitely saw a few, Trevor was down so we paddled. It was a bit on the weaker side, but there were a few to be had. I found moments of brilliance in what otherwise could have been a forgettable session. I guess nothing is forgettable when you keep a journal of it like I do here. Don’t let the picture for fool you. That kid in the barrel is like 11 years old and three feet tall.
5-21-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
I woke in the morning to stiff SW winds thwarting that possible NW wind swell low tide point session I was hoping to score. Instead I decided to score some extra time under the covers a luxury I rarely am graced with. My plan was to just wait for high tide in the avro at Emma or one of those Sea Cliff waves that seem to be clean 300 days of the year. I ran a few errands that I have been putting off for the past two months cause there has been so much surf and squeezed in a hair cut, which I was also long overdue for. I cruised home, picked up my girl and took her to lunch at Metropolis this soup/sandwich/bakery place in the Funk Zone since I needed to stop by J7 and get my new shred sled. The food was good by way over priced for the skimpy portions. If I’m going to pay 9 bucks for a Ruben then it better be so fucking big I can’t even fit it in my mouth. Plus no pickle? WTF! Never going there again. That sandwich was worth about $5. We rolled over to Jason’s shop. It looks great with the new expansion into the SUP shop. I am stoked for his recent success. Plus I got my board in a record time, just under three weeks. It looks like a good one, a little more beef in the rails then my last one, but I felt that one was a little on the thin side anyways. We will see how it goes. They put this new FCS fin system in it that needs no screws, of course it also meant my old fins would not work with my old fins with out an adapter. I was not even thinking of buying fins though I had not had a new pair in almost eight years. I figured why not? I hope the thing is not a lemon. I felt old not even knowing the new system existed. my lady and I cruised to Emma Wood which was average at best. There were a few good ones though it was a bit fat, slow and inconsistent. I managed to grab a few cherry ones except I was very tired out there for whatever reason putting a damper on the surf. Then towards the end things picked up a bit with the tide change. Unfortunately I was too exhausted to take advantage of it.
5-20-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Summerland
Time in Water: 1 hr 20 mins
Waves Surfed: 27
I feel like mid to late may is always Summerland time. Its when the local channel is the at its most windy and thus leaving few places to surf. Summerland due to it’s steep semi-south facing beach is side-shore offshore in the hard NW and WNW winds. For whatever reason it picks up the meager, weak short period wind swell and turns it into wind swell New Jersey. Springtime always reminds me of home around here. I checked Rincon and it was very clean but the tide was way too high and small. Trevor said he was going to paddle Summerland and I met him. There were a handful of Surf Happens (“crowd happens”) groms on it and some crazy chick on a blow up raft, who was doing surprisingly well considering the conditions and current. It was a drift and surf game. Unfortunately there was bit too much west in the wind making it way messier then I would have liked. With only having the afternoons available to surf lately I am becoming reacquainted with the slop. I actually found a few good ones on my first two drifts then the tide began to drop and the wind changed even more west or something and it steadily went to shit. By my last drift I was groveling really hard. Besides the massive oil slicks Summerland is notorious for I would say it was better then not surfing.
5-19-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Ventura Campgrounds
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 23
“We should have just surfed Emma Wood” was what Trevor and I were both thinking after a terrible surf at Campgrounds. Campgrounds is just a terrible wave. Everything that makes a wave suck goes down at this seemingly decent looking spot. Its sectiony, dumpy, closed out, mush, hard to line up, exposed to all sorts of wind, there are rocks and it usually has a shitty current. I surf the place a few times a year and every time I always ask myself why I paddled. We car surfed for like a solid hour, wanted to go to Malibu, but Trevor left his car in the Rincon top lot and they lock the gates at dark and there was no way we would have made it back in time. I bet Mugu was good, but I don’t have a pass anymore. We thought we saw some good lefts from the 101 off ramp. There actually were a few sick corners with a nice launch ramp, but over all it was windy and gay. It reminded me of what would be called fun Florida, marginal New Jersey and epic Great Lakes. That being the case I surfed the slop pretty damned well. Still was nice to get wet and get a few.
5-18-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hr
Waves Surfed: 21
I did a bit of car surfing to find that my original checked spot of Emma Wood was the best of the worst. I saw a few kill-able bowls on the NW peak with a handful of guys out and it was glassy. Upon paddling it was way weaker then I had hoped. As the tide came up things got worse. By the time I quit I was groveling hard core. I heard the afternoon was like “Back Door”. I was up in the Valley wine tasting with my lady for her Birthday. Better then not surfing and I scored some sick ass wines as well.
5-17-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
Today was hectic as all hell. I had work bright and early as usual. I had my usual crowd of students with an extra 95 for a special event. Both went down with out a hitch. After work I had to give a surf lesson to this two random dudes from Norway as a favor to Lindsay. It was worth about $60 so why the fuck not. They were pretty cool and ended up rolling to Emma with me cause they wanted to see “real California Surfing like on TV” and “Waves with funnels”. I was like oh do you mean the barrel? Sure enough Emma was pretty solid with the incoming tide and new NW swell filling in. There were barrels to be had. I must say it was a pretty fun session and a nice end to a nice day. Too bad when I got home my girl flipped a shit because she was drunk and basically had one of her crazy fits. Yet I still didn’t break up with her even though I said the last time that it was going to be the last time. God I sound like one of those battered women. Why do I believe things are ever going to get any better. Fuck it, I still got barreled today.
5-16-14 PM Session: 1-2 ft, The Stair Case
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 50
I woke this morning feeling like absolute shit. Wait it was because it was 5 am, it was dark outside and I had to go to work. That might make anyone feel bad. Over it I called in sick despite having no sick or vacation time left and not being able to accumulate any because Sodexo is the cheapest shittiest company to ever work for. I slept in till like 9am, which when you wake up at the god awful crack of dawn four days a week is amazing and made some breakfast for my girl and I. After that I had a relaxing mid day kicking it. Finally round four I headed for a surf. The wind was light so I was hoping to get more wedge action at South Jetty or lefts at New Jetty. It sucked and I got nadda. Parking was bull shit everywhere and I drove between Emma, Solimar and Stair Case so many times that finally over it I just paddled Stair Case. It was a classic GI Joe session. The waves were perfect shape, perfect form, perfect everything except that they needed to be about six feet bigger to be epic. It was another hot ass day out so I surfed a while just to stay cool. Lets face it, no one surfs the shit better then me.
5-15-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, South Jetty
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 19
My initial plan was to go to Jalama this morning. Thanks to a fire right smack in the middle of the route 1 half way between Lompoc and Jalama I decided to bag that idea. The fire was in containment status, but I don’t like to fuck with those things. All it takes is one gust of wind and a brush fire especially in a season as dry as this one can get out of control. Plus the smell and thickness of the air and ash makes for less then stoked surfing conditions. I was hoping to get a good session in at Santa Clara River Mouth, but when I got there the wind was already adding annoying texture and the steadily rising 4.5 ft high at 11 am was already bogging it down. There must have been an easy 20 guys on it and I saw no one get a worth while ride. At this point I was faced with the debate on whether to go to Malibu or not. Conditions were perfect and the cam at Surfrider looked decent enough. I knew I could definitely find something there. There was also that same wedge coming in over at South Jetty that I found a few on yesterday afternoon. I was not really in the mood to deal with LA surfers or the drive involved. Fuck the ‘Bu. I paddled knowing the window was going to be short and it was. I found a couple of sick ramps out there and stuck a few huge bs airs. Better then not surfing.
5-14-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, South Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
After my Rincon surf I was left feeling a bit disparaged to say the least and it was pushing 90 out making it severely hot. I called Ryan to see if the wind was still off shore in Ventura and it was. On that note I decided to drive to the Harbor and see what was happening with the incoming south swell and dropping tide. River Mouth had a wave but it was very inconsistent, shifty, hard to line up and small. Throw in 20 knot off shore wind and it made for a very weak, frustrating looking session. New Jetty looked weak as fuck too. I was going to give up on the second surf when I saw a handful of guys out at the Wedge at South Jetty. Although I don’t really like that wave so much because it is very hard to surf backside with the wind it looked worth a paddle. I did drive after all. I suited up and paddled. Turns out though not epic it was pretty fun. It may have been the first time I have ever competently surfed that wave.
5-14-14 AM Session: 1-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 29
See blog “When will the fighting End?”
5-13-14 PM Session: 1-2+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 22
What a crazy day today was and also one I had not expected to get any water time at all in. I had work early as usual and what I though was to be a piece of cake day ended up being a shit storm when 80 extra people showed up all at once and in the first five minutes of opening lunch. As a result I was completely cleaned out of the majority of my prep and my first batch cook. Fucked I was playing extreme catch up the rest of the meal time. Then the clean up was out of hand since myself, the executive chef, the food and beverage director and the property manager all had to scramble to salvage the rest of the meal. Thanks Westmont for having super communication skills by not giving us any advance warning. I also had a few words with my head server because in the middle of all this chaos she had the nerve to ask me to make a special request on a mother fucking buffet! After Lunch I picked up Jimmy Jangles and we headed up to Goleta to help our Friend and former co-worker Anton load up a U-hual truck for his move to Arizona. He was a really good cook and I liked the guy. Its a bummer to see him go. Santa Barbara is as transient as a truck stop after all and if one is to take permanent residence here then he must get used the fact that the majority of the people he becomes acquainted with will at some time or another be shoving off. I can’t even count all the good friends I have good bye to on my fingers and my toes. Oh well. The move actually went rather easy as far as moves go. The best part about this one was that all we had to do was unload. Some other poor fools over in Arizona in 110F heat will have to do that task. We finished up just before 7pm. Trevor hit me up that he was groveling Indicator if I wanted to join him. Since I had to drop Jimmy Jangles off anyway in Carpenteria I gave it a look. It was super tiny but there were a few rolling in. I figured why not wash off the grime from the day with a surf. Although small I found a few fun ones. The water was really clear blue and the sunset spectacular. Not to mention the pod of dolphins and grey whales that decided to swim by.
5-12-14 PM Session: 2-3 ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
On shore winds in the afternoon. Such is the fate I knew I would ultimately be regulated to with my morning work schedule. Trevor said Indicator had a wave this morning so I began there. Every now and then there was an alright south set. Overall there was still too much NW swell coming in to make the left worth while. Throw in a strong head wind from the onshores and I was over it. I cruised south on a Hail Mary hoping something would pan out. Considering the low tide and amount of NW coming in I checked Pitas where there was definitely an alright wave coming through with only about three guys on it and more waves then they were catching. The wind was somehow blowing side shore into the right making it not too chunked up like it usually gets out there on a NW wind. There were three guys checking it when I was and two changing in the lot. If everyone were to paddle it would be way too crowded. I hung back and waited to see what was going to happen. The other guys who checked it bailed and even adding two more guys I still saw a few I could get my hands on without feeling pressed for waves. I paddled and with in the first twenty minutes two of the original crew bailed leaving three of us out the back with a nice strong incoming tide push. I ended getting a ton of fun ones. Its always stoke when a day you think you are just going for a grovel turns into a killer little surf.
5-11-14 AM Session: 3-5+ ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
“Its only crowded out because people think Emma is a great wave, but in all reality the only person who makes it look awesome is Dane”. A great quote from a guy I surf pretty much exclusively with at Emma Wood. Its funny how that works. There are some people you only see when you surf certain waves. Me I am kind of all over the place. One of the things I love most about living in the 805 is the availability of so many contrasting breaks in something like eighty miles of coast line. Out of that a handful are world class or near world class waves. That being said before you pack your bags and move here thus further crowding the line ups let me say that 90% of the time I find myself surfing blown out crap at the same four waves. There was still plenty of wind swell about although not nearly as big as last night. All the Santa Barbara exposures were tiny and weak looking. I headed to Emma which in its own right was going off. I mean about as good as Emma wood gets! The crowd was a bit busy, but there were plenty of waves and the majority of the crowd I didn’t recognize and as far as I am concerned visitors and weekend warriors can take a back seat to the local devotes. I got out there and my first two were average and I was not really feeling the vibe of the crowd. Then this right hand double up came rolling in right to where I was sitting on the toll booth peak. It swung just wide of the guys deeper then me, hit the sand bar and started to jack up. I thought I was a little deep, but I thought I had 50/50 shot of making it. I paddled my as off and as it was about to double up gabbed my rail and slid vertically down the face into the pit. At this point I was so deep I was riding the foam ball and couldn’t see out of it. I held on knowing the wave was just bending on the inside bar and the next section was doubling over me. Sure enough I came flying out in front of the life guard tower. The whole line up was screaming and people on the beach had their hands up stoked. I was fucking stoked. That may have been the biggest best barrel I have gotten this year. Whoot! Of course it was only my third wave. I hate when that happens cause now my session can only go down from there. I had a bunch more fun ones, yet the session was for sure over shadowed by the amazing backside tube earlier. People were congratulating me for over an hour after as they were paddling out. It was nuts. After the session Trevor and I went up to Westmont for a celebratory lunch.
5-10-14 PM Session: 1-3+ ft, Sharks Cove
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
I may have jumped the gun on the Sharks session this evening. I was cruising out of work and saw lots of NW wind swell blowing. My look back of death confirmed that there were waves coming in. I pulled off at Summerland, which was also breaking. I decided Sharks was worth another pass. I really couldn’t gauge the size, but it was consistent and waves were wrapping the point. The decision was made to go for it. My lady decided to come along with me and we made the hike down to the point. Immediately I could tell it was smaller then I had hoped, though there was the occasional really decent set. Rather then walk back out and find something else I gave it a paddle. Even though it was small I was glad I went for it. Sharks is such a good wave that even at like waist to stomach its still a ball.
5-9-14 AM Session: 3-5 + ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
I must have a leprechaun up my ass at the moment or maybe the surf gods are finally shinning on me. When I got stuck making the switch to mornings I was really bummed that I was going to miss out on some solid surf. So far if it was not for this schedule I would have missed out on some solid surf. One thing I know for sure I will miss scoring fun Santa Clara mornings. With any luck I will be off this schedule and on unemployment at the end of this month. I got out of a very under stimulating day around two. All the buoys and reports looked like shit so I decided to take my time getting out of Westmont and enjoyed an extended repast with Jimmy Jangles and Zach. I debated just bailing on the whole surfing endeavor altogether in favor of going home and taking a well deserved nap. I have been feeling a little under the weather I think because of all the dirty water I was surfing in during Wednesday’s Tanks session. Anyhow I decided to cruise for a grovel. A Lisanti 20 is always better then no surfing at all. Everything looked rather small on the way south and the wind was also south. I can’t ever remember a season with this mouth south wind blowing up the coast. I ended up at Emma, which although clean was really small. The two guys that were out were hardly selling it to me. I cruised to the Harbor being the wind was light where I just missed being in yet another gnarly accident by a matter of seconds. That is three in the last four weeks. I wonder what it all could mean. The waves were about as pathetic as Emma if not worse. I sat on the buff for twenty minutes before heading back to Emma. When I pulled up it looked really fun. My boy Robbie was out along with a few others getting alright albeit weak wind swell. I got out there and I was very tired and the gutless bowls coming through were not helping my cause. It seemed every set the surf got bigger and better. With in a half hour it was solid chest to head. By the hour head high with plus sets. The swell even had some power behind it. I ended up getting two really solid bs barrels I came out of and a handful of stand up fs tubes that I didn’t make, but had a solid view. Besides having to fight though utter exhaustion the entire session I would have to say it was another great surf. Oh and I when I got out of the water I had a text message from Jason letting me know my new board is in.
5-8-14 AM Session: 2-3 ft, Pitas
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 37
I didn’t really know what to expect this morning. The buoys all looked a bit on the tiny side and the wind was already on it when I woke up. Being it was the first day off I have had in a while I wanted to sleep a little. I hit up my usual cohorts and I guess everyone was on the same page as me since no one had a report. I headed south. Rincon a weak little wave that did not interest me. As I was driving past Little Rincon I noticed a solid set. Being that now one has to drive all the way back to Rincon to get back to Little ‘Con I figured I would see if Pitas had a wave first being that both usually break on the same swell exposure with the dropping tide it was a good option. Sure enough there was a wave there with one guy on it and two others paddling. It was very surf-able. I wanted to paddle, but I watched it for a little to make sure there were enough waves for us to share since it was kind of meager out there. I saw a few go by not ridden and there were other sections break as well. I jumped in and began getting some really rights and lefts. On just the right wind swell and in the late season Pitas will have a fun little wedgey left going back towards the top of the point. I have done some of the best airs of my life on that left and a few years back even stuck a big super man there. Today it was more like minor punts and hits, but still fun. The crowd was mellow and conditions nice making it a splendid time. Then as the tide dropped to dead low it very lully and weak thus I was over it. Still a fine morning of surfing. I rode my back up thicker 5’10 and I am glad I did not decided to add any volume to my new stick I have coming.
5-7-14 PM Session: 2-4+ ft, Tanks
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 70
I know I was gripping about working the day shift a few days ago, but if it wasn’t for that switch the epic session that ensued would have never happened. We had this bullshit faculty/staff appreciation brunch we cater every year at Westmont. Its a load of academia bullshit and usually a head ache for me. This year it seemed to go down the least hectic I have experienced. After work I decided to cruise for a surf despite hearing nothing but negativity from everyone of my sources. I wanted to surf as per my new surf like a grom mantra I have been on the past few months. I must say that I feel way healthier and happier for it. Who would have thought less time in the Wild Cat and more time in the ocean would equal a better Chris Lisanti?…Everyone! The wind had a fucked up south twang in it and although not hard at all was enough to destroy every point break from Santa Barbara to Ventura. I checked Emma and although alright it was very disorganized and appeared to be a lot of work for what was coming in. I had noticed a wave at Tanks when I was driving by and decided to go there. There are two spots right smack in the middle of Sea Cliffs that when they are on are ON! That is the Stair Case on south swells and Tanks on NW wind swells. Both or sort of located in the wake of Pitas and Solimar with a healthy kelp bed out side meaning it is usually always glassy there. It used to be that no one ever surfed those waves, but just like every place else this year the crowds have seemed to be amassing in even the most obscure of places. Its probaly because of assholes like me writing about them. I had look and although a bit on the small and wind swelly side it looked fun enough. It reminded me of SE wind swell days at Brielle Road as a kid growing up in New Jersey. For nostalgia purposes I paddled. On my first wave I got worked so hard trying to pull into what I thought was going to be a waist high drainer. As the wave hit the sand bar it jacked to head high and took me for a beating. When I came up I saw the next one spit! Apparently I underestimated how sick it really was out there. Steadily what I thought was going to be a 20 wave force became an epic surf. Out of seventy waves 55 of them were draining barrels and half of those spit. The waves were seriously throwing wider then they were big. Although the lines looked walled the current from the wind swell was so strong it forced the waves to almost break parallel to the sand bar. Some of the tubes I came out of were insane. Keggers for sure! I had the entire place to myself for nearly two hours when I was happily joined by a body surfer. Finally towards the end of my session about five guys paddled. By then I was exhausted. While I was in the water I must have watched a dozen guys pull up and check it, watch me get shacked off my ass and then leave. I had a stand up no grab backside barrel on my last wave and decided to quit on a note. The only downside is that I pretty much destroyed my board on a few huge fs air reverse attempts that went bad. Good thing Jason has a new one in the works for and I have plenty of battered spares. Just in case you were wondering the dude in the below conditions photo made that tube. Yeah it was THAT GOOD!!!!!!
5-6-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 15
The sheep were grazing out there today mate. I got out of work and pulled up to a very windy and very empty Rincon parking lot. I ran into my boy David in the lot as he was getting out and he was down on it. He said it was better then not surfing though. I didn’t really care, after another long stupid day at work I just wanted to get in the water. Besides I am from the East Coast and therefore have no problem with choppy or even VAS conditions if I am keen. I gave it a check and for sure it was all over the place. Through the Cove the lines were still clean although a bit fat looking with the incoming tide. Up top was bigger, more powerful, but very messy. I saw enough to make it worth my while. I hit Trevor up and he met me in the lot. People always ask me if I ever get Rincon all to myself. I always reply “lots of times, it just isn’t like what you might see in a magazine”. I mean shit I think I have had about six sessions there in the last month or so where I could count the other people out with me on one hand and another dozen where I could do it with two. Late season, strange Rincon will always deliver a few moments of solitude at what most of the time is one of California’s most crowded waves. The current was pretty bad, even by my standards. Believe me I have paddled my share of terrible drifts in my day. The plan was to start up a River Mouth and hope to make it to the Cove in time for a set, catch the best waves possible till I had drifted to the freeway. It was a good plan. The biggest mistake you can make in a near impossible drift is to fight it and burn out your arms. Trevor made two drifts, I made four. Its funny I surf some of the shittiest little waves with him at Emma Wood and other locations and he is all over it. Throw in a little wind and then he is not down. It must be a Californian thing. Back on the East Coast if you don’t surf in the wind then you will cut out 60% of your surf time. I found a couple of really fun ones. On my last drift I found myself moving at a pace down the point faster then the waves were coming in, got two, one at River Mouth and one at Cove, then called it a day. I had fun, but I love the chop. Must be a nostalgia thing.
5-5-14 PM Session: 3-4+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 3 hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
What a shitty day work turned out to be. I just don’t know the pace of the Breakfast/Lunch shift well enough yet to do my job as effectively as I can. Shit I have not worked this shift since I started there almost 5 years ago. Then my boss tells me to expect around 160 people for lunch and I end up doing a little under 300. It was a fucking shit show and I hate when things don’t go smoothly. I will say this if there were really only 160 I think I would have been fine. After work I cruised to Rincon since I had a few messages that it was the place to be. I got there and sure enough it was on although I think I missed my window a little bit cause it was really fun when I first paddled and slowly deteriorated as the session wore on. Alex “No Friends” was out with Pat, apparently he is in LA for a wedding and drove up for the day. Guess he got lucky. As for me I had a few alright ones up top at lower Indy and a few gems in the River Mouth, but it was still a little bit on the softer side then I like it to be. Then the wind began to slowly creep up out of the south as the tide began to fill in more as well. The combination of the two led to what was semi-fun Rincon turning into absolute trash. I ended up literally floating in through the cove, groveling my way on terrible broken up lines to the highway. At least I got a few.
5-4-14 PM Session: 2-3+ ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 26
Last night I hosted a little end of the year thank you party for any of my co-workers who wanted to come out to the Wild Cat and jump on the train to fancytown. As the conductor I was the first one there. I will say this it was a rather fun night out. Everyone but Tim-o showed up, his fucking loss. As a result I slept in being that I was off and for once in a long time I got to actually have a mellow morning hangover rather then having to suffer through a miserable work day all torn up. My girl wanted to come along with me and by 3pm had plenty of reports that Rincon or Little Rincon were where it was at. We cruised and sure enough there was plenty of wind swell coming in. On Trevor’s recommendation I checked Little ‘Con first, but it looked fat and crowded for what was coming in. Back to Rincon it was. Although high there were a solid amount of chest to head high waves coming in up at the River Mouth area. The Cove looked alright too, but had just a few too many long boarders then was worth dealing with. The line up was very shifted and the waves way weaker then they had looked. I had a few decent ones, but overall there was lots of frustration picking off bad ones or just constantly being out of position. I dinged my board landing an air on a left into a rock. Oh well. It was a remarkable beach day and who can ever beat that?
5-3-14 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 23
I had to work the early shift this morning and it looks like for a bit of the summer. I don’t know why they had me come in since the place was over staffed anyway. Whatever. I got off and cruised for a surf or grovel. The wind was sort of on it and I didn’t want to potentially waste the gas on blown out Ventura. I had a look at everything from Rincon to Emma Wood before finally settling on Rincon. It was small but palatable. I surfed the River Mouth where I found some weak ass lefts and rights.
5-2-14 PM Session: 1-3 ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 1 hr
Waves Surfed: 24
Work was about as slow and useless as ever today. There was little to do for catering and 3 cooks to feed less then 200 students and dinner was from 4pm-6pm. By 6:30 I had finished all the work that needed to be done and over it decided they could keep the $23 bucks if I were to stay till 8pm and bailed. The buoys had some south I figured I could get some at either Backside Rincon or Emma Wood. Although meager, Indy left did have a few waist plus peaks on offer with just one other guy out and he was focused on the right. It was a splendid night. The weather still very warm, water glassy and the setting sun lit everything up in that golden way only a California evening knows. Stoked to wash off the grim of the day I gave it a go. As I thought it was nothing to write home about but just a nice night to be in the water. There were some dolphins and a seal. I found a few keepers. One thing I must comment on is all the rocks one has to surf around when Indy Left is small and the tide low. It was a fucking grave yard out there.
5-2-14 AM Session: 2-3+ ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
After yesterday I knew it had the potential for another fun morning at the River Mouth. I checked the buoys and they looked a bit on the dismal side. I still had faith that what ever south energy was left out there River Mouth would funnel in. I left early since I had work at 11:30. I pulled up and the wind was very light. The surf looked a little bit on the small side, but perfect. Once again everyone was focused on the upper Reeds section, which still looked soft. I saw plenty of waves breaking where I was yesterday with about three guys out. I ran back down there and it was still pretty decent with solid chest high waves and the occasional head high screamer. There were still some really good tubes to be had and some rip-able sections. I nailed a huge ally-oop I was pumped on. It was another great little session courtesy of the River Mouth.
5-1-14 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Santa Cara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1 hr 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 33
South swell lines, plus good sand, and Santa Anna winds equals a super session. In this mornings case it was a mother fucking barrel fest. I must say I arose later then I should thanks in part to having a bit too much to drink (as per usual) at my dinner party where I served a portabello mushroom stuffed with a tomato, kale, red onion, mushroom, garlic Parmesan cheese mixed acini pepe, Over fresh kale and served with rare thinly sliced rump steak. I did a berry cobbler for dessert. On top of that I was still rather sore from the Point Sal retard mission which you can read about here. It is quite the tale of a surfing mishap. Sore as I was I dragged myself out of bed to a few messages from Ryan going nuts on the River Mouth. On a good south swell you can do no better then the dredgey left barrels that come in up and down this mile long stretch of beach. I got down there and it was rather busy. Ryan was surfing one of the Knoll peaks and everyone else was surfing upper Reeds to lower Knoll. As I looked south of the Reeds I saw tons of solid looking ones with no one out. I ran into my friend Matt leaving and he told me he got his best waves way south. Stoked I ran down there and found a nice little A-Frame peak all to myself and the barrel mania ensued. It was just perfect left tube after perfect left tube. My deepest was an against the grain right barrel. What a great little surf.
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